KV-1E
Unfortunately got a „bad egg“ with quite ugly bulges between the rivets.
Scraped and cured with Cement/ Mr.500
Scraped and cured with Cement/ Mr.500
By luck the bolts stayed preserved and in shape.
A bit of the bulge is still visible, might tackle it with more scraping or cover with weathering.
This issue only affected this specific kit all others do not have this error in molding. (Checked my mighty KV stash)
A bit of the bulge is still visible, might tackle it with more scraping or cover with weathering.
This issue only affected this specific kit all others do not have this error in molding. (Checked my mighty KV stash)
All pieces received a texture and where appropriate, flame cut marks.
Removed almost all molded weld beads as well.
Due to additional armor only some parts will be visible but still add a nice texture appearance after all which will create a overall distinction between the different plates and sections.
Removed almost all molded weld beads as well.
Due to additional armor only some parts will be visible but still add a nice texture appearance after all which will create a overall distinction between the different plates and sections.
First Friuls, way better than expected. Minimal cleanup & sanding.
Patina/ Burnishing from local artist store does the trick same as any scale modeling related products.
To Avoid fitting issues: used 0,15 styrene sheets as spacers to allign the hull parts to have identical gaps.
The plastic itself is very good, quite hard and does not mind being carved, drilled etc.
The plastic itself is very good, quite hard and does not mind being carved, drilled etc.
Holders for towing hooks are very badly molded.
Will cover them in multiple layers with putty till the thickness is somehow aligned and sand the rest.
Reference pics show them quite roughly manufactured so this might do the texture trick.
Will cover them in multiple layers with putty till the thickness is somehow aligned and sand the rest.
Reference pics show them quite roughly manufactured so this might do the texture trick.
Covered the three holes (supposed for fixing the original kit part)
with styrene sheet to have a solid base for attaching the PE part replacement.
with styrene sheet to have a solid base for attaching the PE part replacement.
Each suspension arm had a slightly misalignment in the mold, lots of scraping, sanding and putty.
This kit proved to be a really bad egg so far (from all KVs in my stash I checked none other has this issue)
Same goes for some parts of the suspension, wheels, towing holders.
First dry fit showed as well a minor issue with whole suspension, both return rollers are not straight.
At least the fruil tracks proved to be a real win and are quite a joy to built. They fit like a glove.
This kit proved to be a really bad egg so far (from all KVs in my stash I checked none other has this issue)
Same goes for some parts of the suspension, wheels, towing holders.
First dry fit showed as well a minor issue with whole suspension, both return rollers are not straight.
At least the fruil tracks proved to be a real win and are quite a joy to built. They fit like a glove.
Same story on the wheels, misalignments, and lots of flash.
This built will take up a lot more time than anticipated.
This built will take up a lot more time than anticipated.
Friul ATL-10 dryfit, the track perfectly fits the sprocket.
Gave up on correcting the issue with the bulges between the vertical rivets.
Covered up most of it with Mr.500. This part will probably receive a nice huge blanket,... ; )
Covered up most of it with Mr.500. This part will probably receive a nice huge blanket,... ; )
Masterclub bolts 0,8mm, these extremely well made and quite a bargain.
My camera could not capture any more detail than this.
I guess these just fall under “must have” for Russian AFV.
My camera could not capture any more detail than this.
I guess these just fall under “must have” for Russian AFV.
Voyager Fenders, Instructions are a bit “fiddly” since no left/ right indication letter system is quite confusing, not my cup of tea.
Assemble like the real thing which opens quite a decent option to simulate wear & tear.
Still highly recommended!
Assemble like the real thing which opens quite a decent option to simulate wear & tear.
Still highly recommended!
... having fun while the oils dry.
Not great, not terrible
Decided to redo the whitewash on the rear and give this built a new face.
Clean slate and a color correction.
Comments
29 12 August 2020, 09:26
Jean-Christophe ZeusVery nice! I'm suspecting you have watched Nightshift's channel on YT intently! I did too, but I don't get the same effect on rolled armor plates yet. Maybe I should mix more cement into the putty.
Here are some useful tips from Neil Stokes, the author of the very good book "KV Technical History & Variants": 4bogreen.com/kv-series/recipes/kv-1-model-1940
12 August 2020, 13:06
mannmitbrille wasdThank you,
Someone else reminded me of tamiya putty.
Using 2 layers, one overall with small flat brush and a second one with roundbrush on random spots, so you get an uneven result.
1st is quite liquid 2nd is just a little bit cement and just stippled on the surface thats it.
For cleanup/ brushes and kit: Mr. Hobby Leveling thinner, which even can be used to thin the putty. Actually works too but needs more layers. But be careful it can dissolve the previous layers.
Than sanding and washing (yes fully with soap and brush) the effect shows almost instant.
Thank you for the site, read it already quite informative compared to most other reviews.
There is a KV group on FB which I can recommend as well. (There is only one)
12 August 2020, 13:21
mannmitbrille wasdThank you,
you are putting me under pressure ???? I'm a slow builder.
Joke aside, shure will try to upload process if interest.
There is lots of PE and a lot of minor upgrades. ( I will redo most of the bolts from the applied armor next)
12 August 2020, 14:59
Jean-Christophe ZeusRegarding the misalignment and flahs issues: they were also present on some parts of the kit I'm building: the 1942 version with the simplified welded turret. I guess that's to be expected from a kit that Trumpeter propbably produced more of than any other in their product line. Especially the sprues that are included in all variants of the kit. OTOH it's dirt cheap, so a little extra work is OK I think.
21 August 2020, 06:54
mannmitbrille wasdWell I did not expect to use so much putty and clean up that much, its every part you touch has something which needs to be addressed.
Checked the other KVs sprues (Heavy cast, small turret, 747r, lightweight & simplified) this one in particular has a ton of not aligned molds and parts which stuck to the mold before the plastic cooled off.
I do not mind working to get a good result, but in some cases it was a bit redicolous. Especially the bulges between the riveted engine deck, where annoying.
21 August 2020, 16:12
Jean-Christophe ZeusOK, that was not the case with my kit. You did a wonderful job fixing these issues!
If I may suggest these minor corrections (easy to fix): as per Neil Stokes' book, there should be only two lifting eyes on the transmission compartment roof plate, not four. The additional ones were added later, so the rear ones should be omitted.
The armoured shield in front of the bow machine gun and the collar around the antenna base should have each have a small square drain hole at the bottom, to prevent rain water to collect in those places.
7 September 2020, 08:12
mannmitbrille wasdHi,
thank you, and honestly would not have solved it without trusty putty & sanding sponge. ; )
I found the engine deck bulge by closer inspection on one more kit the 754r has it unfortunately too. The wheels are ok. But next time fixing this issue should be easier.
Yes shure, a few pointed (KV group) out the lifting rings on the engine deck, went with the wrong later KV references since the KV-1E in Parola is way too modified in my opinion and most pictures are kind of blurry (Andreas Larka site)
Thanks for the drainage hint, on most pictures it looked like parts which deteriorated from rust.
Should be an easy fix.
I found other little details if it matters to you:
1. the swing arms should have each a round rubber bumper on the bottom. Pretty easy as well.
2. one MG mount has flat bolts, where there should be conical ones (Masterclub has an amazing range of resin bolts, perfect for Russian armor, waiting for them to arrive)
3. there should be three U shaped "hooks" on the rounded armored backside of the engine deck
4. There should be a small hole on each of the movable round periscopes
Best & thanks for the hint!
7 September 2020, 15:22
Jean-Christophe ZeusThanks for pointing these out: I was only aware of #4. Can you point to references about #1 and #3? I don't think these are mentioned in the book. #2 I will check for myself. Good to know about the bolts from Master Club!
8 September 2020, 14:13
mannmitbrille wasdHi,
Welcome!
I went to those dark russian websites where people discuss the width of a single bolt in quite elaborate threads,...
Sorry my bad 1. this round rubber bumper should be not under swingarm, under the bumpers (and there goes my english on mechanical terms,...) of the swingarms.
3. I have picture from Military Museum in Moscow I think and from another Russian Museum.
Bolts: As soon as they arrive/ can share some picture. A very nice fellow modeler pointed them out, found almost the whole range at dersockelshop.de
9 September 2020, 03:46
Jean-Christophe ZeusGlad to see you got your Masterclub bolts. Looking forward to see the replacements on the kit.
14 September 2020, 09:25
mannmitbrille wasdMe too, quite some work ahead.
Genuinely suprised by the quality, detail and pricing of these bolts.
14 September 2020, 10:46
Jean-Christophe ZeusNot 100% sure, but the placement of the Balkenkreuz matches: during spring 1942, Panzerregiment 10 of 8. Panzerdivision captured 3 ekhranamys in Cholm, south of Leningrad. They kept them for about a year, but they were definitely gone by May 1943. Found a few pictures in the KV book, in the section about captured tanks. HTH
17 October 2020, 18:09
mannmitbrille wasdHi,
there are couple of them on the website even with a bit elaborate markings, finally cleared the question why one picture has so many light spots (its extremely faded whitewash)
Will be a nice practice.
22 October 2020, 18:11
Jean-Christophe ZeusVery nice! First the distressed paint effects and then the winter camouflage.
9 November 2020, 16:27
Jean-Christophe ZeusA small detail that I haven't noticed before: have you cut off some of the bolts on the turret skirts to reposition them? AFAIK, Trumpeter oriented them all in the same manner, whereas in reality they were random. That's one point where the old Tamiya kit was superior.
If so, KUDOS for your attention to detail!
I wonder if I should also add small rings to the lifting hooks on the engine and transmission roof plates, as you did. Where they present as a rule?
11 November 2020, 15:29
mannmitbrille wasdHaha,
you are the first to notice yes, actually quite a few.
Sideplates and lower plates as well, as I was a bit bored.
Honestly no clue, most vehicles I saw had them so I just added them, just watch out the two at the rear are not supposed to be mounted on earlier vehicles. Removed them after someone pointed it out.
11 November 2020, 16:41
Harvey H.W.Look at those rivets…weldings…tracks…It is too good！Many details and full of characteristics！
8 December 2020, 18:06
mannmitbrille wasd@Harvey
I swear I did not count the rivets : )
Thank you much appreciated!
8 December 2020, 19:06
Jean-Christophe ZeusWell that's a real surprise! Were you not happy with the wonderfully grimy whitewash camo? I sure would have. But the distressed 4BO is nice, too!
22 March 2022, 12:48
mannmitbrille wasd@Jean,
The longer I looked at it, the more is was displeased with parts of the results.
Additional they found the real vehicle, it was not in german grey ; )
Lets call it a funny exercise.
23 March 2022, 09:56
Jean-Christophe ZeusIs this a new set of tracks? On previous pictures they were already weathered and now I see blank metal ones on the last pictures?
5 April 2022, 08:13
