Bart Goesaert Resin isn't always better, but it hurts a bit (in the wallet) when it's better to adapt the real parts then use the resin
25. February 2019, 16:53
Bernhard Schrock You are welcome & thx for nice comments.
fj55mike. You are right! The warped an "clobbered together" upper wing with his horrible reproduced fabric surface is the reason that I'm waited more than 10years with this project. I think the Duck with all his needed modifications pushed the Gulfhawk to the top of the idea-stash . Furthermore Ironworks Is my favorite airplane manufacturer...
25. February 2019, 17:31
Bernhard Schrock Today I worked on the cowling: I separated it from the casting and airbrushed the first layer of resin primer. I already knew that the quality of this part (as of others) is below standard but after the first layer of primer I realized the full extent of the nightmare. It seems that somebody used superglue, a huge brush, 240 sanding paper and a VERY rough file. Conclusion: the cowling is useless. I am going to rebuild everything based on the kit part.
4. March 2019, 20:44
Bart Goesaert seems more like standard resin casting when you say it like that... good to sharpen the scratchbuild techniques... but sometimes I wonder if some manufacturers have no remorse with regards to what they are asking and what they deliver...
5. March 2019, 07:32
Alec K I have some old resin kits of subjects that I am excited to build, but every time I open the box, I cry and go back to plastic
5. March 2019, 12:17
Patrick Hagelstein Yep! Opened a newly bought resin kit (Blackdog) to find out that the kit parts were copied with some strips of Evergreen added to them. I can do better than that...
Bill Gilman Too bad on the resin, but you've done great work so far (as we've come to expect). Can't wait for the orange...
5. March 2019, 15:49
Bernhard Schrock Hello Mates, you are right, as always. I often looked at expensive resin parts and I think they are hardly better than the original. What I also see critically is the white metal landing gear which corresponds 1:1 to the kit parts. Supposedly it should be more firm but in my eyes that is just not true. The only advantage I see it is that you can glue it on crooked may and afterwards can bend into shape. On the other hand there is quite a big disadvantage: you can attach small parts to the leg much more difficult than in the plastic original. It is also hard to drill holes (0.3 mm) in the leg to fasten little wire piece to connect brake lines. A good example of the firmness of plastic landing gear is my Kaman Seasprite.
5. March 2019, 20:30
Alec K The only experience with metal landing gear I had was when I tried to use it on my P-61 build. Besides soft detail, the metal was just too soft for my taste. So, I used the plastic in the box. It's still happily standing today
6. March 2019, 04:56
Bernhard Schrock Yesterday I had a problem how to do 18 identical bulges for the cowling. Ant not a whole day later the problems is solved: l will get 18 absolutely identical but 3D printed bulges!!! It is always good to know the right people! Thx Axel!!!!
6. March 2019, 18:07
Bill Gilman 3D printing is the future of this hobby. There will come a day when you pick the subject, scale, options, markings etc. and it will be 3D printed on demand and shipped to you. I don't think this will happen tomorrow, as the technology to duplicate the quality of traditional injection moulded plastic or cast resin is not there yet, but it's coming. I contributed to a GoFund Me type project for a 3D printed 1:72 Yak-9. I'm quite anxious to see how it turns out. OK, off with my Nostradamus hat...
Hanno Kleinecke The printed parts turned out very good, super job on that cowling !
15. March 2019, 21:15
Alec K Curious how you determined and executed the proper spacing for the bulges on the cowling?
16. March 2019, 11:47
Patrick Hagelstein That shouldn't be too hard. Circumfencial it is a line at a certsain distance from the cowling front. Placing it on a level surface and putting a pencil on thst height creates a circumfencial line. On that line you can either mark the spots by dividing the circumfence by either distance or degrees.
Bernhard Schrock Thx Mates. Patrick: you are right. I used a small stripe of Tamiya tape placed around the cowling and a circle with two needles to determine the distance between the bulges.
Yesterday I applied the decals (excellent quality) and had only a little bit trouble with one of the large wing elements.
bughunter Bernhard, you created a beauty I have not really like this brownish red up to pic51, but the final pictures are just perfect. Was the color change due to the final clear coat and/or the white balance of the pictures? And I have to mention that: you are the true master of rigging of the 1920/1930 machines
Treehugger Looks really nice I think. Tip: ship and airplane propellers can easily be sanded "sharper" if one is a little careful.
24. March 2019, 11:30
Hanno Kleinecke What a beautiful little red „fatso bird" ! Lovely work, Bernhard !
24. March 2019, 20:15
Bernhard Schrock Hi guys. Thank you for the feedback. I'm glad that you like this little hot rod. 1000 PS for such small plane is a lot of power!
The brownish red is the result of very fast&quick WIP pictures and my lamp with 2700 K. Obviously my smartphone don't like this "color of light"...
For the pictures of the finished model I use usually 2 other lamps with 4000K and auto white balance setup for my stone age Nikon 995. The result is much better.