Thread started by Treehugger
TreehuggerHaving restarted my hobby recently from a 2 year pause or something like that, I keep being humbled by what challenges there are to managing to keep things clean, flush and undamaged. 🙂
ibb.co/g7ykprF (image upload)
I finally learned recently to properly thin my paints for airbrushing and also gaining a lot of confidence in applying a gloss coat (Humbrol Clear in my case).
I started that model above as a simple build and focus on the airbrushing. I did a lot of work on seams, but I am yet again humbled by what it takes to get a really good result. :| Especially critical to get a nice result around the canopy piece, because that area tend to stand out.
Photo shows model with two layers of gloss coat, drying, before decaling. I swear, I could see a looong slight sink mark on top of the entire wing area when painting and adding gloss coat. After adding satin varnish, I doubt that will be visible, I did nothing to fix this issue.
ibb.co/g7ykprF (image upload)
I finally learned recently to properly thin my paints for airbrushing and also gaining a lot of confidence in applying a gloss coat (Humbrol Clear in my case).
I started that model above as a simple build and focus on the airbrushing. I did a lot of work on seams, but I am yet again humbled by what it takes to get a really good result. :| Especially critical to get a nice result around the canopy piece, because that area tend to stand out.
Photo shows model with two layers of gloss coat, drying, before decaling. I swear, I could see a looong slight sink mark on top of the entire wing area when painting and adding gloss coat. After adding satin varnish, I doubt that will be visible, I did nothing to fix this issue.
25 February 2020, 15:55
BozzerMate, I always check for sink lines in my primer stage. Sometimes, for large areas, I run a straight edge over the entire model. As for Humbrol, I only use their enamels now. Tamiya are very airbrush friendly, but with modern technology, most paints are pretty much airbrushable now. When it comes to clear coat, I have to recommend Winsor and Newton. You'll get them in any decent art store. Yellow tub, Galleria, I think it's branded as? It lasts for ages and they have gloss, satin and Matt. Good luck buddy and keep searching for new ideas for masking etc. Remember, it's a hobby, so enjoy it and don't let anything spoil it 👍
26 February 2020, 00:40
TreehuggerAfter a couple of layers of gloss coat and a day or two drying time, I am observing cracks in the surfaces in places. I suspect that my thicker layers of primer and inadequate drying time is to blame for this.
26 February 2020, 18:12
BozzerThat's possible buddy. Also, it could be a reaction to primer and paint? I'm not a scientific type of guy, but I hear of these things, from time to time. I think I prefer your explanation though. I try to leave things, for as long as possible. I do know enamel takes a considerable amount of time to dry. The cracks that you describe, could possibly be from the clear coat not allowing the top coat to breathe, thus making it's final way through, regardless of the subject? With multiple coats, the drying time is delayed.
26 February 2020, 19:49
TreehuggerI noticed such cracks on a sub model a few years ago, in which I had some 6+ layers of gloss coat. Still, I only had cracks in a limited area. Back then I assumed I had too many gloss coat layers, that also wasn't allowed to dry properly between adding new layers. I was impatient and just wanted to try get a piano laquer finish. 🙂 I did not take care to sand the primer and paint properly, so, no wonder I needed more and more layers of gloss coat because of how thin a layer of Humbrol Clear is.
26 February 2020, 21:33