WIP - G6 Rhino
Comments
1 16 November 2016, 16:25
Scott DuttonMust let me know how this goes. Ive ordered one, yet to arrive. Mine will e in fictional colours of Australian Army as was a contender a few years back when we selected eventually Korean K 9 then cancelled order.hoping we get something, pz2000 or this eventually. You'll do a great job as normal.
18 November 2016, 20:43
Przemek PrzybulewskiScott, Glenn - I did a drivers cab and glued in place. Unfortunately in my case on of the hull halves was twisted a little bit so it doesn't fit perfectly. I hat to use a little force and and some of the CA glue with accelerator to glue it as straight as possible. There is a additional wall mounted in the rear section (just between the rear wheels) to add some strength to the hull. It was also glued with CA just to make sure it fits.
21 November 2016, 11:52
Spanjaardlooking quite good. i am in. the jersey barrier look nice, did you do it yourself, or is a kit?
6 December 2016, 19:30
Scott DuttonA very interesting plan profile without the wheels, looks odd. Seems to have progressed well.
6 December 2016, 20:44
Przemek PrzybulewskiSpanjaard - All barriers were made by me. I have a form to the Jersey barrier and lower T-Wall. The highest one is a freshly build one and I will have to prepare a silicon mould for it to produce some more plaster copies.
Scott - It's just a draft but I'm thinking how to combine all of the element on the base.
7 December 2016, 10:59
Scott DuttonThanks for comparison photos, against other SP and wheels of trucks makes you realise how big this is
7 December 2016, 12:17
Steven Van DyckI'm also determined to get me one of these. In the nineties I had a card game with a picture of one painted sand brown. I hope to find one at BSMC. Your base will look cool wih those barriers, I'd use the large ones near such a high profile AFV.
9 December 2016, 21:02
Spanjaardi am now really interested, i have never done any resin myself... but if you are going to do it, i will follow even more closely! i have a project that calls for making some resin parts, simple ones. but resin nevertheless and i have no idea of even what materials to buy!
14 December 2016, 18:30
Spanjaardor the moulds are maybe for the barriers and i am getting carried away by my enthusiasm....
14 December 2016, 18:50
Przemek PrzybulewskiThanks gents.
Steven - model is very nice to build and surprisingly very large.
Spaanjaard - to build molds I'm using MM922 silicone with blue (slow) catalyzer. As for the resin, I never tried to use it, I just bought 1 kg of ReniCast FC52. But those molds on the picture were prepared for the plaster copies of my barriers.
15 December 2016, 10:59
Steven Van DyckI already bought it at BSMC, Przemek. The box was exploding with bags full of tyres. Sadly there is no reference material to be found.
15 December 2016, 23:01
Scott DuttonGood luck with the resin, did some of that 10 years ago. Was a learning experience. Lego is a good choice there. You can use the mating male and female buttons as the key to the two halves of the mould so they line back up. You have to use a lego base for that, not the plasticard you have used here. Don't forget to put some grease between the two parts of the rubber master when you are creating that otherwise they will join together. Couldn't believe how fluid the stuff is, rubber, used to come out the cracks in the lego blocks. New frontiers
16 December 2016, 06:41
Scott DuttonYou will also find most resins have a pretty short shelf life, few months, so use it up when you can
16 December 2016, 06:42
Spanjaardthanks for the information Scott. i have to buy some book about it, to know a bit more and then do some experiments about it.... and get some Legos 😄
16 December 2016, 07:21
Przemek PrzybulewskiTrue, resin have only few months of life so it should be used short after purchase.
As for the lego, blocks are quite useful but as Scott mention this stuff will pour out every smallest hole in the construction - be warned 😉 Recently I found disposable plastic cups quite useful, I cut the bottom, put it upside down and pour silicone. Easy, simple and safe.
16 December 2016, 07:59
Dan MHi Przemek, I've noticed in photo 10 that the chair has a texture on it, how did you achieve the effect? Looks like worn leather...
15 January 2017, 10:45
Przemek PrzybulewskiDan - It was done with Tamiya Thin Cement. First I applied it all over the surface and when it was almost gone I used the cement brush with some glue on it on this surface. Just poking it trying to achieve this effect. When it was completely dry I sand it a little bit with 240 paper.
Ed - Thank you. Be my guest. Im always trying to show my techniques and way of modeling. It good to know that someone is finding this useful.
15 January 2017, 14:21
Dan MThank you Przemek, that's a very interesting technique, I'm going to try it as well.
16 January 2017, 09:02
