Steven Van Dyck As usual in my builds, a lot of wheels have to be cleaned up. I also posted some comparison views of the hull and tracks to a 13cm broad front view I found online. The ruler shows the degree of deviation.
29. July, 20:38
Slavo Hazucha That´s a lot of wheels & work... Especially considered only 25% (as I understand the the running gear´s layout) will be - partially - visible on the outer sides... looking forward to see what devilish levels of detail you´ll unravel on this thing...
30. July, 11:43
Steven Van Dyck Under supervision of multifocal eyes I started to sand the suspension parts until I went dark and I had to come in. Various sanding materials were used to remove the seam in a hollow or to remove burrs.
30. July, 21:19
Steven Van Dyck I had to scratch a piece of bogie I had lost on the lawn. I also decided to adapt the DS tracks manually to the correct width, be it a lengthy job to perform...
3. August, 11:35
Steven Van Dyck One of 4 track parts corrected, the fit on the plan is now OK.
5. August, 00:43
Steven Van Dyck The lower halves of the tracks are trimmed and provided with the dreaded track horns. I didn't loathe this like some of the reviewers did, it took me less than a day for the first, visible half. I even consider finishing the invisible side more or less the same. I first thought I could trim the other 4 lengths from the outside in. That is impossible because of the openings between rubber blocks. If I want to tend the lower 4 without having to glue them to the sprockets, they have to be trimmed inside out.
The hull has to be trimmed correspondingly, but the engine hatches have correct proportions. This means the split will be shaped like a Y following the engine armor. To correct the length I will have to remove a section after the first hatches. The angled armour is displaced a few millimeters to the outside, probably to make it possible to broaden the outer sponsons. This will be hard to correct.
6. August, 21:57
Steven Van Dyck Another problem is the width of the bogies. Because of the exaggerated track width, these bogies have an oversized bearing arm. Of course I had just glued all road wheels firmly in place. Only a handful came off clean, the other had to be torded loose, breaking the axle. That can be replaced. Now all bearing arms are sawn off and reset shorter to the hull.
The under hull is also trimmed on both sides, creating the right hull width. This is easy because there is no underhull detail at all. Only the transmission housing should be spared, but it has to be moved 9,5 mm to the front.
7. August, 20:56
Steven Van Dyck Each of the 16 bogies is thinned 1 mm and the sprocket hole is moved 9,5 mm to the front on both sides. Due to incorrect interval between bogies (it shouldn't be the same distance thrice, you don't have to stare long to a side view picture to see this) all of the geometry for the suspension parts, rolles included, should be razed and replaced. I also thinned the entire length of the sponsons 1mm and discovered a future problem with the crane support positions. All will be soon replicated on the right sponson, this time before I fixed the bogies to ease sawing and sanding.
Steven Van Dyck 2 new boxes are added, with some smaller objects like locks, the 2 visor covers and the antenna.
1. August, 20:50
Palo M Very inspiring, should start my Meng Shilka, too. I don't think it will be up to this level, unfortunately. Very nice work on the PE parts.
1. August, 21:55
Choppa Nutta Full detail ahead and don't spare the horses !!
That is a lot of PE for one tank .... and a lot of patience to go with it too
You always seem to do interesting and highly detail worked Steven !!
You must have spent nearly a 120 Euro's on this project thus far looking at all those upgrades and the kit itself,
still though, I imagine this is going to keep you busy for a while
1. August, 22:29
Steven Van Dyck Thanks, guys, don't let this build hold you back if it would mean an extra Shilka in the newslist! The extras in this build are withering compared to some of my latest additions for future projects. As we speak, a royal Griffon sd.Kfz.7/2 PE set is coming this way at the customs office, following another set to make the flatbed sides (and I still consider to replace the DS front tires) and a Lionroar barrel I bought for an old Tamiya 37mm. Literally half of that model will be covered in brass. If you count the weighty Nuts and Bolts edition in, it easily passes the € 200 threshold. Another project consists of a Thunder Scammel Pioneer with a Valentine loaded on the trailer. The Valentine is already quite upgraded with a Voyagerset and extra plastic tracks, but the Scammell appears harder to improve. Various Resicast possibilities and a recently edited book that is impossible to come by. I'm also stocking up my 1/350 ships builds and taking over some stuff offered by friends. This all seemed over the top until some months ago, now it is getting harder to find things still in stock and I'm happy that I still have enough stuff for about 5 years of continuous projects...
1. August, 23:11
Palo M Wow, that's a lot of brass! Some time ago, I realized how aftermarket kits make me enjoy a model much more, so I upgraded most of my stash. Don't want to find out during a build that my preferred aftermarket kits are no longer available. I don't think I've got even close to €200, though!
2. August, 06:04
Steven Van Dyck I have one kit that I fear I will never get the PE set for. A few years ago the Dragon Saladin that I had just bought and wanted to start got a beautiful Voyager PE set. We got about 12 very shiny preview pictures. Ever since, it remained in expectation on the Voyager site, in a list with projects that is refreshed monthly. I presume the moderate reviews for the kit kept them from releasing it, but why leaving them on the list? They even edited a lights set I promptly bought, and I have the DEF wheels. Another set from Inside The Armour seems depleted now. British Armoured Car Saladin..Voyager Model PE35786, 1:35)
2. August, 08:34
Choppa Nutta Maybe write to Voyager and ask them to send you a PE set Saladin ?
You never know, you might get lucky
Steven Van Dyck Today, the decals were applied wit no damage at all, but even with Daco Sol on them they don't fully adapt to the rivety surface. I may have to remove some decalfilm.
9. July, 21:00
Steven Van Dyck I removed the triangular decals and the film between the tail lettering stencils. This left a lot of primer damage, worsening while I was respraying the triangles. Some parts I had to redo twice because of this. I also painted the roof black and white. Everything was finished with some post-shading, for the yellow RLM04 I used very thin red shadow. The rotor is reproduced with the trim vane on it. I think I succeeded in repairing most of the damage so I can move on to the weathering stage.
13. July, 20:44
Steven Van Dyck A filter for allied tanks and a dry-brushing with Vallejo Field Grey make Huey less dull. Then, Vallejo Matt Polyurethane varnish removes the shine and light up the model again. Cracks have appeared in the door windows. For once I don't mind, this chopper has gone down anyway, but it's not a first with Tamiya clearparts.
19. July, 22:44
Steven Van Dyck A pit is made for the landing skis to let the Huey sink in a bit. I first prepared the field to make some crops, but this would have been too time-consuming for the water gel to harden. So I just smeared a mix of AK Transparent gel and Swamp Mud over it, followed by short grass fibers and then the Huey was pushed in. The excess grass will be removed later. The other fields are filled with Swamp gel and prepared like I had imagined for the larger field, just without the drilling. A Historex stork is added from the spare box, luckily it already had some primer. Reference pics are from centaursinvietnam.org/History/ihistoryEqAir3.html .
20. July, 22:12
Steven Van Dyck The other vehicles are fixed to the base. The truck I pinned down, the jeep I only glued. Then, the Huey is further detailed at the front side. The doors should have been workable, but glue creeped in the lower hinges and they were fixed, offering a good internal view.
21. July, 21:00
Steven Van Dyck The M60 guns get some attention from Eduard. I'm also adding a Tamiya bike I scored somewhere, with some Aber PE I scored on top of it. The wheels are going to look a lot better, but the bike will look a bit dilapidated when I'm through with it.
25. July, 22:07
Steven Van Dyck The bike got a bit grainy from priming, but I will be adding rust too, so it should be no problem.
Steven Van Dyck I had to paint the wheelbays before assembling the fuselage halves, because of some areas very hard to get at. a small PE part has to be fixed to the doors, and not to the fuselage as in the manual.
10. May, 00:13
Slavo Hazucha A pity with the OOB R-27's - the Hobby Boss AA-sprues I had so far were actually rather good, GWH too...
As for the wheelbays, are you sure about the red front bay? The sunken portions on the main ones can be red on a Su-33 (the flat parts going back along the intakes/engines should be grey though - but I have never seen a full red front wheelbay on a Flanker - doors yes, but not the actual bay.
Just mentioning... The details on the door insides do look really nice!
10. May, 15:28
Steven Van Dyck I didn't pay enough attention to the color markings, it said RLM65 for the wheelbay. I'll respray it grey first and then blue. Thanks for the remark. I will be comparing the R27 with my new ones for accuracy, they come with the pylons too and there I saw some photo etch parts missing in the kit:
I'm also having a hard time joining both halves seamlessly, took me a few hours to glue and compress.
Steven Van Dyck I did a review of the Eduard Alamos, the Res-Kit Sorbtsiya and the Plusmodel ladder. All seems very well. The main reason why you should replace the Alamo rockets from the kit, is the large amount of decals (100+!) that is provided with Eduard. Also, the fins are not particularly thinner, but the edges are noticeably filleted. This looks slimmer. The ECM pods have the riveting completely different from the kit and I seem to notice they should indeed be raised in stead of engraved. The ladder will be a nice color mark on the finished model. Then I built the landing gear, which is fine but completely misguided in the manual. I think there are about 4 errors in one step and also it's completely unclear where to fit the parts, so this has to be compared to reference pics. The tail end did not fit smooth, so this is solved with plasticard and will be sanded later. The canopy is in the process of being polished after removing the moulding seam. The last pictures show an old Italeri Su-34 in 1/72 I revisited.
14. May, 22:56
Steven Van Dyck The DreamModel vector thrust pipes are constructed. It was really a joy to build. Perfect fit, easy locating of the parts and no damage while bending.
17. May, 01:32
Steven Van Dyck The engine insides are now tackled This is really the hardest bit, everything has to be aligned multiple times before it can be glued. The instructions are not clear as to where the PE should be connected. I hope I did it right. The wings are also constructed, should I save space and bend them upward or not?
20. May, 16:28
Steven Van Dyck I built the Plusmodel ladder. It looks OK to me, though on pictures it shows up a little skinnier. Once cleaned up it builds very fast and sturdy. Bad news is that the Res-kit Sorbtsiyas do not reach the level of the Kinetic ones, so they are dumped. The big issue is the wrong pointy cone shape on the extremities and the absence of a small air inlet.
23. May, 10:09
Slavo Hazucha The ladder may be just slightly on the chubby side, but it still looks good and is not "2D" as a PE would be... Good question with the wings, I guess it depends on the situation you want to depict with the ladder on & co... I personally like the additional flaps segments on the 33 fully deployed, quite a difference to other Flankers... Looking forward to see the nozzles in color, the metalwork looks really impressive
Steven Van Dyck I finished the Crab on friday. A few hours later it entered the contest at BSMC, but today it proved unlucky. Next time better, that will probably be at KMK. I adorned the wooden base with pictures of the Overloon War Museum example. I also put a dusty spray over the front of the tank, which I would find normal for the amount of soil it throws up. It probably cost me some points compared to all those colorful camos on the table, so be it.
2. June 2019, 20:33
Lenny V Looks stunning Steven! I admire your patience, it really shows in the finished model.
Steven Van Dyck Construction is not straightforward because of some errors made in the manual and some pins to be removed, but details are great, like the tyre dimensions on both halves of the wheel. Care should be taken to align the torsion bars and axles.
4. April, 23:46
Steven Van Dyck The Masterbox tracks are completely assembled in 3 days. In fact, I overassembled them, because you get 210 links and you only need 182. Luckily, they are easily disassembled. A remark I can make is that the Hong wheels don't fit easily between the guard horns. I rolled one wheel over both tracks to bend the horns a bit outward. This can be due to Hong or to Masterbox, but it would be a lot harder to sand the wheels. Maybe if you saw them in half, removing half a mm of material and glue the halves together again to not lose the rim detail?
Treehugger Ah, the hinges are sort of wrong on the molded kit. (photo 36) Or, is the illustration wrong perhaps? Sort of looks like a photo, but also not.
6. October 2019, 09:47
Steven Van Dyck This is one of those typical military manual illustrations, but further was a picture showing the same construction. And then there are the Voyager parts that will only fit if you remove the plastic. Also compare to this Prime Portal walkaround: [img1]
6. October 2019, 11:51
Steven Van Dyck I had to change two of the lion Roar fender plates to longer ones in aluminium, to make them fit on the hull.
4. November 2019, 23:47
Steven Van Dyck I let this linger for a while, but now it should at least get built until I get my new paint jars. The ribs on the Lionroar fenders are fine, maybe too fine, because I felt like a character out of a comic strip glueing all these tiny bolt heads. [img1] At least they have the correct angle to the hull, unlike Eduard so probably the Italeri M24 hull is a few degrees off. After the ribs were all connected, I tried the Lionroar fender corner profiles but they are too brittle to use on a tank fender so I made my own.
Steven Van Dyck Lionroar seems not have copied the plans of the fenders very correctly, but they at least have the right sand shield height. They did not have the inside edges either, so I scratched these. The hinges were a tedious job and I almost mirrored the second part, discovring just in time that this is not made like that. The fender distal pieces only fit at the rear, so I will have to bend something myself at the front. Finally I added the hex heads but they are not abundant enough, I still need 70 to complete the fenders and I have only half that number.
17. April, 23:48
playtime 222 Preacher! Every AFV builder making tracks from links and pins
Steven Van Dyck Thanks again! Today, the dinos were washed. The triceratops got some standard NATO washes, the raptors were rinsed with a homemade brew of blue and black enamel. Then the eyes were colored with Revell 92. I decided to fix the triceratops to the pigmented base with 2 screws, that had to be located precisely at the spots were they could remain invisible. The raptors will have to be sprayed matt now.
Patrick Hagelstein Steven, you did put a clear coat over it, right? So it actually scratched through both the blue and the clear coat?
1. March, 15:42
Steven Van Dyck It happened at the extremities of the tanks, but also in a few spots on the underside of the wings. If the blue paint did not adhere well, the clear coat would not improve the matter. Now I just brushed some metallic paint over the chipping to simulate wear. I finished the Mirage paint with some Vallejo matt clear coat.
1. March, 19:04
Steven Van Dyck The undercarriage could now be attached, together with the ordnance. The Mirage will be on MKB Happening this sunday, but it's become very close to a tailsitter, so I have to fix it to a base.
4. March, 21:50
Steven Van Dyck The Mirage is finished, sadly its plaster base shows considerable hair fracture due to the cardboard bottom deforming while getting moist and being stressed while redressing this deformation. Even the wood frame broke, needing a complicated repair method with Wolfcraft clamps.
8. March, 23:44
Augie Lovely Mirage III on the stress cracks, weather them in.. make them look like they cracked (can and does happen)
8. March, 23:56
Patrick Hagelstein Nifty way of clamping! For small scales (1/72 and 1/48) I had good results with plastic card. Take some very rough sandpaper and drag that across to mimic the concrete surface. Then carve in the joints with a scribing tool. No humidity involved whatsoever.
Steven Van Dyck That means, if erected then the height would be also 70 cm. Now imagine somebody building it with a rocket leaving the tube.
1. February, 18:04
Thomas Wirsching One is for sure: with all the aftermarket stuff for it you will get poor
1. February, 18:09
Ingo F @Steven: Two years ago i had an mad idea to scale up the Zvezda kit to 1:35 and scratchbuild it. Glad that i droped it after i found out how much space i need for it.
1. February, 18:23
Vesa-Pekka Palmu The topol-M is even slightly longer than the first generation topol of the zvedna kit..
2. February, 17:19
Chris I added it both times. It's in Trumpeter's 2021 catalogue. When I first added it, someone changed the photo to the fake one from a few years ago. I didn't re-add the listing until now because I didn't know about the fake listing from before, and thought maybe Trumpeter cancelled the project.
3. February, 03:18
Steven Van Dyck So they don't have a box-art yet? The fake one seemed doubtful because it didn't focus on one TEL, like a Trumpeter box would. I also wonder if there is any news about the Famo plans they had last year.
3. February, 06:06
Ingo F As usual, Trumpeter put some real pictures as a placeholder for the box-art.
3. February, 12:23
Michael Valentan In the catalog they already have a boxart. and i will get one of this cool Vehicle...saw it years ago for real in St. Petersburg and fell in love...
19. February, 09:59
February 18, 2020
Steven Van Dyck I always wonder how spelling errors can make it to the prime position on the boxart.
Tom Yep, it will have gone past several pairs of eyes and no-one saw it. As a writer/editor, I always tell myself to slow down, read, re-read, and re-read again. Some things don't pop out until the third reading
Steven Van Dyck The results are shown. It looks comparable to the base gel. I see very tiny air bubbles, but these are not visible more than half a metre away. Now some further detailing, I already finished the ship's wake.
16. January, 23:48
Bart Teunis Steve question did you form a base (the form and the waves) before you placed the gel ?
Steven Van Dyck Thank you. I wanted 4 Wildcats on Yorktown, but some modifications were necessary for the wheelbays. The WEM Enterprise set has nothing on it for Wildcats, but the Corsairs wheels can be turned into a nice retractable wheel set.
19. January, 10:24
Steven Van Dyck The Wildcats got their decals, weathering and a matt coat (not as matt as I imagined). I also made a nameplate out of the Yorktown one and an old CVN nameplate I had. The lettering for Hammann is scratch.
Steven Van Dyck Apparently i never made an album for this project, that was on hold for almost 6 years. I had drilled extra portholes in the destroyer's hull, but these were not needed for the timeframe it was depicted in. This week, I corrected that issue. The first part of this build can be found on the Ship's forum at shipmodels.info/mws_forum/vi..;t=154909&hilit=hammann.
22. November 2019, 10:22
Steven Van Dyck Both ships are painted partially, first with grey Tamiya paint to primer the PE and the with Lifecolor. Now they are masked for the secand camo colors. Hammann was hardest with its horizontal surface deck blue restrictions.
29. November 2019, 17:13
Steven Van Dyck The ship's camo is painted and a layer of Pledge used to protect the paint for the next steps.
2. December 2019, 21:04
Steven Van Dyck The railing for both ships is added after painting. I looked for a better seabase, it's more spacious now.
8. December 2019, 22:14
Steven Van Dyck While unpacking my ESM special prize for Princeton, I also found some time to cast the water base for Yorktown and Hammann. I thought to use aluminum foil for wave shaping, but it caused too many bubbles and was abandoned for a more classical method. Then, some Mig Deep Oceans completed the preparations for today.
11. December 2019, 22:43
Steven Van Dyck The weathering of the hulls is done with washes for rust, grime and oil. Hammann's boot topping was only Vallejo black, it got scraped off but was quickly repainted. The deck is airbrushed with two wood tones, first red brown and then light sand. The boats got a coat of red brown and a light sand interior.
Steven Van Dyck Thanks, Dave. The project is finished now, I added some Wildcats and figures from two different set to have about 50 sailors on the two ships. I detailed the Yorktown deck to show all textures. After 8 years, it can finally rest in my showcase.
25. January, 02:11
January 18, 2020
Steven Van Dyck I noticed that the SCM download for the instructions for this product displays only the pages with an even number. I have the set, should I scan the odd ones and send them over? And which format?