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Not bad Brian, If I may suggest applying a black pin wash to make the details pop, and take it to the next level.😉
"I have you now!"
Thanks JD, made up a pin wash last night with some oil paint and white spirits, I hope to get some pics later!
Did you paint it or is it the plastic I see?
Thanks for dropping by Torsten and Carlos! Yeah the kit is coloured grey so you don't *have* to paint that, just the black.
Pin wash added, new pics if you're interested. Yes, some tidying left to do!
There you go! Makes a big difference 👍
It does JD, thank you! 🙂 I learned a lot by mixing that pin wash up myself. I think enamel paint would be better than oil paint for home made washes. Might need to add a little more and see how it goes.
Oh this does put a different complexion on things, and actually might explain how I havent had a great finish so far! It's great to hear it's not just me....Would white spirits work?
I love this interaction and feedback guys, thank you all!
Will try get some iPA in the pharmacist today too.
IPA works good with Tamiya acrylics for example (for airbrushing at least), but as Augie said, maybe not a good idea with Mr hobby
Hi Brian, try the IPA first see how you get on. Dont mix it into the pot, but take some of the paint out of the pot and try mixing it with ipa.
I've given up on this for now. I just can't get a finish I'm happy with, 2 coats on this since. Chalking up to experience! 🙂
Wondering if anyone has any leads on a decal sheet for this aircraft in Harbour Air livery? It's a Canadian airline which runs a lot of seaplanes/floatplanes and I'd like to mark this kit up in their colours. 🙂
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1) Needle size (I use 0.35 iirc), but perhaps too large for painting figures and tiny stuff. I also have a 0.5 neelde airbrush, but I really never use it. Maybe I could start using it for gloss coats, unsure.
2) Quality. Well, a cheap airbrush might work, but if the needle isn't always centered, you might end up with clogging in my experience. And then you might end up buying more than one cheap airbrush,
3) I prefer a self centereing nozzle (Iwata HP-CS Eclipse), one large nozzle that is easier to clean because it isn't super tiny nor something you have to screw off. Also expensive if/when you replace it.
4) Never rub the tip of a fragile nozzle, not even with the skin of your fingers (that was a lot of money out the window one day, it happened unintentionlally)
5) Forget about siphon feed airbrush (bottom fed), instead get one with gravity fed paint with a paint cup on top.
6) Size of paintcup on top, ought to be, not too small, or you can't airbrush much stuff without refilling, and maybe not too large, if you are airbrushing smaller scale models and not t-shirts or very large models.
7) I am only familiar with an aircompressor with a tank. Faller/SilAir some older model.
8) You will need the typical airbrush "pot", for both cleaning (spraying into), and it also functions as a stand.
9) You will need a spray booth with proper ventilation, or risk contaminating your room and/or iimpacting your health negatively imho.
10) I only use acrylic paint (Vallejo) which is much less obnoxious/noxious/toxic than enamel paint and I am happy with it.
11) Vallejo primer paint, ought to be always sifted into a mixing jar to remove small flakes of dried paint, or risk major clogging issues. I have now, zero, clogging issues doing it this way when airbrushing Vallejo primer paint.
I think the biggest issue here, is aquiring a spray booth that vents outside an open window, via a 1m hose or somesuch. Hopefully you won't have neighbours that will complain about that kind of activity next to them.
A typical airbrush is 'dual action'. I.e press down for full air, and pull back for adjusting flow/amount of paint. Some have an additional function, like adjusting the air on the airbrush but this can also be done with a valve on the end of the airbrush, connected to the air hose from the air compressor.
You might want to, at some point, want a paint limiter. This is usually a rotating knob at the end of the airbrush handle, which sets a limit to how far back you can pull the knob when airbrushing, thus limiting the flow of paint. Sometimes it is good to know that you don't risk putting on too much paint on accident or being overly eager. For my Iwata airbrush, I had to buy such a paint limiter as an accesory.
Always have a spare needle and a spare nozzle around, just for that one day, you do something stupid when handling your airbrush.
What do you want to do with it? I mean, only larger areas or also freehand camos? Which scale?
In short: whoever saves here pays twice. Better buy something good right away
@treehugger thanks so much, that's lots to think about, plenty of food and I appreciate your answer and the time you took.
Similarly, thank you very much @roland . I think you're right about saving once and buying twice. I am doing 1.72 models now but have some big flat 1:35 armour in the stash too.
Could one save on a compressor and buy a good brush?
You will want to have a spray booth. Even the airbrush cleaning liquid is nasty, if you use the Vallejo airbrushing cleaner liquid.
It sounds like it is definitely an investment, so!
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I've yet to do a tank but I think that looks pretty good!
Thank you Tom! It's my first, I enjoyed it. I'm working on a jagdpanzer just now and apart from the repetition from the amount of wheels and fun with tracks, I've found them fun to build and paint.
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Already lost a drive sprocket!!
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Are spares a thing? It's a trumpeter kit, 1:72 Jagdpanther. I have a plan to try to scratch build something close with some old watch parts....
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Hello Welcome here Gentleman 🙂
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