scale modeling database | stash manager
Switch to DCM
Tom ... (tom...)

Tamiya: Monkey 125 - Group Build

Group Build: Tamiya Monkey Groupbuild (1. May until 31. December, Moranbah AU)


5 24 April, 18:38
Tom ...
Not an official start to the build. Just want to get the future done as soon as possible so it's fully cured later on.
24 April, 18:40
Robin (WhiteGlint)
Well, that's smooth and glossy. 👍
28 April, 10:26
Martin Oostrom
Hey Tom, you started early!
How do you apply your future?
1 May, 07:29
Tom ...
Martin, I simply dunked the whole sprue into a jar of future and then vigorously flicked the excess off. Very lucky to not have any dust collect in the process. I then placed it level as in the photo and it came out perfect! It's all down hill from here on I'm sure…
1 May, 18:02
Tom ...
It's a really nice kit. Very impressed with the tooling and quality of the plastic. Taking more time than I was thinking so far but I'm really trying to do a clean build and remove seam lines and sprue spurs as much as possible. Also doesn't help that most things need to be painted before assembly so a lot of fiddly work and not an option to paint on the sprues for me.

I'm also planning on using the chrome as is. It's actually really nice and doesn't look too toy like. Not used to working with chrome plated parts so hopefully I don't mess it up. I'm wondering if one can 2K the chrome parts to help avoid scuffing?...
2 May, 01:46
David Fuller
I would recommend NOT overcoating the chrome parts with clear. If you're curious, take a piece of the sprue and hit it with clear, but you'll find that it actually dulls it down. Tamiya chrome is generally really durable. I didn't have any issues with mine. There are only a couple spots where the attachment points are sort of visible, but Tamiya does a decent job of hiding them behind something. The worst area is the front fender. The attachment points end up being somewhat hidden by the front fork. A little bit of chrome paint brushed on it and you'll never notice unless you are inspecting for it.
2 May, 02:13
Tom ...
Thanks, David. Good to know.

Hoped to get everything primed tonight, after a marathon session of snipping, scraping and sanding, and was looking forward to seeing how well my preparations turned out (or not). Unfortunately there are two pieces that have to wait for their CA filler to fully cure before I can finish them.

Never been this meticulous about removing sprue spurs and seams but the quality and small size of the pieces I feel calls for it, and it was ultimately very satisfying. The seams are relative minor, except maybe the rear fork.
3 May, 03:21
Martin Oostrom
No need to turn on the afterburner Tom!
3 May, 04:48
Tom ...
Martin, it was a slow work day...
3 May, 07:46
Peter Hardy
Looking pretty good Tom! How did you go with the join on the air box?
3 May, 08:44
Tom ...
Peter, good thing you mentioned that. I forgot about the air box so doing it now.

For relatively small seams I use generous amounts of thick CA, making sure to fill the gaps completely and fully cure, then use a sharp blade to carefully shave off the raised glue till it is nearly flush and then lots of scrapping and sanding, particularly if either side of the joint is not level to begin with.

For big gaps I go with 3M's Glazing Putty which is nasty to use (and apply) but sands down beautifully. Using it currently in my "Invisible Man" build and will shortly have some photos of it in action.

For in between sizes, where it's not worth dealing with the glazing putty, I either use "Perfect Plastic Putty" or baking soda soaked with thin CA. If doing the baking soda I generally have to finish with thick CA again as the baking soda doesn't always sand smooth.
3 May, 17:18
Peter Hardy
We got a fair bit of time so don't rush it Tom. Kyle's kit hasn't even arrived yet and Pete Muldoon want's to finish his current build. Take your time. (I have a Mercedes G4 covered with rock hard 2k clear to sand too)!
3 May, 23:12
Tom ...
No worries. I'm not racing. Going to be waiting to see what everyone else does anyway, and I have an invisible man to get on with. It's nice though to get all the mindless prep out of the way.
4 May, 01:27
Tom ...
Priming turned out well. Just a few pieces need minor going over again. Trying out Mr. Hobby's metal primer for the springs, which I originally got for priming PE parts. Not sure if it is any better or worse than the Tamiya surface primer.
4 May, 01:39
Kyle DeHart
Believe my kit my arrive tomorrow. Fingers crossed anyway. Looking forward to getting into it. Something different! Looking good Tom!
4 May, 02:56
Tom ...
Kyle, you won't be disappointed. Really nice kit.
4 May, 06:17
Looking really nice
4 May, 06:42
I used GSI metal primer for a long time, but it was very disappointing that it fell short of expectations every time.
So I looked for alternatives and did some experiments. (motorart.tistory.com/225)
I recommend 'Gaianotes Multiprimer' or 'Vallejo Mecha Primer' better than 'GSI Metal Primer'.
or Using a 'Vallejo Metal Varnish' as a primer also gives great results.
18 June, 07:48
Peter Hardy
That's an awful big can of primer for such a little tiny incy wincy minute pair of springs Tom!
18 June, 10:35


6 images
In progress
1:12 Monkey 125 (Tamiya 14134)

All albums

View all albums »