Focke Achgelis FA-223, WIP

Special Hobby released several versions of this helicopter. The version with the Czechoslovak machine is unfortunately no longer available. Fortunately, the individual kits differ in the coloring offered, but contain the same parts. Due to the simple colouring of the Czechoslovak machines, the lack of the correct decal sheet is not a problem.

The kit is made in a short run, the individual parts do not have connecting pins, so joining the parts requires more attention when working. The parts are nicely molded and have no dents or dings. There are a few ejector marks on the inside of the fuselage that will go with a scalpel to remove. The engraving is negative and deep enough. There is a small loss on the underside of the hull. The parts fit together well, only a small amount of putty will be used.
The transparent parts are thin and sufficiently transparent.
In addition to the plastic parts, the kit contains eight parts cast in polyurethane. They are cast without bubbles and the details are crisp and clean - two deck plates that can be used alone or in combination with the photo-etched parts. There are also parts for the rotors and their accessories, a square version of the rudder and a sheet metal cover for the cockpit windshield. (use according to the helicopter version selected)
The kit also includes 2 planchets with photo-etched parts. The first is colored and includes complete tracks and dashboard. The second is unpainted and includes pedals, hub tray, landing gear counter pieces, small parts for individual rotors and under cockpit antennas.

I started building the model by assembling the inner tube structure in the front part of the fuselage. The manufacturer did a very good job. The individual parts are fine and without burrs, even the parting plane of the mouldings is almost invisible. It is hard to believe that this is a short run. The only difficulty is the separation of the parts from the skeleton. The parts are really fragile and there is a risk of breaking them when using the cut-out pliers. To avoid this, I used a razor saw to separate the parts from the frame.

I was concerned about the build, the large number of subtle and fragile parts does not add to the confidence. However, during the assembly of the tubular "cage" it turned out that it was not so bad. The parts fit together precisely and, thanks to the use of conventional plastic glue, there is plenty of time to seat them precisely. You just need to follow the instructions carefully, as each part has its exact place where it comes to stick. There are still a couple of tubes missing, but those will come later.

On the bulkhead separating the cabin from the engine section of the fuselage I glued some kind of cover according to the instructions (I don't know exactly its function).

On the bulkhead separating the cabin from the engine section of the fuselage I glued some kind of cover according to the instructions (I don't know exactly its function).

It would be a real shame to hide the detailed internal cabin construction in the glued fuselage, so I decided to open the cabin door. With the door open, at least part of the structure will be visible.

I cut off the rounded rudder on both halves of the rear fuselage and glued them together. After the glue dried, I sealed the joint with gelcoat CA glue.

I cut off the rounded rudder on both halves of the rear fuselage and glued them together. After the glue dried, I sealed the joint with gelcoat CA glue.

I replaced the cut rudder with a resin part with the correct shape for the version used in Czechoslovakia.

I made the floor for the transport cabin from 0.25 mm thin plastic sheet.

I added a couple of "pipes" to the ceiling and left side of the cockpit and slowly started to outfit the cockpit. I added control pedals, pilot seat and folding seat to the nose. I added seat belts to both seats. The belts and pedals are photo-etched parts from the planchette that comes as part of the kit.

I made the control levers on the center console and on the panel next to the pilot seat out of thin copper wires. I made the balls on the ends of the levers by melting the end of the copper wire in the flame of a gas torch.

The fuselage interior and bulkhead got their first coat of paint.

After a detailed examination of the options, I have managed (at least I hope) to solve the problem of load placement.
One usable space is offered by the fuel tank on the fuselage bulkhead. The empty fuel tank compartment can hold 16 grams of lead.

I came up with a little ruse to place additional ballast. I made a "box" out of plastic sheets. Visually it looks like two smaller boxes on top of each other, but it's one piece. I could fit another 32 grams of lead inside this box.

The lead crate will be placed as cargo in the helicopter's transport cabin. For now, it's only in the cabin for inspection.

The lead crate will be placed as cargo in the helicopter's transport cabin. For now, it's only in the cabin for inspection.

To make sure everything was in order, I assembled (without gluing) the left front half of the fuselage with the fuselage bulkhead and the internal cabin structure.

I have added the last missing "pipes" in the front part of the cockpit.

From the back of the instrument panels, I drilled holes in the individual instruments for wiring and then glued the instrument panels to the tubular structure.

For the right dash I made a new bracket "tube" out of wire, the plastic original from the kit is nice, but due to its subtlety would most likely not survive the shaping of the wire wiring.

For the small instruments under the cockpit ceiling, I drew the front panels. I printed the panels on photo paper and glued it to a thin plastic plate. After trimming, I painted the "boxes" and glued them in place.

I then added wiring to the individual instruments on the dashboards.

I stuck the load boxes in the cargo hold and strapped them to the floor. I made the straps out of masking tape and the buckles out of thin wire.

Finally, I glued the rear bulkhead with the tank to the tubular structure. Now the assembly is ready to be glued into the fuselage.

Before gluing the finished structure into the hull, the windows had to be glazed.

It remains to assemble the tubular structure between the front and rear part of the fuselage and then there is nothing to prevent the gluing of both halves of the front part of the fuselage.

The parts of the structure connecting the front and rear part of the fuselage are model thin and according to the instructions they are to be glued to the rear part in the marked pits. However, I am concerned that the soft plastic parts and glued joints will not be very strong and it will take little to break off the rear fuselage.

Raději jsem celou konstrukci vyrobil novou z tenkého drátu. Vzhledem k tomu, že spájené spoje nebudou po sestavení trupu vidět, je zbytečné je obbrušovat a začišťovat. Pro porovnání jsou vlevo položeny původní díly spojovací konstrukce ze stavebnice.

I drilled holes in the rear of the fuselage and gradually inserted all 12 "tubes" of the structure.

The interior is finished, the rear fuselage has the structure added to connect it to the front fuselage (although the connecting structure looks terrible so far), so it's time to put the fuselage together. But first to check the dry assembly.

You can see at the front fuselage joint that the inner bulkhead (the one with the fuel tank) needs some sanding.

You can't really see much of the structure connecting the front and rear of the fuselage.

And that is the maximum of what can be seen from the connecting structure. Photographed from the optimum angle and with auxiliary lighting.

The open door on the right side of the hull offers a decent view into the cargo cabin.

The cockpit is also clearly visible.

After a little tweaking of the fuselage bulkhead, I glued the right half of the assembled interior and rear fuselage structure into the pre-drilled holes. Then I glued the front halves of the fuselage. After the glue dried, I glued the air catcher to the right side of the fuselage.

I sealed the top and bottom front joint with gel CA glue.

On the left side of the rear fuselage I added two panels for rudder control and maintenance according to the drawing. I then set the fuselage aside and let it dry thoroughly.

I prepared the parts for the rotors and main landing gear. So far I have managed to glue the resin parts to the ends of the plastic arms. I reinforced the joints with thin metal wire pins.

I added lugs for the rigging on the hull and drilled holes for attaching the tubular structure.

I also added lugs for stretching the rigging to the tubular structure.

I drilled holes in the upper tubes of the structure and glued metal pins into them for a stronger connection between the structure and the fuselage.

I also glued metal pins into the horizontal tail surface.

This is what the engine exhaust looks like in the kit.

I modified the engine exhaust using a micro grinder to a usable condition.

Assembling the structure supporting the rotors and landing gear requires a certain amount of detective work. With kit parts it can be done, the instructions are accurate enough in this regard. It's worse with the parts that the kit owner has to make himself. In the instructions they are marked with blue lines and a hand icon in a green square. So far, so good. But the manufacturer somehow forgot to add what these parts are supposed to be made of. The thing is, the parts I marked with the red rectangle are tubular struts and the parts marked with orange rectangles are steel cables. If I hadn't looked at the photos before building, I would have assumed, based on my previous experience building biplanes and airplanes with struts, that all those blue lines in the instructions represent rigging.

This is how the structures turn out when assembled from kit parts - before adding the parts of their own production.

In order to add more tubes as per the instructions, I pulled the "wires" out of the trees and used them to complete the build as per the photos and instructions.

For comparison, the front "tubes" are already added, the rear is almost at its default state.

The missing pipes have already been completed for both sets. The rigging and gimbal for the propeller drive will be fabricated when the structure is glued to the fuselage. But there is still plenty of time for that.

I glued the top and bottom of the transparent cockpit cover and after masking the entrance door I glued the transparent part to the fuselage.

Now I have to mask off the glued cabin and then I can spray the hull with surfacer.

As far as the design of the model is concerned, there is nothing to brag about yet. I put some more putty and sanded the fuselage. Now the fuselage is ready to be sprayed with surfacer. The only visible progress is the addition of a grille for the cooling air intake to the engine.

For the final balance of the model I have to make a new light horizontal tailplane. To make it, I will use the horizontal tail surface from the kit as a hoof to create a new horizontal tail surface. First I highlighted the ribs on the kit elevator by gluing in plastic thread pulled from the trees.

I cut out reasonably sized pieces from office paper and painted them with diluted dispersion glue. I waited a while so that the papers could soak up the water properly and be easily shaped. I glued the sufficiently soaked papers in three layers to each side of the plastic horizontal surface. I pressed each layer onto the surface and smoothed it thoroughly so that it followed the surface well. After gluing and smoothing the third layer, I let my creation dry. When the glued paper was dry, I "varnished" it with two coats of thin CA glue to improve the strength of the paper.

After the CA glue dried, I trimmed off the excess material and sanded the trailing edge of the horizontal tail surface into shape. Finally, I used a scalpel to cut the horizontal tail surface at the end curves and trailing edge and removed the plastic part through the resulting hole. It was easy, the dispersion glue stuck the different layers of paper together, but it didn't stick to the plastic.

If you want to avoid making new parts, I have drawn a simple diagram of where weights can be placed in the cockpit. Maybe someone will find it useful 🙂

I glued a lighter version of the horizontal tailplane to the fuselage. After the fuselage was puttyed and sanded, I sprayed the fuselage with primer.

I glued a lighter version of the horizontal tailplane to the fuselage. After the fuselage was puttyed and sanded, I sprayed the fuselage with primer.

I started to assemble the rotors of the helicopter. I reinforced the connection between the plastic rotor blades and the resin rotor head with metal pins.

First I sprayed the hull with silver paint. After it dried, I sprayed the front part of the fuselage with the cabin with red paint. After the red paint dried I removed the masking tape from the front transparent part.

Open doors allow you to look into the transport and cockpit.

Open doors allow you to look into the transport and cockpit.

The cabin glazing made of thin and transparent plastic allows a view into the cockpit. Working with instrument cables and other small accessories was not unnecessary.

Painting the frames of more complex cabin covers (e.g. Focke Achgelis) by masking the transparent part of the cabin is quite laborious. Especially if you have to make the mask first.
I was wondering how I could simplify painting the frames of the transparent part of the cab. And I came up with a simple solution that I have been using successfully for some time now. On a piece of blank decal paper, I first spray the paint that is used in the interior of the cab. When the paint is dry enough, I spray a second coat of paint, this time in the color that the machine was painted on the outside (for Achgelis, it's red). I cut thin strips from the decal paper thus prepared. The width of the strips corresponds to the width of the cockpit overlay frames.

According to the length of the cockpit cover frame, I gradually measure the length of the individual strips and glue them to the cockpit cover frame.

This is how I add more and more strips ....

Cabin frames are completely "painted" with decal tapes. You can also see in the photos that the two layers of paint (first layer - interior color, second layer - exterior color) make the interior cabin frames greenish gray.

I also painted the "scaffolding" for the rotors and main landing gear. According to the available photos, some parts were red and some were silver. I have several color schemes and none are accurate. In one diagram the whole structure is silver, in the other the whole structure is red for a change. The third color scheme is just a side view. This is the closest to reality, but the side view does not show all the pipes of the entire structure.

I glued a 0.15 mm thick paste film on the outside of the door and let it (according to the photos) overlap a bit. On the inside of the door I added a handle and a pocket. I painted the inside of the door with light green-grey paint (RLM 2).

The front undercarriage leg is also painted.

The custom-made letter masks arrived last week Friday. Over the weekend I finished framing the cabin, glued the masks to the rear of the fuselage and masked off the front of the fuselage so I could spray the grille for the cooling air intake to the engine. And this morning I sprayed the letters and the ventilation grille.

Of course I was curious to see the result. The masks did their job with an A-star ... I'm a little closer to my goal again.

I glued the assembled and painted "scaffolding" to the fuselage.

I reinforced all the joints between the tubular carcass and the fuselage with hard wire pins. The manufacturer's original solution of sticking the short tabs on the ends of the tubes into the dimples on the fuselage would hardly support the weight of the fuselage with the weight.

The propeller drive gimbals are not yet fitted. The parts from the kit representing the gimbals are rods without any details. So they will need some care to make them look more realistic.

I added the elevator reinforcement cables. It wasn't until I took the photo that I realized the left rope needed a little more tension.

According to the photos (and instructions) I added reinforcement cables to the main landing gear.

Na výplety jsem použil osvědčenou technologii. Do trupu a trubkové konstrukce jsem do předem vyvrtaných otvorů vlepil očka z tenkého drátu a skrz očka protáhl tenký rybářský vlasec. Na napínáky jsem použil trubičky vytažené z uchošťourů.

Finally I painted the reinforcement cables and turnbuckles.

The parts of the kit representing the rotor drive rods are just round rods without any details. However, according to the photos, the actuators were two-piece, connected by a gimbal joint and anchored in bearings in three places. I made the parts of the universal joint and the rings of the "bearings" (roughly, for now) out of plastic tubes...

...and I strung the prepared parts on a rod from the kit for a test.
For comparison - the front is the rod for the rotor drive as offered in the kit.

There were only shallow pits on the sides of the fuselage where the drives passed into the fuselage. I drilled holes through the hull instead of the pits. The drive rods are long enough to tuck into the drilled holes.

I dry fitted the actuators in place so I could determine the correct position of the kardan joint and bearing rings and glue them in place.

The rotor drive rod is temporarily in place. The bearing retainers still need to be added and the final shape of the newly made parts needs to be fine-tuned. However, it is already obvious that this will benefit the model.

I sanded and cleaned the edges of the bearing rings and gimbal joints. Then I painted both rotor drive rods.

The cardan joints were pretty good. Please keep in mind that this photo is a really big enlargement, the real size of the joint on the model is comparable to the head of a match.

Playing with the balance of the model paid off and after all the lightening of the rear part of the hull and adding weight to the bow, Drachen is standing on his own feet from now on.

One more picture from the back to show that the fuselage is not really supported somewhere.

Painted rotor drive rods with added bearings and gimbals are already in place.

It remains to make and complete the bearing holders ...

... and assemble the control cables leading to the rotor heads and make their pulleys.

I used decals from my stash for the national insignia...

The insignie used has a white border, but the size and shape match. And the blue border will be too, I just need the paint to dry on the decal paper. I'll solve the blue border on the insignia the same way as the frames on the cab, with thin strips cut from blue sprayed decal paper.

I added bearing retainers to the bearings on the rotor drives.

I added bearing retainers to the bearings on the rotor drives.

I added a blue border to the national emblems.

I added a blue border to the national emblems.

The "scissors" for the front wheel are not in the kit, so I made them out of thin sheet metal.

The scissors for the main landing gear wheels are on the plate with the photo etchings ... actually they were ... now they are where they should be.

So I glued the door in the open position and added a running board.

These photos show that the angle of the fuselage to the ground varied, probably depending on the weight of the loaded cargo.

Since my model has two boxes of cargo on board, I chose a neutral horizontal fuselage position.

After a colleague pointed out to me that the wheel rims should probably be black, I did a little experiment. To get a better idea of the color shade in the black and white photos, I selected a photo of the nose of the model, which shows the light color of the RLM02 on the open cab door and the green wheel disc on the chassis. I have converted this photo to black and white. It can now be clearly seen that if the wheel discs had been painted only with a base colour in approximately the same shade as RLM02, they would have been considerably lighter (see open door).
This photo also confirms my assumption that the difference between RLM02 and silver is not pronounced in black and white, and given the poorer quality of the photo, RLM02 on the open doors and silver on the hull may look the same.

On the black and white photos of the Czechoslovak machines, the wheels of the chassis wheels are very dark, even against the green wheels and the red nose on the b/w photo of my model. It seems very likely that the wheel rims were black, in accordance with what the German regulations preached.

I'll redo it then. The black wheel rims are more suited to the silver and red colouring of the model anyway. 🙂

I set about modifying the pulleys that control the rotor settings. The good news is that in the kit these parts are designed as photo-etch. The bad news is that the manufacturer simplified the job and designed these parts as flat discs. Therefore, you will only find two smaller and two larger wheels on the photoetched parts, one for each of the two rotors.
As you can see in the photo, these "casters" were not shaped like flat disks, but pulleys over which control cables were stretched to control the rotors.

Adjusting the pulleys was not difficult. According to the attached drawing, I cut out the missing parts from thin plastic plates with 4, 6 and 8 mm punches and glued the pulleys together.
For the larger pulleys, I used a 6 mm diameter, 0.25 mm thick wheel for the middle piece and an 8 mm diameter, 0.13 mm thick wheel for the missing second face.
For the smaller pulley, I used a 4 mm diameter, 0.25 mm thick wheel for the middle part and a 6 mm diameter, 0.13 mm thick wheel for the missing second face.

First I glued all 4 pulleys together. I drilled and cleaned the center hole in the glued pulleys. For the larger pulleys, I drilled small shapes around the perimeter into the new plastic faces. Finally, I used fine sandpaper to clean up the small burrs left from the drilling. I glued the finished pulleys to their axles.

I painted the complete pulleys. The pulleys are ready to be mounted on the model.

The pulleys are in place.

The levers with weights on the ends of the pulley shafts are still missing. They would get in the way when pulling the control cables.

The wheels are already painted black.

The pipes supporting the footrest are in colour and I also added a cable on the left side of the footrest.

I'm getting double pulleys ready for the control cables. They'll be on the front boom of the structure carrying the rotors. I need four of these little guys. The pulleys are really small, the drill bit in the picture is 0.8 mm in diameter.

The finished model will be no dwarf. I test fitted the rotors to the model and photographed the model on a modeling mat.
The blue modeling mat is 45 x 30 cm.

After studying the photos, I made the holders for the pulleys and control cables and glued them to the model.

I cut the pulleys from round plastic profile and cut grooves around the perimeter.

I made the pulley holders from thin sheet metal, bent them to the correct shape and used CA glue to glue the pulleys to them.

I glued the finished pulleys to the structure supporting the rotors.

I also made the brackets for the control cables out of thin sheet metal and glued them to the construction.

Finally, I strung and glued the control cables. For the cables I used fishing line with a diameter of 0.14 mm, which I first dyed dark silver.

Tak jsem si vzal průbojníky s průměrem 2 a 3 mm a vysekal si z tenké plastové destičky (0,5 mm) kolekci koleček obou velikostí a k nim jsem si z plastové destičky 0,25 mm nařezal proužky o šířce 3 mm.

And he started to put the puzzle together. I was gluing wheels to tapes... I was gluing tapes to wheels... shortening tapes and sanding them into shape... ...for so long...

... until I'd assembled six pieces of future shock absorbers. I admit, it's not much yet. But they're half-finished, and there's still a bit of work to be done to get them to the final shape.

I sanded the assembled rotor blade vibration dampers to the correct shape and glued them to the rotor.
After the glue dried, I painted the entire assembly.

I sanded the assembled rotor blade vibration dampers to the correct shape and glued them to the rotor.
After the glue dried, I painted the entire assembly.

I sanded the assembled rotor blade vibration dampers to the correct shape and glued them to the rotor.
After the glue dried, I painted the entire assembly.

I sanded the assembled rotor blade vibration dampers to the correct shape and glued them to the rotor.
After the glue dried, I painted the entire assembly.

I made the rods for the rotor blade vibration dampers from thin wire. The raised wires are future cables. Now it's time to paint and shape them.

I made the rods for the rotor blade vibration dampers from thin wire. The raised wires are future cables. Now it's time to paint and shape them.

The rods and cables are in place and painted.

The rods and cables are in place and painted.

Finally, I sprayed red stripes on the rotor leaves.

Finally, I sprayed red stripes on the rotor leaves.

I added the last missing details to the rotor heads.

I glued the finished rotors to the gearboxes at the end of the beams.

I added a footrest to the chassis strut.

Under the bow, I added miature parts from etchings...
...I didn't overdo it with the smoke from the exhaust, filling the joints and operational wear, it was a relatively new and well maintained machine ...
... and the Drachen is done. 🙂

For now at least a quick photo of the finished Drachen.

For now at least a quick photo of the finished Drachen.

Comments

88 8 February 2023, 15:33

Robert Podkoński
That's ambitious! I will watch this talent show with pleasure, I am sure 🙂

8 February 2023, 16:12

Ludvík Kružík
Welcome Robert, I hope you have fun with this build. Even though it's basically a box build. But there will be a few small modifications. 🙂

8 February 2023, 17:36

Thomas Espe
Oooh, will watch this 👀

8 February 2023, 18:02

Marc Le Bayon
That's a great news. Hope to see details about it soon...

8 February 2023, 18:07

Jens
Hello Ludvík, a nice kit and few problems with the parts, what is missing are details on the rotor head and space for the weight in the nose, because the heli has to have weight, otherwise it won't stand on its wheels

8 February 2023, 18:57

Michael Kohl
Ludvik, you are planning a box build? I asure you, nobody believes this. 😉

8 February 2023, 20:08

Ludvík Kružík
Welcome, Thomas! 🙂

8 February 2023, 22:22

Ludvík Kružík
Hello, Mark. I hope the wait wasn't too long. I've just started building the model.

8 February 2023, 22:26

Ludvík Kružík
Hello Jens. Thank you for the information. I will certainly add some details on the rotor heads. The weights will be worse. There's really no room for it in the fuselage. I'll have to work around that.

8 February 2023, 22:30

Ludvík Kružík
Hey, Michael. I know this sounds unbelievable coming from me, but I really would like to make just a few necessary adjustments. At least that's my plan. But the question is what all will I have to include in the necessary modifications. 😄

8 February 2023, 22:37

Villiers de Vos
Nailed to my chair. This one has been on my wish list as well.

9 February 2023, 04:18

Robert Podkoński
To the best of my knowledge that 'something' on the bulkhead is the fuel tank, Ludviku. I remember that there was a short review of this kit in the Czech "HPM" magazine. If you wish, I could find it for you in my library and send you a scan of it.

9 February 2023, 06:26

Ludvík Kružík
Welcome, Villiers!

Robert, thank you for your kind offer. I sent you a PM.

9 February 2023, 11:23

Alec K
Very interesting project, taking a seat 👍

9 February 2023, 18:58

Melgg Lütschg
Following! 🙂

9 February 2023, 19:09

Ludvík Kružík
Welcome Melgg, I am flattered that you are interested in the progress of my model build.

Alec, I've liked this helicopter for a long time. Its unconventional design is very interesting. I've had the kit at home for a year. But I waited to build it until I had a new display case because the model I built is quite large and would not fit in my old display case. But now I have a new big display case, so nothing is stopping me from building the model.

9 February 2023, 21:59

Alec K
Yes, a fascinating design for sure. The rotor support framework will no doubt be a "fun" modeling experience 😉. On my list as well, in 1/72 scale.

Meant to ask: what kind of gel CA do you use, and how does it sand when dry?

10 February 2023, 13:44

bughunter
Seems to be a tricky built - good luck!

10 February 2023, 18:26

Ludvík Kružík
Alec, I use LOCTITE brand CA glue, the trade name is "Super Bond gel" or "Super Bond PowerFlex gel", to seal small joints and minor damage on the surface of the model. Unlike traditional liquid CA glue, you can use gel CA glue to create a thicker layer. This leaves plenty of material after the glue dries and does not create pits that need to be resealed.
In my experience, the dried glue is about as hard as the plastic parts and it sands well.

10 February 2023, 18:34

Ludvík Kružík
Bughunter, thank you for your support ! You're right, building a model requires a bit more skill and patience, it's definitely not a kit for a beginner.

10 February 2023, 18:43

Ludvík Kružík
The internal design of the cockpit and transport cabin is quite complex and although the manufacturer has done a good job, some small details are missing. The cockpit will be visible through the open door and therefore the missing equipment will need to be added.

15 February 2023, 23:41

Ludvík Kružík
After a short break, I resume building the helicopter. And I also figured out how to solve the problem with the placement of the weights in the model.

23 February 2023, 20:44

Robert Podkoński
Interior looks great, Ludviku! And these "crates" hiding the ballast is such an that idea you should try to get a patent for it 😉 Brilliant!

23 February 2023, 20:47

Ludvík Kružík
Robert, you gave me the idea. 😉 In the FA-223 article you sent me, there was also a color drawing of the helicopter's cargo bay. And in that drawing, there's a small wooden box painted on the floor of the cargo bay. When I saw the box, I got an idea. Instead of one small box, I used two large boxes and filled it with lead. 🙂

23 February 2023, 21:11

bughunter
Nice idea with the real heavy useful load boxes. Also the paint job on them!
If it is still not enough, you can replace the floor (pic 11) with lead foil 😉

23 February 2023, 21:13

Ludvík Kružík
Frank, thanks for the support and advice on another option where to add ballast. 🙂 I was basically thinking the same thing. Except I don't have to make the cabin floor out of lead sheet. You can't see it in the photos I've posted so far, but there is about a 3mm gap between the cabin floor and the fuselage. And this gap can be used for additional ballast. I'd estimate that it would hold another 20-30 grams of lead. I'm keeping that space in reserve for now.
It's hard for me to estimate how much ballast will be needed, because with this helicopter you need to balance the rather long stern (about 2/3 of the length of the model).

23 February 2023, 21:56

bughunter
Yes, and the more load you put in, the more it can unnecessarily stress the undercarriage. So better as much as necessary, but as little as possible. But you just don't know that beforehand 🙁

23 February 2023, 22:46

Alec K
I had a similar dilemma few months ago, I.e. how much weight is just enough, but not more (to Frank's point). I pretty much dry-assembled the entire airframe and taped on as many loose items as possible to simulate the finished model. Fingers crossed…

24 February 2023, 20:54

Ludvík Kružík
@ Alec K
I will be balancing this model in a similar way. However, I can afford to build a complete fuselage. Because the free space under the cabin floor (usable for additional ballast) is accessible from the front. The access to the ballast compartment will be closed by gluing the front transparent part.

I've finished working on the cockpit interior and am preparing the front fuselage for gluing the two halves together.

24 February 2023, 21:52

Villiers de Vos
Nice work on the cockpit.

25 February 2023, 04:44

Michael Kohl
I like the idea to use cargo for weight. Gotta keep that in mind. Very well executed by the way.

25 February 2023, 09:29

AndreasK
Nice progress so far, Ludvík. I'll be watching the rest. 🤗

25 February 2023, 10:02

Alec K
👍

25 February 2023, 12:03

Ludvík Kružík
@Villiers do Vos
Thank you for the kind words! As for the interior, I've replaced yesterday's photos (taken hastily in the evening under a lamp) with better ones taken today in daylight, and added a few more.

@Michael Kohl
I've been looking for a way to get ballast into the fuselage where there's no room for it. Using cargo as ballast was the easiest solution. It is visible, but if it looks like a crate being transported, it has a right to be on board. 😄

@AndreasK
Welcome Andreas, hope you have a good time.

25 February 2023, 15:12

Bruce Huxtable
Opravu, jste šikovný modelár. Tvoje práce je skvělá.

26 February 2023, 22:57

Villiers de Vos
Very nice work so far and for your tutorial.

27 February 2023, 08:37

Ludvík Kružík
@Bruce Huxtable
Thank you for the words of praise, I appreciate it.

@Villiers de Vos
Thank you for the nice feedback, it's a pleasure to have my work liked.

27 February 2023, 18:08

Jan Peters
Cool subject, following this 👀

27 February 2023, 18:12

Ludvík Kružík
Welcome, Jan!
It's a very interesting machine from my point of view. The kit is really good, but I can't avoid a few modifications.

27 February 2023, 18:32

bughunter
Nice progress 👍
Is that a slot for the cooling air between both fuselage parts? But the kit do not provide an engine?

27 February 2023, 18:34

Ludvík Kružík
Thank you, Frank!

Yes, the slot was used to move cooling air away from the engine. The cooling air intake is through a grille behind the last window on the fuselage. On the model, the grille is shown by two photo etchings. The parts with the grilles will later be glued into the fuselage recess (behind the last window).

The kit does not include the engine. It is quite logical, it would not be visible through the slot. The only way to make the engine visible would be to open the panels on the sides of the fuselage. Installing the engine in the fuselage and opening the panels would certainly bring the model to life, but on the other hand (since the engine is behind the main landing gear) the weight of the ballast in the nose would have to be increased to balance the weight of the engine.

27 February 2023, 21:03

Ludvík Kružík
Since I already have the structure on which the rotors and landing gear legs are mounted, I could test how the model balances. I attached the assembled tubular structure with landing gear legs to the assembled fuselage without gluing and set the whole thing on the table. And the load balancing in the fuel tank and boxes proved to be optimal. But my joy didn't last long. I forgot to put the horizontal tailplane on the model. After putting it on the model, the existing load was no longer sufficient. Out of curiosity I weighed the assembled elevator - it has 4 grams. I had to use the space under the cabin floor to balance the rear fuselage with the horizontal tailplane. To balance the 4 grams of horizontal tailplane, I had to add 12 grams of ballast. For this ballast I used slices cut from lead sheet.
In the end, 60 grams of lead were needed to balance the model - 16 grams in the fuel tank on the bulkhead, 32 grams in the boxes in the cabin, and 12 grams under the cabin floor.

After checking the balance of the model, I continue working. I added more "tubes" and glued the transparent part of the cockpit to the fuselage.

1 March 2023, 22:22

bughunter
I think these struts have so far prevented anyone here from completing this kit. In any case, none of the three kit variants has an album of a finished model attached to it. It looks like it will be the first model thanks to your tenacity and some of the mates will sell their kits silently 😉 !

2 March 2023, 06:38

Villiers de Vos
Very nice progress.

2 March 2023, 07:23

Guy Rump
Great work thus far, I'm very impressed with your modelling skills and patience. 👍

2 March 2023, 09:42

Ludvík Kružík
Thank you for your posts, they are always a pleasure to read 🙂

Considering it is a short series, I would say this kit is one of the better ones in this category. And from my point of view the kit is very good. It contains all the important parts while leaving room for your own creativity and work.

Building the struts is not as difficult as it seems at first sight. Just study the instructions and the available photos of the real machine to get a better idea of their appearance. I agree with you, Frank, that these struts are the reason why modelers avoid building this model or don't finish it. The same reason why enough modelers don't build old monoplanes, biplanes or triplanes , with rigging, lots of different struts and other small details.

2 March 2023, 09:45

Jens
I'm absolutely thrilled how you help the helicopter to its feet, 60 grams of lead is a lot, but the construction of the landing gear and the struts for the rotors is very stable, and as you say not particularly difficult, I give you the quality also right, good fit and sufficient details 👍, what could cause some concern is the connection of the front fuselage and tail boom (at least that's my experience during construction) I then stabilized it with a brass rod in the middle, the narrow gap doesn't bother it 🙂
However, mine tips over because I had no ideas for the lead, it will be next time, thanks for the ideas 🙂 👍

2 March 2023, 10:06

Ludvík Kružík
Thank you Jens for your kind words. It's as you write, I had to figure out where to place a rather large load to balance a model whose interior offers very few options. Thanks to the box idea, I managed to make room for a considerable amount of ballast. And if that didn't work out, I had a ladder with a mechanic (who controls the rear of the fuselage) ready in reserve. The ladder would unobtrusively support the stern. 😉

2 March 2023, 15:27

Ludvík Kružík
The joints on the helicopter fuselage I once again puttyed with fine putty and after it hardened I sanded the joints with fine sandpaper.
On the sanded fuselage I added the engine cooling air intake grille made from photo-etched parts included in the kit.

3 March 2023, 19:24

Ludvík Kružík
My model is balanced, but it's on the edge. It's standing on its landing gear, but all it needs is a little jolt to tip over on its tail. I originally thought the ballast under the cabin ceiling wouldn't be needed, so I didn't put it there. And now I can't get it in, the front transparent part of the cab is already glued on and I don't want to take it off. Knowing me, I'm sure it would crack if I did. But how do I do that if I want the model to still be stable on all wheels? The solution pretty much presents itself. If you can't add more at the front, you have to take less at the back. Maybe make a new horizontal tailplane, much lighter than the one in the kit.

6 March 2023, 10:59

Ludvík Kružík
For those interested in building this model, I have included a diagram with the load distribution needed to balance the model in the album with photos from the model building.

6 March 2023, 14:40

Melgg Lütschg
This album is a wonderful reference for future builds! Thank you for this great effort into the documentation!

6 March 2023, 14:53

Ludvík Kružík
Thank you Melgg for your kind words! It makes me happy when my model building experience can be of use to someone 🙂

6 March 2023, 15:31

Jan Peters
Amazing work 👍🏻👍🏻

6 March 2023, 17:07

Bruce Huxtable
I like your lightweight tail solution. Really clever idea 👍

6 March 2023, 18:18

Alec K
Clever solution for a light tail unit indeed 👍

6 March 2023, 19:14

Ludvík Kružík
Mates, thank you all for your kind feedback.

If I still couldn't balance the model, I had a backup plan in reserve. I would make the entire rear fuselage the same as the horizontal tailplane.

The method of making paper parts by applying them one at a time and gluing them to the pattern piece is nothing new. We used to make carnival masks this way at school when I was a kid. 🙂

6 March 2023, 21:23

Jan Peters
I guess in this age of readymade off the shelf solutions making your own parts like this is a somewhat lost art.

7 March 2023, 05:19

Ludvík Kružík
I agree with you, Jan. In these hectic times, various ready-made accessories save time and work.
I like handmade things and that's why I like to make various accessories. I really enjoy making different parts not only from plastic but also from paper, wood, metal and other materials. It's time consuming, but it makes me all the more happy with each finished model.

7 March 2023, 21:44

Ludvík Kružík
The helicopter fuselage is ready for "camouflage" spraying.

7 March 2023, 22:58

Alec K
It's starting to look like… something 😄 😄 😄

8 March 2023, 02:01

Nathan Dempsey
Following 👀 Looking great.

8 March 2023, 03:02

bughunter
Good thing you masked the air intake grille! I would have been afraid to cover the meshes with paint.

8 March 2023, 08:35

Ludvík Kružík
@ Alec
It reminds me of something, too. And I've already figured out what it is.
Drachen's fuselage (without the vertical tailplane) is very similar to that of the Siebel Si 204. It even has very similar dimensions 🙂

@ Nathan
Thank you! Welcome aboard.

@bughunter
I didn't mask the air intake grille. But I was careful not to cover it with paint when spraying.

8 March 2023, 22:54

Ludvík Kružík
The fuselage of the helicopter was sprayed with red and silver paint.

8 March 2023, 23:43

Alec K
I think you are right! 🙂

9 March 2023, 00:06

Ludvík Kružík
I'm continuing the build by painting the cockpit overlay frames. I think those who have followed some of my builds will not be surprised that I used my own process. 😉

10 March 2023, 00:49

Nathan Dempsey
Your window frames look excellent.

10 March 2023, 01:40

Villiers de Vos
A smart builders tip.

10 March 2023, 05:19

Ludvík Kružík
The "painting" of the cabin frames with decal strips is finished.

10 March 2023, 14:46

Ludvík Kružík
A little closer to the finish line again. 🙂

13 March 2023, 20:35

bughunter
Looks good and with using masks you have the identical red 👍

13 March 2023, 21:07

Ludvík Kružík
The same color red was the main reason I preferred masks to making my own decals. 🙂

13 March 2023, 21:24

Ludvík Kružík
The dragon has spread its wings 🙂
I glued the tubular structures to the fuselage and added the rigging.

15 March 2023, 22:10

bughunter
What a huge beast already without the rotor! And a tail sitter?

15 March 2023, 22:23

Robert Podkoński
Great work on these supports and rigging, Ludviku!

15 March 2023, 22:26

Erik Leijdens
Fantastic progress, really coming alive now

15 March 2023, 22:31

bughunter
With double side tape 🙂 You really surprised me!
I thought the paint or something else destroyed the balance but now I'm feeling better.

15 March 2023, 22:49

Ludvík Kružík
@bughunter
Yes, the span of the model is quite large. With rotors it's 0,5 meters. If by "tail seat" you mean balancing the model, that's fine. To make the model easier to photograph, I taped the aft fuselage to the base with double sided tape 😉.
@Robert, Erik
Thank you for your kind words, I appreciate it.

15 March 2023, 22:51

Ludvík Kružík
@bughunter
Photos of the model with the rear fuselage raised high did not look good.

15 March 2023, 23:02

Alec K
It's indeed coming along great 👍

16 March 2023, 02:14

Ben M
Beautiful build and a good challenge!

16 March 2023, 02:19

Villiers de Vos
Your quality of work is inspiring.

16 March 2023, 06:53

Ludvík Kružík
Friends, thank you very much! Your feedback makes me very happy. 🙂

16 March 2023, 10:00

Ludvík Kružík
Today I was working on the details of the rotor drive rods.

16 March 2023, 22:58

Slavo Hazucha
joining in late, but it was a real pleasure to review the build - excellent clean work and the very scale-accurate details like the cables max it out - looking forward to follow the final phase! 👍🏻

16 March 2023, 23:22

Ludvík Kružík
Welcome, Slava! Thank you for your kind post and I hope you enjoy the continuation of the Drachen build as well.

16 March 2023, 23:44

Ludvík Kružík
The rotors drive rods are completed. Now they are waiting to be installed on the model.

19 March 2023, 18:44

bughunter
Have you seen the new decal sheet released by Special Hobby in March? I added the sheet to SM DB.
specialhobby.eu/vr-1-snb-marking-decal-1-48
May be it is helpful for the special shaped national marking.

22 March 2023, 19:35

Ludvík Kružík
Frank, thanks for the heads-up. I know about the March decal update. As a registered customer, I get the news alerts in my email. Ironically, the new decals appeared the day after I applied the decals to the model with the national markings, which I modified to the correct form myself.

22 March 2023, 21:02

Ludvík Kružík
Another small shift towards the target. Drachen is now standing on his own two feet. :-D

23 March 2023, 22:23

Michael Kohl
Nice to see the mighty dragon up on its feet.

23 March 2023, 22:33

Robert Podkoński
You're approaching the finish line in perfect style, Ludviku!

24 March 2023, 06:43

Ludvík Kružík
@Michael
I've been looking forward to this moment. Finally I have the confidence that the work on balancing the model has paid off .

@Robert
The target is already in sight. But it's not won yet. I still have a few small parts to make and add, both rotors to install, and the finishing touches to the model (fuselage fouling from exhaust, minor wear, etc).

24 March 2023, 08:47

Neuling
Good build and interesting info. Thanks for showing/telling!

24 March 2023, 09:39

Alec K
And voila, it's balanced! Looks really good, your framework for the rotors is so well done 👍

24 March 2023, 10:37

Jan Peters
A masterpiece in progress, amazing work, I love it!

24 March 2023, 10:41

Ludvík Kružík
Mates, thank you so much for your kind comments. They are a great motivation for me as I continue to build the model. 😄

24 March 2023, 10:51

Spanjaard
Joining the party late, but what a pleasure to read through the complete build. Amazing job. Great idea to place the weight in those boxes. I may use your idea to do some cockpit frames, perfect color and no masking, I like it

24 March 2023, 16:36

Ludvík Kružík
Welcome, Spanjaard, you've come just in time to see the end of my model's construction.

I use the method of painting the cabin frames with thin strips cut from decals of my own making, especially for cabins that have complex frames with many rungs (like Drachen).
If you try this method, you will quickly find that applying decals cut into thin strips is problematic in the normal way (by transferring them from the backing paper to the model). Therefore, when applying thin strips to the cab, I use a simple method that has worked very well for me:
- First I cut the strip to the correct length.
- I soak the strip in lukewarm water and immediately after soaking, I place it on my finger with the painted side down.
- When the decal is loose, I carefully remove the backing paper from the finger so that the decal stays on the finger.
- I lightly press the finger with the decal onto the wetted cab and check to see if the strip has transferred to the cab.
- I wet the transferred strip with a brush dipped in water and adjust its position.
- When the strip is in place, I gently press and smooth it with a cotton swab to push the water out from under the decal and make the decal adhere well to the cab surface.

In this way I apply the strips one at a time to all the cab frames. I also apply small decals, such as small symbols and operational stencils, to the models in the same way.

25 March 2023, 08:09

Ludvík Kružík
Now it was the turn of the small parts. I added bearing retainers to the rotor drive shafts and added blue trim to the state emblems.

25 March 2023, 10:18

Ben M
When I try that the decals alway prefer sticking to my finger instead of the model!

25 March 2023, 12:33

Ludvík Kružík
The decal must be turned with the coloured side facing the finger. The finger should be moist, as should the cabin to which you are applying the decal. With the finger with the decal, I first press the beginning of the strip and gradually bring the finger towards the cab to press the strip. I then gradually move my finger away from the cab and check that the decal has adhered. If not, I rewet the finger and repeat the process. It takes a little practice and figuring out how to do it. But once you figure it out, it's very easy.

25 March 2023, 19:29

Spanjaard
Thanks for the extra info!!

25 March 2023, 20:58

Ludvík Kružík
Other small parts were added.

26 March 2023, 00:20

bughunter
Nice progress! That will be a beast with added rotors.
I just noticed the strange angle of the fuselage on your project picture. It looks like it's putting its nose down to take a running start.

26 March 2023, 10:17

David Taylor
Brill.

26 March 2023, 13:15

Ludvík Kružík
Frank, you make a good point. The angle of the hull in the photo matches what you wrote. But if you look closely at the photo, you can see that the helicopter is not about to take off - there is no one in the cockpit, the rotors are not spinning, and the engine is probably off.
Judging by the different angles of the fuselage to the ground in the other photos, I'm guessing that the angle depended on the weight of the cargo in the transport cabin. More weight - more compressed main landing gear springs and tail surfaces closer to the ground. Given the location of the main gear well forward and the long fuselage (from the main gear wheels to the rudder), even a small change in load must have caused a visible change in fuselage pitch. I have added photos to the album showing different fuselage positions when standing on the ground.

26 March 2023, 14:32

bughunter
The lower left photo is a good excuse if one could not avoid a tail sitter 😉

26 March 2023, 14:53

Ludvík Kružík
I had that picture saved for this 😄

I heard it wasn't that uncommon for Drachens to sit on their tails from time to time.

26 March 2023, 15:58

Ludvík Kružík
David, thank you!

26 March 2023, 16:10

Ludvík Kružík
It seems the wheel discs on this helicopter were not green but black - will be repaired.

26 March 2023, 18:31

Villiers de Vos
An amazing project.

27 March 2023, 13:46

Ludvík Kružík
Thank you Villiers!

27 March 2023, 15:05

Ludvík Kružík
I am currently researching what controlling the rotors with steel cables looked like. Unfortunately the drawings I have don't show these cables. From period photographs it is possible to see how and where the control cables were routed (I have marked them with red arrows in the photograph - fig. 113). But for the part marked with a red oval in the picture, I have no photograph or drawing to give an idea of where the cables ran.
I would like to ask if anyone has information, photographs or drawings of what the rotor head looked like and would be willing to provide them.
In the event that I am unable to obtain the necessary information, I will improvise.

27 March 2023, 15:49

Neil
I wholeheartedly agree with Villiers! Impressive work 👏

27 March 2023, 17:05

Ludvík Kružík
Niel, thank you for the compliment. 🙂

27 March 2023, 17:40

Jens
Hello Ludvik
look in this page, something below gives "User Kannonenvogel"
good tips for control and wiring

modellboard.net/index.php?topic=64097.0

27 March 2023, 17:42

Michael Kohl
Kannonenvogel has an Encyclopedia of original documents of german interwar and WW II-planes/helicopters. He is more than happy to share. The easiest way is to post a request on the german modelling site modellboard.net (mind the double-L) that Jens pointed out. If you like to have assistance just post me a pm.

27 March 2023, 20:10

Ludvík Kružík
Jens, that's exactly what I needed to know. My big thanks to you.

27 March 2023, 20:15

Ludvík Kružík
Michael, I appreciate your help. The pictures from the link Jens sent me show everything I needed to know.
Herzlichen Dank!

27 March 2023, 20:50

David Taylor
Brill.

29 March 2023, 17:31

Ludvík Kružík
I am gradually adding more details.

29 March 2023, 18:01

Jan Peters
That is seriously large, how wide is it? 50, 60cm?

29 March 2023, 18:36

Ludvík Kružík
Yes, it's a big model. The fuselage length is 28 cm and the span of the "wings" including the rotor blades is up to 53 cm (depending on the rotor rotation).

29 March 2023, 19:02

bughunter
Does it fit into your recently shown cabinet?
Very nice rotor control parts.

29 March 2023, 20:50

Ludvík Kružík
One of the reasons I got the new display case was to have somewhere to put the big models. The display case is almost 190 cm wide and 40 cm deep. So Drachen can fit in it without any problem. 🙂

29 March 2023, 21:17

Jens
Hello Ludvík, I'm glad I could help with little things and the model is really nice to look at, your ideas about the weight distribution are great, and I'll definitely copy it for my No. 2 👍

30 March 2023, 04:58

Zsolt Czegle
AWESOME WORK! 👍

30 March 2023, 05:41

Guy Rump
Superb build! 👍

30 March 2023, 07:07

Ludvík Kružík
Jens, I'm glad the weight distribution plan is useful and will help in building the model.
If I were to build this model again, I would make the entire rear section new and lighter. I would use the same method that you can use to make transparent cockpit overlays. I would just use a thin plastic plate instead of a thin acetate sheet.

31 March 2023, 17:11

Ludvík Kružík
Mates, thank you for your support and kind contributions.

31 March 2023, 17:15

Ludvík Kružík
Another small procedure in the work on the model. I added the control cables and their pulleys.

31 March 2023, 17:58

Spanjaard
those pulleys, holders and cables are fantastic

31 March 2023, 18:15

Bernhard Schrock
Top notch! Your control cables look superb!

31 March 2023, 19:41

Ludvík Kružík
Thank you very much mates for the great feedback!
All that's left to do is add rotors and a few bits and pieces... and the model will be ready. 🙂

1 April 2023, 08:30

bughunter
Compared with modern helicopters that sounds a bit crazy to control the rotor with cables. But so it is nice to show that difference on your model 👍

1 April 2023, 12:08

Villiers de Vos
Phenomenal work.

1 April 2023, 13:01

Ludvík Kružík
@bughunter
From today's perspective, controlling rotors with cables is ridiculous. But when we consider the era in which this helicopter was built and that it was one of the first machines of this type in practical use, I have to bow deeply to the ingenuity of the creators of this machine.

@Villiers
Thank you for the praise. I very much appreciate your support.

1 April 2023, 14:19

Ludvík Kružík
I kind of felt bad that the model building was nearing completion. And in order to enjoy the build for a little while longer, I decided to tweak the rotor heads a bit. 😉

2 April 2023, 10:13

Ludvík Kružík
I added more photos to the album - I'm gradually adding details to the rotor heads.

4 April 2023, 05:39

Alec K
Aha! The inevitable "this great show is ending and I'll have to decide what next" feeling. I completely relate Ludvíku. This one will for sure be one of a kind 👍

4 April 2023, 12:37

Ludvík Kružík
Alec, you're absolutely right. It's exactly as you write. 😄
It always takes me a long time to decide what model I'm going to build next. Should I go for one of my scratch-build projects, or choose a challenging modification of an old kit, or just something relaxing? It's always a struggle. 🙂 In the end the mood and taste of the moment will decide.

4 April 2023, 17:15

bughunter
This thinking about new projects can lead to losing focus on the last metres of the current project. So please keep the focus and finish it in the great quality we have seen until now 👍

4 April 2023, 17:44

Slavo Hazucha
Im just following in astonished silence where this build goes - almost finished - and then not 🙂 Fascinating amount of detail - this must look great in real life! The cables and heads - the entire rotor assembly - just look fantastic... Very much looking forward to the next steps and the finish line 👍

5 April 2023, 13:13

Ludvík Kružík
@bughunter
Don't worry. I'm wondering what model I'm going to choose since I can't do any building 🙂.

@Slavo
Thank you so much for the kind words. 🙂
The truth is that the rotor heads in the kit are very simplistic and it would be a shame to leave them that way.

5 April 2023, 20:11

Ludvík Kružík
Minor construction progress... added a few wires.

5 April 2023, 20:39

Villiers de Vos
I remain astonished by all the details that you are adding. Simply a masterpiece.

6 April 2023, 06:14

Ludvík Kružík
Villiers, thank you.
The production of details is not really that complicated. It's fun... and it helps the model look better. 🙂

6 April 2023, 21:47

Ludvík Kružík
The "show" is over. Drachen is finished.
For now at least two pictures of the finished model, I will take more pictures in a separate album in the near future.

7 April 2023, 17:00

Robert Podkoński
Congrats, Ludviku! It's a masterpiece! (And that's the advantage of having new, empty display cabinets 😉 )

7 April 2023, 20:14

Villiers de Vos
Very nice work and a good tutorial.

7 April 2023, 20:32

David Taylor
Superb build,congrats.

7 April 2023, 20:37

Jan Peters
Epic build 👏👏
Looking forward to your final pictures

7 April 2023, 21:01

Spanjaard
truly a masterpiece

7 April 2023, 21:01

Nathan Dempsey
Awesome finish. I thoroughly enjoyed watching this build.

7 April 2023, 23:56

Curatorm
This is awesome.

8 April 2023, 06:11

Slavo Hazucha
I guess there is no detail on the exterior left out... Came together perfectly and everything creates the right scale impression - congrats! Also the art of subtle realistic light weathering is something I admire (but do not practice myself 🙂 ) Top job all over with all the right decisions taken and well executed 👍🏻

Looking forward to the final album!

8 April 2023, 06:28

Erik Leijdens
Awesome build. I reckon it required all your skills and above all patient! Impressive work all around

8 April 2023, 08:26

Alec K
Impressive build indeed, hard to add to the comments above. Congrats 👍

8 April 2023, 16:55

Ludvík Kružík
@Robert
The large display case has proven itself, Drachen fits in it without any problems 🙂.

@Slavo
You're too lenient, I know there are minor errors on the model. Still room for improvement 🙂

@Erik
I try to use my skills to the best of my ability in every build, but that's what every modeler does 🙂

Mates, thank you all for your follow and comments. And I look forward to seeing you on one of my next projects.

8 April 2023, 17:34

Ludvík Kružík
You can see the finished model in this album: Focke Achgelis FA-223, Czechoslovak Police Air Force - finished model | Album by KLuK (1:48)

8 April 2023, 17:36

bughunter
I missed the end due to holiday but here nothing gets lost 😉 Nice to see a finished early helicopter!

14 April 2023, 19:45

Ludvík Kružík
Hope you enjoyed your holiday. 😉

14 April 2023, 20:42

Album info

I decided to expand my collection of Czechoslovak Air Force aircraft. This interesting helicopter of German design flew briefly in 2 pieces (some sources say 3 pieces) in post-war Czechoslovakia.
The helicopter served in the Police Air Force and there is one interesting fact connected with this activity. It was the first helicopter in the world that was used for traffic control.

Focke Achgelis FA-223, Czechoslovak Police Air Force

171 images

1:48

Completed

1:48 Focke Achgelis FA 223 Drache (Special Hobby SH48201)

All albums

View all albums »