Black Pearl - 1:12 Porsche Carrera GT - Work in Progress - FINISHED
There she is, a huge box ordered from HLJ a couple years ago
As always beautifully packaged by Tamiya
some literature
Body parts are sealed individually
Small PE frame
a ton of sprues
but here comes the highlight, a metric ton of little goodies!
There are hundreds of screws, parts for suspension, springs, levers etc etc
everything carefully packed
modeler`s heaven!
first step: unpack and sort
Started with separating parts from the sprues, cleaning and sorting them into building steps
At this stage already started to improve some of the parts according to my reference pictures. This oil cooler radiator e.g. lacks some fins
Engraving with the help of some solid tape does the trick
Already started to pre-assembly the engine
This right here. All the praise for Tamiyas quality is well deserved but this part is just a sore to the eyes and I knew I could not leave it like this
awful, just awful. Even if the part is well hidden on the finished model I just can`t deal with the awfulness of it and it is not deserving of a 1:12 scale model
Started out by cutting out all the pulleys and getting rid of the "belt"
The pulleys were turned in shape by mounting them on a dremel tool and holding against some files and sanding paper
The grooves for the belt are made with some very coarse grit sanding paper
Some holes drilled
The big crankshaft pulley on the left received an additional "backplate"
some detail added
The overall shape and composition of the engine is quite good
Some parts though need special attention. There are some nasty seam lines here and there
That is better
Pulleys received some extra detail like hex nuts and bolts according to the reference pictures
Now I have to figure out how to make the belt(s)
The exhaust manifolds were stripped of their chrome. I used foaming oven cleaner spray, works really good
The cleanup was a pain in the a** but has to be done
Dry fit first, then apply glue
Continuing with cutting, cleaning and sorting parts
I group them together according to the building steps in the manual to not get confused later on
The seam lines on the metal parts need to be taken care of
Some cast residue as well
Macro shot
Tools of choice: sanding sticks, nail polishing files and some jewelers metal files
This is going to be the first serious challenge
The Carrera GT has a carbon monocoque as a chassis and this part is the engine cover. I intent to cover it with carbon fiber decals to depict the original look
That is the idea at least
Next little upgrade, shock absorbers. Right kit part which is supposed to be the oleo piston and painted silver. Left prepared for a more elegant solution
This is the fit from the box, pretty loose. Like throwing a sausage into a hallway if you know what I mean
The piston will be replaced by cable end sleeves.
These come in a variety of diameters
the smaller one will be the piston, the bigger one in the counterpart to provide a snug fit
No paint required and looks much nicer 👍
Some further little improvements like drilling open the brake disc venting ducts
Ejection marks are filled with an often overlooked "putty": superglue
A very underrated tool imho, dries quickly and leaves absolutely no sinkholes or marks
The air intakes for the engines were glued with superglue too to create a seamless transition
Let`s talk about this part here, the airbox and the pipe leading to it where Tamiya was a little bit lazy imo
On the original the pipe is leading under the airbox cowl whereas Tamiya cast these parts as one
Since it is going to be clearly visible I decided to make a little upgrade here as well. First the pipe is cut off
The gap cleaned and shaped properly
At last I have to replace the outer end of the pipe with something similar is size and shape. Had some thick drinking straws laying around. Seems to be a little too small in diameter, not sure if I am going with that
I would also like to have the upper and lower ducts to look seamless so this gap has to go
Looks much nicer and cleaner like that. Parts primed, used Tamiya Fine Surface Primer from the can, very good stuff
Front part of the body
quite the seam lines here too which had to be removed
Spent the bulk of the last few days cleaning and sorting the parts
Parts of the monocoque
All sorted in groups by step number in the instruction
I like having cleaning parts out of the way so I can keep the table clean and focus on the "artistic" part of the process if you will
Ok mates I was really eager to start the carbon decaling part of the build and after watching a few tutorials on how to do it this is the basic principle: You place a piece of tape on the surface of what you want to cover, trace the edges with a pencil....
remove the tape, cut out the shape of the surface...
transfer it onto the decal sheet and cut out the decal
decaling part is pretty standard, a lot of setting solution. The frame was painted with Tamiyas TS-29 semigloss black from the spray can btw.
and you work with a hair dryer to speed up the process and make the decal more flexible and malleable to like in my case make it lay down on the inner edge of the frame
so far so good, rest should be shaped into submission by some decal solvent solution
Again, you divide the part you are covering into more or less flat surfaces, apply tape
trace the edges with a pencil
cut out template, place onto decal sheet
cut out the decal
apply
btw it is reasonable to make all the decal pieces first before starting applying them. You don't want to place sticky tape over an already applied decal
there are some small corners and crevices where you work with leftover pieces. I apply the decal here first, followed by the shapes I cut out to create a cleaner look
Btw that is the look I am looking for, found a decal sheet with fine enough carbon pattern and a bronze color from Scale Production
Some update on the carbon fiber
After a few trials and errors I am slowly getting the hang of it
And I must say this is becoming a very enjoyable process, very relaxing and meditative even!
Piece by piece, place..
dry with a hair dryer
Apply decal solving solution, done
Some areas were more difficult than others, but eventually everything went how I intended
Time for a nice shiny coat of clear!
Applied two nice and thick coats of 2K clear
Unfortunately there is a nasty dust booger which lodged itself on the most inconvenient and visible of places, but it should be possible to sand and polish it out later
Otherwise I am very very happy with the result!
Let's figure out the belt kit
First idea was just to cut Tamiya masking tape into appropriate stripes, paint them black and call it a day. While the cutting part is easy enough, painting it on the pulleys without causing a mess would be pretty challenging.
Then I rummaged around in my "materials" bin and found something better
These are leftovers from a Pocher Lamborghini kit. It was used for the seatbelts, is self adhesive and the color and structure is convincing enough
Much better
Very happy with the result
Again, kit part for comparison
Never throw away leftovers!
ignition wiring
neat and tidy
The air intake manifold and filters received a black basing
following a matte silver coating. Tried to match the original color. Paints used were AK xtreme metallics
The exhaus manifold received some weld lines with Mr. surfacer 500
Exhaust tips needed improvement too. Left from the kit, right opening was widened
To match the original look I will use again a wire end sleeve as an inner tube
Metallic paint marathon, started on the brakes as well
The carbon decal work on the engine cove was quite fun and rewarding, but that was just the warm-up. Time to tackle the real deal, the monocoque itself. First painted with Tamiya TS-29 Semigloss black from a spray can.
For this I ordered a slightly different carbon decal to match the real deal in colour and appearance. The brand is "Scale Motorsport". The procedure itself is the same so I won't elaborate on it further
So after several days of work this is the result
Engine bay
and cockpit compartment
floor not yet finished
The cockpit was a bit trickier due to many concave, convex and curved surfaces
but in the end everyrthing worked out
Creating the template for the rear wheel bay
end result
Detail painting the exhaust. This part of the exaust system is made with some kind of a braided metal mesh. Tried to replicate the look with a mesh mask and silver paint
The pipes are also clad with heat shielding foil/metal sheets. I made mine fro Bare Metal foil
Othewise the exhaust manifold was painted using various metal shades, washes and drybrushing techniques
Muffler. Worked with various metal tones as well as translucent blue and reddish paints to create a heat stained look
It was chrome plated in the kit but it did not convince me and was stripped
Brake disk with some paint and subtle weathering
Assembly finally started!
The anodised red of the shock absorbers was achieved by painting clear red over silver
Front part of the monocoque with the front wheel suspension
I decided not to use the carbon decal here just because of the fact it will be completely hidden on the model, The pretty shock absorbers unfortunately as well..
The monocoque received a coating of 2K clear as well
Really happy with the result, the hard work paid off!
Installing the engine, connecting the hoses etc.
Time for some sweet little detail like these screws with washers for the water reservoir
They are 3D printed and very high quality, you get assortments like these in various sizes from Decalcas
Just a nice little touch, nothing extraordinary but yet very effective
Installing the air filter and intake manifold combo. Here I am working not according to the Tamiya instructions so it is a little fidgety
Some more fidgeting later I managed to "close the lid" on the engine
All the paints, structures, colors and materials are working beautifully together
We are getting somewhere!
Brake disc and calipers in all their glory
Really some nice detail there, up to the tiny "brembo" decal on the small black handbrake caliper
Rear suspension from above, btw the calipers consisted of two halves, I glued and got rid of the seam line first before painting them yellow since it is supposed to be a single part. Also note the cooling fins on the disc
Added some more detail like ventilation valves from the trusty aftermarket nuts and bolts
And the front sans the handbrake caliper
Bolts with washers I also use from "Meng". Have to be carefully sliced from the surface
Alrteady started with the cockpit which is also a variety of materials and colors which is going to present a nice challenge. A part of the dashboard is silver plastic. To make it look really fine and not grainy I primed the part in grey first and applied a glosscoat (Mr. Metal Primer) before spraying fine AK xtreme metal Aluminium paint.
Etched footrest plate. Instead of glueing it in place I went for a more sophisticated approach
Since the screwholes are already there, why not using "real" screws?
pre drilled holes using the plate as a template
voilá
Just a droplet of superglue from behind, no mess
This is the interior I am going for. Silver/Grey/Carbon fiber aesthetic
Notice the carbon fiber gear shifter knob and the patch behind the instruments. Both will present a nice challenge
The instruments need a silver ring at the edge
After a base of Semigloss Black a careful and precise masking job was needed
pretty good
Patch for the instruments background
The concave shape requires the help of a hair dryer and decal solvent solution
The gear shifter knob was even more challenging but eventually this seems to be working out
After drying and a layer of clear
Pedals, small detail and highlights are added using various materials like chrome tape
Much better than using a different shade of metallic paint like proposed by the manual. Adds a little more life and realism which paint just wouldn't provide
The dashboard is slowly taking shape
To emulate the grey leather I used Zero Paints "Charcoal Textured Paint". That was further treated with a black wash and polished with 8000 grit Mr. Laplos polishing cloth to emphasize the surface structure and give it a slight leathery gloss.
Which gives it a pretty convincing slightly used, grainy leather look. Subtle but effective I do think.
The carbon madness continues on the seats. You are familiar with the process by now, so I'll let the pictures talk.
Had to order two more sheets of carbon decal because the expenditure is enormous. Makes it 5 and one costs 12€. I hope this will suffice for the rest, there is more carbon work to come definitely
The seats are especially tricky because there are almost no plane surfaces, everything is curved and warped
All the shapes cut out and ready for application
Looking good
Decided to improve the steering column levers. The ones from the kit were too bulky and way out of shape
Bent and shaped them from stretched sprue material
The symbols were "faked" on with a white colored pencil as far as it was possible
A quick tipp on how I work with cyanacrylate glue. I collect stuff which has little compartments like this packaging material
This is placed in an airtight container and whenever I need CA glue for the day I place a couple of droplets in one of the cavities
This is applied using a self made tool, a sewing needle where the hole part was sanded off halfway to create a notch which is holding a tiny droplet of glue by capillary action. The needle is held by a scalpel handle
The tool is cleaned between applications with a flame and a quick dip in water to cool the needle and get rid of the soot
The function of the container is as you probably guessed to prevrent the glue from drying, it stays fresh the whole day. The other benefit is it keeps the vapors inside which otherwise create nasty white stains everywhere on your workplace
Front end attached
Preparing the first body parts for painting, take note of the die-cast luggage compartment
Another load of semigloss black parts inbetween
The carbon insanity continues
At this point I have described the process excessively so I won't bore you further with the details. Front diffusor.
Front wheel wells
Finished seat shell
First parts primed. I used automotive 2K black primer. The process is described in detail in my Porsche 944 WIP if anyone is interested.
After drying (a couple hrs at room temperature) the primer is sanded using Tamiya sponges 1500-3000 grit. Don't overdo it at the edges. You want the plastic to be protected from the aggressive paints.
Finished gear stick. Turned out pretty neat with the carbon knob.
Let`s finish the seats, wanted to add some detail here too, namely these bolts
Drilled some holes first
Used again the 3D printed bolts from Decalcas
Really tiny, but the detail is still great
Not entirely necessary, but it's THERE 😄
Painting time! I won't paint all parts at once just to minimize the headache. So, this is the first round.
Basecoat, I use normal automotive lacquer paint I purchased from eBay. Two wet coats and let it dry for 10-15 mins while I am preparing the clearcoat.
Clear applied, two wet coats with 10 minutes drying time inbetween. The hood collected some dust...
While the front body turned out quite clean
Let's make ourselves some floor mats. Cut out basic shape from 0,25mm styrene
We need a trim around the edges, I am going to use a wire with grey insulation
Superglued in place
Edges cleaned up
After spraying Tamiya X-18 semigloss black I immediately removed the paint from the trim with cotton swabs and some isopropyl alcohol
Now to the fuzzy part, apply water diluted PVA glue inside the trim
The "fuzzy part" is viscose flocking, in my case from Scale Production. To go with the carbon theme in is Anthracite colored
I use a tea sieve for an equal and homogenous distribution
Apply in a thick coat, do it in a box or some container so you do not make a mess and can collect the remnant flocking for reusage.
Let the glue dry overnight, shake the loose flocks off and carefully blow off with compressed air, preferably out the window
Ta-da!
Apply the branding decals (which are provided in the kit for the footwell area where the carpets should be but instead there is just an embossing which should resemble the carpets I suppose)
At last some "footprints" and used looks were made by simply spraying matt varnish in an irregular pattern (I just wanted to seal the decals but noticed it made the flocking look lighter and "dusty"
I always apply a second coat of clear after the first one is dried. Reason is the first coat tends to be more uneven and it reveals the surface structure with its small irregularities. You can sand and polish the first coat of clear right away and it will look good but I learned that weeks or even months after the surface can "sag" while the clear is drying thoroughly through and the surface structure comes through. After the application of the second coat the surface is very smooth and thus easy to sand and polish.
I use 2000 grit wet sandpaper and an eraser as a sanding block
The eraser helps to make the surface really even especially the dust inclusions. It also helps to reveal problematic spots where you have to be extra careful as you will see in the next picture.
Be careful with the eraser and stick only to the flat surfaces so this does not happen, the edges of the hood are slightly bent upwards on the sides. I did not notice it right away and was to eager with the eraser there and sanded down to the plastic. Annoying, but no big deal after all, I will spray some black there before applying the second coat of clear.
Decided to improve the shock absorbers for the engine and baggage compartment lids. Top and bottom are kit parts, too bulky and frankly, ugly. Inside ones are scratch made.
The loops are made from tiny watch hands, I purchased an assortment of them from eBay a while ago exactly for this purpose
The tubes are made from hypodermic needles
Final result. The watch hands can be inserted inside the tubes leaving only the loop outside
The die-cast front compartment has been primed and painted in body color. Additionally we need some masking work in several steps since this area consists of different materials which we need to depict.
First the parts are masked off which remain in body color.
Second layer is semigloss black.
Masking off for the third layer, this one is going to be a grey mat.
Finally there is the "fuzzy" base layer which is applied at last using viscose flocking.
Second coat of clear is applied
This one is already much smoother which faciliates the polishing later
Tail light reflectors are made with Bare Metal chrome foil
The tail light clear parts need some modification too. The holding pins are removed and while I am at it I am going to sand and polish them since they are a little uneven
The "snap in place" pins allow to install the clear parts without glue but they are visible from the outside which bothers me
Next batch of body parts in black
What I like about this kit is that the body parts are segmented in a very convenient and logical way which facilitates the painting process a lot
The paint job on the inner side panels turned out to be very clean, not a speck of dust! Very happy about that, I won`t even apply a second coat of clear or polish them which would be a super headache because of the complicated shape
...what can't be said about the doors
The rubber door seals were supposed to be painted semigloss black but since they are already black I figured why just not make the already black surface semigloss?
So I masked over the glossy part and went over the seal with a fine sanding sponge, tada. Less fuss, less work, looking good 👍 Sadly works only for black vehicles...
This part of the door lock, whatever it is called, looks pretty good too. All from the kit.
There are a few sink marks on the body which require love and attention
I work only with 2K polyester putty
I widened the slit on the seat belt buckles with a fine diamond wire
Not super clean but good enough for our purpose
It was done to accomodate the seat belt fabric..
..a material I found a couple of years ago which is almost perfect for seat belts in 1:12
very nice structure
All this was done because I wasn't too happy with Tamiyas suggestion
The part which is fixed on the seat
Once again we use the 3D printed bolts to fix it in place
Since we need a different bolt head, I flattened the original one..
...and used the hex bolt heads instead
Btw the hex bolts come with and without washers, left I used the version with washer, right the flat surface of the original bolt plays the role of the washer
The top end of the buckles is supposed to be black plastic, in order to achieve the necessary thickness I dipped the ends a couple of times in black Mr. Surfacer.
Seats and belts installed
The belt material flows beautifully and organically
Really happy with the progress and pace so far!
A really nice variety of colors, structures and materials
Front end, before it is hidden by the luggage compartment
The inside of the doors is going to be a nice challenge too, we have leather, plastic, silvers, blacks, and of course...carbon fiber
Part of the interior carbon fiber is in a Golden/Bronze color so I purchased this (hopefully last) decal sheet
Here we go again
You know the drill...
There are access panels on the sides of the engine bays with tools, medipack etc which are, yes, carbon fiber and they have these little handles to open them
In the kit the handles are cast-on which means they would look messy and "blurry" when I am done applying the carbon fiber decal and clear coat over it. (Here I already removed them)
So I decided to make them from scratch using some PE parts from a seatbelt an hood pin set which I bent in shape...
Glued them on 0,2mm styrene
Added a little detail
For holding super fine PE parts I am using a gemstone picking pencil
Something like that. It will provide a much more crisp, sharp and detailed look in comparison to just painting over a blurred mess
Just a quick tip, to prevent these little suckers from tipping over which probably 99% of modelers have already experienced I constructed this sophisticated device to hold them firm, a coffee creamer cup glued to a styrene plate, magic!
Time to shine! This is what we got after the second application of clear. Quite the sandstorm
Nothing we can't solve with some good quality 2000 grit wet sanding paper and an eraser as a sanding block
This time I kept well off the edges
Now a good scrubbing with Mirka Abralon 3000 (and/or 4000) sponges, also wet
So we have a nice smooth surface without scratches for polishing
Now we work in sections, in this example I divided the hood in quarters. We work with a rotary tool and a cotton buffer and we use Tamiya red compound and a polishing wax for paint (The wax is some generic hard wax for car paint which i apply on the rotating buffer. It is optional but I found it works better in combination with Tamiyas polishing compound than the compounds alone.)
We repeat the same steps with Tamyias blue compound (use a new buffer!) Work down the edges. Takes a little practice and patience, but the result speaks for itself. Use a good quality superfine microfiber cloth to wipe the surface
This is not the final polishing step though, this will occur at the very end when the model is finished and all body parts are attached. There will be inevitable scratches during the completion process. To minimize these and to protect the surface I wrap the surface in Parafilm foil.
Surface is protected, now we can work on the inside of the hood without fear messing up the nice finish
The Front part of the body receiving the same sanding and polishing treatment
Silky and smooth after going over with the Mirka soft sponges
And after polishing
There was a little mishap, I slipped with my polishing tool at one particular corner and hit the surface with a part of the shaft. Looks worse than it actually is, a tiny droplet of black where the paint is missing and undiluted 2K clear coat where it was chipped away. All applied with a fine brush. Let it dry a couple of days, then it can be carefully sanded and polished
Otherwise it turned out pretty good and no other "accidents" occured but it was a challenge due to the complexity of the part with all the corners and edges where the buffer could jam
Got hold of this structured carbon fiber decal
The engine and front hood have areas on the inside where you see some raw carbon fiber structure
Tried to replicate it just to see how it would look.
Inner structure attached
Side skirts attached. The fit is, who would have thought, terriffic.
Made another set of shocks, this time for the engine lid.
Really happy with these ones. Used parts from the kit, syringe needles and loops from watchhands
Sink marks on the spolier required soime attention
The paint chip is repaired, let's attach odds and ends to the front body! Headlights looking good.
To minimise the possibility of messing up the clear parts I use UV glue to attach them. I purchased the glue from a DIY store, but you can get it from eBay too. To cure it I use a UV flashlight which I bought from Amazon
Once the glue is applied you can check position, alignment etc. If anything is amiss, you can wipe off the glue and try again. It does not spoil the clear plastic parts in any way.
If it looks how it supposed to you use the UV light to cure the glue, a couple of seconds and it is dry.
No mess, no cyanacrylate fumes. Attached in seconds👍
One of the many radiators, looking good with the PE part and Carbon fiber decals
Hinges and gas struts attached. For the hinges I used CA glue with some filler powder sprinkled on top which cures it instantly and gives it more stability.
The fit is truly remarkable, Tamiya👍
Opens and closes smoothly without getting stuck
The gast struts don't disappoint either
I can smell the finish line!
The struts for the retractable spoiler have also been "carbonised"
And given a pair of appropriate screws each
Tamiya being Tamiya they beautifully overengineered the spoiler retracting mechanism
The entire monstrosity
The idea is that by pushing the rear number plate the spoiler is retracting smoothly. So unnecessary, so glorious, truly a thing of beauty!
Speaking of the spoiler, it was really a pain in the rear to hold it for the paint job. I had to redo the priming part because it fell into the dirt the first time
So on second attempt I used a three point method using decommissioned scalpels to hopefully hold it firm this time
It may come as a surprise, but here is some more carbon fiber!
Windshield and front body attached
Touching only with a cotton glove! Black paint is beautiful but man is it a dust and fingerprint magnet!
Front compartment makes a good impression, everything fits like a glove.
Last batch for the spray booth, the filters are screaming to be replaced!
more CF
Inside of the roof panels
Roll over bar
Inside of the doors like I already mentioned is a good amount of work. First steps, body paint, CF decal and clear coat
followed by the semigloss black side airbag cover
Silver panels
And finally the interiour grey leather patch on top
All combined and details added
The door speaker mesh was "simulated" by spraying Gun Metal on semigloss black trough a paint sieve
All in all it was quite a lot of work, especially masking all the curved surfaces
The outer shelling wasn't neglected either and received the desired mirror finish
Doors attached
The fit is exceptional and due to an arrangement of magnets in the doors and the inner panels the doors can be "locked"
The single keyhole on driver's side was modified as well. I used a tiny metal screw to mimic it.
The clear is most definitely cured by now, time to finish this one for good!
Same steps as before, not going into detail. Here the surface after sanding with the 4000 grit soft sponge. Spoiler fits like a glove 👍
"Adding" shine
The engine lid was tricky to sand and polish due to the small and curved surfaces
Installing accessory, trims, grills etc. Reflectors for rear lights were made from bare metal foil
Fuel filler cap
Also a nice snug fit
Installing the retractable spoiler mechanism, here the support poking through in the recessed position
Rear mask with the holes for the exhaust pipes and the lights installed. The spoiler can be extended by pushing the number plate!
Now we are really close...
Inside of the engine lid was clad with the structured carbon fiber decal to replicate the original look
The application on round and curved parts looks patchy, like on the real thing
Gas struts were attached with the already proven method
Functionality test, had to shorten the pistons a little bit, now it fits snuggly
pretty!
The engine meshes are held in place by bolts/rivets of some sort. I replicated them using the usual suspects (Great movie BTW!)
Inside of the removable roof panel. The overhead lining seems to be a similar material as the one in the front compartment. The fuzzy look was achieved by a layer of Zero Paints textured charcoal follower by a black wash and a generous drybrushing session with medium grey. For drybrushing I only use enamels (Humbrol or Revell) they work the best for me
On the model the diffusor is part of the metal base plate and painted black, on the real thing it is....carbon fiber
At first I wanted to leave it like that but it is too prominent so I could not resist 😄
So one last time you are invited to carbon fiber hell
Now I can sleep in peace...
Granted, I cut myself some slack and did not cover the entire chassis, only the visible parts from above because A: I would have to order more CF decal and B: it would drive me nuts.
The engine mesh covers from the kit are a thing of beauty
At the very beginning I mentioned that I had to rework the air ducts for the engine air intake
First attempt was with a plastic tube I had but it was too wide in diameter and just did not look the way I wanted it
I needed two tubes in the correct diameter so I searched through my workshop and found an assortment of artist`s brushes. The metal sleeves which are connecting the bristles to the handle caught my eye
Then some sawing, hammering and grinding later this was the result
Slap some semigloss black on it
Added some hose clamps
much better
Wheel nuts. Red for left side, blue for right. The anodised colors were achieved by spraying clear red/blue over silver.
Attached tail light covers. Used Microscale Liquitape glue to prevent any kind of mess or superglue fogging
Tires were made "used" with some sanding paper
Final polishing before completion
The paint suffered a lot during final assembly
Nothing what another round with a fresh buffer and Tamiyas Finishing compound couldn`t solve
Aligning door panels
It`s finally time...
Tamiya even included a little wheel wrench!
Reminds me...I still have my summer rubber on...
One sad thing, apparently Michelin did not want to cooperate while projecting this kit so the sidewalls of the tires are unfortunately completely blank, no branding, no inscriptions, nothing 🙁
But let`s not focus on the little shortcomings, the wheels look sharp!
She`s finally on her own feet..
It is time for the icing on the cake
Little gems like these metal transfer stickers are the little things what I love about Tamiya. In my opinion by far the best car model kit manufacturer out there
Additionally I treated the surface with Tamiyas wax. Now the shine is so stupid, the camera even struggles with the contrast between the deep black, the reflections and the chrome parts
"Glänzt wie Speck!" like we say in german. Shines like...bacon? I guess...
One last part is missing...To give the badge some depth I applied the decal to a piece of thick black Dymo tape
BTW I used aftermarket badges from "El torito". I find them better in color and appearance than the ones from the kit
Done...
Comments
105 14 June 2023, 18:49
JvI wasent expecting you to improve the kit much I had a look in the box
And though the kit was very nice
I can now see you started your improvements
I think we will be in for a treat
I am sitting on the edge of my chair now
16 June 2023, 04:00
Alexander GrivonevDon't get me wrong, it IS a beautiful kit and Tamiya does it justice. I just like to do some little "upgrades" here and there just to challenge myself and have some fun
16 June 2023, 11:45
JvI must say for the price of the kit I do agree whed you
If I compare to the porcshe valiant I got not much difference in the details
Yet 3 times the price
I dident take the parts out of the bags and have a good look at all
I do like the changes you are making and sure very interested
I also think a kit like that deserves some attention
Thanks for sharing your info on what extras you are using and the detailed
Pics and info on this build much appreciated
16 June 2023, 11:54
JvI guess the valiant kit is an older kit reboxed and the carrera is a new tool kit
16 June 2023, 12:01
bughunterNot my cup of tea, but if such a master modeler is doing a big scale Tamiya I have to watch 👍
And yes, I fully understand the need of some scratch work even it is a Tamiya kit. Made the same experience with my first Tamiya build recently.
There will be another session of how to paint a real _glossy_ Black car!
16 June 2023, 12:03
Alexander GrivonevAh the 934, also on my to do list. But I want to do a street version.
16 June 2023, 12:03
Alexander GrivonevThanks bughunter and welcome on board!
@Jv what I mean by that I want to build one without the sponsoring decals. Just plain white paint, I think it looks gorgeous
18 June 2023, 12:57
JvI can only look forward to see what you do
As a beginner in the modelling I do have limitations on what I think I can do
Seeing builds like yours are very informative
Hens I buy kits I won't touch fo some time other then look in the boxes
Yout builds have always been fantastic an I am sure not just an inspiration to me
As of now I have seen plenty of excellent builds here
I just lack the vision to see how to change a build as much as you
Its always an inspiration to see your builds
I think many not just me learn from it
Thanks for your detailed information and pictures in past builds
I will always learn and enjoy your builds
Thanks for sharing
18 June 2023, 13:44
bughunterAre you having a midlife crisis?
Because that was on the radio this week: Men in midlife crisis buy a Porsche or run marathons 😉
And this model is the much more cost-effective solution! 👍
18 June 2023, 16:09
Alexander GrivonevThanks again Jv, I am really enjoying sharing my work and even more if someone can take inspiration from it-
bughunter, I am approaching my 40ies with full steam ahead so you might be actually onto something. Even the idea of a marathon crossed my mind lately 😄
welcome Stéphane!
19 June 2023, 20:42
Alexander GrivonevDon't worry mate, nothing really happened yet 😄 all the fun stuff is yet to come
23 June 2023, 20:09
Villiers de VosA real neat working space compared to my controlled disaster area 🙂
24 June 2023, 08:58
Alexander GrivonevVilliers, it is the same when guest coming over and you hastily clean up that is what I do before making photos 😄 Believe me, sometimes (mostly) the table looks like a nuclear explosion went off
Jv, check out the project page I've listed some stuff. Not sure if I am going to use it all though
Welcome Michael!
25 June 2023, 08:53
JvYes I see so all the small bags are after market I guess
I thought the kit had some
I will have to get the kit out and have a good look at it I never took parts out of bags
Yet because I have no plans to build it for a while
I have got some cheaper kits to practice on
Sofaere I am impressed by the changes you have made
Less impressed but tamiya considering the price of the kit
25 June 2023, 09:44
Roger BuzbeeWhat are the things that you used to upgrade the shock absorbers? Your build is amazing btw.
26 June 2023, 01:48
Alexander GrivonevThanks Roger, they are called "cable and sleeves". You can find them in electronic/electric supply stores or online. They are basically metal tubes that come in different diameters and can be used for a variety of purposes where a hollow tube/pipe etc is needed, very versatile and useful. Exhausts, shock absorbers, oleos ect. I have an assorted box of them and they are a staple in my scratch building "arsenal" by now. The material is tin plated copper, easy to work with.
26 June 2023, 15:03
bughunterI really like the trick with painting through the metal mesh 👍 The rest of your work is great too.
28 July 2023, 18:52
Davide VitaliJust WOW. Love to see all the steps and the solutions you adopted. That belt and pulleys? Lovely.
31 July 2023, 09:54
AlexanderBeautiful work - a lot to point out, but I particularly like the clean application of the carbon fiber decals! 👍
Looking forward to the rest of the build.
5 August 2023, 11:15
JvPopped in again to have a look
It happens almost every day lol
Your improvement on this kit is amazing
Thanks for shearing all the info
5 August 2023, 15:22
JvJust popping in agen this build is impressive in 2 ways
The details and the speed you are getting it done in
To many favourit details to mention just one
11 August 2023, 12:42
Alexander GrivonevJv, you are welcome to "pop in" any time you like! I am too am content with the progression of this build. I took a vow to dedicate more time to modeling and following through with it because the last couple of years the output was pretty thin so I am making good progress. To all the other guys: thanks a lot!
11 August 2023, 16:15
JvOntill you started this build I was very happy with my kit
That's said
I never took any part out of the bags
For a kit at this cost I think its mind blowing how much you have improved it
Being new to modelling I am starting to realise all kits Need some improvements
And there is no limit you can go to
Your build is fantastic and thanks for sharing all your info
11 August 2023, 16:29
Alexander GrivonevI am so sorry if I spoiled it for you 😄. Yes, every kit CAN be improved beyond stupid. Does not mean it should. Once in a while I do what I call a "recreational build" where I just enjoy the process, follow the instructions and don't stress much about the improvements. Just glue, paint and pure joy and I feel like a kid again... I have a whole album dedicated to it, check it out! Please don't be discouraged, it is a great kit and you can man one hell of a model out of the box👍
11 August 2023, 16:43
JvNot spoiled appropriate your build and I think this kit deserves special attention
11 August 2023, 18:01
Martin OostromThe last recreational build you did was the Countach? We need to talk definitions sometime 😂
11 August 2023, 19:08
Alexander GrivonevI'm off to vacation gents and ladies, no update for a week, seeya!
13 August 2023, 07:51
JvEnjoy your holiday
Thanks for your like
I will sure look up your other builds
13 August 2023, 07:54
Alexander GrivonevNot yet! 😉 There will be a second coat of clear and a polishing then we'll see 👍
18 August 2023, 18:45
Michael KohlI am again and again impressed by your meticulous work. Keep it going.
1 September 2023, 12:06
Alexander GrivonevNever too late, Kyle. Welcome!
Thanks Michael, I must say this is a very enjoyable and pleasing project despite of maybe because of all the extra work 👍
6 September 2023, 15:55
AlexanderI can relate to the joy of extra work Alexander, especially if it's about scratch building parts - looking at your results, it must have been a joy! 🙂
6 September 2023, 18:26
Michael KohlYou have all the reasons to be happy with the progress. I really like how you achieve to make all the different materials look very convincing, being it leather, or carbon, or paint, or - you name it.
7 September 2023, 06:42
Martin OostromAnother master class tutorial by Mr Shiny. You never cease to amaze me.
11 September 2023, 18:23
bughunterBe careful with those gas-filled telescopic struts while working on them - can be dangerous!
Your work is sooo impressively realistic 👍
18 September 2023, 15:24
Martin OostromThe doors are master pieces. Fitting in right with the rest of the build.
10 October 2023, 20:20
Alexander GrivonevThx guys! We are definitely approaching the finish line, the clear on the last batch of body parts needs some more drying time before I can polish them, at least a week. Until then!
12 October 2023, 08:15
bughunterThe mirror effect in pic 350 could also be a painted skull 😉
Impressive modeling skills 👍
6 November 2023, 08:12
Alexander GrivonevMates, I finished the model. Going to dump the last pictures in the following days
21 November 2023, 00:59
Alexander GrivonevMates, the project is finished. I really hope you enjoyed it as much as I did and I did not deter you from building this kit 😛 As with every other kit there is potential for improvement, but you will achieve a great result out of the box.
Proper pictures of the finished model following, I hope I won`t drag it out like I always do. Chances are it might even happen this year 😄 Take care!
cheers, Alex
23 November 2023, 15:20
Davide VitaliSo, we're at the end of this wonderful trip. Thank you very very much for sharing all this with us!
23 November 2023, 19:01
Mr JamesAs mentioned above, the finish is beautifully done. Black shows up every flaw and imperfection, your paintwork is flawless.
23 November 2023, 23:17
JvCongratulations on your finish
It sure has been a fantastic build to watch
Amazing work
27 November 2023, 09:59
Martin OostromAnother Mr Shiny tutorial. It never ceases to amaze me how you can achieve this with basically the same tools I have. Talent is underrated Alexander, but I applaud you!
29 November 2023, 19:05
Michael KohlWanted to say something smart, but the others already put everything into nice words. So I just nod my head in respect and agreement and wait anxiously for the weathering stage. 😉
30 November 2023, 12:07
Alexander GrivonevThx mates👍
@Neuling: Oh it is far from flawless believe me! I also have a keen talent in hiding them 😄
@Martin: I worked in a car body repair and painting shop in my younger years, that might have helped! I carried over the know how and adapted it to the smaller scale and it seems to work out
@Michael: Weathering, right 😄...I swear I have seen this comment already somewhere from you 🙂
1 December 2023, 11:40
Brandon HIt's rare that a build log warrants 400+ photos, but this... this is world class!
1 December 2023, 17:34
Alexander GrivonevThx Rui and Brandon, I made a total of almost 800 photos during the build, tried to limit myself to the most interesting stuff from what I posted here... well ended up at 400+ I sincerely hope it wasn't too repetitive, especially the carbon fiber stuff 😄
1 December 2023, 20:26
JvIt sure was much appreciated Alexander
I think we all here like to see how you achieved such a fantastic model
Sure many fantastic idea's how to do things
We may not all use them all
But I am sure some of your solution will be used in other people builds
Thanks for sharing
3 December 2023, 16:54
Album info
Mates, I would like to invite you all to my next work in progress. Topic will be the Porsche Carrera GT from Tamiya in 1:12. My last build in this scale is from 2018 which was equally challenging and fun and I really enjoyed to share the work in progress. It is time for another one...enjoy!
As always I will try new techniques and find solutions for emerging problems. A new one for me will be Carbon decals which I am looking forward to.
Kit: Tamiya
Aftermarket: Carbon Decals, various screws,nuts and bolts
