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added a new photoalbum.
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Thanks for the feedback! Though I can see at 4:20 that one of the F-14's nose gear aren't fully compressed, seems the shiny metal isn't visible when viewed directly sideway, but can be seen from the front apparently. I can see a little bit of shiny metal. Anyway, I get to use some metal on the rear landing gear, and then I guess a little bit on the nose gear.
17. May, 10:05
A project by Bernhard Schrock gave me an idea for the nav lights. I could simplly use a round piece of clear plastic, and then.. add a shaped piece of masking tape to shape the light.
17. May, 18:07
aires cockpits looks simply amazing... but they tend to be a hell to fit... my experience with them? they look great, but you need sanding, sanding and more sanding..... and the more
19. May, 20:55
Putting the Aries cockpit in my Lighting was a nightmare. I like Neo Mega cockpits, they almost drop right in.
19. May, 21:13
@Clifford, is the detail as good as Aires ones?
19. May, 22:32
In my limited experience, preparing the resin parts is fairly trivial but one must be careful. One really have to use the right tools, like a thin saw intended for such purpose (I think the saw I have is for sawing resin figures' feet off the molded base or something).
A challenge, and some tedious work with resin canopies, seems to be this work that goes into cutting away the excess plastic on the model, such that you get to replace the plastic with resin detailing. Little by little, is my advice, and optionally glue styrene back on if you end up with gaps, and try again.
I think I will paint the major resin parts separately, and then use superglue to fit them all together before installing into the main kit part. Obviously, dry fitting is important to avoid making a mistake.
I just remembered, I had to sand some of the larger Aires parts thinner, to fit inside the largest resin cockpit part. I believe it is common that resin tend to shrink a little, so maybe difficult to always make all resin parts fit with themselves.
20. May, 14:35
@ Spanjaard, I think they are. They just don't do quite as many as Aries, but the ones they do are nice and usually about 1/2 the price or less than Aries. I used one on my Viggen, and I have several for my SU-27's both single and twin seat. As well as for my Jaguar's Mirage F-1's and 2000's.
21. May, 02:11
thanks a lot Clifford, i wonder how it would fit my Tarangus...
21. May, 10:34
May 18, 2020
owns this item
This kit even has some photo etch in it, which is a nice surprise.
18. May, 09:27
May 17, 2020
Anyone familiar with this Academy F-15 kit? Not happy with their F-14 in 1:48, so hoping this F-15 later on might be ok. I already have a vacuum canopy for the Academy F-15C in 1:48.
F-15 C/D Eagle (Academy 12257, 1:48)
Never had any good experiences with Academy. Especially their decals. I hope this one is better for you.
17. May, 11:05
3.6 Roentgen - Not Great Not Terrible. Go for GWH or Hasegawa.
17. May, 11:33
I feel a little bad for posting several updates during a day, because it pushes the entires for finished models further down that what good is I think.
Perhaps an idea to allow the viewer to decide if he/she can both: look at only finished projects only, and also a mix of finished projects and work-in-progress updates? Or is maybe that feature already a thing?
will attend Scalemates F-14 Tomcat Group build 2020
So I learned just now, that I have to actually click a couple of buttons to become listed, via a button found on the group build page linked above.
17. May, 07:47
May 16, 2020
May 15, 2020
Sigh, a local online toy store that sells scale model kits specifically, have some 50% higher price on Tamiya's second kit version of the new F-14 kit when comparing it to the first version. Surreal prices on some of the things.
And some $66 (equivalent) for a 1:144 AC-130 Hercules kit from Minicraft is just stupid.
I added the required album title, but I am not listed as having joined the group build. Was I supposed to do anything else?
May 10, 2020
Q: Using photo etch parts, is there a trick to make the brass look burnt, without painting the metal parts?
I know you have corrosive liquid, but I don't think that gives the desired result if just rusting the brass.
I am unable to add a background image to a newly started project.
Any ideas why? Is this common for more than me today? File should be small and being a .jpg type of image.
Update: After having created an album, I am getting an error when uploading the same image to the album.
Just tested it: Same issue. Tested with .jpg .
Error: "Couldn't copy the file!".
10. May, 14:29
10. May, 14:43
You are welcome!
Now, i also can not upload pics to an album: "upload failed".
PS: Sry, have just read scalemates is working on a solution...
10. May, 15:15
May 2, 2020
I think I picked the wrong day to quit waiting for somebody to make a new 1:48 scale Hind
20. December 2019, 06:45 Share
Finally this kit appear to be out on sale.
2. May, 13:36
Q: Does anyone have a suggestion for a new mold and nicely detailed car model kit? I guess 1:24 scale or somesuch.
I could try some older model, but I am a little tired of fixing older models.
Trucks would be nice as well, but I haven't found many truck model kits of trucks that I like. :| Seems like they are mostly semi trailers, which I don't like. I like trucks to have 10 wheels or more and not being semi trailer trucks.
2. May, 13:27
April 27, 2020
April 25, 2020
I am interested in this.
Pity they didn't include R.A.A.F. decals
25. April, 07:34
April 23, 2020
Has anybody tried this product? It is a metal chrome polishing powder.
23. April, 12:48
Well, shit, that is news.
But, what do you think of it? I guess I am wondering just now nicely this goes down (or not). I guess the appeal might be if this could be a substitute to chrome paint, but perhaps that is wishing for too much.
23. April, 15:16
Hi tree bugger. I use the same brand, but the metal variant instead of chrome. It works quite well. I put some of the stuff on my finger or paper towel. Then you polish it out.
23. April, 15:28
Looking into the box now, it looks like a nicely molded and nicely detailed kit.
Option for all missile doors open, or closed (separate big part).
added a new photoalbum.
26. March, 17:16
Heh, somehow I find the covid-19 stuff fascinating, I have several models prepared for airbrushing on primer paint.
Hopefully I will get my ass going on this, and start priming this next.
This kit is ok, but isn't entirely clean, so although I could just glue things together, I want to try clean up the detailing. Mostly ok, but need a little bit of work imo. For example, the starboard plane by the props, isn't symmetrical with the left side one, easy fix.
26. March, 20:06
I listened to a documentary on youtube about this particular submarine (went to the north pole) while finishing the work on the tail this evening.
6. April, 18:19
16. April, 07:20
I wish there had been a kit of this sub in 1:144 scale. I have really come to like the looks of it.
16. April, 08:16
be interesting if you build a 21 and put them side by side
16. April, 16:05
What 21 sub did you have in mind? I know there is the German Type XXI sub, but is that the one you meant?
17. April, 12:20
Yes.A lot of design cues were taken off the type 21 by both western and warsaw pact designers.
17. April, 14:44
17. April, 18:12
PE looking good and nice work on the rudders
18. April, 13:37
Looking good. Great sub.
19. April, 03:14
21. April, 22:43
April 21, 2020
added a new photoalbum.
21. February, 13:55 Share
21. February, 18:46
21. February, 19:59
Anyone wanting to do a more accurate build, have to be very careful with the "holes" on the sides. I think the openings are placed too high on the side, such that, the bottom part of each hole should perhaps lie flush with the deck, such that water can just fall off the deck through the openings. I made the holes a little larger so that they are flush with the deck at the bottom side, but, that is just enough to make the PE fit the new opening. There is another detail to watch out for. The PE itself, on the inside of the railings, will create an edge, which shouldn't be there, as I suspect the PE placement has to match the hole, such that water can roll off the deck unhindered. My guess anyway. So I ended up making the holes a little too large, but good enough for me.
I will buy a glassfiber pen next week, so that I can gently scratch off the excessive amounts of superglue around the photo etch parts.
21. February, 21:44
I want to quickly point out that, cleaning up superglue with a glassfiber pen, isn't as easy as I thought. Half the issue is actually seeing with my own eyes if I have finished ceaning up or not. Also, the pen is an abrasive and will dig into the plastic eventually it seems.
28. February, 18:18
Good tip, Treehugger. I'll keep that in mind, for future reference.
28. February, 23:54
That looks like a ship and a clean and sharp start on it. Count me in!
1. March, 19:31
Photo 6: I was worried I had messed things up by using too much superglue, but I see now that having added a layer of primer paint, it looks like now, it is easier to clean up the excess cyanoacrylate glue, using this glass fiber pen. Ideally I should have been more careful gluing on each piece of PE by using masking tape, but too late to change that now I guess.
21. April, 10:07
April 20, 2020
It seems to me that maybe MikroMir's plastic sprues, are fun to stretch when held over a candle light. Stretches forever it seems.
No idea if the plastic is having some other quality to it, or me being a little lucky. I ended up with this near 40 cm long "antenna wire".
20. April, 20:17
April 19, 2020
Q: Is there any way to clean off long time dried Humbrol enamel paint from some piece of plastic?
I've heard of brake fluid, never tried it myself though
19. April, 18:46
Brake fluid, oven cleaner. YT has loads of vids for it
19. April, 20:02
One word.. Detol. Fill bowl, submerge kit and leave.. will just slide off the model, trust me used it on the Ford Bronco.
19. April, 23:10
There is an opportunity for me to buy the M198 artillery in 1:16 scale, but.. I sort of don't like the looks of this artillery model. I wish there was one for the newer M777 artillery.
April 15, 2020
April 14, 2020
I think I just learned, that if you have a piece of PE leftover, you can scratch a line across it, and then 'snap' the part in two, instead of trying to cut the PE.
Apparently this works. But best to clamp the area agains the cut line, to avoid bending the whole thing.
April 10, 2020
Tip: If you need to use superglue (cyanoacrylate) to glue a small piece of photo etch, maybe handing off some surface or whatever, you can first place a tiny ball of "blutack" or equivalent, and then just jam one side of the PE part into the "bluetack", then glue the part that is in the open. That way, the PE part is held in place, and you can easily see if the PE part is at the correct spot and angled properly.
Correction: I tried this just now. Works ok, but make sure one doesn't get "bluetack" under the photo etch. And make sure you clean the "blutetack" off afterwards.
March 20, 2020
Suddenly the idea of buying kits isn't interesting anymore for the foreseeable future. Local currency currently devalued to about 70% of what it was, compared to Euro and USD.
Or, now things would be 30% more expensive for me. Not that I need to buy stuff atm though.
20. March, 15:24
Tip: For gluing on photo etch, it might be much easier for sake of accuracy, simply adding a piece of masking tape to hold the PE part in place, especially larger parts.
As one may expect, the full or reduced adhesiveness of the masking tape could perhaps be problematic in itself, if ripping or risk bending a more fragile piece of photoetch.
March 17, 2020
Interesting. I like how smaller models don't take up too much space, so no 1:48 B-52 for me. But.. how accurate is it?
1/144 scale large Aircraft still need plenty of space. Time will tell how accurate this mold will be.
10. January, 11:42
Judging from their recent B-1B release, I hope accurate and extremely precise in molding and assembly. I am really looking forward to this kit. R/ Dutch
17. March, 16:34
March 16, 2020
Q: Any tips for finding stuff to use as 'nose weight' that isn't an afermarket product AND isn't toxic lead?
Have a Look on EBay and Amazon for Steel balls.
You can get them in different Diameters.They also available
at Airsoft Shops.
16. March, 18:25
March 13, 2020
March 12, 2020
March 10, 2020
Finally a 1:48 scale model. Was there ever one from other kit makers? Although I don't fancy stealth jets, I really hope this isn't going to be some $100 kit. I wouldn' t think so, but a lot of new 1:48 kits from other brands seems so expensive imo.
2020* | New tool
11. December 2019, 10:40 Share
View full thread (14 Comments)
14. December 2019, 09:39
Not sure if you guys are seeing the price, but one stores shows this kits at nearly $200! To me, for a kit like this, unless it has motors that they forgot to mention, there is no way I would pay that much for it, not even close.
9. March, 10:48
Some stores have laughably high prices, so that one store I see can't possibly be close to some expected retail price.
9. March, 11:02
I definitely expect this to land in the 50-€ range...
9. March, 12:01
Considering it's zvezda i think it will be quite cheap, their pe-8 kits go for arround 20€ and are huge
9. March, 12:05
I have absolutely zero experience with this company, does anyone know their level of detail, quality of the plastic and accuracy of the scale? I keep reading that their other kits are cheap, or preferable, inexpensive is a kinder word. Unless they really are cheap, bad fit, lots of marks on visible surfaces, lousy decals, things like that, which make a build go from pleasant to a hair pulling, fingernail biting nightmare. The saying "you get what you pay for" usually holds true in about 90% of the consumer market. I like inexpensive, as long as the quality still remains high.
9. March, 21:34
I've only built some of Zvezda's 1:144 kits, but they go together nice. In fact I already have approval from the wife to buy this kit whatever price it comes out. She knows I want it that bad
The Sea Vixen and Cessna O-2 are also on this pre-approved list.
10. March, 01:04
Nice, always good to have the bosses approval! I have tried a different tactic on mine, so far, I think it's working too. Instead of being in charge of the budget this month, I gave her free reign to do it herself. Within three days, she said "I finally understand why you are always stressed", and the guilt of having the control, means she is much more willing to spend on me, than herself, because she feels greedy????
Two kits and three tool packs later, and I am all smiles without the stress! Until next month, when I have to control the budget again☹️.....
10. March, 10:31
March 9, 2020
I just learned something like this existing. A japanese transport jet.
March 8, 2020
Seems that, this kit has a really weird tail hook solution, because it looks like there is a part missing. Manual accounts for all parts, but this one part is supposed to cover a large hole, which is perhaps the only noticeable flaw with this kit. Really weird.
Instead of gluing on the arrestor hook, I will snip off some plastic, and paint it, and snap it onto its location, instead of gluing it on together with this other part.
From what I can see in the instructions, the tail hook you install in step 15 consists of two parts (22 and 23) that are attached to eachother in step 9, covering the hole completely. I built an earlier boxing of this kit a few years ago and didn't encounter this issue.
8. March, 09:26
This is what it looks like. Not very intuitive.
The engine also are hollow, so all a little simplistic.
Basically, one can't just place this one part in place, you have to make sure you glue one end, somehow, else the part just falls into the hollow model.
Btw, I used sprue goo inside the engine openings, where there isn't much plastic, which also helps hide the seams. I am happy with the result:
8. March, 11:13
March 5, 2020
March 4, 2020
March 3, 2020
Q: How do I view my private messages? I can't find any button for this.
Click their name (go to their profile), click "actions" at the top of the screen, and then send a pm
3. March, 15:35
I already got some pm's, but how I view those?
3. March, 15:39
3. March, 15:50
Thank you. Though imo this was tedious and confusing, but after I clicked the notifications button and also the "see all notifications" at the bottom, I was able to quickly find my pm of interest in this much shorter list.
3. March, 16:19
March 2, 2020
added a new photoalbum.
2. March, 12:38
2. March, 12:42
A shame about the props, but the rest of the build looks great
2. March, 12:47
I want to point out that I never relied on masking the side windows the way one would expect. What I did was to add primer and paint just around the small window openings on the two hull parts on the sides, then gluing on the small windows, then adding a rough mask, then gluing the parts together. I nearly worked but I wasn't careful enough and had some issues with overspray with grey on grey leaving a subtle edge of sorts, but in theory, it would have worked imo. Ideally I should have avoided letting any paint get near the side window areas so as to avoid spraying on top of the rough masking tape covering the windows. The gloss coats just went over the side windows. I did not dare covering the big canopy piece with gloss coat. Any speck of dust or particles and it would look bad imo. On the flip side, adding a gloss coat over masking tape, seems to have the stuff build up against the masking tape edges, which sucks. I should try being more careful not spraying any more paint around masking than strictly needed.
2. March, 13:03
Even with your build issues, the finish came out well. I have this kit, but I want to build it in different markings than provided in the box. I suppose I'll get around to it some day.
2. March, 14:15
2. March, 16:39
Suggestions for other builders:
1) Consider doing something with the stabilizers/elevators, which connects to the tail, but actually has this flat surface. This flat surface is molded onto the tail, which doesn't look the best, it should be connected to the stabilizers/elevators.
2) Decal sheet has some obvious errors. Also the yellow prop warning on the hull is supposed to be angled to be parallel with the tilted engines for anyone in doubt.
3) I used a nose weight of 30g iirc, at the nose and around the cabin area at the front, the manual suggests 40g. Note: I had the loading ramp closed.
4) Try make sure you get all the four engines tilted properly, so don't sand off too much plastic here and there.
5) The decal sheet have dark grey "A400M" decals on it. It would be important to make the paint lighter than the darker decals. I couldn't figure out if the decals were too light in color or not compared to photos.
1. March, 23:00
Also, I found out that, one can't glue on the wheels, if you already glued on all the other parts for the landing gear and also all the aircraft hull parts.
What would work, is gluing on the wheels + the next big part and put those two things into the landing gear bay.
Once can ofc glue it all together, but that would make painting the wheels tricky, unless you want to put masking tape all over each wheel, which seems tedious.
2. March, 09:54
2. March, 12:20
March 1, 2020
I am pleasantly surprised by MIG wash product. What surprised me, is the enamel comes off by very gently rubbing it off, after it being applied on top of a nice gloss coat. I expected to have to use a moist cotton bud, but that doesn't seem to be necessary.
I made sure to avoid using neither plain black, nor dark grey, so I mixed light grey and dark grey for this model. Sadly, there is too much going on with the model paint layer wise, so I don't get a 100% result because of how my panel lines aren't deep enough in places.
February 29, 2020
..a jetliner kit, without any landing gear on the sprues.
29. February, 21:49 Share
February 28, 2020
What now Revell kit?
Heh, I have this piece of 'A400M' decal, that won't come entirely off the decal sheet. The whole thing is stuck on the paper, where the left part of the M starts.
Update: Aah, the last part came off eventually, but I had to tug at it. What was wrong? Could maybe a greasy finger tip have tainted the decal sheet, such that the decal don't soak up water well enough?
28. February, 11:10 Share
What now Revell kit?
Heh, I have this piece of 'A400M' decal, that won't come entirely off the decal sheet. The whole thing is stuck on the paper, where the left part of the "M" is.
28. February, 10:57 Share
February 27, 2020
For the first time in years, I am fiddling with a decal sheet.
Mucho frustration applying decals and even though I have all the tools for this type of work, I am out of practice. :| Also, no way I am doing all the decals in one sitting. This is going to take forever.
So I have a Humbrol Gloss coat on this model, and as water drops comes onto the gloss coat, the gloss coat go much lighter, as if reacting with the gloss coat. This will dry up and look ok eventually. Tiny patches of paper towel works nicely for sucking up excess water, without disturbing the placement of the decals, sucking up water by capillary reaction.
Apparently it is a good idea to make sure the decals are floating well off the decal paper, or risk having some kind of adhesive that doesn't help when trying to place the decals onto a model. The larger the decal the worse it gets it seems.
I don't remember decals sheets taking this freaking long to loosen the decal. With this A400M Revell kit, it seems it takes forever for the decal to loosen up. I suspect that having warm water might help, but I can't keep refilling the bowl with warm water, and I have to rely on room temperature warm water.
Oh, Revell why must you place large intricate decals in the middle of the damn decal sheet, making it more difficult to cut out?
27. February, 09:55 Share
Warm water surely helps.
Of the deals are that sticky, placing some decal softener on the intended spot helps as well
27. February, 14:21
Wim van der Luijt
I use something this to keep the water warm....very low tech and it works
27. February, 14:26
Haha, interesting. A candle holder with a tray.
27. February, 17:26
Wim van der Luijt
well...if it can keep a teapot or food warm, it wil work for your decals...there are also usb mug warmers btw, but I have no clue as to how warm these get...I stick to the low tech option
27. February, 18:14
Tip: If using the typical cleaning pot for your airbrush, I personally like having a ball of paper tissue inside the pot, to avoid the pot collecting fluids that discolor the glass. That way, you can easily keep the pot looking clean, and no fluids to deal with.
27. February, 17:27 Share
February 26, 2020
Having restarted my hobby recently from a 2 year pause or something like that, I keep being humbled by what challenges there are to managing to keep things clean, flush and undamaged.
I finally learned recently to properly thin my paints for airbrushing and also gaining a lot of confidence in applying a gloss coat (Humbrol Clear in my case).
I started that model above as a simple build and focus on the airbrushing. I did a lot of work on seams, but I am yet again humbled by what it takes to get a really good result. :| Especially critical to get a nice result around the canopy piece, because that area tend to stand out.
Photo shows model with two layers of gloss coat, drying, before decaling. I swear, I could see a looong slight sink mark on top of the entire wing area when painting and adding gloss coat. After adding satin varnish, I doubt that will be visible, I did nothing to fix this issue.
25. February, 15:55 Share
Mate, I always check for sink lines in my primer stage. Sometimes, for large areas, I run a straight edge over the entire model. As for Humbrol, I only use their enamels now. Tamiya are very airbrush friendly, but with modern technology, most paints are pretty much airbrushable now. When it comes to clear coat, I have to recommend Winsor and Newton. You'll get them in any decent art store. Yellow tub, Galleria, I think it's branded as? It lasts for ages and they have gloss, satin and Matt. Good luck buddy and keep searching for new ideas for masking etc. Remember, it's a hobby, so enjoy it and don't let anything spoil it
26. February, 00:40
After a couple of layers of gloss coat and a day or two drying time, I am observing cracks in the surfaces in places. I suspect that my thicker layers of primer and inadequate drying time is to blame for this.
26. February, 18:12
That's possible buddy. Also, it could be a reaction to primer and paint? I'm not a scientific type of guy, but I hear of these things, from time to time. I think I prefer your explanation though. I try to leave things, for as long as possible. I do know enamel takes a considerable amount of time to dry. The cracks that you describe, could possibly be from the clear coat not allowing the top coat to breathe, thus making it's final way through, regardless of the subject? With multiple coats, the drying time is delayed.
26. February, 19:49
I noticed such cracks on a sub model a few years ago, in which I had some 6+ layers of gloss coat. Still, I only had cracks in a limited area. Back then I assumed I had too many gloss coat layers, that also wasn't allowed to dry properly between adding new layers. I was impatient and just wanted to try get a piano laquer finish.
I did not take care to sand the primer and paint properly, so, no wonder I needed more and more layers of gloss coat because of how thin a layer of Humbrol Clear is.
26. February, 21:33
February 25, 2020
I had such fun this evening, airbrushing on Humbrol Clear on a model that was already fairly smooth. Airbrushed on with ca 8 psi, close up.
I had an old bottle, but holding that bottle up to the light, I could see contaminants from me being reckless goofing around too much with the bottle, so I decided to use a new bottle which had no apparent contaminants, nor any fibers in it.
The first time I tried to use Humbrol Clear a few years ago (hobby was on hold until very recently), I had models that weren't smooth after priming and coloring, and so, this super thin layer of gloss coat can't realistically level real dents in the paint, unless you add alot of layers, but then things will start to get runny and pool in corners, and take forever to dry iirc. This time, I had a good result from a single sitting of airbrushing, meaning, maybe two layers of gloss coat.
Some dust got stuck on the gloss coat, I hope I can sand that off once the gloss coat is dry, and just add a little more gloss coat over it again. I forgot to close the door and clean the floor of dust in advance.
..I have a growing desire to touch and fondle my newly gloss coated model. :| I suppose I ought to wait three days at least.
24. February, 17:43 Share
Mate, I feel your pain. I have a similar problem, only mine is hair. I have 4 cats and they are long and short haired. No matter what I do, there's always a bloody hair that turns up, when I come to clear coat! I'm hoping that the new custom made spray booth, I have planned, will end my misery. Failing that, I'm out of ideas? Because my stuff is all 1:25, I try to do a pre-inspection, before shooting the clear, but the mystery hair always turns up somewhere. I don't allow the cats in my man cave, but the hair still finds a way to sneak in. On a side note, cat whiskers make great antenna.
25. February, 01:27
Maybe it could help to clean the floor, and other large horizontal surfaces, and then close the door and let the ventilator work for a while before you start airbrushing.
There was some sun shining into my room yesterday, and as I teared a piece of paper from this lint free roll of paper, I could see fibers in the air from handling the paper tissue roll.
25. February, 08:44
Update: After some 14 hours or so, having applied maybe two layers in one sitting, the model feels dry enough to be handled without leaving fingerprints, but I'll leave it for another 12 hours just to be sure.
In my experience, from this one older model, if airbrushing on primer and colors and lots of gloss coats within a short period of time alltogether, cracking appeared. I did have some 6+ layers of gloss coat on that other model.
Not sure what was cracking, presumably the underlaying paint, or, perhaps the first layer of gloss coat, I don't know for sure.
25. February, 09:20
February 24, 2020
If I ever buy this, I guess I would try fill it with some weighty material, so that the weight matches the real grenade, just for fun.
Maybe difficult if warhead was made of tungsten or something perhaps.
I guess I would also sand any edges sharper, to make things look more like milled or maybe pressed metal, or, at least for the brass casing.
24. February, 22:07 Share
24. February, 22:21
Using wound guitar strings for some kind of cable. Anybody tried that?
So the thinnest guitar strings are solid metal, but the thicker ones have a winding to them.
24. February, 19:25 Share
Would they not coil up into big loops?
24. February, 19:30
Wim van der Luijt
I've seen them being used as oxygen hose in cockpits. Not very flexible (at least the strings of my basses aren't)
24. February, 21:14
Used them as wim said, a pain to bend indeed
24. February, 21:27
I think I've discovered a "new way" of masking things..
..toilet paper + bits of masking tape.
I had previously used paper, but using toilet paper seems easier and quicker to work with.
I have since added a couple of more bits of tape, to avoid overspray creeping in under the bits of toilet paper.
24. February, 08:15 Share
24. February, 21:21
Tip: Instead of airbrushing a tiny part on a painted model to fix some overspray or what not, it is very helpful and easy using a tiny Tamiya 87048 brush to add some tiny amounts of paint to fix some uneven paintwork.
24. February, 12:23 Share
24. February, 12:25
Heh, I also learned that, if you know you will be adding a gloss coat, one can remove overspray by sanding it away.. So easy.
Assuming ofc, you don't sand through the first color layer and into the layer of primer paint. I like using a 2500 grit sanding stick for getting a fine surface.
Warning, in my experience, when sanding away paint with a 2500 sanding stick, the paint MUST be cleaned off with a say microfiber cloth, else the dust tend to remain and look bad when adding more paint.
AND, also.. the very fine paint particles is bad for you. So, imo best to sit outside and sand, and try no sniff the paint particles that comes off when gently sanding the surfaces smooth. That way one doesn't contaminate your inside surroundings. :|
24. February, 13:56
Good point Treehugger, just been doing some sanding and was going to go over with a very soft toothbrush, will use a soft cloth.
24. February, 14:01
February 23, 2020
I had some fun airbrushing this evening. Vallejo Flow Improver is supposed to only be added in minimal amount, however I had success adding a lot, but only when cutting down on thinner. I also airbrushed around 20 psi, and it worked nicely once I figured out when the paint was thin enough.
I intend to finish airbrush on some light gray and a little silver, and a black nose, and then carefully airbrush on Humbrol Clear, or, I will maybe try out Pledge, but I haven't airbrushed Pledge before so maybe a bad idea to not having tested that out. Yes, I'll just use Humbrol Clear, which I am somewhat familiar with, airbrushed on with ca 8 psi, close up, wet-in-wet, and in patches.
This isn't a magnum opus, but I built this kit and used it for paint practice, but trying my best. I do realize that, for the future, I must try to remember to always test spray the paint mix on some scrap part, every damn single time, to figure out when the paint is thin enough.
Working with only Vallejo Model Color, the thicker paint, using a sift isn't as easy as when using Vallejo Model Air paint which is more watery. It seems that, if I just finish with drops of flow improver, I get all the paint through the sift into my tiny 10 ml mixing jar.
23. February, 17:35 Share
February 22, 2020
wants this item
Russian Nuclear Ballistic SubmarineTula (Project 667BDRM Delfin - NATO Delta IV Class)
2020 | New tool
22. February, 15:13 Share
New tool? Interesting. For that price, it better be good.
2020 | New tool
22. February, 12:02 Share
22. February, 13:04
22. February, 14:01
Looks like Trumpeter also has some new? cruisers in 1:350, which is nice.
I wish the Bismarck kit at least had a brass nameplate. Adding metal paint to the plastic nameplate seems like somewhat of a hassle when it is super easy with a brass nameplate.
Also, thanks for linking to the photos.
22. February, 14:59
Oh, look at that Delta IV sub in 1:350 scale from Zvezda (9062).
22. February, 15:04
February 21, 2020
added a new photoalbum.
20. September 2018, 13:18 Share
21. February, 20:12
Thank you. I was very happy with my masking work and the overall paintwork, even if there isn't any weathering on it. I think I forgot to scrape the prop blades thinner. I always like doing that. Ofc, there is always the risk of them snapping off if not being gentle enough.
21. February, 21:39
added a new photoalbum.
21. February, 13:42 Share
Looking good, it's a pretty large one in this scale... certainly compared to WWII subs...
21. February, 13:46
Yes. It measures a little under 50 cm length wise. This model fits inside my cabinet.
I think the most imporant goal here is to make the seams and the shape of the hull as flush as possible to get that solid look when finishing painting.
It might be an idea to detail the hull, but I honestly haven't thought that far. Not sure how I can even add tiling to the hull surface.
What I can do, is making the hull skin look stressed, I think that is something I can do. Edit: On second thought, I guess if this ship has tiles on it, there woudln't be any stressed hull to be seen.
21. February, 13:57
Adding the tiles can be done by simply scribing (luckily these are added in the Hobby Boss kit, but these are very pronounced) On the ship you can distinguish some variations in color ([img1]
) , to make the hull looking stressed, take a look here to avoid a lot of scraping, but I don't think it is a necessity:
21. February, 14:06
Ah, yes, painting a patterns seems like a good idea. As long as there is this contrasting effect showing indivisual tile, I think doing that will look good. I am thinking airbrush on black, then maske off and airbrush on some lighter color, then remove masking and carefully airbrushing a thin layer of black again.
21. February, 14:19
thinking more about nato-black, RLM 66, dark grey, rubber black... you know the fifty shades of dark grey.. then you can still do a panel wash with black to make things pop a bit...
21. February, 14:51
Good idea with black wash over nato black, as black wash on a black surface probably isn't very interesting.
21. February, 15:23
That is going to be a monster. Watching. I got the Kilo all done except for adding the screw. I will try and get some pictures soon.
21. February, 20:04
started this item
"Akula" Typhoon-Class Ballistic Missile Submarine
2014 | New tool
21. February, 13:19 Share