Michael .
I was getting ready to start this kit when I noticed something wrong with the decal sheets. LOL. They're for the wrong kit. I contacted ICM and they're sending me the correct sheets.

Michael Kohl
Oh, them decals look wrong indeed 🙂
you should have fun with this kit. I used it for my second attempt at a Bronco and never regretted it a bit. It really is a gem and the Eduard PE parts add to it too.

John
The rare Luftwaffe captured OV-10A? 😄

Spanjaard
LOL 🙂

David Culp
This would be a perfect opportunity to build it as a German OV-10B(Z). 🙂

Michael Kohl
Oh, to convert it to a B is quite a mission.

Michael .
Nope. Just trying to build what my dad flew in Vietnam.

Michael .
I started working on this while my other project dries. So many parts!!! I'm trying to put together the cockpit and get all the parts together that need to be sprayed the base color. I had to stop, as I'm going to lose what part goes where. The Testors kit that I did only had two sprues total and four pages of the actual build. The ICM kit has four pages just on the first part of the cockpit. I'm not complaining. I want the challenge of a good kit, but dayum... Oh, and I also have the PE sets to add. My head is swimming. LOL... So far I'm impressed with this kit. We'll see how it goes deeper into the build. *what did I get myself into*...

Shar Dipree
Looks great so far. Following.

Guy Rump
the time spent on the cockpit was worth it, it looks great! 👍

Rui
I'm not really familiar with the Bronco... Watching 👀

CaptGPF
I agree with guy - the cockpit definitely shows time well spent. Looking forward to seeing the rest of the build - keep up the good work! On a side note - maybe ICM thought you might want to do a 'What If' build using Nazi decals? 😬

Michael .
The decals cleared customs on the 27th and supposedly in the states on the 6th. And now the tracking states this, but I've received nothing... As of 2/9 "Addressee advised to pick up the item: in poststation" ????

CaptGPF
That's a sign…. Time to "What if" the Bronco! 😜

Michael Kohl
You can install the front part of the canopy and mask the rest. It's a bit of a pain, but allows you to continue.

Michael .
Yeah. I was looking at doing that, but then said no. I was also sick as a dog and didn't feel like staying awake either. Laugh... I'm hoping to get the decal sheet today. Have to visit the post office.

Michael .
I got the decals from the post office today. We have our grandson this weekend so it'll be next week before I can get back to work on this. A 23 month old is a handful.

Jennifer Franklin
Following

Michael .
Looking for advice on how to handle the springiness in the canopy plastic and keeping them glued in place

CaptGPF
I share your frustration. I'll be trying out Ultra Glue by Ammo on my next build to see if it is better…

Michael Kohl
My two cents: stay away from Ammos Ultra Glue. It does anything but glue. I purchased it with the same hopes and I don't recall any other chemical product that had me as disappointed as Ammis Ultra Glue. Regular Elmers Glue (or Pinal in Germany), maybe thinned down with water works good, as does carefully applied extra thin cement.
I don't recall any problems with my canopy, but 1:48 might be a different matter.
You'll manage. Fingers crossed.

Michael .
Well, so far I've tried the Micro Krystal Clear, then I tried regular model glue, next I'm going to try CA. The little tabs at the bottom of the front part of the canopy keep popping out. I glued it and left it clamped for 24 hours and it still popped out. I tried MORE glue and the same. I just walked away from it so I don't get to frustrated and completely mess it up. I'll try again sometime this week.

Spanjaard
CA may cause fogging in transparent parts, unless you use very very small drops, and even then there is a chance of fogging.... I suggest to test with some test muel/old model first

CaptGPF
@Michael - dang it! Thanks for the heads up!

Also agree with Spaniard - CA may cause fogging. There were a few times I used Tamika's Quick setting extra thin cement with good results, but you really need to be careful when laying that thin drop…

Shar Dipree
If you can glue the clear parts into an area that will be painted later (i.e. doesn't need to remain clear), try using an adhesive that will weld the parts together, such as: B. Revell Contacta in a tube.

John
Some 5-minute epoxy might work if you can clamp it well. The trick with the epoxy is applying it neatly, I'd suggest a toothpick to mix and a new one to apply. The benefit of epoxy is the relatively quick drying time and it's not as brittle as CA so it can take a little rougher handling.

Michael .
Last night. I glues the lower right of the front canopy with regular modelling glue. This is the part that's been the big hassle the flex from the plastic has broken the bond. I clamped it and then glued the left side canopy with Micro Krystal Clear and clamped it. I'm leaving it for 24 hours before I attempt the right side canopy.

Michael .
I thought I had success. But it was only partial success. I have the front canopy secure. But trying to get the side canopies secure, I messed up the top and the HUD. So I took them off, cleaned them up and put them aside. I found out one of the reasons I'm having issues with the left side canopy is that I put on the PE detail for the canopy latches and I got them a little to close so they interfere with the vertical strut. I have to fix that.

Michael .
Added some more pictures. I'm done with decals. Minus one. I had a blow out on two decals. One I was able to fix, the tiger mouth. However, one decal was a complete failure
and I have a question on picture 51 to everyone to see what I should do.

Michael Kohl
I think that decal no. 6 is a good substitute, if ultimate perfection isn't the goal.

CaptGPF
I agree with Michael. An alternative is to buy decal paper which allows you to print anything you like on it - I love the flexibility it gives me. There is one downside, you can't do this for whites - you have to paint the white on the background first to compensate.

Michael .
I didn't think about printing my own... hmmm...

Michael Kohl
Printing your own decals isn't fire and forget. Check to get the right decal paper for the type of printer you have. If a white background is needed, there is white decal paper. The print has to be sealed (i. e. Microscale Liquid Decal Film). Be sure that the print is really dry before you do that. Those should be the main shortcomings and pitfalls.

Michael .
Looks like I can buy this set aoadecals.com/48020/home.htm and bypass the issues of trying to print my own for now... ??? This has several of the decal I need.

CaptGPF
Wait - there's white decal paper?!?! Genius! Michael is correct, you will want to try them out - and inkjet paper is different from laser jet.

Michael .
I wanted to give a big shout out to Yoda80. I just couldn't move on with this build without the damaged decal. I really didn't want to buy a whole decal sheet for the one decal. I browsed everyone that has built the same model and saw that David used a different paint scheme which did not include the decal I needed. I reached out and he sent me his unused decals. Thank you. This is an awesome community. I will pay it forward whenever the time arises.