I thought at first it was for sanding, but now I am confused. I thought maybe there was some sanding paper to be attached, but I can't find any info on this.
Product name: Dspiae ES-S "Etching Sheet Sanding Bored Set"
[img1] (image upload)
You attach the sanding paper to them, DSPIAE sells the sanding paper with adhesive in the back. you just neee to cut it
Oh, ok. Thank your for the feedback! 🙂
I even looked really hard for the stuff at their brand store, but couldn't find it. I'll try again.
I just pasted "Etching Sheet Sanding Bored Set" in Youtube 🙂
Well, thanks for contributing.
I use them, satisfied about it, you can sand with great force on a very small place. They are a bit thick (I have very thin ones from Gunze). There are also pre-shaped sandpaper holders of DSPIAE. I have one where you can put the sandpaper in a 90 degrees L holder. Also a nice tool
Edit: Hm, looks like the end result is still not yet completely smooth though, but perhaps good enough.
October 11, 2021
They explain the issue at their store (which afaik uses TLS encryption), and links to a Microsoft webpage warning and explanation, dating back to september, which seems to sketch up an attack vector from spoofed emails (fake emails) and presumably people visiting or having downloaded something after reading email. I won't claim to understand this. Seems I am ok though, but (and as I understood it) the store warning says that he thinks fraudulent credit card transactions happened the last month, and seems to say that people impacted by this have been warned by their banks, with the effect of credit cards being frozen.
October 9, 2021
I'm hopping on this one or I will try to, taking imo a risk with some new things like 3d printed parts + resin. Hopefully the clear parts look good. Stuff is also in production so afaik nobody has gotten their kit yet.
Cool, big beast in 1:32. Will defenitely follow
According to LSP forum, some people have recently gotten their kit from the first batch run. I placed an order for the second batch, and the second batch is said to start deliveries in Jan 2022 iirc.
Have been told mine will be towards mid-late October. Cannot wait.🙏 Looks like a lot of prep work with parts separation and cleanup, but detail looks fantastic. Clear resin looks good....may try to make a vacuform if I'm not ecstatic over the canopy. All time favorite Jet.
I think I learned recently that the resin, was said to be specifically uv resistant to some degree as an improvement to plain resin as I understand it, such that the clear resin doesn't yellow that easily, but I think it maybe was said that one ought to not keep the model in direct sunlight, like I guess, just next to a window.
The large resin parts, are hollow parts afaik, so no solid blocks of heavy resin.
I will try clean up the 3d printed parts a little, by a combination of scraping, sanding and adding diluted vallejo putty that self level, but have poor filling power. I honestly don't know how this will turn out, but I think I can improve on the 3d printed parts, as they obviously aren't as smooth as typical injection moulded plastic.
My initial impression from looking at the photos other's have shown, I am glad I hopped onto this. I think I will make either a metal skin Viggen, or, maybe, a white colored one.
Yeah, if I had two(😍) I would do a splinter camo for sure, but since I get one shot at this it, will be the more typical(but worn and weathered) two tone grey scheme. The 3D parts really do look quite nice. It will be a blessing if the resin doesn't involve those really heavy duty casting block connections.
Since last week there is an unboxing video, is already linked here under the kit. Looks great, especially the tail is awesome.
What I don't like is that, for example, the fuselage parts are supposed to be butt glued. I'm also worried about the landing gear. I question if the printed parts will safely support the weight?
I have no idea when mine will arrive, but I'm excited as hell. 😄
No question, it must be the splinter camo! The masks from DN-Models are already here. 😉
I think I remember that the devs said that they tested the weight of the landing gear, and iirc they tested with something like an additional kilo of weight before the landing gear finally gave in.
As for the fuselage parts, I think I might explore using custom guide pins, to avoid stressing with the work of gluinging the big parts together, and maybe reinforcing the glue work this way by adding guiding pins, to avoid simply gluing two butt sides together (no idea if the glue could ever come undone. I think super glue is bad against shear forces, so if you bump a model into a table, perhaps two previoulsy glued parts might snap off each other.
Heh, I learned recently that, if you press two parts together, gluing with super glue, it goes hard surprisingly fast, probably because the surface area of the glue becomes thin as opposed to being a ball of liquid. I will make sure to never ever use a large blog of superglue, unless, the two parts are already in good contact (as if relying on capillary reaction for the glue to seep inwards).
I wonder how super glue debonder will react to resin (!). Seems to me that, debonder will soften injection moulded plastic (which is unfortunate).
September 22, 2021
Stop ruining the portholes on your ship kits by being so lazy and moulding the port holes horizontally, surely you must know that this is not how geometry works if you want to create circular port holes. The excavation of a solid must happen perpendicular to the angled surface, not just horizontally with the water surface. Ovals and circles are really two different things.
Having to fix ship kits is really starting to get annoying.
Luckily, it was a minor photo etch set (1:700 supercarrier parts). 🙂
September 20, 2021
Few few years, easy. It does slowly evaporate, so its a matter of how much dissapears. Make sure cap is on tight and keep in cool dark place.
I have been using lacquer thinner as an airbrush cleaner for a long time with excellent results. Never noticed any residue.
September 17, 2021
Well, about time I got myself one of these.
Crap, I forgot to include this in my latest order. 🙁
September 16, 2021
Nobody, except for one firm in Netherlands seems to be selling a wash bottle that has a cap on it. Well, except something on ebay which I don't like the design of. 🙁
I thought maybe Vallejo sold some some kind of dispenser accessory but I couldn't find anything, it would be important that the bottle tip had a removable/attachable cap, else the cleaning liquid would probably just stink up the place without a cap on.
September 15, 2021
I will admit 1:18 scale would be very nice. Bandai's 1:48, just isn't large enough in some sense. 🙂 (I have that one in 1:48).
September 14, 2021
September 13, 2021
Btw, UV curing equipment sounds dangerous, but I know next to nothing about such tools.
No, they are not UV sensitive - to my knowledge. The standard cyanoacrylate uses OH-Ions from the moisture in the air to harden.
UV sensitive glues have special ingredients, that will react to the UV light. There are weak lights, that need no protection. There are stronger lights, where you should protect your eyes and there are very strong lights that you should not get on your skin.
How dangerous UV light is strongly depends on the wavelength (A, B, C Type) and the power. UVA is relatively save but causes skin aging and can cause cancer. UVB will cause sunburn and cancer if your get to much and UVC is even worse.
Hm, says here 365 nm wavelength, assuming that is correct. This is the product that shines the uv light. Apparently UVA rays. I will try find some more information about it, it is probably for curing glue but I am not 100% sure.
Edit: A youtuber points out that such uv light should be used with basic protection like uv glasses which makes good sense I think. In addition to inadvertently looking at the uv light, I suspect the uv light can also bounce around back into your eyes, which according to some other guy on youtube, says your eyes won't notice the wavelength and will eventually take damage.
Btw, another concern of mine, is keeping all these battery powered thingies around in my apartment. I guess the only concern are those cheapest 18650 batteries with no safety circuit built into them and other such cheap products that may be sub part in terms of safety.
Btw, I noticed the other day this interior car monitoring system (cameras) product which supposed uses capacitors and not batteries for its remote use, presumably rechargeable, unless I misunderstood things. Sounded strange though, as if capacitors replaced batteries.
To use protective glasses is no bad idea. I personally would not worry about reflection (if it is not a very powerful device). The reflections will be very, very weak and should be no concern.
An your eyes will definitely not notice and react to the UV light. And always keep in mind, that during a walk in the sun you also get a lot of UVA radiation - often without protection.
September 12, 2021
I have tried to sharpen the dull ones, but I haven't been able to do so consistently, maybe I could try it again.
Anyone familiar with this presumably new product? Doesn't seem to have moving parts, and I don't know how it is supposed to work.
Interesting, looks as a technique from labs, let us know your experience 👍
One objection/concern, is the apparent lack of a regulator, it seems to me that maybe this product has one speed only. I guess I should check and see if the product has a regulator for the speed, or not. I guess, if crazy fast then, I guess one would want to maybe limit the time used mixing the paint.
Looking at the vortex pulling in air maybe, looks imo a little weird, maybe not the best for paints I am thinking, but maybe the effect of this is marginal. I vaguely remember someone pointing out in a video that, shaking the bottles upside down, mixes air with the paint, suspecting the mixing method changes the consistency of paint. And it if doesn't do it once, then maybe repeated mixes might, but heh maybe not.
I've seen a review of this product, that tried metal balls. That review suggested that rod vs balls was a draw, but precise placement of the paint bottle on the device was more important to a good mix. Interesting to see how you get on long term.
I was thinking, it is not possible to see inside a Vallejo paint bottle. So, when I get one, I would want to cut a couple of bottles open and fill it with liquid and see how the rods are spinning, given that the bottom of those bottles aren't like smooth glass. Ideally I could try find some more gooey liquid, but I don't know what that could be, or I could perhaps sacrifice some amount of primer paint from one of my large bottles. I wouldn't be able to see the moving piece though with primer paint, but I could at least get a visual on any swirls on the top side, then use water to see how the metal parts actually spins around.
In the website they seem to indicate ("seem" because it is the Chinese version, and you can not use google translate with images....) that you need a flat bottom. Also, it seems obvious that if there is a bump in the bottom, the distance to the magnets increases and it may be less effective. Also the rod may not spin so freely.
In one review the guy complained about how the switch of the dspiae works. I believe there is no speed regulation. either is full power with usb connection, or lower speed with batteries.
It may be possible to use a variable power supply using USB cable. Then you can have different voltages and different settings. But in that case, better build the complete thing, I think.
I am just looking over the parts, as usual when getting a new kit, doing some easy clean up stuff while listening to youtube videos.
I think this will be a fun and no stress project adding wiring. 🙂
I've started to change the barrel shape a little, to have a metallic inner part that presumably recoil into the cannon when fired, will use self adhesive metal foil for this area. Doing basic clean up work on the wheels and track links. This kit imo does not properly show the inner part of the barrel, so I want to fix that. Photos show the inner part of the barrel having a shiny part, so presumably the barrel recoil into the housing part when fired I am thinking.
The kit comes with two sets of actuator arms, and can show the barrel pointing forwards, or, tilted upwards into the sky, both at set angles. This can be switched without gluing anything. Ofc, the aftermarket photo etch is only enough for one set of actuator arms, not both sets.
Will eventuall paint the wheels with the white parts here and there, which I guess is ceremonial.
The housing for the two actuator arms are not the same size, this seems bizarre, but apparently looks like this on some photos (but not the box art). Ofc, photos and/or box art might have been mirrored at some point.
September 10, 2021
September 9, 2021
Blue super-imposes the white in -both- world wars (Home defence night fighters in ww1) for low-vis purposes. After the end of ww2 in August, RAF reverted to its blue, white circles and red dot and there are several types and dimensions of each 'ring'. There was a narrow yellow outside ring on some ww2 roundels.
Rudder flash btw was reversed to red white blue from the original french blue white red (from port side) in 1934.
Good question : )
September 8, 2021
September 7, 2021
Hm, seems like, kit makers are now simplifying tracks making them look less realistic. I've seen this with metal tracks for Panda Hobby kit, and here too in plastic, instead of having an intermediary joint part between two track parts, there's eventually just one track part glued to the other, with the intermediate part moulded onto the track parts, which afaik is not realistic.
September 6, 2021
Btw, I counted the track links. 12 sets of 18, for a total of 216, or 108 on both sides. Build guide states the kit requires 101 track links on each side, so there is apparently 7 spare track links on each side. 🙂
The tracks are not moving and have to be glued in place. No ejection pin marks what so ever. There are four stubs for each track link that has to be cleaned up.
September 4, 2021
I thought I would add some oils later on. Hm, now that I think about it, maybe going for totally smooth a paintjob might not be entirely necessary, I never thought about this.
I will airbrush on 'intermediate blue' on the sides, and add the light gray on top of sides later when I get to add the railings. I'll also add the black strip that probably runs right in the middle of what I think might be a torpedo belt armor on the sides. In preparation for the 'intermediate blue' color, I have sanded the whole thing smooth. I managed to create the waterline pretty much spot on I think, so that at least I am very happy with.
Yes a totally smooth paint job, while pleasing to the eye on a model, is not how ships really looked. They were painted by sailors or yardmen with buckets of paint and brushes usually. Im sure you can imagine the different amounts of color in sections being painted by many guys who just wanted to get done. 🙂
Patience is definitely paying off Treehugger.
Looking closer, after having added the thin bit of strip styrene all along the top edge of the deck there were so many gaps and tiny pits, took a while to go over them. I think I fixed maybe 95% of them.
I am glad I did this extra work, as I learn to just take my time trying to fix things by a little bit of patience.
Uuh, I forgot to mention it, but I will add another layer of red there, and THEN add the black line. I hope I don't forget that order. 🙁
Oof. I think now I must make a plan, a DRAWING , planning out how I can divide the longer photo etch railings, such that the railings best can mist with the existing details. It seems unrealistic to think I can just fiddle with this long PE railing and also mix it into the various details that require modification to the photo etch. :|
September 3, 2021
Oh, ok. This model is a waterline model, and as such, does not have the bottom part included.
September 1, 2021
To my surprise, this is not a large kit box. The huge barrel fits in the box by itself so I guess that explains why there wasn't this huge box. 🙂
August 29, 2021
Delivery is according to an email is said to be starting January 2022. This is the second batch btw.
Not sure but it seems like these figures maybe have to be bought from their website: http://reedoak.com
I thought I should just carefully point out that, although the box art for the 1:48 looks the same as the newer one in 1:72, a modeler should must know that they are entirely different kits.
August 28, 2021
They painted the brass barrel EXCEPT for the shiny bit, which was masked off. 🙂
[img1] (image upload)
August 22, 2021
August 21, 2021
I wonder if these were also military busses. I vaguely recall seeing something similar in the movie "We were soldiers". Could ofc have been some other bus brand.
No, that doesn't work. That's why I use different airbrushes for different types of paint.
August 19, 2021
I vabuely remember reading something like that. Reason for asking: I have the Iwata HP-CS Eclipse, but its optimal psi is rather high iirc, iirc much more than 20 psi. I often get the sense that the airflow is too low when airbrushing at 20 psi with my Iwata airbrush, I thought maybe other airbrush models might have distinctively different performances, overlooking what is best for just detail work.
probably you only need a smaller nozzle?
Oh, ok. So my current needle/nozzle setup is 0.35. I also have one custom sized 0.50, but I never get to use it.
My crude understanding of airbrush variants, is that the smaller ones are 0.20 nozzles and maybe 0.15, but unsure.
I use almost always a 0.2 nozzle - works well with 20psi
Thank you for the feedback! 🙂
Would be nice to have been done with the paintwork here, but I sort of think the white waterline seen in photo 15 ended up being much too thick. 🙁 I am not sure this submarine have the waterline painted on normally, though the paint guide suggest as much. I used the lazy option of using the thinnest masking tape I had, which is 1 mm. Still, too wide.
Looks good to me, but of course I don't have pictures of the actual sub.
I hope you like it. 🙂 It is really fun getting to see results like this, as I have some ten sub kits in my stash, or more. 😄 Learning some more stuff, little by little.
Edit: Oh, I nearly fogot, I've seen a no-slip surface on the top deck on a photo, I will airbrush on matte varnish to make this look like a no-slip area. I already tried this on some other model and it looked nice.
I imagine one could add some basic weathering, like stripes going from the upper side and down towards the water, but I don't really know what to use. I guess, it is time to find a scrap model and try stuff out. I will add a gloss coat or two or three, and then a satin varnish with maybe some matte varnish mixed into it. Also, there are some decals, the propeller to be glued on, the masts, and I guess I could add some figures. Also, I nearly forgot, because I painted the sub in a lighter black, I should be able to add some black pin wash around the missile tube hatches.
I added water stains and rust streaks to my Gato class sub using white oil paint, burnt umber and pastel chalk. Just apply a small drop of oil paint where you want the streak, and using a stiff bristle brush just stroke downward, If it is to much, just dab the brush in enamel thinner and remove most of the thinner on a rag, then repeat the downward stroke until you get the effect you want.
Interesting. Hm, I have this other hull I've painted, but failed to clean things up properly (USS Thresher). I guess I should look for some proper oils next week.🙂 I could use that painted model as a test/scrap model. No big deal.
There you go, good idea.
Product number: ICT-0007, or, ICT0007.
Update: Ah, ok. I see now a little later that this seems to be a preorder item, so I guess a brand new type of item.
Also, I learned a new word today: HIPS or high-impact polystyrene.
The airflow pumped out is still strong, but I never have a good idea how far out the spray booth sucks air in. I wish I had a larger spray booth, a more powerful one.
August 13, 2021
Very nice! Thank you.
No problem mate!
August 11, 2021
Oh, wow I had no idea such a product existed for 1:350 bofors guns. 🙂
I've caught something like 15 flies today. Some of they goof back into the apartment via an open window. :|
Live and learn 🙂
You are collecting 'karma-scores' 😉
We have fly wire in Australia to stop them coming in the window but most importantly to stop mosquitoes.
It would be awful without it
Somewhat unrelated, but I thought I'd show it anyway: Going camping, there are these "flies". Bites into your skin, fairly aggressive. Though some are gentle, unnoticeable, like the one on my arm here: https://www.reddit.com/r/camping/comments/omsizp/surprisingly_annoying_when_camping_chrysops/
Looks like Revell has some competition in the 1:144 scale, but ofc I guess Revell aren't making their Type VIIc's anymore.
August 8, 2021
Well, either it is leaking oil from the bottom or the oil comes from me pulling the emergency valve thingy to test it, which releases some oil apparently, which may have run down to the bottom plate on the underside. But I can't find the location of the leak by listening to the hiss sound. 🙁
Update: Hm, If I turn the adjustable air pressure air valve, there is no leakage. So.. I've always had the habit of just turning the know around, never using the lock function. The adjustment knob, can be pressed down by a snapping sound, locking it, I never used it, as I never thought it would be necessary.
Update 2: So, there is something leaking around the adjustment valve but I can't feel it, just hear it, and pressure gauge indicator show dropping pressure from 6.5 Bar(max).
So, the thing leaks when I turn the adjustment valve up from minimum (below 10 psi) to 20. If I adjust further, to 30 psi (as if I wanted to airbrush with 30 psi), then the compressor leaks more air than it puts back in.
I always empty my tank when I shut it off, mine had a bad hose connection between the tank and the compressor itself. I fixed it with some tungsten tape
Q: Does anybody know if this thing inside the moisture trap is supposed to be dried, or must it remain wet? Apparently the parts inside the moisture trap were wet:
So, the thing leaks when I turn the adjustment valve up from minimum (below 10 psi) to 20. If I adjust further, to 30 psi (as if I wanted to airbrush with 30 psi), then the compressor leaks more air than it puts back in.
The trap should be dry, if there's moisture in it that means there's water in the tank. First drain the tank, there should be a drain valve on the bottom. Then mix up a little dish soap and water and then brush that around the connections and if you see bubbles you know where the leak is.
check every hose between compressor and tank (I have 2). Maybe one of them isn't sealed. That was my case. I also didn't feel the air blowing but could hear it. I just randomly detached them to find out wich one is it
I might try the soap trick.
I already drained the tank with the screw at the very bottom of the air tank, not a drop came from it or perhaps I remember it wrong, perhaps it was a little moist at least. I had ofc safely emptied the tank of air beforehand.
Hm, so.. on reflection, I never knew how to use the moisture trap, or, I never thought there was any moisture in it, I never saw moisture in the trap, make me never pressing the release valve in plastic at the bottom of the moisture trap.
I've tried to dry the filter, presumably I have to buy a new one. This filter looks yellow, looking sort of oily, but perhaps it was yellow all along. But, I tried to empty the moisture trap repeatedly, and I saw drops forming on the inside, but perhaps that is just some pressure drop or something. Not sure how to think about this. :|
Still, the compressor leaks air when I turn the adjustment valve. Hm, maybe there is a faulty seal there or something.
I sent Faller an email, hopefully they can make sense of my email explaining my observations.
August 6, 2021
Just doing some trivial stuff while getting motivated to work on super fiddly photo etch for this other WIP project. 🙂
The entire top deck has to be grinded with a power tool, to create a shallow cavity, so that the perforations in the photo etch deck have some space beneath it. I will use a small handheld electrical drill for this, I think it will work nicely, but I haven't done something that major before. At least, there is little chance of things going wrong with that.
The reason I bought this kit is that I could make these perforations. 🙂 I will add a large piece of shaped black cardboard inside, to block the visibilty, mimicking the pressurised hull parts on the inside. I think it will look nice in the end.
Looking at photo #2, there are a nice amount of photo etch parts there. I realized that I had to check if the plastic tower fit the photo etch. It seems the photo etch matches the deck, leaving a tiny gap in between the deck edge, and the tower structure itself. Unsure if this gap has to be made flush or not.
If this is a trivial stuff, what do you call a challenge? Following with amazement 🙂
Compared to the 1:350 CB-2 Guam kit, this 1:144 sub model seems small and trivial. 🙂
The charm of this uboat is imo the ability to drill out all the holes, it really give added detailing and depth, and the photo etch deck, with some space beneath it carved out from the plastic deck, should look stunning in the end I think.
Edit: I've created and added the photo etch product (SKU-090), somehow it wasn't already listed on Scalemates. :|
I vaguely recall having some difficulty finding this kit on sale. I think I got mine 3-4 years ago, and then I found RC subs' photo etch stuff at some point after that. 🙂
This is my 3rd kit of this type, having built one already, the Type VIIc/41. I have a spare VIIc/41 kit as well unbuilt.
The photo etch railings leaves something to be desired, they are flat not rounded, maybe some paint or liquid vallejo putty can help round off the flat PE railings.
And all these activities are piece of cake...😄 Chapeau bas, Treehugger!
Enjoy the build
looking interesting 🙂
August 4, 2021
Update: The hex key is apparently slightly less than 2mm across, that is the size of the hex socket, less than 2mm.
Maybe this list can give me a clue to what might be a proper replacement part:
Maybe goes together with this holder:
August 1, 2021
i've used 2b lead pencil a lot for panel lines. tho the color of the paint and opacity/thinner ratio does come into play later on.
it's a matter of taste afterall but the technique is sound. the way i see it works best on gray camos, like modern us navy jets for ex.
July 20, 2021
I got this vacuum part aftermarket product the mail today. 🙂 It is for the Academy kit. Haven't fitted it yet, but it should fit I would think.
The parts looks nice and smooth. There is one big piece for front, side and rear glass all in one piece, then there is an additional front with some lower shielding, and then there is an additional top door surface. Presumably, some gentle cutting and sanding is required to use the vacuum parts for the opened configuration.
July 9, 2021
Only if you don't live down the glidepath of an airport!
July 8, 2021
Protip: The build manual have 5 pages for the paint guides. These five pages have to be taken/ripped out of the manual, to make sense. When detatched, you get five sheets of a variety of paint schemes. If you leave them inside the manual, it will look really confusing.
July 7, 2021
The big surface, rests on top of the two sets of drawers, no screws. The big plate rests on top of four rubber thingies, on each drawer, and then there is a leg screwed on at the center underneath to prevent the surface from bending.
A version without the 10 drawers is this one below
On second thought, it could be that the newer model, has screwes for the top surface. I bought mine two years ago, then the top plate did not have screws, just resting on top of a total of 8 rubber bits. The Ikea manual online doesn't seem to explain how the top plate is fastened, if at all.
Hehe I counted some 40'ish parts, to not be used in the manual. 🙂 Still, that leaves some 250+ parts I guess.
July 6, 2021
So I guess I'll buy another 2m wide Ikea table. :| I should probably wait until a bit later, as the Ikea shipping is super expensive where I live, for furniture.
July 5, 2021
Seeing as how there is a photo etch set for this kit in particular and not Admiral Lazarev, I managed to change my order to this kit. At least then the photo etch I want, should better match the kit of choice. 🙂
July 3, 2021
July 2, 2021
Russian Cruiser Admiral Lazarev (Trumpeter 04521, 1:350) (older)
Russian Cruiser Pyotr Velikiy (Trumpeter 04522, 1:350) (newest)
I ordered the 'Admiral Lazarev' kit, but the photo etch I am considering is for the 'Pyotr Velikiy' kit, which has "new parts".