a239947
Hi Tim, would you be willing to sell a copy of the decal sheet you designed for this car so others can print them? I would like to do this car to go with my JPS car.

wildmeninaction
Thanks a lot! I've found it at a local store and going to try it out. In your builds it really does make a huge difference imo.

wildmeninaction
I got the Motip anti gravel (ean 8711347000012) but I honestly can't see any texture when I tested it on a bit of plastic, it was just like black paint. I only did one coat though, maybe it comes with more coats?

Tim van Dooremalen
You have to put on several thin layers from a distance (about an arms length). Just a short burst and then let it dry for a couple of minutes, then repeat until there is enough build up.

wildmeninaction
Thanks, I will try that tonight

wildmeninaction
I did as you said and it worked perfectly, thanks a lot for the advice. I also did the dash and it looks a lot more like real plastic too. How many coats do you usually do? I did 4-5 for the seats but only 2-3 for the dash and the dash came out a bit more realistic. To something different, do you clear cote before or after decals? Sorry for all the q's but I'm a complete beginner and your builds are my main inspiration right now.

Tim van Dooremalen
Number of coats depends on how I feel it looks and is also dependent on how "heavy" you put them on... just do as you like best

As for the clear coat; I always do one before decals. BUT, I now of some other car-modelers who put the decals directly on the color coat. I've had problems a couple of times when having to use microsol to get decals to go around curves and it attacked the color coat (and not the clear coat ), so since then I always do a clearcoat first.

wildmeninaction
Thanks again for good advice for a novice like me. I've bought some flocking and was thinking of flocking the seats, steeering and dashboard for some models, but the Motip looks so realistic and getting decals on with flocking is impossible so this is a better route. I also love your weathering on Paddon's Skoda, was that hard to achieve? I'm thinking of using some panel wash on the wheels for brake dust, and use the Tamiya weathering pens for dirt.

Tim van Dooremalen
That weathering was a combination of MIG pigments and artists oil. Hard to explain how to do that, I got the technique from a youtube video on how to work with these pigments (they're used a lot on military builds). The weathering pens are an unkown to me, I'd literally never heard of them before you mentioned them

gorbygould
Excellent work! Those decals would drive me nuts.

Tim van Dooremalen
Try this one (click on the picture for a bigger one):[img1]

Spanjaard
Nice colourful ride

bossy122
Nicely done. We're there any issues dealing all the differing surfaces and aeros?

Tim van Dooremalen
Not really. The extra aero is mostly photoetch that should (and can) be glued on after decalling. I did paint part of the body blue to minimize gaps between decals. In general the decals fit very nice and react nicely to softener and heat.

Chris Greathouse
That's an awesome looking racer!

Margus Vasar
Now I have seen everything

Chris Greathouse
Woah! That racer in the water is amazing!

Laurent "HELLER-forever"
nice