Tamiya Spitfire Vb (late war colours)
Comments
14 March 2017, 00:52
Spanjaardnot bad at all, much better than my early attempts.
now, you can use some panel wash for example to make it look a bit better. i just tried with Flory washes and it works quite well, also they have the advantage of being fully water based, no solvent at all, so no risk of damaging anything, and you can remove them if you do not like it. just with water. of course, you need to give a later of clear varnish before using them probably, to avoid problems with the decals.
what did you use to stain the lower part?
14 March 2017, 07:51
Gauge1TrainsDKThank you for your comment 🙂
Washing the top surface is definitely something I have to try on my next airplane project - I was not brave enough on this one!
On the lower part, I used the Vallejo acrylic black wash, which is also water based. I am having a challenge with this product in the sense that water is not enough to almost entirely remove it, unless maybe I were to completely soak a kitchel towel in water, and have no control. I have also tried Vallejo's Airbrush cleaner, but it is not heavy enough. Perhaps brush cleaner? I don't know. In any event, fter putting on decals, I will usually give them a coat of brush applied gloss varnish.
14 March 2017, 09:22
Spanjaardi have not used the vallejo washes so i can not help on that. in the old times, the idea was to use different solvent type for paint and wash (oil wash over acrylic paint for example), but nowadays there is lots of acrylic washes.... i had some nasty experience with enamel washes, so that is why now i am testing others. if you want to apply washes, i guess you know that the best do apply a bright varnish, and then use the wash (so it runs better) and once done and happy with it, cover with matt varnish if a matt finish is required.
14 March 2017, 09:45
Gauge1TrainsDKYep, that's sort of what I was trying to replicate on the bottom half. For varnish, I use spray cans, not airbrush, and maybe this means it's more difficult to get a *thin* coat covering *everything*. I don't know, but that will be what I try on the next model, also. (Probably a German fighter-bomber to supplement the Bolt Action game.)
14 March 2017, 10:01
David AndrsSince you have stains from the guns, you may want to add exhaust stains as well. This article describes one way how to do it (clubhyper.com/reference/weatheringda_1.htm). A good idea is to get some reference picture to see the pattern on the real airplane. Also, keep in mind that for weathering to look "real", it needs to be consistent.
14 March 2017, 14:47
gorbyAs your first aircraft model it's very good. I agree with Spanjaard that a panel wash would improve it. I use acrylic paints, so I panel wash with home made oil washes. 🙂
14 March 2017, 15:02
Gauge1TrainsDKThanks Andrs and gorby for the comments 🙂 When you mention panel wash (like Spanjaard), I assume you all mean the top part of the aircraft? The underside I've already tried to wash, and it came out dirty 😉
14 March 2017, 15:35
David AndrsPanel wash means to put some paint in the grooves that represents the panel lines both underside and upper side of the airplane (another name you might find is panel line accent, because it accentuates the lines by creating more contrast). There are basically 2 ways how to do it: 1) a sludge wash - where you cover the surface of the airplane, let it dry and then wipe the panels and the paint stays in the grooves (I assume that's what you did on the underside), 2) a pin wash - you touch the lines with fine point brush dipped in the wash to put it in the grooves and the capillary action will drive the paint in the groove. Both ways have advantages and disadvantages...
14 March 2017, 16:25
Gauge1TrainsDKOK, cool. The challenge for me has been to find a proper means of removing Vallejo acrylic wash afterwards.
14 March 2017, 16:35
Spanjaardif the surface is flat and coated with bright varnish, it should be easy, if it rough and matt, it may simply be impossible. drying time of the wash may also make huge difference, too soon, and you will take it all ways when you try, too late, and it will be rock solid. it also depends of course in temperature and humidity.
and of course it is always a good idea first in some old model. some plastics can react badly to some solvents, even after covered with paint.... (i had a couple of bad experiences with that)
14 March 2017, 16:40
Alec KGreat effort, and welcome to Scalemates BTW 👍 Great conversation about washes: there is a ton of info on the web related to this, and YouTube search for "sludgewash" and "pinwash" will return many great how-to videos. I personally prefer oil-based washes, as the working time is longer and there are no problems related to water tension and interaction with water-based paint underneath. I use white spirits (aka mineral spirits) with artist oils (very small amount needed). I like to use a blend of the "sludgewash" and "pinwash" techniques. Best way to go forward is to experiment (old model or cheap kit painted for the purpose), as the technique takes time to get right. Anyways, happy to hear you had fun building the Spit - that's what this is all about 😄
14 March 2017, 17:14
Cristian BordinaHello Gauge, me too paint all my models with the old brush technique. For panel lines I use a very thin brush and a misture of black and brown acrylic paint diluited in water. This need a great patience, because if the suarface is painted with gloss or semigloss paint it's really easy remove smears but on matt paint is harder to do this, and precision and steady hand is needed.
14 March 2017, 17:27
Alec KSpanjaard: I am in the US, so I get the commercially available mineral spirits from any hardware store (I buy the "low odor" variety). Also available at WalMart: walmart.com/ip/Klean..Spirits-1qt/17208809
14 March 2017, 17:40
Spanjaardok, that will be hard to get here.... 🙁 but thanks a lot for the info anyway 🙂
14 March 2017, 18:02
Gary BrantleyI would recommend Flory washes, a clay-based product that is quite easy to use.
florymodels.co.uk/weathering-wash/
Good start on your first plane. 🙂
14 March 2017, 18:31
Christian RistitsVery nice! I can also recommend flory-models wash, works great on my models and is very easy to use.
14 March 2017, 19:08
Gauge1TrainsDKThank you for all your comments and advice, which I really appreciate!
I will look into the Flory Models wash, I think. This night, I tried using Vallejo Airbrush Cleaner only a few minutes, or straight away, after applying the wash to a Warlord Games Panzer IV ausf. F, and it helped, but could not entirely remove everything, either. The Vallejo acrylic and water based washes dry really fast, and I am wondering if maybe I should apply some water to the spot on the model first, then wash, then work on it with Cleaner.
15 March 2017, 08:15
Gary BrantleyNo, I wouldn't go through all that, just wait for some Flory wash and have a go with that. I believe you'll find it easy to use and very forgiving of any mistakes as well. 🙂
15 March 2017, 12:18
Album info
This airplane I built during evenings in January, as my first ever airplane kit. It is meant to be used with the miniature war game Bolt Action, either for decoration, mission objective, or for showing strafing runs.
The cockpit was spray satin varnished along with the rest of the model in the belief that I could just remove the varnish straight afterwards (Army Painter spray can). Unfortunately, that was not so, and I've tried to save it as best I can.
Tamiya decals seem to be very fragile, and one of the circles to go under the wing was unfortunately damaged visibly. I tried fixing this by alluding to a very small piece of flak or other explosive or friction having hit the wing in that particular spot.
Since this is my first airplane kit, and I intend to make more for use with Bolt Action in 1:48 (the game is 1:56, but it seems to fit very well!), I would welcome suggestions for improvement on the next model. Regardless, I had lots of fun building, and that's the most important thing 🙂
Best regards!
