scale modeling database | stash manager



Q: Does anybody know what this DSPIAE tool is even for?

I thought at first it was for sanding, but now I am confused. I thought maybe there was some sanding paper to be attached, but I can't find any info on this.

Product name: Dspiae ES-S "Etching Sheet Sanding Bored Set"

[img1] (image upload)
1. October, 07:51
You attach the sanding paper to them, DSPIAE sells the sanding paper with adhesive in the back. you just neee to cut it
Youtube Video

1. October, 10:35
Oh, ok. Thank your for the feedback! 🙂

I even looked really hard for the stuff at their brand store, but couldn't find it. I'll try again.
1. October, 11:51
I just pasted "Etching Sheet Sanding Bored Set" in Youtube 🙂
1. October, 13:00
Well, thanks for contributing.
1. October, 16:06
Tini Hendriks
I use them, satisfied about it, you can sand with great force on a very small place. They are a bit thick (I have very thin ones from Gunze). There are also pre-shaped sandpaper holders of DSPIAE. I have one where you can put the sandpaper in a 90 degrees L holder. Also a nice tool

14. October, 18:12
I have yet to watch all of this (Genesis Models Youtube channel), but I thought this video about 3d printing was interesting: LCD based 3d printing?

Edit: Hm, looks like the end result is still not yet completely smooth though, but perhaps good enough.

Youtube Video

14. October, 08:34

October 11, 2021

Warning. My favourite hobby store in Asia has recently put up a big red warning re. credit card payment.

They explain the issue at their store (which afaik uses TLS encryption), and links to a Microsoft webpage warning and explanation, dating back to september, which seems to sketch up an attack vector from spoofed emails (fake emails) and presumably people visiting or having downloaded something after reading email. I won't claim to understand this. Seems I am ok though, but (and as I understood it) the store warning says that he thinks fraudulent credit card transactions happened the last month, and seems to say that people impacted by this have been warned by their banks, with the effect of credit cards being frozen.
11. October, 06:02

October 9, 2021

I'm hopping on this one or I will try to, taking imo a risk with some new things like 3d printed parts + resin. Hopefully the clear parts look good. Stuff is also in production so afaik nobody has gotten their kit yet.
1. August, 08:43
Cool, big beast in 1:32. Will defenitely follow
30. August, 15:41
According to LSP forum, some people have recently gotten their kit from the first batch run. I placed an order for the second batch, and the second batch is said to start deliveries in Jan 2022 iirc.
30. August, 18:24
G.F Constantine
Have been told mine will be towards mid-late October. Cannot wait.🙏 Looks like a lot of prep work with parts separation and cleanup, but detail looks fantastic. Clear resin looks good....may try to make a vacuform if I'm not ecstatic over the canopy. All time favorite Jet.
7. October, 19:33
I think I learned recently that the resin, was said to be specifically uv resistant to some degree as an improvement to plain resin as I understand it, such that the clear resin doesn't yellow that easily, but I think it maybe was said that one ought to not keep the model in direct sunlight, like I guess, just next to a window.

The large resin parts, are hollow parts afaik, so no solid blocks of heavy resin.

I will try clean up the 3d printed parts a little, by a combination of scraping, sanding and adding diluted vallejo putty that self level, but have poor filling power. I honestly don't know how this will turn out, but I think I can improve on the 3d printed parts, as they obviously aren't as smooth as typical injection moulded plastic.

My initial impression from looking at the photos other's have shown, I am glad I hopped onto this. I think I will make either a metal skin Viggen, or, maybe, a white colored one.
8. October, 09:55
G.F Constantine
Yeah, if I had two(😍) I would do a splinter camo for sure, but since I get one shot at this it, will be the more typical(but worn and weathered) two tone grey scheme. The 3D parts really do look quite nice. It will be a blessing if the resin doesn't involve those really heavy duty casting block connections.
8. October, 18:45
Erik No
Since last week there is an unboxing video, is already linked here under the kit. Looks great, especially the tail is awesome.

What I don't like is that, for example, the fuselage parts are supposed to be butt glued. I'm also worried about the landing gear. I question if the printed parts will safely support the weight?

I have no idea when mine will arrive, but I'm excited as hell. 😄
No question, it must be the splinter camo! The masks from DN-Models are already here. 😉

9. October, 10:30
I think I remember that the devs said that they tested the weight of the landing gear, and iirc they tested with something like an additional kilo of weight before the landing gear finally gave in.

As for the fuselage parts, I think I might explore using custom guide pins, to avoid stressing with the work of gluinging the big parts together, and maybe reinforcing the glue work this way by adding guiding pins, to avoid simply gluing two butt sides together (no idea if the glue could ever come undone. I think super glue is bad against shear forces, so if you bump a model into a table, perhaps two previoulsy glued parts might snap off each other.

Heh, I learned recently that, if you press two parts together, gluing with super glue, it goes hard surprisingly fast, probably because the surface area of the glue becomes thin as opposed to being a ball of liquid. I will make sure to never ever use a large blog of superglue, unless, the two parts are already in good contact (as if relying on capillary reaction for the glue to seep inwards).

I wonder how super glue debonder will react to resin (!). Seems to me that, debonder will soften injection moulded plastic (which is unfortunate).
9. October, 13:04

September 22, 2021

Dear Trumpeter..

Stop ruining the portholes on your ship kits by being so lazy and moulding the port holes horizontally, surely you must know that this is not how geometry works if you want to create circular port holes. The excavation of a solid must happen perpendicular to the angled surface, not just horizontally with the water surface. Ovals and circles are really two different things.

Having to fix ship kits is really starting to get annoying.
22. September, 13:52
So it has come to pass: I finally managed to end up ordering the same product, twice, each in different stores. 😠

Luckily, it was a minor photo etch set (1:700 supercarrier parts). 🙂
22. September, 09:13

September 20, 2021

Q: If I buy some extra 'Tamiya Extra Thin' cement bottles, how long could I keep it in store, without the glue doing bad? Years on end? Or?
16. September, 17:40
Alec K
Few few years, easy. It does slowly evaporate, so its a matter of how much dissapears. Make sure cap is on tight and keep in cool dark place.
20. September, 13:22
Q: Would a lacquer thinner liquid act as a cleaning solvent, or would it go hard or leave residue if drying inside the airbrush?
20. September, 09:51
Alec K
I have been using lacquer thinner as an airbrush cleaner for a long time with excellent results. Never noticed any residue.
20. September, 13:04

September 17, 2021

Treehugger marked this item as on order
1:48 US Ordnance Set 1 (AvantGarde Model Kits 88E01)
US Ordnance Set 1
AvantGarde Model Kits (AMK) 1:48
88E01 2019 | New tool Multi-topic (13)
17. September, 19:03
Treehugger marked this item as on order
17. September, 18:56
Well, about time I got myself one of these.
17. September, 19:02
Treehugger wants this item
17. September, 18:58
Crap, I forgot to include this in my latest order. 🙁
17. September, 19:01
Treehugger marked this item as on order
17. September, 19:01
Treehugger wants this item
1:48 F-15C MSIP II (Academy 12221)
F-15C MSIP II Special Edition
Academy 1:48
12221 2010 | Changed parts
17. September, 16:54
Q: Do all cyanoacrylate debonder liquid soften the plastic? I think I saw that the plastic got ugly when I tried my CA debonder liquid some time ago.
17. September, 14:06

September 16, 2021

The Vallejo airbrush cleaner liquid bottle, is annoying me. Seems like a lot of drops are spilled because of the crude pop-up-cap solution, I will want to try find a lab bottle online with a pointy dispenser, but it ought to have some kind of cap that I can put onto the opening so the liquid inside doesn't stink, nor evaporate.
16. September, 17:46
Nobody, except for one firm in Netherlands seems to be selling a wash bottle that has a cap on it. Well, except something on ebay which I don't like the design of. 🙁

I thought maybe Vallejo sold some some kind of dispenser accessory but I couldn't find anything, it would be important that the bottle tip had a removable/attachable cap, else the cleaning liquid would probably just stink up the place without a cap on.
16. September, 18:17
Treehugger added a new photoalbum.
3 images
View album, image #3
Re. the cannon barrel, I airbrushed on black matte primer and sanded it off again to get an idea if there were areas wit...
2 | 12. September, 14:12
Giant howitzer approaching 👀
12. September, 15:30
One of my many work-in-progress stuff I'm afraid. I do hope to "finish" my CB-2 Guam ship in 1:350 by new year. Just have to eh figure out my overly complicated photo etch railings idea.
12. September, 17:15

September 15, 2021

I will admit 1:18 scale would be very nice. Bandai's 1:48, just isn't large enough in some sense. 🙂 (I have that one in 1:48).
1:18 Star Wars X-Wing (DeAgostini Model Space )
Build Your Own
Star Wars X-Wing (100 Pack Partworks Kit)
DeAgostini Model Space 1:18
2021 | Changed parts
15. September, 16:17

September 14, 2021

Treehugger wants this item
14. September, 16:36

September 13, 2021

Q: Are all cyanoacrylate glues UV sensitive for rapid curing, or is there only select types of products for such rapid UV curing of the cyanoacrylate?

Btw, UV curing equipment sounds dangerous, but I know next to nothing about such tools.
12. September, 19:38
Ingmar Stöhr
No, they are not UV sensitive - to my knowledge. The standard cyanoacrylate uses OH-Ions from the moisture in the air to harden.

UV sensitive glues have special ingredients, that will react to the UV light. There are weak lights, that need no protection. There are stronger lights, where you should protect your eyes and there are very strong lights that you should not get on your skin.

How dangerous UV light is strongly depends on the wavelength (A, B, C Type) and the power. UVA is relatively save but causes skin aging and can cause cancer. UVB will cause sunburn and cancer if your get to much and UVC is even worse.
13. September, 04:50
Hm, says here 365 nm wavelength, assuming that is correct. This is the product that shines the uv light. Apparently UVA rays. I will try find some more information about it, it is probably for curing glue but I am not 100% sure.

Edit: A youtuber points out that such uv light should be used with basic protection like uv glasses which makes good sense I think. In addition to inadvertently looking at the uv light, I suspect the uv light can also bounce around back into your eyes, which according to some other guy on youtube, says your eyes won't notice the wavelength and will eventually take damage.

Btw, another concern of mine, is keeping all these battery powered thingies around in my apartment. I guess the only concern are those cheapest 18650 batteries with no safety circuit built into them and other such cheap products that may be sub part in terms of safety.

Btw, I noticed the other day this interior car monitoring system (cameras) product which supposed uses capacitors and not batteries for its remote use, presumably rechargeable, unless I misunderstood things. Sounded strange though, as if capacitors replaced batteries.
13. September, 06:20
Ingmar Stöhr
To use protective glasses is no bad idea. I personally would not worry about reflection (if it is not a very powerful device). The reflections will be very, very weak and should be no concern.
An your eyes will definitely not notice and react to the UV light. And always keep in mind, that during a walk in the sun you also get a lot of UVA radiation - often without protection.
13. September, 08:09

September 12, 2021

I have learned to love a sharp blade as opposed to a dull one, so next time I will order 100 X-Acto blades. 🙂

I have tried to sharpen the dull ones, but I haven't been able to do so consistently, maybe I could try it again.
12. September, 19:47
Re. "DSPIAE Magnetic Paint Mixer"

Anyone familiar with this presumably new product? Doesn't seem to have moving parts, and I don't know how it is supposed to work.
1 | 11. September, 14:40
View full thread (15 Comments)
Interesting, looks as a technique from labs, let us know your experience 👍
12. September, 07:16
One objection/concern, is the apparent lack of a regulator, it seems to me that maybe this product has one speed only. I guess I should check and see if the product has a regulator for the speed, or not. I guess, if crazy fast then, I guess one would want to maybe limit the time used mixing the paint.

Looking at the vortex pulling in air maybe, looks imo a little weird, maybe not the best for paints I am thinking, but maybe the effect of this is marginal. I vaguely remember someone pointing out in a video that, shaking the bottles upside down, mixes air with the paint, suspecting the mixing method changes the consistency of paint. And it if doesn't do it once, then maybe repeated mixes might, but heh maybe not.
12. September, 08:55
I've seen a review of this product, that tried metal balls. That review suggested that rod vs balls was a draw, but precise placement of the paint bottle on the device was more important to a good mix. Interesting to see how you get on long term.

12. September, 09:26
I was thinking, it is not possible to see inside a Vallejo paint bottle. So, when I get one, I would want to cut a couple of bottles open and fill it with liquid and see how the rods are spinning, given that the bottom of those bottles aren't like smooth glass. Ideally I could try find some more gooey liquid, but I don't know what that could be, or I could perhaps sacrifice some amount of primer paint from one of my large bottles. I wouldn't be able to see the moving piece though with primer paint, but I could at least get a visual on any swirls on the top side, then use water to see how the metal parts actually spins around.
12. September, 10:11
In the website they seem to indicate ("seem" because it is the Chinese version, and you can not use google translate with images....) that you need a flat bottom. Also, it seems obvious that if there is a bump in the bottom, the distance to the magnets increases and it may be less effective. Also the rod may not spin so freely.
In one review the guy complained about how the switch of the dspiae works. I believe there is no speed regulation. either is full power with usb connection, or lower speed with batteries.

It may be possible to use a variable power supply using USB cable. Then you can have different voltages and different settings. But in that case, better build the complete thing, I think.
12. September, 13:25
Treehugger added a new project.
1 | 12. September, 12:26
I am just looking over the parts, as usual when getting a new kit, doing some easy clean up stuff while listening to youtube videos.

I think this will be a fun and no stress project adding wiring. 🙂

I've started to change the barrel shape a little, to have a metallic inner part that presumably recoil into the cannon when fired, will use self adhesive metal foil for this area. Doing basic clean up work on the wheels and track links. This kit imo does not properly show the inner part of the barrel, so I want to fix that. Photos show the inner part of the barrel having a shiny part, so presumably the barrel recoil into the housing part when fired I am thinking.

The kit comes with two sets of actuator arms, and can show the barrel pointing forwards, or, tilted upwards into the sky, both at set angles. This can be switched without gluing anything. Ofc, the aftermarket photo etch is only enough for one set of actuator arms, not both sets.

Will eventuall paint the wheels with the white parts here and there, which I guess is ceremonial.

The housing for the two actuator arms are not the same size, this seems bizarre, but apparently looks like this on some photos (but not the box art). Ofc, photos and/or box art might have been mirrored at some point.
12. September, 12:28

September 10, 2021

I just realized that I can keep the environment a little more cleaner. Instead of cleaning my sanding sticks under tap water in the kitchen, I will use a small spray bottle and keep the goo away from the sink/sewer.
10. September, 08:26
Treehugger wants this item
10. September, 08:19
Treehugger wants this item
10. September, 08:14

September 9, 2021

Treehugger owns this item
1. September, 10:16
Major Flannel
9. September, 10:02
Q: Why do I see Royal Air Force roundels, with either 'blue+red dot' OR 'blue+white ring + red dot'? One kit has both options for a 1945 build. Is maybe this type of coloring region specific?
1 | 7. September, 12:29
Major Flannel
Blue super-imposes the white in -both- world wars (Home defence night fighters in ww1) for low-vis purposes. After the end of ww2 in August, RAF reverted to its blue, white circles and red dot and there are several types and dimensions of each 'ring'. There was a narrow yellow outside ring on some ww2 roundels.

Rudder flash btw was reversed to red white blue from the original french blue white red (from port side) in 1934.
Good question : )
9. September, 10:01

September 8, 2021

Treehugger wants this item
1:72 Mi-26 (Microdesign 072260)
Mi-26 exterior for Zvezda 7270
Microdesign 1:72
072260 201x | New tool
8. September, 07:51

September 7, 2021

Treehugger wants this item
1:144 Ilyushin-62M (ICM 14406)
Ilyushin-62M German Air Force Passenger Aircraft
ICM 1:144
14406 2015 | Changed decals
7. September, 13:43
Treehugger wants this item
7. September, 13:42
Hm, seems like, kit makers are now simplifying tracks making them look less realistic. I've seen this with metal tracks for Panda Hobby kit, and here too in plastic, instead of having an intermediary joint part between two track parts, there's eventually just one track part glued to the other, with the intermediate part moulded onto the track parts, which afaik is not realistic.
7. September, 13:17

September 6, 2021

Btw, I counted the track links. 12 sets of 18, for a total of 216, or 108 on both sides. Build guide states the kit requires 101 track links on each side, so there is apparently 7 spare track links on each side. 🙂

The tracks are not moving and have to be glued in place. No ejection pin marks what so ever. There are four stubs for each track link that has to be cleaned up.
6. September, 09:51
Treehugger owns this item
6. September, 08:44
Treehugger owns this item
6. September, 08:36

September 4, 2021

Treehugger added a new photoalbum.
132 images
View album, image #132
Oof. The photo etch railing works seems super complicated. I made this jig instead for now, for the 38 x 50 cal machine ...
29 | 12. March, 10:45
View full thread (64 Comments)
I thought I would add some oils later on. Hm, now that I think about it, maybe going for totally smooth a paintjob might not be entirely necessary, I never thought about this.

I will airbrush on 'intermediate blue' on the sides, and add the light gray on top of sides later when I get to add the railings. I'll also add the black strip that probably runs right in the middle of what I think might be a torpedo belt armor on the sides. In preparation for the 'intermediate blue' color, I have sanded the whole thing smooth. I managed to create the waterline pretty much spot on I think, so that at least I am very happy with.
19. August, 17:07
Clair Greenwood
Yes a totally smooth paint job, while pleasing to the eye on a model, is not how ships really looked. They were painted by sailors or yardmen with buckets of paint and brushes usually. Im sure you can imagine the different amounts of color in sections being painted by many guys who just wanted to get done. 🙂
19. August, 17:55
David Taylor
Patience is definitely paying off Treehugger.
19. August, 18:26
Looking closer, after having added the thin bit of strip styrene all along the top edge of the deck there were so many gaps and tiny pits, took a while to go over them. I think I fixed maybe 95% of them.

I am glad I did this extra work, as I learn to just take my time trying to fix things by a little bit of patience.

Uuh, I forgot to mention it, but I will add another layer of red there, and THEN add the black line. I hope I don't forget that order. 🙁
19. August, 20:29
Oof. I think now I must make a plan, a DRAWING , planning out how I can divide the longer photo etch railings, such that the railings best can mist with the existing details. It seems unrealistic to think I can just fiddle with this long PE railing and also mix it into the various details that require modification to the photo etch. :|
4. September, 19:10

September 3, 2021

Oh, ok. This model is a waterline model, and as such, does not have the bottom part included.
3. September, 11:57

September 1, 2021

Treehugger owns this item
1. September, 09:54
To my surprise, this is not a large kit box. The huge barrel fits in the box by itself so I guess that explains why there wasn't this huge box. 🙂
1. September, 10:22
Treehugger owns this item
1. September, 09:55
Treehugger owns this item
1:144 Boeing B-52H (Academy 12622)
Boeing B-52H 20th BS "Buccaneers"
Academy 1:144
12622 2021 | New tool
1. September, 09:54

August 29, 2021

Treehugger marked this item as on order
29. August, 10:52
Delivery is according to an email is said to be starting January 2022. This is the second batch btw.
29. August, 10:53
Not sure but it seems like these figures maybe have to be bought from their website: http://reedoak.com
29. August, 08:07
I thought I should just carefully point out that, although the box art for the 1:48 looks the same as the newer one in 1:72, a modeler should must know that they are entirely different kits.
29. August, 05:41

August 28, 2021

Tip: I just noticed that other people came up with this neat solution below for easily having ship turrets with shiny metal on them (the part that presumably recoil into the structure I guess).

They painted the brass barrel EXCEPT for the shiny bit, which was masked off. 🙂

[img1] (image upload)
1 | 28. August, 13:05

August 22, 2021

Tip: If you have metal tools, you can use them to create more metal tools. For example, I needed a narrow chisel, but there was no such product to be found. So I bought a second 1mm chisel, and use a metal file to grind it down to a thinner bit. 🙂 I do not have power tools for this, so I had to use various hand held metal files.
22. August, 12:48

August 21, 2021

I wonder if these were also military busses. I vaguely recall seeing something similar in the movie "We were soldiers". Could ofc have been some other bus brand.
1 | 21. August, 20:07
Felt like making a meme: [img1] (image upload)
2 | 21. August, 18:33
Q: Does anybody know if Vallejo Airbrush Cleaner liquid cleans up lacquer paint?
21. August, 05:55
Roland Gunslinger
No, that doesn't work. That's why I use different airbrushes for different types of paint.
21. August, 06:31

August 19, 2021

Q: Are there airbrushes that are designed to work the best with say 20 psi or the like?

I vabuely remember reading something like that. Reason for asking: I have the Iwata HP-CS Eclipse, but its optimal psi is rather high iirc, iirc much more than 20 psi. I often get the sense that the airflow is too low when airbrushing at 20 psi with my Iwata airbrush, I thought maybe other airbrush models might have distinctively different performances, overlooking what is best for just detail work.
19. August, 16:11
Thomas Bischoff
probably you only need a smaller nozzle?
19. August, 16:32
Oh, ok. So my current needle/nozzle setup is 0.35. I also have one custom sized 0.50, but I never get to use it.

My crude understanding of airbrush variants, is that the smaller ones are 0.20 nozzles and maybe 0.15, but unsure.
19. August, 17:05
Thomas Bischoff
I use almost always a 0.2 nozzle - works well with 20psi
19. August, 21:44
Thank you for the feedback! 🙂
19. August, 21:58
Treehugger added a new photoalbum.
21 images
View album, image #21
Although I was bummed out seeing my Humbrol Clear (gloss coat) ending up with cracking patterns all over, I have sanded ...
10 | 7. March 2020, 15:15
19. July 2020, 22:34
Ben M
me too.
9. September 2020, 18:38
Would be nice to have been done with the paintwork here, but I sort of think the white waterline seen in photo 15 ended up being much too thick. 🙁 I am not sure this submarine have the waterline painted on normally, though the paint guide suggest as much. I used the lazy option of using the thinnest masking tape I had, which is 1 mm. Still, too wide.
11. September 2020, 13:16
Clifford Keesler
Looks good to me, but of course I don't have pictures of the actual sub.
12. September 2020, 00:59
I hope you like it. 🙂 It is really fun getting to see results like this, as I have some ten sub kits in my stash, or more. 😄 Learning some more stuff, little by little.

Edit: Oh, I nearly fogot, I've seen a no-slip surface on the top deck on a photo, I will airbrush on matte varnish to make this look like a no-slip area. I already tried this on some other model and it looked nice.

I imagine one could add some basic weathering, like stripes going from the upper side and down towards the water, but I don't really know what to use. I guess, it is time to find a scrap model and try stuff out. I will add a gloss coat or two or three, and then a satin varnish with maybe some matte varnish mixed into it. Also, there are some decals, the propeller to be glued on, the masts, and I guess I could add some figures. Also, I nearly forgot, because I painted the sub in a lighter black, I should be able to add some black pin wash around the missile tube hatches.
12. September 2020, 08:59
Clifford Keesler
I added water stains and rust streaks to my Gato class sub using white oil paint, burnt umber and pastel chalk. Just apply a small drop of oil paint where you want the streak, and using a stiff bristle brush just stroke downward, If it is to much, just dab the brush in enamel thinner and remove most of the thinner on a rag, then repeat the downward stroke until you get the effect you want.
13. September 2020, 21:49
Interesting. Hm, I have this other hull I've painted, but failed to clean things up properly (USS Thresher). I guess I should look for some proper oils next week.🙂 I could use that painted model as a test/scrap model. No big deal.
13. September 2020, 21:51
Clifford Keesler
There you go, good idea.
13. September 2020, 21:58
Oh, wow. I just learned that Infini has a nice file product called "Diamond Taper File 3Way System (Narrow)". Apparently really small and thin flat files. I must buy this somewhere. 🙂

Product number: ICT-0007, or, ICT0007.

Update: Ah, ok. I see now a little later that this seems to be a preorder item, so I guess a brand new type of item.

Also, I learned a new word today: HIPS or high-impact polystyrene.
17. August, 10:17
Alec K
17. August, 13:30
This product is now, no longer a pre order item it seems, and can be ordered as usual. I guess, whenever I see a 'preorder' item in a store, the store owner expect the item to be stocked for sales shortly after.
19. August, 17:17
Treehugger owns this item
19. August, 11:53
Treehugger owns this item
19. August, 11:52
Time to buy some incense sticks to check the airflow of my spray booth.

The airflow pumped out is still strong, but I never have a good idea how far out the spray booth sucks air in. I wish I had a larger spray booth, a more powerful one.
19. August, 08:36

August 13, 2021

Q: Does anybody know if there are any 1:72 M2 .50 cal machinegun barrels in metal, made by anybody? I can't find any. (Intended for use with WW2 bomber turret armament)
13. August, 13:22

August 11, 2021

Oh, wow I had no idea such a product existed for 1:350 bofors guns. 🙂
11. August, 13:34
All these flies around my place is so annoying, but I finally learned to catch each one very quickly. Use one hand to distract the fly at it sits somewhere 15 cm off, wiggling my fingers, then use a jar on the other side sneaking up on the fly. Fairly easy catching flies that way now, releasing them outside.

I've caught something like 15 flies today. Some of they goof back into the apartment via an open window. :|
10. August, 13:07
David R. Meizoso
Live and learn 🙂
10. August, 13:35
Thomas T
You are collecting 'karma-scores' 😉
10. August, 16:47
We have fly wire in Australia to stop them coming in the window but most importantly to stop mosquitoes.
It would be awful without it
10. August, 18:50
Somewhat unrelated, but I thought I'd show it anyway: Going camping, there are these "flies". Bites into your skin, fairly aggressive. Though some are gentle, unnoticeable, like the one on my arm here: https://www.reddit.com/r/camping/comments/omsizp/surprisingly_annoying_when_camping_chrysops/
11. August, 09:24
Looks like Revell has some competition in the 1:144 scale, but ofc I guess Revell aren't making their Type VIIc's anymore.
11. August, 09:03

August 8, 2021

This is bullshit, my compressor is rusty I think, it is leaking oil and can't keep pressure. 🙁 Damn seller gave me a manual in German, which didn't help.

Well, either it is leaking oil from the bottom or the oil comes from me pulling the emergency valve thingy to test it, which releases some oil apparently, which may have run down to the bottom plate on the underside. But I can't find the location of the leak by listening to the hiss sound. 🙁
8. August, 17:55
Update: Hm, If I turn the adjustable air pressure air valve, there is no leakage. So.. I've always had the habit of just turning the know around, never using the lock function. The adjustment knob, can be pressed down by a snapping sound, locking it, I never used it, as I never thought it would be necessary.

Update 2: So, there is something leaking around the adjustment valve but I can't feel it, just hear it, and pressure gauge indicator show dropping pressure from 6.5 Bar(max).

So, the thing leaks when I turn the adjustment valve up from minimum (below 10 psi) to 20. If I adjust further, to 30 psi (as if I wanted to airbrush with 30 psi), then the compressor leaks more air than it puts back in.
8. August, 18:06
Dark Master
I always empty my tank when I shut it off, mine had a bad hose connection between the tank and the compressor itself. I fixed it with some tungsten tape
8. August, 18:08
Q: Does anybody know if this thing inside the moisture trap is supposed to be dried, or must it remain wet? Apparently the parts inside the moisture trap were wet:


So, the thing leaks when I turn the adjustment valve up from minimum (below 10 psi) to 20. If I adjust further, to 30 psi (as if I wanted to airbrush with 30 psi), then the compressor leaks more air than it puts back in.
8. August, 18:38
Mike Siemers
The trap should be dry, if there's moisture in it that means there's water in the tank. First drain the tank, there should be a drain valve on the bottom. Then mix up a little dish soap and water and then brush that around the connections and if you see bubbles you know where the leak is.
8. August, 18:44
Dark Master

check every hose between compressor and tank (I have 2). Maybe one of them isn't sealed. That was my case. I also didn't feel the air blowing but could hear it. I just randomly detached them to find out wich one is it
8. August, 19:33
I might try the soap trick.

I already drained the tank with the screw at the very bottom of the air tank, not a drop came from it or perhaps I remember it wrong, perhaps it was a little moist at least. I had ofc safely emptied the tank of air beforehand.

Hm, so.. on reflection, I never knew how to use the moisture trap, or, I never thought there was any moisture in it, I never saw moisture in the trap, make me never pressing the release valve in plastic at the bottom of the moisture trap.

I've tried to dry the filter, presumably I have to buy a new one. This filter looks yellow, looking sort of oily, but perhaps it was yellow all along. But, I tried to empty the moisture trap repeatedly, and I saw drops forming on the inside, but perhaps that is just some pressure drop or something. Not sure how to think about this. :|

Still, the compressor leaks air when I turn the adjustment valve. Hm, maybe there is a faulty seal there or something.

I sent Faller an email, hopefully they can make sense of my email explaining my observations.
8. August, 20:08

August 6, 2021

Treehugger added a new photoalbum.
2 images
View album, image #2
One never really knows for sure if plastic parts fit as intended after being glued together, but this tower seems to fit...
4 | 5. August, 19:38
Just doing some trivial stuff while getting motivated to work on super fiddly photo etch for this other WIP project. 🙂

The entire top deck has to be grinded with a power tool, to create a shallow cavity, so that the perforations in the photo etch deck have some space beneath it. I will use a small handheld electrical drill for this, I think it will work nicely, but I haven't done something that major before. At least, there is little chance of things going wrong with that.

The reason I bought this kit is that I could make these perforations. 🙂 I will add a large piece of shaped black cardboard inside, to block the visibilty, mimicking the pressurised hull parts on the inside. I think it will look nice in the end.
5. August, 19:39
Looking at photo #2, there are a nice amount of photo etch parts there. I realized that I had to check if the plastic tower fit the photo etch. It seems the photo etch matches the deck, leaving a tiny gap in between the deck edge, and the tower structure itself. Unsure if this gap has to be made flush or not.
6. August, 09:19
Robert Podkoński
If this is a trivial stuff, what do you call a challenge? Following with amazement 🙂
6. August, 09:23
Compared to the 1:350 CB-2 Guam kit, this 1:144 sub model seems small and trivial. 🙂
The charm of this uboat is imo the ability to drill out all the holes, it really give added detailing and depth, and the photo etch deck, with some space beneath it carved out from the plastic deck, should look stunning in the end I think.

Edit: I've created and added the photo etch product (SKU-090), somehow it wasn't already listed on Scalemates. :|

I vaguely recall having some difficulty finding this kit on sale. I think I got mine 3-4 years ago, and then I found RC subs' photo etch stuff at some point after that. 🙂

This is my 3rd kit of this type, having built one already, the Type VIIc/41. I have a spare VIIc/41 kit as well unbuilt.

The photo etch railings leaves something to be desired, they are flat not rounded, maybe some paint or liquid vallejo putty can help round off the flat PE railings.
6. August, 09:33
Robert Podkoński
And all these activities are piece of cake...😄 Chapeau bas, Treehugger!
6. August, 09:45
Bart Goesaert
Enjoy the build
6. August, 10:58
looking interesting 🙂
6. August, 11:37
Treehugger started this item
6. August, 09:55

August 4, 2021

Treehugger started this item
4. August, 19:51
Treehugger added a new project.
In progress
1:144 German Submarine Deutsches U-Boot Type VII C (Revell 05038)1:144 Set for Type VIIc 1:144, for Revell 05038 & 05675 (RC Subs SKU-090)
4. August, 19:50
Aargh. I have a nice electrical micro engraver tool (2x AAA), but I can't find the damn tiniest hex key to loosen the current drill bit. Where the hell did I ever leave it? Tiniest hex key ever, maybe 1mm wide.


Update: The hex key is apparently slightly less than 2mm across, that is the size of the hex socket, less than 2mm.

Maybe this list can give me a clue to what might be a proper replacement part:
4. August, 11:35
one like this could be the solution to your problem.... [img1]
4. August, 12:21
article number 115700 from KWB.EU. But i am sure there are many others (this one has hex key of 0.7, 0.9, 1.3 and 1.5mm)
4. August, 12:24
Thanks for the feedback 🙂
4. August, 13:02
Found some really small flat files online, looks interesting:

Maybe goes together with this holder:
4. August, 12:19

August 1, 2021

Has anyone tried making dark panel lines using a pen? I vaguely recall having asked about this someplace on the internet some years ago, but I forgot what they said. I vaguely recall the black pen going through the paint they said, but ofc, that is what one would expect to cause a darkening, but maybe using a pen to draw inside the panel lines doesn't really work? Anybody tried this? 🙂
1. August, 08:46
Murad ÖZER
i've used 2b lead pencil a lot for panel lines. tho the color of the paint and opacity/thinner ratio does come into play later on.

it's a matter of taste afterall but the technique is sound. the way i see it works best on gray camos, like modern us navy jets for ex.
1. August, 09:00

July 20, 2021

Treehugger owns this item
20. July, 13:46
Treehugger owns this item
20. July, 13:46
Treehugger owns this item
1:48 Aircraft Weapons: B (Hasegawa X48-2)
Aircraft Weapons: B U.S Guided Bombs & Rocket Launchers
Hasegawa 1:48
X48-2 (36002) 1987 | New tool Multi-topic (14)
20. July, 13:46
I got this vacuum part aftermarket product the mail today. 🙂 It is for the Academy kit. Haven't fitted it yet, but it should fit I would think.

The parts looks nice and smooth. There is one big piece for front, side and rear glass all in one piece, then there is an additional front with some lower shielding, and then there is an additional top door surface. Presumably, some gentle cutting and sanding is required to use the vacuum parts for the opened configuration.
20. July, 08:30

July 9, 2021

I think I will buy a 3800 lumen LED work lamp, until I can figure out if I can arrange for better lighting. By having such a lamp light up the ceiling, the light in the room should increase by a factor of at least 5. Hopefully there won't be funky shadows where I sit.
9. July, 15:46
Martin Oostrom
Only if you don't live down the glidepath of an airport!
9. July, 17:19

July 8, 2021

Treehugger owns this item
8. July, 13:53
Treehugger owns this item
1:35 Tortoise A39 (E.T. Model E35-156)
WWII British Heavy Assault Tank
Tortoise A39 Meng
E.T. Model 1:35
E35-156 2013
8. July, 13:53
Treehugger owns this item
1:35 A39 Tortoise (Meng Model TS-002)
British Heavy Assault Tank
A39 Tortoise
Meng Model 1:35
TS-002 2012 | New tool
8. July, 13:53
Protip: The build manual have 5 pages for the paint guides. These five pages have to be taken/ripped out of the manual, to make sense. When detatched, you get five sheets of a variety of paint schemes. If you leave them inside the manual, it will look really confusing.
8. July, 13:05
Treehugger wants this item
8. July, 08:16

July 7, 2021

Q: Anybody know of a decent aftermarket product for Australian air force decal roundels? Ideally both black and gray.
7. July, 19:52
This is a nice bench imo, if you live near an Ikea store: Alex table, 2m wide + 10 drawers.

The big surface, rests on top of the two sets of drawers, no screws. The big plate rests on top of four rubber thingies, on each drawer, and then there is a leg screwed on at the center underneath to prevent the surface from bending.

A version without the 10 drawers is this one below
7. July, 10:08
On second thought, it could be that the newer model, has screwes for the top surface. I bought mine two years ago, then the top plate did not have screws, just resting on top of a total of 8 rubber bits. The Ikea manual online doesn't seem to explain how the top plate is fastened, if at all.
7. July, 13:16
Hehe I counted some 40'ish parts, to not be used in the manual. 🙂 Still, that leaves some 250+ parts I guess.
7. July, 13:15

July 6, 2021

I thought I had plenty of bench space, but it turns out, with the airbrush ventilator on the table (2m wide table), there isn't much room left.

So I guess I'll buy another 2m wide Ikea table. :| I should probably wait until a bit later, as the Ikea shipping is super expensive where I live, for furniture.
6. July, 16:13

July 5, 2021

Treehugger marked this item as on order
5. July, 20:45
Seeing as how there is a photo etch set for this kit in particular and not Admiral Lazarev, I managed to change my order to this kit. At least then the photo etch I want, should better match the kit of choice. 🙂
5. July, 20:46

July 3, 2021

Treehugger marked this item as on order
3. July, 10:15
Treehugger marked this item as on order
3. July, 10:13

July 2, 2021

Q: Anybody know what the difference is between the two cruisers below? The latter has "new parts".

Russian Cruiser Admiral Lazarev (Trumpeter 04521, 1:350) (older)

1:350 Russian Cruiser Admiral Lazarev (Trumpeter 04521)

Russian Cruiser Pyotr Velikiy (Trumpeter 04522, 1:350) (newest)

1:350 Russian Cruiser Pyotr Velikiy (Trumpeter 04522)

I ordered the 'Admiral Lazarev' kit, but the photo etch I am considering is for the 'Pyotr Velikiy' kit, which has "new parts".
2. July, 21:08
Treehugger marked this item as on order
2. July, 20:36
Treehugger marked this item as on order
2. July, 20:36


2021-07-02 20:35:36

2016-12-08 20:43:11



We use cookies to give you a great and free experience. By continuing to browse the site you are agreeing to our use of cookies.

You can change your Cookie settings at any time. (Essential cookies are for: preferences, security, performance analytics and contextual advertising)

Privacy policy »     Continue