Hobby Room Remodel - Star Trek Themed
It's time to remodel the "man cave" (although half the room is also my wife's hobby area). I have been granted permission to theme the room as inspired-by the original Star Trek series, including props such as a desktop intercom concealing a Google Mini voice-activated assistant.
The voyage begins - removing carpet and the tedious task of prepping the walls for paint. If anybody's got ideas I'd love to hear them. Wait till you see what the new desk will look like!
Oh, cool! I'm doing my own 1:1 scale diorama of a hobby room... can't wait to see how this deluxe version pans out.
Btw, I also have white walls and I recently used a dry microfiber cloth wiping the walls and ceiling, and found that I had some minor green yellowish coloring on the cloth, so apparently some of the spray, perhaps for my first high psi airbrush job (too high) is to blame for the pigments finding their way to the walls. So, imo, best to avoid wiping walls with moist cloth.
Wow, this is going to be EPIC!
Last night all the walls and baseboards were cleaned with Simple Green and water, revealing a few more areas needing patched. Any place paint is worn away (from furniture rubbing against it, "oops" bumps, etc) turns slightly darker during washing as the exposed drywall paper gets damp. The most troublesome area was where the door hinges were removed because they always "leak" black residue, but Simple Green did a fair enough job cleaning it up.
No spray painting had yet been done in the room and I've got a desktop spray booth with ventilation fan for future painting of smaller parts. Larger jobs are always painted outside. I'm considering maybe installing a sort of dryer duct vent for connecting the spray booth's exhaust hose, but that wall faces the front of the house so I'd need to attach an inconspicuous vent cover to the outside and it's a second-floor room. I don't like climbing that high on a ladder, so my hope is to have it close enough to the window that I can just do the installation by removing the window screen and reaching outside.
Covid has made it to our house due to one of my wife's coworkers going to work with symptoms before testing positive, so I haven't made as much progress this week as I had planned by today. We're not seriously incapacitated, just a feeling of being tired, achy muscles, a little chest "tightness", and coughing. No fever or any of the other symptoms - in fact for the first few days/week we presumed it was just a cold, until my wife's sense of taste got affected (with regards to food, not the remodel, thank goodness). We're told the "serious" cases involving hospitalization occur fairly promptly (as in hours rather than days) so as long as it doesn't become worse we should be one of the recoveries. My wife's positive result was 4 days ago and I've got symptoms but see no point in being tested until feeling better, because frankly test results aren't going to change how I feel and our household is already "represented" by my wife's test.
Consequently, work has been getting done in short sessions with plenty of rest. Tonight's goal is to sand all the patched areas smooth and blend new wall texture onto those areas. It doesn't need to be perfect because most of it will be covered anyway by cabinets and shelving. For me it's just a matter of principle (work ethic) to have all the walls patched up before painting, except wall anchor placements that will be preserved for keeping some of the previous shelving.
Sorry for the "essay"!
I think it will finally be ready for primer tomorrow.
hope the space comes out great, this is a fun idea. feel better!
Thanks. Ibuprofen and albuterol have been effective at calming symptoms.
Cool project. Wishing you a complete recovery
This will be very interesting! Not the usual scale modelling per se.
Ditto on the interesting part. I like to see how this turns out since being a Trekie from the '60's.
Maybe I might do over my man cave in a Lost in Space theme since at the time both shows were running.
Before creating the photo album I emailed Tim to get his opinion of it since there have been other posts showing people's "hobby cave", and he encouraged uploading photos. I guess you could call this a 1:1 hobby room diorama.
Nice idea, good luck
It's been a few days, because I've just been too exhausted and achy to work on this, but finally got two coats of the color on. I've been told that paint matched to the original studio sets is Sherwin-Williams SW 7072 "Online" https://sherwin-williams.com..lors-by-family/SW7072-online , but in normal room lighting this is too dark in my opinion. Filming sets are typically brightly lit with studio lighting, so the color appears lighter onscreen and that's how I'm wanting my room to look under normal lighting. Consequently, I went with a slightly lighter shade having a cooler name to boot - Behr MQ5-31 "Distant Star" https://behr.com/consumer/ColorDetailView/MQ5-31 which is similar to the difference between cool white versus warm white - "Online" looks like a "dirty" gray with a tinge of brown to it, whereas "Distant Star" is a "cool" gray with a very slight tinge of blue to it. The color will look better later when the ceiling bulbs are changed from incandescents to LED (that's why the slight yellowish glow on the wall). Next up will be taking advantage of the bare floor to get doors painted.
The closet doors will be TOS orangish-red color. At first I was planning to replace the pulls (handles) with satin nickel to match all the other hardware replacements in the room, but all the aftermarket pulls have ugly nail holes in them. So now I'm thinking maybe just leave them as the OEM brass as a nod to TOS uniform shirt trim (chest emblem and sleeve rank). The red/gold combination may look better than red/nickel. I could cut out black vinyl Engineering symbols or Starfleet Command "stars" on our Silhouette Cameo to place within the circles. Thoughts?
The first coat of paint is on the closet doors. The color is Behr P180-7 "Top Tomato" https://behr.com/consumer/ColorDetailView/P180-7 which is a much more orange-red in person than how the online sample appears. Heck, my iPhone photo even shows the color better than the Behr website. This color range is not part of the one-coat-guarantee line and at least two coats will be needed.
Very very cool project.
Started painting the main door, the other side to be painted tomorrow. https://behr.com/consumer/ColorDetailView/PPU13-9
Cool. I hope the door slides and makes the 'sweeeerk' noise too
Converting a hinged door into a pocket door after the house is already framed and built would be a huge task, so no sliding doors except the manually-operated hanging closet doors.
It's carpet day!
It took all day, but all the tiles are dry-fitted. They felt heavier than I expect they would have been under normal circumstances, especially towards the end of the day. Sad it was, to lift them all back up for re-boxing in reverse sequence. Tomorrow night after my day job the plan is to cover the floor with adhesive.
Floor adhesive is on - now need to wait 4-8 hours for it to set before applying the carpet tiles. Because of the day job, this will translate to ~24 hours (which they said at the store is even better for being able to lift them up when one needs replacing). So now the whole upstairs stinks like glue.... I think I'll keep downstairs for awhile.
Carpet tiles are glued in and I'm now ready to start moving back in. But, waiting for my Star Trek themed desk to ship.
really curious to see how the final result
If you use an office chair mat, they come in large sizes btw, makes it safer against paint spills, and easier to find parts that fall off the table and onto the floor. A goal of mine, is to try keep that (my) room tidy, so that I can easily clean the dust on the floor. I have positive pressure I am sure (filtered vent blows air into the room), so that helps prevent dust from the living room going into the hobby room I think.
Thanks, we've used chair mats, the last ones being more-expensive thicker mats, and just don't like them. I've got nearly a full case of leftover carpet tiles so if there is a paint spill or something it will be simple to just swap out the affected tile(s). This carpet has practically no pile to it so in the unlikely event a small part does escape from the desktop it should be easily recaptured. One good thing about a darker hue floor like this is that any "foreign" material stands out obviously - this I know from the two days spent laying them down, where each little spec of wood, carpet fiber, etc kept showing up (probably tracked in from my socks as I was in and out of the room) and had to keep getting picked up so the floor could be pristine at least once before all the furniture is moved in. I think dust and cat hair will always be an issue, and maybe will need to be running an air purifier in the room - we'll see.
My new desk isn't estimated to ship until Dec 4th, so this gives me a little time to sort through some boxes putting away the various photoetch, decals, and resin parts that didn't have access for storing in their respective kit boxes when they were stacked in the closet. Finally everything can get put away properly as I fill the closet back up.
Vintage rocker switches, the same kind used on the original "Star Trek" series, arrived today along with a laser-cut black plastic bezel. The fun part now is getting paint to adhere to the rockers. (They're a type of nylon plastic that won't want to play nice with paint.)
Amazing project. Looks like you got it down to a science. Excellent workmanship.
You could have a motion detector outside the door, warning of intruders..
..with matching red light and alarm sound to go "Intruder Alert". Maybe a low volume sound effect would do and no flashing red light.
Do you have any 1:350 Enterprise NCC-1701A refit kit in your stash?
I did some preliminary work on mine, planning to fit it with led's some time in the way future. I will use a christmas tree clear "ball", cut to shape and painted matte, for creating an interesting diffuser object inside the bright deflector dish, and maybe add another layer as well to diffuse the light. Stopping light bleed is important, so use of metallic paint and black, or maybe foil, and thicker black paint should do.
Ah, on the flip side, an intruder alert might be faux pas if you are supposed to share the room with your better half.
The 3D printing folks who print with nylon claim you should use dye rather than paint on nylon. I have no firsthand experience though.
@Treehugger - I like the idea, and I've had one of the TOS wall intercom prop replicas (https://ecrater.com/p/137701..-trek-electronic-door-chime) NIB in storage just for this project. It includes a motion sensor, light, and sound effects - but it's not very accurate so my plan is to build a better one from scratch and transfer the replica's electronics (along with some of my own) to a more-accurate panel. This will go near the room's doorway so it's activated whenever somebody walks by. (Unfortunately the cats will be too low to the floor for triggering this.) I'm also giving thought to hanging one of the rectangular red alert lights in the room, but only if I can track down the original glass/plastic used on the series instead of the 3D-printed replica on Etsy. (I would light this and pair it to the wall intercom either through wi-fi or blue tooth.) But that's enough upcoming "secrets" on this project for now - today's task is hanging a window shade that just arrived (insulating cellular shade that's gray on one side and white on the other side) while waiting for a $3,200 desk to arrive so I can begin modifying it. Oh, and yes - if you look at pic 29 in the photo album you can spot a 1:350 NX-01, two 1:350 TOS Enterprise, and two 1:350 Enterprise Refit (lower center of the pic). If you peek into my SCM Stash you will see I've got tons of Paragrafix, DLM, Greenstrawberry, HDA Modelworx, and other enhancements for the kits.
@Ben M - That's an interesting idea I hadn't thought of using dye instead of paint and I'll look into that, but there are 8 specific colors being matched to the original set switches. I've got the paint color codes and been told if a degreaser is used and then apply multiple thin coats the paint will adhere. I've got several extra Cutler-Hammer Rockette switches (different housing but same rocker) that I plan to experiment with using 3 different adhesion promoter brands (Dupli-Color, Rust-oleum, and Bulldog) before committing the expensive switches to paint. But I'll keep the dye idea in mind if the paint route ends up not working out.
Thanks for the suggestions and I'm always open to hearing more!
Another component has arrived today for a 1:1 scale prop to be built.
I so want to copy you for my man cave. You know, I have an idea for you to become rich and famous. After you finish your new cave you should create the first After Market Man Cave Kit (STO theme). List the paint colors needed and all the buttons, switches sound effects etc etc etc (be wary of the rivet counters). Become the Eduard of man cave AM ;P
Well, here's the problem with that, besides licensing issues - many of the components are near impossible to find if you want to be screen-accurate. I got lucky with the rocker switches that somebody who does work for the Ticonderoga TOS Set Tour was willing to sell me 8 unpainted vintage switches with a laser-cut bezel (these were not inexpensive, let me tell you...). Finding the correct rocker switches (size, style, etc) that fit together with no gaps between them, well good luck with that. The Honeywell switch for a wall panel is also rare and typically sells for over $120 when one shows up for sale. I found a new-old-stock vintage switch for only $60. It took two weeks tracking down very particular glass for another element of this project and 3 varieties are ordered for reviewing them in-person (wasn't cheap). Paint - that's the easy part. Carpet tiles - those were only around $600 (discounted sale price). The desk is over $3K and features a discontinued desktop style where I was lucky that some stock was still available at the factory for building my desk. The takeaway here is components for this project are not easy to locate, and pricey when lucky enough to find for sale. I will be photographing as I go, as this album shows thus far, and fortunately there are no rivets involved (or I'd spend half my time counting them to make sure I've got everything correct!).
You could of let me down a little more easier. But hey it sounded like a good idea at the time. Well done so far.
Here's a little something easier to look at: [img1]
The reason I've been documenting the project and including identification of the products used is so anybody else who might want to do something similar will be able to reference the research I've already done.
Damn. Furniture arrived today and it matches the wall plates and window shade, but the walls are much too light. This will just not do. I'm repainting with a different color. Damn.
Walls are repainted and working now on changing the white shelving to gray. Also got smooth plain closet doors which will be painted a different red color.
Making a little bit of a temporary mess as silver chrome striping is being added to the walls.
Finally setting up furniture!
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