Tamiya Repsol MotoGp bike
This method was made redundant once I found some ultra thin masking tape. 🙂
I lost count of how many times I stripped and repainted these pipes. But the blessing was that the acrylic paints all disolved with methylated spirits and no damage to the actual plastic. 🙂
Sorry about the repition but the point I guess I am trying to make here is that it may take many attempts to get a good result. That is why I used only Alclad and acrylics, as they can be removed with methylated spirits. 👍
Getting there. hahahaha 🙂
To further explain what the function of the sponge is. The decal will NOT stick to the sponge, and you can exert as much pressure as you like and make sure the decal, once soft, will conform to the iregularaties of the parts structure.
Masking off these parts for the eventual airbrushing, I use "Parafilm'M' ". as it will take no pressure at all to score the line you need to cut to effect what you need to remove so that the painting is exact.
The swing arm, before it has it's polished metal look is all done with "Alclad". This is the primer 'undercoat' of gloss black laquer.
The alclad 'polished aluminium' looks really good, and can be gently polished to remove the 'dust' of the metal parts that comprises the paints metal look/effect.
Just the 'prep' stage of undercoating the engine parts that I will attach at the last second. This will prevent a lot of wearing away of the paint from all the handling that will follow.
I failed to mention that to help with the adhesian of the film to the small parts, I mix the Microscale 'set' with some 'clear fix', eliminating any chance, once dried, of the decal breaking free.
The main frame halves need just a dab of liquid glue to effect a strong bond at the joins.
The front fender is a brilliant gloss black. For this result, I used the Alclad gloss black primer, as it dries rock hard and can be polished lightly to remove any blemish that may happen from the handling when installing it on the forks.
This is the gloss finish the alclad primer gives you. The metal component of the '2 pak' will look like the real thing with MINIMAL metal paint is applied. NO OVERKILL.
All internal surfaces of the cowling and wind shield is black undercoat.
Dull alloy is what it will eventually be.
The cowling inside, to be matt clear painted yet.
The more perfect you can get the gloss finish of the alclad primer. The better will be the result with the metal paints that come last.
Can you see me in the reflection. ? hehehehe
Here you can see the 'dust' of the metal paint particals on the surface of the frame. This can be gently removed with a cotton glove.
I am SO pleased with the result.
FINISHED. ! Now to attach all the pretty lace and pearls for this girl. hehehehe 🙂
The fairing decals have all conformed to where thay are supposed to go, and I am more than pleased with the overall look and result. 🙂
Now we are at the 'close up' stage, having finished all the fine decals and screws to hold the exhaust in place.
The hydraulic fluid that is used for the clutch and the brake fluid are a mild green in colour. I replicated that by using clear plastic tubing and sucking some clear green Tamiya acrylic into the tube to stan the inside and when ready, cut to size and bo
After many attempts at getting the paint demarcation as good as I know how, I have come to the point of "NO MORE". The decals were applied and all is finished.
As I am such a big fan of Marc Marquez, I just HAD to get it righ. The masking of the curved red at the bottom of the cowling was THE most difficult.
I have, many times, painted and stripped the exhaist pipes to get as close as I can to what the weld marks look like on the real beast, and attempted to eliminate all signs of the handling I had to do.
The carbon discs were interesting to paint, adding some silver to the outer surface to replicate the surface as closely as possible to the real thing.
This is actually the third model of number 93, having not been happy with all the mistakes I made with the first two. Needless to say, I am most pleased with the final result.
The clutch and disc brake lines I coloured with clear yellow to give the impression of the type of hydraulic fluid that was used.
I am proud of not leaving any finger marks, as it is always a problem that is un noticed until one says. "Done", and then we see all the marks we try so hard to avoid.
Everything done here was with a tooth pick.
In the way of detail, this kit lacks nothing. It's all there, and all you have to do is get busy with a tooth pick and some well mixed paint. 🙂
I was considering the carbon fible decal for the front fender, but opted for the high gloss black pint. Note the wet tyres, bought seperately.
The 'twill' weave carbon decals are made by Tamiya, just for these 1/12 scale kits, car and bike.
It certainly adds that effect of being a specalist motor sport structure.
I bought the spray can TS-96 'Fluro Orange' and decanted the paint into a small glass 'trst tube' so that I could 'de-gas' the paint before putting it through my Iwata 'eclipse' at a low pressure and spraying enough to create the high gloss effect that is
Because this paint dries almost immediatly, I will set up the masking tape to be removed almost immmediatly so that there is no jagged edge left behind. Creating a smooth edge, as you see here. a fopar. 🙁
I found I made a basic mistake here, painting parts seperately, but when these need to be assembled, parts rubbed and spoiled it completely. I had to repaint it all, after removing the paint with methylated spirits.
The fluro orange looks out of place really, but once it all comes together, the effect is quite spectacular. 'bright'. :-O
I used the masks supplied by Tamiya, and cut perfectly with a new scalpel blade, the do the job perfectly.
THIS is THE most difficult part of all the painting you will do on this kit. GREAT care and a perfect cut on the mask helps, but a keen eye and a tooth pick helps.
Bit by bit, it is a tedious process, but, if your not in a rush, then slow is the go, 🙂
The wheels turned out as good as I had planned. But the decals were the exception, and a perfect result was obtained.
Even the wheel makers branding decals were a dream.
Carbon discs are a challenge, getting the two types of composition to look the part. The centre of the hub will not be seen, so don't think I have messed it up. 🙂
This was FUN. hehehehe The tape is the thinnest you can buy, and is ideal for the creating of the dual colour demarcation of the welding effects that the exhaust system actually looks like.
All external fairings and fittings are finished. The decals are a joy to apply, and as always, great care and patience is needed here, plus the sol and set liquids.
I am more than happy with the exhaust colours.
All paint colours were spray cans, all decanted to make it work better out of an air brush, once the paint has been de-gassed.
The decals are all a bit brittle and care and patience is a must.
ALL brake, throttle, clutch cables are the thinnest I could find, and they are in fact, "Fly Fishing" tubing that I have inserted into the standard supplied piping, creating a 'fitting' that will be in scale.
The smallest decal is this one. The number 93 for the safety bar.
I coloured some clear tubing to replicate the fluid used for the brake and clutch fluids.
The dust particals are from the gloves I use when handling the kit a lot, and they will be removed with some 'tac' tape.
The use of ultra thin black plastic tubing for the rear brake line is more to 'scale' for my likings.
The "Rain light" and the telementry unit that sends and receives info on all aspects of the engine's performance.
The 'carbon fibre' decal did not go on as well as I had hoped. 🙁
The "Knee grips" attached to the tank that helps the riders to stay on the bike while rubbing their heads and elbows on the track. !!! :-O
Just like the real deal. 🙂
This is, the Tamiya carbon fibre decals. Fine 'Twill' weave.
This is the 'fluro orange from the spray can that was decanted to degas for a while before I put it through the air brush.
This is a totally different colour from the previous posted images.
This is the way I ended up getting the welded section colous. the width is .04 0f a MM.
This is all the external parts that will have the metal buttonhead screws set in place
The 'effect' may not be to everyone's liking, but it will not be all that evident, as the fairing and side pannels will hide most of it.
For all the tubing, I used the ultra thin black plastic tubing that is used by fly fishermen, as it is more 'to scale' than the heavy thick tubing supplied with the kit.
Please excuse the bits of fluff, but all the detail here is finished, including the silver of all the nuts and bolts.
The carbon fibre really looks like it is real. I love the effect.
Except for the huge phillips head screw, the rest looks fine
The engine data transmitter and receiver with the LED red rain light.
Comments
9 January 2018, 09:05
Peter HardyKerry I have just spent half an hour going through these photos. I have learned more in that 30 minutes than the last three years. Thank you!
9 January 2018, 10:01
Kerry COXPeter and Ronald. Thank you so much for your encouraging words. 👍
Peter, what was it that you found that helped you mate. ?
I am always fascinated to know how I have been a help. 🙂
9 January 2018, 21:14
Peter HardyI'll PM you later today if I can Kerry, boss expects something for all the money he throws at me so I had better get out from behind this computer!
9 January 2018, 22:53
Carl BoehmSpectacular work so far... Look forward to seeing the finished product! I've often eyed this kit off and figured if i see one for a good price I'll get it.
Young Marquez is certainly one talented rider and it's been great to watch him grow. I wouldn't call myself a fan but I'm certainly a Honda fan so like to see their riders do well. Can't wait for the 2018 championship to fire up next month!
11 February 2018, 01:03
Kerry COXCarl. Thanks mate. The model is actually finished now, but I will be leaving the fairing off as part of the dio/display plinth that shows fully, all the engine and bare bones look. I have done some extra detailing I will edit on the images here, explaining what I have done and with what. 🙂 That is, the last 30 or so of the ones I have posted here. 👍
11 February 2018, 03:49
Kerry COXYes mate. One fully covered up and the other as a segmented disassembled unit. 🙂
11 February 2018, 07:41
Murad ÖZERKerry big huge thanks for all your time and effort taking those pix and captioning them. a civvy modelling illiterate as i am, these are gold! 👍
11 February 2018, 19:34
Kerry COXMurad. Thank you my friend. 🙂 I always try to explain what your seeing and it helps make the build more personal and interesting. Besides, LOL, I am a bit of a 'show off'. hahahaha 🙂 👍
11 February 2018, 23:27
Spanjaardsomehow, i did not commented in the beauty before. excellent, as usual 🙂
7 March 2018, 11:21
Kerry COXThank you Kim. 🙂 It was one of the more challenging kits by Tamiya, especially as all the paint colours, brilliant white, fluro red, fluro orange had to be decanted and let sit for a couple of days to let the propellant gas escape, otherwise, micro bubbles can screw up a paint job in a flash when the paint is put through an airbrush if used straight out of the can.
7 March 2018, 22:25
Peter HardySee Kerry, that's why we need you! How the hell would I know stuff like that otherwise without tears being shed first!
8 March 2018, 00:41
Kerry COXI have done the tears mate, on many an occasion, and this Honda is actually the second of three I built, the first two I assumed I was doing the right thing, thinking that all bike kits are the same and I screwed up, especially the paint job, wrong shade of orange and red. But I was determined to 'get it right' for this one, and I am still waiting for the button head screws fro the fairing and side panels that have the single notch cut on the top, from RB Motion. A car parts detailing mob in the US that does upgrade parts for all scales of cars. This paint job is with the lighter orange I thought was close to the factory shade, but, I was wrong. But I will add some images of the actual third build and you will see a marked difference. Totally different.
8 March 2018, 05:46
Peter HardyHey your tears are ok, mine on the other hand... I bet if you didn't tell me about the wrong shade I wouldn't have noticed. Your on another level Kezza, but pleeeeeeeease keep them coming!
8 March 2018, 08:56
Kerry COXI am on a challenging kit at the moment. The 1960 kit of Tommy Ivo's "Showboat" dragster. Four V-8's driving four wheels. Just a nitemare of pipes and velocity stacks with chrome all over the place. I first built it when I was a kid and finally, I got one from BNA in Melbourne. 🙂
8 March 2018, 09:57
Peter HardySounds like a head Spinner! Don't remember the car. I remember the tank dragster and the craze with the wheelie cars. Sorry, but I have another story. I delivered a couple of American rails for the Summer Nationals one year to the old Surfers Paradise, bunch of American gear heads Timmy Heimer might remember but I don't. They were two of the top three in the US that year. Nice fellas in the crews, never met the drivers. I took the cars down from Brizzy and another guy took the supplies and parts. A 40foot container full of engine blocks and tyres. Sorry, tires.
8 March 2018, 10:14
Kerry COXI have been experimenting with the 'Alclad' system of paints that if done with great care, (no finger marks), I can Mr Muscle the chrome off and prepare the treated parts ready for the Alclad, I should be able to really clean off all the burrs and join marks to make it look smooth. This is why I am getting the micro bolt heads so I can snip off the kit bolt heads and replace the ones on the diff with the metal parts. Also, the velocity stacks on top of the carbys will look neat and uniform.
I am yet to figure out the throttle linkage bars so I can bend and shape something similar too. I have seen guys win on just a paint job alone with no real attention to detail.
But my wins have come from that 'attention' as advised by a woman car modeller who walks away with an award every time, and so, I take that advice seriously.
If you get the chance. Take a look at my Sauber Mercedes C9 and the engine compartment and you will see what I mean. Here is the link. But there are some other builds I have done that a friend wanted me to post and so just keep going through them to the Sauber engine detail that helped win the gold medal in 2014. Camillas request | Album by RedRoo
8 March 2018, 12:21
Kerry COXSpanjaard. Cheers mate. 🙂 That field oven was part of my 1/6 scale 20mm Dragon 1/6 Flak-38 winter Diorama | Album by RedRoo .based on what I could gather from the image taken at the time with snow all over the place. Thanks mate. 👍
8 March 2018, 18:03
Tim HeimerTo Peters drag racer comment, it depends what year it was. I knew of to drag racers that were from down there, Dave Grubnic and Andrew Cowan. other than that I'm clueless.
8 March 2018, 18:13
Peter HardyThey were American teams Tim, used two or three teams out here during the northern winter to run in the Summer Nationals. They usually won being a couple of hundredths ahead of our best.
9 March 2018, 05:59
Album info
Marc Marquez has the number 93. This is my rendition of that bike.