Steven Van Dyck
Megan, can you provide some pictures? It could be due some different causes, like the paint mixing time or possible pollution on the model surface. Are you sure the primer and paint are compatible? Do not use the Revell brush cleaning product to thin your paint, it contains agents that probably attack your primer.

revell.de/en/product..es/painta-clean.html

Steven Van Dyck
I hope you used this: revell.de/en/product..color-mix-100ml.html

Megan Harris
Hi Steven. yes, that is the colour mix that i used. And i dont think i can add photos to this thread. I will try to send them to you

Megan Harris
Yeah i cant find any way to post a picture of it to this post. is there any other way i can send it to you?

Steven Van Dyck
To create albums, look at the profile menu right. I used to paint with Revell and Humbrol, but I never used their own thinner, mostly just household white spirit. I stopped using them as a base color 10 years ago and changed to Tamiya. If I would be using enamels like you, I probably would search a non-enamel primer to avoid reactions between the paint layers. Enamels can be redissolved for quite some time after they are touch-dry, while an acrylic or laquer paint stays put a minute after it is applied. Not saying that this is the problem here, we'll see on the pictures.

Olivier
One question : Why did you use primer ? When I used enamel paints, I never primed. With Acrylic I do.

Munkyslut
What ratio are you thinning the paint to?
Could be you have it too thin, that will leave uneven streaks & poor coverage 😉
What was the problem with the airbrush?
Maybe the Mates collective can help you there?

Megan Harris
I've created an album with the picture of the problem

Megan Harris
Turns out AK interactive glossy varnish helps. She's nearly fixed.

Augie
Ok, so brush painting is a mystic art.. but I shall try to advise.

It sounds like your over thinning the paint. Ordinarily I wont thin (unless its one of the special new humbrols you can open and upend and nothing comes out.)

Once you have the paint on, you are likely to get variations on finish (shine, matt) but with a coat of future that will balance it out.

Also, unless I really have too, I never prime. Paint straight to plastic (Most times I dont even wash the plastic first)

I can add more later once I am done at work.

Augie
Also, try to do long consistent strokes along a surface, so tops of the wings would be from leading edge to trailing edge, fuselages I tend to go nose to tail

Steven Van Dyck
Now I wonder how the clearparts will fit in afterwards? This is easier if they are glued in before painting.

Olivier
@Augie, Washing I do mainly for resin kits.

Olivier
Roland had the most important question : did you use enamel or acrylic paint ? The little jars we see in the background of some photographs are acrylic.

Augie
I've had acryl and enamels do that over the years.
@Olivier Fair eonugh, I've never bothered myself. Seems to work for me.

Augie
Hi Roland, Not sure I said that.. for Acryl, its either water, IPA, or Mr Color.. Never use enamel thinners for acryl or the other way around.. does not end well.

Augie
Let me find my paint bible from last year sometime.. it will help.

Augie
Found it

Firstly Brushes :- Tamiya modelling brushes sizes NO.0 to NO.5 are what I use mostly.

Cleaned in a mix of cellulose thinners, humbrol/revell brush cleaner

Ok so to the paints.. brush paints..please remember these are just my own thoughts and finding after 30yrs of modelling, based on solely using the hairy stick.

Humbrol:-

Enamels Older stuff is generally ok, newer has seemingly huge quality control issues. I have brand new cans where I can honestly pop the lid off and turn them upside down and nothing comes out! It does however thin out well with Humbrol, Revell, VMS thinners.

Acrylics are generally fine and if need thinning use IPA or water.

Humbrol Authentic range:-

Enamels Old school style, stink to high heavens but are probably the best paints I have used. I have pots older than me that still work fine...probably poisonous.

Airfix:- See Humbrol Authentics

Revell:-

Enamels most of mine are older so hard to tell, they thin well with Revell and VMS, but not with Humbrol thinners.

Acrylics tend to be a little on the thick side, however thin with just about any acrylic thinner (Mr Color excluded) and work well

ModellMaster:-

Enamels, not used many but they all have been fine from the glass, good coverage and good stable drying time allows time to work with brush.

Tamiya:-

Acrylics, dry quickly I find so need a few drops of retarder to slow them down to be manageable. Thin with IPA if needed

Mr Color:-

Nice constancy, but need a touch of Mr Color thinner to make them manageable

Hataka:-

Acrylics Used both their airbrush ones and brush ones with brushes and they go on really well, don't need to be thinned and don't dry too quickly

Lifecolor:-

Acrylics thin as heck and coverage is poor. might be fine in airbrush, not so great with brush.

Akan:-

Acrylics they are like Hataka paints, thin but not too thin. Work well with smooth finish

Model Air (Vallejo) :-

Acrylic, lots of thin coats but build well. Used on my flanker with great results.

LucLuke B
Hello Augie, why no Vallejo in your bible?

Augie
Hi Luke, I've amended it, the air colour was actually model air.. which are Vallejo.

LucLuke B
Thanks, very instructive, specially since model shops have disappeared in my neck of the woods and there are many brands out there. Also difficult to choose colours online. I've had a few surprises when receiving paints that were not the colour I was hoping for.

bughunter
A good overview of paints, but two important ones missing: Alclad and Mr.Paint (mrpaint.sk/) which are great airbrush paints.

Augie
Reason they are missing, is that I have not used them. 🙂

Olivier
Ah @Augie, Humbrol Authentic... I used them as a teenager and still regret them.

Earlier I mentioned resin and washing. It was resin and primer,in fact...