T-40 Nexter 40 CTAS

This is the first problem. Easily overcome 

Other side of the hull 

Still needed a lot of help. First tip. The back of a lot of the parts have a mold stub or raised area of some kind. Sand all the backs of your parts and DRY FIT. Whew? 

Another issue is the sprue gates extend over the edge of the parts onto the part it self. 90% of the parts I’ve used so far are this way 

Here is the issue but, hey, that’s what we do as modelers, right?? 

Want it going over a rise of a kind (it’s in my head. Let’s see how far that gets before the end of March) so the arms needed to be separated and pinned for proper alignment. 

Here are the road arms in place 

Wheels tried dry fit. 

3/4 view 

So far, it’s a cool looking vehicle. 

Another nights progress. Tiger sure knows how to bog down a build. The front plate needs to have the outer edges cut off as well as the mold pins (?) cut off and sanded. Then the before mentioned sprue gates need to be cut off and sanded. Fun, fun? 

Another view. 

Upper front view 

I’m thinking either a Moroccan sand, dark brown, and black scheme. I also could do a U.N. white paint. The vehicle was a 2013 demonstrator that was painted in a light-ish green overall.Boring? Hmmmm? 

Further work is done. The vision blocks are painted and set aside to dry. Next, liquid mask, dry, assemble. 

All the photo-etch goes on just before the delicate parts. 

The lower hull, suspension, and wheels will get painted this weekend as well as the inside of the armored side skirts. 

Still lots left to do. Thinking about replacing the bolts on the front plate. They are a little soft and after sanding the area, might be even softer. Got Meng’s small bolts to help. 

All in all, fun,frustrating, and challenging. Everything Mom said I was (am, can, and will be?). More tomorrow (sorry in advance?). 

So, after painting the hull bottom, I had to weather. 

Weathering looks good but this was just the foundation. 

So that it doesn’t need to be turned over…… 

Right side after all the work to seal the bottom. 

Forward right  

Upper camo. It was okay but….. 

This killed the vibe. Those 2 fat green stripes were sooooo distracting. 

Just too wide. They were the first ones done therefor they needed fixing ? 

Fixed them. Repainted with beige sand (Vallejo) and then Ammo by MiG forest green. Same colors used first. Beige sand matched, forest green came out slightly brighter. Did a freehand mottle on all the green. Weathering will be enhanced by it. 

Much better after putting those bands on a diet. 

Right side 

Drone view. 

Getting there. 

The tires were dusted with the Vallejo. Damn airbrushes (Iwata Neo and Neoeco) were troublesome. Can’t figure out why both of them are shooting even without pressing the trigger….. 

March Madness Group Build is over. Got it done and am happy. Didn’t get the base done and, I know I will still mess with this but, she made it across the finish line 

I couldn’t leave well enough alone and had to add netting and stowage? 

All in all, I’m satisfied ( if I keep saying it, it has to be true, right?) with how it came out. 

Learned a lot with this one.
1. All my airbrushes are made by Mr Murphy
2. If I break it once, I will continue to break it again and again
3. You can wait 3 days for curing and, the turret will bond to the hull because of paint
4. Tamiya tape gets even more nonstick when PVA/water mix is applied
There is soooo much more but, that’s enough for my brain for now 

This has made me order more netting for some other vehicles in my stash. 

Little bit closer now….??? 

Right (starboard 

Here is the start of the base. Gotta source a Senegalese tree (root) for it 

More base. Here you can see the need for the tree off the rear right side. 

See the bald area?. You will be fixed. 

Mission Model primer black with Ammo by MiG one shot brown oxide primer on the ground work. 

I was trying for a smooth sanding on the sides but, after wood puttying (of which I ran out) then sanding there were small little spots to work. “Hey,” I thought “ I have Vallejo putty! No problems!” No such luck. The difference in hardness between the original putty, foam board and Vallejo caused the foam to start ripping out in random areas. Lemons, meet juicer? Decided to make the sides look like stratified rock. It was worth the try. 

AMX-10 in place. Got a ways to go. 

Closer 

Looks mean in this stance.  

Port side 3/4 view 

Starboard rear 3/4. 

Closer  

Took a little time away from the bench. Business is picking up so time will be getting sparse. Front starboard 3/4 view. 

Did a little work on the base and I’m gonna call it a save. Much better than the original. 

Sides look like wood from a distance. Wasn’t going for that but, hey, take a win when ya can 

With the AMX-10 40 Nexter blah, blah, blah on board to eyeball. Added liquid pigments to the wheels and now have to bring the weathering up the beast. 

I see issues and am, once again, finding work arounds. 

Top side view 

Other side 

Front 3/4 view 

Better view of the wheels in dust pigments. Gotta say, can’t wait to get back to my Down & Dirty build.