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Treehugger (Treehugger)



Show: All mates
Check this out: (adding bolts in 1:35 scale)

I am cleaning up a 1:35 Trumpeter Swedish stridsvagn 103 C main battle tank. :)

I want to point out that, unless one is very careful, not only marking the hole before drilling, and then drilling at the mark properly, the efforts will bite you in the ass if the bolts don't end up looking symmetrical in placement.

In this case, the bolts actually runs through the plastic with the pin, so bolthead is fused with the pin, and I used a 0.6 mm drill bit to make the hole. Using the tip of a sharp blade to make a mark. The room lighting can be deceiving, if casing shadows on already placed holes, causing some confusion as to where the other holes actually are.
14. February at 17:43:00 Share
Mike Sleger How about drawing a drilling template on your computer at the appropriate size with holes marked in the correct locations, print it, cut to size, tape into position on the part, and mark/drill the holes? Or does the surface shape not accommodate such? Using some sort of removable template might help with setting the holes.
14. February at 17:58:12
Treehugger Hm, the template is an interesting idea. Only bad thing I can think of, is that, I suspect I will be needing a new template for most objects on the tank (I haven't checked this though).

I guess I could just, drill say 4-5-6 holes in a thin piece of styrene, and then very gently lay the overlay over the objects, but this probably would only work on flat objects, or around objects that have enough space for having a template thingy placed.
14. February at 18:01:18
Treehugger This takes a little practice to get good: (replaced boltheads with boltheads + pin)

Some tips:
1) Spend some time figuring out if the existing bolts can be used as a guide for proper placement or not.
2) Use a Trumpeter chisel tool to cut off the old boltheads.
3) Spend some time marking the initial spot for each hole, using the tip of a sharp, and then rotate the blade a little for making the holes a little larger so that the drill bit is better centered into the hole-to-be-drilled.
4) Try to drill straight down, so that the bolt head rests horizontally on the plastic.
5) Better to stop if in doubt, and reevaluate, instead of just drilling out 10 holes just because you want to get finished.
6) It is a good idea to use a drillbit that is slightly smaller than required, such that the bolt pin gets a little stuck. That way you don't need any glue. If the hole is too large, any glue might seep onto the top side if applied on the bottom side. Optionally, because the bolts + pins are resin, you can add a drop of super glue on the bottom side to fix the bolts in place for good.

Also, don't pour all the tiny resin parts out of the bag and onto the table and then sneese, else you will find the tiny parts all over the place. :)

Also, make sure you use a soft material to press down any bolts, and not hard tools or your finger nail, as it will eventually deform the resin. A soft sanding stick is ok for adding some pressure to get the bolt + pin to get fully into place. If you press too hard, and the bolt has a washer, you will strip the washer as the bolt is forced down too far.
15. February at 13:27:29
Treehugger I just realized, if needing to fix a bolt head that aren't at the ideal position, then just cut it off, and glue on a separate bolt head without drilling any hole. :)
15. February at 13:44:33
Danny Meer It instant giving the model so much more detail, very nice
15. February at 14:45:08
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February 13, 2020

Oh, I just got an idea.. Wait for it!

Saran wrap for rough masking!?!? I wonder if that will work.

It would be very simple, fairly cheap, and presumably no issues with any adhesives. This could save me of using lots of masking tape (if I had chosen to use 100% masking tape and not, say paper). But saran wrap would make it very easy to cover things that are round and non-flat.
13. February at 07:49:33 Share
Treehugger Photo:

Works nicely for protecting against overspray without going crazy with masking tape. :) Though, it should be said that, it is important to avoid overspray sneaking in under the opening, if left open, so best to tape the openings down to the model.
13. February at 14:15:20
Dave Flitton That seems to be a good idea, I will have to try it
13. February at 20:31:57
13. February at 20:52:25
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Treehugger owns this item
1:35 Strv.103 S-Tank (Eduard 35538)
Strv.103 S-Tank Trumpeter
Eduard 1:35
2003 | New tool
13. February at 19:20:04 Share
I got an idea for working with masking tape with canopies/clear parts just now.

Consider adding a patch of masking tape onto a canopy piece, then, you just draw with a filt pen, the contours of the raised panel lines. Then, take the patch off and cut into shape. Repeat if not perfect. Seems safer and offering more control than cutting the mask when it is already on the clear part.
13. February at 18:41:34 Share
Apparently, one can damage an airbrush nozzle by grazing the tip with your finger tip. :O I can see there is a slight dent. And now, the airbrush won't blow clean air, but tiny drops of water is forming when only blowing air, and having the cup filled with water.

Even changing both the needle and the nozzle at once, I still got water drops forming when blowing air? Why the hell would the airbrush still do that with new and undamaged parts? I never mixed the old and the new parts.

Edit: Hrm, the nozzle costs about 2.5 times more than the 0.35 needle. I have more spare needles, but no more nozzles.
13. February at 13:59:00 Share

February 12, 2020

Preparing for masking the canopy of a 1:144 A400M transport plane, I am testing out "Parafilm M laboratory film".

Seems that, maybe, one must really stretch *every* area of the film, and not just the center, as the film itself isn't adhesive by default. And so if one only activates/stretches the center part, I think it looks like the outer edge doesn't become sticky.

I am testing this on a piece of scrap model, so far, this looks promising. I must remember to always use a new and sharp blade to avoid fiddling, when cutting the film into shape once placed onto a canopy clear part.

I've never done this before, I hope the blade doesn't veer off away from the slight raised edge on the canopy.

I do wonder what it will be like, under a layer of primer and paint, I hope I don't have to use a blade to cut the parafilm off again, I wouldn't think so because of how thin the layer of airbrushed paint tend to be, but I am new to this, don't really know what to expect here.
12. February at 14:43:26 Share
Augie Kerry is the master with this stuff
12. February at 15:00:05
Treehugger Hrm, I find it difficult to see the raised lines. I messed this up. :|
I should have tested this some scrap clear part, and not some regular plastic.

Edit: I will use masking tape, and just place it on to the canopy part and cut wiht a sharp blade, and making sure I cover any mistakes, making the window openings slightly smaller.
12. February at 15:06:41
Wim van der Luijt I peel it off with a toothpick, easy even after months and leaves no residue. I cut small patches since you can stretch it pretty far
12. February at 15:31:51
Treehugger I think I learned just now, that I can use a small ruler making sure I cut a straight line, but it seems also possible to feel the black against the raised edge, but it seems important to not press too hard with the blade.

Oh, well, I will need more practice. Most of the time I am just worried I won't be good enough, and I don't get the practice I need. :)
12. February at 15:34:03
Treehugger Btw, I noticed that once the Parafilm M is activated by stretching it, it no longer acts like a film, and becomes more like rubber, such that the film can be rolled into a ball if you wanted to, I did not expect that to become so "gooey". Nothing bad, I just didn't expect the foil to turn rubber like.
12. February at 16:01:05
Wim van der Luijt that's the whole point....used in labs to seal testtubes and such
12. February at 17:23:26
Treehugger Interesting. I guess the film gets stretched as the film is dragged around the spinner.
12. February at 19:33:44
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Oh, joy. I just discovered some MasterClub Tiger late tracks (MC135005W) in a drawer that I had fogotten I had (it was found outside the kit box). :D

I was wondering for a moment if I had to use the Tamiya vinyl tracks.

Btw, a typical mistake of mine, is to leave tools hidden away in kit boxes that I put away for some time.
12. February at 14:47:08 Share
Nigel Yeah, that happened to me. I couldn't find the cannon assembly for a BT-42. I looked all over. Even contacted a Tamiya dealer for a spare sprue (they never returned my messages). Finally, I found it in a drawer lovingly held by my helping hands! :D
12. February at 14:58:28
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Treehugger added a new photoalbum.
2. November 2018 at 11:36:07 Share
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Treehugger I have since added a pin wash and some streaking, but I think I honestly liked the clean look of the tank, because the paintjob sort of seemed realistic I think, not matte, nor glossy.

I think with Vallejo washes, it is a good idea to take your good time, not only while working, but allowing a first pass to fully dry for, well, maybe a day or whatever. That way, you can dilute the wash so it isn't too strong. I found it difficult to work with the wash but I think that was because I used a brush that was too large both for applying a dark blob of wash, and also, for removing excess. Using a smaller brush for removing excess may allow for better control so that you don't sap back all the wash that was added in the first place. :|

As for the paintwork, I learned to always, always thin the damn paint. Also it helps being careful, so you don't break tiny parts while holding the model, and also keeping your hands clean, washing them good to avoid fingerprints from greasy fingertips. If there is a blemish, it is easy to airbrush on a fresh new layer of color, as long as you mix the correct hue to match the existing paint.

I think I will add a second round of pin wash, and then add more concrete streaking, and then add pigments at some point.
10. February at 12:48:40
Patrick Hagelstein The outside picture captures the colors exactly! Good job on the mixing! I don't know what you mean by getting slack in the tracks. Modern day double pin tracks are so called live tracks. this means the track segments have a natural springiness to them which adds tension to them. ie, the tracks are tight around the sprocket and the idler and will not sag or slack. Neither while driving and neither while at rest. If the tracks are tout, leave them that way!
11. February at 00:34:52
Frankie Roberts Yes, I know what you mean about keeping your hands clean, I'm making a Tamiya Yamaha Roadstar as a small project and something different. I painted the damper gold titanium and got a fingerprint on the edge, and I can't quite get rid of it, although I haven't tried too hard as it's hidden inside the bike.
Do you use Vallejo paint?
11. February at 00:49:03
Treehugger Yes. Vallejo paints, primers and Vallejo putty (becuase the Tamiya putty is obnoxious to work with). The Vallejo putty sands off nicely with the proper grit, but tend to rub and deform if going too fine. I tend to not having the patience to let my putty dry for long enought I suspect. I can't wait a day for the putty to become 100% hard (or however long it takes, I never figured that out).

I restarted the hobby only recently after 2+ years with it on hold. Only now have I (hopefully) learned to thin my paints and also sift my paints so I don't get glogging. I also have learned to now rely more on primer to evaluate what is a good closed seam or not on the model. I also learned to point the airbrush away from the model, start and finish, to avoid spluttering ending up on the model. :)
11. February at 07:40:54
Frankie Roberts You certainly seem to know your stuff, HMCS Snowberry was my first ever project and Only started in December 19. I'm still trying things out.
11. February at 10:28:38
Treehugger Your first project ever? I don't believe it. :)
11. February at 10:33:44
Frankie Roberts Well I tried to do an Airfix Sea King when I was about 10 yrs old, but I didn't even get to the painting stage. I watched a lot of YouTube videos to learn though.
12. February at 00:39:18
Treehugger Nicely done then. :)
12. February at 08:57:02
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February 11, 2020

Crap. I tried using liquid mask inside tiny cavities to protect against layer of primer and layer of paint. Can't easily get the thing out again, and the silvery paint that was masked is pretty much ruined. :|

I tried to add more liquid mask to get a thicker surface, but the holes were so tiny and I couldn't risk smearing it over the model around the hole.
11. February at 20:50:13 Share

February 10, 2020

Just wanted to share a video I saw just on youtube.

The man points out how you can use the liquid for darkening (rusting) metal tracks, which also makes the metal easier to paint when it isn't shiny. He also summerized the various things you can do, for griming up your tracks.

Youtube Video

10. February at 19:37:13 Share
I think I just learned that when working with plane models in particular, adding a thicker layer of primer across the seam is benefitial, because then you can sand across the seam, and still retain a 100% coverage of primer, to best get an idea if the seam has become fully seamless or not.

Using 2500 grit sanding sponge works nicely for the seam covered with primer I noticed. Nice and smooth on Vallejo Glossy Black primer (dried for a day).
10. February at 18:52:14 Share
Tip: If needing to sand the clear parts for the tiny windows, it is a very good idea to leave the small clear parts on a part of the sprue, and sand the backside with a metal file, and finish with a polish stick, quick and easy. Also much easier to hold in your fingers that way.
1:144 Airbus A400M "Atlas" (Revell 04859)
Airbus A400M "Atlas"
Revell 1:144
04859 (80-4859)
2014 | New tool
10. February at 13:10:11 Share

February 9, 2020

Better watch out for those sink marks. Make sure you add some putty around all the windows and sand down before starting to add any primer. :|

I think my brain somehow ingnored them, maybe because my brain went "that can't be sink marks, not around all the windows, that would be silly, really around all the windows?". Or "I am already busy with those other sink marks over here, I will have to ignore this."
1:144 Airbus A400M "Atlas" (Revell 04859)
Airbus A400M "Atlas"
Revell 1:144
04859 (80-4859)
2014 | New tool
9. February at 09:42:58 Share
Martin Wilk Having worked in a plastic injection molding factory that's a result of not enough pressure in the shot.
Obviously the machine operator hasn't informed the die setter of the issue.
Poor quality control
Total lack of care about the finished product
9. February at 09:55:58
Treehugger The issue seems to be where the plastic hull is at its thickest, because on the inside, more plastic is protruding. Would be nice to know if this is preventable, or not. It sounds like maybe it is preventable, by being more careful working with the injection mold machine (or maybe in the configuration of it).

The sink marks around all the windows aren't deep, but just enough deep to annoy.
9. February at 10:16:44
Martin Wilk It'd be the pressure of the shot.
Low pressure means not enough material is in the mold space.
Plastic cools and shrinks. This is why it's happening where it's thicker.
Hopefully it was detected during the run and not all kits are the same
9. February at 10:42:55
Treehugger Looking at the kit again I should correct myself. Six of ten windows have noticeable sink marks. I've already added primer and some color, but I think I will just bite it and sand off the paint and add the putty. :|

Thanks for the feedback. :)
9. February at 12:39:17
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So I tried out Vallejo Washes for the first time. I think I must have done something wrong, or, this is beyond tedious for a moderately detailed model I am thinking.

I can't imagine using this again unless I somehow learn to fix my issues.

The damn bubbles. The bubbles, they show up and are hard to remove. If left alone, they leave a darker spot.

If I aren't 101% careful, the brush touches some area that maybe already was given a wash, messing that part up.

I quickly noticed how I lost focus. I initially desired a pin wash, but ended up trying to shade larger surfaces. I guess I should have watched more tutorials before I started.

End result: A tank model with a lot of weird mix of satin and matte surfaces in a big mess. Presumably airbrushing on a matte varnish will fix that.
8. February at 20:42:39 Share
Treehugger Hm, I used thinner to thin the wash, maybe that is one error I made. Presumably thinner dries faster than tap water would.

I probably should have used a much thinner/smaller brush to add the pin wash.
8. February at 21:10:15
Nathan Dempsey I've never had any luck with any Vallejo product. It isnt worth all the extra steps I hear people talking about to get their products to work, especially since there's hundreds of other products that work perfectly well out of the bottle.
8. February at 21:26:20
Treehugger Their paint and primer works fine for me. Seems silly to dismiss the entire Vallejo range of products.

I also suspect I used too much or too little wetness in areas I wanted to tint darker. I managed to create streaks with some success.

I didn't have a paper towel ready, so I dried my brushes on a piece of paper which maybe isn't the best idea, as the paper doesn't soak up as much water as it can with a paper towel.
9. February at 06:42:07
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February 8, 2020

Ohffs. Never sand a smaller item with a sanding stick, holding the small part just over a full garbage bucket to collect the dust.
5. February at 11:05:29 Share
View full thread (23 Comments)
Treehugger Ouch.

Sometimes with a tweezer launch, I can actually hear the thing hit a solid object, like a wall maybe, or something solid nearby. If hitting a wall, that would mean a search area of some 4 x 4 meters. I've sometimes found lost things inside the vacuum cleaner. Incidentally, now I use a dust mop, feel much safer already.
7. February at 10:59:52
wilky Yeah, tweezer pings are the worse.
I've lost stuff never to be seen again and my carpet has a totally different colour to the grey of kit plastic but for all the looking, nothing.
Then it's just get some sprue and the needle files and make your own part
7. February at 11:46:17
Peter Hardy I "pinged" a Tiger 1 headlamp four years ago. Still haven't found the blessed thing!
7. February at 11:50:34
7. February at 12:06:15
Alec K Gents. PLEASE. Tweezer pings?? Once per hour... :D :D :D
7. February at 12:43:09
Paul Juliano When the tweezer ping happens, I instantly freeze and listen like a freaking BAT to see if I can catch the direction it lands in... One time I had some painted bits on clip stick in a holder that was itself precariously balanced on my kitchen table. I batted the holder accidentally, and it catapulted the pieces across the room and behind a bookshelf.
7. February at 13:28:12
Danny Meer whahaha all sounds soo familiar :D
7. February at 13:38:12
Peter Hardy Paul, you make it sound like I have a rival in the World Clutz championships!
8. February at 23:08:41
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Oh joy!!!

I finally learned to spray on Vallejo's Glossy Black primer. :) Such fun!

1) Making sure the paint from the bottle is sifted. Even with a recently new but used bottle, there was a couple of 1.5 mm long bits of paint left in the sift after addding my mixed paint into the airbrush cup.
2) Mixing my paint thin enough, but doing so in a smal 10 ml jar. Adding no more than 10% flow enhancer. I used 2 parts primer + 1 part thinner + 10% flow (enhancer maybe 5-6 drops, perhaps more than 10%, and too much). I didn't count the paint drops, just eyeballed the measuring lines on this tiny 10ml jar.
3) Adding a couple of drops of ceaner ilquid first into the airbrush cup, then a drop of flow enhancer.
4) I've started coating the cup with regdab lube, maybe it helps a little, unsure.
5) Airbrushing at 30 psi. Such a joy. No splutter, not even once. Afaik not a singe bit of paint on the model.
6) There is always buildup of paint on the needle, so I use a small brush moist with cleaner liquid, to clean the needle every so often.


One difficulty, would be getting a good shine all over a large surface. This seems easier with smaller surfaces. Because the air from the airbrush dries the paint, too much air and too little paint makes the glossy black non-100% shiny. Presumably adding bursts of larger amounts of paint as a finish (starting with a very thin layer all over) should work, but seems a little risky if putting on too much paint.

My keyboard sucks, sticky keys that don't fully press down sometimes. That in addition to regular typos. :|
8. February at 10:27:14 Share
Treehugger I should add that I am using the Iwata Eclipse HP-CS airbrush.

I have both the 0.35 and the 0.5 version. Seeing as how nice I can airbrush on things now, I doubt I will ever use my 0.5 for airbrushing on primer ever again, unless maybe the model is large and I have a lot of paint to spare. I also bought this accessory, a paint limiter for my 0.35 airbrush.

I was worried for some time that the Iwata Eclipse HP-CS was not good for smaller models, but it seems to work nicely with thinning the paint properly. I wish it was easier to aim though with the needle guard on. I do not dare taking off the needle guard.

Airbrushing paint into smaller cavities is difficult I think. Perhaps better to use little paint, but multiple passes, or risk having too much paint all over the model around the cavity.
8. February at 10:30:49
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Tip: Small plastic zip loc bags.

It is a good idea to have plenty of small and larger zip loc plastic bags around.

I like using them for storing stuff I can toss into a drawer, or for keeping count of loose parts for a current build. They are also useful for protecting clear parts, loose or on sprue still.
8. February at 07:27:52 Share

February 6, 2020

Tip: MasterClub make some really nice bolt/rivet products. You get the whole bolt and the pin, so you would have to drill a hole if using the pin part. :) They also sell a template thing in plastic, showing all the variant bolt had types and sizes and how they look (no pins). The template product is nice to have, to get to have a good idea what they look like. And there is like 100+ pieces in each bag, depending on the size.
6. February at 15:22:35 Share
Wim van der Luijt website only in you have a link?
6. February at 15:50:18
Treehugger I got mine at this online store in Ukraine. (various stuff found down the page) <-- shows the template item
6. February at 18:59:18
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Oh, wow, I have been airbrushing for maybe a week, and UK's Benchvent BV300S-D extractor seems like a crue joke at this point.

1) The hand written serial number on the box can't be read. No reply back on email about this (lifetime guarantee iirc).
2) The hose that fits into the extractor, just at the start, is missing its metal rings, making it floppy and blocking airflow.
3) After maybe a week of use, airflow out the hose, is next to nothing, can hardly feel any air moving. Good thing I noticed this or I would have fumes and paint going everywhere eventually.
4) Replacing the filter restores airflow. Still, airflow is reduced when hose has this unnatural bend because of the missing metal rings around the hose.
5) The old filter is ofc looking colored, but nothing at all indicates it being clogged.

I think this thing is worse than my old custom made spray booth. Not happy about this, as I have to change the filters a lot more often than expected.

Edit: A makeshift solution for the bent hose, is to place a book beside the start of the hose, on top of the extractor, and then bend the hose over the book, that way the hose is extended at the base, increasing airflow.
6. February at 17:20:26 Share
Treehugger owns this item
1:35 Artillery Crew Riders (MiniArt 35040)
Artillery Crew Riders
MiniArt 1:35
6. February at 14:11:42 Share
Treehugger owns this item
1:35 Infantry Weapons Set (Tamiya 35111)
Infantry Weapons Set
Tamiya 1:35
35111 (111)
1988 | Changed box
6. February at 14:09:34 Share

February 5, 2020

I wanted to use the Vallejo Glossy Black primer, and I knew I had no idea how to do it. So.. after a lot of practicing, I found out that a major issue, is glogging due to bits of paint, coming from the paint bottle. So, not an issue with the paint, but bits of paint in a really old bottle. Spraying with the paint from a new bottle worked nicely. I tried to clean out the gunk from the old bottle, but I had endless problems with clogging.

Also, it seems I have to thin the paint a little bit at least, but not too much.

Airbrushing on the glossy black primer at 30 psi worked ok, but I used my .35 airbrush, and not my 0.50 one. In any case it seems using my 0.35 airbrush works nicely as long as the paint is thinned enough.

So in the last week or so, I have finally learned to thin the damn paint enough, and now I should be able to airbrush on the glossy black primer without spluttering even. Some more investigation is required to figure out how little thinner I ought to use. Seems I can at least use 2 parts paint, 1 part thinner and no more than 10% flow enhancer.

I also suspect that with any clogging, there is too much air, compared to the flow of paint, perhaps making the paint dry quicker or something. It really is a big difference in the flow of paint in a functional airbrush, and a clogged one. :|

Some other things I've started doing:
1) Coat the airbrush cup with a thin layer of regdab
2) Clean the nozzle protector opening
3) After cleaning the self centering nozzle (Iwata Eclipse HP CS) gently tap the solid part against the table. I swear I saw something falling out of it the last time.
4) Instead of counting the drops of paint, I'll try to rely on the measuring lines in ml, in a tiny 10 ml glass cup.
5) I've also started to test paint colors on a small piece of white paper, to get to see what the paint looks like, shading wise.
5. February at 17:07:14 Share
Martin Oostrom Vallejo paint can sometimes clog up very soon after opening a bottle. Very annoying when you have a lifesize primer bottle. Wim van der Luijt taught me to use a tea strainer, a very fine sieve. Whenever I use the strainer, clogging hasn't happened.
2 cents!
5. February at 17:48:13
Treehugger Thanks for the tip! :)
5. February at 18:42:03
Wim van der Luijt joy with vallejo.... :D
5. February at 18:54:26
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February 1, 2020

I wish newer kits had better moldings and would just glue into place properly. :| It tTook a good while to sand these things into shape: (image upload)
1. February at 21:21:30 Share

January 29, 2020

I bought four bottles of Vallejo Air 71.043 US Olive Drab (FS34087), however, they don't match the hue of my other 71.043 Olive Drab bottle (RAL7013-RLM81). :| My older bottle, is darker. I only noticed the difference when I got home. (image uploaded)
29. January at 16:43:59 Share

January 27, 2020

It is unfortunate, or perhaps, improper I think, to have the graphic for this kit, having text in it, also saying something about not being a kit, but perhaps a cockpit only kit.
1:48 Hawker Siddeley HS748 IAF AWACS (One Man MODEL 19)
Hawker Siddeley HS748 IAF AWACS 3D fabricated
One Man MODEL 1:48
2019 | Changed parts
27. January at 09:07:52 Share
Wim van der Luijt not quite, if you bother to check the website, you can see that there is a version with a full interior and one with just the cockpit details
27. January at 14:04:14
Treehugger I just realized I misunderstood the text. It seem to mean, no landing gear, no internal stuff, just a canopy on the inside having been modeled, if I understand this correctly.
27. January at 14:12:22
Toshihiko Shimizu There are landing gear parts in this kit. I wanted to mean that middle and rear fuselage are empty. I have no inside data of this awacs type.
27. January at 23:21:18
Toshihiko Shimizu It is 3D fabricated so there is texture on the surface. Smoothing surface is necessary. By using putty or resin coating, texture elimination is easier than sanding only. But it is not suitable for just assemblers.
27. January at 23:43:26
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At the very least, I think an extra label to warn consumers or something ought to be used, for crudely printed 3D models.

Apparently, this (and other recently added kits) is in fact a 3D printed kit with the typical uneven surface known from 3D printing, not resin, not injection molded. I think, this is either maybe a novely that warrant extra attention re. this website, or, I think, I as a modeler have no interest in such imo crude looking kits, but maybe later if things improve greatly. This kit is also apparently sold via eBay.
1:48 Hawker Siddeley HS748 IAF AWACS (One Man MODEL 19)
Hawker Siddeley HS748 IAF AWACS 3D fabricated
One Man MODEL 1:48
2019 | Changed parts
27. January at 09:15:24 Share
Wim van der Luijt If you don't post this on the admin wall, the one for feature request is best, it will probably go unnoticed in the stream of posts
27. January at 10:05:41
27. January at 14:20:22
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January 25, 2020

Treehugger owns this item
1:72 HH-60J (Italeri 1346)
Italeri 1:72
2013 | Changed parts
25. January at 09:11:01 Share
Treehugger I think I accidentally ordered a kit with raised panel lines. :|
25. January at 09:13:00
Łukasz Gliński Really? Thx for warning
25. January at 12:19:15
Treehugger I believe I heard it in one of the two reviews for this kit. One review was for a similar branched kit, and the youtube channel iirc pointed out that the kit had raised panel lines, so I will assume that this kit will also have raised panel lines.

If I remember it, I will keep you all updated, should take a couple of weeks though for it to arrive.

Btw, I vaguely remember some years ago, buying an Italeri F-18 kit in 1:72 scake, and it had raised panel lines, to my disappointment. Airfix also had their old Sea Harrier in 1:48 scale, also with raised panel lines. I used that Sea Harrier model for airbrush practicing.
25. January at 17:55:02
Łukasz Gliński You're absolutely right, the German review of this kits shows it in a closeup pic.
And indeed their Hornet does have the raised panel lines too, that's why I'm still hesitating to start it ;)
25. January at 19:17:22
Treehugger I will do what I have in plan for my Viggen kit in 1:48 scale, with raised panel lines. Remove panel lines, and scribe into the layer of primer paint. :) Easier to scribe into the paint, as opposed to the plastic.
25. January at 20:16:35
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January 17, 2020

I received my Benchvent fume extractor today. Looks nice. I noticed that, just like my kitchen fan, in order to get the best ventilation, it is best to open a window in a nearby room or something to get the air flowing better.
17. January at 09:23:39 Share

January 10, 2020

Interesting. I like how smaller models don't take up too much space, so no 1:48 B-52 for me. But.. how accurate is it?
1:144 Boeing B-52 (Academy 12622)
Boeing B-52
Academy 1:144
2020* | New tool
10. January at 09:55:03 Share
Markus Antonius 1/144 scale large Aircraft still need plenty of space. Time will tell how accurate this mold will be.
10. January at 11:42:25
Add comment »
I had recently bought two smaller sheet of photo etch (Eduard) for a couple of kits for cheap, and I noticed that one of them had a nameplate on it. I had previously dismissed such nameplates for aircraft, but I know I can make those nameplates look really nice by painting them black and gently sanding away the paint from the letters to get a metallic shine on the text, and then sealing it all with a layer of gloss coat. I think I will pay more attention now and keep an eye out for nameplates that happen to be included in a sheet of photo etch.
10. January at 10:04:45 Share

January 9, 2020

Here's an idea I got from earlier today: So.. imagine hanging a kit model of a jet, off the wall, just like hanging a picture on the wall. :) So, this as I imagined, would require cutting off the tail, and have the cut tail glued onto some kind of plating that is in turn hung off a wall. Would save you some shelf space, if you can accept the loss off the tail part.
9. January at 15:52:37 Share
Martin Wilk One could also build half an aircraft and mount it on a wooden plinth.
Or build both sides and mount them and have one to keep and one to give away or even sell.
9. January at 16:19:39
Add comment »

I've noticed that if I want to edit a newly posted message for the second time (sometimes typos, sometimes I want to add more text), the edit button tend to have disappeared. Also, if I reload the page, I do get the edit button back for the message, but then, when finishing the edit after that, it looks like the message is always duplicated. I can even delete the oldeste of the two, with the newer message still showing.

Q: I am wondering, is the missing edit button and the duplication of a message a feature or a bug?
9. January at 13:14:59 Share
I have the Enterprise NCC-1701A refit kit in 1:350 scale, and although I was planning on using the taxidermy paints for the iridescent colors, it looks like "Green Stuff World" and maybe older Vallejo (?) color shift paints, might do as well, something I must investigate some time later.

For the Enterprise model (I have a paint guide for it somewhere), one would add iridescent colors on top of white/grey base color in an "Aztec" pattern, requiring extensive masking.

At least now that I have learned that I can simply fill the airbrush cup with thinner, and add a few drops of metal paint, I can easily add misty thin layers of metallic paint. The tricky part would be to make this work with masking tape (I have not tried that), and also starting with the smoothest base possible (probably requiring some sanding and maybe gloss coat).
9. January at 13:11:21 Share

January 2, 2020

Hm, Greenstrawberry has a vacuum part for the Starfury fighter (Babylon 5). I wonder what kit that is for. Anybody know? Wouldn't think this vacuum canopy glass is for the old and hard to get kit.
2. January at 20:02:39 Share

December 30, 2019

Q: Tamiya's Bismarck or Tirpitz in 1:350 scale? Anybody have an opinion on this?

I think the Tirpitz has more anti aircraft guns, but other than that, I wouldn't know what the difference might be on the kit itself.
29. December 2019 at 20:02:40 Share
James C I'm not an expert on either ship, but a couple visual differences between the two are that Tirpitz had quadruple torpedo launcher mounts on either side roughly mid-ships, while Bismarck did not. The radar at the very top of the superstructure on Tirpitz was much larger than Bismarck's, with a secondary forward, and lower down on top of the bridge on Tirpitz. The range finders aft of the funnel were open on Bismarck but covered with domes on Tirpitz. So if you see two sets of radars high up in the superstructure with torpedo launchers mid-ships your definitely looking at Tirpitz. Both are fabulous looking ships though. :)

Here's an interesting post showing the differences:
29. December 2019 at 22:31:38
Martin Oostrom Tirpitz in b&w camo!
29. December 2019 at 22:38:24
Raimondas Ciuplys Well, Tamiya's Bismarck would be a little closer to the original, as it had been moulded first and the Tirpitz was issued later with very few changes. Many parts including hull are shared by both kits. So if you want to build somewhat more realistic model, you can go with the Tamiyas Bismarck. If you choose the Tirpitz, you would have much more to do in order to get the same level of realism. The new Revell kits are better basic material, but there are still plenty of thing to improve.
You can check out this build Youtube Video The guy is true master.

30. December 2019 at 15:01:00
Mario Thomas He is Not Human , Must be an Alien. This Kit is about 2.000 pieces and he makes another 2.000 scratch.
What a Masterpiece.
30. December 2019 at 18:51:45
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Q: Is there a stamping tool for creating pieces of hexagonal bolts from a thicker sheet of styrene? I think I saw such a tool used in a video on youtube, but I have no idea who manufactures that tool. Problem with photo etch, is that the thickness of the PE bolt heads is inadequate, too thin in my experience.
28. December 2019 at 21:55:22 Share
28. December 2019 at 22:57:56
Treehugger Interesting, but no, I am fairly sure they were stamped out.
29. December 2019 at 09:42:34
Wim van der Luijt sure, but buying rod and cutting to size is cheap.

Have you looked at the punch by RP tools? (not sure what the max thickness is, but they do a hex set)
30. December 2019 at 11:35:52
Treehugger Thank you for that link, this looks really interesting! :) I will check it out.
30. December 2019 at 17:18:33
Add comment »
Paul Budzik re-arranged his bottles of paint in the drawer. :)
Youtube Video

29. December 2019 at 22:40:57 Share
JD Great idea!
29. December 2019 at 23:26:21
Michael Hickey Have to try this myself.
30. December 2019 at 03:14:54
Erik No Simple, but brilliant.
30. December 2019 at 15:28:11
Gordon Sørensen Great idea and simple execution!
30. December 2019 at 15:41:17
Add comment »
Augh. Last purchase of the year, this evening. Some local store had some nice discounts on paints, pigments and some PE. :|

After new years eve here in norway, I don't really know what the customs fee and stuff will be, but I know it will be more expensive. Have to check again in January. Bad news is, one have to pay for customs of any low cost item. Up until now, there was a certain threshhold. I guess local mail services got tired of everybody shopping from Asia with free shipping and lobbied the politicians to change things, my guess anyway.
29. December 2019 at 21:41:40 Share
Martin Wilk Same happened here in Australia but often it's still cheaper to pay the tax than buy locally.
Then there's also the issue of lots of stuff just not being available to be purchased locally anyway
30. December 2019 at 01:17:54
Michael Hickey I agree with Wilky, luckily BNA Models has a good variety of stuff for us online shoppers :), my nearest hobby shop is a 800 klm round trip. :(
30. December 2019 at 03:07:04
Alec K Question for the Aussie mates: is there a visit-worthy hobby shop in Melbourne?
30. December 2019 at 09:01:06
Michael Hickey There is a couple, one is called Metro Hobbies 444 Station Street, Box Hill, Victoria 3128 and another one is Hearns Hobbies has 2 locations 295 Flinders St, Melbourne VIC 3000 / 4/2-8 Victor Crs Narre Warren VIC 3805. Hope this helps you out Alec. :)
30. December 2019 at 09:22:16
Treehugger Just wanted to add: That for the last month, I have been very careful when placing an order online for a shop outside my country. Anything ordered from an European shop was ok, as I would expect just a two week delivery. I did not dare shop from Asia, because if those things arrive AFTER new years eve, I will probably have to pay, a lot of money I had not anticipated.
30. December 2019 at 11:29:44
Alec K Thanks a lot Michael, much appreciated. Looks like Hearns Hobbies is very close to our hotel
30. December 2019 at 12:01:46
Michael Hickey Awesome have a great time in Melbourne. :)
30. December 2019 at 12:23:34
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December 25, 2019

Treehugger wants this item
1:35 Sherman VC (Rye Field Model RM-5038)
Sherman VC Firefly
Rye Field Model 1:35
RM-5038 (5038)
2019 | New tool
25. December 2019 at 17:55:28 Share
Treehugger wants this item
1:48 Mi-24V/VP (Zvezda 4823)
Zvezda 1:48
2020* | New tool
25. December 2019 at 12:22:57 Share

December 23, 2019

Q: Does anyone know why it says "metal or paintable plastic"? Why mention both metal and plastic? which one is it, or do you get a nameplate, both in metal and plastic? I find this confusing.
1:350 USS Indiana SSN-789 (Model Monkey np-SSN789-1)
Metal or paintable plastic nameplate for:
USS Indiana SSN-789
Model Monkey 1:350
2019 | New tool
23. December 2019 at 14:30:36 Share

December 20, 2019

I simply had to buy (order) this kit when I saw this. Models looks imo so much nicer with a driver in them I think. :) I wonde if all four figures fit in every type of vehicle, or if they are basically shaped differently, in addition to having different clothing.
1:35 Drivers (ICM 35642)
Drivers (1939-1945)
ICM 1:35
2018 | New tool
20. December 2019 at 10:29:19 Share
I think I picked the wrong day to quit waiting for somebody to make a new 1:48 scale Hind :D
1:48 Mi-24V/VP (Zvezda 4823)
Zvezda 1:48
2020* | New tool
20. December 2019 at 06:45:23 Share

December 19, 2019

Treehugger owns this item
1:35 Drivers (ICM 35642)
Drivers (1939-1945)
ICM 1:35
2018 | New tool
19. December 2019 at 22:26:15 Share
Treehugger owns this item
1:48 F-16XL-2 Experimental Fighter (Kinetic K48086)
F-16XL-2 Experimental Fighter
Kinetic 1:48
2019 | Changed parts
19. December 2019 at 16:43:44 Share
Treehugger I had the opportunity to chose between this newer one from Kinetic and the other one from Skunkworks (based on same Kinetic F-16 molds by the looks of it), so I went with this double seater, the other one was single seater.
19. December 2019 at 16:45:08
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December 17, 2019

I read a rumor/claim that Trumpeter has announced a 1:200 kit of the Gneisenau and Scharnhorst. Well, one kit of each I am sure.
17. December 2019 at 13:21:16 Share
Heh, I am anxiously awaiting spare parts from Hobby Boss/Trumpeter in China, but.. currently, situation looks similar like all the 10+ scam buys I've had on eBay from China, where all the packages (except that one with a 1$ value that I didn't order) turned out to have been returned back to sender according to local mail service. I hope this will happen again with freaking spare parts, what would be very weird I think. In a few days time I will know if the tracked package with spare parts arrive or not. :|
14. December 2019 at 17:50:38 Share
Treehugger Oh, joy, it seems I don't have to worry about the package not showing up. Tracking shows the package is moving towards where I live. :)
16. December 2019 at 10:41:04
Treehugger Oh, joy, the package did arrive. In a box as well. The boxing was mauld, but the parts inside were ok.

I wonder what will happen when I get a single, small, spare part from Roden after new year. Problem is, customs handling fee will be outrageous after new year. I hope they can send this 0 value item in a letter.
17. December 2019 at 12:17:55
Add comment »

December 15, 2019

Seems like a nice kit. I like the apparent not-too-large-wingspan. Why this is not longer in stock, I would like to know.
1:144 C-17A Globemaster III (Revell 85-5867)
C-17A Globemaster III
Revell 1:144
2013 | Changed box
15. December 2019 at 19:32:19 Share

December 14, 2019

Heh, I am anxiously awaiting spare parts from Hobby Boss/Trumpeter in China, but.. currently, situation looks similar like all the 10+ scam buys I've had on eBay from China, where all the packages (except that one with a 1$ value that I didn't order) turned out to have been returned back to sender according to local mail service. I hope this will happen again with freaking spare parts, that would be very weird I think. In a few days time I will know if the tracked package with spare parts arrive or not. :|
14. December 2019 at 17:50:28 Share
Heh, I am anxiously awaiting spare parts from Hobby Boss/Trumpeter in China, but.. currently, situation looks similar like all the 10+ scam buys I've had on eBay from China, where all the packages (except that one with a 1$ value that I didn't order) turned out to have been returned back to sender according to local mail service. I hope this won't happen again with freaking spare parts, what would be very weird I think. In a few days time I will know if the tracked package with spare parts arrive or not. :|
14. December 2019 at 17:49:44 Share
Finally a 1:48 scale model. Was there ever one from other kit makers? Although I don't fancy stealth jets, I really hope this isn't going to be some $100 kit. I wouldn' t think so, but a lot of new 1:48 kits from other brands seems so expensive imo.
1:48 Su-57 (Zvezda 4824)
Zvezda 1:48
2020* | New tool
11. December 2019 at 10:40:01 Share
Tuffz New zvezda kits are always superb and quite on the cheap side, at least with armour. So i hope it stays like that going forward
13. December 2019 at 13:46:16
Treehugger I am not against the idea of maybe buying something expensive from other brands, but often I find, for example ship kits in 1:350 scale to be too simplistic and not worth the extra cost. And then, one is often left to wonder how terrible the accuracy is anyway even with new molds.
13. December 2019 at 13:48:15
Slavo Hazucha Definitely got an eye on this - let´s see how it compares to the announced Kitty Hawk kit next year. If any of them is decent enough to go OOB, may be a very hot candidate for a project for me next year... Curious as what they will provide as engines, for the current "old" Al-41F1S, nice aftermarket options do exist... I just hope they do not attempt some fantasy Izdeliye-30 layout but it does not look that way from the pictures. Remains to decide if splinter or Minecraft camo is the way to go :)
13. December 2019 at 15:53:29
Agustin Prellezo Imho, new Zvezda kits are top quality and on the cheap side.
13. December 2019 at 16:17:54
ekard-ynot I have other Zvezda planes, and they are one of the new gen top quality makers - aka GWH, Eduard, AMK - so will be excellent.
14. December 2019 at 08:10:31
Sebastian Meyner I suppose this one will be quiet nice. There is (...or used to be) a full resin kit in, I believe 1:48, made by HPH Models
14. December 2019 at 08:58:15
Derek Huggett It's a T-50 by another name! :)
14. December 2019 at 09:39:57
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December 12, 2019

I finally got around to order a proper spray booth. :) I went with the Benchvent BV300S-D + 6 filters. A little expensive, but I think it will be worth it. I will use a huge cutting mat for the base so I don't airbrush my table surface. I don't know why they aren't also offering a round-to-flat exhaust adapter, to vent out the window.

I did once build my own spray booth, and it worked ok, but it was marginally ok, and I had since tossed it at the garbage center some time ago before moving to a new place.
12. December 2019 at 15:07:52 Share

December 11, 2019

Treehugger wants this item
1:48 Su-57 (Zvezda 4824)
Zvezda 1:48
2020* | New tool
11. December 2019 at 10:42:08 Share

December 2, 2019

Treehugger owns this item
1:48 Super Etendard (Eduard 49791)
Super Etendard for Kitty Hawk
Eduard 1:48
2016 | New tool
2. December 2019 at 13:47:24 Share
Treehugger I always like when there are more than just one sheet of PE included. :) Also, found one at a good deal today with low shipping cost. I nearly confused the 'Kitty Hawk' kit (what I have) with the Kinetic one (what I initially thought I had). Hm, I did forget though, that some PE is included with the Kitty Hawk kit, but that is ok.

Hm, unsure, but I don't see a detailed intake duct in the Kitty Hawk kit, perhaps the Kinetic one offers that kind of detail. Heh, package is still on its way, I don't have the kit in my hands just yet.
2. December 2019 at 13:48:03
Add comment »
Be careful when taking out the parts from the box. The gray sprues are all placed in a single bag, and the four parts for the fan blades might/will start to snap if you goof about with the bag. The clear parts are in a separate bag.
1:144 Airbus A350-1000 (Zvezda 7020)
Airbus A350-1000
Zvezda 1:144
2019 | New tool
2. December 2019 at 11:19:34 Share

November 28, 2019

Q: Anybody know how to contact Roden (kit maker) for getting spare parts?

I have an email address (roden at roden dot eu), but nobody seem to reply back. Maybe a wrong or perhaps outdated email address.
28. November 2019 at 15:38:00 Share

November 27, 2019

Treehugger owns this item
1:35 Henschel 33 D1 Kfz.72 (ICM 35467)
Henschel 33 D1 Kfz.72 WWII German Radio Communication Truck
ICM 1:35
2012 | Changed parts
27. November 2019 at 15:40:14 Share
Treehugger owns this item
1:48 Super Étendard (Kitty Hawk KH80138)
Super Étendard
Kitty Hawk 1:48
2016 | New tool
27. November 2019 at 00:32:13 Share
Treehugger I initially bought this on eBay from China, but.. alas it was a scam and item never arrived, very annoying. A year later, I got this from a more local store.
27. November 2019 at 00:33:41
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November 26, 2019

Q: Have anybody recently ordered the BV300S-D - A3 Ducted Extraction Unit? I would like to know what it cost with or without VAT.
26. November 2019 at 11:21:13 Share
Q: Anybody know how to contact Benchvent in UK (they sell spray booths). Their online contact form doesn't work in any browser of mine. If they have an email address you know of, feel free to PM me this. Alternatively, if you could call them and ask if they are up and running, that would be great. I don't live in the UK. :)

Edit: I noticed that they have a page on ugh Facebook. So I sent them a message there. A landlord of mine forced me to use Facebook, so there we are.
25. November 2019 at 18:27:38 Share
Treehugger Thank you for the feedback!
25. November 2019 at 21:45:15
Treehugger Benchvent apparently have issues with either their pricing or their webpage. This is very annoying. :( I don't live in UK so I shouldn't pay VAT to both UK and my country. It isn't clear what the item even costs now. I hope they can sort this out.
26. November 2019 at 11:13:39
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November 24, 2019

1:35 scale? That is something else.

Still no 1:35 UH-1D kit from Kitty Hawk?
1:35 Bell OH-58 Kiowa (Revell 03871)
Bell OH-58 Kiowa
Revell 1:35
2019 | Changed box
24. November 2019 at 13:34:18 Share
Vallejo has their own youtube channel, something I thought was worth mentioning in case somebody wasn't aware of that.

In the video below, they use their 'pigment' products on a better looking die cast model.

Youtube Video

24. November 2019 at 11:24:41 Share

November 23, 2019

Treehugger owns this item
1:72 German Air Force Ground Crew (Zvezda 6188)
German Air Force Ground Crew
Zvezda 1:72
2015 | New tool
23. November 2019 at 12:09:52 Share
Treehugger owns this item
1:144 Airbus A350-1000 (Zvezda 7020)
Airbus A350-1000
Zvezda 1:144
2019 | New tool
23. November 2019 at 12:09:36 Share

November 22, 2019

Oh, Revell has competition here. I wasn't happy with the Revell one of the A350.
I can tell from looking at the building instructions that they seem to be two different molds, and they are built a little differently from one another.
1:144 Airbus A350-1000 (Zvezda 7020)
Airbus A350-1000
Zvezda 1:144
2019 | New tool
22. November 2019 at 12:46:14 Share

November 19, 2019

These look nice. I had no idea these existed. I have some PE of bolts, but the PE is obviously too flat, these other bolts looks like nuts and bolts.
1:35 Nuts and Bolts SET A (large) (Meng SPS-004)
Nuts and Bolts SET A (large) 156 pcs. each size -1.8 / 2.2 / 2.6 mm
Meng 1:35
2013 | New tool
19. November 2019 at 10:02:23 Share

November 13, 2019

I got an email from Hobby Boss today, after having solicited for some spare parts. They seem to link to a store for (Trumpeter) on Aliexpress. Not the response I was hoping for. They also said I could contact someone in particular, but failed to say how.

Iirc, Hobby Boss has this other spare parts request thing on their website, but I can't get that to even work. Very frustrating!
11. November 2019 at 15:28:01 Share
Treehugger Update: In all fairness, they did CC the email to another person. I didn't notice that.
I have contacted the other person and I would think I can get my extra sprues.

This means, I can get to have enough tiny handwheels for the Dora kit, as the kit doesn't provide enough of them. Although the center handwheels is probably next to impossible to see from the outside, the corrections I will be doing require more handwheels.
12. November 2019 at 11:56:28
Treehugger Update: I was given an email address in the emails CC field, and I have now paid for three A sprues, that contain lots of tiny hand wheels. That means I can at least get to add all the handwheels on inside and outside of the Dora model. They wanted 5 usd + 10 usd shipping for this. Paypal also added some 5 usd on top of that.
13. November 2019 at 13:48:20
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November 12, 2019

Treehugger added a new photoalbum.
17. December 2018 at 16:58:08 Share
View full thread (71 Comments)
Holger Kranich Dammit! I wouldnt expect that there is so much work on it to do!
2. November 2019 at 11:41:55
Treehugger I had started to remove the detailing on the kit parts, the two big parts, but.. probably quicker and easier to make new ones with sheet styrene. The thing about the general shape is that, if not everything is made to look, plausibly correct when comparing to photos, something is going to look way off and make other things look way off. So I think it is better to try make a good drawing, then everything is so much easier and better after that.
2. November 2019 at 13:12:44
Treehugger Image 92: It looks to me that the leaf suspension is also supported by a secondary suspension on both sides of the wheel, the two thingies that go downwards.
5. November 2019 at 16:59:12
Treehugger Image 93: High res image: (fixed)

Aah. Now I can finally get to complete the other stuff, with the carriages solved.

Edit: Ah, nope. I must fix some mirroring issue of a particular detail, and a little bit of cleanup. Done!

To clarify. So it turned out that, the measurements of 30m between the two hingepoints on the main structure seemed legit imo, and that the other stated distance between the two hinge points on the carriages, of 4250 x 2 mm, also seemed legit so to speak. I didn't trust the numbers at first, but eventually, they made good sense I think. The numbers are from a sketch in the German book on railway guns. The sketch itself looks bad, so that is why I didn't trust it.

Comparing the lower carriages in the kit box with my drawing, the kit carriages are ca 15mm longer, each (or, at least the front one is, not including the extra buffer part). :)

Comparing the top carriage in the kit box, with my drawing, the kit carriage is ca 9,5 mm longer.
5. November 2019 at 22:30:05
Treehugger Image 96: I thought I was done with the carriages, but I had to try something out to follow a new set of variables. I think I have made an improvement. Very hard for me to say if the carriages are supposed to be a little higher (they were lowered a bit) when comparing to photos. I changed a lot of things on the center main structure.

Edit: Ofc, I had forgotten to update something here in image 96.
9. November 2019 at 16:33:26
Treehugger Image 97: It just occurred to me, that, if I am a little lucky here, the reduced width of the top carriage, if ending up around 42 mm, would be the same width of the kit's photo etch. :) Only thing then, is that, the length of the kit's PE is 5mm longer, 2,5 mm fore and aft, than my current suggestion. Very, very interesting. :)
10. November 2019 at 14:06:53
Treehugger Image 98: Oooh. It looks like I can get to use the photo etch for the top carriage (four of them). And, it isn't obvious to me that this would make the top carraige too long either when comparing to the photos in the book. :)
11. November 2019 at 21:35:43
Treehugger Image 99: I looked at some more clues, and with a good photo with little to no perspective distortion on a plane, I figured the width of the main halves to be pretty much 875 mm, or 12.15 mm in 1:72 scale. Also, it seems obvious now, with one photo, that the lower "connector arm" simply can't have the same angle as the upper connector arm, which could explain why I couldn't fit them symmetrically on my drawing previously.
12. November 2019 at 15:28:45
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Treehugger owns this item
1:35 2cm Salvenmaschinenkanone SMK 18 - Typ 2 (Das Werk DW35005)
2cm Salvenmaschinenkanone SMK 18 - Typ 2
Das Werk 1:35
2019 | New tool
12. November 2019 at 08:32:33 Share

November 11, 2019

Q: Does the "medium" here indicate a more rough file, if compared to "Smooth"? Anybody know?
28. October 2019 at 14:48:03 Share
Pavel Šenk Yes, these medium are more rough (like rasp) than those Smooth ones.
11. November 2019 at 15:47:15
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November 1, 2019

Any idea if there are metal tracks for such a kit? I couldn't find any.

Alternatively, any non rubber track will also be an improvement I think. The rubber tracks that are included is said to be very good, though I would be tempted to get metal tracks if there is any.
1:35 Hitachi Excavator Zaxis 135US (Hasegawa 66001)
Hitachi Excavator Zaxis 135US
Hasegawa 1:35
66001 (WM01)
2017 | New tool
26. October 2018 at 10:39:32 Share
Skipperted The real thing doesn't have metal tracks... it has rubber ones
1. November 2019 at 09:49:04
Treehugger I am sure some of those machines have rubber tracks (I've seen it myself), but I think this one does have metal tracks, certainly looks like it, if you look at the box art.
1. November 2019 at 13:52:31
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October 28, 2019

28. October 2019 at 08:45:42 Share
Treehugger owns this item
28. October 2019 at 08:45:39 Share

October 21, 2019

Idea, for creating a rifled barrel, the easier way (as I imagine it):
1) Start with thin sheet of styrene, and eventually place that curved, and inside a hollow plastic barrel.
2) Add rifling, using thin styrene strips on a FLAT piece of thin styrene sheet
3) Place the customized sheet of styrene inside a hollow barrel, and create slight twirl.
4) Glue in place along that one seam, the whole way down through the barrel, and maybe glue on front/end as well..
5) Then.. saw the barrel to length and clean up.

Accurate placement of strips of styrene can be made, by filling the width of the sheet styrene with strips, glue on every other one, then remove the "spacers" to "create" the rifled grooves.

Does this sound like a plan or not? :)

This way, one can also get to paint the inside rifling, with a metallic color before placing it inside a cylinder!

Uuh, perhaps another way to create rifling, could be to scribe into plastic, but perhaps very very tricky to get proper parallel lines, ofc, slight errors might be unnoticable, practically speaking.

The Dora gun barrel has 96 + 96 grooves iirc. 96 top fins, and 96 grooves.

Hm, in order to get proper shape to the grooves, I could very gently sand the grooves with some tool, to avoid the "fins"/"grooves" being simply square shaped in cross section.
21. October 2019 at 15:19:29 Share
Martin Oostrom You want to create gun rifling in a 1/72 barrel? Brave, even on the Dora.
Go for it!
21. October 2019 at 16:04:52
Treehugger Ooh, yes, this might be more trickier than I first thought. The kit part cannon nozzle has 45 fins and 45 grooves.
21. October 2019 at 16:33:22
Treehugger Hm, if only I had a super accurate table with a measuring device, then I could scribe one line, move the whole thing by a rotating wheel, then scribe another line, and that should at least be someting that works in theory without having to eyeball it all.

Hm, maybe a custom piece of photo etch could work better. Each groove/fin would have to be about 0,175 and 0,2 mm wide each I think. Maybe in the realms of photo etch territory. But then again, if covering the whole barrel, the photo etch would have to be 40 cm long, which seems dubious in terms of comsumer grade photo etch stuff.

Uuh, I guess I could be forced to reduce the number of grooves/fins to someting that happens to match some strip of styrene. *goes to check*
21. October 2019 at 16:36:21
Treehugger Looks like 0.02" x 0.02" strips is the closest one with 0,5 x 0,5 mm, unless there are 0.01" x 0.01" square strips to be found. 0,5 x 0,5 mm strips would equal to about 40-48 grooves and 40-48 fins at first glance. Looks like 0.01" x 0.01" would be near perfect. :)

Hm there is such a thing as 0.01" x 0.02" strips. They would have to be eh sanded to equal length though, could be super easy. Just slide a fine flat metal file across an offset on both sides.
21. October 2019 at 16:45:53
Treehugger Hm. Barrel diameter on my drawing is 11,1 mm. Circumference being.. 34,854 mm. Divided by.. 192 parts.. for a sum of.. *drumroll* 0,1815 mm. Hm, a little less than 0,25 mm. Interesting. I guess, 0,25 would be a nice average, not that anywould would notice, unless they checked the size of the grooves closely. A difference of.. *drumroll* 37,7%. Not that bad. Uh, custom rifling being "merely" 37,7% larger than true to scale.
21. October 2019 at 16:56:09
Martin Oostrom Don't forget the diameter of the barrel is larger at the other end..... So your strips should widen a bit near the loading end. OR, just create the idea of rifling with some strip of a couple of cm on the business end.
21. October 2019 at 17:01:27
Treehugger No problem, the idea here is to just create the inner barrel, then an outer barrel is placed over the inner one. The outer barrel would be more massive at the end.

Update: Ah, one issue. The Evergreen styrene strips are not 40+ cm long. Hrm. I guess I could try hide the seams in the middle of the barrel. Strips are max 35 cm long or something like that.
21. October 2019 at 17:14:31
Treehugger Ugh, another problem: What does 69 + 69 strips of styene cost? Quite a lot! Actually, too much.

138 / 10 in each pack x say $4 = an awkward sum of $112, and I would probably need 50% more because each strips won't cover the lenght of the barrel, lol. Ah, shucks!!! This was such a fun idea. I am back to thinking of scribing the rifling, much cheaper. Another fun idea is to fill a barrel with putty, and then drag a styrene shape with the rifling pattern though it.

Hm with 96 grooves to be scribed, I think it might be a good idea to do the lines as halves of a total length, to avoid incremental measuring errors. E.g second scribe is half the distance of 96 fins, being 2 every 48 fins, next being 4 every 24 fins, next being 8 every 12 fins, next being 16 every 6 fins, next being 32 every 3 fins. Then, eventually there would be 32 pairs of grooves that has to be scribed to finish, but having no impact on general accuracy if the left of the grooves are more precise.

Btw, I noticed that Plaststruct has 0.01 x 0.01" square strips, but they are much shorter than the Evergreen ones. I've also seen that Plaststruct's styrene rods being uneven in width, which isn't comforting. Expected cost = ca $131 plus shipping. :( Just too much.
21. October 2019 at 17:51:30
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October 19, 2019

Q: How inconvenient is it to make custom made photo etch? Anybody know? Asking for a friend. :D
19. October 2019 at 14:18:36 Share

October 11, 2019

Q: Are there newer and better kits of the King George V class British battleship, specifically in 1:350 scale, other than the old Tamiya one? Anybody know? A newer one would be nice in 1:350.
11. October 2019 at 12:20:52 Share

October 10, 2019

Q: I've become aware of a new 1:350 Missouri kit from Joy Yard, should be in sale but I can't find a single review of it. Anyone have this kit? I've been scammed so many times on eBay now, I wouldn't know what seller to trust if the price is low'ish. I used to report suspected fraudulent listings on eBay but from a point, that function stopped working for me for reasons unknown.
10. October 2019 at 09:29:17 Share
Q: I've become aware of a new 1:350 Missouri kit from Joy Yard, should be in sale but I can't find a single review of it. Anyone have this kit? I've been scammed so many times on eBay now, I wouldn't know what seller to trust if the price is low'ish and with free shipping.
10. October 2019 at 09:28:40 Share

October 8, 2019

23. September 2019 at 20:05:46 Share
Ahmet Eren İspir I am thinking whether should I get this kit or not. Can you add some pictures of your build and would you suggest this kit as a first sailing ship model? I have built modern ships and other vehicles so it won't be my first ever kit.
6. October 2019 at 07:01:21
Treehugger I can show you some photos later today.

This is definitely an old mold, probably from somebody other than Zvezda. I would think that the plastic is good. The gunports aren't molded 100% symmetrically, so I have done a lot of sanding to adjust the horizontal position of the gunports. Vertically, they should be ok iirc. The sails, are hard/soft molded plastic. I thought on using fabric, but packing the sails, as I think it looks nicer. The cannons aren't very details. I ordered metal barrels, and 3D printed my own. But from a distance, the kit kannons probably look ok. The rigging for the side climbing stuff is all plastic. The kit contain different rolls of strings for the rest of the rigging. The deck and detaliling looks good I would say. I did buy aftermarket wooden deck, just to reduce the width of the planks. I also curved the deck, an experimental thing. There is no internal detail other than a plain cannon deck below. No cabin details iirc.

Yes, I think I can recommend this kit. I just don't know how difficult it will be to put up the plastic sails. the ship itself is a nice looking frigate. :) Some 50 cannons or so. Also, kit box have no figures iirc.
6. October 2019 at 09:34:15
Treehugger (these parts are 98% flash free in my box) (Not too large, not small, height unknown maybe 40+cm?, I doubled the thickness of hull here with sheet styrene) (all cannons, are one part only, no hole for the barrel, poor detailing but somewhat ok) (some of the stuff included, a nice nameplate and threads, some paper flag iirc) (sheet of thin plastic sail material) (What the side looks like, after careful sanding and filling, correcting some of the horizontal position of the cannon ports, should look ok by default if you aren't thinking too hard about it)

Some parts have flash on them. This is not an entirely flash free kit.
6. October 2019 at 10:33:16
6. October 2019 at 11:05:27
Ahmet Eren İspir Thank you guys, looks like I will get this kit when my Fletcher has done!
6. October 2019 at 15:17:57
Treehugger Might be better to get the one with the gray hull plastic, the zvezda one had black plastic. Unsure if the kits differ greatly or not with regard to content ohter than plastic (or anything).
6. October 2019 at 16:46:11
Ahmet Eren İspir I have seen only the zvezda one here, but will be searching for the other one also, this ship is really elegant...
6. October 2019 at 19:54:44
Treehugger I think galleon's look silly, frigates seems more beautiful I think.
6. October 2019 at 20:19:25
Richmond Check out the Revell - its listed here.

One thing to note these are very very old kits - I am in the middle of a Revell trawler and a tug and have another Gorch Forch in my stash and they are nothing like the quality of today's models - bad fitting, terrible overused moulds, lots of flash, seam lines and the parts themselves do not have the crispness and detail of todays models.

Unfortunatley the market does not exist for them to produce new kits. You only have to look at this newsfeed - very few ships built outside 20th century warhships.
7. October 2019 at 07:31:20
Ahmet Eren İspir Treehugger yes, I also feel the same for big line of ships, like HMS Victory. They look too fat and non aesthetic to me.

Richmond unfortunately, you are right. Seems like no one is interested in sailing ships anymore.
8. October 2019 at 10:58:02
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October 2, 2019

Q: Does anyone have a recommendation for an approx. 1 cm wide fine and flat file, for shaving off plastic? I'd like to know.

I will go check out some Japanese files I saw some time ago, but they are so pricey, would be nice to get something else cheaper, but it is ofc important that the metal file tool is actually flat and straight, not something I would expect from any cheap production. :|
2. October 2019 at 15:15:27 Share
Stefan Schacht Hallo Treehugger, my favorite file is a Flachfeile Hieb 3 150 mm (sorry I don´t know the English description). This file is normally used for steel and also works with plastic. I use it on almost every model. Cheers Stefan
2. October 2019 at 20:40:00
Treehugger Sounds nice, but how wide is this file?
2. October 2019 at 20:55:09
Stefan Schacht the file is 15mm wide, the smaller version is 100mm x 12mm
2. October 2019 at 21:05:16
Treehugger Thank you for the input! :)
2. October 2019 at 21:21:40
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I think I've come up with an idea for making custom railings in 1:72 scale. Basically, on a styrene sheet, scribe lines resembling the centerline of segments of metal railings, and place bits of styrene rods on the groove, and glue things with hopefully full control, making it all look nice with good accuracy.

I guess such a jig might work for soldering metal rods togehter, though I have no idea how easy it is to make the joints look flush without lots of work. Feel free to chime in on precisely that issue of soldering small metal rods together.

This way, it should be easy to make multiple jigs, that are custom made for various parts of an arrangement of metal railings on a ship or heh railway cannon.
2. October 2019 at 15:38:25 Share
I finished my setup of Vallejo paint racks: Should be good for 200++ 17ml bottles. I try to keep all my reserve bottles of same paint, elsewhere.

The two larger racks at the rear was glued together with wood glue, using clamps for a whole day for it to stick. Side by side, the cut out wooden parts didn't align 100%, but good enough for the base to sit firmly on the top of the drawer.

The drawers are Ikea's Alex series. Really nice for once to have tools in separate places and not bunched up in a box or something. I plan to draw on a descriptive name on each drawer on the outside, so that I don't have to keep opening and closing the drawers only to figure out where I left stuff. :)

The cheap paint racks in the back stands on stacks of 2 x A4 copy paper (six in total), and the front racks are Vallejo paint racks. I like how the bottles of cleaner, thinner and flow enhancer is nicely stashed on the side.

I may or may not consider figuring out a way to make the racks sit more firm onto the drawers.
2. October 2019 at 13:03:49 Share

October 1, 2019

Today I received an A1 sized cutting mat that I had ordred recently. I was happy to see that they shipped it in a flat condition, and not rolled up as I imagined they might try. :D Shipped from UK and was delivered with just some thin transparent plastic around the whole thing.
1. October 2019 at 21:15:51 Share

September 29, 2019

Btw, care has to be taken with this kit, in order to avoid gluing shut the thin opening that is seen on each side of the hull. I had to add some styrene to make the build easier, as the large top side part was too wobbly when dry fitting. The newer release of this kit was seen for cheap in a store yesterday if anyone is into that, a very nice price apparently not knowing the shipping costs or the store itself. The store had a good review on this other modeling website I used to frequent, which I no longer contribute on as they haven't bothered arranging for using TLS/HTTPS connection for their new website.

Also, this kit probably has some exaggerated panel lines on the outside of the hull, which might as well be filled with putty I think.
29. September 2019 at 09:43:48 Share
I like how there is an option for "trashed" to one's kit box status. :D I have already trashed one kit.
29. September 2019 at 09:33:35 Share
I like how there is an option for "trashed" to one's kit box status. :D I have already trashed one kit. I should probably have kept the model for airbrushing practice, but too late now.
29. September 2019 at 09:32:40 Share

September 28, 2019

Tip: Ah, I just figured out how to make a "window-wipe" pattern on windows (like when dusty) on vehicles. So obvious now that I see other make this in a youtube video. Just place a piece of masking tape and add the dust, then remove the masking tape. *smacks forehead* :D
28. September 2019 at 11:18:55 Share
Urban Gardini Senior moment de luxe eh...
28. September 2019 at 11:54:25
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September 27, 2019

Weird idea: It just occurred to me watching youtube videos of paint shakers.. that for something like a Vallejo 17ml paint bottle or a 200ml primer bottle, you could maybe just use a 12V computer fan running off your computer, and somehow.. attached the bottle at the center, thus, the bottle should start spinning around and hopefully move the agitator ball you probably put inside. Good idea or not? :D

Or, create this special "drill bit" for your drill that only required the drill bit to hold onto a bottle, and then you could have the bottle stand out from the drill (more like stirring and not shaking), and you effortlessly squeeze the drill button, to see the drill spin up and down moving the agitator around.
27. September 2019 at 15:41:43 Share
Alex Or you could spend EUR 15.00 on Ebay for a nail polish bottle shaker (exactly the same one Mig sells for EUR 35.00) :)
27. September 2019 at 17:30:28
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Simple paint mixer experiment: (image) Using Trumpeter's paint mixer.

This is an unstable apparatus, and only works well if hold firmly, or possibly held in place in a vice or fixed to something solid so it doesn't move around. The tape part isn't the best (Tamiya 18mm masking tape).
27. September 2019 at 16:01:36 Share
Treehugger Hm, this works surprisingly well even if I simply hold it horizontally. I wonder how well the paint is mixed this way. Presumably the bottle will spin faster than the agitator ball inside. The 18mm masking tape also keeps the bottle still in place, it didn't come loose or snap (so far).

One could ofc just open the caps and stick the blender into the bottle, but then you have to clean up the paint smeared onto the mixing tool. I've seen the paint level in a humbrol bottle rise when using this thing inside it, I wonder if a thin Vallejo bottle would overflow when starting this thing up, inside a bottle that is fairly full of paint. Hmm. Outside shaking like in the image seems safer.
27. September 2019 at 16:06:32
Treehugger I don't know, I think I would *cough* prefer stirred not shaken. :)

I also found this product, which looks like a super shaker, but also with a super high price as well. :D
27. September 2019 at 16:20:10
Add comment »
Weird idea: It just occurred to me watching youtube videos of paint shakers.. that for something like a Vallejo 17ml paint bottle or a 200ml primer bottle, you could maybe just use a 12V computer fan running off your computer, and somehow.. attached the bottle at the center, thus, the bottle should start spinning around and hopefully move the agitator ball you probably put inside. Good idea or not? :D Maybe better if you could have a circuit that spinned the fan up and down, to make sure the agitator inside moved around.
27. September 2019 at 15:40:47 Share
Treehugger added a new project.
Albums: 1 with 100 images
In progress
1:72 80cm K(E) Railway Gun &quot;Dora&quot; (HobbyBoss 82911)
17. December 2018 at 14:50:33 Share
Treehugger So.. I hear there are corrections to be made to this kit. I better hop to it. In the beginning, I will rely on the videos by "Nigel's modeling bench" on youtube, and then I will have a look for myself when I get a book I ordered. I think I will do some other changes to the barrel.

Disclaimer: I don't quite know how to best correct the Hobby Boss kit, but I will try.

So far: I ordered a pack of six separate metal rails of the type O gauge zink silver flat bottom rails (Peco IL-7FB), something in between the possibly over-sized rails and the most realistic sized rails, to try make the new metal rail fit to the plastic sleepers and other track parts. I ordered a book in German with lots of photos which will arrive later this week. I have started to investigate shortening the barrel and tweak all the wheels. I will try to fix the shape of the eight carriages if I can figure out how, or at least add some missing detailing with styrene. I will try add details to the breech, and more. I might attempt to correct the lower part of the main body if it makes any sense to me. The height of the hand railing is also something that is suspected to be a little wrong.
17. December 2018 at 15:08:20
Dave Flitton Time to write the definitive "Building the Dora in 1/72"
26. December 2018 at 20:21:36
Treehugger It is a nice thought, but that would be a lot of work. The important thing for me is to try figure out the basic stuff. Although all of this might look complicated, doing one thing at a time will eventually lead to completion. :) A little here and there and the kit would be done in no time.

The most important correction is probably the shortening of the barrel, and I thought it was a good idea to make this drawing to bring some sense to the chaos of all the different variables that make up the carriages and how it all looks.

I will probably find more things to fix and I will try mention them, but I don't think I will make some definite build guide, unless maybe I can try keep track of the changes I make.
26. December 2018 at 21:13:52
Treehugger Edited.. Heh, I will have to keep scratching my head about this.

Uuuh. Looking at proportions of a drawing and the kit, now suspect that the kit is ca 0.72 m too short in the middle in total. As if someone put a ruler across that one drawing in a book, and measured the bottom length, but failed to see that the two pages showing the drawing is shortened because of the way the two pages are put into the book. Hm, I think that would also explain why the kit seemed too tall. The drawing that is spanning two pages at the center, would show undistorted height, but a too-short length, because of the two page span.

Comparing the kit top, to the drawing in the book, I might get lucky, as it seems that the top part is proportional to that drawing. Unsure about the ass end of the top side.

This is so exciting! :D It is close to 03:30 in the middle of the night, time to go to bed.
30. December 2018 at 02:18:07
Treehugger I am discovering more things. I have good hope of making all of these changes. Top part of cannon, is not supposed to start at the front edge, but have an inset of about 5mm according to photos.

In sketch version 20, I have arranged the numerous hand wheels in sequence, and the spans in between the hand wheels was made equal. I added a third hand wheel where I once thought there were only two, and fortunately it made sense to also widen main shape by 5 mm, perhaps two fixes in one if I am a little lucky.

I think, if I turn out to be a little lucky here, if extending the main shape by 1 cm in total (0.72m in 1:1), I can perhaps just extend the big floor on rear top, by same amount.

Full png file: (re-re-re-re-re-re-uploaded)

Note: The German book on railway cannons, on page 160-161, have a side view plan drawing, however this looks like a concept drawing, and not the real thing, so I don't trust the measurements given. Maybe just a related project.

Same drawing, but with the other half added to show the full length of the main shape.

When switching over from Photoshop to GIMP (free) the transparency in the layers got messed up and pixels for antialised lines for the wheels got shifted. Have to clean that up later. Unsure if I want to re-work the wheel area on the carriages more, as it would probably require further changes to the kit parts, which may or may not be difficult.
30. December 2018 at 14:34:52
Treehugger Hrm..

So.. looking at the plan drawing on page 160-161 in that German book on Railway cannons, it is all too clear that this particular drawing is not the size of the Dora cannon. More like 81% of the Dora (or, some parts are). And clearly the shape of the top carriages look off on that drawing.

The tallest part of the ends of the main body that stretches between all the carriages, are clearly as tall as a human. When I convert the numbers given on the plan drawings in the book, that end, is merely about 81% of what was expected, and low compared to the height of a human figure, even if that human figure on the photo was as low as 160 cm tall, the end would be no taller than 160, around 155 cm.

At least the kit part on the ends, looks about the correct size, in simply assuming that the human figure is 183 cm tall.

I can't help wonder if photos possibly could have been be doctored, or if maybe they used oddly tall/low figures on some of the photos intentionally.


The quest continues to try figure this all out.

I had to start making a larger drawing, to better get to draw those numerous hand wheels along the side of the main shape.
31. December 2018 at 13:05:59
Treehugger Soon, I will get to continue and eventually finish the detail drawings needed to make the desired changes to this kit, without making a mess. :) Project having been on pause for about a year now. The model itself will require some planning and changing, but it looks to me it will be fairly easy, if only a little time consuming, expecting to be re-using a lot of the kit parts. I think it will be worth it.

As for the most elaborate change, basically, the two larger parts will have to be reshaped a little, removing a lot of detaling, and re-building that detailing with styrene, starting with a flat strip of "metal plating" that goes across the whole thing on the sides which is also a base for all the numberous tiny hand wheels. From that, if placed accurate, the rest of the details will follow. I will consider 3D printing some of the numerous tiny parts, but eh, a bit expensive and doens't improve the look that much I think (the tiny round base for each hand wheel).

The tricky part is making the accurate drawing based on nothing by more or less unclear photos in a book.

For the 24 pistons on the sides, I have ordred Albion Alloy brass tubes in imperial measurement 5/32 and 3/16. This should be a nice fit, for having one cylinder fit into the other, and also fit the desired size of the pistons on the model. Didn't cost too much, at least being something affordable. One pack of each below, will do nicely.

ALBBT5 - Albion Alloys - 12" x 3/16" Round Brass Tube (3 pieces) # BT5 - £ 4.32
ALBBT4 - Albion Alloys - 12" x 5/32" Round Brass Tube (4 pieces) # BT4 - £ 3.94
27. September 2019 at 13:04:43
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Tip: I just assembled this rack for x75 Vallejo Paint bottles. I am very happy with this design. Had to use a rubber hammer to make the wooden parts click into each other, very gently. Also added wood glue on the joints afterwards, and making sure the rack was on a flat surface and pointing up at a good of a straight angle as I could. I filled the rack with bottles to add some weight to the structure as the glue dries now for the next few hours. I have another one I will assemble. Will probably put these on a couple of low boxes, so that I also can use some lower Vallejo rack at the front to avoid wasting space on this Ikea drawer furniture. :) Wood material is not as solid as the more expensive ones looks imho, but at least it did not break on me during assembly. Seems sturdy enough. (image of rack)
27. September 2019 at 09:09:51 Share
Holger Kranich Looks very handy to me!
27. September 2019 at 11:52:19
Munkyslut That's excellent!
The beauty of it is you could store anything, paints, glues, brushes, pipettes, solvents etc.
I'd like to build one myself, I think I'm going to add a slide out drawer in either side to hold extra stocks.
27. September 2019 at 12:03:04
Treehugger Quick note, this rack is not colored white, more like a light tan. I suppose I could airbursh on some white primer later on. I've been thinking of having some kind of rack for brushes and such, but I haven't managed to come to an agreement withmyself about what I really want. I have a long'ish desk surface with drawers on each side, so that works for now. :)
27. September 2019 at 12:12:25
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I think I've mentioned this before, but I would very much like to see a change in how the notifications are displayed. The following suggestion shows the buttons having different background colors, currently they share the same color background and replies to self is hard to notice this way it is working now. (suggestion illustrated with an image)
26. September 2019 at 13:45:43 Share
Holger Kranich Very nice! This is a good Suggestion!
26. September 2019 at 17:50:48
Treehugger Thank you! :) Presumably this would just require a little CSS magic, with a dedicated eh class or something for whatever types of text is listed in the notifications. The solution would be super easy if the text was already
a set of buttons, that way you can easily have several different looking buttons to get a nice contrast, with a simple and quick workout in a 2d editor, by simply changing the hue of the background color to something else.

So the way notifications work afaik, is that all listed notifications are basically unread notifications, so once you read one by opening a link in a new tab, it goes off the list of current and "unread" notifications.

Eh, being a novice webdesigner, if there is an option in the code for the various "text" options seen under notifications, then maybe replace the text with a piece of graphic. Translations would be required ofc, so different buttons in different languages, unless English is default somehow.
26. September 2019 at 19:53:19
Treehugger Thank you admin. This seems to work nicely now, when I looked at my screen just now a moment ago. :)
27. September 2019 at 12:09:22
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September 26, 2019

<-- Went on a shopping spree on eBay the last few days, before new customs rules impose mandatory 25% VAT and customs fee on every little thing shipped from outside my country. It is important that expected shipping delivery times is well within the end of December, ideally before the beginning of the month of December.
26. September 2019 at 20:31:17 Share
Q: Re. Infini sanding sticks. I've ordered some Infinit sponge sticks for sanding. I am wondering if anyone has already tried splitting them in two or three to make the wide sanding sticks thinner and maybe without out the sanding stick coming unglue or something.
26. September 2019 at 20:24:27 Share
Q: Anybody know of a good modeling store with metal tubes measured in mm and not fractions of inches?

I am trying to find 4,5mm tubes in metal ideally, with a 4,0 mm hole ideally to fit a heh 4,0 mm cylinder/rod.
26. September 2019 at 16:51:41 Share
Thomas Bischoff I use Albion products Brass Micro Tube Assortment ...) (Albion Alloys SFT10, No)
Not 100% match but quite close

No Brass Micro Tube Assortment 305 x 4.0/5.0/6.0mm (3 Pcs.) (Albion Alloys SFT10)
26. September 2019 at 17:00:50
Murad ÖZER Treehugger hello, albion alloys probably has anything and everything in the dimension you are looking for however they are a manufacturer, not sure if you can directly buy from them. just do a search for their products on the internet you'll get a lot of online stores which is suitable for you.
26. September 2019 at 17:11:01
Treehugger Thanks for the input. Oooh, I wish I was rich, then I would have bought a milling/lathe machine. :D
26. September 2019 at 17:18:38
Treehugger Fiddling with my calculator, it seems I would be all set if I could find two Albion tubes with 6/32" and 5/32" diameter, however I only see the 7/32" and 5/32" tubes. :| According to my calc. the first two, with 0.014 thickness would pretty much fit very well inside each other (piston like item).
26. September 2019 at 17:31:49
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26. September 2019 at 13:39:44 Share
26. September 2019 at 13:39:22 Share


2019-09-26 13:39:17

2016-12-08 20:43:11




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