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Very similar to the Hobby Boss T-30 kit; the main difference being the rear amphibious propulsion system. As usual, the tracks are the hardest part of the build. Lots of tiny individual track links. If you like to paint your tracks separately like I do, leave off all the return rollers so you can slide the tracks back on after you finish painting the tank. The guide teeth are very long and they are very hard to feed over them if they are already attached. I figured that out when I built the T-30. The road wheels are very fiddly as there is a lot of play in the suspension arms. Take care with them so that all the wheels sit level. Like the T-30, I left off the tow cable because of the tiny PE. I decided to paint the whitewash version as depicted in the kit. If you decide to do that and you want to use the decal that wraps around the turret, leave off the vision port PE pieces or you'll have to forget about applying that decal. I didn't realize that until I had already finished painting the model. Oh well. Even had I left them off, it looks like I would have had to use plenty of decal setting solution to get the decal to snuggle over two large bolt looking things (pistol ports?) on either side of the turret. Neat little kit, but as with all these Hobby Boss tanks I've built lately (T-18, T-26, T-30, T-37, and T-38 ), I'd only pick it up if it was on sale. Experience with small PE is definitely a must (along with a PE bending tool).
18. October at 03:11:34 Share
18. October at 02:39:09 Share
September 24, 2019
Another micro Hobby Boss Soviet tank. The tracks were tricky because I like to build them, wrap them around the running gear, and then pull them back off before they dry. The drive sprocket attaches on a super short pin in a very shallow depression. The only way I could get it to stay in place was to apply a very tiny bit of super glue to hold it in place and then pop it off afterwards. The tracks themselves were a pain as they are very tiny and don't have much surface area to connect to each other. I think I added about four more links per side to get a bit of a sag. One thing I really liked about this kit is for almost every PE part, there was a plastic counterpart to it. Having built so many Hobby Boss Soviet tanks in a row, I saved a major headache and used the plastic pieces every time. Compared to all the other ones I built, I couldn't tell a difference. The exhaust grill attaches over an empty hole so as a minimum, the lower inside of the tank should be painted black. One of my faster Hobby Boss Soviet tank builds thanks to the plastic replacement parts for the PE. Interesting looking tank. Recommended for unusual Soviet tank fans but because of it's size, I'd only pick it up if it was on sale.
24. September at 01:40:47 Share
24. September at 01:20:56 Share
August 30, 2019
Another micro Soviet tank. Builds quickly. Fit was great except the muffler. I had to use a bit of putty on the seam between the two halves. The running gear is strange. The four road wheel assemblies go into holes on the side of the hull that allow too much play. I recommend attaching them all at the same time with slow setting liquid cement to make sure all the road wheels touch the ground. I had to do a lot of fiddling with them as the glue dried to make sure they stayed vertical. The tracks are a bit of a pain. There are no positive locating pins or something for the tracks to click into. The edge of the tracks simply lay on the next one with two small lips. Since they are so tiny, you pretty much have to glue one at a time or you will knock any additional ones out of place. Used lots of liquid cement on them! I added two more links than recommended per side but when I installed them after painting they were ever so slightly too tight - even though I built them with a bit of sag. I've got to remember that adding paint to everything makes a perfect fit a slightly too tight of a fit! A bit of super glue - and my wife adding a drop of accelerator while I held the spot where tracks pulled apart - solved the problem. Not much PE which is a surprise for a Hobby Boss kit. Most is reasonable, but there are two rectangular pieces that are supposed to be bent to cradle the muffler and then bent again at the edges to form an upside down V to stabilize the assembly. With no bend guides, I just left them off. The overhead support brackets looked good enough to me. I lost one of the PE pieces I thought I had glued securely in place. It's like a small fin that sits off to the side of the turret. Probably should have waited until the end for that one. No clear lenses or decals. Recommended but because it's so tiny, I'd only get it if it's on sale; full price is a bit much.
30. August at 02:14:18 Share
30. August at 01:37:13 Share
August 18, 2019
Pretty easy kit to build. Much easier than Hobby Boss's T-28. The running gear is much simpler and the kit has link and length tracks vs individual tracks for the T-28. PE was reasonable. However, there is a section that wants you to add very tiny PE strips on the running gear. Looked very tedious and since a plate covered it, why bother? Tricky to paint because PE "straps" fold down from the fender to the armor plating covering the running gear leaving a decent sized gap. I painted the tracks, running gear, and armored plate first, assembled and added them to the kit, and then I finished the rest of the model. I painted the PE straps over the tracks by hand. I decided not to add the optional antenna since I wanted a cleaner look. Instead of the parade stripes (at least I think that's what they're there for) I simply added a red star to each side. Copper wire is provided for the two cables. My question is, "Why?" They don't drape over anything, the cable ends are plastic anyway, and it is tricky to match the length of both. Plastic would have been so much easier for the entire thing. The finished kit is very long and dwarfs my other Soviet tanks of that era. Pretty unique tank - five turrets (!) - that I would easily recommend for any modeler with a little bit of experience using PE and interested in early WW II Soviet armor.
17. August at 22:17:50 Share
The stripes have nothing to do with parades. They are tactical markings used by tank brigades from 1932 to 1938 but could still be seen on vehicles early in the war. The upper constant band gives the battalion, the lower dashed band gives the company. Colors are red 1st, white 2nd, black 3rd, blue 4th, yellow 5th.
18. August at 09:29:02
Add comment » Ron Garcia
Interesting. Thanks for clearing that up for me! I just looked at a tank on the Tank Encyclopedia website that had only the red star on each side and went with that.
18. August at 22:48:01
August 17, 2019
17. August at 22:18:44 Share
Add comment » Ron Garcia
Thought I'd show how big the T-35 is compared to a few other Soviet tanks in my collection. I set it next to a T-18, a T-28, and a very old and dusty T-34.
17. August at 22:21:15
17. August at 21:52:47 Share
August 10, 2019
Super fast build. Even the individual track links were quick and easy. Only needed one finger swipe of putty on one of the joints at the back of the turret. Super tiny. My wife asked if it was actually finished. When I said yes, she said it looked like a toy. Recommended but only if on sale. Retail is way too much for such a tiny kit.
7. April at 03:45:06 Share
Just picked this up, along with the SU-18 SPG, I built the Mod. 1927 T-18 in the past, so looking forward to both of these.
8. August at 14:06:50
If you get right on them, you should have two new builds in no time. The SU-18 looks intriguing. I've been working my way through my stash of Soviet "T" series tanks in order (with the exception of the T-34 of which I have built several over the years). Almost done with the T-35. Interestingly, it has been way faster to build than the T-28 I completed not too long ago. Happy modeling!
10. August at 00:25:42
Add comment » Katya Hodgson
Thanks! I'm rather fond of these early small tanks. ^-^
10. August at 03:49:05
July 19, 2019
Pretty fast build for a Hobby Boss tank kit. WAY too much PE for a kit this size. There is a panel on the right side of the tank that looks to be raised. There are a bunch of PE pieces that look like they are supposed to support it. The problem is that the instructions show how to put it together from the left side leaving me to guess where some of the PE went. I decided to use the metal barrel even though I liked the look of the second barrel choice better. I looked at the T-40 in my stash since it's basically the same kit and saw that the only choice for a barrel is the second one. That sealed my decision. The only thing I left off was the towing cable. Way too complicated. Hobby Boss wants you to fold a copper wire in half (provided), wrap two tiny PE straps (no fold lines on the pieces) around it near the top and bottom to hold it together, then fold the two ends back on themselves to form the ends of the tow cable, and finally wrap two more tiny PE pieces to complete the loop. Since the cable doesn't drape over anything, this should have been rendered in plastic. Over engineered big time! Because of all the tiny PE, I'd recommend this kit for experienced modelers only.
17. July at 18:04:13 Share
The Old Tanker
This is a kit that I'm interested in, so thanks for the heads up! I'm sure I will get one for the stash. The build photo that you posted looks GREAT.
17. July at 18:09:02
Had to delete the image. It keeps loading upside down and I don't know how to flip it.
17. July at 18:19:51
Sorry, Old Tanker, I never properly thank you for your comment, so thanks! If you don't already own it, you might want to opt for the T-40 instead. Apparently this tank was just a prototype for the T-40. One other tip: If you put the tracks on and drape them over the running gear for sag, if you connect the ends hoping to slide it off and paint them separately, you'll run into problems. The guide teeth are too long and they'll prevent you from slipping them over the idler wheels because of the fender above. I lucked out and got them off because they were still a little flexible when I removed them. After the glue had fully cured, I had a heck of a time getting them back on. I broke off one of the idler wheels in the attempt. For the T-40, I'll just tack the last idler wheel in place while the track sag sets and then remove it. The fender doesn't interfere with the other two idler wheels so those can be glued in place.
19. July at 02:49:50
Add comment » The Old Tanker
Thanks for the tips on the tracks Ron. I'll take your recommendation for the kit, and add the T-40 to my wish list. I have a couple of the MiniArt T-70 series kits, so I know just how small those links can be! Cheers!
19. July at 03:42:06
July 17, 2019
17. July at 18:28:37 Share
Add comment » Ron Garcia
Hey! I figured out how to make the picture right side up finally! One photo just for the heck of it.
17. July at 18:30:19
17. July at 17:32:37 Share
July 14, 2019
14. July at 00:05:11 Share
14. July at 00:05:07 Share
14. July at 00:05:04 Share
July 13, 2019
13. July at 23:59:23 Share
Took a long time to finish this kit. Running gear was pretty complex. Put a lot of work into it and then (as I suspected) most of it ended up being hidden behind side panels. Oh well. Impressive size compared to the T-26 I finished prior. Nice looking kit when completed. Fit was first rate. Barely used any putty. Because of all the PE, I'd recommend this one for experienced modelers only.
13. July at 23:26:50 Share
13. July at 23:21:20 Share
June 5, 2019
Way easier to build after learning some lessons from building the T-26 1931 version. For some reason, the form for the tracks in the 1931 version could only hold about six links before the links became too tight and popped out. These tracks didn't have that issue and I was able to bust out 14 links at a time. It wasn't the form in the 1931 version because I saved it and these tracks worked fine with that one as well. This time I did add the track link pins - but only where they could be seen. Still, it took way too long for the effort. Plus, adding them don't make the tracks articulate. The upper hull and turret went together quickly. The fit of the top of the turret was good, but I had to use a bit of putty to close some slight gaps. Good kit. Easier the second time around!
SovietT-26 Light Infantry Tank Mod.1938
Hobby Boss 1:35
2014 | Changed parts
5. June at 02:25:33 Share
completed this item
SovietT-26 Light Infantry Tank Mod.1938
Hobby Boss 1:35
2014 | Changed parts
5. June at 02:12:47 Share
May 14, 2019
Nice kit for those with serious patience. Tracks were a major pain - all those separate pins. They didn't help articulate the tracks and basically just fell out. I ended up giving up and glued the tracks together without them. Sacrilege, I know, to some, but as small as they are, you'd have to be very close to even notice. Maybe I'll try again on the other T-26 in my stash. The running gear was also way over engineered IMHO. Once that part of the kit was finished, the rest was a snap to put together. I'd recommend it for experienced modelers only.
14. May at 01:44:21 Share
14. May at 01:35:37 Share
April 17, 2019
Very easy build. Not a big fan of individual track links, but these went together very easily. Fit is almost perfect. Only used minimal putty at two small joints, one next to the front vision port and the other by the muffler. Painting the running gear was tricky because of all the nooks and crannies my airbrush had trouble shooting behind. The road wheel spokes required brush painting as well for the same reason. Having just completed the super tiny T-18, this kit was bigger than I expected. When I showed my wife the completed kit she smiled and said, "Well, it's green." Unusual tank because of the dual turrets stacked on top of each other. Recommended.
17. April at 01:50:06 Share
17. April at 01:37:12 Share
April 7, 2019
7. April at 03:38:58 Share
March 28, 2019
28. March at 20:56:44 Share
March 4, 2019
Surprisingly easy build with some caveats. I didn't fold the wings or the rudder and I left out much of the inner assemblies like the bomb bay and radar. As a result, attaching the bomb bay doors were tricky since there weren't any prominent positive locating surfaces. The main landing gear assembly was tricky and overly complicated. Took a long while to figure them out as the instructions for that section were very vague. I closed the speedbrakes (I like my planes "clean" ) even though they are only molded in the open position. Very disappointed that there wasn't any bombs for the bomb bay. If Trumpeter included them, I definitely would have broken my clean airplane rule and opened the bomb bay doors. Who produces a bomber that has no bombs? Weird. Huge plane. My wife even commented on it - and she doesn't even care about my models when I show her them after I complete them. In the end, though, I liked the way it turned out. I'd recommend it if you're OK with a strategic bomber with no bombs!
4. March at 00:44:59 Share
4. March at 00:29:46 Share
4. March at 00:28:24 Share
4. March at 00:27:10 Share
First time I used Furball's masks. Mixed feelings. Worked well enough but the vinyl was very stiff. As a result, they didn't seal tightly around compound curves even though I burnished them down each time I painted over them. I had to do some clean up afterwards to remove some Tamiya panel liner and Future that leaked under the masks. The A-3 has mostly flat canopy panels and I experienced leakage; I would be worried about using them on something like an F-14 that has a serious curve to its canopy.
4. March at 00:26:26 Share
December 27, 2018
One of those models where everything went wrong: gluing a prominent piece the wrong way and noticing way too late to correct it, stepping on the canopy leaving a large crack down the length of it, doing everything I could to not knock off that tiny antenna on the rudder and then somehow knocking it off after it had been painted and decaled while gluing on the very last pieces (pitot probes, lights), etc. It was a relief to get this one finished! As far as the model itself, it was OK. Lots of parts for such a small kit. Instructions are a bit busy. The usual Hasegawa irritation of not including any external stores. Goes together easily except I had major issues trying to correctly seat the (avionics?) hump on the back. Next to my ancient Monogram A-4s, however, even with my self-inflicted errors, it looks light years ahead of them.
A-4M Skyhawk (U.S.M.C. Attacker)
2004 | Changed parts
27. December 2018 at 20:32:08 Share
27. December 2018 at 20:15:02 Share
November 25, 2018
25. November 2018 at 17:18:06 Share
November 22, 2018
Nice kit. Goes together easily with minimal filler. Not sure why there's poly caps for the fuel tanks. Made for a very tight fit and I had to apply serious pressure to seat them. These probably should be added before the other ordinance and other fiddly bits to avoid accidentally knocking something loose - or maybe just leave the poly caps out in the first place and glue them on. After just completing a couple of Tamiya A-10s, this model is light years ahead of those kits! Definite recommended!
22. November 2018 at 17:49:48 Share
22. November 2018 at 17:40:03 Share