I suspect he has an account here, but I couldn't find it when I looked for it. I think I maybe saw it a year ago or something like that.
June 16, 2021
Tip: Tuscani (Korean manufacturer) sells computer mice that has sound dampened buttons. Really nice! I've have a few of them now, always ending up wearing them out, but they really last a good while I think.
Last model I used HD-M400s (smallish)
New model I ordered HD-501plus (different color, and probably larger)
I can't accept using a noisy keyboard and a "CLICK" "CLICK" sounding mouse. 🙁
So, the higher numbered mouse HD-501plus, makes more noise than the one that was fairly quiet. I had hoped the larger model number was indicative of a newer model, but perhaps it is an older one. The HD-501plus is larger than the HD-M400sS, about 2cm longer.
June 7, 2021
1:72 scale, are people at Revell feeling ok? 🙂 I thought all their Star Wars stuff was made at all weird random scales all the time.
June 3, 2021
May 28, 2021
I started to strip the chromed parts with chlorine for about 14 hours, and was only partially successful. Apparently the backside came off easily, but the front side still has the chrome on mostly, so I will maybe have to consider trying the chrome stripping process again later. I guess I could just ignore the chrome and just sand the parts like I started doing for the large external fuel tank.
Treehugger, the Chrome used by Italeri is clear coated. You need to remove that first. I found that DOT4 brake fluid, removes the clear coat, without damaging the plastic. Soak in the fluid, for upto an hour, then give it a little scrub with an old toothbrush. Wash well with cold water, paper towel dry, then drop the part in some thick bleach. Part will be back to plastic, in less than 5 minutes. If you look through my stuff, I did a tutorial on this. Obviously, if you try a piece of chrome sprue first, you'll put your mind at ease. Good luck mate and I love that 378. They're pretty rare, these days.
I am happy to report that a second round of chlorine is removing more chrome, and so I hope after a day or so, I can remove the chrome. Now that I think about it, removing the chrome isn't very important to me, instead I could have made use of the chrome, because of how sanding the plastic smoother, is easier when you have some paint or something on the parts, instead of light gray plastic. 🙂 I also read that sunlight breaks down the substance, so I try cover the box I keep the liquid in.
Sigh, I received photo etch parts today in the mail (package), seemingly well packed and protected, still, the most fragile PE parts, three long pieces of metal for a large front grill PE part, one obviously and maybe a second as well were dented and is likely un-fixable. I will have to replace the three long metal bits for the front grill with styrene I think. :| No big deal, but not ideal.
I also ordered PE parts for the lights, which also includes transparent "glass" already created on top of the photo etch parts, which was very, very nice. I was worried it would only be all flat photo etch metal for the lights.
Sorry to hear your bad news mate. Maybe you could contact the manufacturer and they could send replacement parts? A true test, of customer service!
May 24, 2021
Hm, I guess I should re-check the size. Could be that the discs I have ought to be smaller. I have punching tools for every half mm, so I should be good.
Id did trim of material in the back and bottom of the disk on my build. Diameter is fairly large but the backside has to fit in a 'square' hole
Maybe you get some info here too. Nice build so far
Thank you. I am already keeping an eye on that forum thread. 🙂
Next up, I will have to clean up the deck/hull seams, the bow, the bilge keels, and maybe add some propeller stuff, BEFORE I start adding a flimsy edge all around on top of the deck which will be fragile after I glue that stuff on.
Looks like 4,5 mm Ø is a proper dimension for the pivoting disc for the 5 inch guns. I'll work on the 5" guns later.
Ah, I wonder now if maybe the hydraulic gasoline system, shown as a pipeline on the aft starboard side, might be used as a channel, keeping the fuel stored aft and away from the center of the ship, and then they pull gasoline towards the center via the pipe to fuel the planes. I wonder, maybe it works like this.
May 22, 2021
How can I resist? 🙂 This will be my very first 1:32 aircraft model. Reason for purchase: I once watched the movie 'Sky Fighters' and I thought the Mirage 2000 looked very nice. Two seater version being the nuclear delivery platform.
Oh hrm. I just noticed that somebody already made a nose correction kit, why the hell for? 🙁
To add to what I wrote: I suspect that what I wrote about a nose correction, perhaps isn't for the kit I linked to, but perhaps relevant to early single seater C models. I have the impression that, an initial rounded nose was for older models, and then, the nose changed after that, with non symmetric nose, presumably for all variants.
May 20, 2021
I am having some difficulty finding 1:32 scale vacuum canopies. Looking for something for Mirage 2000 two seater, but I would like to have a look at anything 1:32.
May 18, 2021
May 17, 2021
Somehow, some of the kits in the history are "Gold" kits, while the others are not. I wonder, what could be the explanation for that. I mean, I would have expected that every kit in the product history to be "Gold" versions if being derivatives from the initial kit. I think I've learned, but unconfirmed, that "Gold" kits supposedly have improved and sharper mouldings.
May 15, 2021
Overall, how is the kit so far? I'm thinking about either an ohio class or virginia class in 1:350, but I've never built a submarine.
I think with some work it will look nice, but the numerous panel lines all along the hull afaik shouldn't be there so I filled them in with vallejo putty and then sanded flush. It will imo be a little difficult gluing on the big top deck, which is supposed to have two long open slits on the sides, because there aren't many struts and as you can imagine the forward part will require putty and sanding and maybe more to look flush. I glued on styrene parts to keep the top deck piece steady. I expected Dragon kits to be great, but it seems rather mediocre imo.
I damaged the bollards when sanding so the large bollards have to be re-created. I will fill in the cavities around the bollards, sand flush and paint over with white or silver, as the bollards are retracted mostly into the hull, top surface looking somewhat flush all over.
Good to know! I will definitely be watching
May 14, 2021
May 9, 2021
The "army painter saw" is limited to 1,4 mm deep cuts, as it has a bulky end to stiffen the saw blade. Can't quite tell how thin the blade is, but the saw blade looks like maybe 0.2 mm thin.
Ah you are correct, 1,4 mm would be wrong.
I meant to say 1,4 cm, or 14 mm. 🙁
The biggest one I am aware of that X-acto makes has a blade 23m deep fyi.
Thank you. I'll try that one out! 🙂
You bet. I just noticed I typed 23m. It's 23mm... duh 😄
May 7, 2021
for some reason the bracket is dropped when you click on the link, so wikipedia does nto find the article
Fixed it 🙂 Url looks a little weird now.
I replaced ")" char with "%29"
This is called "% notation".
but it works, which is what counts 🙂
Someone enlarged the turrets with an easy fix:
I tried to figure out how much larger the turret base would have to be, and I came up with 5-6 % larger after looking at photos. 5-6% would equate to something like maybe 2-3 millimeter wider, but I only did a rough estimation off photos using a ruler and a calculator.
May 6, 2021
April 30, 2021
Buyer beware: Two of the four propellers are modelled wrong. Instead of one side mirroring the other, two sets of propeller blades have been put on (moulded) backwards.
April 29, 2021
I prefer to place a paper towel inside the "pot", and then I toss the paper after use, making sure there is minimum smell lingering around after I am done, also making sure I take out the garbage, not allowing airbrush cleaner smell stick around in the bin.
I haven't had a car kit in a long time. Is this a common issue with the chrome sprue looking this bad? 🙂
I have started to try strip the chrome using chlorine, but I suspect, the stuff I have is too weak, or.. it will take a while. Hmm.. maybe chlorine isn't the same as "bleach".
I will try some of the other stuff I have on bits of chrome sprue to see if I have anything that bites into the chrome.
Update: Hm, it sort of looks like something might be happening now. I guess maybe I have been impatient. 🙂
April 28, 2021
Q: Is anyone of you using this tool? Seems like a very nice tool for possibly making accurate cuts, assuming ofc that cut is perfectly angled. Guide says you can cut brass and aluminium rods with it. Presumably cutting styrene rods would be easy.
Considered buying it while ago, but decided to stick to my Lidly Dremel copy, which is more versatile. Also the price of the cutter is higher than the tool I use.
April 27, 2021
April 26, 2021
April 25, 2021
Anyone familiar with this website? Jay's Model Kits
April 24, 2021
Some other video, seem to show, with time lapse, how bleach magically strip the chrome off plastic parts, which would reduce the need for much scrubbing by hand later on.
April 23, 2021
I had been wondering if maybe "Kinetic Gold" meant some old kit they slapped "gold" label on to indicate some kind of old classic kit.
The Gold range refers to the use of lasers to cut the mold, so giving greater detail than previously possible.
I found a recent aftermarket product that isn't listed on Scalemates:
http://infini-model.com/index.php/portfolio/ims35002/ (webpage loads slowly)
Below is a related product from the same brand that is already listed:
USS ALASKA CB-1 1945 Detail ..NI Model IM-535012R1, 1:350)
You can add this yourself, Treehugger. I already added some stuff I had expected would be there already, like two WWP books and the Zuikaku shipyard wooden deck. It often depends on somebody starting a project on a certain topic and needing to add the kit. But use some different search terms like the brand, serial number or subject, because it's not always where you expect it.
Thank you for the feedback!
Interesting, somehow I haven't seen this kit showing up.
April 22, 2021
April 21, 2021
Q: Does anybody know if this particular kit comes with or without chromed parts?
It should do. While I'm not familiar with this particular kit, I've had a number of these large scale Italeri truck kits and they all included a pretty extensive sprue of chromed parts such as bumper, fuel tanks, grill, wheel rims and stacks etc.
I may want to have non-chromed parts and add metallic paint myself, but, I don't know for sure. I sort of have the impression (because I haven't built any car kit in a loong time) that chromed parts aren't necessarily nice, and maybe leaving a mark if cut from the sprue.
Yeah, I agree. Other issues are with sprue attachment points which tends to leave holes in the chrome plating when removed, and the cleaning up of joins on the stacks and fuel tanks etc. You can always remove the chrome plating with a bath of Mr Muscle oven cleaner etc and respray with your choice of metal paint.
I can answer my own question now, I found sprue photos at an online store. There is a sprue with chrome parts in the kit, wheel rims and other stuff. I had hoped to avoid using chemicals. 🙁
April 18, 2021
April 3, 2021
I don't think they have photograph tech in whatever country Hobby Boss resides in, because the plane has six windows for the canopy, but the kit has eight.
March 25, 2021
I have tried some cheaper drill bit sets, but I seem to be happy with this one. I ordered another two.
March 24, 2021
Interesting. Apparently a famous WW1 submarine that sunk 3 British cruisers within an hour.
I think it looks fairly nice for being some WW1 type of military hardware. 🙂
Afterwards it was used for 'training'.
I think that was German for 'espionage' back in WW1. Could be wrong though
March 22, 2021
March 17, 2021
Anyone familiar with this product? 😄 Seems like, maybe, an improvement to photo etch ship railings.
March 12, 2021
March 11, 2021
So.. I hear there are corrections to be made to this kit. I better hop to it. In the beginning, I will rely on the videos by "Nigel's modeling bench" on youtube, and then I will have a look for myself when I get a book I ordered. I think I will do some other changes to the barrel.
Disclaimer: I don't quite know how to best correct the Hobby Boss kit, but I will try.
So far: I ordered a pack of six separate metal rails of the type O gauge zink silver flat bottom rails (Peco IL-7FB), something in between the possibly over-sized rails and the most realistic sized rails, to try make the new metal rail fit to the plastic sleepers and other track parts. I ordered a book in German with lots of photos which will arrive later this week. I have started to investigate shortening the barrel and tweak all the wheels. I will try to fix the shape of the eight carriages if I can figure out how, or at least add some missing detailing with styrene. I will try add details to the breech, and more. I might attempt to correct the lower part of the main body if it makes any sense to me. The height of the hand railing is also something that is suspected to be a little wrong.
Time to write the definitive "Building the Dora in 1/72"
It is a nice thought, but that would be a lot of work. The important thing for me is to try figure out the basic stuff. Although all of this might look complicated, doing one thing at a time will eventually lead to completion. 🙂 A little here and there and the kit would be done in no time.
The most important correction is probably the shortening of the barrel, and I thought it was a good idea to make this drawing to bring some sense to the chaos of all the different variables that make up the carriages and how it all looks.
I will probably find more things to fix and I will try mention them, but I don't think I will make some definite build guide, unless maybe I can try keep track of the changes I make.
Edited.. Heh, I will have to keep scratching my head about this.
Uuuh. Looking at proportions of a drawing and the kit, now suspect that the kit is ca 0.72 m too short in the middle in total. As if someone put a ruler across that one drawing in a book, and measured the bottom length, but failed to see that the two pages showing the drawing is shortened because of the way the two pages are put into the book. Hm, I think that would also explain why the kit seemed too tall. The drawing that is spanning two pages at the center, would show undistorted height, but a too-short length, because of the two page span.
Comparing the kit top, to the drawing in the book, I might get lucky, as it seems that the top part is proportional to that drawing. Unsure about the ass end of the top side.
This is so exciting! 😄 It is close to 03:30 in the middle of the night, time to go to bed.
I am discovering more things. I have good hope of making all of these changes. Top part of cannon, is not supposed to start at the front edge, but have an inset of about 5mm according to photos.
In sketch version 20, I have arranged the numerous hand wheels in sequence, and the spans in between the hand wheels was made equal. I added a third hand wheel where I once thought there were only two, and fortunately it made sense to also widen main shape by 5 mm, perhaps two fixes in one if I am a little lucky.
I think, if I turn out to be a little lucky here, if extending the main shape by 1 cm in total (0.72m in 1:1), I can perhaps just extend the big floor on rear top, by same amount.
Full png file: https://ibb.co/LZHdJMX (re-re-re-re-re-re-uploaded)
Note: The German book on railway cannons, on page 160-161, have a side view plan drawing, however this looks like a concept drawing, and not the real thing, so I don't trust the measurements given. Maybe just a related project.
Same drawing, but with the other half added to show the full length of the main shape.
When switching over from Photoshop to GIMP (free) the transparency in the layers got messed up and pixels for antialised lines for the wheels got shifted. Have to clean that up later. Unsure if I want to re-work the wheel area on the carriages more, as it would probably require further changes to the kit parts, which may or may not be difficult.
So.. looking at the plan drawing on page 160-161 in that German book on Railway cannons, it is all too clear that this particular drawing is not the size of the Dora cannon. More like 81% of the Dora (or, some parts are). And clearly the shape of the top carriages look off on that drawing.
The tallest part of the ends of the main body that stretches between all the carriages, are clearly as tall as a human. When I convert the numbers given on the plan drawings in the book, that end, is merely about 81% of what was expected, and low compared to the height of a human figure, even if that human figure on the photo was as low as 160 cm tall, the end would be no taller than 160, around 155 cm.
At least the kit part on the ends, looks about the correct size, in simply assuming that the human figure is 183 cm tall.
I can't help wonder if photos possibly could have been be doctored, or if maybe they used oddly tall/low figures on some of the photos intentionally.
The quest continues to try figure this all out.
I had to start making a larger drawing, to better get to draw those numerous hand wheels along the side of the main shape.
Soon, I will get to continue and eventually finish the detail drawings needed to make the desired changes to this kit, without making a mess. 🙂 Project having been on pause for about a year now. The model itself will require some planning and changing, but it looks to me it will be fairly easy, if only a little time consuming, expecting to be re-using a lot of the kit parts. I think it will be worth it.
As for the most elaborate change, basically, the two larger parts will have to be reshaped a little, removing a lot of detaling, and re-building that detailing with styrene, starting with a flat strip of "metal plating" that goes across the whole thing on the sides which is also a base for all the numberous tiny hand wheels. From that, if placed accurate, the rest of the details will follow. I will consider 3D printing some of the numerous tiny parts, but eh, a bit expensive and doens't improve the look that much I think (the tiny round base for each hand wheel).
The tricky part is making the accurate drawing based on nothing by more or less unclear photos in a book.
For the 24 pistons on the sides, I have ordred Albion Alloy brass tubes in imperial measurement 5/32 and 3/16. This should be a nice fit, for having one cylinder fit into the other, and also fit the desired size of the pistons on the model. Didn't cost too much, at least being something affordable. One pack of each below, will do nicely.
ALBBT5 - Albion Alloys - 12" x 3/16" Round Brass Tube (3 pieces) # BT5 - £ 4.32
ALBBT4 - Albion Alloys - 12" x 5/32" Round Brass Tube (4 pieces) # BT4 - £ 3.94
I like your project. I have this baby in scale 1/35 in my stash. Do you have an idea what was used as a method of propulsion for this gun? May is be electric or perhaps a locomotive?
In my book on this subject, they seemed to have used modern looking diesel locomotives. On page 165 in this German book on railway cannons, it says D 311 locomotive. So because of the whole thing being built/assembled onto two railroad tracks, they used two or maybe four locomotives I guess, unsure if they had locomotives on both front and rear side of the cannon after it was assembled onto the train tracks.
To clarify, this project, is at this point, a 95% scratchbuild type of project. 🙂 So let's not get carried away by upvoting this project. 🙂
Project is currently on hold, because I need to scratchbuild a lot of parts using a lathe machine, which I do not currently own.
No pressure! We are here to have fun.
Reference the propulsion: Thank you for the info. I think that I have the same reference book!
March 6, 2021
Previously I have had success airbrushing on thinned varnish very thinly on to of a Humbrol Clear gloss coat.
I do not want to make 20 projects to figure all of this out, I want some high quality results sooner rather than later. 🙂
I have to say I don't bother with the airbrush for simple clear coats - a spray can gives nice, repeatable clear coats both gloss and flat.
March 4, 2021
I must remember to re-shape the barrel bags on the big turrets, as the existing bags are plain.
Well, the first set of railings I bought, had too large spacing. Hopefuly this matches better what I want. :|
March 3, 2021
Bottle #1: "Vallejo Matt Acrylic Varnish" 26.518
Bottle #2: "Vallejo Polyurethane Satin Varnish" 26.652
Bottle #3: "Vallejo Gloss Acrylic Varnish" 26.518
Q: Have I been using the wrong satin varnish bottle? It specifically says "polyurethane" and not "acrylic". Is there an "acrylic" range and also a "polyurethane" range of varnish? The differences in naming on the bottles is confusing to me, though I would have thought it to be the same'ish, but still, the bottle mentioned below has a different number still. :|
My bottle #3 also has the text "Permanent quickdrying" added to it, none of the other bottles say that.
Also, a recent Vallejo video, show their bottle of Vallejo gloss varnish, being clear liquid, mine are all white'ish. The title of the video does state "polyurethane" but no mentioning of other types of Vallejo varnish products afaik.
This video shows a different Vallejo Polyurethane Gloss varnish, numbered 26.650 (?) This bottle is seen 1 min and 46 seconds into the video.
February 26, 2021
Light Gull Gray
I don't know if there was some special gray for particulary a plane vs a ship hull.
It seems that 'intermediate blue' is also a ship color that I can use in addition to the "light" gray. Then there is a darker "sea blue" as well for the deck, presumably "USN sea blue". And then "glossy sea blue" for the seaplane.
Ok, so seeing as how "light gray" shows up a lot and "gull gray" doesn't at all, I guess it is light gray.
Looking for "deck blue" elsewhere, I think I can use Vallejo Air 71.054 "dark gray blue", which is called 867 "dark blue-gray" for the Vallejo Color range (the thicker paint).
February 25, 2021
Looks like a nice kit after looking at the box content. Fairly recent molds.
Four sheets of photo etch included in the kit box, and an anchor chain (or two, I didn't check). The four propellers are counter spinning, which is nice.
No sign of any thread rigging in the instructions, but obviously there is some for the masts, like for hanging up signal flags at least.
The plastic stand, does not fit the kit. Presumably, an easy fix is to saw the stand in half and also shorten the width by ca 2cm by removing plastic, otherwise the ship hull would just rests weirdly onto the stand.
I will buy metal barrels for the large and medium guns, and maybe go for photo etch/metal quad bofors guns, but eh I would need three boxes of 6 in them, having a few to spare.
I look forward, to airbrush the various parts separately, and glue the stuff onto the deck, to avoid having to do too much masking work.
Heh I have a liberty ship to work on, but the photo etch railings I bought aren't the ones I need, so that was not fun. Some PE for the rear side got mauled unfortunately for the Liberty ship kit I started. I will hopefully find some suitable PE railings later.
I will have to figure out how to work with a gloss coat to avoid having my Humbrol Clear gloss coat causing cracking on my painted models. An idea is to lay a first thin layer and let that harden on my kits before adding any more layers, and hopefully that might avoid the surface cracking. Otherwise I have to switch to a Vallejo or maybe Alclad gloss coat. :|
February 19, 2021
Hard to give you a hard answer, it depends on weight.
February 15, 2021
..I see cracking patterns on my models and I am not sure why that happens, but I will try again, and in the futureI will apply a light first layer, and then let that stuff dry for a couple of days, OR, add a super thin first layer and then let that dry for a couple of days, before doing anything. I guess I might as well let it dry for a week and see if cracking appears.
I hope that a thin, first layer of Humbrol Clear gloss coat that dries good, will protect the underlaying paint.
I've been reading that a thicker paint layer underneath might perhaps help against cracking, but I am not convinced that this is really so. Seems to me that even with a solid primer paint layer that dries for a week, adding a thicker layer of gloss coat on top of that also leads to cracking.
February 14, 2021
February 2, 2021
Image 99: I looked at some more clues, and with a good photo with little to no perspective distortion on a plane, I figured the width of the main halves to be pretty much 875 mm, or 12.15 mm in 1:72 scale. Also, it seems obvious now, with one photo, that the lower "connector arm" simply can't have the same angle as the upper connector arm, which could explain why I couldn't fit them symmetrically on my drawing previously.
Please see also https://forum.axishistory.com/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=230595&p=2096972&hilit=hobby+boss#p2096972 and https://forum.axishistory.com/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=225205&p=2045491&hilit=dora#p2045491 Regards
WOW! What a remarkable project!
Yes. 🙂 I lost my mojo when I had to conclude that I need a lathe machine. I will have to return to this project in the future. I think I have been able to make accurate drawings, but I don't have the will to finish this knowing I have to create lots of custom parts.
I already paid for some extra tiny hand wheels to be able to fit them all on, so that is something. The kit doesn't include all the small hand wheels. 🙂 Terribly flawed kit, not recommended in any way. Most of the kit is just wrong. HobbyBoss/Trumpeter probably did not have any scale drawings at all, and failed to recreate the design properly.
Surely if your drafting is as good as it looks, then 3D printing is the way to go. Then design a part once and print a hundred in one go. The prices of 3D printers are very affordable now and I know a few people who do remarkable things on them. This would be the perfect project.
January 16, 2021
January 15, 2021
Oh, wow, I have never had such fun building a submarine kit before. All the hull parts fit nicely.
To be picky, the propeller shaft has to be inserted into the main hull parts, and is best glued instead of rotating freely to align better.
..a jetliner kit, without any landing gear on the sprues.
I liked it, gives it a more dynamic look on the desk
January 14, 2021
Note: There is something weird with the bottom rudder on the kit. The bottom rudder is shown as being somewhat symmetrical to the top rudder, but the kit part has its hinge point further forwards, this looks wrong. So either the kit is wrong, or the Hobby Boss paint guide is. Several photos of the real submarines are shown without both top and bottom rudder, presumably they had not been added to the tail section.
Another possibility could be that the top rudder (molded onto the top hull part) is wrong, being too far aft, if assuming that top + bottom + side rudders are vertically alinged.
Or.. maybe it all is a bit top secret.
January 13, 2021
Ooh, I have some unfinished business to attend to but I am distracted by gaming atm. I have several submarines that shouldn't take too much time to finish. I don't regret buying this kit, but I thought the quality would be better.
I have so far added some styrene detailing around the insides of the platform for the launch tube hatches. I thought I could fill in the dubious grooves on the hull, but I think I will leave it as is, as the fix isn't trivial. One would think that a submarine hull would be all flush, but this one has lots of "rings" looking like large panel lines all over the sides, as if the hull was a number of cylinders linked together.
The replacement part in the box for converting this from SSBN to SSGN (guided missiles) isn't good, so I went with the SSGN setup which was what I wanted all along. I will remove the SSGN from the plastic nameplate.
I had to scratchbuild a stand of sorts for the upper part so that the large part would lie nicely on top of the submarine hull, this top piece is a large separate part (all along the lauch tube hatches on top), and if you aren't careful, you risk gluing the top part to the hull in such a way that you no longer have this drainage slit on the sides.
January 11, 2021
Note: The bottom rudder part, seems to be positioned too much forward on the kit, something one would want to fix. The assumption is ofc that the kit part position is wrong.
December 22, 2020
Perhaps a better solution could be to anneal individual parts, not try work on the whole sheet.
The problem at hand is basically: How do I flatten a slightly bent/curved pieces of photo etch?
December 20, 2020
Btw, In my limited experience, if you do not dilute the matte varnish, or apply too much of it, it turns white. I suspect I did not add enough thinner when I tried it some time ago on a tank model. I wish he had explained why there is a 4h suggested drying time between the first and the second coat of varnish. Watching more of the video now, he seem to imply that the leveling quality if better with a second pass it seems.
Argh, in my local hobby store, this kit costs some 33% more than the other Airfix kit it is based on.
December 2, 2020
seems an interesting idea.... but i am sure we can make one ourselves 🙂
November 29, 2020
November 18, 2020
Btw, reading the comments, I think the guy ended up meaning 3 + 10 drops and not 30% and 70% (which wouldn't be the same).
Thanks for sharing, very helpful!
If anybody is new to airbrushing, thinning your paint, is very important, because, not only is it important that the paint in the airbrush cup has the desired quality to it, you don't want this paint to have some random quality to it (so you must check it before you start using your airbrush, or even, before you fill the airbrush cup with this paint). The general rule seem to be, making the thinned paint look like skimmed milk in terms of consistency, so, runny and translucent.
I once tried 50% primer and 50% flow enhancer, but heh it took forever to dry and was a little sticky, so too much flow enhancer.
In this video he uses some 50% thinner to 50% paint first, and then ca 30% thinner to ca 70% paint to make the primer cover the surface better. I am not convinced that this is a good idea, but perhaps he is serious about having the first layers for spotting flaws in the surface treatment on the plastic, so maybe his goal is having on as little paint as possible, which could explain the more thinned primer paint for the first layers.
Sometimes the eyedropper bottles can have little clogs in them, sort of 'boogers'. Some people put their paint through a tea strainer, or a fine sieve, before adding it to their airbrush.
Word of warning: I always sift my Vallejo primer paint. This really was a big issue for me with the airbrush clogging up (0.35 needle airbrush). I use a small tea sift. I never know if one or more flakes of primer paint ends up in my paint mix, but with the sift, I have zero clogging issues.
Ah, lol, I wrote this before reading Martin's reply. 😄
Btw, I have trixed mixing satin and matte varnish, without knowing for sure if this was a good idea or not. I am thinking of maybe just diluting matte varnish, airbrushing it over a gloss coat.
November 17, 2020
November 9, 2020
November 8, 2020
I have to watch this
I have this one on my wishlist, so will watch with interest.
Anyone wanting to do a more accurate build, have to be very careful with the "holes" on the sides. I think the openings are placed too high on the side, such that, the bottom part of each hole should perhaps lie flush with the deck, such that water can just fall off the deck through the openings. I made the holes a little larger so that they are flush with the deck at the bottom side, but, that is just enough to make the PE fit the new opening. There is another detail to watch out for. The PE itself, on the inside of the railings, will create an edge, which shouldn't be there, as I suspect the PE placement has to match the hole, such that water can roll off the deck unhindered. My guess anyway. So I ended up making the holes a little too large, but good enough for me.
I will buy a glassfiber pen next week, so that I can gently scratch off the excessive amounts of superglue around the photo etch parts. 🙂
I want to quickly point out that, cleaning up superglue with a glassfiber pen, isn't as easy as I thought. Half the issue is actually seeing with my own eyes if I have finished ceaning up or not. Also, the pen is an abrasive and will dig into the plastic eventually it seems.
Good tip, Treehugger. I'll keep that in mind, for future reference.
That looks like a ship and a clean and sharp start on it. Count me in!
Photo 6: I was worried I had messed things up by using too much superglue, but I see now that having added a layer of primer paint, it looks like now, it is easier to clean up the excess cyanoacrylate glue, using this glass fiber pen. Ideally I should have been more careful gluing on each piece of PE by using masking tape, but too late to change that now I guess.
I am happy with the result so far, basically having worked on just the main hull part. I did so much tedious sanding that I lost interest, but looking at this now, I am very happy I spent the extra time on making the hull look smooth.
It is tempting to just airbrush on some primer, but I really have to investigate the photo etch instructions, and prepare to make it all fit, otherwise I risk ending up making mistakes by leaving plastic in place where original kit plastic should have been removed, or, failing to add required photo etch before adding the primer paint. Luckily there aren't that many things that has to be fixed before moving on. I will want to check the height of the hull sides above deck, as it looks like the photo etch railings a somewhat lower, that seems like the plastic is perhaps too tall all over the sides of the ship, have to look at photos for that and evaluate if I do something about that or just leave it as is.
I like using the 3mm Trumpeter chisel tool for cutting off plastic, especially on flat areas, as I can cut it off from the top, and not from the side like when using a sharp blade.
November 7, 2020
https://ibb.co/5Fy60Ks (image upload)
November 6, 2020