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Submarine Ohio-class

All you need to know about Submarine Ohio-class from a scale modeler perspective.

Info

Category:Ships - Submarines
Ships - Submarines
Also known as:
Used from:1981–Now
Used by:Military
Manufacturer:US General Dynamics Electric Boat
Model:Submarine Ohio-class

Hot kits

1:350 U.S.S. Ohio (Shanghai Dragon 1002)
U.S.S. Ohio
Shanghai Dragon 1:350
1002 1996 | Changed box
 

Products

 
1:200 USS Alabama (WAK - Wrocław WAK 2017/10)
USS Alabama (SSBN-731) type Ohio/Trident
WAK - Wrocław 1:200
WAK 2017/10 2017 | New tool
1:350 USS Wyoming SSBN-742 (Model Monkey np-SSBN742)
Metal or paintable plastic nameplate for:
USS Wyoming SSBN-742
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np-SSBN742 2020 | New tool
1:700 USS Wyoming SSBN-742 (Model Monkey np-SSBN742-1)
Metal or paintable plastic nameplate for:
USS Wyoming SSBN-742
Model Monkey 1:700
np-SSBN742-1 2020 | New tool
1:350 USS Maine SSBN-741 (Model Monkey np-SSBN741)
Metal or paintable plastic nameplate for:
USS Maine SSBN-741
Model Monkey 1:350
np-SSBN741 2020 | New tool
1:700 USS Maine SSBN-741 (Model Monkey np-SSBN741-1)
Metal or paintable plastic nameplate for:
USS Maine SSBN-741
Model Monkey 1:700
np-SSBN741-1 2020 | New tool
1:350 USS Maryland SSBN-738 (Model Monkey np-SSBN738)
Metal or paintable plastic nameplate for:
USS Maryland SSBN-738
Model Monkey 1:350
np-SSBN738 2020 | New tool
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News Feed

 
Treehugger added a new photoalbum.
9 | 13. January, 13:31
Reaper_lead
Overall, how is the kit so far? I'm thinking about either an ohio class or virginia class in 1:350, but I've never built a submarine.
13. May, 16:17
Treehugger
I think with some work it will look nice, but the numerous panel lines all along the hull afaik shouldn't be there so I filled them in with vallejo putty and then sanded flush. It will imo be a little difficult gluing on the big top deck, which is supposed to have two long open slits on the sides, because there aren't many struts and as you can imagine the forward part will require putty and sanding and maybe more to look flush. I glued on styrene parts to keep the top deck piece steady. I expected Dragon kits to be great, but it seems rather mediocre imo.

I damaged the bollards when sanding so the large bollards have to be re-created. I will fill in the cavities around the bollards, sand flush and paint over with white or silver, as the bollards are retracted mostly into the hull, top surface looking somewhat flush all over.
13. May, 17:07
Reaper_lead
Good to know! I will definitely be watching
14. May, 02:27
Treehugger added a new project.
2 | 13. January, 12:10
Treehugger
Ooh, I have some unfinished business to attend to but I am distracted by gaming atm. I have several submarines that shouldn't take too much time to finish. I don't regret buying this kit, but I thought the quality would be better.

I have so far added some styrene detailing around the insides of the platform for the launch tube hatches. I thought I could fill in the dubious grooves on the hull, but I think I will leave it as is, as the fix isn't trivial. One would think that a submarine hull would be all flush, but this one has lots of "rings" looking like large panel lines all over the sides, as if the hull was a number of cylinders linked together.

The replacement part in the box for converting this from SSBN to SSGN (guided missiles) isn't good, so I went with the SSGN setup which was what I wanted all along. I will remove the SSGN from the plastic nameplate.

I had to scratchbuild a stand of sorts for the upper part so that the large part would lie nicely on top of the submarine hull, this top piece is a large separate part (all along the lauch tube hatches on top), and if you aren't careful, you risk gluing the top part to the hull in such a way that you no longer have this drainage slit on the sides.
13. January, 12:19
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