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Treehugger (Treehugger)



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I got an email from Hobby Boss today, after having solicited for some spare parts. They seem to link to a store for (Trumpeter) on Aliexpress. Not the response I was hoping for. They also said I could contact someone in particular, but failed to say how.

Iirc, Hobby Boss has this other spare parts request thing on their website, but I can't get that to even work. Very frustrating!
11. November at 15:28:01 Share
Treehugger Update: In all fairness, they did CC the email to another person. I didn't notice that.
I have contacted the other person and I would think I can get my extra sprues.

This means, I can get to have enough tiny handwheels for the Dora kit, as the kit doesn't provide enough of them. Although the center handwheels is probably next to impossible to see from the outside, the corrections I will be doing require more handwheels.
12. November at 11:56:28
Treehugger Update: I was given an email address in the emails CC field, and I have now paid for three A sprues, that contain lots of tiny hand wheels. That means I can at least get to add all the handwheels on inside and outside of the Dora model. They wanted 5 usd + 10 usd shipping for this. Paypal also added some 5 usd on top of that.
13. November at 13:48:20
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November 12, 2019

Treehugger added a new photoalbum.
17. December 2018 at 16:58:08 Share
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Holger Kranich Dammit! I wouldnt expect that there is so much work on it to do!
2. November at 11:41:55
Treehugger I had started to remove the detailing on the kit parts, the two big parts, but.. probably quicker and easier to make new ones with sheet styrene. The thing about the general shape is that, if not everything is made to look, plausibly correct when comparing to photos, something is going to look way off and make other things look way off. So I think it is better to try make a good drawing, then everything is so much easier and better after that.
2. November at 13:12:44
Treehugger Image 92: It looks to me that the leaf suspension is also supported by a secondary suspension on both sides of the wheel, the two thingies that go downwards.
5. November at 16:59:12
Treehugger Image 93: High res image: (fixed)

Aah. Now I can finally get to complete the other stuff, with the carriages solved.

Edit: Ah, nope. I must fix some mirroring issue of a particular detail, and a little bit of cleanup. Done!

To clarify. So it turned out that, the measurements of 30m between the two hingepoints on the main structure seemed legit imo, and that the other stated distance between the two hinge points on the carriages, of 4250 x 2 mm, also seemed legit so to speak. I didn't trust the numbers at first, but eventually, they made good sense I think. The numbers are from a sketch in the German book on railway guns. The sketch itself looks bad, so that is why I didn't trust it.

Comparing the lower carriages in the kit box with my drawing, the kit carriages are ca 15mm longer, each (or, at least the front one is, not including the extra buffer part). :)

Comparing the top carriage in the kit box, with my drawing, the kit carriage is ca 9,5 mm longer.
5. November at 22:30:05
Treehugger Image 96: I thought I was done with the carriages, but I had to try something out to follow a new set of variables. I think I have made an improvement. Very hard for me to say if the carriages are supposed to be a little higher (they were lowered a bit) when comparing to photos. I changed a lot of things on the center main structure.

Edit: Ofc, I had forgotten to update something here in image 96.
9. November at 16:33:26
Treehugger Image 97: It just occurred to me, that, if I am a little lucky here, the reduced width of the top carriage, if ending up around 42 mm, would be the same width of the kit's photo etch. :) Only thing then, is that, the length of the kit's PE is 5mm longer, 2,5 mm fore and aft, than my current suggestion. Very, very interesting. :)
10. November at 14:06:53
Treehugger Image 98: Oooh. It looks like I can get to use the photo etch for the top carriage (four of them). And, it isn't obvious to me that this would make the top carraige too long either when comparing to the photos in the book. :)
11. November at 21:35:43
Treehugger Image 99: I looked at some more clues, and with a good photo with little to no perspective distortion on a plane, I figured the width of the main halves to be pretty much 875 mm, or 12.15 mm in 1:72 scale. Also, it seems obvious now, with one photo, that the lower "connector arm" simply can't have the same angle as the upper connector arm, which could explain why I couldn't fit them symmetrically on my drawing previously.
12. November at 15:28:45
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Treehugger owns this item
1:35 2cm Salvenmaschinenkanone SMK 18 - Typ 2 (Das Werk DW35005)
2cm Salvenmaschinenkanone SMK 18 - Typ 2
Das Werk 1:35
2019 | New tool
12. November at 08:32:33 Share

November 11, 2019

Q: Does the "medium" here indicate a more rough file, if compared to "Smooth"? Anybody know?
28. October at 14:48:03 Share
Pavel Šenk Yes, these medium are more rough (like rasp) than those Smooth ones.
11. November at 15:47:15
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November 1, 2019

Any idea if there are metal tracks for such a kit? I couldn't find any.

Alternatively, any non rubber track will also be an improvement I think. The rubber tracks that are included is said to be very good, though I would be tempted to get metal tracks if there is any.
1:35 Hitachi Excavator Zaxis 135US (Hasegawa 66001)
Hitachi Excavator Zaxis 135US
Hasegawa 1:35
66001 (WM01)
2017 | New tool
26. October 2018 at 10:39:32 Share
Skipperted The real thing doesn't have metal tracks... it has rubber ones
1. November at 09:49:04
Treehugger I am sure some of those machines have rubber tracks (I've seen it myself), but I think this one does have metal tracks, certainly looks like it, if you look at the box art.
1. November at 13:52:31
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October 28, 2019

28. October at 08:45:42 Share
Treehugger owns this item
28. October at 08:45:39 Share

October 21, 2019

Idea, for creating a rifled barrel, the easier way (as I imagine it):
1) Start with thin sheet of styrene, and eventually place that curved, and inside a hollow plastic barrel.
2) Add rifling, using thin styrene strips on a FLAT piece of thin styrene sheet
3) Place the customized sheet of styrene inside a hollow barrel, and create slight twirl.
4) Glue in place along that one seam, the whole way down through the barrel, and maybe glue on front/end as well..
5) Then.. saw the barrel to length and clean up.

Accurate placement of strips of styrene can be made, by filling the width of the sheet styrene with strips, glue on every other one, then remove the "spacers" to "create" the rifled grooves.

Does this sound like a plan or not? :)

This way, one can also get to paint the inside rifling, with a metallic color before placing it inside a cylinder!

Uuh, perhaps another way to create rifling, could be to scribe into plastic, but perhaps very very tricky to get proper parallel lines, ofc, slight errors might be unnoticable, practically speaking.

The Dora gun barrel has 96 + 96 grooves iirc. 96 top fins, and 96 grooves.

Hm, in order to get proper shape to the grooves, I could very gently sand the grooves with some tool, to avoid the "fins"/"grooves" being simply square shaped in cross section.
21. October at 15:19:29 Share
Martin Oostrom You want to create gun rifling in a 1/72 barrel? Brave, even on the Dora.
Go for it!
21. October at 16:04:52
Treehugger Ooh, yes, this might be more trickier than I first thought. The kit part cannon nozzle has 45 fins and 45 grooves.
21. October at 16:33:22
Treehugger Hm, if only I had a super accurate table with a measuring device, then I could scribe one line, move the whole thing by a rotating wheel, then scribe another line, and that should at least be someting that works in theory without having to eyeball it all.

Hm, maybe a custom piece of photo etch could work better. Each groove/fin would have to be about 0,175 and 0,2 mm wide each I think. Maybe in the realms of photo etch territory. But then again, if covering the whole barrel, the photo etch would have to be 40 cm long, which seems dubious in terms of comsumer grade photo etch stuff.

Uuh, I guess I could be forced to reduce the number of grooves/fins to someting that happens to match some strip of styrene. *goes to check*
21. October at 16:36:21
Treehugger Looks like 0.02" x 0.02" strips is the closest one with 0,5 x 0,5 mm, unless there are 0.01" x 0.01" square strips to be found. 0,5 x 0,5 mm strips would equal to about 40-48 grooves and 40-48 fins at first glance. Looks like 0.01" x 0.01" would be near perfect. :)

Hm there is such a thing as 0.01" x 0.02" strips. They would have to be eh sanded to equal length though, could be super easy. Just slide a fine flat metal file across an offset on both sides.
21. October at 16:45:53
Treehugger Hm. Barrel diameter on my drawing is 11,1 mm. Circumference being.. 34,854 mm. Divided by.. 192 parts.. for a sum of.. *drumroll* 0,1815 mm. Hm, a little less than 0,25 mm. Interesting. I guess, 0,25 would be a nice average, not that anywould would notice, unless they checked the size of the grooves closely. A difference of.. *drumroll* 37,7%. Not that bad. Uh, custom rifling being "merely" 37,7% larger than true to scale.
21. October at 16:56:09
Martin Oostrom Don't forget the diameter of the barrel is larger at the other end..... So your strips should widen a bit near the loading end. OR, just create the idea of rifling with some strip of a couple of cm on the business end.
21. October at 17:01:27
Treehugger No problem, the idea here is to just create the inner barrel, then an outer barrel is placed over the inner one. The outer barrel would be more massive at the end.

Update: Ah, one issue. The Evergreen styrene strips are not 40+ cm long. Hrm. I guess I could try hide the seams in the middle of the barrel. Strips are max 35 cm long or something like that.
21. October at 17:14:31
Treehugger Ugh, another problem: What does 69 + 69 strips of styene cost? Quite a lot! Actually, too much.

138 / 10 in each pack x say $4 = an awkward sum of $112, and I would probably need 50% more because each strips won't cover the lenght of the barrel, lol. Ah, shucks!!! This was such a fun idea. I am back to thinking of scribing the rifling, much cheaper. Another fun idea is to fill a barrel with putty, and then drag a styrene shape with the rifling pattern though it.

Hm with 96 grooves to be scribed, I think it might be a good idea to do the lines as halves of a total length, to avoid incremental measuring errors. E.g second scribe is half the distance of 96 fins, being 2 every 48 fins, next being 4 every 24 fins, next being 8 every 12 fins, next being 16 every 6 fins, next being 32 every 3 fins. Then, eventually there would be 32 pairs of grooves that has to be scribed to finish, but having no impact on general accuracy if the left of the grooves are more precise.

Btw, I noticed that Plaststruct has 0.01 x 0.01" square strips, but they are much shorter than the Evergreen ones. I've also seen that Plaststruct's styrene rods being uneven in width, which isn't comforting. Expected cost = ca $131 plus shipping. :( Just too much.
21. October at 17:51:30
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October 19, 2019

Q: How inconvenient is it to make custom made photo etch? Anybody know? Asking for a friend. :D
19. October at 14:18:36 Share

October 11, 2019

Q: Are there newer and better kits of the King George V class British battleship, specifically in 1:350 scale, other than the old Tamiya one? Anybody know? A newer one would be nice in 1:350.
11. October at 12:20:52 Share

October 10, 2019

Q: I've become aware of a new 1:350 Missouri kit from Joy Yard, should be in sale but I can't find a single review of it. Anyone have this kit? I've been scammed so many times on eBay now, I wouldn't know what seller to trust if the price is low'ish. I used to report suspected fraudulent listings on eBay but from a point, that function stopped working for me for reasons unknown.
10. October at 09:29:17 Share
Q: I've become aware of a new 1:350 Missouri kit from Joy Yard, should be in sale but I can't find a single review of it. Anyone have this kit? I've been scammed so many times on eBay now, I wouldn't know what seller to trust if the price is low'ish and with free shipping.
10. October at 09:28:40 Share

October 8, 2019

23. September at 20:05:46 Share
Ahmet Eren İspir I am thinking whether should I get this kit or not. Can you add some pictures of your build and would you suggest this kit as a first sailing ship model? I have built modern ships and other vehicles so it won't be my first ever kit.
6. October at 07:01:21
Treehugger I can show you some photos later today.

This is definitely an old mold, probably from somebody other than Zvezda. I would think that the plastic is good. The gunports aren't molded 100% symmetrically, so I have done a lot of sanding to adjust the horizontal position of the gunports. Vertically, they should be ok iirc. The sails, are hard/soft molded plastic. I thought on using fabric, but packing the sails, as I think it looks nicer. The cannons aren't very details. I ordered metal barrels, and 3D printed my own. But from a distance, the kit kannons probably look ok. The rigging for the side climbing stuff is all plastic. The kit contain different rolls of strings for the rest of the rigging. The deck and detaliling looks good I would say. I did buy aftermarket wooden deck, just to reduce the width of the planks. I also curved the deck, an experimental thing. There is no internal detail other than a plain cannon deck below. No cabin details iirc.

Yes, I think I can recommend this kit. I just don't know how difficult it will be to put up the plastic sails. the ship itself is a nice looking frigate. :) Some 50 cannons or so. Also, kit box have no figures iirc.
6. October at 09:34:15
Treehugger (these parts are 98% flash free in my box) (Not too large, not small, height unknown maybe 40+cm?, I doubled the thickness of hull here with sheet styrene) (all cannons, are one part only, no hole for the barrel, poor detailing but somewhat ok) (some of the stuff included, a nice nameplate and threads, some paper flag iirc) (sheet of thin plastic sail material) (What the side looks like, after careful sanding and filling, correcting some of the horizontal position of the cannon ports, should look ok by default if you aren't thinking too hard about it)

Some parts have flash on them. This is not an entirely flash free kit.
6. October at 10:33:16
6. October at 11:05:27
Ahmet Eren İspir Thank you guys, looks like I will get this kit when my Fletcher has done!
6. October at 15:17:57
Treehugger Might be better to get the one with the gray hull plastic, the zvezda one had black plastic. Unsure if the kits differ greatly or not with regard to content ohter than plastic (or anything).
6. October at 16:46:11
Ahmet Eren İspir I have seen only the zvezda one here, but will be searching for the other one also, this ship is really elegant...
6. October at 19:54:44
Treehugger I think galleon's look silly, frigates seems more beautiful I think.
6. October at 20:19:25
Richmond Check out the Revell - its listed here.

One thing to note these are very very old kits - I am in the middle of a Revell trawler and a tug and have another Gorch Forch in my stash and they are nothing like the quality of today's models - bad fitting, terrible overused moulds, lots of flash, seam lines and the parts themselves do not have the crispness and detail of todays models.

Unfortunatley the market does not exist for them to produce new kits. You only have to look at this newsfeed - very few ships built outside 20th century warhships.
7. October at 07:31:20
Ahmet Eren İspir Treehugger yes, I also feel the same for big line of ships, like HMS Victory. They look too fat and non aesthetic to me.

Richmond unfortunately, you are right. Seems like no one is interested in sailing ships anymore.
8. October at 10:58:02
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October 2, 2019

Q: Does anyone have a recommendation for an approx. 1 cm wide fine and flat file, for shaving off plastic? I'd like to know.

I will go check out some Japanese files I saw some time ago, but they are so pricey, would be nice to get something else cheaper, but it is ofc important that the metal file tool is actually flat and straight, not something I would expect from any cheap production. :|
2. October at 15:15:27 Share
Stefan Schacht Hallo Treehugger, my favorite file is a Flachfeile Hieb 3 150 mm (sorry I don´t know the English description). This file is normally used for steel and also works with plastic. I use it on almost every model. Cheers Stefan
2. October at 20:40:00
Treehugger Sounds nice, but how wide is this file?
2. October at 20:55:09
Stefan Schacht the file is 15mm wide, the smaller version is 100mm x 12mm
2. October at 21:05:16
Treehugger Thank you for the input! :)
2. October at 21:21:40
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I think I've come up with an idea for making custom railings in 1:72 scale. Basically, on a styrene sheet, scribe lines resembling the centerline of segments of metal railings, and place bits of styrene rods on the groove, and glue things with hopefully full control, making it all look nice with good accuracy.

I guess such a jig might work for soldering metal rods togehter, though I have no idea how easy it is to make the joints look flush without lots of work. Feel free to chime in on precisely that issue of soldering small metal rods together.

This way, it should be easy to make multiple jigs, that are custom made for various parts of an arrangement of metal railings on a ship or heh railway cannon.
2. October at 15:38:25 Share
I finished my setup of Vallejo paint racks: Should be good for 200++ 17ml bottles. I try to keep all my reserve bottles of same paint, elsewhere.

The two larger racks at the rear was glued together with wood glue, using clamps for a whole day for it to stick. Side by side, the cut out wooden parts didn't align 100%, but good enough for the base to sit firmly on the top of the drawer.

The drawers are Ikea's Alex series. Really nice for once to have tools in separate places and not bunched up in a box or something. I plan to draw on a descriptive name on each drawer on the outside, so that I don't have to keep opening and closing the drawers only to figure out where I left stuff. :)

The cheap paint racks in the back stands on stacks of 2 x A4 copy paper (six in total), and the front racks are Vallejo paint racks. I like how the bottles of cleaner, thinner and flow enhancer is nicely stashed on the side.

I may or may not consider figuring out a way to make the racks sit more firm onto the drawers.
2. October at 13:03:49 Share

October 1, 2019

Today I received an A1 sized cutting mat that I had ordred recently. I was happy to see that they shipped it in a flat condition, and not rolled up as I imagined they might try. :D Shipped from UK and was delivered with just some thin transparent plastic around the whole thing.
1. October at 21:15:51 Share

September 29, 2019

Btw, care has to be taken with this kit, in order to avoid gluing shut the thin opening that is seen on each side of the hull. I had to add some styrene to make the build easier, as the large top side part was too wobbly when dry fitting. The newer release of this kit was seen for cheap in a store yesterday if anyone is into that, a very nice price apparently not knowing the shipping costs or the store itself. The store had a good review on this other modeling website I used to frequent, which I no longer contribute on as they haven't bothered arranging for using TLS/HTTPS connection for their new website.

Also, this kit probably has some exaggerated panel lines on the outside of the hull, which might as well be filled with putty I think.
29. September at 09:43:48 Share
I like how there is an option for "trashed" to one's kit box status. :D I have already trashed one kit.
29. September at 09:33:35 Share
I like how there is an option for "trashed" to one's kit box status. :D I have already trashed one kit. I should probably have kept the model for airbrushing practice, but too late now.
29. September at 09:32:40 Share

September 28, 2019

Tip: Ah, I just figured out how to make a "window-wipe" pattern on windows (like when dusty) on vehicles. So obvious now that I see other make this in a youtube video. Just place a piece of masking tape and add the dust, then remove the masking tape. *smacks forehead* :D
28. September at 11:18:55 Share
Urban Gardini Senior moment de luxe eh...
28. September at 11:54:25
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September 27, 2019

Weird idea: It just occurred to me watching youtube videos of paint shakers.. that for something like a Vallejo 17ml paint bottle or a 200ml primer bottle, you could maybe just use a 12V computer fan running off your computer, and somehow.. attached the bottle at the center, thus, the bottle should start spinning around and hopefully move the agitator ball you probably put inside. Good idea or not? :D

Or, create this special "drill bit" for your drill that only required the drill bit to hold onto a bottle, and then you could have the bottle stand out from the drill (more like stirring and not shaking), and you effortlessly squeeze the drill button, to see the drill spin up and down moving the agitator around.
27. September at 15:41:43 Share
Alex Or you could spend EUR 15.00 on Ebay for a nail polish bottle shaker (exactly the same one Mig sells for EUR 35.00) :)
27. September at 17:30:28
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Simple paint mixer experiment: (image) Using Trumpeter's paint mixer.

This is an unstable apparatus, and only works well if hold firmly, or possibly held in place in a vice or fixed to something solid so it doesn't move around. The tape part isn't the best (Tamiya 18mm masking tape).
27. September at 16:01:36 Share
Treehugger Hm, this works surprisingly well even if I simply hold it horizontally. I wonder how well the paint is mixed this way. Presumably the bottle will spin faster than the agitator ball inside. The 18mm masking tape also keeps the bottle still in place, it didn't come loose or snap (so far).

One could ofc just open the caps and stick the blender into the bottle, but then you have to clean up the paint smeared onto the mixing tool. I've seen the paint level in a humbrol bottle rise when using this thing inside it, I wonder if a thin Vallejo bottle would overflow when starting this thing up, inside a bottle that is fairly full of paint. Hmm. Outside shaking like in the image seems safer.
27. September at 16:06:32
Hans Robben Shop around for "nail polish shaker" on aliexpress. Should be able to get one for less then €20 including shipping. At least a decent solution that works (got one myself).
27. September at 16:11:41
Treehugger I don't know, I think I would *cough* prefer stirred not shaken. :)

I also found this product, which looks like a super shaker, but also with a super high price as well. :D
27. September at 16:20:10
Hans Robben That works for sure, same thing they use in laboratories to mix test tubes etc. Hefty price tag though.
27. September at 16:40:35
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Weird idea: It just occurred to me watching youtube videos of paint shakers.. that for something like a Vallejo 17ml paint bottle or a 200ml primer bottle, you could maybe just use a 12V computer fan running off your computer, and somehow.. attached the bottle at the center, thus, the bottle should start spinning around and hopefully move the agitator ball you probably put inside. Good idea or not? :D Maybe better if you could have a circuit that spinned the fan up and down, to make sure the agitator inside moved around.
27. September at 15:40:47 Share
Treehugger added a new project.
Albums: 1 with 100 images
In progress
1:72 80cm K(E) Railway Gun "Dora" (Hobby Boss 82911)
17. December 2018 at 14:50:33 Share
Treehugger So.. I hear there are corrections to be made to this kit. I better hop to it. In the beginning, I will rely on the videos by "Nigel's modeling bench" on youtube, and then I will have a look for myself when I get a book I ordered. I think I will do some other changes to the barrel.

Disclaimer: I don't quite know how to best correct the Hobby Boss kit, but I will try.

So far: I ordered a pack of six separate metal rails of the type O gauge zink silver flat bottom rails (Peco IL-7FB), something in between the possibly over-sized rails and the most realistic sized rails, to try make the new metal rail fit to the plastic sleepers and other track parts. I ordered a book in German with lots of photos which will arrive later this week. I have started to investigate shortening the barrel and tweak all the wheels. I will try to fix the shape of the eight carriages if I can figure out how, or at least add some missing detailing with styrene. I will try add details to the breech, and more. I might attempt to correct the lower part of the main body if it makes any sense to me. The height of the hand railing is also something that is suspected to be a little wrong.
17. December 2018 at 15:08:20
Dave Flitton Time to write the definitive "Building the Dora in 1/72"
26. December 2018 at 20:21:36
Treehugger It is a nice thought, but that would be a lot of work. The important thing for me is to try figure out the basic stuff. Although all of this might look complicated, doing one thing at a time will eventually lead to completion. :) A little here and there and the kit would be done in no time.

The most important correction is probably the shortening of the barrel, and I thought it was a good idea to make this drawing to bring some sense to the chaos of all the different variables that make up the carriages and how it all looks.

I will probably find more things to fix and I will try mention them, but I don't think I will make some definite build guide, unless maybe I can try keep track of the changes I make.
26. December 2018 at 21:13:52
Treehugger Edited.. Heh, I will have to keep scratching my head about this.

Uuuh. Looking at proportions of a drawing and the kit, now suspect that the kit is ca 0.72 m too short in the middle in total. As if someone put a ruler across that one drawing in a book, and measured the bottom length, but failed to see that the two pages showing the drawing is shortened because of the way the two pages are put into the book. Hm, I think that would also explain why the kit seemed too tall. The drawing that is spanning two pages at the center, would show undistorted height, but a too-short length, because of the two page span.

Comparing the kit top, to the drawing in the book, I might get lucky, as it seems that the top part is proportional to that drawing. Unsure about the ass end of the top side.

This is so exciting! :D It is close to 03:30 in the middle of the night, time to go to bed.
30. December 2018 at 02:18:07
Treehugger I am discovering more things. I have good hope of making all of these changes. Top part of cannon, is not supposed to start at the front edge, but have an inset of about 5mm according to photos.

In sketch version 20, I have arranged the numerous hand wheels in sequence, and the spans in between the hand wheels was made equal. I added a third hand wheel where I once thought there were only two, and fortunately it made sense to also widen main shape by 5 mm, perhaps two fixes in one if I am a little lucky.

I think, if I turn out to be a little lucky here, if extending the main shape by 1 cm in total (0.72m in 1:1), I can perhaps just extend the big floor on rear top, by same amount.

Full png file: (re-re-re-re-re-re-uploaded)

Note: The German book on railway cannons, on page 160-161, have a side view plan drawing, however this looks like a concept drawing, and not the real thing, so I don't trust the measurements given. Maybe just a related project.

Same drawing, but with the other half added to show the full length of the main shape.

When switching over from Photoshop to GIMP (free) the transparency in the layers got messed up and pixels for antialised lines for the wheels got shifted. Have to clean that up later. Unsure if I want to re-work the wheel area on the carriages more, as it would probably require further changes to the kit parts, which may or may not be difficult.
30. December 2018 at 14:34:52
Treehugger Hrm..

So.. looking at the plan drawing on page 160-161 in that German book on Railway cannons, it is all too clear that this particular drawing is not the size of the Dora cannon. More like 81% of the Dora (or, some parts are). And clearly the shape of the top carriages look off on that drawing.

The tallest part of the ends of the main body that stretches between all the carriages, are clearly as tall as a human. When I convert the numbers given on the plan drawings in the book, that end, is merely about 81% of what was expected, and low compared to the height of a human figure, even if that human figure on the photo was as low as 160 cm tall, the end would be no taller than 160, around 155 cm.

At least the kit part on the ends, looks about the correct size, in simply assuming that the human figure is 183 cm tall.

I can't help wonder if photos possibly could have been be doctored, or if maybe they used oddly tall/low figures on some of the photos intentionally.


The quest continues to try figure this all out.

I had to start making a larger drawing, to better get to draw those numerous hand wheels along the side of the main shape.
31. December 2018 at 13:05:59
Treehugger Soon, I will get to continue and eventually finish the detail drawings needed to make the desired changes to this kit, without making a mess. :) Project having been on pause for about a year now. The model itself will require some planning and changing, but it looks to me it will be fairly easy, if only a little time consuming, expecting to be re-using a lot of the kit parts. I think it will be worth it.

As for the most elaborate change, basically, the two larger parts will have to be reshaped a little, removing a lot of detaling, and re-building that detailing with styrene, starting with a flat strip of "metal plating" that goes across the whole thing on the sides which is also a base for all the numberous tiny hand wheels. From that, if placed accurate, the rest of the details will follow. I will consider 3D printing some of the numerous tiny parts, but eh, a bit expensive and doens't improve the look that much I think (the tiny round base for each hand wheel).

The tricky part is making the accurate drawing based on nothing by more or less unclear photos in a book.

For the 24 pistons on the sides, I have ordred Albion Alloy brass tubes in imperial measurement 5/32 and 3/16. This should be a nice fit, for having one cylinder fit into the other, and also fit the desired size of the pistons on the model. Didn't cost too much, at least being something affordable. One pack of each below, will do nicely.

ALBBT5 - Albion Alloys - 12" x 3/16" Round Brass Tube (3 pieces) # BT5 - £ 4.32
ALBBT4 - Albion Alloys - 12" x 5/32" Round Brass Tube (4 pieces) # BT4 - £ 3.94
27. September at 13:04:43
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Tip: I just assembled this rack for x75 Vallejo Paint bottles. I am very happy with this design. Had to use a rubber hammer to make the wooden parts click into each other, very gently. Also added wood glue on the joints afterwards, and making sure the rack was on a flat surface and pointing up at a good of a straight angle as I could. I filled the rack with bottles to add some weight to the structure as the glue dries now for the next few hours. I have another one I will assemble. Will probably put these on a couple of low boxes, so that I also can use some lower Vallejo rack at the front to avoid wasting space on this Ikea drawer furniture. :) Wood material is not as solid as the more expensive ones looks imho, but at least it did not break on me during assembly. Seems sturdy enough. (image of rack)
27. September at 09:09:51 Share
Holger Kranich Looks very handy to me!
27. September at 11:52:19
Munkyslut That's excellent!
The beauty of it is you could store anything, paints, glues, brushes, pipettes, solvents etc.
I'd like to build one myself, I think I'm going to add a slide out drawer in either side to hold extra stocks.
27. September at 12:03:04
Treehugger Quick note, this rack is not colored white, more like a light tan. I suppose I could airbursh on some white primer later on. I've been thinking of having some kind of rack for brushes and such, but I haven't managed to come to an agreement withmyself about what I really want. I have a long'ish desk surface with drawers on each side, so that works for now. :)
27. September at 12:12:25
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I think I've mentioned this before, but I would very much like to see a change in how the notifications are displayed. The following suggestion shows the buttons having different background colors, currently they share the same color background and replies to self is hard to notice this way it is working now. (suggestion illustrated with an image)
26. September at 13:45:43 Share
Holger Kranich Very nice! This is a good Suggestion!
26. September at 17:50:48
Treehugger Thank you! :) Presumably this would just require a little CSS magic, with a dedicated eh class or something for whatever types of text is listed in the notifications. The solution would be super easy if the text was already
a set of buttons, that way you can easily have several different looking buttons to get a nice contrast, with a simple and quick workout in a 2d editor, by simply changing the hue of the background color to something else.

So the way notifications work afaik, is that all listed notifications are basically unread notifications, so once you read one by opening a link in a new tab, it goes off the list of current and "unread" notifications.

Eh, being a novice webdesigner, if there is an option in the code for the various "text" options seen under notifications, then maybe replace the text with a piece of graphic. Translations would be required ofc, so different buttons in different languages, unless English is default somehow.
26. September at 19:53:19
Treehugger Thank you admin. This seems to work nicely now, when I looked at my screen just now a moment ago. :)
27. September at 12:09:22
Add comment »

September 26, 2019

<-- Went on a shopping spree on eBay the last few days, before new customs rules impose mandatory 25% VAT and customs fee on every little thing shipped from outside my country. It is important that expected shipping delivery times is well within the end of December, ideally before the beginning of the month of December.
26. September at 20:31:17 Share
Q: Re. Infini sanding sticks. I've ordered some Infinit sponge sticks for sanding. I am wondering if anyone has already tried splitting them in two or three to make the wide sanding sticks thinner and maybe without out the sanding stick coming unglue or something.
26. September at 20:24:27 Share
Q: Anybody know of a good modeling store with metal tubes measured in mm and not fractions of inches?

I am trying to find 4,5mm tubes in metal ideally, with a 4,0 mm hole ideally to fit a heh 4,0 mm cylinder/rod.
26. September at 16:51:41 Share
Thomas Bischoff I use Albion products Brass Micro Tube Assortment ...) (Albion Alloys SFT10, No)
Not 100% match but quite close

No Brass Micro Tube Assortment 305 x 4.0/5.0/6.0mm (3 Pcs.) (Albion Alloys SFT10)
26. September at 17:00:50
Murad ÖZER Treehugger hello, albion alloys probably has anything and everything in the dimension you are looking for however they are a manufacturer, not sure if you can directly buy from them. just do a search for their products on the internet you'll get a lot of online stores which is suitable for you.
26. September at 17:11:01
Treehugger Thanks for the input. Oooh, I wish I was rich, then I would have bought a milling/lathe machine. :D
26. September at 17:18:38
Treehugger Fiddling with my calculator, it seems I would be all set if I could find two Albion tubes with 6/32" and 5/32" diameter, however I only see the 7/32" and 5/32" tubes. :| According to my calc. the first two, with 0.014 thickness would pretty much fit very well inside each other (piston like item).
26. September at 17:31:49
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26. September at 13:39:44 Share
26. September at 13:39:22 Share
Tip: I just saw this seemingly nice ship building tip in a youtube video, for when adding various flags to ships.

So people are probably most used to finding decals or some thin pieces of paper in a kit box. If you do get decals, one can apparently place those decals on a bit of metal foil.. and then that flag should be fairly easy to form and maintain its shape. :)

I haven't tried this myself, but I thought it was an interesting solution.
26. September at 12:28:05 Share

September 25, 2019

Anybody know what the surface effect this has? From reading the description alone, it sort of sounds to me that it is more protectice than aesthetic, but I can imagine how a painted surface will look quite different if applying such "wax" to the surface. I can sort of imagine how the surface becomes shiny, but is that how it works, or is it supposed to be just protective? Is this anything like ending up with a gloss coat?
No Tamiya Modeling Wax (Tamiya 87036)
Tamiya's Modeling Wax is formulated specifically to beautify and protect your mo
Tamiya Modeling Wax with applicator
24. September at 13:32:45 Share
david I use this to clean the model after polishing. It gives a smooth surface and works a bit anti static. Great product.
24. September at 15:41:49
Treehugger What would happen if one were to applie this wax on a matte painted surface? It becomes glossy you think? Or, maybe getting a satin shine at least?
24. September at 17:23:07
david I think you Will have a problem with dust and leaving some residu when applying. Matt Paint isn't smooth enough. I'll try and let you know.
25. September at 09:42:02
Treehugger I remember smearing my thumb with grease off my forehead on a matte painted cannon barrel, painted with Humbrol matt paint, and it looked great. It gave it all a certain sheen. Super easy too. :D
25. September at 13:47:32
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September 24, 2019

Treehugger added a new photoalbum.
20. September 2018 at 13:54:10 Share
View full thread (14 Comments)
Treehugger Thanks everybody. :)

The white waterline was airbrushed on, white onto black, and using Tamiya's new white curves masking tape. Careful, that white tape for curves stretches, which might cause a couple of issues, to best to only let the tape stretch a little when making subtle bends and not trying to stretch it lengthwise across a ship's hull. Tricky and perhaps unwise to make sharp bends. Iirc 2mm wide tape. This was the first time I used this new tape so I did not know quite what I was doing.

It was only later that I realized that one of the prop blades had been knocked out of alignment. I didn't even notice it when I took the photos, heh, too busy taking photographs. Btw, I used the digital zoom from maybe 1m off, to avoid having a weird distortion to the perspective, should look more realistic this way.

For the red and white hatch, I simply made an oversized circular patch of regular masking tape, so that the tape then covered the entire domed shape. I think I used the hole, for airbrushing on red color, and then added three bits of triangular masking tape, and then airbrushed on white. Very happy with the result.


11. October 2018 at 16:14:19
Treehugger I remember scratch building the rear part of the two prop blade spinners, using bits of styrene. Happy with the result, as the molded part looked too thick, and hard to correct, so I just sanded that detail off and glued on bits of styrene, THEN, I sanded the styrene into final shape. :)
11. October 2018 at 16:20:32
Patrick Hagelstein Whauw! Thanks for the explanation!
11. October 2018 at 16:23:15
Treehugger Another photo showing me heh peeling off the masking tape from the water line. Very satisfying. :D

11. October 2018 at 16:25:09
Treehugger One think I learned by airbrushing such a large model, is that, once you airbrush on the black, it looks very nice, however from that point and onwards, it is easy to bump or scratch the painted surface, so maybe a good idea to add the first layer of gloss coat sooner rather than later.
11. October 2018 at 16:28:31
Treehugger A small comment that I thoguht was fun adding. I have since learned that the Soviets loaded their torpedoes into the ship via torp tubes that were above the water line. I see now that this matches what is seen on this kit. :)
23. September at 19:31:24
Slavo Hazucha Nice sub Reminds me of playing the "Cold Waters" PC game a year or so ago :) The home-made props really do a lot for bringing the proper scale feeling to this giant
23. September at 20:13:46
James C Awesome paintwork mate, it looks fantastic!
24. September at 20:49:52
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Treehugger owns this item
1:72 8,8 cm Flak Sd.Kfz. Vomag (Mars Models 172004)
8,8 cm Flak Sd.Kfz. Vomag
Mars Models 1:72
2015 | New tool
24. September at 20:03:43 Share

September 23, 2019

Treehugger added a new project.
23. September at 20:26:43 Share
Treehugger owns this item
1:48 F-16A Plus Fighting Falcon (Hasegawa 06109)
General Dynamics
F-16A Plus Fighting Falcon Royal Norwegian A.F.
Hasegawa 1:48
06109 (V9)
1993 | Changed decals
23. September at 20:25:27 Share
Treehugger owns this item
1:72 Vosper Motor Torpedo Boat (Airfix 05280)
Vosper Motor Torpedo Boat
Airfix 1:72
2004 | Changed box
23. September at 19:51:58 Share
Treehugger added a new project.
23. September at 19:47:33 Share
Buyer beware (in norway): Maybe you haven't heard about this yet, but as of 1. January 2020, imported goods will be VAT (usually 25%) taxed from 0,- and not from 350,- NOK as previously. I only learned about it two months ago, incidentally from a woman walking her dog on a country road. Also, you will have to pay some customs fee.

So.. if you order an item this year, but the items actually ends up arriving after new year's eve, apparently you risk having to pay a lot of money if you are expecting say 5-10 smaller packages as I understand it. An unpleasant surprise if that happens, having to pay extra for maybe all of the arriving items.

They claim that this change is due to wanting to improve local businesses, but I suspect that the two major post businesses, don't want to keep handling a lot of parcels from China/Asia for nothing (usually free shipping on a lot of stuff).

According to the article 10 months old (linked below), supposedly they intend to have a customs fee that is less than 100,- NOK (down from 150,-).

Right now, imported goods in general are (whenever the customs find the time to look at your parcel) taxed 25% VAT and adding 158,- NOK to the costs. As you might understand, when buying scale model kits this way, it is a big deal, if your kit ends up suddenly costing not 349,- NOK, but 597,- once the item cost + shipping cost equal 350 NOK :)

According to some other article I am looking at, the traditional mail service ("Posten" ;) expect Asia-import of small packages to drop by 90% after 1. January because of the changes.

Items from China usually arrive in 14-21 days, but record waiting time was iirc 71 days (small clay teapot). I remember one day, I had some 5-6 small parcels ending up in my mailbox at the same time when the mailman came by that day. (Article in norwegian.)
19. September at 16:03:20 Share
Andrew Rice Maybe the Norwegian government is running out of money?
23. September at 15:52:05
Nathan Dempsey I'm surprised this hasn't happened in the USA yet. With the trade issues with China that our government seems to have its amazing they haven't turned it around on the purchaser yet.
23. September at 16:00:49
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I find the lack of 'reviews' on this item disturbing. I only see "previews" listed. :) I would have assumed that this would be a very popular kit being from Tamiya and given the 1:32 scale (though somewhat expensive).
1:32 F-16CJ (Block 50) Fighting Falcon (Tamiya 60315)
F-16CJ (Block 50) Fighting Falcon
Tamiya 1:32
2004 | New tool
5. September at 15:48:42 Share
Patrick Hagelstein Maybe nobody dared to build this kit as it is so expensive.... :D
5. September at 15:58:28
5. September at 16:03:55
Donald Dickson II What? 140.00 isnt all that much. *choke*
5. September at 16:13:19
Andrew Rice I have built this model, and it came up a dream.
23. September at 15:53:53
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I ordered an A1.. cutting mat for my white Ikea table (Linnmon/Alex). :) The idea is to place a Benchvent extractor on the end, and use the mat for spraying on (I usually place some paper at the bottom) as the Benchvent extractor only has a cover that eh covers the top and the sides, but not the bottom.

I feel a little bad for buying a PVC product, but at least I expect to be using this for a long time, and without licking the surface. :|
23. September at 11:07:23 Share

September 22, 2019

Treehugger owns this item
1:72 PAK-40 (Roden 711)
Roden 1:72
200x | New tool
22. September at 17:36:42 Share
Treehugger owns this item
22. September at 17:36:10 Share
Q: Anyone having tips for long term storage of Vallejo paint bottles Air/Model Color?

I am slowly returning to the hobby and as I check all my paint bottles, I found some that had gone bad. It wasn't surprising to see a near-empy bottle having become dry and chunky, but I was surpised to see an unused bottle of Vallejo Air "Bright Brass" to turn into a single piece of hard mud inside the small bottle. :) This is the only type of paint bottle that was really bad. Iirc, I only added an agitator ball to the new bottle. I don't recall having added thinner or anything. I hope adding thinner, doesn't make the paint bottles go bad more easily.

What I am in the process of doing, is to check every bottle, i first try to shake them and get the agitator ball I put into all of them, to rattle. The Model Color bottles with thicker paints usually don't get to make a rattle noise but the Vallejo Air should do it if the bottle isn't too full, and is thin enough. For a few bottles that I suspect have gone bad, I open them up and stir around with a metal paint stirrer to get a good idea how good or bad the paint is.

A lot of may Vallejo Air and Model Color paint bottles are still ok. Some seem a little thick, but they might have been like that from the start. I have found 5 bottles I think so far that turned bad, having been unsured for maybe eh as long as 2 years now, I don't remember precisely when I took a break from the hobby.

So.. my plan is to open up every bottle and add some flow improver and maybe some thinner, and stir well. Any bottle with small dry bits in them, I will toss. I also mark these botteles with a dot and "9/2019" to indicate when I last checked them.

All my larger primer paint bottles seems good, but I haven't yet checked them closesly.

Ah, one more thing. All my paint bottles had been stored lying randomly around in a single box. I think I will try to keep all the paint bottle be standing. Presumably there is less "air" inside to come in contact with the paint that way, as opposed to a bottle that is lying flat.
20. September at 17:16:36 Share
Thomas Bischoff I regularly use Vallejo Air bottles older than 3-4 years without issues (and I use 10 year old Model Color bottles). I think the key is to store them upright. I also do not add any thinner to them because when using them you do no longer recall whether it was with or without thinner.
Whenever I buy paints I write the date on the bottle so I know how old the paint is.
I also have from time to time to throw away paint but usually this is only recognized when using them (you will have to test the color on a paint mule). By the way: the worst color seems to be for me Vallejo Black 057 - I usually have to trash this when it's about 2 years old.
20. September at 19:02:01
Treehugger Added: I thought at first I was about to announce having found the wrong content in a Vallejo Air bottle, however this "71.073 black" is metallic (!), very hard to see as it only says "metallic" in tiny writing on the Vallejo Air logo. :D I had no idea I had this metallic paint. Apparently I have two bottle of Vallejo Air Metallic: A bottle of 'black' and a bottle of 'steel'.
22. September at 10:32:13
Treehugger Added: I have started to go over all my Vallejo paint bottles again, and I am now in the process of cleaning the screw cap, the pop-on-cap and also looking for anything dried inside the nozzle opening in the bottle itself. I was surprised to see that an unused bottle of Vallejo Air had some large bit of paint that had started to harden and clogged the opening, though I only found that on one single bottle so far. :)

It is important to NOT jam a q-tip into the fragile rubber top-cap, or the rubber will split. Any resistance and the small opening will start to split. A wool needle is ok for clearing the small opening in the top-cap on the small bottles.
22. September at 17:34:28
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Tip for assembling this particular paint bottle rack: I am not sure I will use this as I bought this rack a long tiem ago, only now did I assemble it, and I think I will maybe prefer my bottles to stand vertically and not horizontally. But on to my advice.

Tip: This 120 paint bottle rack is tricky to assemble. Best use small clamps, but.. make sure you place a heavy object at the base, to make the two larger pieces come in good contact with the flat surface, then use clamps after gluing on things, one at at time. I used wooden glue and it looks like that works nicely.

I glued on the larger left side, before I finished gluing on the larger right side, as the final piece, and that final large piece was glued on, little by little, as it is connected to some 20 other parts. :D
22. September at 10:54:10 Share
Tip for assembling this particular paint bottle rack: I am not sure I will use this as I bought this rack a long tiem ago, only now did I assemble it, and I think I will maybe prefer my bottles to stand vertically and not horizontally. But on to my advice.

Tip: This 120 paint bottle rack is tricky to assemble. Best use small clamps, but.. make sure you place a heavy object at the base, to make the two larger pieces come in good contact with the flat surface, then use clamps after gluing on things, one at at time. I used wooden glue and it looks like that works nicely.

I glued on the larger left side, before I finished gluing on the larger right side, as the final piece, and that final large piece was glued on, little by little, as it is connected to some 20 other parts. :D
22. September at 10:53:17 Share

September 21, 2019

Treehugger owns this item
1:72 Schwerer Plattformwagen Type SSyms 80 (Modelcollect UA72043)
Schwerer Plattformwagen Type SSyms 80
Modelcollect 1:72
2018 | New tool
21. September at 14:57:13 Share

September 19, 2019

I am seeing two different variants for this kit, but with the same kit number. Both called UA72118 on the box art apparently, however one is a longer and I think more "correct" version, while the other one is a shorter version that only appear to show the flak cannon on the carriage. I am seeing this other variant on eBay.
1:72 128mm Flak 40 Anti-Aircraft Railway Car (Modelcollect UA72118)
WWII Germany
128mm Flak 40 Anti-Aircraft Railway Car
Modelcollect 1:72
2018 | New tool
19. September at 11:21:28 Share
Derek Huggett Suggest caution with some 'box tops' - some are actually pre-production or advertising images!
19. September at 11:28:48
Treehugger So, checking again, the link above, links to a review, that shows a different box illustration, showing the shorter version in the review. Just noticed this. So, I am inclined to think that either there are different versions around, or the scalemates box illustration is wrong. Some more reviews of this product would be nice, if only to get to see what the box art looks like and what is in the box.
19. September at 12:12:05
Derek Huggett Treehugger - Afraid it happens when a box top is copied from another source and is not an actual scan by one of us 'mates' (sorry, I don't own one of these myself, so can't correct it!). Looking at the Modelcollect web-site it appears only 1 version has been produced - the 'short' one, so the linked review looks okay. Just think how confusing it would be without 'Scalemates' database! :)
19. September at 13:22:53
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August 24, 2019

According to Florymodels on youtube per 23. Aug, Revell Germany is said to be distributing Bandai Star Wars kits. Unsure what range of stuff or what other things this might imply. Would be nice if total cost became a little cheaper, but I guess that is too much to hope for. I've been buying Bandai Star Wars kits off eBay so far.
24. August at 11:14:40 Share
According to Florymodels on youtube per 23. Aug, Revell Germany is said to be distributing Bandai Star Wars kits. Unsure what range of stuff or what other things this might imply. Would be nice if total cost became a little cheaper, but I guess that is too much to hope for. I've been buying Bandai Star Wars kits off eBay so far.

Youtube Video

24. August at 11:14:18 Share
According to Florymodels on youtube per 23. Aug, Revell Germany is said to be distributing Bandai Star Wars kits (or in the future, I don't know). Unsure what range of stuff or what other things this might imply. Would be nice if total cost became a little cheaper, but I guess that is too much to hope for. I've been buying Bandai Star Wars kits off eBay so far.
24. August at 11:12:28 Share

August 23, 2019

I saw on a video on youtube, where MIG gun metal pigment, was added onto stuff using a brush with rubber/silicone head, it looks great (shiny metallic surface), so I ordered some cheap brushes with silicone heads.
23. August at 13:30:24 Share
Treehugger owns this item
23. August at 13:28:20 Share

August 22, 2019

Treehugger owns this item
1:48 Saab JA 37/AJ 37 Viggen (Italeri 2785)
Saab JA 37/AJ 37 Viggen
Italeri 1:48
2018 | Changed box
31. July at 12:28:31 Share
Treehugger I think I will try get the corrected nose from Maestro off a Swedish website if the shipping cost is confirmed to be ok. Hm, maybe a cockpit set, but I am not sure. I thought it would be a fun re-scribing project (raised panel lines, triggered) on a difficult to find subject that doesn't seem too expensive. I moved recently and tossed my home made spray booth (so I don't just collect too much stuff at new place), will have to wait a couple of months to buy a new decent spray booth.
31. July at 12:31:36
Treehugger I have played around with various scribing tools, including three sowing needles, and eventually I recalled having watched Paul Budzik's video on scribing panel lines, in which he explains how you can scribe onto a primed surface, instead of into the plastic. I did a test on an old model with paint on it, and I thought the scribed surface looked much better when scribing onto a painted surface. I will try this method on this Viggen. :) I have ofc other projects I should finish before that.
22. August at 15:47:14
Patrick Hagelstein I love those Paul Budzik videos! He approaches modeling on a far more 'scientific' level. Curious to see your scribing results!
22. August at 16:17:11
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August 19, 2019

Q: What happens if you try to gently bend a rounded clear part after heating it up in hot water? Anybody know? Would it be possible to reshape a rounded clear part, maybe, squeeze the sides together a little?

I can imagine that clear parts are usually brittle.

I could try this out myself, but I thought I should first ask here.
19. August at 08:21:40 Share
Holger Kranich Well, i never did that. But i assume they will become brittle. So do it trial and error.
19. August at 09:40:40
Michael Hickey Also it might frost, I heated a piece of clear rod that was 8mm thick it bent nicely to the shape I wanted but it did frost at the bend.
19. August at 10:04:35
Treehugger Hm. I suppose I can just try it out with a piece of clear-sprue. I should have some of that lying around.
19. August at 13:40:15
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August 13, 2019

Treehugger wants this item
1:48 F-14 Tomcat Nose Correction Standard Vent (Steel Beach 48096)
F-14 Tomcat Nose Correction Standard Vent for Academy
Steel Beach 1:48
48096 (SBA48096)
200x | New tool
13. August at 08:32:32 Share

August 12, 2019

Q: Calling all Viggen experts. :) The maker of this resin part below points out that a small detail on the bottom side of the corrected nose, is not seen on all Viggen jets. Anybody have ANY photo of any Viggen with this flat square'ish looking detail at the bottom side of the nose? I can't find any photo of this detail anywhere.

Resin part in question: "SAAB 37 Viggen corrected nose by Maestro Models 1:48" (MMK4866)
12. August at 16:34:24 Share
Treehugger Seems the detail at the bottom of the nose is seen here in a drawing: [img1]
12. August at 16:39:14
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August 1, 2019

Treehugger owns this item
1:48 SAAB 37 Viggen corrected nose (Maestro Models MMK4866)
SAAB 37 Viggen corrected nose
Maestro Models 1:48
1. August at 19:53:58 Share
I'd like to see a group build involving a sea diorama. :) Would definitely push me to to make some kind of ocean/water diorama.
1. August at 18:19:25 Share

July 18, 2019

Hm, so I guess, looking at this one review, there is no photo etch for the railings for this particular kit? Seems like, sometimes, PE rails are included, and other times they are not.

Anyone know for sure if PE rails is a required aftermarket purchase for this kit?
1:350 Destroyer Admiral Chabanenko (Trumpeter 04531)
Destroyer Admiral Chabanenko
Trumpeter 1:350
2007 | Changed parts
19. June at 11:53:04 Share
Tim Jacobs There are no PE rails in this kit. There's a bare bones set with radar antennas and latice towers, but nothing else.
18. July at 04:02:31
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July 1, 2019

I am ready for this kit. :)
1:72 B-Wing Starfighter (Bandai 0230456)
B-Wing Starfighter
Bandai 1:72
0230456 (2380173)
2018 | New tool
8. May 2018 at 13:50:28 Share
11. June 2018 at 12:00:07
Kees Kleijwegt Ready too, I am! :)
11. June 2018 at 12:17:42
Arne Greve Is there no german shop, who have this kit?? :(
26. June at 10:52:54
slateman It should be no problem, as Revell starts to sell the Bandai kits here in Germany.
26. June at 20:10:42
Dave Flitton Me Want!!!
26. June at 20:33:20
Arne Greve @slateman Dann heißt es nur, Geduld haben????
1. July at 17:01:38
slateman Denke ja
1. July at 17:31:43
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June 28, 2019

Treehugger owns this item
1:1 Brain / Skull Combination (Lindberg 71301)
Brain / Skull Combination
Lindberg 1:1
199x | New tool
28. June at 17:44:15 Share
Ahaha. I just found this kit stashed away. 1:1 human skull. I appear to have the 71301 kit (written on the box), but afaik without the brain and with a different looking kit box. :D

I must have been reading Hamlet at the time.

Skull seems a little small, definitely not an adult size.
1:1 Brain / Skull Combination (Lindberg 71301)
Brain / Skull Combination
Lindberg 1:1
199x | New tool
28. June at 17:44:06 Share

June 26, 2019

I am currently moving to a place where I can get to have a dedicated work area, and not sit at this one desk, eating, surfing and building models.

However, moving my stash was troublesome as I live on the fifth floor. It helped to put the smaller kit boxes in a large box, but for the larger kits, I had to stack them and carefully bring them down to the ground floor. That is 100 steps up, and 100 steps down. :|

And even when I thought I had moved it all, there is still a small pile left to move. I did manage to put some of the finished models that I liked, into a box, and gently moved it to the new place.

I thought at first that I should drain the compressor for oil, I think I read that in a manual, but.. I decided against it and just put the compressor in the box it came in and gently moved the box around.
(Assorted Vallejo paint, glue and whatnot in a box, and compressor in another box. Don't remember what was in that third box there in the photo.)
26. June at 12:32:40 Share
Holger Kranich Thats a serious pile of skulls, äh kits! ;)
26. June at 12:40:15
Patrick Hagelstein In every model builder's life, situations like this will happen. I feel you!
26. June at 14:35:35
Slavo Hazucha We keep this industry going by consistent stash/build ratios of 15-20/1 :D
26. June at 14:53:37
Holger Kranich Yeah, we are part of the oil industry - we invest in oil based stuff. And we have a bunch of it. ;) A f*cking bunch!
26. June at 17:13:46
Treehugger At least this stuff has long shelf life, as opposed to eh fresh bread.
26. June at 18:43:49
Treehugger So many kits i want to build. There is a Takom twin flak gun there in 1:35 scale seen in the stash.
26. June at 18:45:26
Nathan Dempsey I think it has been said before, but it is always worth repeating: Buying and building models are two separate hobbies.
26. June at 18:56:22
Rui S Hehe. I think I have to agree with Nathan.
I also pass that a few months ago. But i think I was luckyer. I used to live in the third floor. But Without elevator ;) so i Lost count the time I had to go up and down :o
At least kits are lighter than books
26. June at 19:58:19
Patrick Hagelstein See, modeling ìs comparable to fitness! :D
26. June at 20:13:13
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June 24, 2019

Dear kit makers: Please stop molding the rain wipers onto the clear parts. It really is not necessary and just creates so many problems, and doesn't look that good anyway.
24. June at 07:32:33 Share
Holger Kranich True words!
24. June at 09:45:05
Rui S Good point...
24. June at 21:07:33
Jorge Ferreira I wan`t to vote too.
24. June at 21:18:44
24. June at 21:19:34
Add comment »

June 12, 2019

A 1:48 Zvezda kit of the Flanker would be nice. Presumably the Zvezda version would be more accurate than with other kits.
1:72 Sukhoi Su-30SM 'Flanker-C' (Zvezda 7314)
Sukhoi Su-30SM 'Flanker-C'
Zvezda 1:72
2019 | Changed parts
12. June at 13:33:30 Share

June 9, 2019

Q: Does anybody know of any canopy vac form part(s) for this kit? Could be interesting to make my own, but ofc I don't know how to do that.
I think I have read that a concave form shape is the best, as opposed to a convex one where the plastic goes on the outside, if I understood things correctly.
1:72 An-12BK-PPS (Roden 046)
An-12BK-PPS Special Soviet Aircraft for Electronic Counter Measures
Roden 1:72
2003 | Changed parts
9. June at 11:04:46 Share

June 8, 2019

What is wrong with 1:350? :) Too big kit box?
1:450 Queen Elizabeth II (AFV Club SE45001)
Queen Elizabeth II
AFV Club 1:450
2019* | New tool
8. June at 07:42:18 Share

June 2, 2019

Treehugger owns this item
1:35 D-20 152mm towed gun-howitzer (Trumpeter 02333)
D-20 152mm towed gun-howitzer
Trumpeter 1:35
2013 | New tool
2. June at 18:56:37 Share
Treehugger Someone showed the real thing firing in a youtube video and I thought, well maybe there is a plastic kit for that artillery. :) And it was. I thought I already owned this kit, but I couldn't find it, so there is a 1% chance I am buying this kit for a second time not knowing where I put the old kit box.
2. June at 18:57:32
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May 30, 2019

Treehugger wants this item
1:48 F-104G (Kinetic K48083)
F-104G Luftwaffe Starfighter
Kinetic 1:48
2019 | New tool
30. May at 14:09:33 Share

May 29, 2019

I won an eBay auction yesterday for a 1:35 kit known from from 'World of Tanks' as the 'waffle'. :)
It is apparently shipped by 'speedpak', and hopefully it isn't a scam this time.
7. May at 13:41:33 Share
Rene Scheiblich Nice
Not in the game anymore, but still on your desk. Obstructing the view on the monitor :D
7. May at 13:45:45
Treehugger Yes :)
I think I can expect the kit to include an aluminium barrel, unless they changed it. I think I can expect workable tracks as well (plastic).

One thing I might do something about, or just leave as is, is the seemingly missing platform for the loading crew. Presumably, there would have to be a seat for the gunner and any other crew used to operate the gun, but perhaps the loading of shells was done in some other way that didn't require a crew platform on the turret. This tracked vehicle is known for being an autoloader.
7. May at 13:58:58
Nigel According to the wiki at
"[it's] An entirely fictional tank created out of various components from the German parts bin cobbled together and filed to fit"

So the loading of shells was done by AI without the need to rest its bum! ;)
But it would be easy enough to construct something out of that German parts bin, I guess.
7. May at 14:12:11
Treehugger Looking at a photo showing this model next to the Tiger II, I like how the E-100 waffentrager is larger.
7. May at 14:15:57
Treehugger Well shit, the eBay seller is long longer registered with eBay, I guess this auction was bullshit all along.
Edit: Tracking show item having arrived at local airport 14 days ago, and local mail service 7 days ago, but then nothing, like with all scam sales from China in my experience. Usually item is always returned to sender, without being delivered to me, even though it appears to arrive at my country. Who knows what was shipped in the first place.

Oddly enough, I ordered some reflective tape, which DID arrive, and the tracking for that shipment (letter) was nonsensical.
29. May at 17:20:12
Nigel Bummer :(
29. May at 18:00:10
Rui S If i remember the ONLY kit i've got from China took more than 3 months to arrive to Portugal. It came by ship.
29. May at 21:44:47
Chris Greathouse That waffle tank looks way awesome! Too bad your China buy was a bust, sorry mate... happens to the best of us.
29. May at 21:51:28
Add comment »
I just now saw somebody's gallery for a warship, with bits of ICE around the ocean diorama. What a nice idea! I will want to try that some time, after figuring out how to make an ocean diorama. :)
29. May at 08:29:07 Share
I haven't seen 1:35 kits from them until now. :)
1:35 E75 Heavy Tank "King Tiger III" (Modelcollect UA35013)
German WWII
E75 Heavy Tank "King Tiger III" with 105mm Gun
Modelcollect 1:35
2019* | Changed parts
28. May at 15:17:37 Share
Nigel Some of their FOW kits are 1:35.
Nice to see that they're keeping their feet firmly planted in the air with their choice of prototypes though! ;)
29. May at 07:57:51
Add comment »

May 22, 2019

New tool? Sounds interesting. Would be fun reading a review for this new kit.
1:350 Tovaristsch (Aoshima 057155)
Tovaristsch U.S.S.R. 3-Masted Bark
Aoshima 1:350
057155 (11)
2019 | Changed box
22. May at 19:06:23 Share

May 16, 2019

Treehugger wants this item
1:144 McDonnell Douglas KC-10 Extender (MikroMir 144-zzz)
McDonnell Douglas KC-10 Extender
MikroMir 1:144
2019* | New tool
16. May at 12:23:09 Share
Interesting. I hope the top rear intake is adequately shaped on the inside. I have some similar kit, but my kit in particular just have a hollow and empty shape for the rear intake.
1:144 McDonnell Douglas KC-10 Extender (MikroMir 144-zzz)
McDonnell Douglas KC-10 Extender
MikroMir 1:144
2019* | New tool
16. May at 12:22:45 Share

May 14, 2019

Q: What do modelers do with rubber tyres on ground vehicles in kits? Do you airbrush on rubber color, or do you just add weathering?
14. May at 19:40:19 Share
Thomas Kirschbaum i paint it with color or weather with varnish. i heard, it is a secure for outfloating the "Weichmacher" from the rubbers.
14. May at 19:45:34
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May 11, 2019

Treehugger wants this item
1:35 Mk.V Male (Meng Model TS-020)
British Heavy Tank
Mk.V Male
Meng Model 1:35
2015 | New tool
11. May at 08:13:48 Share

May 10, 2019

Treehugger wants this item
1:48 F-16XL-2 Experimental Fighter (Kinetic K48086)
F-16XL-2 Experimental Fighter
Kinetic 1:48
2019 | Changed parts
10. May at 18:00:24 Share

May 9, 2019

Q: Does anyone know if this kit can be built into an Argentinian Skyhawk? Those don't have the hump back. Can't really tell from the manual, if there are unused parts to adequately replace the hump back on the model (apparently, there is a cavity near the tail fin, unsure if there is a part that fills that cavity).

I guess the decals for Argentinian military would have to be purchased separately.
1:48 A-4M Skyhawk (Hasegawa 07233)
A-4M Skyhawk (U.S.M.C. Attacker)
Hasegawa 1:48
07233 (PT33)
2004 | Changed parts
8. May at 12:19:01 Share
View full thread (15 Comments)
Nathan Dempsey Holger - Part A13 is definitely the part that fills the gap when not using the hump.

Treehugger - top fin shape should be curved. This part is included in my kit on the A sprue. Canopy should match early variants and be slightly less bulged. This canopy is probably included in Hasegawa C model Skyhawks. The curved rod-like antennas on the side of the tail fin were resin parts in the Hasegawa special Argentine kit.
8. May at 15:36:32
Nathan Dempsey Also B/C model Skyhawks had a much shorter nose.
8. May at 16:02:12
Augie Yeah, no this is not the Skyhawk you are looking for to make into Argentinian one :)
8. May at 16:04:14
Nathan Dempsey Thanks Augie. I did forget to answer the original question LOL :)
8. May at 16:18:10
Treehugger Oh, shucks. Well, I'll look for something else then. :| But thanks for the feedback.
8. May at 17:33:13
Augie Hehe no worries, I didn't realise I channelled Obi-Wan when I did lol
8. May at 20:26:16
Nathan Dempsey Grrrr...
Got me looking up Hasegawa C model Skyhawks on Ebay because I want to do a pair of Argentine Scooters myself. That special edition kit is going for a min of $100US!
9. May at 03:14:28
Rv Hello,
There are different types of argentinian skyhawks:
- Falklands era: A-4Q/P, based on early A-4B/C with specific antennas.
- Modern era: A-4AR, based on the A-4M, with a modified nose and specific radio/ECM antennas. A conversion set exists:
A-4AR Fighthawk (Condor Decals 48030, 1:48)

1:48 A-4AR Fighthawk (Condor Decals 48030)
9. May at 07:06:55
Add comment »

May 7, 2019

It looks like there is a serious flaw or something weird going on with my albums. Lots of photos missing. And this must have happened somewhat recently I would think, not related to the website crash event from previously.
7. May at 12:07:24 Share
It looks like there is a serious flaw or something weird going on with my albums. Lots of photos missing. And this must have happened somewhat recently I would think, not related to the website crash event from previously.
7. May at 11:37:49 Share
Ooh, what is this? :) I would guess a 30-35 cm long model.
1:5000 Star Destroyer (Lighting Model) (Bandai Spirits 5057625)
Star Destroyer (Lighting Model) First Production Limited
Bandai Spirits 1:5000
5057625 (2466992)
2019 | Changed parts
4. May at 13:55:55 Share
Roger Lustenberger True. But if it would be twice as big, then it would be worth the size! And impressiv ;) imo
4. May at 18:16:11
Treehugger These Bandai Star Wars models are nicely detailed. :)
4. May at 19:26:21
Roger Lustenberger Absolutely!worth the price
4. May at 20:40:53
Demigod Word on the street is there will be the lighted premium version and a cheaper version without the lighting kit.
5. May at 09:56:14
Jdalianis @ Demigod: Yes the lighted version is about 50% more than the unlighted one. The lighted one is supposed to include a special booklet and have clear parts (duh!).

If Bandai had done this a year and a half ago I would have grabbed one. As it is I spent a lot of time super detailing and lighting the Revell kit (which is slightly bigger than Banadai's) and then I bought the Zvezda with all the Resin and PE aftermarket items along with a lighting kit. The Zvezda is almost twice the size of Bandai. I love Bandai and have all their smaller Star Wars kits but this came too late for me. I will pass.
7. May at 05:21:10
Add comment »

May 5, 2019

Treehugger marked this item as on order
1:35 Waffenträger auf E-100 (Amusing Hobby 35A026)
Waffenträger auf E-100
Amusing Hobby 1:35
2018 | Changed parts
5. May at 17:44:47 Share

April 28, 2019

Looks mysterious. What is this? I think I know what a protocol droid is, but maybe this isn't just C-3PO I am thinking.
1:12 0-0-0 Protocol Droid (Bandai Spirits 5057716)
0-0-0 Protocol Droid Star Wars Celebration 2019 Exclusive
Bandai Spirits 1:12
2019 | Changed parts
28. April at 09:56:46 Share
Phileas Triple-Zero comes from the Doctor Aphra comics. It is a protocol droid of the same type as C-3PO. And a torture specialist. I guess it is just the C-3PO kit in black. Would be cool if they add extra hands like this: [img1]
28. April at 15:12:41
Add comment »

April 25, 2019

Treehugger owns this item
1:35 Henschel Typ 33 D 1 (Revell 03098)
Henschel Typ 33 D 1
Revell 1:35
03098 (80-3098)
2012 | Changed decals
25. April at 06:16:20 Share

April 23, 2019

Q: Can a metal drill bit be used to gently grind off plastic? Or, must one try use some kind of drill bit with sanding paper on instead of a metal drill bit?

There are two things I would like to achieve with a drill. One is simply removing plastic, the other is very finely sanding off the plastic on the surface, to create a subtle dent.
23. April at 10:40:53 Share
Dave Morris Yes, all my drill bits are metal :)
23. April at 19:43:13
23. April at 21:17:24
James C I use one of these for doing exactly that. Very handy little tool...
23. April at 21:38:06
Add comment »

April 20, 2019

Treehugger owns this item
1:35 Henschel Typ 33 D 1 (Revell 03098)
Henschel Typ 33 D 1
Revell 1:35
03098 (80-3098)
2012 | Changed decals
20. April at 18:35:50 Share
I just realized that it would be nice having this particular Ikea Alex drawer for keeping serveral WIP project stowed away in flat and wide drawers. :)

Width of the drawers should be 60cm or so.
20. April at 12:22:09 Share


2019-04-20 12:22:09

2016-12-08 20:43:11




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