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Treehugger
My two items on preorder finally shipped today. :)
1:1000 Blockade Runner (Bandai Spirits 5055362)
Star Wars
Blockade Runner Vehicle Model 014
Bandai Spirits 1:1000
5055362 (014)
2018 | New tool
+
03. December 2018 at 15:04:23 Share
Katya Hodgson Would be interesting to see how they scale with my 1/1000 Uchuu Senkan Yamato model kits...
12. January at 17:57:27
Treehugger This model is about palm size.
12. January at 19:38:16
Katya Hodgson Smaller than I expected...
12. January at 20:22:37
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January 11, 2019

Treehugger added a new photoalbum.
17. December 2018 at 16:58:08 Share
Bart Goesaert Interested in this one, and what you will do with it... have the kit in stash, but think it will be an OOB build for me eventually.. Always thought the kit had less flaws then the Soar Art begemoth...
20. December 2018 at 13:44:02
Treehugger You would be wise to try the simple changes shown on Nigel's Modeling Bench channel on youtube. Shortening the barrel at least seems like a must.

Nigel has videos on both the 1:72 and 1:35 kit. :)

I don't agree with everything he suggests, but it really good input.
Below is one of the videos on the 1:35 kit. He also has videos on the 1:72 one.
Youtube Video

20. December 2018 at 14:37:16
Treehugger Re. image 7 in my album, showing a second area on the barrel having a silvery color to it. A mystery of mine solved I think:

Looking at photos, the long barrel was built in two or more pieces, that meant that the outer end of the barrel was fed through the bottom part of the barrel, and so I guess, the other silvery area on the barrel was just there for sliding through the very end of the first base part of the barrel. :)

I had been wondering if maybe that second silvery area on the barrel was recoiling with each firing of the cannon, but photos seem to not show that, so instead I guess that other silvery area is just meant to slide through the base part of the barrel.

Note: I guess that would mean, that this part of the barrel, the silvery part, would be cylindrical, otherwise, with a cone shape, the part obviously wouldn't be able to pass through the base part of the barrel. :) The kit part with this other shiny area on the barrel looks like it is conical in shape, which I will change I think, to become cylindrical.
30. December 2018 at 20:30:31
Dave Flitton Watching this one too
31. December 2018 at 19:57:11
Treehugger Aaah. I think I figured out why the pairs of vertical beams at the center looks wider. That was a real head scratcher for a long time.

In image 31, I have sketched out how I think the T beams have been arranged, based on photos.
02. January at 12:08:18
Treehugger I am really really happy with the result so far, trying to draw the detailing for this railway cannon. :)

I am sure there are plenty of minor flaws on the kit yet to be discovered, but I will try to focus on the basic shapes and be happy with trying to fix the basic stuff.

I have great confidence that I can continue with this when I start changing the plastic. Just have to fix a few more minor details on the sides.
02. January at 23:01:48
Treehugger Image 42: Aha. I finally figured it out.
06. January at 17:50:56
Wim van der Luijt the phrase " if it looks right, it is right" will never catch on in your part of the universe, will it? ;) I'm interested to see how you pull this off..count me in!
07. January at 18:23:41
Treehugger I guess the drawing don't provide much entertainment, but there are some interesting patterns there that aren't found on the kit. Occasionally I get to write some comment on the drawing.

All the drawings are work in progress, and might be changed. I try to keep in mind a few variables, so once I figure out something, I can tweak things to make everything fit together better. :)

I noticed today that the breechblock is imo filling the cavity of the construction behind it, the cavity is probably there for the recoil action. Photo show the breechblock clearly further ahead, and not filling the hole in the floor on top (covered by some huge tray). :)

I will have to re-draw stuff, after adjusting the spacing between the many hand wheels, by one pixel, however this is a minor inconvenience.

Looking at photos, they seem to show that the main shape, that is tall, is collapsable, folding back into itself. The many hand wheels are probably there as numerous pins that keep the elevated structure in place when erect.
07. January at 18:48:23
Ingo F Mate, thats hell lot of work you got before you.
08. January at 08:28:40
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January 07, 2019

Treehugger added the Advanced Modeling UB-32A-24 57 mm C-5 rocket launcher (1:48) to his stash.
1:48 UB-32A-24 57 mm C-5 rocket launcher (Advanced Modeling AMC 48011-5)
UB-32A-24 57 mm C-5 rocket launcher Suitable for Mi-8MT, Mi-24 helicopters
Advanced Modeling 1:48
AMC 48011-5
2017 | New tool
+
07. January at 13:30:34 Share
Treehugger added the Advanced Modeling UB-32A-24 57 mm C-5 rocket launcher (1:48) to his stash.
1:48 UB-32A-24 57 mm C-5 rocket launcher (Advanced Modeling AMC 48011-5)
UB-32A-24 57 mm C-5 rocket launcher Suitable for Mi-8MT, Mi-24 helicopters
Advanced Modeling 1:48
AMC 48011-5
2017 | New tool
+
07. January at 13:30:23 Share
Treehugger and Stuart Perry are now mates.
07. January at 09:15:22 Share

December 31, 2018

Treehugger added a new project.
Albums: 1 with 50 images
1:72
In progress
1:72 80cm K(E) Railway Gun "Dora" (Hobby Boss 82911)
 
17. December 2018 at 14:50:33 Share
Treehugger So.. I hear there are corrections to be made to this kit. I better hop to it. In the beginning, I will rely on the videos by "Nigel's modeling bench" on youtube, and then I will have a look for myself when I get a book I ordered. I think I will do some other changes to the barrel.

Disclaimer: I don't quite know how to best correct the Hobby Boss kit, but I will try.

So far: I ordered a pack of six separate metal rails of the type O gauge zink silver flat bottom rails (Peco IL-7FB), something in between the possibly over-sized rails and the most realistic sized rails, to try make the new metal rail fit to the plastic sleepers and other track parts. I ordered a book in German with lots of photos which will arrive later this week. I have started to investigate shortening the barrel and tweak all the wheels. I will try to fix the shape of the eight carriages if I can figure out how, or at least add some missing detailing with styrene. I will try add details to the breech, and more. I might attempt to correct the lower part of the main body if it makes any sense to me. The height of the hand railing is also something that is suspected to be a little wrong.
17. December 2018 at 15:08:20
Dave Flitton Time to write the definitive "Building the Dora in 1/72"
26. December 2018 at 20:21:36
Treehugger It is a nice thought, but that would be a lot of work. The important thing for me is to try figure out the basic stuff. Although all of this might look complicated, doing one thing at a time will eventually lead to completion. :) A little here and there and the kit would be done in no time.

The most important correction is probably the shortening of the barrel, and I thought it was a good idea to make this drawing to bring some sense to the chaos of all the different variables that make up the carriages and how it all looks.

I will probably find more things to fix and I will try mention them, but I don't think I will make some definite build guide, unless maybe I can try keep track of the changes I make.
26. December 2018 at 21:13:52
Treehugger Edited.. Heh, I will have to keep scratching my head about this.

Uuuh. Looking at proportions of a drawing and the kit, now suspect that the kit is ca 0.72 m too short in the middle in total. As if someone put a ruler across that one drawing in a book, and measured the bottom length, but failed to see that the two pages showing the drawing is shortened because of the way the two pages are put into the book. Hm, I think that would also explain why the kit seemed too tall. The drawing that is spanning two pages at the center, would show undistorted height, but a too-short length, because of the two page span.

Comparing the kit top, to the drawing in the book, I might get lucky, as it seems that the top part is proportional to that drawing. Unsure about the ass end of the top side.

This is so exciting! :D It is close to 03:30 in the middle of the night, time to go to bed.
30. December 2018 at 02:18:07
Treehugger I am discovering more things. I have good hope of making all of these changes. Top part of cannon, is not supposed to start at the front edge, but have an inset of about 5mm according to photos.

In sketch version 20, I have arranged the numerous hand wheels in sequence, and the spans in between the hand wheels was made equal. I added a third hand wheel where I once thought there were only two, and fortunately it made sense to also widen main shape by 5 mm, perhaps two fixes in one if I am a little lucky.

I think, if I turn out to be a little lucky here, if extending the main shape by 1 cm in total (0.72m in 1:1), I can perhaps just extend the big floor on rear top, by same amount.

Full png file: https://ibb.co/LZHdJMX (re-re-re-re-re-re-uploaded)

Note: The German book on railway cannons, on page 160-161, have a side view plan drawing, however this looks like a concept drawing, and not the real thing, so I don't trust the measurements given. Maybe just a related project.

Same drawing, but with the other half added to show the full length of the main shape.
https://ibb.co/P10fsT6

When switching over from Photoshop to GIMP (free) the transparency in the layers got messed up and pixels for antialised lines for the wheels got shifted. Have to clean that up later. Unsure if I want to re-work the wheel area on the carriages more, as it would probably require further changes to the kit parts, which may or may not be difficult.
30. December 2018 at 14:34:52
Treehugger Hrm..

So.. looking at the plan drawing on page 160-161 in that German book on Railway cannons, it is all too clear that this particular drawing is not the size of the Dora cannon. More like 81% of the Dora (or, some parts are). And clearly the shape of the top carriages look off on that drawing.

The tallest part of the ends of the main body that stretches between all the carriages, are clearly as tall as a human. When I convert the numbers given on the plan drawings in the book, that end, is merely about 81% of what was expected, and low compared to the height of a human figure, even if that human figure on the photo was as low as 160 cm tall, the end would be no taller than 160, around 155 cm.

At least the kit part on the ends, looks about the correct size, in simply assuming that the human figure is 183 cm tall.

I can't help wonder if photos possibly could have been be doctored, or if maybe they used oddly tall/low figures on some of the photos intentionally.

*shrugs*

The quest continues to try figure this all out.

I had to start making a larger drawing, to better get to draw those numerous hand wheels along the side of the main shape.
31. December 2018 at 13:05:59
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Treehugger
Tip: If ordering figures in 1:72 scale for a particular model, better check beforehand how tall the figures are. Turns out that figures I got from 'Ceasar' are below average height imo. Looks to me that this figure I measured is 23 mm tall x 72 = real height of less than 1.7m. Makes me wonder if all their figures are equally "tall", or if there might be variants in height.
22. December 2018 at 19:20:13 Share
Ingo F Hey mate, check this site: plasticsoldierreview.com/Index.aspx
For the kits they have in their database, there is always an information about the hight of the figures.
30. December 2018 at 21:57:53
Treehugger Thank you :)
31. December 2018 at 07:53:09
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December 29, 2018

Treehugger
Q: I have gotten some bits of steel rod in varying sizes, and although the larger diameter rods are shiny, I think the thinner ones could use some buffing or something. What can I do to make these steel rods become more shiny? Idea is to use them for the shiny metal part of landing gear on models.

It sort of looks like the smaller, non shiny rods have more noticeable turn pattern, if only very subtle. They do seem rounded, but not shiny.
29. December 2018 at 17:53:21 Share
Martin Oostrom Perhaps polish them?
29. December 2018 at 17:54:29
Treehugger How exactly? What did you have in mind?
29. December 2018 at 19:28:14
Martin Oostrom Try a drop of polishing compund and a rag.
29. December 2018 at 19:34:00
Treehugger Ok, I rubbed some various Tamiya polishing compound stuff onto a couple of rods and they seem to brighten when comparing to others that I didn't rub with a microfiber cloth.
29. December 2018 at 20:01:42
29. December 2018 at 20:03:30
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December 28, 2018

Treehugger
Today I finally ended my troubles with some 8 or maybe 9 different ebay sellers in this one city in China, that never sent me the ordered item. And I got my last refund arranged today. I had to wait a loooong time to get to ask for a refund, and I had to write down all the details so that I didn't for get it. I probably lost some £20 in total in payment costs that aren't refunded.
28. December 2018 at 19:55:01 Share
Treehugger
A fun thing about this particular product, is that these photo etch bolt heads do not require any detachment, as the bits of photo etch are stuck to an adhesive plate. So one can just grab a bolt head with a small tweezer and apply it immediately . :) The bits of photo etch has to be glued on though, they do not contain any adhesive from what I can tell.

I should point out that the thickness of this photo etch is limited to, well, I am not sure, looks like fairly standard thickness to the photo etch plate, which may or not be adequate. I wish the photo etch thickness was a little thicker. I guess one could stack two bits on top of each other, but that seems like it might be extremely difficult to achieve.

Also included, some kind of Y shaped thingies, and what looks like the tip of the bolt shaft itself, presumably to be glued on top of the bits of flat bolt head. These small round tips are limited in number, compared to the flat bolt heads.
28. December 2018 at 16:10:11 Share

December 23, 2018

Treehugger added the Zvezda German HQ WWII (1:72) to his stash.
1:72 German HQ WWII (Zvezda 6133)
 
German HQ WWII
Zvezda 1:72
6133
+
23. December 2018 at 10:39:20 Share

December 21, 2018

Treehugger
Wow, I can't seem to find any 1:48 scale Mi-8 heli kits on eBay.
20. December 2018 at 14:36:11 Share
Gordon Sørensen Not any less than $200, anyway.
https://squadron.com/Revell-..D-Hind-D-RG4942-p/rg4942.htm
Found a website with some manuals of the Mi-8 if you do find a kit and want to super detail it...
https://scalenews.de/mil-mi-..he-daten-zeichnungen-teil-1/
https://scalenews.de/mil-mi-..he-daten-zeichnungen-teil-2/
21. December 2018 at 00:19:44
Treehugger I don't normally care much about semi ugly soviet stuff, but I've played a lot of Arma, and Arma 2/3 has has these things in it, so I have gotten used to how they look. :)

I will pass on the expensive stuff. I had hoped there was some new Zvezda kit or something, but nope. Very surprising to me.
21. December 2018 at 07:53:57
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December 20, 2018

Treehugger
Tip: I just got this mitre hand held tool, but sadly it isn't very usable, unless I cut manually. I was hoping I could use the angle guide tool, but that is not accurate, and also doesn't allow working with bits of styrene because the angle guide is flimsy plastic and has a gap and so small styrene parts would just fall though and not lie in place properly.

Product: "Expo 74365 Hand Held Mitre Guillotine".

One good thing is that it looks like it uses a carpet knife blade, that probably can be replaced easily. Could be an idea to try create some kind of custom mitre for this thing, to try make precise 90 deg cuts.
20. December 2018 at 12:40:12 Share
Treehugger
Q: Does anyone happen to already know that guy behind the youtube channel "Nigel's Modeling Bench"?

I would like to send him a message, but he has no contact information.
20. December 2018 at 07:27:42 Share

December 17, 2018

Treehugger
Q: I am thinking of using distilled water as an alternative for thinner for Vallejo's acrylic paints, but is that a good idea?

Given that 'thinner' is said to help dry the paint, as opposed to using 'flow enhancer', I thought maybe using distilled water might be something in between, but does that make good sense?
10. December 2018 at 09:51:55 Share
Olivier Why not normal water ?
10. December 2018 at 10:01:40
Treehugger Only thing is that water contain small amounts of chalk afaik, but it could be that the amount is too small to be noticeable. I just thought I would be on the safe side on this for long term use.
10. December 2018 at 10:40:42
Hans Robben Distilled water is free from any contaminants including chalk.
17. December 2018 at 10:23:47
Wim van der Luijt What the reason to introduce another variable in the finishing process of your kits?

Assuming it is cost: After spending so many hours of your time and much money on a kit and maybe even aftermarket parts, is it really worth economizing on thinner?
17. December 2018 at 11:47:11
Treehugger The general idea is not to save money, but to maybe make the paint dry slower, in having assumed that thinner makes the paint dry faster. I already bought as liter of distilled water now, so heh I might as well use it. :)
17. December 2018 at 16:37:54
Olivier You can use it in your steam iron.
17. December 2018 at 16:58:34
Thomas Bischoff I would advise against distilled water. Vallejo offers a flow improver which is in fact a retardant. Add 20% and you have days of drying time ????
17. December 2018 at 17:28:45
Wim van der Luijt I use Vallejo flow improver, doesn't seem to slow things down too much.....but haven't tried high concentrations yet
17. December 2018 at 18:46:23
Bryn Crandell I use distilled water for decaling. We have hard water here in western Texas. It creates silvering worse than not clear coating before decaling.
17. December 2018 at 20:01:53
mika02 Thanks
17. December 2018 at 20:03:46
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Treehugger and Bryn Crandell are now mates.
17. December 2018 at 15:21:40 Share

December 12, 2018

07. December 2018 at 19:22:16 Share
View full thread with 18 comments
Alexander G. Wow, you are being serious with this one, good luck!
11. December 2018 at 05:36:24
Bart Goesaert Looking good so far. the tailboom should be lengthened too. See the CMK-upgrade kit instructions (https://www.scalemates.com/kits/113377-cmk-4138-mi-24v-revised-set) as I recall the length of the stub-wings was also off... When the exhausts don't have the cover in place, don't forget to add the drive shaft:

[img1]

maybe also off interest
https://britmodeller.com/for..48-czech-air-force-finished/
11. December 2018 at 10:56:59
Treehugger Haha, so that is what that thing is, inside the exhaust opening, the drive shafts?

I will investigate and see if I can do something with the tail length and the two fins.

I think I will have to do without that CMK correction kit. Only interesting thing would have been the wings, but I think I will have to work on the wings myself.

Aftermarket parts so far:
Wheels w. separate wheel caps, pitot tube, gun barrel, resin cockpit, exterior photo etch set.

Aftermarket parts, to order:
2 x packs of resin rocket pods (four in total)

I will attempt to scratch build the landing gear. :)
11. December 2018 at 11:18:22
Spanjaard so you are making your own putty with the tamiya extra thin and some bits of plastic.... interesting. i need to remember that when my bottle is almost done :)
11. December 2018 at 11:28:28
Hans Robben Looking good, following.
11. December 2018 at 11:30:58
Treehugger @Spanjaard , for putty I prefer the Vallejo's acrylic based putty, but the sprue goo is good for reinforcing the existing bonds between plastic parts on the inside of a model. Also a good idea to put some on any thin styrene (one the backside), if you plan to do some aggressive sanding, as the styrene might be ripped off when it gets too thin when only having been glued with Tamiya Extra Thin Cement. Some sprue goo makes the styrene more solidly glued on.

If you are not careful, you may see some thin threads of plastic which may end up on the model, but really not a big issue. The goo is liquid when leaving the bottle, but may cause a thread to appear if you spend too much time fiddling around.
11. December 2018 at 12:46:53
Spanjaard thanks Treehugger
11. December 2018 at 16:09:18
Treehugger So I want to scratch build the landing gear, to avoid using the not-that-good-looking kits parts.

Seems to me that the dimensions might be:

Main landing gear, thickest part = 3 mm
Main landing gear, actuator = 2 mm
Main landing gear, supporting rods = 1.5 mm (looks like half the thickness of the thickest part)
Nose gear, thickest part = 2.5 mm
Nose gear, actuator = 1.5 mm

I wonder if there are hobby products that sell bits of shiny steel rods 2 mm and 1.5 mm thick.

Update:
Looks like I have ABS pipe 3mm wide outside and 2mm wide on the inside. :)
Only need various steel rods, which I ordered this evening.

I will have to do an evaluation to see if this solution is good or not, regarding the dimensions of all the parts and the overall look.
12. December 2018 at 19:42:18
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Treehugger
Q: What color could I tint modern tank's view port glass with?

Somehow I doubt that Tamiya clear blue (X-23) will do, but I could be wrong. I don't know where I have it that the view port glass would be blue'ish, but I think I might have seen it in photos or something.
11. December 2018 at 20:28:23 Share
Carlos Cisneros I used a medium blue base with an overcoat of Tamiya clear red. On actual vehicles there is an anti laser coating that has a purplish to iridescent gold, depending upon the angle of the light.
12. December 2018 at 00:37:39
Nathan Dempsey I'm pretty sure AFV Club makes decal (or sticker) set for tank view-ports. Also there's a listing on E-bay if you're in the USA:
Ebay.com Item - 1 72 1 35 1 16 1 6 Anti Reflection Coating Lens Sticker 2 X 3 inch Sheet
12. December 2018 at 01:03:55
Carlos Cisneros AFV Club does make those appliqués.
12. December 2018 at 03:01:48
Treehugger Thanks everybody. I will try the anti reflection coating sticker.

Hrm, I think maybe I should have gotten the Afv Club instead. Seems like the coatings might be different between vehicles. I'll see if I can get one of those as well, at least they are cheaper.
12. December 2018 at 06:50:59
Treehugger Hrm. Is the AFV Club stickers already cut into shape? Hard to see on photos. Could be that some of the sticker area are pre-cut while there also is an area for cutting custom sized bits of tape.
12. December 2018 at 06:58:03
Carlos Cisneros Yes, I have a set of their 1/35 stickers. They are pre cut for a particular vehicle and the optics on that vehicle. But there is excess on the sheet for you to use as you please
12. December 2018 at 16:02:12
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Treehugger
Hrm, I've come across yet again a hard to find kit:
Revell 05021 1:144 U-BOAT TYP 206A Coastal Submaine.
12. December 2018 at 06:13:00 Share

December 11, 2018

Treehugger
Q: I need help identifying the lighter base color on this Challenger 2 tank. Build guide says Mr. Color 'olive drab' which I convert to Vallejo's 'Medium Olive', however this color seem too dark compared to what I see on photos. Build guide suggest, for the darker base color, 80% black + 20% 'medium olive'.

Any clue as to what particular camo color in the photo is?

[img1]
09. December 2018 at 19:46:22 Share
Ingo F Maybe Revell Nr. 45 helloliv (light olive) will work.
11. December 2018 at 15:03:04
Augie Humbrols 86. 116 or 150 may be what your looking for. There was a lot of variation due to how the paint was applied so may really be down to personal preference (Speaking from experience of a ex MOD Land rover, they just paint over the top each time..)
11. December 2018 at 18:09:31
Treehugger I couldn't find Humbrol 150 on the conversion chart I work with.

How about 'radome tan'? A more lighter color. It is important that the ligher base color is not a dark color.
11. December 2018 at 20:32:34
Add a comment »
Treehugger added a new photoalbum.
02. November 2018 at 11:36:07 Share
View full thread with 33 comments
Treehugger And unless you are going for making some x10, x20, or thirty things with bits of styrene, if things fail, it is a good idea to try again if you only try to make a few pieces of some scratch built detailing. :)
21. November 2018 at 18:06:53
21. November 2018 at 19:10:10
Martin Bishop Very nice work on this, some great detail there. I have the original release of there Chally, so i know i will have a bit of work to do to make it right. Some great ideas in this build.
10. December 2018 at 15:16:36
Treehugger One thing I have not yet gotten used to, is how thin the layer of paint is with airbrushing, so scratch marks shows up too clearly from under the layers of paint. Having said that, I have tried to learn new things with regard to airbrushing with Vallejo's primer paint, so I hope I can both make it look nice and smooth and maybe also get a better cover. I ofc try to always remove scratch marks during building. The dried putty is easily dented though.

I will for this project try to make use of Vallejo's gloss varnish. I will experiment with mixing the gloss varnish with water and see how that goes. I am only used to the 'Humbrol's Clear' gloss coat product but feel it is a tad difficult to work with.

Update: Hah, I pretty much forgot! I have some PE bolt heads ordered, so those have to go on before I start airbrushing.
10. December 2018 at 15:42:03
Martin Bishop I recently started useing MR Paint and that shows up every little scratch. With enamles ican get away with a lot, but these new paints go on so thin, you have to do a good job prepping the surface. Of course the good think with armour is that you can always cover it with a bit of mud lol.
10. December 2018 at 15:59:50
Patrick Hagelstein I love the Mr. Paint range as well and one of their benefits is that you can apply layer after layer without obscuring any surface detail! Sadly enough that means a scratch will show up layer after layer... ;) A good thing to prevent this is to apply a primer coat using Mr. Surfacer 1000, 1200 or 1500 in a 1:1 ratio with Mr. Leveling Thinner. This will sharpen the surface detail but will fill in all those tiny scratches. Not sure how but it works!
10. December 2018 at 21:01:53
Bryn Crandell Another great one to catch up on. Love the detail on your pictures.
10. December 2018 at 21:10:25
Bart Goesaert Splendid work so far...
11. December 2018 at 09:01:44
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December 09, 2018

Treehugger
Q: Anyone having a reliable source for color chart for an older Mi-24 D(!) ? :)

As I try find out what colors I need, I am truly bewildered. Grays, blue, greens and I find it confusing.

The only trustworthy color chart I have is Zvezda's Mi-24 V, which dates back to 1988 in Afghanistan, but has a more pale yellowish base color. The kit instructions for Mini Hobby's Mi-24D says Dark Yellow for base color, being a little darker, I am guessing this might be an even older color scheme.
09. December 2018 at 18:54:36 Share
Treehugger
Q: Would it be possible to create weighted wheels from resin wheels after heating the solid resin wheels in very hot water? Anyone know?

Otherwise I will have to sand the wheels.

I do know, and have personally reshaped some 1:48 scale Sidewinder missiles in resin that was warped, they straightened themselves out after holding them down in very hot water. Ofc, those resin parts were fairly thin and weren't as solid as the resin wheels I will be using.
09. December 2018 at 17:26:56 Share
Hans Robben I don't know but if it gets soft you can deform it. Why not try it on a piece of scrap casting block?
09. December 2018 at 17:50:08
Hans Robben Thinking about it a bit longer it maybe better to use a hot plate or an iron as a heat source so you only deform the part of the wheel that is intended to be deformed. If you heat the complete part you might get some unwanted deformations.
09. December 2018 at 17:54:23
Wim van der Luijt I wouldn't bet on it. PU resin is a 2 part system, the result is not a thermoplast and cannot be remoulded.....slight deformation (ie straightening out bent parts) is possible only to a limited degree......sanding is the way to go
09. December 2018 at 17:56:05
Hans Robben Sorry but there are thermoplastic PU resins out there. Just try it if it works or not.
09. December 2018 at 18:00:21
Treehugger Now that I am reading the comments here, trying to heat the whole wheel sounds like an obvious mistake, heh, so I won't try that.
09. December 2018 at 18:05:21
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Treehugger
Q: Anyone know why the two variants of the Soviet rocket pod UB-32A-73 looks different than the UB-32A-24?

The 24 variant is seen on Hind attack helis, and I guess the 73 variant is seen on aircraft, however why does the Hind variant have the cut out at the bottom? Anyone know?
09. December 2018 at 15:08:24 Share
Treehugger added the Master Mi-24 Hind (D/E) - JakB-12.7 machine gun barrel and DUAS probe (1:48) to his stash.
09. December 2018 at 13:50:37 Share
Treehugger This is getting expensive, but I have some refunds from eBay that even things out for December. :)
09. December 2018 at 13:51:14
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Treehugger added the Pavla Models Mil Mi-24 Hind-D (1:48) to his stash.
1:48 Mil Mi-24 Hind-D (Pavla Models C48008)
 
Mil Mi-24 Hind-D Cockpit set for MiniHobbyModels and Monogram kit
Pavla Models 1:48
C48008
+
09. December 2018 at 13:30:45 Share

December 08, 2018

Treehugger added a new project.
1:48
In progress
1:48 Mi-24P Hind-F (Mini Hobby Models 80311)1:48 Mi-24D Hind exterior (Eduard 48414)4+
 
07. December 2018 at 18:54:22 Share
Treehugger Hm. As I start cleaning up the wings for the Mi-24 model, I notice that the wings are probably shaped wrong, in that the leading edge goes straight out from the fuselage, while reference data seem to show the leading edge sweeping backwards, maybe as much as the rear edge sweeping forwards.

I can correct this, but I will have to use plenty of putty, and also probably saw off the end of the wing, and re attach it, and also re-make the pylon points under the wings which should be easy enough.
08. December 2018 at 20:42:46
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Treehugger added the Eduard Mi-24D Hind exterior (1:48) to his stash.
1:48 Mi-24D Hind exterior (Eduard 48414)
 
Mi-24D Hind exterior MHM
Eduard 1:48
48414
2003 | New tool
+
08. December 2018 at 15:31:08 Share

December 07, 2018

29. November 2018 at 17:27:52 Share
View full thread with 21 comments
Treehugger @Bryn Crandell , I use Photoshop CC (subscription based, about £10/month) Simplest free option might be eh um Gimp. Fusion 8 is also free (compositing) but is node based and somewhat complicated. Fusion 8 is imo better than photoshop for reducing photos to make them look the best because you can chose different sampling filters and easily preview the result.

Also, there might be more or less free online services that allow image editing and I am sure you can add text as well.
05. December 2018 at 16:06:01
Treehugger Btw, I think I will stick with the kit parts in plastic shown in image 12, unfortunately. I had fun making that part with PE + styrene and it looked really good. :(

I will try this again with the two larger PE shield plates for the "vierling", mixing PE and styrene to add thickness.
05. December 2018 at 16:07:58
Steven Van Dyck The PE part is not too thin, Treehugger.

https://flickr.com/photos/massimofoti/4902766860
05. December 2018 at 16:51:33
Treehugger I still think so. :| Imho PE sheet is 70-80% of the thickness depicted on the photo.
05. December 2018 at 17:02:32
Holger Kranich Oh cool, i am in here!
05. December 2018 at 17:21:46
Steven Van Dyck I thought you were comparing to the plastic part. Seen from the side, your adaptation seems fine. The holes should indeed be excentric, maybe it's adviseable to copy the outline on a metal sheet and try to cut it yourself.
05. December 2018 at 18:11:32
Dave Flitton Looking like a busy build.
05. December 2018 at 18:35:41
Treehugger I had hoped to avoid airbrushing a bunch of smaller parts but I don't think I can avoid that for the flak guns.

@Steven Van Dyck , I decided to just use the plastic parts. I managed to scrape off a lot of the plastic and they are now fairly evenly thinned I think. Probably a little too thick still, but I don't dare go any further else they might snap or bend.

Seems like I can't stall starting airbrushing, to get some paint on the chassis, and then finish working on the top side of the truck after that. Not sure how I am going to paint/assemble the flak guns.
05. December 2018 at 18:40:06
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Treehugger added this book to his library.
07. December 2018 at 11:01:50 Share
Treehugger There is apparently some things that can be done to correct the Hobby Boss' 1:72 Dora artillery model, so I ordered this book from Amazon, for an ok price.
07. December 2018 at 11:12:27
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wnolder

2018-12-07 11:12:27

2016-12-08 20:43:11

28845

todo

 


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