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PeTeR23
Peter Muldoon (PeTeR23)
AU
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Peter Muldoon added a new photoalbum.
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Project: Ferrari F50
1:24 Ferrari F50 (Tamiya 24296)1:24 Ferrari F50 Photo-Etched Parts (Hobby Design HD02-0063)
1 | 17. May, 09:03
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Peter Hardy Strewth! You sure you've never built a model before? Ok, dash is a disaster, lessons learned, next one will be a triumph! Love the seats but you will need to get some panel liner to do a 'pin wash' which will bring up details. Don't forget to apply a clear coat first though. Bloody impressed Pete, so much for my "all glue and fingerprints" prediction! What do I know?
14. June, 03:08
Chaz Gordon For future reference, tamiya acrylics are fairly easy to strip if you feel the need to start over. If fresh, they'll come off pretty easily with some isopropyl alcohol (if you can find any at the moment) else, soak the part in brake fluid for 30 minutes, then a couple of minutes in thick bleach, rinse under the tap and give it a quick scrub to get any bleach out of the grooves. Hey presto, clean plastic. The same process will strip the chrome off of chromed parts too, but thats probably a big step right now.

Welcome to SCM and to the hobby.

One other tip, Acryllics and Enamels often dont play well together, and clearcoating the finished piece with tamiya gloss spray varnish might cause some reactions as it is quite high in solvents. So always do a test first, grab a random plastic item, and combine the paints on it you plan to use. Allow a couple of days for it to cure, then try varnishing it, see what happens. The same goes for decals, always try a test run with a spare decal any time you use a new varnish brand or finish.
14. June, 04:12
Peter Muldoon Haha, thanks Peter. I can assure you there have been a lot of "all glue and fingerprints" moments throughout the process. A pin wash on the seats would look great. As you mentioned to me the other day, the fans could also do with a wash. Thanks for the tips Chaz. I'm trying to keep to the lacquer -> enamel -> acrylic rule as much as possible. I am currently Googling panel liners and washes. Seen a few videos. I'm wondering if I could get away with a thinned out Tamiya Smoke or flat black acrylic for pin wash on the seats. Would lay down a clear coat first for sure. The metal fans would have to be enamel though right? I may end up purchasing a bottle of Tamiya Panel Line Accent for that.

For the body (doors/panels) I was planning on using the liner as well as a thin marker similar to those Gundam pens. I've seen people use them before the primer, during the primer and after the colour coats so I am a little confused as to when I should be adding mine given that I am spraying the body with the Tamiya TS sprays and not an acrylic or enamel through an airbrush. I've already laid down my primer coats so if it's meant to happen before then I may have missed the boat. Putting panel lining on a painted model seems daunting though. I would hate for the enamel thinner to eat through to the lacquer finish. Maybe a clear coat over the body would help with this? But then would that have to be acrylic or can it be the TS clear spray? Then there are acrylic panel liners!! *Screams*
16. June, 00:58
Peter Hardy Pin washes go on last Pete.
16. June, 01:57
Chaz Gordon Peter M, it's a mine field to be sure. Metallics can be done with Acrylics too, unless you are looking for a real metal mirror finish like Alclads. And that is generally only Airbrushed. If you just want a silver or steel finish on small parts, you can't go much wrong with the Vallejo model air metallics (even for brushing) which are water based and easy to work with. They are also a bit cheaper than Tamiya and you don't get all the nasty build up around the rim as it's in a dropper bottle.

Lacquers, I definitely recommend the water based Varnish offerings such as Vallejo and Alclad Aqua, water based will not react with much underneath as long as it's fully cured (Including decals etc). Anything solvent or alcohol based runs a risk of interactions, sometimes even with same brand/range paints, it's about the chemistry of how a Lacquer differs from a Varnish

Lacquer actually melts the layers underneath, sometime right down to the plastic, and if all goes according to plan, creates a chemically bonded single entity consisting of plastic, paint and gloss (or matt) surface. Varnish acts more like a clear paint, and should be impervious to water once cured, but may be prone to damage by alcohols or solvents depending on the chemistry of the Varnish. (It's also easier to strip off and start again if it all goes wrong)

I've actually had Tamiya spray Lacquers soften Automotive spray primers to the point you could get the well cured primer colour rub off on your hand while the lacquer was wet.
16. June, 16:40
Spanjaard you can do panel lines with flory model washes, they are clay and water, usually, interact with nothing. easy to apply, easy to remove if you have to.... great stuff. i chose them after a turpentine wash reacted with the unprotected plastic of my NXR and almost kill the build completely
17. June, 00:26
Peter Muldoon Peter, okay cool I'll just try to be careful with it. Chaz, that info on the lacquers is really helpful and something I had been wondering a lot about. Spanjaard, I saw a video with those clay washes and thought it was a really cool way of doing it. Time to go shopping I think!

On a side note, my seatbelts and tubing arrived today so I can start to work on that too!
17. June, 13:08
Peter Hardy You are a lost cause on your first build Pete!
18. June, 07:00

June 14, 2020

Peter Muldoon and Chaz Gordon are now mates.
14. June, 08:59

May 17, 2020

Peter Muldoon started this item
17. May, 09:53
Peter Muldoon started this item
17. May, 09:01
Peter Muldoon started this item
17. May, 08:57
Peter Muldoon owns this item
17. May, 08:57
Peter Muldoon added a new project.
Albums: 3 with 99 images
1:24
In progress
1:24 Ferrari F50 (Tamiya 24296)1:24 Ferrari F50 Photo-Etched Parts (Hobby Design HD02-0063)
 
17. May, 08:47

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2020-05-17 08:47:51

2020-05-17 08:31:52

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