Panzerkampfwagen VI Tiger I
All you need to know about Panzerkampfwagen VI Tiger I from a scale modeler perspective. search-solr.php?lang=en 50 50 /search.php?q=*&showsection=no&page=topics&fkSECTION[]=Topicstopic.php? 50 100|50| View all related products » (1477) search-solr.php?lang=en 50 50 /search.php?q=*&showsection=no&page=topics&fkSECTION[]=Topicstopic.php? 50 100|50| search-solr.php?lang=en 50 50 /search.php?q=*&showsection=no&page=topics&fkSECTION[]=Topicstopic.php? 50 100|50| View all books » (108) search-solr.php?lang=en 50 50 /search.php?q=*&showsection=no&page=topics&fkSECTION[]=Topicstopic.php? 50 100|50|Info
Category: Vehicles - Tanks
Vehicles - TanksAlso known as: Sd.Kfz. 181 Used from: 1942–1945 Used by: Manufacturer: Henschel
Model: Panzerkampfwagen VI Tiger I Hot kits
Border Model 1:35
BT-010 (BT010)
Tamiya 1:35
35216 (216)
Rye Field Model (RFM) 1:35
RM-5050 (5050)
Rye Field Model (RFM) 1:35
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Rye Field Model (RFM) 1:35
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January 17, 2021
Prachtige luikjes op je huisje en het oude vrouwtje ken ik van op facebook in 1 of anderd groep. Mooi diorama,!
Nice idea and very good implementation with great attention for details! Die Propagandakompanie dreht hier sicher sehr eindrucksvolle Bilder. In the German "Wochenschau" the war seemed to be won/winnable until the end of 1944.January 15, 2021
Didn't like the first picture, but so glad I clicked through. I like the rust effect on grey, brings great contrast and looks interesting. What's up with the blue hands?
Thanks..I saw a Tiger commander in a movie with blue gloves on,so i painted his hands blue...might not be historically accurate,but it adds a bit of visual interest.January 12, 2021
Straight out of the box build, there's some really good quality photoetch stuff in the box but of the plastics parts have really bad mould lines and some of the fits are really bad, buts it's coming togetherJanuary 10, 2021
Thanks Günther, I didn't know about burnishing, I will try and get some on order My plan is to deform the fenders according to the available reference photos of Tiger 712.
Thanks Bart. I got about 20% of it on in the end. I attempted more, but things like hatch and access panel handles never stood a chance with me at 1/72 scale. The rear track guards and the driving light assembly were just way above my skill level, so I let them go. I got the front and side guards/fenders on, but again, I am just not skilled enough at the moment to apply some of the dents, bends and damage that I had hoped to copy from reference photos of 712. I am happy with where it is though, it was definitely a learning curve.
True. To bad you live in Thailand. Bit far to come over and show some things. But with the rest of the PE you can use as training material then January 6, 2021
January 5, 2021
Beautiful weathering. My only criticism is that you should make the cleats of the tracks metallic as it would be worn and not rusty January 4, 2021
Oh, I forgot: make sure to really shake Stynylrez before using it. That's important. Also don't let it freeze. I've not had experience myself but have heard others have, and that the primer becomes unusable.
Thanks Tom, great info. I also use an Iwata with a 0.5 needle, so I should not have any problems. I've been searching for a water based sandable primer for some time now. And you're right about learning to maintain the airbrush, and keep it clean. It's definitely part of the learning curve.
So Pix #23 shows a test I did with using hairspray and AK Interactive's Worn Effects fluid to get a chipped/weathered effect.
Here's what I did in the test :
1. I decanted the hairspray so that I could more easily control the amount that gets applied via an airbrush.
2. The test piece was primed with black stynylrez and then coated with Alclad Klear Kote Matt.
3. The sections named "HS" are the Tresemme hairspray and the "AK"s are the AK fluid.
4. The numbers, 1, 2, and 3, are the number of light coats I applied to each section
5. For each panel I then wetted and scrubbed with a brush for the same amount of time and pressure.
You can see from the picture that the thicker the effect layer was the more easily the panel chipped.
The hairspray was much more effective than the AK fluid.
Here are some things I found that are not show in the images:
1. The AK Worn Effects Liquid did not lay down at all well on the matt clear coat. I guess it needs to be used on very flat paint as its surface tension just makes it bean like water. Maybe it's possible to add something to reduce the surface tension and get good coverage... The Tresemme laid down beautifully!
2. Don't lay down the final color coat too thickly. If the paint is too wet then it activates the hairspray layer and you get ugly cracking forming.... though if that's an effect you want then do lay it down thickly. However, to avoid cracking, build up the final coat in really thin layers till you get the coverage you need.
What I've learnt most about that this technique is that it is not as easy as many videos make it out to be. I'm also guessing that how long you let the hairspray and top layers dry probably effects how well the chipping works.
Have to say I'm somewhat apprehensive about applying the technique to the tank at this point....
Unfortunately the whitewash weathering did not turnout well. Ugh!
I might try to see if I can remove the paint and do it over again...
Wow! I used some windex to try to remove the paint and it works a charm. It doesn't interact with the underlying Alclad Klear Kote! So Happy.
And it's done! The weathering turned out okay seeing as it was my first real attempt at doing that. Assembled the internals and everything works. Will post a video of it in action tomorrow. It's very noisy and the controls are pretty crude. January 2, 2021