The Hobby Boss Sd.Kfz.223 Recon vehicle build.
The 'Box art' depicts exactly what you get when following the suggestions for the colour scheme and parts required.
First are the diferentials and drive train assembly. There are some issues I will warn you about as to the correct positioning of certain parts.
Here, I made a mistake. The cross member right in the middle here, with the channels cut out for the control rods I put in the wrong way around, but luckily, I was able to create a new 'slot' and carry on with the build.
And , bugger me. I made an other mistake by putting the rod with the hole in it around the wrong way too. The hole you see should be on the other side. But all is good, I filled the hole and drilled a new one on the other side.
LOOK at the instruction, (keep your eye on the ball) and look for what is drawn there.
The 'pivot pins' are to be installed in a most particular way. A16. The pins are "offset", so study the way it looks compared to the drawings, otherwise, all will be screwed up badly.
Also, the 'angle' of the small tip of the drive shaft as it extends past the universal joint. It droopes down a few degrees.
Here. The 'off set' position of the pivot pins is very obvious.
All is how it should be here. 🙂
The engine block has quite a number of parts, and sadly, some are not all that well detailed, but it does go together without any 'issues'. 🙂
The completed 'running gear'. The steering rods that meet the wheel mounts have no recess to fit into, and just 'float', so be careful while handling as they can get snagged and damaged.
You will need to exert some firm pressure to make the fan housing slide 'all the way home'. I suggest a touch of liquid glue to help here, as it is a tight fit.
look carefully here at how flush the insert has gone to make it flush. The same is in the next image of the neat fit.
The floor pan. And, all the fittings here are next. The clutch and brake and throttle have an unusual "sit", so pay close attention to the drawings and you will see what I mean.
Before I had finished here, I failed to see that at the drivers left knee, the square has a spare slot that the hand brake lever fits into. In between the clutch and prake pedals is where the steering column fits.
The rear wall grid and grenade holders are now installed
If you are into making spares from the originals. Then the grenade numbers need improving.
The detail is pretty good really.
The vision blocks have the ability to open and close if need be. It IS possible. Just be patient and it will be well worth the extra effort and patience to get it happening.
The commanders seat and gun system. All parts are perfect in their fit and positions.
The 'jack'. And an other example of , 'a kit within a kit'. 🙂
This grating can be positioned in the open or closed position.
Where I have placed the two thin red lines is the surface that will be in contact with the main body and you can NOT have a gap here. This is why it is SO important to get the bending of the brass exact, and I mean EXACT.
There are two drainage strips that go on the main roof of the vehicle. Again. use reference images to determine the exact position, as not ALL of them had this feature.
This is just before I glued the whole upper hull to the lower hull, as some of you will have noticed the strip of light above the gun and grenades
According to the instructions. The whole interior colour was matt white.
When fitting the exhaust system. Pleas be careful that the parts do NOT come in contact with the body work, but have a small 'space' in between.
There are THREE sheets of PE to deal with and the large step plate is one of them. So, a dedicated PE bending tool is a necessity today, rather than a luxury, IF you want perfect fittings to happen. 🙂
Dry fitting here is Imperative. You will be nibbling smal amounts off to get the flush fit and eliminate any gaps that may happen, and no doubt. YOU WILL. The upright piece of equipment on the edge of the fender is the 'turn indicator'.
The fitting of the head lights, wheels and doors is always the very last thing I do.
The front mud guards/denders are a perfect fit with no gaps to be found or seen. The guard frame over the night light is a very trickey item to install. it has a particular location for each end that contacts the surface of the fender. BE CAREFUL.
I personally think the 'weld' lines are a bit 'heavy'. In scale terms, almost the width of a hand. !! :-O
This kit is what I call a "Little sweetie". easy to build and looks great when finished. 🙂
Shoot the number plate mechanic. NOW. !!! :-~
Comments
22 June 2017, 10:55
Rui SMe too
I've this one and some more 22x on my stash.
Is this one to be seen or is it going to be interrupted, Kezza?
22 June 2017, 22:03
Kerry COXI am posting the build Rui. Just basic steps with a couple of "Heads up" issues I came across, but basically, your straight up build. 🙂
22 June 2017, 23:35
Bart GoesaertLooks good so far. Have the same kit in my stash, by accident though, thought is was a sd.kfz. 222...
23 June 2017, 08:49
Kerry COXBart. You will love building this little gem. I was really pleased with the overall ease of the build, but the fit of all parts was faultless.
23 June 2017, 14:52
Album info
Released in 2010, this kit has held up really well, mostly because of the detail and over supply of 3 sheets of etched metal parts.
The kit is easily built in quick time, and provided you follow your modelling 'instincts' when it comes to 'procedure', it will give you some excellent rewards for taking a little extra care when 'finishing.