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Casey R
Casey Rupley (Casey R)


Academy Perry Class Frigate: FFG-57

Added a TON of PE. Changing from FFG-7 to FFG-57.

View images (13): | | List


In progress
1:350 USS Oliver Hazard Perry (FFG-7) (Academy 14102)1:350 USS FFG Oliver Hazard Perry Class Detail up set "Advanced" (Pontos Model 37019F1)


1 | 16. September, 23:57
Casey Rupley
My first ship and I had the bright idea to take on the most ambitious PE project I've ever done. Here is how far I've come in two weeks time. Hull is assembled, main structure is assembled, filled holes for kit railings, removed molded details from structure and bow that are to be replaced with PE, primed the hull, put the top PE deck on the main structure and filled/cleaned the edges, and have started to cut out and organize all the PE for the main structure. Kit and PE instructions are both horrible. This is going to be quite the puzzle.

Looking for some help from an experienced ship builder on how/when to assemble and paint all the structures and PE sub-assemblies. Not sure if it's best to assemble the whole thing and then paint, do it by section, or what. I'm a plane builder, so this is a bit overwhelming.
28. September, 21:26
Steven Van Dyck
I'd assemble as much as possible the more fragile PE-parts, but railings can be kept apart to be painted on both sides and then added to the finished deck.
30. September, 10:59
Casey Rupley
Thank you for the advice, Steven. I will definitely save the outside deck rail for last now. Do you ever have problems getting proper paint coverage in all the nooks and crannies if you build and assemble everything first? Wondering if I should plan on painting the sub-assemblies before I put the whole thing together.

Ive never used rub-on decals before either. Any advice there? Im planning on painting on the flight deck markings, but dont know how well the dry decals will work for the ship name and number. Apply on top of a gloss coat?
30. September, 22:51
Steven Van Dyck
Casey, if you would afterward find corners that are left unpainted and can't be reached with airbrush, just use a fine brush and finish the job, or mask off the undesired surface. For dry-decals you don't need gloss, they were in my Pontos wood deck kit for the Independence class so I guess they work best on a raw surface. [img1]
Take good care to cover the entire decal surface with the pencil, or it will rip. Here a link to my Princeton build where I used that Pontos set. CVL-23 USS Princeton | Project by StevenVD (1:350)
1. October, 10:58

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