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Thread started by Mithran’dir

JD
Anyone have a method for extending the working time when setting decals? Always seems like a race against the clock to me...
28 May 2020, 22:29
Chaz Gordon
I use microset, it seems it'll move at the slightest provocation as long as you keep it wet with the solution. Seems to take a while to dry. Then after about an hour, I go over it again with set. After a couple of hours I go over with Microsol, working gently with a semi stiff brush for no more than 30 seconds, to push the decal down onto any raised or engraved detail. After another hour or two, if there are any areas where the decal is not fully down on the detail, I roll (not wipe) a Qtip over it , applying gentle pressure. If the decal doesn't look like it's painted on at this point, another cycle of Microsol should do it. Any more past that risks dissolving the decal.
29 May 2020, 04:47
JD
Thanks for the tip Chaz, I use Sol and Set too, but for me there's a point when working the decal when it wants to grab hold before I'm ready. I do have my light source pretty close to the table though, and it gets pretty hot. I was wondering if anyone has tried adding a drying retarder or flow improver to the decal water to see if it may slow drying time?
29 May 2020, 05:28
Chaz Gordon
I do allow the water from the decal to mix with the set while I'm positioning it. if there's any excess water once the decal is in the right place, I wick it away with a clean dry paint brush. If anything I find Microset extends the time before decals set. Perhaps it is that light, my work lights are all led, so no excess heat. Plus I have a tendency to work on models late at night, not that the UK gets hot that often.
29 May 2020, 05:59
JD
It's experiment time...I'm learning how to print my own decals, or rather duplicate the ones I have, and so far it ain't easy, but if all goes according to plan, I won't have to worry about drying time so much...
29 May 2020, 06:33
Bill Newcomer
JD, I use a small container that was the package for 3M electrical tape. Kind of like a petri dish with a lid. I add ONE drop of dish soap to the water. It allows me to slide the decal around for quite some time. I have heard of Microsol and Microset but have not gotten any yet. I used Testors Decals Set but I have learned it is not much more than white vinegar. Now, I simply refill my bottle from my wife's kitchen supply. WAY WAY cheaper for me.
15 June 2020, 03:25
Bob Hall
Keep a wet Q-tip ready at all times, just keeps your stuff damp as needed.
15 June 2020, 03:37
JD
I think the underlying problem is with this particular set of decals, they feel like strips of vinyl or something, impervious to Microsol, they don't soften and conform to surfaces, and yet are brittle...worst of all they are irreplaceable unless I learn how to make them myself. I printed my first set on decal paper tonight, and am using Testors decal bonding spray...fingers crossed. Any decal making tips would be appreciated. 😄
15 June 2020, 03:58
Chaz Gordon
I have found the perfect little spray bottles that the top fits right on the Microset bottle, with this you can apply a fine mist right before applying the decal. Also I don't dry the excess water from the decal first, this helps reduce air bubbles, and also mixes with the Microset nicely, which I think is primarily an exercise in reducing surface tension in the water, as is dish soap (use the green stuff it has less additives (Fairy in the UK). Also, I find luke warm water helps the process a lot, so I keep changing the water. I also invested in one of those Testors Decal trays, it's amazing for those tiny decals that want to go swimming.
15 June 2020, 12:40
Treehugger
I've always thought that, when if you willfully try to make the decal come off the sheet sooner (and risk tearing the decal), the adhesive is stronger than if you just let the decal moisten and come loose by itself. No expert on decals though.
15 June 2020, 12:57
Chaz Gordon
Definitely agree with treehugger on that point, one of the reasons I like my Decal tray, if it goes for a swim while I'm waiting, I can just surface the grid like a submarine in a bond movie. One other tip, I always cut the decal sheet large and leave enough to grip with reverse tweezers, which I leave attached to ease the whole fishing it out process. (with DIY decals, you can score halfway through the paper tight around the printed decal before you soak, so the excess can be removed in the water, and you still get the benefit of some excess backing to grip on to.
15 June 2020, 13:34
Robert
there is a product from AGAMA called Hypersol. its much stronger than Microsol. It softens pretty much anything. But after it was applied don't touch the decal until it is dry.
16 June 2020, 11:57
JD
Hypersol eh? I'll look into it, thanks Robert. What I really want to do is make duplicates of the decals I have, but have been unsuccessful thus far. I've made scans of the original, but I need someone to edit them with some good software to remove the background color from the decal sheet, so they will print clear. If someone could do it to my satisfaction, I may mail you a free kit from my stash as compensation (providing it's not one I'm too interested in) 😎
16 June 2020, 20:15
Robert
Send me the scan... I'll take a look at it...
16 June 2020, 20:19
JD
Really? Ok, let me figure out how...
16 June 2020, 20:46

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