Saab 35 Draken MikroMir-kit
Aligning parts is tricky.
Left one is from Hasegawa, right one from MikroMir.
I need to get the cockpit fit between the fuselage halves before painting anything.
More dry-fitting
More dry-fitting.
I had to add one missing part from scratch. The white one.
Cockpit painting ongoing. I'm also building Hasegawa's kit in the same time.
Afterburner was really a challenge. I managed it by using Ammo's Ultra Glue an thin black CA-glue.
Afterburner completed.
Cockpit painted and ready.
Comparing Hasegawa and MikroMir
One of the most interesting and rare details: the air intake.
Comparison of Hasegawa's and MikroMir's afterburners.
Fuselage details need a lot of fitting. Here i one of the lower airbrakes.
The air intake painted.
This kit requires a lot of dry fitting and fixing. Just noticed that the front wheel bay and the cockpit couldn't be put in place the way suggested in the instructions.
Placing of the parts is very complicated.
Wing root was very challenging.
Opposing to instructions it was better to glue wing roots to the upper frame.
Frame halfs help aligning wing roots.
Air scoop comparison: from left Quickboost, Hasegawa and MikroMir.
MikroMir's IRST was a disappointment. It has clear parts and one PE-part, but the body of the IRST is too bulky and lacks panel lines.
500- and 1500-surfacers applied. Tape protects the small opening.
The insides should be ready for joining the fuselage halfes.
Front landing gear bay glued to the nose part.
Notice the alignment pin in the nose part joined to the air intake.
Lot of pressing.
The canopy still shows a good fit although there is a big gap between the nose and the fuselage. Dryfitting!!
Nice progress. Next is filling gaps and smoothing joints.
Gaps filled with styrene sheets.
The air intake was damaged so it needed fixing.
The inlet fix is okay-ish.
Rudder in place!
I'm making a late Finnish J35XS Draken so it needs chaff and flare dispensers. Maestro Models' resin parts needed some uppgrade . That's why I made this easy hole punching tool in about 15 minutes just to get 0,8mm diameter plastic circles. Just some leftover wood, a toothpick and 0,8mm drill bit.
Comments
36 26 February, 21:28
RandoVery cool, I'm getting the Mikro Mir kit, interested to hear how it goes together
27 February, 00:22
Patrick HagelsteinTrue! Joining in as well to see how this builds up. Enjoy the build! 👍🏼
28 February, 00:28
S MWelcome, mates! I'm building also a Hasegawa kit alongside with this for comparison and for testing painting.
29 February, 06:24
Patrick HagelsteinŁukasz, I was thinking the same. That 'old' Hasegawa kit isn't that bad after all. The MikroMir kit is only marginally more refined as it seems.
4 March, 14:38
S MHasegawa has only 60 grey parts and 3 clear parts, but it is pretty smartly made and easy to build. MikroMir has 150 grey parts, 5 clear parts and 67 mandatory PE-parts. Being a short-run kit its parts need more work to fit. Still MikroMir contains more details (and Falcon missiles) than Hasegawa so it's comparatively cheaper.
4 March, 16:18
Patrick HagelsteinOK, so you do think the MikroMir kit is the more detailed one? Good to know when I get to my Austrian Draken project (sometimes this century.... )! Following your build with interest! 👍
4 March, 21:00
S MWell my background research is still going on, but atleast the cockpit is more detailed.
4 March, 21:19
S MI have to update that MikroMir's IRST is not as good as Hasegawa's. The seeker head is a clear part and there is one PE-part fin, but the two-part frame is bulky and doesn't have panel lines. Luckyly the Draken version I'm goingt to make doesn't have an IRST so I used the clear part and the PE-part to improve my Hasegawa-Draken's IRST.
7 April, 15:44
S MSlow progress, but I'm very proud of this simple tool that I made in 15 min to make 0,8mm diameter styrene circles.
5 June, 17:38
