North American F-51D Mustang Korean War
- Subject:
North American F-51D-20-NT Mustang
US Air Force (1947-now)
12 FBS, 18 FBG 44-12943/FF-943
1952 - Chinhae
NMF- Scale:
- 1:48
- Status:
- Completed
- Started:
- July 8, 2017
Tamiya - Nr. 61044 North American F-51D Mustang Korean War
Сборка прошла быстро и просто. Как и все модели Тамии. Сборка из коробки, без дополнений, даже кабину фототравлением не доробатывал.
Модель "выходного дня". То есть, вот захотелось собрать что-нибудь быстро, просто и с удовольствием.
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The assembly was quick and easy. Like all Tamiya models. Assembly out of the box, without additions, even the cabin phototracking did not work.
The "weekend" model. That is, I wanted to collect something quickly, simply and with pleasure.
1) Fine SurFace Primer (L)
2) XF-1 Flat Black + X-20A thinner (50\50)
3) XF-16 Flat Aluminum + X-22clear+ X-20A thinner (2\1\2)
Now I will highlight some areas
4) Selection of areas for clarification ( TAMIYA art87035)
5) XF-16 Flat Aluminum + X-22clear+ X-20A thinner + some XF-2 flat white
6) I did not like the result of the highlight. I, apparently, added a lot of white paint and the areas began to look unnatural.
I decided to try to blow out the highlight on X -11 (Chrome Silver) + X-22clear+ X-20A thinner.
If it does not work out - i'll have to remove all the paint with the help of Lacquer Thinner Tamia. I do not think I can straighten out the filters if X-11 did not help
photo № 8
7) After X-11 the result satisfied me. I wanted a little more contrast, but this option is not bad either. It was necessary to add a little XF-1 to x-11
photo № 9
8) I painted the details and applied decals. Covered with a glossy varnish (x-22 + x20a 50|50), it will dry out - and I completely cover it with a mixture of oil paint and x20 tamiya. I'll put the filters on after I shed the shading
9) Made a mixture of oil paint and white spirits.
In the process, for some unknown reason, I damaged several deciles 🙁 I do not know ... or I will look for new decals or simply paint the blanks with paint.
10) Decals corrected the paint. Searching for new ones is long and problematic.
Covered with a matte varnish in order to apply oil points and other weathering.
Project inventory
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Materials
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Photoalbums
Part of my Collection
Comments
Andrey Suhar11) Fine SurFace Primer (L)
2) XF-1 Flat Black + X-20A thinner (50\50)
3) XF-16 Flat Aluminum + X-22clear+ X-20A thinner (2\1\2)
Now I will highlight some areas
4) Selection of areas for clarification ( TAMIYA art87035)
5) XF-16 Flat Aluminum + X-22clear+ X-20A thinner + some XF-2 flat white
Andrey Suhar16) I did not like the result of the highlight. I, apparently, added a lot of white paint and the areas began to look unnatural.
I decided to try to blow out the highlight on X -11 (Chrome Silver) + X-22clear+ X-20A thinner.
If it does not work out - i'll have to remove all the paint with the help of Lacquer Thinner Tamia. I do not think I can straighten out the filters if X-11 did not help
photo № 8
Andrey Suhar17) After X-11 the result satisfied me. I wanted a little more contrast, but this option is not bad either. It was necessary to add a little XF-1 to x-11
photo № 9
Andrey Suhar17) I painted the details and applied decals. Covered with a glossy varnish (x-22 + x20a 50|50), it will dry out - and I completely cover it with a mixture of oil paint and x20a tamiya.Prshche speaking prepared for the spill. I'll put the filters on after I shed the shading
Wim van der Luijtgood looking F(P)-51....didn't know they used these in Korea as well...like the big shark mouth!
Andrey Suhar19) Made a mixture of oil paint and white spirits.
In the process, for some unknown reason, I damaged several deciles 🙁 I do not know ... or I will look for new decals or simply paint the blanks with paint.
Andrey Suhar110) Decals corrected the paint. Searching for new ones is long and problematic.
Covered with a matte varnish in order to apply oil points and other weathering.