Chris T. An
@Treehugger: So you can't really confuse a lot. I do the weathering by feeling and not that long either. In my head I have an idea how it should look in the end. Like here: 30 years old metal, rusty, damaged, dirty. After the model is completely painted and sealed with clear coat, as if it were brand new, I then start.
With the AT-ST, chipping came first. I dabbed the edges with dark gray and a sponge so that it looks like chipped paint. Then applied a few streakings with the AK Weathering Pencils, then smeared them down with a damp brush. The good thing here: if it looks stupid, wash it off with water and try again.
Now it's turn to rust. For this, I use Streaking Rust Effects from Ammo of Mig in combination with rust pigments from Revell, as you can see on photo no. 7. The brush is dipped into the liquid and then briefly into the pigments. Then you can apply this mixture where the rust should go. Always work partially. After a few seconds, when the rust mixture is no longer liquid, I dab over the areas with a stiff brush so that the edges don't look as hard and smooth transitions arise. It's relatively tedious, but you have to go through it. If something is not what you want, you can wipe it away with white spirit or enamel thinner. If it is how you imagine it, I seal the whole thing with the airbrush and clear lacquer, because the rust is sensitive to touch.
The next thing, what is still ahead of me now, is dirt on my legs. I will probably work with Revell mud pigments and sand pigments.
Ultimately, it generally helps: just do it. I also just tried it. You should of course take a model to practice, which is not your favorite piece now. And then make it really old and dirty to try out many weathering options. You can still make subtle effects later if you know how to do it.
24. September, 06:54