The ENTEX 1/16 scale Thomas Flyer. 1910.

The 'Box Art' is fair, but the flash and overkill on the gold coated items is just too much. Flash all over every part and no colour recommendations are made, so research is vital if a fair rendition is to be achieved. 

The instructions are done in such a way that your either a mechanic or you were a driver of the same type represented here. 

I got the red paint to show on the external valve springs by giving them six coats of gloss Tamiya red. 

Wah. ! Who. ? Where. ?  

The magneto and carburetor are not exactly true in looks, but as you will never see all this detail, there is no loss really. 

This 'seam line' on the exhaust manifold is actually part of the casting process. 

There is brass and copper fittings all over the place. Fun to do, but only if you can have the engine cover open. 

This is the red cable supplied with the kit. Just enough to do all the things it is used for in the build. 

I would like to have been creative enough to make spark plugs that the red cable was attached to, but this will have to do. 

As can be seen here. The raised panel line right next to the rivets had to be removed, as I found that this brass covering on the edges of the 'fenders' never happened. 

The painting of the gold first worked out to be a bad idea, as too much paint on top of the gold didn't let me get a good separation/demarcation line and looked really shabby when I pulled off the masking tape I covered the gold paint with.. 

Look closely and you will see the gold was not completely covered by the green paint and a 'bleed' out happened and I had to make the decision to strip it all off and start over again with a new approach. 

This set of panel lines were finally improved by rubbing them down with a dry cotton tip to smooth out the excess gold you see here to end up with a super smooth and better result than the original method I tried. 

After laying out some lengths of the ultra thin masking tape on a sheet of glass, the gold paste was applied to the tape using a cotton bud. Using only a minuscule amount of the true metal paste, as it stretches out a long way with excellent coverage. Once the past is dry, ( a couple of minutes), using a dry cotton tip, gently buff to a sheen that looks like hand painted pin striping. once all the paint has been buffed, you can remove the excess paste from the glass either side of the tape with a dry cotton bud. 

The excess paint left over from the original application of the paste has been removed here, letting me see exactly what material I have to work with. 

Under the sheet of glass I used as a super clean surface for the tape strips, I used a sheet of black paper that enabled the tape to be seen clearly and allowed accurate measuring and cutting. SO. This tape actually replaces the pin stripe that was removed. 

So far.........................so good. 🙂 

Mr Peter Hardy gave me this little device, and it's perfect for preventing these small width tapes from getting covered in dust and crap that we gather all over our work space.