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Arado Ar 234B "Blitz"

Model Design Construction - No. RBK32002 - 1:32

Boxart Arado Ar 234B "Blitz" RBK32002 Model Design Construction


Brand:Model Design Construction
Title:Arado Ar 234B "Blitz"
Released:2007 | Initial release - new tool
Type:Full kit

Box contents

Includes: Photoetched fret, Resin (cast), Decalsheet (waterslide), Rod, Metal, Vinyl


Ar 234B-2

DR Military Wehrmacht Luftwaffe (German Air Force 1935-1945)

Ar 234B-2r (Aufklärer)

DR Military Wehrmacht Luftwaffe (German Air Force 1935-1945)

Product timeline

Model Design Construction
1:32 Arado Ar 234B "Blitz" (Model Design Construction RBK32002)
New tool

Instruction sheets

Download | 2849Kb (.pdf)


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1:32 Arado Ar 234B "Blitz" (Model Design Construction RBK32002)1:32 Arado Ar 234 (Montex SM32156)


Aghis Barberopoulos
Has anyone got good canopies for this otherwise excellent kit by RB productions ?
24. July 2011 at 07:57:16 Share
View full thread (16 Comments)
Jim Hatch I bought this about 2 years ago. There aren't any issues with the parts at all, but I haven't tried to fit anything. The moulding is absolutely fine.
6. January 2012 at 20:33:05
Aghis Barberopoulos Hello Christian. Can you give me more details for the material you used for the clear part ? Is it two part transparent resin ? Is it clear enough ? How do you apply it ? It would be great to have a way to tackle problems like these!
6. January 2012 at 20:41:16
Aghis Barberopoulos @JIM HATCH: The parts castings are beautiful. Some issues I expect with the fitting the wings to the fuselage, and the fuselage halves together - the joining is not so perfect... but the real issue for the 234 is of course its nose! Anything less than perfect would ruin the model :(
6. January 2012 at 20:44:00
Jim Hatch @Ahgis: That's true. It's going to need some serious work to get the best from it, but that's the nature of the beast with resin kits. If I line the fuse halves, then very little coaxing will be needed to make them align properly. The separate tail will need fitting to the main fuse halves first so the outer profile is correct. Any filling can be done around the centre-line.
6. January 2012 at 20:59:32
Christian Lehmann Hi Aghis,
I used the clear part of a blister packing which is vacu formed. When you heat it up it Evergreen too which is costly. You have to look a little bit to find a clear packing without scratches (but you can also polish it afterwards). I heated it in the hot air of a toaster( it is helpfulto wear gloves). More details you can see when you follow the attached link to 1. PMCN´s homepage). The rest you have to try ( I neded tree attempts for the canopy of the Heinkel ( I also did it for the canopy of a 109 some years ago. After cutting the drawn canopy I put it into future to protect it and give it a glossy shine. For tzhe masking of the frames you can use tamiya tape and the old canopies. Tomorrow I´lll send you a photo of the stamp I made for the Heinkels canopy. I have to take it first.
6. January 2012 at 21:10:03
Christian Lehmann PS: the rivets can be imitated by using a small driller
6. January 2012 at 21:25:21
Aghis Barberopoulos Thank you Christian for sharing your experiences, I will have to try it for myself, since I guess it will take much trial and error. The usual approach is using vacuum forming - a process which I have never tried. The key to all is of course the perfect master mould. Oh dear, one reason I like ships is this: usually no significant transparent parts... :)
7. January 2012 at 08:32:03
Christian Lehmann the process is deep-drawing which makes it easier because you do not need a vacuum.
7. January 2012 at 17:44:08
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