Стіна

Guy Rump
Following. 👍

Guy Rump
Following. 👍

Gordon Sørensen
Great looking builds, Chris! Interesting to see the differences (and similarities) between the Italeri and SH kits. Interesting video on the masking fluid. I assume it works best if the canopy panel lines are prominent and well-defined.

Cuajete
Thanks for the video. Much cleaner and better than with a normal brush 👌

Neuling
How small can helicopters be ? 🙂 Amazing work!

Chris
Maybe you missed the two Kingfisher-planes on their catapults on the back of the ship 😉

Thank you!

Neuling
Obviously. They were so tiny .... 🙂

Ben M
👀

Bozo
Dornier knew how to make seaplanes and this one is superb in its civil version.
Transparent parts can be improved with polishing pastes

Chris
Thank you. I will try this first. In case of failing I will try vac-forming it. If failing again I think I heard of third party canopies and will make a search.

George Williams
It looks just like a real one , just gorgeous.

Chris
Today I finished this car. I am happy how it looks and as I always say: My best model is the one I just finished. I learned a lot and the next one will be better.
hope you enjoyed the build and I want to say thank you for following and watching. 😄

Mike Thomas
Looking good so far, Chris.

The black ring you are referring to was painted on the test vehicles, SA-500, which both Revell and Airfix used as reference for their respective kits. If you're not accurately modelling a specific Saturn V, don't worry about it. As to your other curiosity, the real Saturn V was 363 feet (110.6 meters) tall and weighed an average of 6.3 million pounds (2.8 million kilograms) at takeoff, depending on the mission.

Chris
Thank you, Mike. That clarified a few things. As I do not want to build a specific Rocket, I agree and don't mind the painting. There are some things I learned during building, so I would have to build a second one, that woukd be more accurate. 😉

Nicolas
Following

DerMattes
Watching.

Treehugger
Some issues working with PE are more irritating than others: I think photo etch looks the best on vehicles, like tanks, less stress and much easier imo than on ship models.

Problem 1: Tiny parts. Some tweeers are better than others. Though I prefer holding thiny parts with my fingers, to avoid part catapulted into nowhere if it springs off the grip with the tweezer.

Problem 2: Application of cyanoacrylate glue. I mainly use a "glue loop", but one can use the tip of a sharp blade to collect a tiny drop of glue, or something else.

Problem 3: Cyanoacrylate glue drying up. I keep my tubes of superglue in a small sealed glass jar filled with silica bags, the moisture in the air makes the glue go hard.

Problem 4: Precision placement of parts is tricky. So tricky, one is wise to use methods for making this easier, like using a small bit of masking tape to hold things in place at the correct position, or use some other water based glue so that you can at least have ample time gluing the part onto the plastic, even if it won't fully stick, then you can add cyanoacrylate glue around the edges if you have to, once your part is somehow fixed properly at the correct place.

Problem 5: Tools. Tamiya diamond file is nice for sanding off stubs off metal parts like photo etch, I have three, as they wear out over time.

Problem 6: Photo etch can be too hard sometimes, and so one can soften it up by exposing the PE to a lighter flame. Works best with parts that aren't thin. Annhealing thin parts = easily destroyed PE parts. Softening the metal is required some times becuase one often just can't bend the PE good enough without softening the metal with a flame.

Problem 7: Safety. Well, anything sharp and adhesie might be bad, best keep control of your hands (and elbows, for your coffee cup on the table), maybe keep them well away from your face, so don't make a habit of scratching your face while also holding a tool. Also, best not have the habit of rubbing your eyes when working with superglue.

Problem 8: I forgot. Painting photo etch with a brush I can only imagine, is not fun. I have used an airbrush for some time and so I never thought about this kind of issue until now as I sit here and write this text.

Problem 9: PE parts can be removed using a debonder agent (liquid, somewhat toxic probably), but imo this liquid tend to soften the plastic, and so using a debonder is undesirable if one want to maintain a perfectly smooth plastic surface finish. One can instead try pry the PE part off using a sharp blade.

Using the minimal amount of cyanoacrylate glue, might be wise at first, so that you can remove the part if you aren't happy with the placement.

wolfgangjb
Nice camo! And the detail on that plane...wow.

Łukasz Gliński
Niiiice 👍

Chris
I am happy that you like my little cutie 😄

Munkyslut
Ahh mate that's just beautiful 😍

Chris
Thanks, I feel honored 😄