JD Hi Chaz, It seems that the clear is the same as the blue, not sure why the color difference, maybe it's formulated to not stick to the blue, but maybe it's a visual reminder to keep track of the 2 parts. I think the real reason the two don't stick together is the temperature differential between the 1st and 2nd mold. Another curious thing is the more you knead it, tiny bubbles are introduced that can mess up casting details unless it's very hot when you use it, then using a tool to force it down into the part. For flat, or 1sided parts, I used a piece of glass to push the part into the blue stuff to make a 1 part mold. It takes awhile to cool down, so I have a bowl of cold water nearby. It's lots of trial and error, but easily repeatable.
29. July, 18:02
Chaz Gordon I found the blue stuff easiest to get a good 1 part mold if first I force it into a square frame of Lego, on a ceramic tile. then I re-heated the block out of the lego mold, set the parts inside the leo frame, and push the blue stuff block down into the frame. as the block is already smooth, I got a perfect flat mold without bubbles.
I did discover that it cuts well with a sharp blade when cold, so getting a 2 piece mold is easier.
PS do not put the lego in the boiling water, it melts at a surprisingly low temperature.
29. July, 22:53
JD I'd like to see pics of your trials, what will you use to cast with?
As far as casting material, I've tried Milliput, JB weld 2 part epoxies, and 5 min epoxy which is bubble city.
The clay-like epoxies are quite rigid, and you have to squeeze the molds together, but too much and things get distorted. I want to try injecting resin into a 2 part mold next. Oh yeah and btw, don't use Lego knockoffs.. can't get em' apart!
29. July, 23:45
Chaz Gordon I experimented with araldite rapid and standard and jb weld steel best results were araldite standard, rock hard in 24 hours and no bubbles. It will also self level as it's workable for 90 minutes. Araldite rapid is ok, but gets bendy from body heat when trying to work it after it's cured. Could be handy in some applications. Jb weld was like rubber for a week, then hard as steel, but lots of bubbles. It's also the worst for levelling.
30. July, 17:08
JD I want to give a shout out to Mike Szwarc today dudes.. I received the Podracer decals he sent me out of his personal stash. A hell of a nice guy!
And, what a great talent! You have to check out his post-apocalyptic Mad Max inspired builds! Amazing..
1. August, 04:42
WhiteGlint Looking great! I really love the detail on the engines, nicely done
24. September, 17:14
JD Thanks WhiteGlint! It's been sitting on a shelf collecting dust for some time now, soon it will begin to look like a real desert! I really must return and finish it someday after I complete my Jedi decal training. Only then will the circle be complete
25. September, 03:10
Ralf Topeters An extra "Like" for that comment of you. What a great one!!!
JD My first attempt at lighting a model. A single led!
10. September, 22:52
S M Yay! It's coming up nicely First Grade Zaku looks also convincing
11. September, 04:51
JD Thanks S M buddy, I'm new to the Gundam universe. I'm inspired to try the shiny glossy look on this one rather than a lot of weathering. Trying to figure out how to do a sci-fi industrial looking base to go with it.
11. September, 20:25
Paul Juliano There are "chain bases" put out by Kotobukiya that look absolutely stunning when done up nicely. You can link different sets of them together and get a cool "Gundam Hangar" look. I saw a guy who lit them up and does all his gunpla photos in them and it's just freaking fantastic. Check it out: https://reddit.com/r/Gunpla/..mechanical_chain_base_build/
11. September, 20:32
JD Cool! I must admit, I never liked most of the armored suit designs in the Gundam universe, but there are a few that I like that aren't too cartoon-like. Working my way up to my Ma.k. kits eventually..
jimmy christy un realated to modeles: try a vidio game called ravenfield 14.99$
9. September, 17:32
Gary Dahlström LOL I just took a few pics this weekend of a Bulldog that sits outside a VFW post about 30 miles from me. You're welcome to them. I got good side & front pics, one of the turret mantle, and I think one of both the back and front fenders. It had just got a new paint job. I wandered out back of the post, and yea, I found a few old soldiers drinkin' and a smokin' at 9am on a Sunday morn... bless their hearts. One vet was just cracking open a fresh, cold can of Busch - i think i threw up a little in my mouth.
None could answer any question about the Bulldog though, only that they had just painted it. Good on you for tackling a Tamiya classic!
(Almost fed the troll, but decided against it...)
9. September, 18:22
JD I'm surprised that this album is getting so much attention, it's not even that good. I'm kind of encouraged to post some more of my early work now.
JD The one that started it all.. Back in 2017 the farthest thing from my mind was building models, when I came across this kit in a 2nd hand store, along with a set of Warhammer space marines. I had only some ideas on how to proceed. I wasn't on YouTube much, and really had no interest in models until I came across my hero Adam Savage on his channel. When I saw him build the cosmonaut model, I was hooked. You can see the humble beginnings of my workspace, with few paints and tools..
10. September, 20:59
Munkyslut That's a cool story, cool car too
Is that a Jag straight 6?
Interesting scale too!
10. September, 21:21
Tim Heimer Thanks for sharing that! It's funny the stories of how we start out, I had friend that worked in a hobby shop years earlier look at a model I just built and he was like ya it's o.k. Then after the shock of what I thought was a good build was over, he then told me what real modelers do! I said fk that I'll never do that stuff! 10 yrs later I'm doing that stuff and more. LOL! Keep it going JD!
marcasgarcia Pues sinceramente, me ha dado muy buena impresión. Es más, visto como has dejado las figuras. Me dan ganas de pintarlas, cosa que no tenía pensado. Un trabajo digno del que estar satisfecho. Un abrazo compañero.
16. July, 21:50
JD ¡Muchas gracias amigo! Espero que el idioma sea correcto. ¡Sé que tu modelo saldrá genial!
16. July, 22:09
marcasgarcia Gracias a ti por expresarte en español. Como scalemates se me traduce automáticamente a mi idioma, no me doy cuenta que podéis no entenderme. Así que siento si alguno no consigue entenderme. Si no, vengo utilizando traductores.
17. July, 08:25
marcasgarcia Por lo demás, a ver qué sale al final. Porque siempre tengo algún fallo. Me queda mucho que aprender y que mejorar. Un abrazo compañero.
17. July, 08:27
JD Yo uso el traductor de Google, puede escribir en cualquier idioma y convertir al inglés, o cualquier otro. Pero el inglés es mejor aquí en Scalemates.
Robbie What materials are you using for the base? I have a half dozen tiny scale AMT kits mostly the different flavors of the Enterprise. I have poked around craft stores looking for something not too big or small that I can make bases. I have looked at different kinds of styrofoam and plastic balls, cutting them in half to make a base but nothing really has hit the spot. So when I see posts like this, I pounce with questions.
4. September, 22:01
JD Hi Robbie, the mind wanders doesn't it? This base came out of the Enterprise Space Seed edition. Have you considered making a cast of a base you already have?
Anyway, I'm going for a planetary effect here, still in the experimental stages. I posted this as a reference for my mate Gary on his amazing build. He's already on top of it: qaStaH nuq jay’ | Album by Knucklehead Labs (1:350)
I like the idea of using a lighted base painted with transparent paint to simulate a planet below. A dome style light fixture from the home store seems ideal. Turns your finished model into a lamp!
Ralf Topeters YOu are truly a master of colors!!! Let's get in and get it on. Bye bye present welcome future! Then we can go and watch all the kits and dios we are gonna build in the coming years.
31. August, 18:55
Mark Boots Roads? where we go we don't need...roads. Very nice.
31. August, 19:10
JD Thank you everyone. I'm glad it's over. It took me more than 2 months, including all the down time and bashing my head against the wall trying to figure out how to make it happen. I'm a little disappointed that I could not get a good shot of the flux capacitor with the glowing effects, but my camera can't handle the low light conditions. I think I need to step away from the workbench for awhile, and take a break, or do something easier. I need to improve my work area, build a better spray booth, and a proper photo booth with a nice camera. Then I want to work on dioramas and bases, and eventually electronics, and somewhere in there finish Anakin's Podracer.
JD How I decant rattlecan paints. I have since learned that you DO NOT use plastic lids. Shortly after this, the chrome one exploded because the propellant will expand, eat through the lid, and become a paint bomb.
Glass jars with metal lids only. Also make sure you use the right thinner. In this example, I have found that some of the Rustoleum metallics prefer mineral spirits over lacquer thinner.
24. August, 01:15
Bill Newcomer Rattle cans are pigment, solvent and propellant. You obviously need to let the propellant out completely before sealing. Outdoors preferably.
JD I'm not a huge Gundam fan, but for 7 dollars at Hobby Lobby, I couldn't pass it up.
Bandai kits are so much fun and low stress, the next thing I knew 5 hours had passed! I'll return to finish painting and create some sort of base later on.
16. July, 17:51
Michael Osadciw I just finished that one for my son this afternoon. It was my first attempt to get him into the hobby, but it didn't work. I think his mother's level of patience wore off on him. I do love how Bandai kits go together. So smooth.
JD One of my first attempts at modeling and airbrushing. Gotta start somewhere...
17. December 2019, 02:26
JD I learned to airbrush before I learned how to use putty to fill in seam lines...kinda backwards
17. December 2019, 02:32
JD Thanks for the encouragement James C. I admire your skills..
22. December 2019, 21:26
JD Not shure how to proceed..was going for 3 color disruptive, but Afrika Corps, seems easier...
24. December 2019, 06:51
Rui S I would like to see this One finished.
And I certanly advise a 2 or 3 colour camo
15. July, 00:35
JD This is my 3rd model since I returned to the hobby in 2017, and my first tank ever. I never finished it because at the time, I didn't know enough to take it any further. I actually scratch built a toy tank out of wood to practice airbrushing on because I was scared to learn on a real model! (It has a place of honor in my collection) Later I bought toy robots from the dollar store to learn on which helped me gain experience
15. July, 00:50
Rui S I ser what you mean. An oldy
I was just replying to your question in the thread
p.s. Anyway, Nice work on the side skirt impacts
Spanjaard maybe because in order to do that, there has to be a model associated to the album... and currently there is none
2. July, 08:05
Chaz Gordon Correct, There is no Project associated and hence no Kit link, It's just some guys chatting about shop finds.
Wilky, would that it were so simple, the "Dealers" are paying stall holders who trawl through the public sellers before the general public are allowed in, It's a general bone of contention about the format, a lot of public sellers won't sell to them, but so many do that it's ruined the fun of car boot sales.
2. July, 09:40
wilky Yeah, the money hungry always spoil it for us genuine enthusiasts
2. July, 09:48
Starbase101 Okay, I guess I presumed there was an associated project since the photos in the album are of a model kit and this thread's first few posts are related to the specific kit. That's one downside to filtered Newsfeed views.
JD So I would need to create a new project with this kit if I want it to be categorized and searchable. My Time machine build too is only viewable when both sci-fi and movies, or vehicles, filters are checked, because it's just another album getting lost in the feed...
2. July, 19:25
Starbase101 Would be nice if a photo album could be linked to a topic, say reference photos being shared and there is no "project" created to link them to. Then when viewing the topic you'd see non-project albums related to that topic. Just an idea.
JD Dammit Chaz, you're right again. It does deserve a scene with Tie fighters chasing it! I even have the unpainted Tie kit on my desk right now coincidentally... the details are so small on the Bandai kits though, I may need the masking stencils to proceed.
Roland, thanks buddy, I know your work, it's pretty awesome!
27. June, 20:49
Chaz Gordon #9 - Like it, even scraping the dirt with Rey's bumpy piloting.
28. June, 00:02
Spanjaard i really like picture 4. it shows what a huge difference a simple was can make.
28. June, 11:30
JD I like to use India inks for washes on certain models for that perfect greyscale, but coffee stains can occur if left to sit too long before cleanup.This was a quick and dirty build anyway, but now I'm inspired to take it further and make a dio for it. I will add it to the todo pile! (mountain)
JD I think the underlying problem is with this particular set of decals, they feel like strips of vinyl or something, impervious to Microsol, they don't soften and conform to surfaces, and yet are brittle...worst of all they are irreplaceable unless I learn how to make them myself. I printed my first set on decal paper tonight, and am using Testors decal bonding spray...fingers crossed. Any decal making tips would be appreciated.
15. June, 03:58
Chaz Gordon I have found the perfect little spray bottles that the top fits right on the Microset bottle, with this you can apply a fine mist right before applying the decal. Also I don't dry the excess water from the decal first, this helps reduce air bubbles, and also mixes with the Microset nicely, which I think is primarily an exercise in reducing surface tension in the water, as is dish soap (use the green stuff it has less additives (Fairy in the UK). Also, I find luke warm water helps the process a lot, so I keep changing the water. I also invested in one of those Testors Decal trays, it's amazing for those tiny decals that want to go swimming.
15. June, 12:40
Treehugger I've always thought that, when if you willfully try to make the decal come off the sheet sooner (and risk tearing the decal), the adhesive is stronger than if you just let the decal moisten and come loose by itself. No expert on decals though.
15. June, 12:57
Chaz Gordon Definitely agree with treehugger on that point, one of the reasons I like my Decal tray, if it goes for a swim while I'm waiting, I can just surface the grid like a submarine in a bond movie. One other tip, I always cut the decal sheet large and leave enough to grip with reverse tweezers, which I leave attached to ease the whole fishing it out process. (with DIY decals, you can score halfway through the paper tight around the printed decal before you soak, so the excess can be removed in the water, and you still get the benefit of some excess backing to grip on to.
15. June, 13:34
Robert Espenschied there is a product from AGAMA called Hypersol. its much stronger than Microsol. It softens pretty much anything. But after it was applied don't touch the decal until it is dry.
16. June, 11:57
JD Hypersol eh? I'll look into it, thanks Robert. What I really want to do is make duplicates of the decals I have, but have been unsuccessful thus far. I've made scans of the original, but I need someone to edit them with some good software to remove the background color from the decal sheet, so they will print clear. If someone could do it to my satisfaction, I may mail you a free kit from my stash as compensation (providing it's not one I'm too interested in)
JD It's everything you want a putty to be, works exactly as advertised, smooth, water based, easily sandable, can be reactivated with water. A real game changer. Too bad it's made in the UK and not readily available here in the US