wildmeninaction Thanks a lot! I've found it at a local store and going to try it out. In your builds it really does make a huge difference imo.
7. January, 09:57
wildmeninaction I got the Motip anti gravel (ean 8711347000012) but I honestly can't see any texture when I tested it on a bit of plastic, it was just like black paint. I only did one coat though, maybe it comes with more coats?
9. January, 13:09
Tim van Dooremalen You have to put on several thin layers from a distance (about an arms length). Just a short burst and then let it dry for a couple of minutes, then repeat until there is enough build up.
wildmeninaction I did as you said and it worked perfectly, thanks a lot for the advice. I also did the dash and it looks a lot more like real plastic too. How many coats do you usually do? I did 4-5 for the seats but only 2-3 for the dash and the dash came out a bit more realistic. To something different, do you clear cote before or after decals? Sorry for all the q's but I'm a complete beginner and your builds are my main inspiration right now.
12. January, 15:46
Tim van Dooremalen Number of coats depends on how I feel it looks and is also dependent on how "heavy" you put them on... just do as you like best
As for the clear coat; I always do one before decals. BUT, I now of some other car-modelers who put the decals directly on the color coat. I've had problems a couple of times when having to use microsol to get decals to go around curves and it attacked the color coat (and not the clear coat ), so since then I always do a clearcoat first.
22. January, 17:57
wildmeninaction Thanks again for good advice for a novice like me. I've bought some flocking and was thinking of flocking the seats, steeering and dashboard for some models, but the Motip looks so realistic and getting decals on with flocking is impossible so this is a better route. I also love your weathering on Paddon's Skoda, was that hard to achieve? I'm thinking of using some panel wash on the wheels for brake dust, and use the Tamiya weathering pens for dirt.
30. January, 09:29
Tim van Dooremalen That weathering was a combination of MIG pigments and artists oil. Hard to explain how to do that, I got the technique from a youtube video on how to work with these pigments (they're used a lot on military builds). The weathering pens are an unkown to me, I'd literally never heard of them before you mentioned them
bossy122 Nicely done. We're there any issues dealing all the differing surfaces and aeros?
24. October 2019, 08:52
Tim van Dooremalen Not really. The extra aero is mostly photoetch that should (and can) be glued on after decalling. I did paint part of the body blue to minimize gaps between decals. In general the decals fit very nice and react nicely to softener and heat.