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Chris
hat ein neues Fotoalbum hinzugefügt.
hat ein neues Fotoalbum hinzugefügt.
76 Bilder
Caproni 311 / 311M / 313 / 3141:72
Caproni 311 M / Special Hobby / Masking almost done
Projekt: Caproni 311 / 311M / 313 / 314
All comments (29) » 32 19 November 2023, 22:21
Joseph Russo
All looking great I have the Italeri kits as well I cannot bring myself to mask those massive canopies
All looking great I have the Italeri kits as well I cannot bring myself to mask those massive canopies
26 May, 01:42
boywellum
I paint everything by hand, I sometimes use masks if there are ones on the market but generally I find painting canopies isn't that difficult by hand. A thin stiff straight brush, then you can scrape off any slight mistakes with a finger nail.
I paint everything by hand, I sometimes use masks if there are ones on the market but generally I find painting canopies isn't that difficult by hand. A thin stiff straight brush, then you can scrape off any slight mistakes with a finger nail.
26 May, 02:01
Chris
hat ein neues Fotoalbum hinzugefügt.
hat ein neues Fotoalbum hinzugefügt.
All comments (6) » 16 23 April, 21:23
Chris
Thank you Alberto and Joseph Russo! That motivates me to continue on the path. You will see the progress at the Caproni-project 😉
Thank you Alberto and Joseph Russo! That motivates me to continue on the path. You will see the progress at the Caproni-project 😉
26 May, 01:23
May 19, 2024
May 15, 2024
May 11, 2024
Chris
hat diesen Artikel gestartet
hat diesen Artikel gestartet
Bren Gun Carrier & 6pdr Anti-Tank Gun Vintage Classics
Airfix 1:76
A01309V 2018 Neue Verpackung Mehrfachthemen (2)11 May, 22:29
May 5, 2024
Chris
hat ein neues Fotoalbum hinzugefügt.
hat ein neues Fotoalbum hinzugefügt.
4 26 October 2023, 23:02
Bozo
Dornier knew how to make seaplanes and this one is superb in its civil version.
Transparent parts can be improved with polishing pastes
Dornier knew how to make seaplanes and this one is superb in its civil version.
Transparent parts can be improved with polishing pastes
5 May, 11:26
Chris
Thank you. I will try this first. In case of failing I will try vac-forming it. If failing again I think I heard of third party canopies and will make a search.
Thank you. I will try this first. In case of failing I will try vac-forming it. If failing again I think I heard of third party canopies and will make a search.
5 May, 21:45
April 27, 2024
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Chris
besitzt diesen Artikel
besitzt diesen Artikel
Junkers Ju-86R German high altitude reconnaissance and bomber A/C
RS Models 1:72
92277 2022 Neue Verpackung 8 April, 19:05
April 5, 2024
Chris
hat ein neues Fotoalbum hinzugefügt.
hat ein neues Fotoalbum hinzugefügt.
All comments (10) » 24 26 December 2023, 01:24
Chris
Today I finished this car. I am happy how it looks and as I always say: My best model is the one I just finished. I learned a lot and the next one will be better.
hope you enjoyed the build and I want to say thank you for following and watching. 😄
Today I finished this car. I am happy how it looks and as I always say: My best model is the one I just finished. I learned a lot and the next one will be better.
hope you enjoyed the build and I want to say thank you for following and watching. 😄
5 April, 21:58
April 3, 2024
March 27, 2024
Chris
hat diesen Artikel fertiggestellt
hat diesen Artikel fertiggestellt
Apollo-Saturn V 25th Anniversary Of The Moon Landings 1969 - 1994
Airfix 1:144
09170 1994 Neue Verpackung Mehrfachthemen (2)27 March, 00:18
March 26, 2024
Chris
hat ein neues Fotoalbum hinzugefügt.
hat ein neues Fotoalbum hinzugefügt.
All comments (5) » 14 21 January, 21:47
Mike Thomas
Looking good so far, Chris.
The black ring you are referring to was painted on the test vehicles, SA-500, which both Revell and Airfix used as reference for their respective kits. If you're not accurately modelling a specific Saturn V, don't worry about it. As to your other curiosity, the real Saturn V was 363 feet (110.6 meters) tall and weighed an average of 6.3 million pounds (2.8 million kilograms) at takeoff, depending on the mission.
Looking good so far, Chris.
The black ring you are referring to was painted on the test vehicles, SA-500, which both Revell and Airfix used as reference for their respective kits. If you're not accurately modelling a specific Saturn V, don't worry about it. As to your other curiosity, the real Saturn V was 363 feet (110.6 meters) tall and weighed an average of 6.3 million pounds (2.8 million kilograms) at takeoff, depending on the mission.
24 March, 06:55
Chris
Thank you, Mike. That clarified a few things. As I do not want to build a specific Rocket, I agree and don't mind the painting. There are some things I learned during building, so I would have to build a second one, that woukd be more accurate. 😉
Thank you, Mike. That clarified a few things. As I do not want to build a specific Rocket, I agree and don't mind the painting. There are some things I learned during building, so I would have to build a second one, that woukd be more accurate. 😉
24 March, 23:59
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Chris
will diesen Artikel
will diesen Artikel
Double kit
Gotha Go 145C & Focke Wulf Fw 44J Austrian Service Kora Models 1:72
KPK7268 2018 Neue Bauteile Mehrfachthemen (2)11 March, 22:48
Chris
will diesen Artikel
will diesen Artikel
Fiat CR.32 Chirri over Austria.2 Decal options for Italeri and Supermodel
LF Models 1:72
C72227 2018 Neue Bausatzform 11 March, 22:48
Chris
besitzt diesen Artikel
besitzt diesen Artikel
Bren Gun Carrier & 6pdr Anti-Tank Gun Vintage Classics
Airfix 1:76
A01309V 2018 Neue Verpackung Mehrfachthemen (2)11 March, 22:29
March 6, 2024
March 5, 2024
March 4, 2024
Chris
hat diesen Artikel bestellt
hat diesen Artikel bestellt
Bren Gun Carrier & 6pdr Anti-Tank Gun Vintage Classics
Airfix 1:76
A01309V 2018 Neue Verpackung Mehrfachthemen (2)4 March, 22:54
March 3, 2024
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Chris
hat ein neues Fotoalbum hinzugefügt.
hat ein neues Fotoalbum hinzugefügt.
All comments (6) » 4 22 December 2023, 23:56
Treehugger
Some issues working with PE are more irritating than others: I think photo etch looks the best on vehicles, like tanks, less stress and much easier imo than on ship models.
Problem 1: Tiny parts. Some tweeers are better than others. Though I prefer holding thiny parts with my fingers, to avoid part catapulted into nowhere if it springs off the grip with the tweezer.
Problem 2: Application of cyanoacrylate glue. I mainly use a "glue loop", but one can use the tip of a sharp blade to collect a tiny drop of glue, or something else.
Problem 3: Cyanoacrylate glue drying up. I keep my tubes of superglue in a small sealed glass jar filled with silica bags, the moisture in the air makes the glue go hard.
Problem 4: Precision placement of parts is tricky. So tricky, one is wise to use methods for making this easier, like using a small bit of masking tape to hold things in place at the correct position, or use some other water based glue so that you can at least have ample time gluing the part onto the plastic, even if it won't fully stick, then you can add cyanoacrylate glue around the edges if you have to, once your part is somehow fixed properly at the correct place.
Problem 5: Tools. Tamiya diamond file is nice for sanding off stubs off metal parts like photo etch, I have three, as they wear out over time.
Problem 6: Photo etch can be too hard sometimes, and so one can soften it up by exposing the PE to a lighter flame. Works best with parts that aren't thin. Annhealing thin parts = easily destroyed PE parts. Softening the metal is required some times becuase one often just can't bend the PE good enough without softening the metal with a flame.
Problem 7: Safety. Well, anything sharp and adhesie might be bad, best keep control of your hands (and elbows, for your coffee cup on the table), maybe keep them well away from your face, so don't make a habit of scratching your face while also holding a tool. Also, best not have the habit of rubbing your eyes when working with superglue.
Problem 8: I forgot. Painting photo etch with a brush I can only imagine, is not fun. I have used an airbrush for some time and so I never thought about this kind of issue until now as I sit here and write this text.
Problem 9: PE parts can be removed using a debonder agent (liquid, somewhat toxic probably), but imo this liquid tend to soften the plastic, and so using a debonder is undesirable if one want to maintain a perfectly smooth plastic surface finish. One can instead try pry the PE part off using a sharp blade.
Using the minimal amount of cyanoacrylate glue, might be wise at first, so that you can remove the part if you aren't happy with the placement.
Some issues working with PE are more irritating than others: I think photo etch looks the best on vehicles, like tanks, less stress and much easier imo than on ship models.
Problem 1: Tiny parts. Some tweeers are better than others. Though I prefer holding thiny parts with my fingers, to avoid part catapulted into nowhere if it springs off the grip with the tweezer.
Problem 2: Application of cyanoacrylate glue. I mainly use a "glue loop", but one can use the tip of a sharp blade to collect a tiny drop of glue, or something else.
Problem 3: Cyanoacrylate glue drying up. I keep my tubes of superglue in a small sealed glass jar filled with silica bags, the moisture in the air makes the glue go hard.
Problem 4: Precision placement of parts is tricky. So tricky, one is wise to use methods for making this easier, like using a small bit of masking tape to hold things in place at the correct position, or use some other water based glue so that you can at least have ample time gluing the part onto the plastic, even if it won't fully stick, then you can add cyanoacrylate glue around the edges if you have to, once your part is somehow fixed properly at the correct place.
Problem 5: Tools. Tamiya diamond file is nice for sanding off stubs off metal parts like photo etch, I have three, as they wear out over time.
Problem 6: Photo etch can be too hard sometimes, and so one can soften it up by exposing the PE to a lighter flame. Works best with parts that aren't thin. Annhealing thin parts = easily destroyed PE parts. Softening the metal is required some times becuase one often just can't bend the PE good enough without softening the metal with a flame.
Problem 7: Safety. Well, anything sharp and adhesie might be bad, best keep control of your hands (and elbows, for your coffee cup on the table), maybe keep them well away from your face, so don't make a habit of scratching your face while also holding a tool. Also, best not have the habit of rubbing your eyes when working with superglue.
Problem 8: I forgot. Painting photo etch with a brush I can only imagine, is not fun. I have used an airbrush for some time and so I never thought about this kind of issue until now as I sit here and write this text.
Problem 9: PE parts can be removed using a debonder agent (liquid, somewhat toxic probably), but imo this liquid tend to soften the plastic, and so using a debonder is undesirable if one want to maintain a perfectly smooth plastic surface finish. One can instead try pry the PE part off using a sharp blade.
Using the minimal amount of cyanoacrylate glue, might be wise at first, so that you can remove the part if you aren't happy with the placement.
25 December 2023, 08:52
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