bughunter A warm welcome to all of you!
Oh Björn, you got infected with the biplane wire entanglements virus? Very hard to get rid of I guess you will stick to 1:48? I noticed some trend back to 48 after WNW dies. This will be interesting, your quality work applied to this category!
25. October, 21:58
bughunter This Fokker needs an Oberursel U.I with 100 hp. Luckily this type of rotary engine is available from Small Stuff and I had it in my stash. The whole action from pic 10 to 15 included painting, mounting and weathering with oil paint took 2 hours 40 minutes. This was not my first engine made by Small Stuff
bughunter After a stroke of fate (hopefully the year 2020 will be over soon!) I tried to distract myself a little by continuing to build on the Fokker.
As usual for that time there were different air screw types mounted to the Fokker D.V
Some are very comparable to types I created already but some pictures shows a Garuda. Due to the wide blades those are looking interesting and since there is no air screw shown on my Fokker on the two known crash pictures I will go with that.
As additional references I used the "Fokker Eindecker Compendium 1" (great book!) and the book "German Propeller Makers of WWI: Part One", which includes Garuda. The shape is really complicated so my first try failed. This is the second one.
Not my best to date, but I will use it. The shape of the Garuda is really difficult to replicate!
13. November, 22:12
bughunter Thx Daniel! Haven't noticed your post done during my update
14. November, 07:36
Greg Baker "Not my best" he says... I strive to such imperfections.
Hopefully the distractions are working. I suspect many of us need them.
bughunter Of course there is a seat in the kit, but if I look on the reference pictures, there is a big difference. The seat looks very special for a specific reason.
The rotary with 100 h.p. was not very powerful for its time, so the Fokker designers tried all to save weight. The fuselage structure looks very fragile and so also the seat.
It is may be a bit too much work for a detail mostly hidden later, but I wanted to try also the Connecto crosses by Albion Alloy and want to use the seat as prototype for a bigger project. Some always try to convince me to do a scratch project and at least I have an idea now.
Alec K Seat looks great . Also interested in your take on the connecto.
15. November, 13:54
bughunter Thank you mates! The crosses are a nice add-on to our scratch materials. I only ordered the wrong size, because the description on the online shop was wrong (informed them, this is corrected now). So I used here one size smaller, but with soldering it works too.
15. November, 15:20
gorbygould Excellent! Another Bughunter gem to marvel at.
15. November, 15:55
bughunter gorbygould, welcome to the show!
Today I took a closer look at the photos while having a coffee, among other things a large-sized picture of the front. I noticed the suspension in detail. The people at Fokker welded small cross tubes on the axle and small limiting plates on the sides to prevent the rubbers from slipping. How should I mount it durable? It falls apart again when I solder it!
Actually I wanted to continue building the cockpit to be able to close the fuselage. But I really wanted to see if the idea works and I could get the axle done with brazing. I love this feeling of happiness when it works!
15. November, 16:25
bughunter To be able to close the fuselage I continued to work on the cockpit parts.
Bernhard Schrock Moin Bughunter. Mal wieder ein grooooosses Kino. Du hast geschrieben, dass du Piano wire (das gleiche wie Gitarrensaite? Aus Edelstahl?) hart gelötet hast. Ich habe immer gelernt/gedacht, dass man Edelstahl nicht löten kann. Habe ich mit meinen Gitarrensaiten mit Lötkolben probiert und nie geschafft. Wo steckt Dein Geheimnis?
21. November, 18:39
bughunter Thx Greg!
Bernhard, das sind keine Gitarrensaiten. Ich habe das in den AJP Bausätzen kennengelernt, stand in der Anleitung "Piano wire", also Klaviersaiten. Sehen aus wie Eisen und lassen sich problemlos weich! löten. Super Material, wenn Messing zu weich ist. Bei der AJP Demoiselle waren die 3 langen Rumpf-"Bambus"-Stangen daraus. Habe die dann in ebay uk gefunden und mir ein paar Stücke 0,8 1,0 1,2 1,5mm etc bestellt. Die Achsen der Umlaufmotoren mache ich jetzt oft daraus, die Begrenzungsstücke weich gelötet. Weiß nicht, ob das Material rosten kann
Bei der Achse habe ich die Messingstückchen nur hart auf die Achse gelötet, damit ich die weiteren Teile weich anlöten kann, ohne daß alles wieder auseinanderfällt.
Spanjaard as usual, trying to get my jaw back in place after is dropped totally.... amazing detail bughunter. simply stunning. as usual
22. November, 21:19
Greg Baker I think we should have "relative feedback/praise".... maybe I'll make it a request for Tim. So, for example, when I'm able to glue two pieces of plastic together without leaving a sticky fingerprint, the crowd should go wild with praise, but we'll reserve our applause for Bugsy until he does something truly monumental... but not for his run of the mill genius.
23. November, 00:32
René "Bilbo" Bartholemy @bughunter : Und womit lötest du so heiß? Mein Welleman Lötkolben geht bis höchstens 450°C...
Nur zur Info, erst muss ich lernen weich zu löten. Oder eher "überhaupt zu löten", so *einfach* finde ich das nämlich nicht.
23. November, 09:09
bughunter Oh Greg is in top form again!
Bilbo, niemand hat behauptet, daß Löten einfach sei, das erfordert Übung! Eine Frage des Timigs usw. Habe über 40 Jahre Löterfahrung und bin darin "gedrilled" worden
Hartlöten ist ganz was anderes, das geht nur speziellem Lot mit Flußmittel und einem Brenner. Gibt einen von Proxxon, die Flamme geht bis 1300°C. Dazu braucht es einen Schamottstein oder ähnliches als feuerfeste Unterlage. Braucht man aber normalerweise nicht für unsere Modelle