this is a review, not a gallery article
February 8, 2021
December 16, 2020
That is a nice trick. Got the same lamp, si I would certainly keep this for future reference! Thanks
Thank you very much!
But I can see a problem here, your lamp head seams to be smaller. Since mine is wider I need also some force to lock the round pin coming out of the lamp to hold the lamp in a specific position. The original clamp offers that. Let's see.
That is why the original clamp broke As I wrote in the captions of the photo's addign a small pin to prevent that the Aluminium piece pivots around the connection to the stand does the trick. Making the screw longer so that it is held between the propellor shaped handle works as well.
The lower bolt (without a nut) secures only, that the lamp cannot jump out, right? May be a slot cut from the side and adding a nut to that bolt would allow securing the lamp bolt in every position.
Not really, you cannot compress the aluminium piece. If you do that then it will beak after some time (just like the original piece). What you could do is drill the hole in which the screw sits a bit bigger until the middle (so only one side of the lamp-pin), put a small drum in it and then a bolt. This way the bolt will press against the lamp and hold it in place. But i don't really have problems with the lamp moving as I made the two perpendicular holes quite well measured.
I use the lamps not only in a horizontal position, as I have two on each side, so I them a bit tilted. And I use them also vertical outside of a light tent for the model pictures.
The reason why its break is this zamac die casting. May be I will use brass.
The type is this one: [img1]
if this is a known issue, would it not be possible to get a replacement from the manufacturer?
of course, maybe they simply do not bother....
December 15, 2020
November 4, 2020
November 3, 2020
September 23, 2020
September 3, 2020
Is it possible to hide an album until it is ready for publication?
Reason for asking is to be able to store images of an on-going build in the album and only present it to the community when the album is ready.
I kinda agree with JD, but the project as it currently stands doesn't really work that way as the album contains the photos of work in progress, the discussion happens mostly on the album. As a result, I now turn off commenting on Projects and just use Albums. The project only exists to link the kit to the album. Now I've discovered Collections, I'll be moving my multi kit projects to Collections, and the projects will be the individual builds only
The newsfeed algorithm is slightly updated:
1) Nobody sees your albums in the newsfeed unless a picture is uploaded
2) New albums (even with pictures) are only visible in the newsfeed after 3mins
So it basically means you have 3mins to get things to a reasonable level. (looking at most new albums the 3mins is a nice time)
if that is an issue: You can always delete the "newsfeed" entry and reenable it when you are ready. (recently a button was added at the bottom of your album to restore it in the newsfeed)
However your albums are 100% visible in your profile from second 1 (that will not change)
Having thought about it some more, I agree with Starbase101 in that, keep all your photos on your device until ready to publish, thus you need only publish your project intentions, or nothing at all until you are ready. Then it's easy to upload pics, put them in the right order, and add captions very quickly. Otherwise, if you publish an album then it's fair game for running commentary, which may or not be desirable. Some only post completed models without any building process, and that's fine too. You can have it both ways. I've just completed my first public build, and it's certainly a different experience. Can be stressful at times, when you know people are watching, but everyone at Scalemates has been so supportive and nice it has made the hobby much more enjoyable, and has been a powerful learning experience for me.😎
And a good build it is too JD. I really think that the discussion is deeper in a build album. Finished articles mostly seem to peeter out after the first few comments. Personally I'd love to have some way to tag an album as "Build" "Finished" or "Reference", so I'd have a place for the reference photos that is clear. Although I'd probably still put my Finished in the Build album and just set the First completed photo as the title picture.
When I'm deciding which brand of kit of a particular subject I will purchase, I do look through the associated projects & albums, a Build album is gold, because I can see what the base kit is like. Finished is all well and good, but it doesn't tell you which details are the kit and which were added by the modeller.
Dominik's recent dual build is a perfect example. With just the finished album, you'd be forgiven for thinking the kit comes with opening doors and trunk.
July 29, 2020
A have an academy Mig-29 and made the mistake of putting the original decals on: Ugly as hell 🙁
I got replacements but now the originals seem impossible to remove without scratching the paint. I used future on top of the paint but decals are not yet sealed with a second layer of future.
Oo thats going to be hard due to the future, was the paint acrylic or enamel?
And you know, the paint job I've done is just perfect compared to my normal level of painting (well, airbrushing actually, i would hate ruining the paint.
Let me have a think.. do you have any micro set? that *should* work to release the decal, if we can get the future coat off. future should come off with Windex on a q-tip.. just rub over the decal to remove the future coat, then use the micro set to loosen it off..
thats about best I can think of
I have micro set and sol, already tried, no solution, and the future is only under the decal, not on top of it.
I put on one solid layer of future and then started to put on decals. I stopped when realising quality was very poor; I bought some good aftermarket decals but can't get the old monsters of.
I think the only way is very careful sanding. I would try micromesh polishing cloths. And some tape for the surrounding area.
Could try masking tape.. I've had it lift decals off before
Good to know the kit decals are crap, as I have that kit also. I will invest in some aftermarket decals. I have also had masking tape lift off decals, like Augie said.
I second Augie's masking tape suggestion. Ordinary Tamiya tape should be enough to lift the decals without disturbing the paint beneath. I learned this the hard way on one of my early builds😉
From my experience with future aka Pledge, is that it will dissolve in water if you soak it for 10-20 minutes. It will begin to turn white first, and since you have used enamels underneath, it may be worth trying, and hopefully the decals will come off underwater.
July 7, 2020