Treehugger Fun things I learned:
1) I can use two tweezers and very gently bend photo etch prop blad to make it look curved. I can also probably sand the edges sharper with some later project to get more detailing onto the propellers.
2) I have to be very careful when airbrushing smaller parts, and especially when airbrushing on metal color. Not good once things starts to become runny. :|
3) Again, it was fun adding detailing to the sail (tower).
4) I have to be more careful when cluing on large pieces of photo etch, like handrails. Tricky stuff.
5) Adding photo etch onto a curved surface is tricky, when it isn't easy for me to bend small photo etch parts properly.
6) Using chisel tools is really nice. You can both carve/slice but also turn it around and use it as a scrape.
15. September, 19:59
Marc Schnitzler Looking really nice!
You can remove the flakes with the appropriate thinner of the clearcoat, but be careful not to remove the paint underneath.
15. September, 20:06
Treehugger Interesting. I'll try keep that in mind.
Jim J Wonderful work. I really appreciate your attention to detail on the deck, sail and props. Well done. As a former submariner, I'm a big fan of the Nautilus and you've certainly done it justice. Congrats.
I have a hobby room in which I've been airbrushing in (venting outside w. spray booth), and today I cleaned the walls. All white, still. Though, there was some black dust around the air outlet up on the ceiling presumably coming from the vent system, and then there was some general yellow stuff, which might be some green, or possibly pollen. I used a dry microfiber cloth and avoiding moistening it. Total filth was low it seems and I cleaned the four walls and the white ceiling. I've noticed tiny brown dots around the apartment, which probably is insect shit.
17. September, 16:17
Treehugger I have another Bandai 1:144 falcon to build, so this one will have to wait.
Greg Baker Oh, I want to see this too. I've got one in the stash.
4. July, 14:18
Treehugger Btw, there seems to be one error in the build guide, which shows in the paint guide. There is this part 39, a small air intake on the side of the fuselage, which points the wrong way in the paint guide. As I think I've pointed out earlier, the base for the arrestor hook is such a weird part, I was lucky I could even make it fit on the model. I had fun building this model.
I made some custom things to the model:
- I added a custom clear part on both wing tips.
- I placed some black card board inside the empty engine shapes to make it look dark when looking in through the air intakes. I also used sprue good to fill the holes and then drilled it out again to make a more distinct shape on the insides.
- I thinned the wing edges I think, I could probably have thinned them more.
Treehugger You are too kind. I am happy with the overall result, but there is no weathering on this model. It is a nice kit and it was fun to build, which imo is a surprise given that this is a Revell kit.
9. September, 17:42
Gary Dahlström Hey a well-executed clean build is a thing to behold, which is why every once in a while I do a showroom auto build, if only to remember that some things in this world get washed. Anything involving the word clean around here is not an easy task with all the cat hair flying around my 'shop.
You got that radome mounted perfectly(!), and the dihedral of the stabilizers looks great. Those mods you made illustrate ur attention to detail.
I'm looking forward to my B9 project because that will be a clean build - nice n' shiny! I can't remember the last Revell kit I dove into, but I made many when I was a teen. Do you happen to know if this was an original Revell mold, or one they picked up from a defunct manufacturer?
Nice work, man.
9. September, 17:58
Treehugger This kit is apparently based off a Revell new tool kit from 2004 if Scalemates kit history is correct. I like giving things a gloss coat and a satin varnish, which makes it new, but this time I mixed matte and satin varnish which made it look a little more dull, and I suspect the varnish wasn't mixed good enough before I put the mixture into my airbrush cup.
I regained some confidence in my own masking skills after a few mishaps recently. Though, I decided against trying to fix the minor flaws with the painted props. Nobody will notice it unless they really take a loong good look. I am actually fairly happy with the result even with the minor clitch, where the outer masking tape didn't want to lie as I wanted to (not enough surface area for the adhesive I think).
I wish I would bother buying a chrome paint pen, but I just don't think I can justify such an expense if the pen maybe doesn't work 100% all the time. :| Though, I don't know for sure how well they work. I suspect they go bad after a while.
Mathijs Beenhakker @Treehugger, you're welcome sir...And may i compliment you on this very nice job you're doing on this "Dog of a Cat"
1. September, 03:16
Daniel Still no shortcuts taken! I really enjoy watching this battle!
Pic 61: You could simply sand the rear seat underside? Since those are height adjustable in the real jet I think this would be my cheap solution to this
Pic 65: This is a very, very sensible step, wish I had used that on mine...
Pic 67: How do you get around the engine parts in between?
5. September, 20:26
Gary Dahlström Love your perseverance...looking forward to your victory.
5. September, 21:19
Treehugger If I can just get the damn canopy pieces on without screwing up, I think it will end up being a nice looking model. Except the nose gear bay which will look so basic, it won't be interesting to look at, and I'll be happy I managed to get the nose wheel on in the first place. I am currently painting the cockpit. I started with glossy black primer.
I moved the whole canopy down, which made the rear seat fit. I did try to sand the base of the rear seat, but it wasn't enough. Aah, interesting about the engine parts. I checked just now and it looks like my rod will go clear, just barely, so it looks it will fit.
5. September, 21:57
Clifford Keesler I am just amazed at what you are doing with this kit. I was looking last night and figured out why I had so much trouble with my kit. The 2 prior ones I built were newer boxings, the last one I built was one of the first boxings. It had been in my stash for a long time.
6. September, 01:04
Treehugger Ooh, the figures are tricky stuff. I tried to make the look as good as I could as mere plastic figures, but masking the tiny edges is tricky. I airbrushed the black primer, green and white, but it seems it is now back and forth fixing things here and there with a tiny brush. The hands and the few details I will have to paint with a small brush. I used multiple layers of Vallejo Green Flourescent over glossy black primer, with a brush and I think it worked nicely, or ok. Still more painting to be done with the cockpit/seats/figure. I will have to add a gloss coat to the figures and seats, and add a pin wash.
Treehugger Would be nice to have been done with the paintwork here, but I sort of think the white waterline seen in photo 15 ended up being much too thick. I am not sure this submarine have the waterline painted on normally, though the paint guide suggest as much. I used the lazy option of using the thinnest masking tape I had, which is 1 mm. Still, too wide.
11. September, 13:16
Clifford Keesler Looks good to me, but of course I don't have pictures of the actual sub.
12. September, 00:59
Treehugger I hope you like it. It is really fun getting to see results like this, as I have some ten sub kits in my stash, or more. Learning some more stuff, little by little.
Edit: Oh, I nearly fogot, I've seen a no-slip surface on the top deck on a photo, I will airbrush on matte varnish to make this look like a no-slip area. I already tried this on some other model and it looked nice.
I imagine one could add some basic weathering, like stripes going from the upper side and down towards the water, but I don't really know what to use. I guess, it is time to find a scrap model and try stuff out. I will add a gloss coat or two or three, and then a satin varnish with maybe some matte varnish mixed into it. Also, there are some decals, the propeller to be glued on, the masts, and I guess I could add some figures. Also, I nearly forgot, because I painted the sub in a lighter black, I should be able to add some black pin wash around the missile tube hatches.
12. September, 08:59
Clifford Keesler I added water stains and rust streaks to my Gato class sub using white oil paint, burnt umber and pastel chalk. Just apply a small drop of oil paint where you want the streak, and using a stiff bristle brush just stroke downward, If it is to much, just dab the brush in enamel thinner and remove most of the thinner on a rag, then repeat the downward stroke until you get the effect you want.
13. September, 21:49
Treehugger Interesting. Hm, I have this other hull I've painted, but failed to clean things up properly (USS Thresher). I guess I should look for some proper oils next week. I could use that painted model as a test/scrap model. No big deal.
When finishing a project I've been wondering if I should make a new album or not, and it occurred to me that I can just set the first album image to the first photo showing the finished model, then people get to see the finish photos right away and can still chose to easily watch the wip images from the start after that.
I think I learned something new about using 'The Army Painter' saw, for cutting into plastic when dragging the saw down through a long panel line: Best to make sure the tip digs into the start of the panel line, but keep an eye on the other end to match the panel line, to avoid the saw being angled away from the direction of the panel line.
I finally got to use some tools I had bought previously. A roll of thick self adhesive tape, that is sort of stiff, and works nicely to pull the scriber along. I also try to re-use this stuff by placing the used bit of tape, onto silk paper, so that the self adehesive glue isn't lost nor the thing discarded.
2. September, 16:49
August 20, 2020
Treehugger I think I picked the wrong day to quit waiting for somebody to make a new 1:48 scale Hind
Treehugger Finally this kit appear to be out on sale.
2. May, 13:36
Palo M Unfortunately, reviews are not great (e.g. on flory models). Might still be the best 1:48 though.
29. June, 09:41
Treehugger Probably is I would think. I saw that 'Fine Scale Modeler' on youtube had a review of this recently, but I think they forgot to show the clear parts. But ofc I've seen other reviews and I believe the clear parts are totally ok.
29. June, 09:47
Daniel I was pretty excited for this at first - but the total lack of rivets on such a heavy metal soviet machinery is a no go for me. I mean its 1:48...and its 2020
29. June, 10:25
Treehugger Given that washes are popular now, I certainly is a minus. I mean, rivets certainly helps make that kind of detailing pop up at your eyes so to speak.
29. June, 12:49
inf32den Well, lack of rivets is terrible. But zvezda positioning of this model is a "toy" (( Also they thought about an adult modelers, who knows how to riveting the model. And, of course, big range of applying aftermarket. Quinta shows the way))
I had this epiphany just now regarding re-scribing which I so far have not been good at, and which sort of scares me. I recalled what somebody else here mentioned about making rivets in plastic, by doing the riveting but then sanding over it all to remove the protruding edges around each hole, and then it struck me, for re-scribing it imo makes sense that one would also do this sanding over, after scribing to better end up with a nice loocking surface and I guess one would want a little more depth to the custom panel lines this way. Obviously, one doesn't want to sand the entire surface down, and so one can't sand too much down around each panel line either, else the entire surface becomes uneven.
13. August, 11:29
Steven Van Dyck You knew that you can also use Tamiya Extra Thin to soften the panel lines and remove dust out of them?
13. August, 20:33
Treehugger Yes, but I have to be careful, and not use too much, or it might blemish the top glossy surface I think.
14. August, 07:31
Steven Van Dyck Oh, it's that experiment where you worked after the paint stage? Then don't use the glue. I think sanding with one of those fine sticks and dry-brushing where you lost the paint are better options.
I just got my 3M "Power Tool Safety Goggles" with soft latex plastic. I wanted this for covid-19 to protect my eyes if things got crazy where I live, but I realize these will be nice when I airbrush close without my eye glasses, as I tend to get some paint particles around my eyes which stings.
Re. scribing/re-scribing panel lines. Does anyone know how to best clean up corners? Maybe switching tools? I have plenty of guides for corners/shapes but this seems like very annoying to align properly if there is an existing panel line on a plastic kit that I want to enhance and make deeper.
Re. my previous negative experience with the very first use of the Benchvent ventilator product BV300S-D:
1) It seems to me now as I have taken apart the first filter I used (I had it stored away for a long time), it looks like paint did fill 100% of the entire area for the fine particle filter at the front, which is also where the clogging happened I think.
2)My initial thought about the paint pigments being stuck at the center was wrong.
3) Still, quick clogging is apparently possible, and you don't notice it unless you check the airflow coming out of the exhaust pipe every time (I can do this, and I am doing it now to detect clogging), or change filter much quicker to be on the safe side. It seems that airbrushing on Vallejo primer and paint at 40 psi (now I use psi of 25'ish) probably was what made my first filter clog up.
4) Because of how the first filter had clogged up so rapidly, with really no air going out the exhaust pipe (ugh), I thought maybe there was a design flaw, because it looks a little funny imo when the intake inside the machine is aimed at the center but also at a small area of the filter area, and I was wondering if maybe the filter was pressing onto the filter and maybe clogging up too soon that way if clogging just a little round area in the middle of the filter.
I guess, now that I airbrush at a lower psi, probably using less paint, and when I get to check the airflow befoer every time I use it, I am happy using this spraybooth with my Vallejo paint.
If you can, I would recommend checking the airflow BEFORE you start airbrushing if, or, change the filter more rapidly because of how a filter can be clogged in about a week. The important part is that you don't want to end up with a situation in which the air doesn't get sucked out anymore because there is too much paint on the filter.
1 | 12. August, 09:14
Treehugger Small correction: I wrote..
"and I was wondering if maybe the filter was pressing onto the filter and maybe clogging up too soon that way"
"and I was wondering if maybe the exhaust pipe was pressing onto the filter and maybe clogging up too soon that way"
I just felt like suggesting this Trumpeter chisel tool, which seems so helpful, because you can use the big flat one at least, in two ways:
1) Cut off plastic by pushing the chisel into the plastic, along the surface.
2) Turn the chisel tool around, and drag the chisel tool, to scrape off plastic, in hard to get places.
I only have the big flat one, and the tiny flat one.
Bernd Korte I really like this little cargo plane and look forward to see what you make out of the kit.
1. August, 07:20
Treehugger A fun diorama could be a crashed plane, crashed in a swamp or something, but that would be way to advanced for me.
On my to-do list, I have ofc this, and some other kits on my table(s) that I should really finish, but I do I little here and there until I get to airbrush something, and then I guess I'lll queue it behind my other projects. Lol.
The most fun I have from building scale model kits is probably the sanding and cleaning up, and enhancing of details, or even adding them. Fixing glaring shape issues, isn't fun though. I lost all steam on my 1:72 Dora German WW2 railway cannon, when I figured, I had to do a 90% scratch build and buy a freaking lathe machine.
Just wanted to mention, that my old scissor had started cracking up and began to fall apart. Being a 20 year old scissor, I guess that had to happen with the plastic handle. So I bought a new scissor. First one in 20+ years. And then a week after that.. I bought another one of the same type, now I can abuse one, and keep one for the stuff that require a sharp scissor.
Q: Is there a way to make the use of riveting tools also allow for applying a pin wash later?
I imagine that the holes would have to be adequately deep or something. Also, I am not sure what to expect of an ideal riveting work in plastic. Seems like when I try with what I have, there is some distrubance on top of the surface in addition to the tiny pits in the plastic.
26. July, 21:39
Steven Van Dyck The Villalba airplane modelling book tells to sand a bit after pinwheeling. [img1]
Helmut Fraundorfer You can also use super thin cement (from Tamiya for example) to "melt" away the burrs around the "tiny pits" make sure to unload the brush attached to the lid very well before going over the rescribed areas. I usually go at it like that as it is a bit faster than sanding and there is no closing up of those "pits" with removing the burrs with cement.
Treehugger Well, shit, that is news. But, what do you think of it? I guess I am wondering just now nicely this goes down (or not). I guess the appeal might be if this could be a substitute to chrome paint, but perhaps that is wishing for too much.
23. April, 15:16
Günther Decock Hi tree bugger. I use the same brand, but the metal variant instead of chrome. It works quite well. I put some of the stuff on my finger or paper towel. Then you polish it out.
Treehugger Just a quick comment. I found that if I really need 20g nose weight as suggested in the build manual, there is no space in the nose for that I found, only being able to fit 12g inside the nose. It occurred to me that I could place a mystery box, with nose weight, in the cargo room just behind the cockpit. So with 12g in the nose, and say 15-20g behind the cockpit, maybe that would work. Hopefully the platic gear can handle this weight.
As with most of my projects these days, I do a little on each and hopefully they get finished over time, so no focused work on this.
I just learned that when cleaning up an enamel pin wash, I get bad results when trying to clean it up with a cotton bud because the fabric digs into the panel lines and removes the wash from the panel lines, but using simple tissue paper works nicely. :|
I am exicted by being able to getting a new digital camera soon, and also, I am able to use image editing software especially for improving the antialiasing in still photos, by enhancing various details as desired, softer or more crisp, by switching between sampling filters when re-scaling a large photo down into what ends up being a smaller jpeg image.
Other fun stuff one can do with this software: color correction, effects, text, compositing work.
I should be set up for showing much better photos. I will have to consider arranging some special lighting or background setup for models. In addition to lighting, maybe some special background, or maybe just some black or white, or gray ground sheet.
5. July, 09:57
Urban Gardini Nice and you should also look into stacking as that is a great tool for stills. Looking forward to seeing your nice builds in even better quality!
As for taking photos, I think it is a good idea to firstly take appealing photos, which might mean taking a step back, or two, to avoid showing the flaws. And then a separate range of photos showing details with warts and all.
5. July, 11:22
Urban Gardini Stacking is several photos with different focal depth that is merged together thus creating a photo that is in focus all the way.
5. July, 14:25
Rui S @Urban, Thx for that info Mate. I never knew about stacking.
Danny Meer I'm using a Canon D700 and really love it. It's nice to have a touchscreen that you can also flip in all directions. Have 3 lenses with it. And atm as a second hand you can get them at a very nice price.
I am not 100% sure what I want, but I have my eyes on another pocket camera (Panasonic Lumix DMC-TZ100), which should have a much better sensor than the one I have now (Fujifilm FinePix JZ700).
This TZ100 camera has a RAW mode which should be great for making the best photos, compared to my old camera which only saves photos as JPEGs. The TZ100 also allows you to change the point of focus, after you have taken a photograph.
3. July, 22:37
Rafael Lang RAW are always the best option to photos! and the lenses, what are her focal lengths? she was good with macros?
4. July, 00:16
Rafael Lang I must confess that I haven't seen a camera review since I bought my Nikon D7000, even though it's time to buy a new one because it's already out of date for work!
4. July, 00:17
Treehugger I know there are good cameras around, but I personally have a budget limit and somehow I can't justify paying too much for a camera, no matter how good it is. The "new" camera has 'optical image stabilizaztion' which sounds nice, and 4k video (stereo sound, but no microphone jack).
4. July, 10:25
Treehugger To answer your questions. I don't think this TZ100 camera has exchangable optics, so all built into the camera being a small'ish pocket camera. It has a macro mode for close up photos. A reviewer points out some possible limitaitons in the settings for professionsal, but I have to re-check that.
As for focal length, a review highlights the following:
25-250mm f/2.8–5.9 lens
I never cared much for Soviet tanks, but I ordered an artillery tractor recently, and some of them are apparently based on some tank design according to this video I just watched. Anyway, I saw this documentary of Soviet Antarctic tractors that someone made, and I thought these tractors could be a fun and unique subject to scratch build. A tricky detail might be the wide tracks, but they seem simple enough, but they are wider than the tank tracks, unsure if being unique parts, or just wide stuff added to existing tank tracks.
Ingo F Nice idee mate. I was planing to build one in the future, base on the AT-T chassis.
2. July, 21:43
Ingo F I guess you can use the Miniart Kit T-54 Wheel Set Early Type (MiniArt 37054, 1:35) for the wheels and sprokets. The tracks are not unique but simply T-55 RMSh tracks where the "shoes" were added to them. You can see it on this picture: [img1]
They tracks were used on both Kharkovchanka 1 and 2.
Treehugger I want to add that the image seen in the video still, is from the first dedicated vehicle design to Antactic, and then they made another design, and the third design got cancelled. They also used an older artillery tractors before this.
Ingo F You are welcome mate. If you need information, just ask.
Thumbnail picture is from the first model. Kharkovchanka 2 was an extended (2 additional wheels) AT-T tractor with the habitation Module on the loading area. The third one supposed to be on the MT-T chassis but was canceled due to dissolution of the Soviet Union.
3. July, 11:02
Treehugger Ah, the additional two wheels I forgot about that.
Maybe cheaper to try buy some cheap 1:35 kit of the tank chassis and just try add the wheels and extend the chassis.
3. July, 13:26
Ingo F Should work but i think that you wont get one for under 80-90€.
3. July, 14:44
Sven Schönyan Interesting project! I´ll keep an eye on this. The Soviets had some awesome stuff!
3. July, 14:48
Treehugger Not something I will try doing anytime soon. Project also seems pricey, but could be a super fun snow diorama I think. I have so many work-in-progress builds, I feel a need to finish some of them to feel good about it all.
Treehugger There is afaik another Dragon kit with a different variant, no tank chassis, but instead a simple launcher structure, maybe for being towed I don't remember. I found this kit with a big dicount, so I was sort of compelled to buy it.
29. June, 09:49
Palo M Looking forward to photos of construction/finished model.
Looking at the parts and doing some initial clean up of some newly aquired kit (1:72 C-123 plane), I am reminded what made plastic kits so nice as a kid. As a kid, clear parts were just this necessity for adding glass/window surfaces and I liked that. As an adult, I can't get resist thinking of various problems and the job of having to use masking tape.
Treehugger Seeing as how the kit should include a regular nose, I thought I'd paint it silver and use the plain nose, for an unmarked plane.
22. June, 13:18
Treehugger Apparently, there were two planes of this type, and in addition to carrying a F-104 radar in the nose, the plane had a bomb dispenser underneath to attack ground targets. Presumably this dispenser, is what the single large photo etch part is for.
Feature request: I believe HTML 5 has a standardized hotkey setup, in which one can use the keyboard arrow keys to flip though image galleries, and I am wondering if using one's left-right arrow key can be used to flip through the uploaded images of somebody's gallery, as opposed to clicking on them. Presumably, there might be some issue having the browser focusing on the gallery photos and not stuff outside a div or whatever.
Q: What scale(s) are more likely to have new molds for cars/truck kits?
Presumably, lots of old mold kits are still around, and I don't know what to look for if looking for newer better molds.
22. June, 12:00
June 21, 2020
Treehugger Anybody have some nice things to say about this particulary Academy kit? I've checked the reviews, but it would be nice to hear from others. One reviewer has it as a recommended kit, but ofc I don't fully trust reviewers.
René "Bilbo" Bartholemy "Anthracite is a chalky and earthy near-black or very dark gray. Anthracite itself is a form of coal used in thermal power stations for generating electricity. The colour comes from the object and is a favoured choice in furniture, home decor, and graphic design projects."
Having been busy with other things, I found some time to do some airbrushing. I am really happy for having figured out how to airbrush on Vallejo's Glossy Black primer. I make sure to write down the parameters so that I better remember what I did.
I had great results airbrushing on Vallejo Glossy Black primer with 25 psi, and a mix of 50 drops of primer + 25 drops of flow enhancer + 10 drops of thinner (mixed in a tiny jar). Makes for a thin layer of paint, but without a single issue. The primer was put through a sift to catch any damning bits of paint coming from the bottle (I didn't see any this time around, but I did previously).
I have two Iwata airbrushes: Eclipse HP-CS (0.35) and Eclipse HP-CS (0.5 conversion, never using it). I bought a spare part for the 0.35 airbrush, a rear handle with a paint limiter, which is nice to have imo.
Anyone familiar with this Academy F-15 kit? Not happy with their F-14 in 1:48, so hoping this F-15 later on might be ok. I already have a vacuum canopy for the Academy F-15C in 1:48. F-15 C/D Eagle (Academy 12257, 1:48)
17. May, 10:00
Alan G Never had any good experiences with Academy. Especially their decals. I hope this one is better for you.
17. May, 11:05
Vjekoslav Ranec 3.6 Roentgen - Not Great Not Terrible. Go for GWH or Hasegawa.
I feel a little bad for posting several updates during a day, because it pushes the entires for finished models further down that what good is I think.
Perhaps an idea to allow the viewer to decide if he/she can both: look at only finished projects only, and also a mix of finished projects and work-in-progress updates? Or is maybe that feature already a thing?
17. May, 08:51
Treehugger will attend Scalemates F-14 Tomcat Group build 2020
Sigh, a local online toy store that sells scale model kits specifically, have some 50% higher price on Tamiya's second kit version of the new F-14 kit when comparing it to the first version. Surreal prices on some of the things.
And some $66 (equivalent) for a 1:144 AC-130 Hercules kit from Minicraft is just stupid.
15. May, 19:26
Treehugger I added the required album title, but I am not listed as having joined the group build. Was I supposed to do anything else?
Q: Does anyone have a suggestion for a new mold and nicely detailed car model kit? I guess 1:24 scale or somesuch.
I could try some older model, but I am a little tired of fixing older models. Trucks would be nice as well, but I haven't found many truck model kits of trucks that I like. :| Seems like they are mostly semi trailers, which I don't like. I like trucks to have 10 wheels or more and not being semi trailer trucks.
Treehugger Anyone wanting to do a more accurate build, have to be very careful with the "holes" on the sides. I think the openings are placed too high on the side, such that, the bottom part of each hole should perhaps lie flush with the deck, such that water can just fall off the deck through the openings. I made the holes a little larger so that they are flush with the deck at the bottom side, but, that is just enough to make the PE fit the new opening. There is another detail to watch out for. The PE itself, on the inside of the railings, will create an edge, which shouldn't be there, as I suspect the PE placement has to match the hole, such that water can roll off the deck unhindered. My guess anyway. So I ended up making the holes a little too large, but good enough for me.
I will buy a glassfiber pen next week, so that I can gently scratch off the excessive amounts of superglue around the photo etch parts.
21. February, 21:44
Treehugger I want to quickly point out that, cleaning up superglue with a glassfiber pen, isn't as easy as I thought. Half the issue is actually seeing with my own eyes if I have finished ceaning up or not. Also, the pen is an abrasive and will dig into the plastic eventually it seems.
28. February, 18:18
Bozzer Good tip, Treehugger. I'll keep that in mind, for future reference.
28. February, 23:54
Christian Bruer That looks like a ship and a clean and sharp start on it. Count me in!
1. March, 19:31
Treehugger Photo 6: I was worried I had messed things up by using too much superglue, but I see now that having added a layer of primer paint, it looks like now, it is easier to clean up the excess cyanoacrylate glue, using this glass fiber pen. Ideally I should have been more careful gluing on each piece of PE by using masking tape, but too late to change that now I guess.
It seems to me that maybe MikroMir's plastic sprues, are fun to stretch when held over a candle light. Stretches forever it seems. No idea if the plastic is having some other quality to it, or me being a little lucky. I ended up with this near 40 cm long "antenna wire".