Thanks C Marques, Edward, Gerald, Wim, and Markus! Your very kind words brighten my day!
Edward and Christian, my paint process for both metalwork and regular paint goes like this:
1. Black primer base (Gunze Mr Surfacer 1500 Black)
2. White marble/doodle coat for "black-base" pre-shade using Tamiya White Liquid primer. I use this product mostly because I have a TON of it and no longer use it as a primer, so just trying to use it up. You can use any white, or even a light gray if you wish. I prefer white because it is easier to control how much I let though the basecoat. If I use gray it can quickly be covered completely, losing it's effect. I have gone from being quite deliberate with this stage and taking a long time to doing quick doodles and figure eights as well as heavy and light patches. This now takes me half the time it used to because I just go and dont think about it. This actually helps me to be more random, which is the goal. It is easy to be a little to uniform, which is the opposite of the nature or real weathering.
3. Base Coat. I build up color slowly, allowing some of the pre-shading to come through. More so in some areas, less so in others. I like to use Mr Paint, Gunze Aqueous, and Tamiya paints as much as possible.
4. Clear Coat for decals. I BRUSH paint straight Future on the entire model. Depending on the glossiness of the paint, I will apply one or two coats. Then apply decals. I use future as my decal setting solution as well.
5. After decals have been applied, I wait one day and apply the wash. I really like using the MIG Ammo washes. I prefer Deep Gray for most gray aircraft and Deep Brown for other colors, such as tans, browns, and greens. I apply this rather haphazardly and liberally along all panel lines and rivets. I don't try to get cute with precision pin washes or try to be neat. Once again randomness is your friend here. I let this dry for about 30 mins to an hour. I like it to be juuust a little wet still so that I can get nice streaking and staining effects. The Deep Gray is great for gray aircraft because it has a little brown cast to it, giving it a nice dirty look when applied. If my clear coat was just right it will mostly come up with just a lint free rag or Q-tips without the need to add Odorless Turpentine or any other solvent. I wipe from front to rear of the plane, to give it the effect of motion and streaks from airflow.
6. Next up I use Tamiya Smoke. I like to randomly fill panels, out line some panels, outline some panel lines, create shadows and other stains, and then randomly spray darker areas. I can effectively control how dark these areas are by how many coats or how heavy I apply the Smoke.
7. Next I use Tamiya Rubber Black (heavily thinned), to give even more depth, dirt, and grime in random areas and to give more "pop" to areas that would be grimier than others. This also has a different dark hue than both the smoke and the washes, giving a nice contrast not only in color depth, but also in color hue.
8. Finally, I apply the flat coat. I make my flat coat using future and Tamiya Flat Base X-21. Ratio of about 6 parts Future to 1 part X-21. Don't go too much more X-21 than that as it will "frost" if you are not careful. I spray this one, and can control how flat I want the finished coat is by how much I apply. That's it!
For the metalwork (other than the nozzles on this, which was a different process), my workflow usually goes like this:
1. Alclad Gloss Black Primer is applied after masking off the other areas. I usually do my metalwork after the rest is already painted. Just a personal preference.
2. Next I spray Alclad Airframe Aluminum. I really like this stuff. I can control how shiny it is by how much I apply. It is also easy to modulate the paint with this to get tonal variation to create wear areas. It also sprays much nicer than the other Alclads because the metallic pigments are much smaller than the others. That is why it can get such a high shine.
3. Next I spray Gold Titanium or Pale Burnt Metal along the panel lines to simulate heat stress. This will only slightly show through later, but gives a really nice effect.
4. Next up I sprayed Burnt Iron on the darker panels of the exhaust section, based on what I saw in pictures.
5. On this build, I next sprayed my Flat Coat mix over the entire metal area. I usually do not do this, but pictures I have seen seem to show these areas a really flat. This really made the shiny areas that I had left shiny towards the forward fuselage look faded and worn, which was a great result I had not expected. Happy Accident, I say!
For the nozzles, I also used Alclad Gloss Black primer, then Airframe Aluminum. Then I sprayed Gold Titanium over the entire nozzle area. I then took some more Airframe Aluminum and started spraying random "spots" of varying size and shape. I then took some clear blue, and sprayed over these "spots" with varying intensity. I then took clear red and sprayed over these "spots" again, also with varying intensity. I then went back in with airframe aluminum and sprayed over that lightly on some of the "spots", but leaving others alone.
On the inside, the inner panels were painted with Alclad Gloss Black Primer, then Airframe Aluminum, then I sprayed MRP Russian Wheel Green over it, giving it a metallic green appearance. I then gave it a wash of black, then dry brushed some light tan in there. Then I went in with Tamiya Rubber Black to give it a bit of a sooty black look around the ends of the petals and outer edges.
Anyway, I sure have rambled on, but I hope this helps.
If you have any specific questions, please feel free to ask!
25. June at 19:22:27