Lamborghini Countach LP400 - WIP
I started with the bodywork, there was a lot of cleaning, sanding and fitting to do..
I postponed the body painting to a warmer time of the year since my basement rooms are not heated and paint and cold do not go hand in hand. I did not want to paint a 1:12 car model inside, even with a paint booth it's pointless, too much overspray
Ejection marks, tons of them!
some gaps had to be filled...
Literally 80%-90% of all time spent until now went into cleaning the parts, bringing them in shape and getting rid of those nasty, often really nasty seamlines. All the framework in the engine area and the countless pipes and rods were a special treat!
The clear parts had this orange peel structure as seen on the upper part. I sanded every and each of them smooth and polished them with various compounds, the result is seen on the lower part. This alone robbed a week's worth of work!
There was just a half of this kit part (the black one). Something on the engine, seems to be the starter. I decided to build it from scratch. You wouldn't even be able to see it when the model is finished but...
...but i did not want to feel the model being "incomplete", besides it is a nice way to improve your skills! (if any present yet)
There was an obscene amount of Chrome parts, courtesy of a 70ies kit i guess, i stripped most of it, some i just sanded to repaint it like these brake discs, but then realized that only by sanding the Chrome they obtained this "used steel" look.
Superglue as glue and filler - nothing better imo. Fast drying and no sinking in when it's dry, you don't see even a hint of the seam after painting, even without applying any filler!
After a long marathon of cleaning and sanding finally the fun part begins!
Engine base painted, no wash applied yet. Some wiring on the go
Wiring (a part of it) ready, details painted, a light wash applied
Parts, parts, parts! It's important to sort them otherwise you'll lose track..
Most of them are base painted, the finishing touches come during the assembly
The kit provides working head- and taillights, there are tiny lightbulbs. I think i'll go fot it!
Primer applied to these parts, there were seam- and gluelines at later extremely visible places, they had to be filled and sanded. I think the super glue did its job, but just in case..
Painting day!
Tamiya acrylics and airbrush were used, ten minutes later already dry to touch
Chassis and some cockpit and engine parts painted in various greys and blacks. Not overly exciting but necessary!
Engine assembled further, ready to be fitted into the chassis
Fits like a charm!
These "boxes" in front of the rear wheels (well, where the rear wheel belong) are the fuel tanks. Below them there are these little tubes coming out, was part of the kit. Still have no idea what thea are supposed to be. Fuel tank breather/overflow hose?
The rims have been stripped of their shiny chrome, i was surprised how easily it went with oven cleaner spray! They will be painted in a flat Aluminium colour like it is supposed to be.
Rims painted in Aluminium. I use Model Master Metalizer, great range of Metallic paints.
Worked some more on the engine, installed radiators, cooling system, oil filter, carburetor levers
A first test fit to see how the engine is located in the body. Interesting position of the radiators and how far they are sticking out! They will be covered by huge air inrakes
Close up, engine further detailed and detail painted.
The LP400 and other Countach models have these big black flexible airhoses left and right leading from the air filters to the air intakes above the radiators, they are COMPLETELY ignored in the kit.Since they are clearly visible in the engine compartment
..i decided to manufacture them myself. A drinking straw with a long flexible part in the correct diameter is the material of choice, wasn't quite easy to find!
Since i did not find one already in black i had to paint this one
The tires have the unevitable moulding seam down the middle, i sanded it down by putting them on a drill chuck and going over some 180 grid paper
Very fast, effective and easy as cake!
The result looks very convincing
Let's continue with the rear suspension. To spice things up i modified the struts which are a thin plastic rod it the kit with a metal hull
I used such cable end sleeves which come in various diameters and are great help for scratch building!
It gives a better look and a firmer and tighter fit
The complete rear suspension,it was quite challenging to fit everything into each other..
...felt like juggling while riding an unicycle!
All part are movable, the suspension is working
Let's continue with the air intake hoses..here left part fitted to the air filter
Looks about right
I also added some etched hose clamps
Since i did not want the hoses end into nothingness and further research suggested that they ended in some air ducts sitting behind the radiators...
...i'd say back to the drawing board!
Some sawing, glueing and sanding later this is what i came up with..
After having fitting problems and some research later there was more sawing, glueing and sanding...
..Air ducts ver. 2, Left already in shape, right untreated
The result of quite a few hours of work...
They may be not 100% correct in shape since several sources provided contradicting information about them, but what counts is the idea and the implementation!
The main thing is improving your skills and gaining new experience!
The fit is pretty good
Here you can see the air duct sitting behind the radiator on the original
Some clearly visible areas and parts are criminally ignored in the kit! Like The hose connection on what i found out is the A/C compressor, Here the original
here on the model with nothing but gaping holes
I found some great exploded view drawings online, a great orientation! What i am talking about is bottom right
Again some sawing, cutting, drilling, sanding, fitting, glueing and cursing later...
...this is the result
Material of choice: brass rod, hexagonal plastic rod, cable end sleeves, soldering wire and heat shrink tubing
much better!
meanwhile added some wiring and some more details
ducts painted
The dashboard is upholstered with some kind of suede leather on the original. It has a blotchy color and a very fine rough structure to it. First i thought of using viscose flocking here but on this scale it would have been overkill.
I decided to solve the issue with paint, first applied a "preshading"
additionally i made a good amount of speckles with a sponge
last step was to paint a thin semi transparent layer of the actual "leather" color and by keeping the paint mist dry i achieved a coarse surface to mimic the furry texture of the original (man that sounds stupid 😄)
The kit did not include any dashboard decals or any decals at all for that matter. There dials of the gauges were moulded in plastic and did not look very good. I milled them off and replaced them with a piece of round plastic
time for self made decals! The vastness of the world wide web provides some passable templates
A little (amateurish) digital trickery with simple graphical software and playing around with the settings of the printer later this what i got (several mishaps included) The logo for the battery is ready too
added some more details to the engine
the engine room is 99% finished! Some small touch ups will surely follow when the model is on the finishing line and the body attached
brake discs applied
The LP400 interior is clad with several materials. The seats, the door trim panels and other parts of the interior are upholstered with leather. The coloration varies between beige, light brown, flesh coloured to almost orange.
I chose a "neutral" leather colour and held it a bit brighter so it will be better visible when enclosed by the body. At first i applied a pink/fleshy coloured basecoat. The material of choice were Tamiya acrylics.
Followed by a heavy "exhaust" enamel wash from AK interactive
After the wash dried i treated the whole surface with various polishing cloths with grid ranging from 6000 to 12000.
The whole process provided two things: The inner and deeper parts and wrinkles of the leather where the cloths did not reach into remained dark, the outer surfaces where you, pardon my english, rub the seats with your butt became worn and shiny
All in all this is how i tried to achieve that "leathery" gloss of the seats, came out not too bad, what do you think?
Same procedure for the cockpit tub
A little update on the lambo. The dashboard wth the self made dial decals is finished! A little dedail painting added, yes the buttons to the lower left do really look this colourful!
The self printed dials are not as crisp and sharp as i wanted them to be but a household ink printer has its limits. Quite happy with the result though it's not perfect!
Let's continue to upgrade this kit, i found another obvious detail which has been neglected in the kit. The levers for the hood and the trunk, they are located in a hatch on the driver's side center pillar
There was just flat surface on the kit body, so i decided to reproduce it. First step is making the hatch
Marking with tape and pencil
Pre-drilling to make it easier to cut the part out
Sanding in shape and cleaning, glueing in a "backplate"
The thickness of the material is perfectly fine to reproduce the depth of the hatch. The levers will be made from PE scraps, at least that is the plan!
Body painting time! All the parts which are going to get the yellow body color are sanded, cleaned and mounted on several holding "devices"
The countach has 3 hood/trunk doors. There is the hood in the front with the spare tyre beneath, then there is the engine hood in the back and an additional small trunk!
After doing some research and making plans on body paint i went with a painting system from a seemingly good ebay seller. I bought a spray can painting set from him which included white filler, white basecoat, yellow colour cote and 2K clearcote.
I started with white Fine Surface Primer by Tamiya, since the ebay filler turned out to be thin, watery semitransparent crap though I shook the can for 20 minutes probably.
It was a total disaster, luckily i started with the insides of the hoods first so the damage done was easily repaired. On the other hand the old trusty Tamiya stuff though never left me in the rain.
This is by a mile the best primer for body painting imho, when it is dry the surface is absolutely smooth and silky, the drying time is very fast and if you have runners you can sand them easily
so the change of plans is to dismiss the ebay filler and i won't use the white basecoat either, since the Tamiya primer is white already. I will apply the yellow colour basecoat directly on the Tamiya primer.
I painted in an old cellar room in my house which use to be a lavatory room. It isn't used today whatsoever and hardly anyone goes down there from the neightborhood
It has almost perfect conditions, it is absolutely dust free, has good ventilation, moderate climate and humidity. Just the light could be better.
The result is very pleasing, no speck of dust whatsoever, would be never achievable when i painted it inside in the paint booth
I will try the yellow basecoat first on a test surface though which i have coated in Tamiya primer too, to avoid bad surprises
The cockpit of the countach is a mixture of materials, colors and textures. Parts of it are clad in a "carpety" material, e.g. the floor, space behind the seats, foot space. This is where i want to use viscose flocking
First step is masking off the areas
and a wet semigloss coat of beige enamel paint
Followed by the immediate application of beige flocking material.
Note to self: Use a strainer next time to apply flocking in order to avoid clumping!
After a good day of drying, the masks are removed
The clumping is no that bad though when the excess material is removed but the result would be cleaner for sure
I am pleased with the result overall, the no so perfect floor area will be covered by seats and floor mats
I had a little mishap though, in my haste to remove the masks the part fell to the floor and an edge broke off...the plastic becomes pretty brittle after 40 years on the shelf i guess. Gotta repair that
There is a metal plate in the foot area next to the pedals which presumably protects the leather console from tear and wear
I thought it would be a nice touch to reproduce it with tin sheet!
To furthe spice up the interior the desicion was made to scratch some floor mats, i found a very nice guide online. First step is to cut out the base shape from 0,25mm polystyrol sheet
Then adding trim to the outside edge by superglueing thin isolated wire to it
So, let's continue with the broken corner repair. I glued the part on with super glue and added some on the back with some super glue filler as reinforcement. On the top of the crack i used the glue as "filler"
As the glue dried the surface was very carefully sanded in order not to damage the already painted parts and especially the flocking
Super glue really done its magic! I just applied a thin coat of Tamiya paint, no basecoat or filler whatsoever!
A little wash again and the part looks as if nothing has ever happened!
Back to the floor mats, first a basecoat of some leftover color
water diluted wood glue
+viscose flocking
floor mats!
Ok lads, the football world cup and vacations are finally over 😄 time to make something productive again!
The floor mats lay down nicely and organic in the foot area, the edges are somewhat curled up due to the wire edge trim, which gives them a nice authentic look!
let's move on to the front suspension. Added an end sleeve hull in the right diameter to the axles to provide a tighter fit.
The shocks received the trusty end sleeve treatment as well
The whole front suspension was a true clusterf*ck of parts, bringing them all together and making sure everything looks good and in the right place was a several day ordeal. The pictures don't do it justice
In the end the result matters!
Seat belts are again an extra addition, the kit provides just the holders and nothing more
I found a really nice and suitable material to depict seat belts in 1:12, this 5mm satin ribbon
It has a really nice texture to it and looks authentic
I used a PE set for the buckle and metal parts of the belts, as well as some diy parts from 0,2 mm tin sheet
I used pictures and technical drawings i found online as a guideline to make these
Very pleased with the result!
Attached them with a tiny nail, to keep the belt movable
fully attached
with seats. The belts are still a little stubborn and stiff, gonna have to make them laying down nicely!
The whole cockpit is in completion process
engraved the shift pattern on the gear knob, applied some white and sanded and polished it down, so the white paint remained just in the engraving
the front compartment shall receive some detailing as well, the battery has been upgraded with some custom decals. Furthermore i added some hoses, cables, and ducts, refering to pictures of the original.
First time on her own "feet"!
Finally painting time! The color is Giallo Fly, solvent based custom mixed automotive paint
I made some paint samples to choose the correct shade. 50% white added left to 100% saturated right. I went for 10% brightened, the second from the right. To match the scale and "simulate" somewhat sun faded paint.
Followed by a coat of 2k clear varnish
I made sure to make this first clear cote layer no too thick, just moderate. It is to prevent runners and because i am going to make another coat after drying and sanding.
I painted in an old boiler room in my cellar. It has perfect conditions, dust free, somewhat humid and it has ventilation.
After curing for a week the clear cote has sunken in and revealed the undercoat structure. Partly it is orange peel from being modest wuth the clear, partly the structure of the yellow basecoat paint
Fortunately little dust inclusions!
The whole painting process took about three hours. Two coats of yellow base paint, followed by two thin coats of 2K clear. Each single part was treated with special care.
The body was especially time consuming with all its edges, corners, surfaces. I had to make sure there was enough paint everywhere without overdoing the clear coat part
Very happy with the result!
Next step is wet sanding the clear coat with 2000 grit paper and applying a second coat
In my previous builds i noticed that after sanding and polishing the first layer of clear it tended to sink in afterwards, even after curing for 2-3 weeks. I hope to prevent that adding a second layer and polishing afterwards.
Started with the small parts, the pop-up headlights covers. You have to be very careful, especially at the edges! You easily get through the clear cote with the sanding paper here. even if it's very fine
Here you can see the smoothing process of the surface
2000 grit wet sanding paper and patience are your best friends
Sharp edges, the countach has many of them! Also important for the polishing process afterwards to have an extra coat of clear all around because again you come through very easily at the edges.
Before and after
After curing properly for two weeks, this is how the surface looked, quite some smoothing to be done
This is some tideous work, you have to be careful and gentle. If you rush it you might sand through at the edges. Working on a section at a time is the best option not to overdo it, here the front is already finished
Roof is still to go
Smooth and silky, this is what we want it to be before applying the second coat of clear
I use a pencil eraser as a sanding block, it is a good aid for getting the surface even, especially at the corners
Paint tends to accumulate at the edges of a surface due to surface tension. Using the eraser is a big help to smoothen these sections without sanding through the clear at the edge
The end result
The wole process of sanding the clear took several hours
"Upholstered" the door insides after the body color clear coat has dried
Added little details, like the door lock knobs and the silver latch. The rivets have also been painted silver
The crank was also a little modified, the handle was missing entirely
Second coat of 2K clear is applied! BTW i used a Harder & Steenbeck Evolution airbrush with a 0,4 nozzle and the nice big 50ml paint cup
This time i applied a bit more than the first one. Due to the cured and finely sanded undercoat the applied second coat laid down very smoothly and evenly
A speck of dust here and there but nothing earth shattering
Now it has to cure for at least two weeks, then rinse and repeat!
All right fellas, the clear coat has cured for three weeks and should be ripe and ready to be polished. Time to finish this baby!
This is what we got, a good solid coat of clear, a little uneven with some dust inclusions and orange peel here and there
Same treatment as before, 2000 grit wet sanding paper with a rubber eraser used as a sanding block. This time i also used a 4000 grit soft pad afterwards, also wet.
On this low exposed photo you see the difference, left side is wet sanded with 2000, right additionally treated with the 4000 pad. It gives a nice silky finish and makes the polishing less tideous and time consuming. The pads are called "Mirka Abralon"
Again the sanding had to be done extremely carefully, especially at the sharp edges
If you are not careful or too hasty this happens! I am glad it happened on a part and not on the body itself. This is why i started with the parts to get the right "feeling" for the sanding. It is just a little setback but has to be repainted
Here another comparison, this time one step further. Left sanded with 4000 soft pad, right already polished.
Speaking of polishing, i use a cheap Dremel-like rotary tool with a small cotton buffing wheel and solid polishing compound
I got these things from eBay, a 10 pack for 3-4 Euro shipped from China. Peanuts!
You have to be extremely careful with the rotating buffer, especially at the edges. Always keep in mind which way it rotates and work "down the edge". Here the right side already polished, left to go.
The result after a weekend's worth of work..
The polished surface is protected with Parafilm before further assembly and painting
Masking for the window trim
The other door already in repainting process. In this case i can use the upper edge as a "border" because it is quite sharp and has a convenient angle. You just have to make sure not to go too much with the yellow basecoat over it but stay locally
The roof lining received the same treatment as the dashboard
Test-fitting of the windscreen. Looking good!
Started painting the window trims and black outlinings and "accents"
Tamiya X-18 was used
During the search for some material for the door seals i stumbled upon an old friend: heat shrink tubing! It has almost the perfect texture and looks for the job.
It was tricky to cut the tubes open in a straight line or even trickier to cut it in two halves, but eventually it worked
Clear double sided tape which was cut into strips was used to fix the sealings
Using glue for this could have ended in a messy disaster, this is much cleaner and works like a charm!
Test fitting of body parts
Seals looking all right!
Getting there!
In order to prevent ugly glue leaks i tried the same double sided tape trick on the window frame. Here everything seemed fine at first...
..but over night the frame got loose from the window in several places. So i decided to pull it off and try again with more sticky tape...this is where the age of the kit caught up, the plastic is very brittle..
all in all the tape left a big mess..
and while cleaning the part and the window from the tape remains the window became dull
and the frame broke into more and more pieces..
i think i'll call it a day! :<
This opening in the roof required a little window, the corners were cut off later
better
Back lights holding firmly in place without glue
The pop up lights did not fit properly because of the accumulated paint. I had to sand the edges carefully to make them fit again. Here the left one is done, the right one standing way out (from the reader's perspective)
that looks better
The blinker/upper beam lights had to be modified. They sat way too low in the housing. I installed them good 5mm higher, but now the mounting holes are visible.
I solved the issue by cutting out a fitting shape from 0,25mm styrene with chrome tape on top
This also gets rid of the ugly ejection markings
I decided to make the model without lighting, but now there are these openings for the bulbs..
..which make the light look a bit....cross eyed. I hope i can solve the issue by cosing the hole with chrome tape. Don't fancy making new reflectors from scratch
Much better with foil behind
I managed to put the destroyed window frame puzzle together....Now i'm not taking any chances, next time it stays on. Even if i have to use super glue with the risk of getting foggy windows
The LP400 has this mesh on the inner sides of the engine hood
The kit provides a solid piece of plastic for that matter, here on the right. To the left is the replacement already cut from fine PE mesh
To get the right dimensions i just place a piece of tape on the designated area and mark the outlines with a pencil
I then use the outlines..
..to cut out the "backplate" of the mesh and the mesh itself, here already painted in Tamiya X-18
Attached mesh
With backplate
Kit part can go into the trash
A little touch up with paint
I found another possible solution to attach my window frames, "transfer glue". It is in essence glue spread on a anti-adhesive sheet which you can cut to your liking, e.g stripes and transfer on your part, the handling is similar to double sided tape
fingers crossed!
I already mentioned the hood and trunk opening handles. The hutch is already there, now it's time for the handls themselves
They were made from 0,25mm styrene
Painted with Alclad Chrome
For the "disegno bertone" logo i found online good photos of it in decent resolution
These were scaled down to required size and printed on white decal paper
Gradually attaching body parts
Rear trunk door
Test fitting body parts
One issue which is almost impossible to correct right now is, all the door, the hoods etc do not fit properly and it is not the sealings! I should have properly fit the body parts BEFORE painting and make sure not to put too much clear coat on the inside
Engine hood is warped a little, let's see if i can straighten that out
At least this view is ok!
This is how the clearance looks if the door just "rests" to make it "close" properly you need to push down a little. I might have an idea how to solve that...
if all else fails, this doesn't look too bad either😄
Just noticed on the photo the door lock pin broke off :/
The front spare tyre and the rear luggage compartments are held in place by dampers, i was eager to recreate them too..
The housing and the piston were not the problem, they are just a brass tube and a hypodermic needle. But i had to think something up to attach them, keep them movable but also not to be too fragile. Had to be something metallic with a loop and a rod
I was browsing ebay the other day and stumbled upon watchmaker stuff and then it just struck me: watch hands! I immediately ordered a bundle of about 100 pieces for a couple of €€
Pick a fitting one and a micro drop of super glue does the trick
I can think of a gazillion ways they can be utilized in modeling, a real gem!
The loop on the opposite site is made in a similar way..
The damper is held in place by a tiny turned bolt (Voyager Models) and a PE hex nut (Plus Model)
Damper piston attached on the inside of the trunk door
The opposite part is attached in a similar way
It works!
The inside of the front trunk received some reinforcement struts detail
Loop for the damper
Tamiya X-18
Attached with the already mentionet nut and bolt combo
The opposite part on the chassis. Could have taken care of the ejection marks too :/
All doors attached...
Awaiting final merging with the chassis
It's time! Oct. 30 2018, "official" unification of body and chassis!
In order to exclude any possibility of ugly glue stains or alike, to attach the windshield i use my new favourite, transfer glue
The hold is firm and secure without any headache about glue stains or fogging
The trunk on the real thing is clad with a carpet/floormat like material. In essence it is the same material used in the saloon
The kit does not provide a convincing solution for that matter...
I decided to try the proven floor mat trick to solve the issue but his time i used Aluminium foil as a base in order for the mats to be more flexible
Wire outline applied
A coat of wet semigloss enamel in a brownish tone and instantly applied flocking material later..
i ended up with a set of "mats" or cladding parts for the trunk
I allpied a second layer of flocking, this time with wood glue as a medium. When it dried i pulled the foil off and ended with nice flexible parts
Outline painted and clipped to fit better
Transfer glue was used here for application too.
Not as tidy as the original, but heck of a lot better!
A little adjustmen to do, but i do fancy the general outcome.....
Whereas the wheel housing at the back wheels was sufficient, in the front there was quite some room for improvement
You have unobstructed view at the headlights, the cockpit tub and the door mounting. You could just douse everything in black paint and it probably would look ok..
...but i wanted to try a different approach.
0,25mm styrene was cut into shape to fit into the designated area
Making sure the wheel fits too
final shape of the custom made wheel housings
Some black paint later..
No glue was needed here, they sit firmly and comfortably where they belong!
To attach the "glass" parts here transfer glue strips were used too
The body received all kinds of stains, fingerprints, scratches etc during the completion process and fitting of the parts. At this stage i went for a second round of polishing with a brand new buffing wheel
Wheels attached!
All "glass" parts were fixed with transfer glue
No stains, very clean and controlled applcation.
Same thing for the mirrors, perfect hold on the paint
Please take notes, the wiper is completely OOB! 😄
The emblems on the back were provided as reliefs molded onto the body. Here I went for self-printed decals on transparent medium to give the letters their black color
Painting the individual letters was out of the question, since they basically "drowned" in clear coat, i think this method provides a sufficient solution..
Finally, last part of the kit....
I made it a while ago, the kit provided just a chrome plated relief of the emblem. I sanded it down and applied a printed decal followed by several coats of clear varnish
Cutting to shape and applying transfer glue
It's done.
Comments
2 12 March 2018, 16:55
Spanjaardbeautiful engine already. nice scratch built parts. i am certainly in 🙂
15 March 2018, 06:41
Peter HardySome work in that Alex! I went through the photos three times, zoomed in on a lot of them too. Enjoying this very much.
16 March 2018, 22:00
Julian Herrero aka YuriTedious but good work , following.
This car is one of my favourites
17 March 2018, 06:35
Spanjaarddashboard looks simply perfect. can not be much closer to the original. excellent.
10 April 2018, 17:08
Alexander GrivonevHey Spanjaard, thanks! It's far from perfect but it worked out quite well...
10 April 2018, 18:18
Björn SvedbergFantastic! I'm really enjoying watching this build. Really nice progress pictures too. 👍
10 April 2018, 18:39
Gordon SørensenFantastic Countach, Alexander! The extra engine compartment that detail you added really looks great!
11 April 2018, 15:36
Alexander GrivonevThanks Gordon! Spanjaard, i really hope they will work out. You can't achieve the resolution and quality of purchasable decals with a homemade printer, but they came out better than i expected, let's see and hope!
12 April 2018, 19:26
Spanjaardthe more i look at what you have done so far, more i like it. what an excellent job.
12 April 2018, 19:37
Peter HardyAlex, one morning I will look at this Lambo over breakfast and stop shaking my head long enough to get the food in my mouth. I dream of doing a build this well thought out and executed, but, alas, I am just me. I am glad you are on this site showing me stuff that never even occurred to me. Morning lessons from Alex! Love them!!!
12 April 2018, 21:03
Brad FurmingerYour scratchbuilding skills are fascinating to watch unfold. The bendable drinking straw was ingenious. Looks like quite the interesting kit to build.
12 April 2018, 21:05
Mike ThomasAlright, Alex....that's enough. You're making me want to lock the hobby room and take up knitting. How's a guy supposed to keep up with you? 🙂
12 April 2018, 22:12
Alexander GrivonevHaha wow, thanks a lot mates😄 Honestly, it was supposed to be an OOB build because i knew from start there will be A LOT to improve on this kit and i wanted an easy and relaxed build. But as it started and progressed i realised there were parts of it where i said "I just can not leave it like that". You get ideas on the way, some are easily reproduced, some where you think it is impossible to achieve but then again "why not, let's try it!". And step by step you are progressing, learning something new and gaining experience. There is no sorcery there, i am not a magician nor an exceptionally good modeler, you just have to try!
cheers, Alex
13 April 2018, 05:06
Spanjaardyou are good, no doubt about it. but you are right, the "let's see how can i make this better" mentality, makes miracles 🙂
13 April 2018, 17:24
Peter HardySeriously doubt you would ever do an OOB build Alex. Just can't see it happening!
19 April 2018, 08:07
Alexander GrivonevСпасибо, Роман!
Haha Peter, seriously it's like a virus. I try to do smaller "relaxed" projects inbetween, where i tell myself "just follow the instructions and have fun" but even then you see something you just CAN NOT leave like that and your hands start to itch 😄
20 April 2018, 16:36
Peter HardyWe all suffer from THAT Alex! Spanjaard is a classic sufferer! I don't think I actually want kit manufacturers to make a perfect kit, I'm pretty sure they all enjoy what we do with their product.
20 April 2018, 21:47
Tim HeimerAlex I have found that I like the larger scale cars a lot more then the smaller because the mods for detailing. It looks like you do as well! Keep up the good work!
19 May 2018, 13:49
Gordon SørensenThe body work detail looks fantastic, Alexander! Its like a bodyshop in minature!
19 May 2018, 14:28
Alexander GrivonevAppreciated, guys!
Timothy, this is why i HATE building large scale cars😄 It just goes on and on forever and no matter how many details you add, you feel like you could have done a little more here and there. Joking of course, but that's the downside of large scale, it is VERY time consuming.
19 May 2018, 14:50
Spanjaardsimple solution... out of the box build. but you know you would not do that (and neither do I 😛 ). amazing result. that flocking is simply perfect. pity about the broken corner, but it will be easy fix for you
21 May 2018, 20:29
Brad FurmingerFantastic fix on that broken corner. Can't even tell there was ever a problem.
16 June 2018, 22:45
Spanjaardgreat job on that fix. and those floor mats are simply out of this world Alexander
16 June 2018, 23:08
Alexander GrivonevOh don't exaggerate Spanjaard 😄, it wasn't even my idea. I found a great tutorial online and followed it. Btw forgot to post the link:
italianhorses.net/Tu../Floormats/fmats.htm
16 June 2018, 23:16
Spanjaardthanks for sharing. and i say again, it looks truly amazing. better than the tutorial actually😉
16 June 2018, 23:20
Kerry COXDedication to the almost impossible. !
What an inspirational build. 🙂 👍
Make a modeller want to scream when we have to correct the factory screw up's. 🙁
I loved every step and image. 👍
Thanks for posting them. 🙂
8 August 2018, 16:34
GlennGreat work on this model Alexander, A vast improvement over the kit details in fact it looks real. If you photograph it in the right background it will be hard to tell. But for me i always thought the Countach looked like a home made kit car and not a expensive sports car like other classic cars it just screams of fiberglass! Not a classic with "curves" like the Ford GT-40 or the Lamborghini Miura
[img1]?fit=1162%2C614&ssl=1
[img2]
8 August 2018, 18:04
Alexander GrivonevMy pleasure, Kerry!
Glenn, you always hear divided opinions about the Countach, some hate this car some love it. For me it's part of my childhood, especially after endlessly watching the "Cannonball Run" movies i fell in love with it. I think it is beautiful in it's own way. But certainly not comparable to "classic" beauties, like my favourites, the Ferrari 250 GTO and also the GT40, probably the most beautiful car ever made imho, got the Trumpeter 1:12 kit laying around as well!
Cheers!
8 August 2018, 19:18
Kerry COXIn 1964, I was the proud owner of a 'COX' Ford GT40 slot car, the first ever .model. of the Le Mans winner, and I was the envy of all in that place. Still, the sexiest car on the race track, ever.
8 August 2018, 19:23
Jean Pierre CULIS-FERYIt's not my domain (i build planes) But it's a very impressive work!
8 August 2018, 19:42
Peter HardyFascinated by the flocking uses Alex, the floor mats just left me shaking my head wondering how much there is to learn.
Oh, and Kerry is very, ummm, experienced? Done a lot of miles, so to speak. 🙂
Get well soon Kezza!
8 August 2018, 20:58
Brad Furminger1964. I was -6.
But still love the Countach since my childhood. Sweet seatbelts you've crafted there.
8 August 2018, 22:28
Alexander GrivonevThanks for the kind comments, guys. It is really motivating! You won't believe it but I planned to build this thing OOB at first!! Just following the instructions, a good old relaxed build but some parts you just cannot leave how they are so i started to apply some small changes and improvements until it got out of control😄
Hold your horses Timothy, the hardest part of the build is yet to come, the paintjob! It will determine if this is going to be a "masterpiece" or not. The chassis is alsmost finished, so i can't hide myself from this ordeal any longer! 😄
9 August 2018, 16:26
Peter HardyI can believe it. You can't leave anything imperfect can you? Never mind, your OCD, our enjoyment!
9 August 2018, 21:17
Spanjaardwow good find with that satin stuff... the seatbelts look simply.... like the rest of this build, more real than real itself 🙂
9 August 2018, 21:25
Alexander GrivonevOh Peter, fortunately the OCD did not hit too hard yet, there are plenty of imperfections there, believe me!
10 August 2018, 10:38
Peter HardySkilled, creative, inventive and modest too! Your eye is keener than mine Alex!
10 August 2018, 10:58
Tim HeimerAlex we have faith in you! you can be so modest as Peter pointed out!
10 August 2018, 19:53
Maurizio PessinaGreat job Alex. This is what I like, a lot of changes and improvements even if many of them will not be visible when the assembling ends.
10 September 2018, 22:17
Bart Goesaertseem to have missed this beauty, but boy what a project... looking very good though. Those 1/12 cars are a bit larger then expected I must admit, recently bought a GT-40, hope it will end up half as nice as this one...
11 September 2018, 08:43
Alexander GrivonevThanky you both Maurizio and Bart!
"This is what I like, a lot of changes and improvements even if many of them will not be visible when the assembling ends." But you know they are there and it calms your soul and conscience😄
Bart, I have the Trumpy GT-40 too in my stash plus the superdetailing kit by KA models. Probably will have to go on a sabbatical before even thinking of starting it*sigh*
11 September 2018, 11:09
Bart GoesaertThat KA-models superdetail I have too... sometimes I'm just looking where the parts need to go, and building things in my head. Found some nice referencedrawings here: cushmancompetition.com/GT40.htm
11 September 2018, 11:27
Alexander GrivonevWow, that is some fantastic reference! Actually found something similar for my Countach
eurospares.co.uk/par..i/countach-lp400/all
You'll find there many other car models too
11 September 2018, 11:31
Bart Goesaertnice, thx, maybe we should do like Rui S., and make a topic about these or add them to a topic ... or at least save a copy of these in case these are removed from the site.
11 September 2018, 11:34
Maurizio Pessina"But you know they are there and it calms your soul and conscience " yes, this is what I mean...
11 September 2018, 20:25
Spanjaardthe only bad part of this build will be that it will be over eventually..... and i am enjoying following each step of it.... i do not know what category this wonder should fall into.... work of art, master piece, award winning, museum quality..... once for sure is not, is OOB!!! 😄 😄
and even if some details are not to ever be seen, well, you know they are. and thanks to SCM, we also do 🙂
12 September 2018, 23:38
Alexander GrivonevSpanjaard, now you are embarassing me😄 "not OOB" i agree with, the rest is definitely debatable😄
13 September 2018, 08:49
Peter HardyLet me be the adjudicator here. I'll just review the pictures first. Hmmm, masterpiece, hmmm, award winning, hmmm, museum quality? Sorry Alex, you are in for a debate!
13 September 2018, 11:24
bughunterWhat a great project 👍 Cars are not really my topic, even if I showed here the build of two Ford-T. But your careful build (and patient sanding) is simply fantastic!
13 September 2018, 20:53
Alexander GrivonevThanks Gordon, honestly i am relieved the paintjob turned out well but it also robbed a LOT of time. Now i finally can say i am on the finishing line with this thing!
17 October 2018, 16:51
Peter HardyAlex, I am on a fast road to glory! Well, I've been taking airbrush lessons and one day, if I live to 200, I will achieve ordinary status with an airbrush! I am hoping to get on the same website as the extraordinary Alex G!
18 October 2018, 08:00
Alexander Grivonev"I am hoping to get on the same website as the extraordinary Alex G"
we are on the same website, Peter😎
"too late to buy shares in tape, but it looks excellent..."
😄 Luckily i had some reserves, i promise the tape prices remain stable
19 October 2018, 04:57
Kees KleijwegtWow! Somehow I missed this one...
Stunnning work on the model and building report, great to read and watch.
This is going to be a true masterpiece! 👍👍👍
19 October 2018, 07:08
Brad Furminger... adds door seal idea to mental stash of cool ideas collected from this build...
19 October 2018, 23:04
Alexander GrivonevThanks mates!
Spanjaard, Brad: If you sink in into such a project, and this is i can say now the biggest one in my modeling "career" the ideas emerge by themselves while you progress. I am glad to share them with you guys!
20 October 2018, 10:16
Martin OostromFor a moment I thought you went a bit overboard on this build. On the thumbnail on my phone it looked like you made a cassette tape for the stereo. Turned out it was 'just' an improved headlight.
Inspiring this build 👍
25 October 2018, 06:35
Spanjaardwell, after doing the key hole, i would not be surprised you make and stereo with tapes😉
25 October 2018, 20:46
TreehuggerI don't care much for car models, but this was awesome! 🙂 I will re-read this and pick up some tips for polishing the paint with a dremel like tool.
26 October 2018, 19:23
Alexander GrivonevYou are welcome, Treehugger. This method works great, especially for paint but also for clear parts, canopies etc. Thanks Bart, Lee and Spanjaard 👍
26 October 2018, 19:40
TreehuggerWhat kind of oven cleaning spray did you use to remove the chrome from the plastic rims?
27 October 2018, 10:39
Alexander Grivonev[img1]
It comes in a Spray can, acquired at my local Supermarket. It foams up when you apply it.
27 October 2018, 10:47
Alexander GrivonevWell you don't need a chemist license for it, it is sold openly in a supermarket so i wouldn't worry. On the other hand i would not use it as a substitute for whipped cream either...
27 October 2018, 21:54
Peter HardyKC tells me brake fluid works too! I have used Mr Muscle before but I might give the bf a go. Thanks for all the detail in the explanations Alex, I'm learning heaps every time you post something!
28 October 2018, 01:50
Alexander GrivonevBrake fluid would probably work too for stripping chrome, at least it does work for stripping paint. It is rather aggressive and messy though and it definitely does corrode the plastic if you soak it for too long. I also wouldn't play around with it inside or without gloves in contrary to the oven cleaner.
28 October 2018, 09:47
Mike ThomasThis stuff works great, too and is a heck of a lot safer. Still wouldn't drink it or anything but it's not near as harsh as brake fluid or oven cleaner and it's biodegradable. I just used it the other day to strip a car body that was painted about 3 years ago. Overnight it was clean as new. superclean.com/products/
28 October 2018, 12:46
Spanjaardsounds a lot better than using Dettol... i used it once to stripe a model of 20+ year old humbrol ennamel... it did remove most of it.... but stinks!!! and you certainly need to use gloves if you want to keep your fingers 😛
28 October 2018, 21:29
Martin OostromBleach works fine for menfor removing chrome. Also smells like ****
I just love this build, every single picture shows a work of beauty.
28 October 2018, 22:10
Tom ...I agree with Mike on using Super Clean. It de-chromes super fast and is easy to handle.
30 October 2018, 15:44
Tom ...Alex, thank you for sharing your work. It's absolutely stunning! Makes my day to see such excellence.
30 October 2018, 15:59
Alexander GrivonevThank You Tom, Martin and all the others which are with me on this project since the beginning 👍 It is indeed a big motivation for me to see you guys taking so much pleasure in it. I have grown myself with this project and pushed my own boundaries and i don't think it would have become what it is now. I am glad i decided to do a WIP on this one and i am more glad to say, the project is as it happens on the finishing line!
Considering the Super Clean, i don't think we have this particular brand in our country but i am positive there are similar products to this one. So far the 1,59€ oven cleaner is working fine for me but it is good to know some alternative methods, thank You all for your contributions 👍
30 October 2018, 18:31
Peter HardyAlex, thanks for the WIP decision. As is obvious we are all enthralled with the process and creativity as well as your skills. Well, we are jealous of the skills but are happy to learn what we can as you go. Thanks again for sharing, your mother taught you well!
30 October 2018, 21:25
Spanjaardthanks for the WIP indeed. this is a really great project to follow. lots to learn and sit in awe of the beauty you are creating 🙂
31 October 2018, 07:26
Alexander GrivonevAll right mates, the project is progressing rapidly atm, i am on vacation this week. I almost cannot keep up uploading pictures 😄 enjoy
31 October 2018, 11:32
Wim van der Luijtwow.....just tok my time going through all the pics...what an epic project...like it a lot (can you please tell me the exact name of the transfer glue you use? I'm wondering if it will work for canopies on 1:48 airplanes too)
31 October 2018, 16:06
Alexander GrivonevHi Wim, i appreciate your approval! The product is called "467MP" by 3M. It might work for canopies although it could also be a little thick. I think one should just try!
31 October 2018, 16:18
Alexander GrivonevMates, i am pleased to inform you that the model is finished as of 31.10.2018. My SCM WIP is always "lagging" behind a day or two because i am taking my time to sort out and pick the best pictures for you guys (I am making A LOT of them during my projects, only for the Countach one i am estimating 3000-4000). More and final pictures following in the next days!
cheers, Alex
31 October 2018, 21:54
Daniel KlinkApplause, applause, applause 👍 👍 👍.. Epic, wonderful, pure Honey what else could i say??
Ok, Fantastic Job Alex! Congrats to this Gem...
31 October 2018, 22:04
Spanjaardand absolute wonder of a model... simply stunning the love and details (and work) that you have put in this baby. it is one of my favorite builds in SCM, so far. congrats and my utmost respect in flawless build. and it was going to just be OOB 😛
Those dampers are simply fantastic by the way!
31 October 2018, 22:29
Mike ThomasCongratulations, Alex. I've been building automotive subjects off and on for about 45 years now and this is one of the most incredible builds I have seen. You took an aged kit and turned it into a museum quality masterpiece! It was a pleasure to watch it come to life and I can't wait to see what's next! 🙂
1 November 2018, 01:45
Alexander GrivonevGuys, hold your horses the WIP is not finished yet 😄😄.
I appreciate all Your kind comments. Spanjaard, Mike, this build is far from "flawless" or "masterpiece" There is much i am happy with, e.g. the paint, some things i would have done differently in hindsight. I should have fittet the body parts better before painting, now i am having a hard time to make them look decent when closed and not having immense gaps. There was much, MUCH more room for improvement in this kit, believe me. But i wanted to finish in this decade eventually and there are so many more fantastic kits to build! What's next? I't won't be a car that's for sure😄
1 November 2018, 10:27
Alexander GrivonevGuys, I finally dumped the last pictures. Thank You all for Your support! It was a long project, but now it's finally finished. To be correct, the kit is finished, for the final photoshoot i have a few additional ideas. All the luggage space shouldn't remain empty! Take care and have a nice weekend!
cheers
Alex
3 November 2018, 10:13
Spanjaardreally curious to see what you place in the trunk now!. this is as Björn said, epic build. one of my all time favourites in SCM, and no, i am not flattering you Alexander 🙂
3 November 2018, 21:42
Spanjaardmay i ask what exactly is the reference of the transfer glue you use, and where do you buy it?
3 November 2018, 21:50
Alexander GrivonevThanks a lot mates! Spanjaard, the product is called "467MP" and is made by 3M. I obtained mine on eBay
4 November 2018, 10:41
TreehuggerLovely! I just realized that there is a pair of windows facing the rear just behind the doors. I did not think about them until now.
5 November 2018, 09:47
Peter HardyAlex, I actually caught myself looking at car kits yesterday. You are responsible for that!!!
6 November 2018, 00:55
Peter HardyNeither, more like a motor museum. scalemates.com/kits/1002868-..3-metal-master-cadillac-v-16
6 November 2018, 06:36
Thomas K.Congratulation! This car (and what do you do with this kit) is absolutly beautiful, i love it! 👍
6 November 2018, 15:38
Alexander GrivonevThanks Dave, Kerry, Thomas!
It's always good to explore new territories Pete!
7 November 2018, 08:59
wilkyI have the Otaki radio controlled version of this kit.
I also made this one and the LP500 both Otaki in the eighties.
Myer in Adelaide were getting rid of them for twenty dollars.
I should have bought them all
26 November 2018, 18:35
Daniel KlinkFAntastic Alex simply fantastic...! I can almost smell fragrance of citrus 🙂
26 November 2018, 19:06
Alexander GrivonevThanks, mates!
wilky, I might build the LP500 too! At least now I now what to expect when building this kit 😄 oh and 20 dollars per piece, this is nuts....here in Europe you hardly find any below 200€
IIBSWAT, the mats were not my idea, I don't want to take credit for that. I found this technique online, the link is in the comment section somewhere.
27 November 2018, 05:54
wilkyI have seen the prices on ebay for these kits and had I purchased them way back then I could be making a good profit now.
I can't remember where I bought or how much I paid for the RC one.
I have never seen an RC one for sale since
27 November 2018, 06:18
M MDamn... it took me most of the day to go through all of this but it was amazing. Can you explain the transfer glue a little more? Did you roll it on the plastic where the window attaches?
Thanks and again, beautiful kit
7 January 2019, 03:23
Alexander GrivonevHi M M, glad You liked it!
This transfer glue is basically double sided tape where the "sticky part" between the two layers of release paper is more "liquid" and glue like than in normal double sided tape. Just like with the latter you cut it in strips of your desired size and apply. E.g. for the windshield i cut it into strips, apply them on the windshield edges, pull off the release paper and install the windshield. I hope this helps
7 January 2019, 08:18
Martin von Schreckensteinhello. i do not like cars and lamborghinis especially, but boy oh boy was this build a pleasure to watch! all smooth and polished! beautiful
7 January 2019, 08:36
Alexander Grivonev"i do not like cars and lamborghinis especially" That is a truly shocking statement there, my friend😄
I am glad You liked it anyway!
7 January 2019, 08:54
Björn SvedbergThis is truly a masterpiece, and the build log is excellent! 👍 👍
12 January 2019, 11:16
Album info
I don't know how many years this Doyusha kit was laying around, wasting place with its huge box, collecting dust. At last i decided to give it a shot and started this project already in December 2017. Well, the molds are from the 70ies, first released by Otaki and you could say the kit is qualitywise in his midlife crisis years, although it was probably far ahead of its time back then...
