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justin Hart (JHartModelworks)

Tamiya Honda NSX (90's ver)


6 | 15. February, 03:26
Christian W
Great color! Your detail work is awesome! The brakee looking fantastic. Your detail work on all the parts is fantastic too.
I'm not a fan of the gray interior. It's not that bd but I'd have the dashboard black, the door panels at least black with grey inserts so the seats could bei gray too. My taste 😉 Don't missunderstand me: the work at all is great!

What I don't like most is the hight of the supsension. I'd have it lowered like you showed it during the process. It seams like there is a problem at the rear axle. The wheel "makes what it wants" I'd describe it. Furtheron I don't like that the rims are wider than the body.
21. May, 07:04
Gee S
Love the aftermarket wheels. What color did you use to paint them?
21. May, 11:05
justin Hart
Hi Gee, The wheels are Alclad Copper. I tried the Zero Paints te37 bronze and it just didn't feel like bronze to me. Thanks
21. May, 13:04
justin Hart
Hi Christian. Thanks for the feedback.

The interior: The instructions call for black. Most Japanese car interiors are black. For the most part I will not paint a black interior unless I am replicating a very specific car. Black absorbs light and at scale in a closed car it's hard enough to see detail as it is. a black interior with no light bouncing around and you see nothing inside. Might as well just paint the glass black and call it a curb side. Usually I do some shade of tan, or brown, but that didn't feel right to me for this car. Sometimes I will do a dark grey. I actually intended the interior to be a darker grey than what I got. I probably should have gone 3:1 black to grey. Splash's interior grey is damn near white. I felt grey was a better choice and I like the blue accents, it breaks up an otherwise monotonous interior.

Suspension: Where it sits is Tamiya's default geometry. The way they made the suspension, trying to modify it cleanly would have been difficult at best. I could have just glued the brakes to the wheels and glues the wheels slightly higher in the chassis, maybe. But I couldn't get much lower or the suspension will interfere with the wheel, and having suspension with an axel running into the bottom of a wheel on the under side of a kit is kinda tacky looking. The suspension shown in the progress pics is literally the body resting on the tires. I guess you could glue it on like that. Again either, he brakes wouldn't be centered in the wheels, or the wheels wouldn't be located correctly in the suspension, and realistically on a 1:1 you're going through a lot of expensive tires like that.

Wheels protruding past the body: I absolutely agree with you here, and this was an oversight on my part. The original wheels are convex which pushes the outer edge of the wheel inside the body. I wasn't paying attention to the original kit wheels when I chose the TE-37s which are concave. They pushed the outer edge of the wheel further out, resulting in the wheels sticking outside the body. By the time I had realized the problem I already had the suspension painted and glued in place and I figured I would cause much more damage trying to cut down the suspension mount points that were already in the chassis. Every build is a learning processes, right?

21. May, 13:33
Christian W
Thank you for the words and detailed feedback.

I'm glad, that yo pick up my 'critics' in a good way. Thank you.

The comment about the lighter interior makes s lot of sense! I never saw it from this point. Nice. I'll overthink that on my future builds. Great hint and comment.

To be honest, I didn't check the construction of the suspension on my NSX. It is always a challenge to lower a model kit in a proper way. My goal is still to be able to roll the wheels and - like you wrote - the brakes have to be in the center of the rim.

As you closed your comment: definitely it is a learning process from kit to kit. If it weren't, it probably will be boring at one point.
I like your NSX nevertheless. The paint and paintjob is awesome. The details are so good, I couldn't get enoughf to watch the pictures. I like the slightly body modification too because it's kind of understatement.
21. May, 15:39
justin Hart
Unless someone is just being obviously intentionally rude, I always try to approach critique with the mindset that, even if I don't agree with them, the person is offering advice with the intent to help me be a better modeler.

If I have reasons for what I did, like above, I present those reasons in as friendly a tone as I can, and I go on with my day having maybe learned a thing, maybe taught a thing, or maybe just had an interaction with another human which I do so rarely working from home like I do now.

Thanks for the feedback and I'm glad you like the paint job.
Have a great weekend 🙂
22. May, 01:18
Jimmy L
Great job! I'm starting the same kit. Which colors did you use for the underbody? Also how did you paint the disc brakes so perfectly with the scratches?
9. June, 01:01
justin Hart
The brakes are actually Hobby designs ap racing brake kit. I replaced the kit brakes with. replacing the brakes and wheels caused some fit issues. but the scratches are done by mounting the PE discs to a dremmel grinding wheel with double sided tape and sanding them while they spin. you have to get them centered perfectly though so the scratches aren't off.

I have in the past made my own metal brake surfaces using soda can aluminum, cut the inner and outer circle, mount them to a rotary tool cutting blade or grinding bit, and sand them, then cut the rings to fit your brakes.

Edit: sorry wrong car, on the NSX I went with tamiya lp-38 flat aluminum for the under tray with some parts in sg black. I think it was all supposed to be SG black and I wanted more variation so I went with different colors on suspension pieces and in my head the "owner made some mods to the suspension parts"
12. June, 05:46


1:24 Honda NSX (Tamiya 24100)

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