Jimmy L
Thanks Munkyslut, Bob, Laurent, Spanjaard

Nigel Chapman
I've tried to buy the The Revell van but prices are way too high. The AMT vans are good And come in short and long wheel based versions but have no lift off roof.

Munkyslut
I looked on eBay Nigel, those bloody Revell Chevy vans are regularly fetching a 100 quid!

Jimmy L
Are these discontinued kits?

Bob Hall
Looooooong Discontinued !

Nigel Chapman
No idea why but the Revell vans tend to hold their price. The first vans I bought 6 plus years ago were around £20. They are Now anything between £30 - 150

Dominik Weitzer
Oh yes, this is very cool. can't remeber, ever one saw built. Well done! like it!

Jimmy L
Thanks Dominik

Dominik Weitzer
Hm, no answer.
Jimmy, i build for examble the full engine and paint it (spraycan) after that i paint Details.
I remove paint not often. while assambeling the undercarriage, i only remove the paint from the mountingpoints from the axles.
I use glue from Revell or Faller. The ones
https://amazon.de/Revell-396..JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
https://amazon.de/Faller-Sup..dCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

the chromeparts...i Always remove the Chrom before glueing

Nigel Chapman
I'm with Dominik, I use Revell glue with the fine needle applicator (I even have a brand new tube from the former Beatties).
Always scrape away paint and chrome plating before gluing.
Another thing I am starting to do is remove all the chrome plating with Mr Muscle oven cleaner then re-chrome with a Molotow chrome pen.

Mike Szwarc
One trick I've used for smaller parts that can't easily be painted after assembly, and also can't easily be scraped is to use matte acrylic medium as glue. I only use acrylic paints, so I don't know if this would work for enamels or lacquers, but the acrylic medium sticks well to acrylic paint, and no scraping or touch-up paint is needed. The only caveat is that the acrylic medium takes longer to set than most glues.

Treehugger
I like to think that society moved on to use Tamiya Extra Thin Cement (liquid). The way you use this liquid glue, is to NOT glue the inside, BUT instead press two plastic parts togehter AND then just add liquid glue on the outside of the seam. Excess glue will mostly evaporate, but don't get any onto clear parts. Then use a sanding stick to try hide the glued seam.

You might as well start considering getting to learn an airbursh, which is easy to clean and to use as long as you learn to avoid some basic mistakes. You must have proper ventilation out of your room to use an airbrush, and some basic extractors can be bought without being overly costly.

Nigel Chapman
Got any pictures ?

Jimmy L
Yes! Will add

Skywalker
Nice

Jimmy L
Thanks Skywalker

Rui S
I stoped to see if this was a real photo??? Great details

Jimmy L
Thanks Rui S

Chaz Gordon
Lots of details, awesome

Jimmy L
Thanks Chaz

Laurent "HELLER-forever"
i like !

Laurent "HELLER-forever"
great

Jimmy L
Thanks Laurent

Skywalker
Use more thinner.

Skywalker
Always let it dry a day between coats.

Chaz Gordon
The rough texture from the first coats may be contributing, first coat should be even and thin, if you were to let it dry, it should be smooth to touch.

Between coat wait time is generally just enough time (however long that might be) for the first coat to become tacky, best way to test for this is to have a test piece and paint that at the same time, then you can touch the test piece to see what it's drying like.

Final coat should be wet enough to allow the slow drying time of enamels to self level the paint, but not wet enough to cause runs.I don't use enamels anymore, but I used to spray Real Trucks with Synthetic paints which behave exactly like enamels, Two tacky coats with a third coat of thinner but wetter paint was how I got a glossy shine out of the gun.

Jimmy L
Thanks Chaz, Skywalker. I think my first coat was too light giving it a texture. Also maybe I didn't wait long enough for subsequent coats. I'll try the test piece idea. For enamels I may need more than 10-13 minutes between coats.