Treehugger If anybody is new to airbrushing, thinning your paint, is very important, because, not only is it important that the paint in the airbrush cup has the desired quality to it, you don't want this paint to have some random quality to it (so you must check it before you start using your airbrush, or even, before you fill the airbrush cup with this paint). The general rule seem to be, making the thinned paint look like skimmed milk in terms of consistency, so, runny and translucent.
I once tried 50% primer and 50% flow enhancer, but heh it took forever to dry and was a little sticky, so too much flow enhancer.
In this video he uses some 50% thinner to 50% paint first, and then ca 30% thinner to ca 70% paint to make the primer cover the surface better. I am not convinced that this is a good idea, but perhaps he is serious about having the first layers for spotting flaws in the surface treatment on the plastic, so maybe his goal is having on as little paint as possible, which could explain the more thinned primer paint for the first layers.
18. November, 09:59
Martin Oostrom Sometimes the eyedropper bottles can have little clogs in them, sort of 'boogers'. Some people put their paint through a tea strainer, or a fine sieve, before adding it to their airbrush.
18. November, 11:41
Treehugger Word of warning: I always sift my Vallejo primer paint. This really was a big issue for me with the airbrush clogging up (0.35 needle airbrush). I use a small tea sift. I never know if one or more flakes of primer paint ends up in my paint mix, but with the sift, I have zero clogging issues.
Ah, lol, I wrote this before reading Martin's reply.
Btw, I have trixed mixing satin and matte varnish, without knowing for sure if this was a good idea or not. I am thinking of maybe just diluting matte varnish, airbrushing it over a gloss coat.
I am excited for this WW1 submarine kit. I suspect I will not bother with the Type VII in 1:72 scale because of the lack of perforations (admittedly some other kit brand), but I like this WW1 sub in 1:72, I will probably get this:
Treehugger Anyone wanting to do a more accurate build, have to be very careful with the "holes" on the sides. I think the openings are placed too high on the side, such that, the bottom part of each hole should perhaps lie flush with the deck, such that water can just fall off the deck through the openings. I made the holes a little larger so that they are flush with the deck at the bottom side, but, that is just enough to make the PE fit the new opening. There is another detail to watch out for. The PE itself, on the inside of the railings, will create an edge, which shouldn't be there, as I suspect the PE placement has to match the hole, such that water can roll off the deck unhindered. My guess anyway. So I ended up making the holes a little too large, but good enough for me.
I will buy a glassfiber pen next week, so that I can gently scratch off the excessive amounts of superglue around the photo etch parts.
21. February, 21:44
Treehugger I want to quickly point out that, cleaning up superglue with a glassfiber pen, isn't as easy as I thought. Half the issue is actually seeing with my own eyes if I have finished ceaning up or not. Also, the pen is an abrasive and will dig into the plastic eventually it seems.
28. February, 18:18
Bozzer Good tip, Treehugger. I'll keep that in mind, for future reference.
28. February, 23:54
Christian Bruer That looks like a ship and a clean and sharp start on it. Count me in!
1. March, 19:31
Treehugger Photo 6: I was worried I had messed things up by using too much superglue, but I see now that having added a layer of primer paint, it looks like now, it is easier to clean up the excess cyanoacrylate glue, using this glass fiber pen. Ideally I should have been more careful gluing on each piece of PE by using masking tape, but too late to change that now I guess.
Treehugger I am happy with the result so far, basically having worked on just the main hull part. I did so much tedious sanding that I lost interest, but looking at this now, I am very happy I spent the extra time on making the hull look smooth.
It is tempting to just airbrush on some primer, but I really have to investigate the photo etch instructions, and prepare to make it all fit, otherwise I risk ending up making mistakes by leaving plastic in place where original kit plastic should have been removed, or, failing to add required photo etch before adding the primer paint. Luckily there aren't that many things that has to be fixed before moving on. I will want to check the height of the hull sides above deck, as it looks like the photo etch railings a somewhat lower, that seems like the plastic is perhaps too tall all over the sides of the ship, have to look at photos for that and evaluate if I do something about that or just leave it as is.
I like using the 3mm Trumpeter chisel tool for cutting off plastic, especially on flat areas, as I can cut it off from the top, and not from the side like when using a sharp blade.
Q: How does one best paint/mask a plastic name plate like this? If this was brass, no problem, but this is plastic. I mean, masking it seems overly tedious, and hand painting the top side of the lettering seems clumsy as far as methods go.
Does anybody know how to safely vent a Sil Air compressor?
I was thinking, there might be condensation inside the tank, and perhaps it might be some way to vent it.
The only visible clue I have, is some valve like thingy at bottom front, but I do not dare fiddle with it. That valve does not look like you can pull and vent, and I will not fiddle with it until I know more.
Presumably a safe way to vent, is with a tank without pressure.
4. November, 13:23
Martin Oostrom On the lower left front is a bronze screw. You need to open that once a month. Be sure to have a little pressure in the tank and a cloth handy, some muck might get out. That's the reason for opening the screw
Treehugger Ah, yes, there is some kind of vent thingy, with a ring one can pull to the side, but it sort of looks kind of high up for venting the tank, but perhaps it effectively vents out moisture somehow, even if it isn't at the bottom?
4. November, 13:58
Treehugger The compressor I have, I am confident is some Sil Air variant, but it says "Faller" on it.
The one I have looks more like the Sil-Air 20D one.
4. November, 13:59
Treehugger I eh, haven't vented that thing for a loong time. :| I did it today though, pulling that ring.
No visible muck came out though, except there being a slight oily film on the metal wall, presumably from other ventings, some long time ago.
4. November, 14:00
Spanjaard if you push upwards at the vert bottom of the air filter/regulator you can easily get the air out (at the bottom of the part in the image below) [img1]
then, you can also open the brass thing, to purge liquid from the tank
Q: Re. MicroDesign or perhaps Micro Design, maker of photo etch, I can't find the products I want. I found one online store, but I can't tell if the store is authentic or not. Anybody know more about this brand? Seems like the stuff I want is out of stock.
I sent them a message in English using some popup window, hopefully they can google for a translation.
I deleted their Facebook webpage url on Scalemates, because the link lead nowhere and I could not find Microdesign on Facebook when searching for it. Perhaps this again can be updated by others if they know they have a Facebook account.
Ugh, heh, so I got myself a cheaper Trumpeter kit of a 1:350 cruiser, but ofc, the photo etch stuff is the expensive stuff, twice as expensive.
3. November, 13:22
Treehugger Update2: So I managed to place an order on their website, but there is no English so I had to make sure I used a translator separately. I only hope that the photo etch won't get damaged, they ought to put it in a box or something. I added a message (twice) about asking for proper packaging. Payment was with Visa in my case.
3. November, 15:26
Treehugger Weird thing is, when you visit microdesign.ru, you MUST make sure you get a HTTPS website, somehow you can also end up on a different looking website without TLS/HTTPS. No idea why there is a difference. I made sure to use the url provided by Scalemates, and not typing it into the browser directly. You do not want to enter payment info into ANY website without encrypted connection to the server, and that is assuming the online store you visited was legit to begin with.
Treehugger Would be nice to have been done with the paintwork here, but I sort of think the white waterline seen in photo 15 ended up being much too thick. I am not sure this submarine have the waterline painted on normally, though the paint guide suggest as much. I used the lazy option of using the thinnest masking tape I had, which is 1 mm. Still, too wide.
11. September, 13:16
Clifford Keesler Looks good to me, but of course I don't have pictures of the actual sub.
12. September, 00:59
Treehugger I hope you like it. It is really fun getting to see results like this, as I have some ten sub kits in my stash, or more. Learning some more stuff, little by little.
Edit: Oh, I nearly fogot, I've seen a no-slip surface on the top deck on a photo, I will airbrush on matte varnish to make this look like a no-slip area. I already tried this on some other model and it looked nice.
I imagine one could add some basic weathering, like stripes going from the upper side and down towards the water, but I don't really know what to use. I guess, it is time to find a scrap model and try stuff out. I will add a gloss coat or two or three, and then a satin varnish with maybe some matte varnish mixed into it. Also, there are some decals, the propeller to be glued on, the masts, and I guess I could add some figures. Also, I nearly forgot, because I painted the sub in a lighter black, I should be able to add some black pin wash around the missile tube hatches.
12. September, 08:59
Clifford Keesler I added water stains and rust streaks to my Gato class sub using white oil paint, burnt umber and pastel chalk. Just apply a small drop of oil paint where you want the streak, and using a stiff bristle brush just stroke downward, If it is to much, just dab the brush in enamel thinner and remove most of the thinner on a rag, then repeat the downward stroke until you get the effect you want.
13. September, 21:49
Treehugger Interesting. Hm, I have this other hull I've painted, but failed to clean things up properly (USS Thresher). I guess I should look for some proper oils next week. I could use that painted model as a test/scrap model. No big deal.
Treehugger I can probably show a photo later, but I thought it was important to point out, that..
..when gluing on the parts at the rear on each side of the "legs", the two big parts that perhaps dig into the dirt, well, those part won't swivel into the fully extended position, unless you sand off some plastic on the legs. I can't find photo of this particular detail, so I just sanded the plastic thinner so that I could fully extend the eh big shovel shapes that sticks into the ground when the gun is deployed in the field. These parts are not yet shown, so not shown in photo 19.
21. September, 16:57
Treehugger After me re-filling the primer paint into the paint cup for a second session shortly after the first, even thought I cleaned the cup and flushed the nozzle with the needle in, I think some flake of primer got past my sift, or, some paint dried inside and reduced the paint flow. No issues other than, somewhat less paint flow on my second run with the airbrush after a refill and quick cleaning without disassembling the airbrush.
24. September, 15:48
Treehugger The kit parts are very nice, but the build can be difficult, so not recommended for beginners. I am finishing gluing things togehter now and completing the buid as such.
Problem #1: The shiny actuator arms, might not look that nice in the end, if the hydraulic parts are not well positioned. although the hydraulic parts are not glued very firmly in place, still, it is a tight fit, and it isn't clear to me why the hydraulic parts aren't aligning 100% towards the bottom where the actuator arms are. Luckily the shiny actuator arms are only visible from the rear, and sort of hidden at the very bottom.
Problem #2: There are two "movable" hooks of sorts glued at the front, glued in place, but supposed to be moved around in "joints". If one glue these on early before putting the "turret" onto the chassis, one of the "hooks" might get pressed down, and it should probably be above not below.
Problem #3: I don't see how you can glue everything together and still airbrush it all. I like to think I did as well as I could. For the last part, I was not able to create a seamless join, for the very base of the "turret". I had to keep these two big parts for the turret separated so that I could assemble the gun onto the "turret" base.
Note: The kit as such, have the parts molded, such that the gun has to face forwards. I guess it might be possible to mod one of the parts, such that you could move the turret, I never thought of that. Ideally one could drill out a part to have a fully rotating gun+turret part as a whole with the two shields and all swinging to either side.
23. October, 14:54
Neuling Top result with amazing attention to details! Crew wanted ................
24. October, 05:24
Treehugger Good idea. Having crew around would put the human scale into things. And thank you.
It was a fun kit to build, I am tempted to build it a second time with camo or something.
About norwegian "VOEC". VAT on e-commerce" I think it means. Afaik, a similar regulation was done by New Zeeland and Australia previously, according to an article I found.
I learned today that foreign businesses must (whatever that means) register with norwegian tax authorities for processing and collecting VAT, for e-commerce above a certain yearly total sum as I understand it (and pay norwegian tax authorities each year), and also, only for individual purchases below 3 000,- NOK. Apparently, there is already a list of registered businesses and some are Polish. I have now asked a polish online store if they have heard of this, and I have filed a complaint with local tax authorities hoping to get clarity to, if I must pay VAT to two countries, and hopefully get some money back for excess VAT. Excess VAT was 36 Euro in my case.
VOEC I suspect comes after complaints from mail services of large amount of parcels from Asia, and now from April 1. VOEC came into effect, which is to simplify VAT collection, giving the seller responsibility for collecting norwegian VAT and then no VAT is required when passing customs. But, such parcels has to be marked VOEC in some fashion I was told.
If I don't get this sorted PLASTMODEL.PL stays on my naughty list. Doesn't make sense that I have to pay some 23% extra to Poland for a purchase when I don't live in Poland. Unsure what VAT is in Poland, but it sort of looked like maybe 23% when I looked at the numbers.
I recently place my largest order ever, and paid for it, online, and I see that I have already paid VAT to the seller. I hope I am not getting screwed over here if I also end up paying VAT a second time to customs. I live in norway and things have changed, you can pay VAT in advance but only with registered sellers. I have no idea if I need to pay VAT or not at customs, I do know I should not have to pay VAT to two different countries, or paying VAT twice. Authorities seem to have an article stating that you must pay VAT regardless, and that you have to take up the problem with the seller. But, the article started by how you could contact the local customs authorities if you paid too much, but ends with ZERO obligations and ZERO hope of doing anything at all about any excess VAT payments with sellers.
16. October, 13:15
Treehugger Update: So, not only did my local mail service manage to screw up the delivery by failing to notify me of the arrival of the package, but good thing the package did arrive at the end destination, and the staff found it when looking around when asked today. Bad news, I ended up having to pay 36 Euro in excess VAT, so I have solicited for a refund from the seller, because I am sure I am not supposed to pay VAT twice.
21. October, 12:32
October 18, 2020
Treehugger Interesting. Apparently a famous WW1 submarine that sunk 3 British cruisers within an hour.
I think it looks fairly nice for being some WW1 type of military hardware.
Hrm, I thought last night, ok, now try do some modeling earlier tomorrow on Sunday..
..and then I noticed that at this time of the year and in the morning, the sun shies into my window and I can't use the blinds if I use the airbrush. So that was surprising, for a few hours of the day, no chance of airbrushing anything. Later I like playing Squad. :|
Jocaj I also have this kit in my stash. I'm following with interest.
6. October, 10:41
Treehugger I will try to get back to it soon. I have some annoyances and distractions in my life and lol although I have kit parts sort of lying around me, I want to find the time to settle down and work.
6. October, 11:47
Treehugger I can recommend this kit but without having checked the accuracy. Still, as pointed out by others, the nose has to be reshaped, which should be easy, just trim off the top side to make the nose point forwards, but maybe put some styrene on the inside to avoid sanding though the plastic. I can see myself building more than just one of this kit.
Hrm, a local online toy store went bankrupt (I checked the official national business registry today), seller gave me no idea of this other than saying that the storage location was moving. I placed an order over a week ago, and the bankrupcy work was started even before I placed and paid for the order. I will try to learn if they actually plan to ship this, and then ask my bank if they can recall the money transfer if I am not getting my order sent to me. :| The website for this online toy store is now longer active, and yields an error.
4. October, 10:04
Spanjaard you did not mentioned the shop... maybe others are in the same situation.... would be useful for them
and i suggest that you set the store to inactive, if not done already.
4. October, 10:07
scalemates ouch! I hope the goods were shipped. Otherwise this would be the same as deliberately stealing.
4. October, 10:41
Treehugger I still have hopes that they will ship my order, but I can see the risk here of not getting it.
Shop name in norway: https:www.smallsize.no
Too bad perhaps this store is a brief train trip out from the capical city. No way anyone would accidentally find it, as it lies by a train stop between Oslo and Lillestrøm.
Heh, seems I placed my order 4 work days after the registration date for the bankrupcy settlement thingy (some kind of process I think).
Treehugger I found this kit at a nice price, however, the photo etch is super pricy. I will have to invest in the photo etch later from White Ensign Models. This kit doesn't have handrails, and others say the in-box photo etch is simplified, so I will want the aftermarket stuff.
Ronan yes, except the nose ...
the shape of the nose must be modified, in this point the fujimi is better
25. September, 09:07
Treehugger Ah, I see this now. The nose on the kit seems like it is sort of pointing upwards, should be lower and maybe more pointy I guess. Hopefully an easy fix, but I should add styrene on the upper front inside, to avoid sanding through the plastic.
Hm, I also have to carve out the odd shape inside the two air intakes, I've added another layer of styrene for that.
I think I just figured out maybe the best way to progressively sand down clear parts. So, I've noticed that if you first sand horizontally and inspect the part, you would be seeing horizontal stripes, however if you sand vertically, you should see only vertical stripes. And so, it seems to me that, in order to sand things properly, you have to get to have this uniform pattern, either one way or the other, else, you would afaik still have scratches hiding under your most recent sanding, if you see both horizontal and vertical stripes. Sounds reasonable, yes?
18. September, 11:49
brianireland That does make sense. In woodworking I have the same problem, but you work from coarser to finer grits and each grit should erase the scratching from the one before. Easy to say when working with larger pieces of timber compared to smaller oddly-shaped plastic parts.
Q: Re. Tamiya primer in a tiny jar. How do I best apply this, when there is no brush in the screw cap? I've been using wooden toothpicks, but I don't like it.
I also realized I should acutally start using my Tamiya primer in a jar, instead of relying on just thicker layers of primer paint when airbrushing, after trying to clean out pits, gaps and holes with putty.
Treehugger Fun things I learned:
1) I can use two tweezers and very gently bend photo etch prop blad to make it look curved. I can also probably sand the edges sharper with some later project to get more detailing onto the propellers.
2) I have to be very careful when airbrushing smaller parts, and especially when airbrushing on metal color. Not good once things starts to become runny. :|
3) Again, it was fun adding detailing to the sail (tower).
4) I have to be more careful when cluing on large pieces of photo etch, like handrails. Tricky stuff.
5) Adding photo etch onto a curved surface is tricky, when it isn't easy for me to bend small photo etch parts properly.
6) Using chisel tools is really nice. You can both carve/slice but also turn it around and use it as a scrape.
15. September, 19:59
Marc Schnitzler Looking really nice!
You can remove the flakes with the appropriate thinner of the clearcoat, but be careful not to remove the paint underneath.
15. September, 20:06
Treehugger Interesting. I'll try keep that in mind.
Jim J Wonderful work. I really appreciate your attention to detail on the deck, sail and props. Well done. As a former submariner, I'm a big fan of the Nautilus and you've certainly done it justice. Congrats.
I have a hobby room in which I've been airbrushing in (venting outside w. spray booth), and today I cleaned the walls. All white, still. Though, there was some black dust around the air outlet up on the ceiling presumably coming from the vent system, and then there was some general yellow stuff, which might be some green, or possibly pollen. I used a dry microfiber cloth and avoiding moistening it. Total filth was low it seems and I cleaned the four walls and the white ceiling. I've noticed tiny brown dots around the apartment, which probably is insect shit.
17. September, 16:17
Treehugger I have another Bandai 1:144 falcon to build, so this one will have to wait.
Greg Baker Oh, I want to see this too. I've got one in the stash.
4. July, 14:18
Treehugger Btw, there seems to be one error in the build guide, which shows in the paint guide. There is this part 39, a small air intake on the side of the fuselage, which points the wrong way in the paint guide. As I think I've pointed out earlier, the base for the arrestor hook is such a weird part, I was lucky I could even make it fit on the model. I had fun building this model.
I made some custom things to the model:
- I added a custom clear part on both wing tips.
- I placed some black card board inside the empty engine shapes to make it look dark when looking in through the air intakes. I also used sprue good to fill the holes and then drilled it out again to make a more distinct shape on the insides.
- I thinned the wing edges I think, I could probably have thinned them more.
Treehugger You are too kind. I am happy with the overall result, but there is no weathering on this model. It is a nice kit and it was fun to build, which imo is a surprise given that this is a Revell kit.
9. September, 17:42
Gary Dahlström Hey a well-executed clean build is a thing to behold, which is why every once in a while I do a showroom auto build, if only to remember that some things in this world get washed. Anything involving the word clean around here is not an easy task with all the cat hair flying around my 'shop.
You got that radome mounted perfectly(!), and the dihedral of the stabilizers looks great. Those mods you made illustrate ur attention to detail.
I'm looking forward to my B9 project because that will be a clean build - nice n' shiny! I can't remember the last Revell kit I dove into, but I made many when I was a teen. Do you happen to know if this was an original Revell mold, or one they picked up from a defunct manufacturer?
Nice work, man.
9. September, 17:58
Treehugger This kit is apparently based off a Revell new tool kit from 2004 if Scalemates kit history is correct. I like giving things a gloss coat and a satin varnish, which makes it new, but this time I mixed matte and satin varnish which made it look a little more dull, and I suspect the varnish wasn't mixed good enough before I put the mixture into my airbrush cup.
I regained some confidence in my own masking skills after a few mishaps recently. Though, I decided against trying to fix the minor flaws with the painted props. Nobody will notice it unless they really take a loong good look. I am actually fairly happy with the result even with the minor clitch, where the outer masking tape didn't want to lie as I wanted to (not enough surface area for the adhesive I think).
I wish I would bother buying a chrome paint pen, but I just don't think I can justify such an expense if the pen maybe doesn't work 100% all the time. :| Though, I don't know for sure how well they work. I suspect they go bad after a while.
Mathijs Beenhakker @Treehugger, you're welcome sir...And may i compliment you on this very nice job you're doing on this "Dog of a Cat"
1. September, 03:16
Daniel Still no shortcuts taken! I really enjoy watching this battle!
Pic 61: You could simply sand the rear seat underside? Since those are height adjustable in the real jet I think this would be my cheap solution to this
Pic 65: This is a very, very sensible step, wish I had used that on mine...
Pic 67: How do you get around the engine parts in between?
5. September, 20:26
Gary Dahlström Love your perseverance...looking forward to your victory.
5. September, 21:19
Treehugger If I can just get the damn canopy pieces on without screwing up, I think it will end up being a nice looking model. Except the nose gear bay which will look so basic, it won't be interesting to look at, and I'll be happy I managed to get the nose wheel on in the first place. I am currently painting the cockpit. I started with glossy black primer.
I moved the whole canopy down, which made the rear seat fit. I did try to sand the base of the rear seat, but it wasn't enough. Aah, interesting about the engine parts. I checked just now and it looks like my rod will go clear, just barely, so it looks it will fit.
5. September, 21:57
Clifford Keesler I am just amazed at what you are doing with this kit. I was looking last night and figured out why I had so much trouble with my kit. The 2 prior ones I built were newer boxings, the last one I built was one of the first boxings. It had been in my stash for a long time.
6. September, 01:04
Treehugger Ooh, the figures are tricky stuff. I tried to make the look as good as I could as mere plastic figures, but masking the tiny edges is tricky. I airbrushed the black primer, green and white, but it seems it is now back and forth fixing things here and there with a tiny brush. The hands and the few details I will have to paint with a small brush. I used multiple layers of Vallejo Green Flourescent over glossy black primer, with a brush and I think it worked nicely, or ok. Still more painting to be done with the cockpit/seats/figure. I will have to add a gloss coat to the figures and seats, and add a pin wash.
When finishing a project I've been wondering if I should make a new album or not, and it occurred to me that I can just set the first album image to the first photo showing the finished model, then people get to see the finish photos right away and can still chose to easily watch the wip images from the start after that.
I think I learned something new about using 'The Army Painter' saw, for cutting into plastic when dragging the saw down through a long panel line: Best to make sure the tip digs into the start of the panel line, but keep an eye on the other end to match the panel line, to avoid the saw being angled away from the direction of the panel line.
I finally got to use some tools I had bought previously. A roll of thick self adhesive tape, that is sort of stiff, and works nicely to pull the scriber along. I also try to re-use this stuff by placing the used bit of tape, onto silk paper, so that the self adehesive glue isn't lost nor the thing discarded.
2. September, 16:49
August 20, 2020
Treehugger I think I picked the wrong day to quit waiting for somebody to make a new 1:48 scale Hind
Treehugger Finally this kit appear to be out on sale.
2. May, 13:36
Palo M Unfortunately, reviews are not great (e.g. on flory models). Might still be the best 1:48 though.
29. June, 09:41
Treehugger Probably is I would think. I saw that 'Fine Scale Modeler' on youtube had a review of this recently, but I think they forgot to show the clear parts. But ofc I've seen other reviews and I believe the clear parts are totally ok.
29. June, 09:47
Daniel I was pretty excited for this at first - but the total lack of rivets on such a heavy metal soviet machinery is a no go for me. I mean its 1:48...and its 2020
29. June, 10:25
Treehugger Given that washes are popular now, I certainly is a minus. I mean, rivets certainly helps make that kind of detailing pop up at your eyes so to speak.
29. June, 12:49
inf32den Well, lack of rivets is terrible. But zvezda positioning of this model is a "toy" (( Also they thought about an adult modelers, who knows how to riveting the model. And, of course, big range of applying aftermarket. Quinta shows the way))
I had this epiphany just now regarding re-scribing which I so far have not been good at, and which sort of scares me. I recalled what somebody else here mentioned about making rivets in plastic, by doing the riveting but then sanding over it all to remove the protruding edges around each hole, and then it struck me, for re-scribing it imo makes sense that one would also do this sanding over, after scribing to better end up with a nice loocking surface and I guess one would want a little more depth to the custom panel lines this way. Obviously, one doesn't want to sand the entire surface down, and so one can't sand too much down around each panel line either, else the entire surface becomes uneven.
13. August, 11:29
Steven Van Dyck You knew that you can also use Tamiya Extra Thin to soften the panel lines and remove dust out of them?
13. August, 20:33
Treehugger Yes, but I have to be careful, and not use too much, or it might blemish the top glossy surface I think.
14. August, 07:31
Steven Van Dyck Oh, it's that experiment where you worked after the paint stage? Then don't use the glue. I think sanding with one of those fine sticks and dry-brushing where you lost the paint are better options.
I just got my 3M "Power Tool Safety Goggles" with soft latex plastic. I wanted this for covid-19 to protect my eyes if things got crazy where I live, but I realize these will be nice when I airbrush close without my eye glasses, as I tend to get some paint particles around my eyes which stings.
Re. scribing/re-scribing panel lines. Does anyone know how to best clean up corners? Maybe switching tools? I have plenty of guides for corners/shapes but this seems like very annoying to align properly if there is an existing panel line on a plastic kit that I want to enhance and make deeper.
Re. my previous negative experience with the very first use of the Benchvent ventilator product BV300S-D:
1) It seems to me now as I have taken apart the first filter I used (I had it stored away for a long time), it looks like paint did fill 100% of the entire area for the fine particle filter at the front, which is also where the clogging happened I think.
2)My initial thought about the paint pigments being stuck at the center was wrong.
3) Still, quick clogging is apparently possible, and you don't notice it unless you check the airflow coming out of the exhaust pipe every time (I can do this, and I am doing it now to detect clogging), or change filter much quicker to be on the safe side. It seems that airbrushing on Vallejo primer and paint at 40 psi (now I use psi of 25'ish) probably was what made my first filter clog up.
4) Because of how the first filter had clogged up so rapidly, with really no air going out the exhaust pipe (ugh), I thought maybe there was a design flaw, because it looks a little funny imo when the intake inside the machine is aimed at the center but also at a small area of the filter area, and I was wondering if maybe the filter was pressing onto the filter and maybe clogging up too soon that way if clogging just a little round area in the middle of the filter.
I guess, now that I airbrush at a lower psi, probably using less paint, and when I get to check the airflow befoer every time I use it, I am happy using this spraybooth with my Vallejo paint.
If you can, I would recommend checking the airflow BEFORE you start airbrushing if, or, change the filter more rapidly because of how a filter can be clogged in about a week. The important part is that you don't want to end up with a situation in which the air doesn't get sucked out anymore because there is too much paint on the filter.
1 | 12. August, 09:14
Treehugger Small correction: I wrote..
"and I was wondering if maybe the filter was pressing onto the filter and maybe clogging up too soon that way"
"and I was wondering if maybe the exhaust pipe was pressing onto the filter and maybe clogging up too soon that way"
I just felt like suggesting this Trumpeter chisel tool, which seems so helpful, because you can use the big flat one at least, in two ways:
1) Cut off plastic by pushing the chisel into the plastic, along the surface.
2) Turn the chisel tool around, and drag the chisel tool, to scrape off plastic, in hard to get places.
I only have the big flat one, and the tiny flat one.
Bernd Korte I really like this little cargo plane and look forward to see what you make out of the kit.
1. August, 07:20
Treehugger A fun diorama could be a crashed plane, crashed in a swamp or something, but that would be way to advanced for me.
On my to-do list, I have ofc this, and some other kits on my table(s) that I should really finish, but I do I little here and there until I get to airbrush something, and then I guess I'lll queue it behind my other projects. Lol.
The most fun I have from building scale model kits is probably the sanding and cleaning up, and enhancing of details, or even adding them. Fixing glaring shape issues, isn't fun though. I lost all steam on my 1:72 Dora German WW2 railway cannon, when I figured, I had to do a 90% scratch build and buy a freaking lathe machine.
Just wanted to mention, that my old scissor had started cracking up and began to fall apart. Being a 20 year old scissor, I guess that had to happen with the plastic handle. So I bought a new scissor. First one in 20+ years. And then a week after that.. I bought another one of the same type, now I can abuse one, and keep one for the stuff that require a sharp scissor.
Q: Is there a way to make the use of riveting tools also allow for applying a pin wash later?
I imagine that the holes would have to be adequately deep or something. Also, I am not sure what to expect of an ideal riveting work in plastic. Seems like when I try with what I have, there is some distrubance on top of the surface in addition to the tiny pits in the plastic.
26. July, 21:39
Steven Van Dyck The Villalba airplane modelling book tells to sand a bit after pinwheeling. [img1]
Helmut Fraundorfer You can also use super thin cement (from Tamiya for example) to "melt" away the burrs around the "tiny pits" make sure to unload the brush attached to the lid very well before going over the rescribed areas. I usually go at it like that as it is a bit faster than sanding and there is no closing up of those "pits" with removing the burrs with cement.
Treehugger Well, shit, that is news. But, what do you think of it? I guess I am wondering just now nicely this goes down (or not). I guess the appeal might be if this could be a substitute to chrome paint, but perhaps that is wishing for too much.
23. April, 15:16
Günther Decock Hi tree bugger. I use the same brand, but the metal variant instead of chrome. It works quite well. I put some of the stuff on my finger or paper towel. Then you polish it out.
Treehugger Just a quick comment. I found that if I really need 20g nose weight as suggested in the build manual, there is no space in the nose for that I found, only being able to fit 12g inside the nose. It occurred to me that I could place a mystery box, with nose weight, in the cargo room just behind the cockpit. So with 12g in the nose, and say 15-20g behind the cockpit, maybe that would work. Hopefully the platic gear can handle this weight.
As with most of my projects these days, I do a little on each and hopefully they get finished over time, so no focused work on this.
I just learned that when cleaning up an enamel pin wash, I get bad results when trying to clean it up with a cotton bud because the fabric digs into the panel lines and removes the wash from the panel lines, but using simple tissue paper works nicely. :|
I am exicted by being able to getting a new digital camera soon, and also, I am able to use image editing software especially for improving the antialiasing in still photos, by enhancing various details as desired, softer or more crisp, by switching between sampling filters when re-scaling a large photo down into what ends up being a smaller jpeg image.
Other fun stuff one can do with this software: color correction, effects, text, compositing work.
I should be set up for showing much better photos. I will have to consider arranging some special lighting or background setup for models. In addition to lighting, maybe some special background, or maybe just some black or white, or gray ground sheet.
5. July, 09:57
Urban Gardini Nice and you should also look into stacking as that is a great tool for stills. Looking forward to seeing your nice builds in even better quality!
As for taking photos, I think it is a good idea to firstly take appealing photos, which might mean taking a step back, or two, to avoid showing the flaws. And then a separate range of photos showing details with warts and all.
5. July, 11:22
Urban Gardini Stacking is several photos with different focal depth that is merged together thus creating a photo that is in focus all the way.
5. July, 14:25
Rui S @Urban, Thx for that info Mate. I never knew about stacking.
Danny Meer I'm using a Canon D700 and really love it. It's nice to have a touchscreen that you can also flip in all directions. Have 3 lenses with it. And atm as a second hand you can get them at a very nice price.
I am not 100% sure what I want, but I have my eyes on another pocket camera (Panasonic Lumix DMC-TZ100), which should have a much better sensor than the one I have now (Fujifilm FinePix JZ700).
This TZ100 camera has a RAW mode which should be great for making the best photos, compared to my old camera which only saves photos as JPEGs. The TZ100 also allows you to change the point of focus, after you have taken a photograph.
3. July, 22:37
Rafael Lang RAW are always the best option to photos! and the lenses, what are her focal lengths? she was good with macros?
4. July, 00:16
Rafael Lang I must confess that I haven't seen a camera review since I bought my Nikon D7000, even though it's time to buy a new one because it's already out of date for work!
4. July, 00:17
Treehugger I know there are good cameras around, but I personally have a budget limit and somehow I can't justify paying too much for a camera, no matter how good it is. The "new" camera has 'optical image stabilizaztion' which sounds nice, and 4k video (stereo sound, but no microphone jack).
4. July, 10:25
Treehugger To answer your questions. I don't think this TZ100 camera has exchangable optics, so all built into the camera being a small'ish pocket camera. It has a macro mode for close up photos. A reviewer points out some possible limitaitons in the settings for professionsal, but I have to re-check that.
As for focal length, a review highlights the following:
25-250mm f/2.8–5.9 lens
4. July, 16:35
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