Chieftain Mk8 C, Berlin Urban Pattern Camo

Duncan Cook
Nice work Hauke.

Hauke Krapf


Hi all,

this project I had finished last year. I had shown it last year at the GMM at Würzburg.

I decided not to paint it but show it in its ?natural beauty?!

The paint job was very time consuming as one may expect! Quite a lot of masking and re-taping was required. At the end it was one of the projects with the longest duration in completing it!

Don?t ask me where I got the resin parts from. This project had developed to a ?shelf queen? over the years. I remember that I had started it in 1994 but had lost interest in it and in consequence put it aside hidden in my cellar for year.

My intention is to give you just a word of clarification.
I used the TAMIYA side skirts, or as sometimes referred to as "bazooka plates"!

If I had to do it again, I would ask Derek Hanson from AA for a set of their side skirts, as the TAMIYA approach in mounting the side skirts is bull-shit, as described its best!
TAMIYA had in mind to motorize this kit that required simplifying the side skirts mountings!
In consequence all the mounting plates on top of the skirts had to be cut from plastic strips and detailed with punched out bolts!

Once upon a time?????, that?s how fairy-tales start.

Do you remember ?Snow-White? when you were a young. She was kissed back to life!

That?s what happened with this kit! Literally spoken!

Finally I finished it and I must say I?m more than satisfied with the result.

Greetings

Hauke

Duncan Cook
Diese Berlin Tarnung kam meines Wissens nach gegen Ende der Dienstzeit bei der Royal Army auf stimmt das? Und wieviel Aufwand müsste ich betreiben um den Airfix Mk:I in einen MK.8c umzubauen?
Ds wäre ganz toll wenn du mri da helfen könntest.

Hauke Krapf


Duncan,

ja, da liegst Du richtig. Diese Tarnung hatte der OIC der D Sqn, 4/7 DG im Jahre 1982 eingeführt, welche damals die British Armoured Squadron in Berlin stellte. Aus diesem Grund macht es nur Sinn einen Chieftain Mk8C zu verwenden. 1987/88 als 14/20 Hussars dann die British Armoured Squadron in Berlin stellte wurde dann der Chieftain MK10 eingeführt, mit der Stillbrew Zusatzpanzerung.

Ich füge Dir nun eine Liste mit den notwendigen Änderungen ein.
Englisch beherrscht Du ja perfekt.

It is worth being aware of the fact that the modifications required to Tamiya?s kit depend on the period being modelled. I would suggest that there are four main types that one might consider:

1. Detailing the Tamiya kit of the Mk.3 to include the items which Tamiya omitted for reasons of moulding limitations and cost but keeping it as a Mk.3
2. Updating the kit to the ?as built? configuration of the Mk.5 (the final build model)
3. Updating the kit?s ?as built? configuration to the upgraded configuration of the Mk.6 (i.e. IFCS, new transmission decks etc.). Mk.5s rebuilt to this standard appear to be Mk.7
4. Updating to Stillbrew & TOGS fit (I haven?t covered this here, as it is a major rebuild and mine is an earlier version. Bear in mind that Stillbrew pre-dated TOGS, so the latter is not obligatory

Most of the details can be seen in published photographs if you look carefully, although when I did my research, this was not the case. The vehicles that I examined were all type 2. onwards but most of the points in 1. were present also, so here goes (this is largely from memory, so I may miss a few):

Hull

Mk.3

1. Replace the glacis splashguard with one with a bend near the top and add the stays which attach it to the headlight guards
2. Replace the rear portion of the headlight guards with ones which project further back
3. Replace the wading rail with 1mm x 1mm U section brass
4. Add the hooks for the wading trunking (one on glacis, one on exhaust box, one on LHS and two on RHS)
5. Add the hull fire extinguisher handles and brackets between the first and second trackguard stowage bins each side
6. Add the retaining clip for the driver?s hatch when open
7. Replace the splashguards either side of the driver?s periscope
8. Add the trunking for the dozer blade inboard of the right front stowage bins
9. Add wing mirrors to the front trackguards
10. Add the retaining catch for the open driver?s hatch on the glacis and its protective plate
11. Add hasps and padlocks to all stowage bins
12. Rebuild the intake on top of the exhaust box on the hull rear
13. Rebuild the armoured box for the telephone on exhaust box on the hull rear (it is easier to just rebuild the exhaust box as well, or there will be a hole where the telephone comes off) as it is spaced off the exhaust box on four threaded posts
14. Add hooks for two spare tracklinks on the rear face of the exhaust box
15. Rebuild the inner ends of the rear mudguards, which are the wrong shape
16. Add the pressed ?X? reinforcement to the sides of the hull rear stowage bins
17. Rebuild the light clusters on top of the rear mudguards, as they should not be identical both sides
18. Add the rests for the opened outer panels of the transmission covers inboard of the long stowage bins on the hull sides
19. Add the threaded socket to the top of the ?T? shaped panel over the engine
20. Replace the triangular panel at the right front of the engine deck (over the engine breathers) with a louvred one
21. Add the brackets which are used to bolt the trackguard bins to the trackguards. Those between the square and triangular bin are attached to the fire extinguisher pull handle brackets
22. Remove all the lifting handles on the louvred engine and transmission covers, add mesh covers to them and replace the lifting handles from wire or rod
23. Add tow small attachment points (like towing/lifting eyes) to the extreme front of the glacis, for the dozer blade
24. Add a bazooka plate support arm between the front roadwheel and idler
25. Replace the bazooka plate brackets on the hull sides
26. If the bazooka plates are to be fitted, replace them with brass or plastic sheet
27. If the bazooka plates are to be omitted, rebuild the outer ends of the support arms to the correct pattern

Mk.5

1. Replace the entire transmission covers with the new version, which has two central lift out panels horizontally and shorter outer hinged panels, and build up the hull rear plate and rear of the ?T? piece above the engine
2. Replace the exhaust pipes with a more curved version and flanged outer ends
3. Remove all but the lower horizontal of the wading rail from behind the transverse depression stop rail on the engine decks
4. Replace the gun crutch with a version similar to that used on Challenger, but with longer pivoting arms
Plus all the above

Mk.6 or 7 or 8
As for Mk.5

Turret

Mk.3

1. Rebuild the base and cover for the loader?s periscope. The latter can come from a Challenger.
2. Add the polygonal overpressure relief valve cover behind the commander?s cupola
3. Add the two blocks with threaded holes below the gun mantlet for removing the 120mm barrel
4. Extend the thermal sleeve as far forward as the rear of the fume extractor
5. Rebuild the turret stowage baskets, or at least the way they are attached to the turret as they are attached by brackets not welded direct to the turret side
6. Add the armoured pipe and housing below the LHS stowage basket which supplies power to the searchlight
7. Replace the cover for the commander?s sight
8. Add a cable from the block on the left of the cupola to the commander?s GPMG
9. Add a cable from the rhomboidal block on the right of the cupola to the commander?s spotlight
10. Add two cable guides to the top outer ends of the turret rear plate
11. Add the stop for the searchlight door to the door front
12. Add the four lifting rings (there are at least two versions) to the top of the searchlight housing
13. Cut the top face of the searchlight housing from the inner rear corner, perpendicularly to the front and rear, to a point directly forward of it and immediately behind the front plate. There should be a small overlap of the front plate compared to the inner edge of the top plate. Fill the inside face of the searchlight
14. Add the three blocks on the turret (two forward, one behind) that support the searchlight, and the brackets on the light and their associated bolts.
15. Add a hasp to the central part of the join in the loader?s hatch
16. Replace the brackets for the smoke dischargers with ones made from flat section strip
17. Detail the right side and rear faces of the gunner?s sight
18. Add a pad to the inside of the forward loader?s hatch and a strip inside the join between front and rear hatches
19. Rebuild one side of each of the smoke discharger clusters to represent the correct cast shape
20. Drill (carefully) down the fixing wheel on the top of the commander?s spotlight
bracket to give the impression that it is a ring
21. Add the brackets to the commander?s stowage bin to space it off the turret and fill the inner face to avoid a hollow appearance

Mk.5

1. Add the rectangular (instead of the polygonal design) overpressure relief valve cover behind the commander?s cupola
2. Replace the rectangular gun control equipment cover behind the commander?s cupola with a trapezoidal design, with handles on the edges
3. Replace the 120mm barrel with an L11A3 or A5 version, similar to that from a Challenger. If you use a Challenger gun, extend the cover to the mirror housing on the muzzle so that the base is in line with the tip of the muzzle. The slope of the rear of the mirror housing is also too shallow and needs re-angling or preferably cutting back to represent the mirror housing and having a cover added to represent the rubber sheet version
4. Add the light projector next to the gunner?s sight and the cable and its cover which join the two
5. Replace the left side turret stowage basket with a larger design which extends out to the edge of the searchlight. Some had a plate joining the basket to the light. At some point, the basket was apparently modified with a downwards extension in the front outside corner for a container of NBC decontaminant (like a large fire extinguisher, as on Challenger) and stowage on the underside of the basket for the associated tool roll.
6. Add mesh inserts for both stowage baskets.
7. Remove all detail from the cupola top outside the raised concentric ring and add a ring of thin plastic sheet to extend its diameter. The front portion is bent down to maintain the field of view of the commander?s sight.
8. Replace the NBC pack with the No.6 Mk.2 design
9. Replace the antenna bases with the Clansman type (as found in Challenger but there are actually six and not four webs below the rubber upper part
10. Add the various small radio-related details to the left of the cover for the turret battery access hatch
11. Replace the commander?s periscope ring with the angled type as found on Challenger
12. Some vehicles have a large rectangular bin for APDS projectiles in the left turret stowage basket, bolted to a retaining strip under the basket floor
13. Add the armoured box for the aerial tuning unit antenna ahead of the commander?s stowage bin, with a portable fire extinguisher below
Plus all the above, less 2 and 4

Mk.6 or Mk.7 or Mk.8

1. Replace the rectangular gun control equipment cover behind the commander?s cupola with a trapezoidal design, with handles on the edges
2. Replace the ranging MG to the left of the mantlet with a welded plate to cover the hole
Plus all for Mk.5 less 1 and 12

Plus the usual filling motorisation holes in the lower hull, replacing moulded-on grab handles etc..

Duncan Cook
Das werde ich irgendwan mal umsetzen.
Vieleicht habe ich denn sogar schon Platz für 1:35er Fahrzeuge.
Wenn ich 3 Stück in meiner Vitrine habe, ist die schon fast voll.
Vielen Dank für die Liste Hauke, das klingt nach einr wirklichen Herrausforderung.

Duncan Cook
Eine Frage hab ich noch: Wie hast du ds Gewebe am Turm/Kannonenübergang gemacht?

Hauke Krapf


Hallo Duncan,

diesen Schutzmantel habe ich aus MILIPUT modelliert und nach dem Aushärten hatte ich Falten mit einem dünnen Fräsaufsatz, eingespannt in die Bohrmaschine, eingearbeitet.

Du kannst aber auch die TAMIYA Spachtelmasse, am besten die weiße, dafür nehmen.

Duncan Cook
Danke für die schnelle Antwort Hauke, mal gucken ob ich das bei meinem sogar noch Nachrüste.

Dieter Bihlmaier
Hallo Hauke, dein Chieftain gefällt mir sehr gut. Mit der Berlin Tarnung möchte ich irgendwann auch mal einen bauen.
Ich habe vor Jahren einen Stillbrew/Togs Chieftain gebaut.