Mi-24D (Hind D) Czech Air Force, WIP
For now at least a picture of the box. 🙂 Photos of the build will follow soon.
In addition to detailed drawings, this publication contains a lot of other useful information and photographs.
In addition to detailed drawings, this publication contains a lot of other useful information and photographs.
Drawings are in scale 1:72. However, it is not a big problem to scan, enlarge and print them in 1:48 scale.
Apart from the Zvezda kit, no other kit, including the Monogram kit, addresses the asymmetric fuselage deflection (front left view). I wonder how to fix this error. In the end, serendipity helped. When I was searching on a Czech modelling forum to see if anyone has built this model, I came across a thread with instructions on how to solve the fuselage deflection. Using a fine saw, I made a cut in the left half of the fuselage according to these instructions.
I opened the cut fuselage slightly and glued a 3 mm wide strip of plastic plate into the horizontal part of the cutout (from the end of the cockpit behind the last window of the cargo cabin), tightened the fuselage with rubber bands and let the glue dry. After the glue dried, I filled the remaining gaps created by stretching the fuselage with pieces of plastic plate and threads pulled from trees.
On the inside of the fuselage I strengthened all joints by gluing strips of thin plastic foil and let the modified half of the fuselage dry.
Finally, I applied putty to the joints.
Of course, I was curious to see how the whole finish turned out and eagerly awaited the sealant to dry so I could see for myself. After the sealant dried, I taped the two halves of the hull together with duct tape and was finally able to examine the result of my efforts and ...
... hooray IT WORKS!
... hooray IT WORKS!
According to the drawing, the tail spar is 6 mm shorter and the "rudder" should be slightly more inclined. To achieve the correct "rudder" angle, I trimmed the tail spar. I made the cut from above in the line of the fracture. I will adjust the "rudder" slope later.
To extend the tail spar, I cut off the end section. From the bottom of the tail spar I cut out the DISS antennas which I will replace with a resin casting with a more accurate shape. And since I was cutting so nicely, I cut off the longitudinal stringer and most of the bottom of the main landing gear shaft. My daily cutting limit is met, so I can quit for the day with a clear conscience.
So that someone doesn't say that I'm always cutting something off the model, I also glued something on. The exhaust holes are too big, so I closed them with a piece of plastic plate. When the glue dries, I'll cut new holes with the correct size.
I cut up the original part with the pilot and gunner cockpits according to the photo etching instructions and started building new and better cockpits. The part behind the pilot seat with the corridor to the cargo cabin is temporary, it will be reconstructed.
I cut up the original part with the pilot and gunner cockpits according to the photo etching instructions and started building new and better cockpits. The part behind the pilot seat with the corridor to the cargo cabin is temporary, it will be reconstructed.
The base of the freight cabin is made from original kit parts, gradually it will undergo shape modifications for fitting into the modified hull and then adding details and fine-tuning the final insight.
The base of the freight cabin is made from original kit parts, gradually it will undergo shape modifications for fitting into the modified hull and then adding details and fine-tuning the final insight.
In order to make the transport cabin fit the fuselage, I had to compensate for the stretching of the left side of the fuselage caused by the fuselage roll adjustment. Therefore, at the rear wall of the transport cabin, I tilted the top slightly to make the ceiling of the transport cabin higher on the left side of the fuselage.
I tilted the top of the front wall of the transport cabin in the same way.
In the photos you can see that the ceiling in the transport cab of the real machine was tilted like this 🙂.
In the photos you can see that the ceiling in the transport cab of the real machine was tilted like this 🙂.
I've made the front cockpit a separate part (for now).
The right side of the rear cockpit is starting to remotely resemble its model.
I still have a lot of work to do on the left side.
Looking at the two parts together, one can imagine (with a great deal of imagination) a future rear cockpit with a corridor.
I cut a new floor out of thin plastic board and glued a photo etch on it. I cut a hole in the floor for the lever according to the photoetch. The bottom of the hole was a thin plastic plate that I glued under the floor.
I didn't like the plate from the photoetch that covered the cut out hole after cutting out the seat in the gunner's cockpit , so I replaced it with a thin plastic plate that covers the entire back of the cockpit.
I made a "hi-fi tower" out of plastic sheeting and wires on the modified part with the rear wall of the right side of the cabin and part of the corridor.
The inside right side of the transport cabin will be visible only through the windows in the opposite wall after the hull is closed. So the details won't be too visible, but a completely bare wall with no details would look unnatural. Therefore, for this wall I also used parts showing the internal construction from the supplementary set with photo-etched planchettes.
I made a hole in the front cockpit behind the seat in the rear bulkhead according to the photos.
I glued a thin plastic plate into the left half of the fuselage to mask the unevenness of the inner wall where the future transport cabin will be, and cut windows into it. This wall will be visible through the open door to the transport cabin. In the next stage I will add the details of the internal construction to the wall.
I didn't address the bottom part under the electronics blocks, it won't be visible in the assembled model.
The assembly for testing so far only dry. There is still a lot missing, but I was curious how it will look like.
The assembly for testing so far only dry. There is still a lot missing, but I was curious how it will look like.
I cut out the bottom and all the sprues extending into the interior of the shaft from the original part. For the frame that was left over after this modification, I aligned the inner walls of the frame. I made a new bottom out of thin plastic plate. By separating the bottom from the shaft, I had better access for further work. I traced the position of the inner bulkhead and all the reinforcements on the bottom. I gradually cut the bulkhead and inner reinforcements out of the plastic plate and glued them to the bottom of the shaft. I used a strip of thin sheet metal for the two thin reinforcement strips at the bottom of the rear of the shaft.
I glued two reinforcement strips cut from thin sheet metal to the side of the chassis shaft. After that, I dry assembled the shaft to make sure everything fit as it should. It wasn't until I was taking pictures that I realized that the two strips on the side of the shaft were supposed to be on the opposite wall. I hadn't realized I had the shaft upside down when gluing them. Fortunately, that's an easy fix. The bottom isn't glued in yet.
To satisfy my curiosity, I tried placing the modified shaft in the fuselage. I held everything by hand only when taking the photo, so there are some minor inaccuracies in the alignment. I couldn't hold it any better.
After painting, I added cables and hydraulic lines to the shaft. I used thin wire to make them.
After painting, I added cables and hydraulic lines to the shaft. I used thin wire to make them.
After painting, I added cables and hydraulic lines to the shaft. I used thin wire to make them.
After painting, I added cables and hydraulic lines to the shaft. I used thin wire to make them.
The only thing left to do is to cut off the landing gear cover (the cover would get in the way during further work on the model) and then I can glue the shaft to the fuselage. I'll add more cables and hydralic wiring in the front of the shaft after the landing gear leg is installed.
I cut the open undercarriage leg cover off the nose gear shaft. I then attached the shaft to the right half of the fuselage. To check, I also attached the left half of the fuselage (without gluing) ... everything is fine.
I cut the open undercarriage leg cover off the nose gear shaft. I then attached the shaft to the right half of the fuselage. To check, I also attached the left half of the fuselage (without gluing) ... everything is fine.
After gluing the landing gear shaft, I glued the base with cockpits to the right half of the fuselage. After the glue dried I sprayed everything with black paint.
I also sprayed the front part of the left half of the fuselage black.
I checked the cockpits in the assembled hull just to be sure. Everything fits as it should.
Time to fill the empty cockpits with seats, instruments and controls.
Time to fill the empty cockpits with seats, instruments and controls.
I made a counterpart for the left side of the corridor to the previously created piece with the equipment for the right side.
I still need to make and add a few more bits and pieces before I can fit these parts to the fuselage. I'll save that for tomorrow.
I started outfitting the interior. So far just one more "box" of photo etchings and a quick working photo.
I started outfitting the interior. So far just one more "box" of photo etchings and a quick working photo.
I modified the exhaust holes on both halves of the fuselage. I glued a plastic plate into the original holes. I traced the correct hole shape on the plate according to the drawing. Then I drilled through the plastic plate and sanded the hole to the correct shape.
After modifying the exhaust ports, I went back to work on the interior. To make everything fit together well, I first have to assemble and glue the transport cabin to the right half of the fuselage. I used parts from the kit as the basis for its construction. I have already solved the tilt of the ceiling, now it was time to add the small parts. (The photo is a test fit of the partially assembled transport cabin to the fuselage. The parts are temporarily attached with adhesive rubber).
I modified the ceiling of the transport cabin according to the photos.
On the right and rear wall of the transport cabin I added details of plastic plates and wires of different thicknesses.
Unfortunately, when the fuselage is assembled, this part will only be visible through the windows in the fuselage.
Unfortunately, when the fuselage is assembled, this part will only be visible through the windows in the fuselage.
Also the missing fire extinguisher had to be added to the front wall of the transport cab, and a few minor details.
The assembled transport cabin is glued to the right half of the fuselage. The folding seats are not yet completed. They are placed in the cabin for inspection only.
View of the assembled transport cabin. The cab ceiling and folding bench are not yet glued together. I will glue them permanently after the folding seats are completed and installed.
After gluing the photo-etchings, I unified the surface by spraying the base colour.
I used mainly a set of interior photo-etch and a few strips of plastic to make the interior structure of the left wall of the transport cabin. The door rod is an original part from the kit. To make sure that everything fits together properly after gluing the two halves of the fuselage together, I continuously checked the position of the parts on the left wall with the right half of the fuselage with the front and rear walls and the floor of the transport cab glued together.
After minor corrections, the left side of the cab will go into paint and then fine tuning of minor details will follow.
After minor corrections, the left side of the cab will go into paint and then fine tuning of minor details will follow.
The side of the transport cab after spraying with blue-grey paint for the interior.
I started adding small parts to the left side of the transport cab.
The left side of the transporter cabin is finished.
The transport cabin is ready. To check that everything fits as it should, I assembled it without gluing. I'll glue the folding bench and the cabin ceiling after the windows in the right half of the fuselage have been glazed. Now the bench and ceiling would make the job of gluing the windows difficult.
Once the fuselage is assembled, the view into the transport cabin will be limited. The left side and the front wall with the cockpit passage will be quite visible (thanks to the open door on the right side of the fuselage).
Once the fuselage is assembled, the view into the transport cabin will be restricted. There will be only a limited view of the right side of the cabin through the windows on the left half of the fuselage.
Once the fuselage is assembled, the view into the transport cabin will be restricted. Little of the rear wall of the transport cabin will be visible through the passageway between the transport cabin and the cockpit.
I glazed the windows on the right side with transparent film. Before gluing the "glass" into the window opening, I glued masking tape on both sides of the film to prevent the glue from etching the surface. After the windows were glued into the hull (and the glue dried), I removed the masking tape from the inside of the window. I left the masking tape on the outside for future work.
After gluing the windows to the right half of the fuselage, I glued the structure with folding benches to the transport cabin.
And finally I glued the cabin ceiling as well.
And finally I glued the cabin ceiling as well.
Before gluing the fuselage halves together, I need to have a finished part with the reducer and rotor axis and engine exhausts. To take advantage of the time for the glue to dry on the glued parts of the transport cab, I started preparing the exhausts. I won't need the engines (they won't be visible), so I cut them off the exhausts. I found some photo etchings of the turbines in my stash. I glued them to a plastic plate and stuck them into the exhausts.
Since the plastic melts when sanded in a micro drill, I sanded the drive shafts out of bamboo skewers. I glued thin plastic plates to the sanded shafts.
Since the plastic melts when sanded in a micro drill, I sanded the drive shafts out of bamboo skewers. I glued thin plastic plates to the sanded shafts.
I painted the inside of the engine end pieces and glued them together. I will glue the exhaust tips to these parts later.
The part from the rotor mounting kit has nice details molded in, but unfortunately most of these details don't match reality.
The part from the rotor mounting kit has nice details molded in, but unfortunately most of these details don't match reality.
I pulled the new part of the top of the reducer out of the thin plastic plate. I used the original part from the Zvezda kit as a sample part.
I removed all the "unnecessary" parts from the original part and left only the rotor axis. I glued a thin plastic film on the "floor" and glued the newly made upper part of the reducer on the rotor axis. The new base is complete, but a few small parts will need to be added before gluing it to the fuselage.
I removed all the "unnecessary" parts from the original part and left only the rotor axis. I glued a thin plastic film on the "floor" and glued the newly made upper part of the reducer on the rotor axis. The new base is complete, but a few small parts will need to be added before gluing it to the fuselage.
20.5.2023 Mi-24V Czech Air Force, open day at Čáslav Airport.
I cut (with a compass) a round strip from a plastic plate and glued it to the top of the reducer. I prepared screws and nuts from thin wire and insulation and gradually glued them to the glued bar. I left the "screws" long to make them easier to handle when gluing.
I shortened the glued screws to the correct length.
From pieces of plastic, wires and insulation I started to assemble a set of levers to control the main rotor.
After adding the center bushing, the control levers assembly is coplet.
Assembled parts after painting.
(Photographed in the evening under a lamp, in daylight the parts are light blue-grey.)
(Photographed in the evening under a lamp, in daylight the parts are light blue-grey.)
Inspection assembly of new parts.
(Photographed in the evening under a lamp, in daylight the parts are light blue-grey.)
(Photographed in the evening under a lamp, in daylight the parts are light blue-grey.)
Inspection assembly of new parts.
(Photographed in the evening under a lamp, in daylight the parts are light blue-grey.)
(Photographed in the evening under a lamp, in daylight the parts are light blue-grey.)
On the right half of the fuselage I glued a modified part with the rear cockpit wall and the equipment of the side wall of the passage to the transport cabin. I also added an instrument panel under the cockpit entrance.
Also on the left half of the fuselage I glued a modified part with the rear cockpit wall and equipment of the side wall of the passage to the transport cabin.
I also started painting the dashboard. The photo shows the dash just laid (without gluing) on the foil with the instrument dials. So the assembly (until the dashboard is glued to the foil) is not quite accurate.
I finished modifying the reducer and added some control rods around it - at least the ones that will be visible after the fuselage halves are glued together. For comparison - this is what the kit part looked like before modification. Pretty nice details, but overall out of reality.
And this is what the part from the previous picture looks like after the modifications.
On the left side of the cockpit I glued the completed side panel assembly with the instrument panel.
The cockpit is a little closer to completion.
I completed the decals with stencils for the front wall of the transport cabin and the closed door on the left side of the fuselage. I then glued the modified engine end caps to both halves of the fuselage from the inside and glued the modified reducer to the right half of the fuselage. Now there was nothing stopping me from gluing the fuselage halves together.
While the glue dries, the clamps secure the correct position of the parts.
While the glue dries, the clamps secure the correct position of the parts.
I extended the tail spar by 6 mm by gluing in a plastic block made of three 2mm plates. I roughly sanded the inserted block to shape and filled the joints with gel CA glue.
According to the drawing I adjusted the rudder inclination. I cut the rear spar from the top to about three quarters of its height at the break. I deflected the rudder slightly and glued a wedge of plastic plate into the gap. I filled the joint with gel CA glue.
I finished the bulkhead to the transporter cabin.
A cross beam and several cables were added under the ceiling of the connecting corridor.
I used what the house gave me to make the small parts. Wire, plastic wire insulation, pieces of plastic sheeting, metal pen filler and thin sheet metal. The attached matchbook is proof of how small everything is.
After painting, the crumb was completely transparent. Yeah, and the match really isn't a fireplace match.
You can't see much of the extinguisher after it's glued into the hull.
With the instruments on the opposite side, visibility will be slightly better. I'll get to the corridor ceiling next time. So far, I've only got a board cut to size.
I removed the original schematic air intake on the top of the part and made holes instead. I filleted a rounded recess on the front of the holes. I drilled and sanded the air inlet to the oil unit. The details in the inlet were just schematic and flat, I will make new ones later.
I made the ceiling from 1 mm thick plastic board. I noticed that some machines had black ceiling padding stitched with beige thread. I liked this colour combination, so I tried it on my ceiling. The ceiling will be minimally visible on the assembled model, only when viewed from below through the open cockpit and shipping door. If the ceiling on machine #4011 (which I'm building) was all black, it won't be that big of a deal, you won't normally see it.
I solved the too deep gap between the engine covers by gluing and sanding a strip of thin plastic plate.
I cut the new air inlets on the top of the part out of thin sheet metal (from my favorite salmon paste tube) and after shaping, glued them with CA glue to the cut out holes. I then glued fine metal mesh into the entry holes.
I made a new air intake for the oil unit fan from pieces of plastic and wire and glued it into the modified air intake piece.
I made a new air intake for the oil unit fan from pieces of plastic and wire and glued it into the modified air intake piece.
I glued the modified part with the air inlets to the fuselage and attached it with wire while the glue was drying.
View of the newly manufactured rotor control parts (after installation in the fuselage).
View of the newly manufactured rotor control parts (after installation in the fuselage).
I made some minor adjustments to the optical sensor under the bow. In the front part I added a door made of photo-etch for exterior and made a rib between the doors in the front part from thin plastic film...
... and from the same foil I also made a small aileron for the back of the swivel antenna to guide the rockets.
The space for the main landing gear was contrived on the model and did not correspond to reality. After cutting out the badly shaped parts, there was an empty hole in the fuselage.
After cutting out the original, poorly shaped part, I glued a new bottom made of plastic board into the hole and added ribs made of logs pulled from a piece of the frame.
After gluing the bottom, I also cut and glued the front and rear walls of the chassis shaft from the same plate.
In the part that partially closes the shaft, I made (again from plastic plates) and glued a triangular part that partially divides the shaft into two parts.
In the part that partially closes the shaft, I made (again from plastic plates) and glued a triangular part that partially divides the shaft into two parts.
The main landing gear shaft is assembled without gluing so far.
One more view of the assembled shaft (without gluing). So far it is just a "bare bone", most of the work still needs to be done.
I replaced the original seats from the kit with new ones. I used parts from the interior photoetch kit to make the metal seat shells. I assembled the front seat shell without any modifications, for the rear seat shell I slightly lowered the backrest according to the photos. I added padded backrests to both seats. To make them I used plastic plates, which I shaped with a chisel and a scalpel with a rounded blade. I used the same plate for the seat cushions. Since the seats were smooth, I only rounded the edges.
On the left side of the front seat I added a raised section made of a piece of thin plastic board and on the right side a folding armrest made of wire and pieces of plastic. On the back seat, I added a "sort of box" to the bottom of the right side of the seat and glued a folding headrest to the back of the backrest. I glued the headrest folded down so you could see at least a little into the aisle. Once the seat is in the cockpit, the headrest won't be too visible. It's just that when the headrest is there, you won't even notice it. But if the headrest isn't there, you can see that there's something missing. 🙂
I added seat belts to both seats, again from the interior photoetch set. I still need to make the "legs" for both seats and then I can install them in the cabs.
From pieces of plastic I assembled a console with valve stop levers, engine control levers and a collective lever.
I used the original part from the kit for the collective lever. I shortened the lever, modified the head and added a thin wire "eye" on the underside of the handle.
I've omitted the wheel on the left side under the collective lever, it won't be visible in any way once the console is placed in the cab.
The valve stop levers and engine controls are still to be added.
The valve stop levers and engine controls are still to be added.
The console with the control levers is ready. It is quite small (see previous pictures with match), so it was hard to take pictures and the pictures are not good. But for the sake of an idea, it's probably enough.
I used copper wire for the levers to control the stop valves and motors, the ball at the end was made by melting the end of the wire over the gas burner of the kitchen stove.
I used copper wire for the levers to control the stop valves and motors, the ball at the end was made by melting the end of the wire over the gas burner of the kitchen stove.
The console with the control levers is ready. It is quite small (see previous pictures with match), so it was hard to take pictures and the pictures are not good. But for the sake of an idea, it's probably enough.
I used copper wire for the levers to control the stop valves and motors, the ball at the end was made by melting the end of the wire over the gas burner of the kitchen stove.
I used copper wire for the levers to control the stop valves and motors, the ball at the end was made by melting the end of the wire over the gas burner of the kitchen stove.
The console with the control levers is ready. It is quite small (see previous pictures with match), so it was hard to take pictures and the pictures are not good. But for the sake of an idea, it's probably enough.
I used copper wire for the levers to control the stop valves and motors, the ball at the end was made by melting the end of the wire over the gas burner of the kitchen stove.
... Yeah, and I left the two copper wires in there just to make it easier to photograph. I'll remove them before gluing the bracket to the cab, of course.
I used copper wire for the levers to control the stop valves and motors, the ball at the end was made by melting the end of the wire over the gas burner of the kitchen stove.
... Yeah, and I left the two copper wires in there just to make it easier to photograph. I'll remove them before gluing the bracket to the cab, of course.
This is how the levers of the cyclika and the collective looked before the modification.
I added a coin to the match (to compare the size of the parts) and photographed everything on a 10 x 10 mm raster mat.
I added a coin to the match (to compare the size of the parts) and photographed everything on a 10 x 10 mm raster mat.
And this is what the levers look like after modification. The horizontal lever is the newly made rotor brake lever (not shortened yet). This lever is not in the kit.
View of the completed cockpit. A few instruments are still missing, but they are attached to the frame of the transparent cockpit cover. (I will work on the cockpit covers after the front cockpit is finished).
View of the completed cockpit.
View of the completed cockpit.
I started to replenish the equipment in the front cabin. So far I managed to paint and glue the left dashboard with the coletiv control lever.
I glued a turquoise green lead wire tube under the top edge of the cab. I added a first aid kit to the back of the gunner's cab, to the right of the seat. I made this out of a piece of plastic board. A little above the first aid kit, I added an electrical "box". I used a PE part and a piece of plastic plate to make it.
On the right side, another tool block is added. The base of the block is again a PE part. On it I added cable routing made of thin wires. The connectors are made from a piece of plastic insulation taken off the thin wire and cut into reasonably sized (tiny to be precise) rollers. Now I could glue the seat as well. If I had glued the seat earlier, it would have gotten in the way of gluing the first aid kit and electronics blocks.
The anti-tank missile sight in the kit has nice details, but is too big and completely fictional.
The photo etchings only offer a plate to stick the plastic sight from the kit on.
So all over again and better.
The photo etchings only offer a plate to stick the plastic sight from the kit on.
So all over again and better.
I added a sight and handlebars to the gunner's cockpit to control the anti-tank missiles. The kit does not include handlebars and the optical sight from the kit is completely fictional. The PE parts kit for the interior doesn't address these parts either. I had no choice but to make them all new. They are now finished and in place.
I added a sight and handlebars to the gunner's cockpit to control the anti-tank missiles. The kit does not include handlebars and the optical sight from the kit is completely fictional. The PE parts kit for the interior doesn't address these parts either. I had no choice but to make them all new. They are now finished and in place.
I used a PE part from a planchette with interior parts as a base for the sight in the front of the gunner's cabin. I glued pieces of plastic of different shapes and sizes on the PE part during the afternoon... and this is the result.
By the way, by now the sight consists of 19 parts... but it's not finished yet. So tomorrow (at least I hope) I will continue the "puzzle".
By the way, by now the sight consists of 19 parts... but it's not finished yet. So tomorrow (at least I hope) I will continue the "puzzle".
I used a PE part from a planchette with interior parts as a base for the sight in the front of the gunner's cabin. I glued pieces of plastic of different shapes and sizes on the PE part during the afternoon... and this is the result.
By the way, by now the sight consists of 19 parts... but it's not finished yet. So tomorrow (at least I hope) I will continue the "puzzle".
By the way, by now the sight consists of 19 parts... but it's not finished yet. So tomorrow (at least I hope) I will continue the "puzzle".
I added the missing shade and cables with connectors. I used a modified part from a photo etch kit for the base plate to which the sight is attached. The control panels on the sides are also photo-etched, taped with a plastic plate ground into the wedge. After assembly, I painted the sight.
I taped the completed sight to the bow of the gunner's cabin.
While taking the photo, I realized that I forgot to glue the triangular instrument bracket (artificial horizon?) on the left side of the cabin. So I will add it tomorrow.
All that remains is to modify the rear of the cabin. Then it's time for the transparent part with overlays for both cabins.
For now, only the attached transparent part shows that the addition of cables on the back of the sight (from the shooter's point of view) was not unnecessary.
In the front cabin I finished the rear wall above the seat. I will adjust the final shape of the part above the seat after the cab cover is fitted.
In the front cabin I finished the rear wall above the seat. I will adjust the final shape of the part above the seat after the cab cover is fitted.
Rear cockpit shaping test. The cockpit cover is fitted for this test and without gluing.
The cab cover has internal frames painted black. A fan, compass and electrical cables have been added to the windshield frame in the gunner's cabin.
For the fan I used a part from the kit, but thinned the blades. I made the compass out of a piece of plastic and the electrical cables out of thin wire.
For the fan I used a part from the kit, but thinned the blades. I made the compass out of a piece of plastic and the electrical cables out of thin wire.
A sight, fan, compass and electrical cables were added to the windshield frame in the cockpit.
For the sight and fan I used parts from the kit, but thinned the fan blades, modified the shape of the sight and added slides. I made the compass from a piece of plastic and the electrical cables from thin wire.
For the sight and fan I used parts from the kit, but thinned the fan blades, modified the shape of the sight and added slides. I made the compass from a piece of plastic and the electrical cables from thin wire.
Test with the front cab cover on (without gluing) ... everything is fine.
Test with the rear cab cover on (without gluing) ... everything is fine.
I made a blank for a new part out of thin plastic tubing and wires.
I "varnished" the finished blank with thin CA glue to fix the position of the individual wires.
After the glue dried, I cut all the wires on one side.
After the glue dried, I cut all the wires on one side.
I shortened and sanded the remaining wires on the other side.
Then I painted what was left black... and the air duct to prevent fogging of the cockpit windows is done 🙂
I glued the finished tube of the cockpit glass blowing system around the perimeter of the gunner's cockpit.
I glued the finished tube of the cockpit glass blowing system around the perimeter of the gunner's cockpit.
I glued the finished tube of the cockpit glass blowing system around the perimeter of the gunner's cockpit.
The sight made from a modified kit part was too big. So I made a completely new sight that is the right size.
The sight made from a modified kit part was too big. So I made a completely new sight that is the right size.
There is not much room on the model for the glass defogger tubes in the cockpit for the captain. That's why I made this flat version.
There is not much room on the model for the glass defogger tubes in the cockpit for the captain. That's why I made this flat version.
The tube of the windshield defogging system is the same as in the gunner-operator cabin, I used a flat version for the right side (due to lack of space).
I also used the flat version for the left side (due to lack of space).
I also used the flat version for the left side (due to lack of space).
I also used the flat version for the right side (due to lack of space).
I made a twisted cord out of very thin wire and after painting it, I added it to the panel to the right of the captain's seat.
I glued a piece of mirror film to the front of the PE part of the rear view mirror. I glued a piece of thin wire to the back of this part. I painted the finished rear view mirror with black paint. After the paint dried, I glued the mirror to the cockpit. The finished rear view mirror was the last missing piece of cockpit equipment.
The equipment of both cabins is finished, now I can glue the part with overlays. The hull modification made it necessary to resort to the necessary bit of violence again. For now only the captain's cabin overlay is glued to the hull, I will glue the operator's cabin overlay when the glue under the captain's overlay dries. The overlay part had a tendency to move forward, so I used "wire clamps" to help me.
The equipment of both cabins is finished, now I can glue the part with overlays. The hull modification made it necessary to resort to the necessary bit of violence again. For now only the captain's cabin overlay is glued to the hull, I will glue the operator's cabin overlay when the glue under the captain's overlay dries. The overlay part had a tendency to move forward, so I used "wire clamps" to help me.
The wings in the kit have too much span. It's not that they can't be modified, but it would be a lot of work.
Fortunately, there is a simpler solution. CMK once released a corrective resin set that, among other things, covers the wings with the correct span. And since I have that kit, the problem is largely solved. The difficult modification of the wings comes down to a bit of sanding to adjust the wing-to-fuselage transition.
Like the wings, the horizontal tail surfaces have a larger span. But here the adjustment will be simple. A cut in the right place and a little sanding will fix everything.
The transparent cockpit covers are stuck on.
The transparent cockpit covers are stuck on.
On the back side of the hump with the motors and the main rotor reducer I glued a resin part - ISPANKA device. This device was used to deform the helicopter's thermal field as a protection against missiles guided to the thermal trail from the engines.
I glued PE grids to the left side of the tail spar.
I glued PE grids to the left side of the tail spar.
On the left side of the tail spar I glued a part with signal flares of PE.
I glued the PE cover of the tail spar revision hole to the underside of the fuselage.
I glued a PE cap to the underside of the fuselage.
I glued a PE reflector cap to the underside of the bow.
The fuselage of the helicopter is sprayed with surfacer.
The fuselage of the helicopter is sprayed with surfacer. The doors to all cabins are temporarily fixed as protection against surfacer spraying into the interior.
I started carving new lines between the panels. I'm working from the back to the front.
I started carving new lines between the panels. I'm working from the back to the front.
On the right side of the bow is added a protrusion with an optical sight for anti-tank missiles.
A transmitting antenna for anti-tank missiles is added to the left side of the helicopter's nose.
I used putty to fill the gap in the machine gun shaft.
I added a partition and a modified front wall to the main landing gear compartment.
I added a PE cap on the outside of the main landing gear landing gear shaft cover.
I made a "pyramid" on the inside of the main landing gear shaft cover from thin plastic plates.
The horizontal tail surfaces of the kit have a large span 6 mm larger.
After shortening and reshaping, the horizontal tail surfaces are the correct shape and size.
The kit wings also have too large a span. In their case it is almost 25 mm. In 1:1 scale, this difference would mean a deviation of 1.2 m! And that's already noticeable. Even the spacing between the armament hinges does not correspond to reality.
I will replace the helicopter wing parts from the kit with new wings from the resin conversion kit. These wings are the correct size and spacing for the armament hangers.
After engraving the new lines, I sanded the whole hull with fine sandpaper. Then I cleaned the lines from sanding dust. I started gluing small details on the fuselage.
After engraving the new lines, I sanded the whole hull with fine sandpaper. Then I cleaned the lines from sanding dust. I started gluing small details on the fuselage.
I glued small surface details on the prepared hull. Some of the glued parts are made of thin plastic film, some parts are PE.
I glued small surface details on the prepared hull. Some of the glued parts are made of thin plastic film, some parts are PE.
I glued small surface details on the prepared hull. Some of the glued parts are made of thin plastic film, some parts are PE.
I made lights for the group flight out of thin wire and plastic sheeting.
I glued small surface details on the prepared hull. Some of the glued parts are made of thin plastic film, some parts are PE.
I made the lights for the group flight out of thin wire and plastic sheeting. There were three of these lights on the fuselage.
I made a "bulge" on the right side of the fuselage (in front of the exhaust) out of a plastic plate, a piece of plastic tubing and some fine metal mesh.
And as the last job of the day, I had the appearance of the air intake louvers for the starter unit repaired. Their appearance was not good.
The landing gear parts in the kit are large (4 mm longer) and their construction is simplified.
First I cut up the main parts of the chassis, adjusting their shape and size. I glued the modified parts together and filled in the missing parts.
I shortened the shock body and modified its shape. I rolled the "ribs" from a thin strip of staniol painted on one side with thin CA glue.
I made the chrome parts of the landing gear damper piston from a injection needle.
I glued the triangular structure connecting the struts and the shock absorber of the chassis leg from thin logs pulled out of the trees.
Before I started to make the details in the main landing gear space, I had to solve one thing. Before I start adding details, I need to glue this part to the fuselage. However, if I glue this part to the fuselage, I lose access to the rear of the landing gear compartment.
Fortunately, the solution was simple. All we had to do was cut off the undercarriage covers. Since these covers close when the landing gear is extended, they are molded together with the non-movable part of the fuselage in the kit.
The modified part can now be glued into place. Once the chassis covers have been cut off, sufficient access to the main part of the chassis is ensured. There is now nothing stopping me from starting to add the missing details to the main landing gear space.
After solving the problem with access to the main landing gear space, I started "stringing beads". From thin wires, pieces of plastic and thin tubes I started to assemble the hydraulic fluid lines.
I prepared individual hydraulic line assemblies for both halves of the landing gear space.
First, I glued the prepared hydraulic line assemblies to one half of the chassis compartment ...
... then I glued the prepared hydraulic line assemblies to the other half of the chassis space.
To continue, I've glued a modified middle part.
The protruding black wires will later be connected to parts not yet installed.
Even if the rear underbody covers are closed, the wiring will still be partially visible.
I made (brown) hydraulic hoses out of thin lead wire and connected them to the piston that pulled the landing gear legs into the fuselage.
I added a breakaway strut and piston to retract the chassis into one half of the shaft. I still need to attach the hydraulic hoses to the piston. And then I have to do it all over again in the other half of the chassis bay.
I made (brown) hydraulic hoses out of thin lead wire and connected them to the piston that pulled the landing gear legs into the fuselage.
I sealed the finished rear undercarriage compartment with undercarriage covers. These covers were closed by default and opened only briefly when retracting or extending the landing gear.
I overwrote the lines on the modified horizontal tail surfaces and then glued them to the fuselage.
Even after the covers are glued on, there is still enough space to see the details.
I also glued the auxiliary wings to the fuselage and temporarily all the covers in closed position (they serve as masking for the holes in the fuselage). Then I sprayed the whole fuselage with surfacer. Surfacer unified the surface and gave the model a nice look.
Surfacer unified the surface and gave the model a nice look.
Surfacer unified the surface and gave the model a nice look.
Surfacer unified the surface and gave the model a nice look.
Surfacer unified the surface and gave the model a nice look. But it also showed the places that still need to be fixed.
Surfacer unified the surface and gave the model a nice look. But it also showed the places that still need to be fixed.
Surfacer unified the surface and gave the model a nice look. But it also showed the places that still need to be fixed.
Surfacer unified the surface and gave the model a nice look. But it also showed the places that still need to be fixed.
Surfacer unified the surface and gave the model a nice look. But it also showed the places that still need to be fixed.
Surfacer unified the surface and gave the model a nice look. But it also showed the places that still need to be fixed.
Since I replaced the original wings with new resin wings (with the correct size and shape), the wing-to-fuselage transition also needs to be modified.
Since I replaced the original wings with new resin wings (with the correct size and shape), the wing-to-fuselage transition also needs to be modified.
The shape of the transition between the wing and the fuselage was first modified by micro-grinding. Then I sanded it with sandpaper and finally I applied putty to the sanded joint.
The shape of the transition between the wing and the fuselage was first modified by micro-grinding. Then I sanded it with sandpaper and finally I applied putty to the sanded joint.
The shape of the transition between the wing and the fuselage was first modified by micro-grinding. Then I sanded it with sandpaper and finally I applied putty to the sanded joint.
I glued a round plastic plate into the hole for the gun turret on the underside of the bow. Without this modification, the gun turret would be too sunken in the fuselage.
When I sanded the transitions between the wings and the fuselage, I sanded the trailing edges of the wings into an arc. It wasn't catastrophic, but it was visible. So now I have to fix it.
I sanded the arcs in the trailing edges flat and filled in the missing material with pieces of thicker "thread" pulled from the frame. Once the glue dries, I'll sand the wing to the correct shape. Now I'll be careful not to end up with another curve. Oh well... there's a price to pay for stupidity.
I sanded the arcs in the trailing edges flat and filled in the missing material with pieces of thicker "thread" pulled from the frame. Once the glue dries, I'll sand the wing to the correct shape. Now I'll be careful not to end up with another curve. Oh well... there's a price to pay for stupidity.
The trailing edges of the wings have been repaired.
The left side of the bow is riveted.
Riveting of the fuselage is complete.
Riveting of the fuselage is complete.
Riveting of the fuselage is complete.
Riveting of the fuselage is complete.
Riveting of the fuselage is complete.
Riveting of the fuselage is complete.
After finishing the riveting I sanded the whole fuselage with fine sandpaper. Then I cleaned the fuselage from sanding dust. On the cleaned fuselage I sprayed white base paint in five thin coats.
Riveting of the fuselage is complete.
After finishing the riveting I sanded the whole fuselage with fine sandpaper. Then I cleaned the fuselage from sanding dust. On the cleaned fuselage I sprayed white base paint in five thin coats.
After finishing the riveting I sanded the whole fuselage with fine sandpaper. Then I cleaned the fuselage from sanding dust. On the cleaned fuselage I sprayed white base paint in five thin coats.
After finishing the riveting I sanded the whole fuselage with fine sandpaper. Then I cleaned the fuselage from sanding dust. On the cleaned fuselage I sprayed white base paint in five thin coats.
After finishing the riveting I sanded the whole fuselage with fine sandpaper. Then I cleaned the fuselage from sanding dust. On the cleaned fuselage I sprayed white base paint in five thin coats.
After finishing the riveting I sanded the whole fuselage with fine sandpaper. Then I cleaned the fuselage from sanding dust. On the cleaned fuselage I sprayed white base paint in five thin coats.
After finishing the riveting I sanded the whole fuselage with fine sandpaper. Then I cleaned the fuselage from sanding dust. On the cleaned fuselage I sprayed white base paint in five thin coats.
After finishing the riveting I sanded the whole fuselage with fine sandpaper. Then I cleaned the fuselage from sanding dust. On the cleaned fuselage I sprayed white base paint in five thin coats.
I sprayed a heavily diluted black pre-darkening paint over the dried primer.
I sprayed a heavily diluted black pre-darkening paint over the dried primer.
I sprayed a heavily diluted black pre-darkening paint over the dried primer.
Tiger Hind got a light grey "coat". After the paint dries, the orange tail section of the helicopter will be next.
Tiger Hind got a light grey "coat". After the paint dries, the orange tail section of the helicopter will be next.
Tiger Hind got a light grey "coat". After the paint dries, the orange tail section of the helicopter will be next.
The gray color was darker than it should have been. That's why I lightened it by spraying two layers of white paint. Now the light shade of grey is fine.
The gray color was darker than it should have been. That's why I lightened it by spraying two layers of white paint. Now the light shade of grey is fine.
The gray color was darker than it should have been. That's why I lightened it by spraying two layers of white paint. Now the light shade of grey is fine.
The gray color was darker than it should have been. That's why I lightened it by spraying two layers of white paint. Now the light shade of grey is fine.
After this morning, the twenty-four has an orange tail. After masking, I sprayed the tail with white paint first to unify the base. And after it dried, it was finally the turn of the orange.
The tail surfaces are just attached to wire pins. They would get in the way a lot when applying the tiger stripe decals.
The tail surfaces are just attached to wire pins. They would get in the way a lot when applying the tiger stripe decals.
After this morning, the twenty-four has an orange tail. After masking, I sprayed the tail with white paint first to unify the base. And after it dried, it was finally the turn of the orange.
The tail surfaces are just attached to wire pins. They would get in the way a lot when applying the tiger stripe decals.
The tail surfaces are just attached to wire pins. They would get in the way a lot when applying the tiger stripe decals.
I applied decals to the white and grey part of the fuselage. I left the pilot door still taped with masking tape for decal continuity.
And out of curiosity, I tried the zipper and the beginning of the tiger stripes.
I'll save the rest of the stripes for tomorrow.
And out of curiosity, I tried the zipper and the beginning of the tiger stripes.
I'll save the rest of the stripes for tomorrow.
I applied decals to the white and grey part of the fuselage. I left the pilot door still taped with masking tape for decal continuity.
And out of curiosity, I tried the zipper and the beginning of the tiger stripes.
I'll save the rest of the stripes for tomorrow.
And out of curiosity, I tried the zipper and the beginning of the tiger stripes.
I'll save the rest of the stripes for tomorrow.
Although KoPro has prepared a decent manual for the decals, the application of the decals is a bit of a puzzle. The tiger stripes are divided into separate pieces, and there are separate ones for the left and right side. Figuring out which stripe connects to which requires detective work at times. But with a little effort it can be done. You just have to take into account that it's an afternoon's work.
Although KoPro has prepared a decent manual for the decals, the application of the decals is a bit of a puzzle. The tiger stripes are divided into separate pieces, and there are separate ones for the left and right side. Figuring out which stripe connects to which requires detective work at times. But with a little effort it can be done. You just have to take into account that it's an afternoon's work.
The result is worth the work. The combination of orange and black is really attractive and the tiger tail suits Hind very well.
The result is worth the work. The combination of orange and black is really attractive and the tiger tail suits Hind very well.
I assembled the cartridges for the deceptive targets from Eduard etchings, but it was unnecessary work. As long as I had them on the table alone, they looked good. But once I attached them to the hull, the fun was over. Eduard somehow missed the scale and the cartridges are too big. The length of the cartridges is quite adequate, but the height of the individual cartridges and the size of the holes are too large.
For size and shape comparison
- left the cartridges of the photo-etched set
- right resin cartridges of the correct size from the Eduard/Zvezda supplementary set
- left the cartridges of the photo-etched set
- right resin cartridges of the correct size from the Eduard/Zvezda supplementary set
After discovering that the photo-etched decoy decoys intended for the Monogram model were unusable, I reached into Eduardo's limited edition "Hind D" kit and took out the triple decoys for the Hind V (they won't be needed to build the model from this kit).
I cut the triple cartridges in half and sanded the remains of the middle cartridge on both "new" parts. This operation gave me four usable cartridges.
I drilled all the holes for the individual deceptive targets hole by hole with a 0.5 mm drill bit. The reason is obvious from the attached photo. On the left is the redrilled cartridge and on the right the cartridge in its original state.
After two hours of work (with breaks) I had drilled holes in all 4 cartridges.
From the set of photo-etched parts, I ended up using only the center piece and glued all four cartridges to it.
From thin wires and plastic tubes I made ropes for launching the booby traps and glued them to the sides of the cartridges. Shaping them will come after spraying the bullets and gluing them under the tail spar.
Parts of the launcher for Falanga anti-tank missiles as they look in the kit.
After comparing the frame parts with rails for Falanga missiles with the drawing, it is obvious that these parts from the kit are unusable. The load-bearing frame is too subtle, its construction is made of logs instead of flat profiles.
After comparing the frame parts with rails for Falanga missiles with the drawing, it is obvious that these parts from the kit are unusable. The rails are short, too thick and the round holes on the sides are missing.
I will make new frames and use photo-etched parts from the exterior kit (original Eduard etched parts for the Monogram/Revell kit) for the rails.
I will make new frames and use photo-etched parts from the exterior kit (original Eduard etched parts for the Monogram/Revell kit) for the rails.
I cut a 3mm wide strip from a millimetre plastic plate and rounded the edges. Then I cut out the individual parts of the frame base from the strip and glued them together.
I glued pieces cut from a 0,5 mm thick plastic plate to the ends of the frame arms.
I sanded the plastic plates at the ends of the arms so that they slightly overlap the outline of the arms.
I cut a 2 mm wide strip from a 0.5 mm thick plastic sheet. I cut individual pieces from the strip and glued them to the frame arms.
I glued other pieces cut from the same strip perpendicular to the ends of the extended arms.
And finally I sanded the glued plates into shape.
I did all this twice, of course. Just for the record - one frame is made up of 15 parts.
I made a launcher for the Falanga missiles to dock with the completed frames. I used PE parts from Eduard kit to make them.
I made a launcher for the Falanga missiles to dock with the completed frames. I used PE parts from Eduard kit to make them.
After an hour of work, the first launcher is ready.
After an hour of work, the first launcher is ready.
After an hour of work, the first launcher is ready.
After another hour, a second launcher was added. It was a matter of moments to glue them both to the support frame.
After another hour, a second launcher was added. It was a matter of moments to glue them both to the support frame.
After another hour, a second launcher was added. It was a matter of moments to glue them both to the support frame.
I also completed the second launcher for the Falanga missiles.
This image needs no further comment. Above are the original parts from the kit, below are the newly made ones.
Comparison of the Falanga anti-tank missiles from the kit with the drawing shows that these missiles cannot be used. Therefore, I decided to make a set of smoke bombs that were mounted on the frame with the launcher during public flight demonstrations of the helicopter.
I dug through my inventory and pulled out UB-16 rocket launchers from two SU-7 kits. Although the kits are from KoPro, they are de facto molds from OEZ Letohrad. The shape of the missile launchers matches, but the details will need to be fine-tuned.
I drilled small holes in the back of the cone of the rocket launcher, originally they were only indicated by faint dimples.
(above is the rocket launcher before modification, below with the holes already drilled)
(above is the rocket launcher before modification, below with the holes already drilled)
I drilled holes in the front of the missile tubes for individual unguided missiles.
(on the left rocket launcher with drilled holes, on the right in original state)
(on the left rocket launcher with drilled holes, on the right in original state)
Finally, I drilled and sanded a hole in the back of the cone.
(on the left the back of the rocket after modification, on the right the rocket in its original state)
(on the left the back of the rocket after modification, on the right the rocket in its original state)
The rocket modules are finished and the outer surface is sprayed with paint.
I cut the tubes for the smoke pipes out of plastic tubing. After thinning the walls of the tubes, I glued plugs into them. I glued the pipes (4 + 4) together.
The smoke tubes have only been placed on the launcher for a test run so far.
The smoke tubes have only been placed on the launcher for a test run so far.
After checking, I glued cables into the individual tubes to activate the smoke tubes. I used thin wires and plastic insulation. I used slightly thicker wire to make the locking screws. On the underside of the tubes I glued two strips of 0,5 x 0,5 mm profile.
I sprayed the completed smokebox assembly with silver paint.
I painted the lights on the back of the fuselage (for the group flight) orange.
I also painted the wing lights (for group flight) orange.
I also painted the wing lights (for group flight) orange.
The original zipper decals on the hull were too light. So I replaced them with darker decals from Eduard kit. These decals were left to me by a friend who was building his model in other colors.
The original zipper decals on the hull were too light. So I replaced them with darker decals from Eduard kit. These decals were left to me by a friend who was building his model in other colors.
I painted the exhausts and glued them to the engines.
I painted the exhausts and glued them to the engines.
I tried making the launcher cables out of thin wire.
I tried making the launcher cables out of thin wire.
I didn't like the look of the cables. Correctly they look as in this photo.
I made new cables that more closely match the actual look. I used a very thin wire to make them and wound an equally thin wire tightly over it.
I made new cables that more closely match the actual look. I used a very thin wire to make them and wound an equally thin wire tightly over it.
After painting, I glued new ropes to one launcher rail. I am now happy with the result and can add the cables for the second rail. And then I will add the cables for the other launcher.
After painting, I glued new ropes to one launcher rail. I am now happy with the result and can add the cables for the second rail. And then I will add the cables for the other launcher.
After painting, I glued new ropes to one launcher rail. I am now happy with the result and can add the cables for the second rail. And then I will add the cables for the other launcher.
A few views of the Mi-24D accessory test set.
A few views of the Mi-24D accessory test set.
A few views of the Mi-24D accessory test set.
A few views of the Mi-24D accessory test set.
A few views of the Mi-24D accessory test set.
A few views of the Mi-24D accessory test set.
I really like this. That weird bump in the corner is the front landing light cover. The model size of the cover is comparable to a match head.
I really like this. That weird bump in the corner is the front landing light cover. The model size of the cover is comparable to a match head.
I added cables for the second rail on the launcher. Completely "wired" it looks a bit better again.
I added cables for the second rail on the launcher. Completely "wired" it looks a bit better again.
I added cables for the second rail on the launcher. Completely "wired" it looks a bit better again.
On the completed launcher I added a set of smoke bombs used at air days. I made the smoke bombs according to the photo in the book Hrbatá, which is part of the kit by Eduardo. The wires representing the cables to light the smoke tubes have not yet been painted.
On the completed launcher I added a set of smoke bombs used at air days. I made the smoke bombs according to the photo in the book Hrbatá, which is part of the kit by Eduardo. The wires representing the cables to light the smoke tubes have not yet been painted.
On the completed launcher I added a set of smoke bombs used at air days. I made the smoke bombs according to the photo in the book Hrbatá, which is part of the kit by Eduardo. The wires representing the cables to light the smoke tubes have not yet been painted.
I put the flare cassettes on the tail spar. The cassettes are adapted from the triple cassette for Mi-24V from the Zvezda kit, the center connecting piece is PE.
I used thin wire dyed black for the cables. Connectors and grommets are made of plastic tubing.
I used thin wire dyed black for the cables. Connectors and grommets are made of plastic tubing.
I did a little comparison of the launcher for the Falanga missiles.
In all photos on the left is the original part from the Monogram kit (Revell), in the middle is the printed part from the test kit (MH models) and on the right is my model. I added the part from the kit just for comparison. There is no need to discuss that it does not correspond to reality.
In all photos on the left is the original part from the Monogram kit (Revell), in the middle is the printed part from the test kit (MH models) and on the right is my model. I added the part from the kit just for comparison. There is no need to discuss that it does not correspond to reality.
The printed part from the test set is not cleaned, so there are remnants of the support rods in several places.
Although this is a test part, it looks very good. The big plus I see is that it is a complete assembly of the support frame and starter rails and after separating it from the support plate, cleaning and painting it, just glue it to the model and you are done.
Although this is a test part, it looks very good. The big plus I see is that it is a complete assembly of the support frame and starter rails and after separating it from the support plate, cleaning and painting it, just glue it to the model and you are done.
The 3D printed part is really detailed, the small cross struts between the rails are not neglected and in my opinion the part reproduces reality well. The only minor criticism I have is the rendering of the cables. The cables are plain, but correctly the cables on the launcher are armoured so they look slightly knurled. The second, and in my opinion more serious flaw, is that the way the cables are routed to the rear launcher rails on the part does not match reality. The cables on the printed part are routed full length along the side of the launcher rail, which results in a third flaw, namely that the connection connectors on the back of the launcher rail are too angled (sideways).
In fact, the cables in the back form an arc that allows them to go all the way under the side of the launcher and the connection connectors are angled more downward (like on my setup).
And the cables running from the "boxes" on the sides of the launcher rails to the connectors in the vertical part of the wing are not complete. They disappear under the rails and the part leading to the connectors in the wing is completely missing.
Despite the mentioned errors I like the printed parts. Even with the original wiring they are usable and will definitely improve the model. And whoever wants can remove the original cables from the parts, replace them with new ones and add the missing cables to the connectors in the wing. For the more skilled modeler, this is nothing he can't handle.
And the cables running from the "boxes" on the sides of the launcher rails to the connectors in the vertical part of the wing are not complete. They disappear under the rails and the part leading to the connectors in the wing is completely missing.
Despite the mentioned errors I like the printed parts. Even with the original wiring they are usable and will definitely improve the model. And whoever wants can remove the original cables from the parts, replace them with new ones and add the missing cables to the connectors in the wing. For the more skilled modeler, this is nothing he can't handle.
Another part of the newly prepared kit is a set of decoy targets, which was mounted on the tail spar.
The part is again solved as a whole, so again there is no need to assemble the whole from individual parts.
And as with the launcher, it already looks very good as a test print. 🙂
I used modified parts from Zvezda kit on my model. By the time I received the test kit, I had my decoy target kit ready to mount on the model. I'll save the printed part for the next Hind.
I used modified parts from Zvezda kit on my model. By the time I received the test kit, I had my decoy target kit ready to mount on the model. I'll save the printed part for the next Hind.
After cleaning and painting, just add the cables and then glue the whole assembly to the appropriate place on the nodel.
The next part of the set is a rotary four-barrel machine gun. Based on what Monogram offers, the machine gun is decided for my model.
To justify my decision I am attaching some photos comparing the machine gun from the kit (Monogram) and the printed machine gun from the test set. You can easily tell which is which.
To justify my decision I am attaching some photos comparing the machine gun from the kit (Monogram) and the printed machine gun from the test set. You can easily tell which is which.
In order to use the 3D printed machine gun, I had to adjust the width of the cutout in the dome under the bow. I solved this by gluing plates on both sides of the cutout and then grinding them into shape.
Due to the modification of the turret, it holds the machine gun in place without the pins on the side, so the only modification I made to the machine gun is to remove the pins from the sides. And this is what it looks like when put together.
I started to prepare the door to the cargo bay. The parts for the open door from the kit were used as a base. First, I used a thin plastic plate to fill the grooves on the inside of the door. I cemented the small joints with CA glue and sanded them.
On the lower part I added a step, on the base of which I used a photo-etch and supplemented it with an internal structure made of plastic plates. On the upper part I added window frames from a set of photo-etched.
After painting, I glazed the windows in the upper half of the door with thin transparent film and added a rail with gun holders. I used PE parts from the interior set (original set for the Monogram model). The lever mechanism on the right side is an original kit part.
I applied decals with labels to the bottom of the door and added the handle and lever from the photo etch kit.
On the left side of the lower part of the door I glued the door retaining cable holder (again PE) and finally stretched the retaining cable from elastic thread.
You'll have a good view of the cargo area through the open door.
When making the airtight seal for the cargo door, my choice was elastic sewing thread. I have been using it for a long time for various cables and antennas. It's thin enough, slightly flexible, and most importantly, it's synthetic and not hairy like threads made from natural materials. It is easy to paint and glue.
The bulkhead with the access to the cockpit is also clearly visible.
And the spool that the 1500m thread is on will last me a long time.
I hammered two nails into the board about 15 cm apart and threaded a thread between them. I wound 3 threads close together and painted the stretched triple thread with thin glue. After it dried, I painted the threads with the paint I use for tires.
I cut the painted triple thread with scissors and gradually glued it to the edges of the open cargo door.
I cut the painted triple thread with scissors and gradually glued it to the edges of the open cargo door.
I hammered two nails into the board about 15 cm apart and threaded a thread between them. I wound 3 threads close together and painted the stretched triple thread with thin glue. After it dried, I painted the threads with the paint I use for tires.
I cut the painted triple thread with scissors and gradually glued it to the edges of the open cargo door.
I cut the painted triple thread with scissors and gradually glued it to the edges of the open cargo door.
I glued the prepared landing gear legs into the shafts of the main landing gear.
Now I'll be working on the hydraulics and electrics.
Now I'll be working on the hydraulics and electrics.
I glued the prepared landing gear legs into the shafts of the main landing gear.
Now I'll be working on the hydraulics and electrics.
Now I'll be working on the hydraulics and electrics.
The model is already standing on its own two feet. While the legs of the main landing gear are already finally attached, the front landing gear leg is only provisionally attached.
I'll glue it on when it's finished. For now, it's just a half-finished product.
I'll glue it on when it's finished. For now, it's just a half-finished product.
The model is already standing on its own two feet. While the legs of the main landing gear are already finally attached, the front landing gear leg is only provisionally attached.
I'll glue it on when it's finished. For now, it's just a half-finished product.
I'll glue it on when it's finished. For now, it's just a half-finished product.
I used a part from the kit for the nose gear leg. It's pretty accurate, just needs a few details added.
I added a few boxes and rollers to the piston body and landing gear leg. I glued a thin wire rod into the nut on the piston. The nut I made stayed round, cutting a hexagon on a round the size of a pin head is beyond me ... and at that diminutive size, it's hardly visible.
After finishing the details, I painted the front leg of the chassis. I glued a pre-prepared and painted bundle of thin wires into the front of the landing gear shaft. I then glued the front landing gear leg as well.
I shortened the protruding "cables" to the appropriate length and connected them to the front leg and the sensor on the hydraulic piston.
I prepared hydraulic hoses from wire and glued them to the hydraulic piston. Finally, I added a "V" shaped strut (between the center bulkhead and the landing gear leg) that partially covers the hydraulic hoses.
However, when viewed from a different angle, the hydraulic hoses leading to the piston are visible. And that's on the left side...
...as well as the right side. So it wasn't a waste of work.
I added a cover to the front landing gear leg...
... on the undercarriage cover I replaced the protrusion representing the light with a piece of transparent plastic rod cut in the shape of ...
... and I've added a cable to the light on the chassis cover.
... from thin wires of different diameters I made rods from the undercarriage cover to the undercarriage leg ...
According to the information from the helicopter technician, I corrected the color of the hydraulic line to gray.
I glued the wheels to the front chassis. I used resin wheels from Pavla models.
The resin wheels are already dented from the factory (at the point of contact with the ground) and detailed.
On the main chassis legs I added the missing air pressure hoses for the brakes and connected the protruding cables.
After adding the wiring, I glued the wheels on. Like the front ones, the main gear wheels are resin.
All landing gear wheels are in place.
From now on, Hind stands on his own two feet.
From now on, Hind stands on his own two feet.
I made the inner reinforcements for the inside of the main chassis covers from plastic board and glued them to the covers.
I painted the inside of the main landing gear covers with light blue-grey paint.
I made inspection lights from thin transparent rounds, (for optical control of landing gear extension). I glued the lights to the legs of the chassis and attached an electrical cables to them.
I also added small PE parts to represent the towing eyes.
I also added small PE parts to represent the towing eyes.
I added red markings to the landing gear wheels. These were used to check that the tire on the disc hadn't shifted.
On the outside of the left side of the main landing gear cover I glued a decal with the names of those who participated in the production of the special paint of the helicopter.
From thin wire, metal foil and PE part I made a rod for closing the chassis cover and glued it in place.
From thin wire, metal foil and PE part I made a rod for closing the chassis cover and glued it in place.
Finally, I glued on the finished landing gear covers for the main landing gear.
Finally, I glued on the finished landing gear covers for the main landing gear.
An eye has been added to the front wheel of the chassis to secure it in the closed position. I made the eye by modifying a PE part.
The 3D printed parts kit includes a very nice wire basket to protect the landing reflector. To my regret, I won't be using it. The machine I am building did not have this basket.
I added a completed landing reflector to the front of the helicopter fuselage. I illustrated its bulb by drilling a dimple from the back of the reflector. This machine did not have a protective wire reflector basket.
I replaced the rotating machine gun from the kit with one from the 3D printed kit. This machine gun has nice details and matches the real look well.
I glued the painted machine gun into the dome (original part from the kit) and glued the whole assembly into place on the nose of the helicopter.
I glued the painted machine gun into the dome (original part from the kit) and glued the whole assembly into place on the nose of the helicopter.
Although I already had the anti-tank missile launcher ready, I decided to use 3D printed parts. They're even more sophisticated and it would be a shame not to use them.
The only thing I modified on the printed parts were the electrical cables. They are slightly simplified and some of them are missing. So I removed the original cables and replaced them with new ones that I prepared from very thin wires. To illustrate the wrapping, I wrapped the thin wire with a second thin wire.
I made the smoke tubes earlier according to the photos and now I glued them to the finished launcher.
These smoke tubes were non-standard equipment on the helicopter. They were made by a helicopter technician and used in flight demonstrations at air days.
These smoke tubes were non-standard equipment on the helicopter. They were made by a helicopter technician and used in flight demonstrations at air days.
I made the smoke tubes earlier according to the photos and now I glued them to the finished launcher.
These smoke tubes were non-standard equipment on the helicopter. They were made by a helicopter technician and used in flight demonstrations at air days.
These smoke tubes were non-standard equipment on the helicopter. They were made by a helicopter technician and used in flight demonstrations at air days.
The helicopter's suspension armament is complete and ready for mounting on the model.
I used plastic plates of various thicknesses, wires and tubes to make small details for the inside of the cockpit door.
I painted the partially assembled door and added the handle and white label after the paint dried. The door strut remains to be added, but that will come next when the door is glued to the fuselage.
I made a hermetic seal out of flexible sewing thread (same as the cargo door) and glued it around the perimeter of the front cab entry opening.
I also glued a gasket to the cockpit entry hole. After gluing the seal, I glued the door.
Another door is in place.
I added a strut to the cockpit door.
The pilot and operator cabins also have their own doors. I also added a red emergency door release lever to the cockpit frame.
I added a defogging system to the inside of the door frame.
The original rotor head from the kit has the wrong levers for turning the rotor blades.
I replaced the bad levers for turning the rotor blades with new ones. I made these out of plastic plates.
On the tail rotor, I modified the shape of the blades by beveling them slightly (on the narrow side closer to the center of the rotor).
I modified the shape of the three-armed rotor blade tilt control lever.
I sprayed the bottom part of the rotor leaves with black paint and the end curves of the leaves with yellow paint (the yellow ends of the rotor leaves are only on the bottom side).
Although the rotors are not finished, the bow rotor in particular is still waiting for minor shape modifications and missing parts to be completed and both rotors are still without paint. However, I was curious to see how the Hind would look with these rotors. Well, while I was trying it out, I also took a picture of the Hind with the rotors.
Although the rotors are not finished, the bow rotor in particular is still waiting for minor shape modifications and missing parts to be completed and both rotors are still without paint. However, I was curious to see how the Hind would look with these rotors. Well, while I was trying it out, I also took a picture of the Hind with the rotors.
I sprayed the top of the rotor blades with green paint.
I made the contour lights located in the end curves of the rotor blades out of transparent plastic. Before painting the rotor blades, I cut a groove in the end curves. I glued a stick of clear plastic into the groove, which I sanded and finally polished after the glue dried. And before spraying the paint, I covered the light with masking tape.
I sprayed the tail rotor with grey paint and after it dried, I sprayed red paint on the tips of the rotor blades.
Although the helicopter has been carefully treated, there are fine traces of smoke burns on the fuselage. I used patina powder to mark the smoke marks from the exhaust on the sides of the fuselage. The harsh light of the lamp highlighted the smoke a bit, in daylight the smoke is more subtle.
Although the helicopter has been carefully treated, there are fine traces of smoke burns on the fuselage. I used patina powder to mark the smoke marks from the exhaust on the sides of the fuselage. The harsh light of the lamp highlighted the smoke a bit, in daylight the smoke is more subtle.
I added a spur to the tail spar.
Launchers are added to the wings. The activation cables for the smoke generators are not yet properly installed.
Launchers are added to the wings. The activation cables for the smoke generators are not yet properly installed.
The rotor blades have sprayed leading edges.
The rotor blades have sprayed leading edges.
Leading edge of the rotor blade from the underside with finished leading edge and outline light.
Tail rotor with painted leading edges.
Tail rotor blade in detail.
The armament carried on the wings is already complete.
I added a (previously made) set of rotor control levers to the fuselage.
The armament carried on the wings is already complete.
The cables to activate the smoke generator are already installed.
I added a painted cover with tiger stripes to the top of the rotor head.
I added the rotor blade control mechanism.
I also added a rotor blade control mechanism on the tail rotor.
I added antennas, antenna posts and a beacon to the top of the tail spar.
I also added antenna posts to the lower fuselage.
I added a running board to the starboard side of the nose of the helicopter.
I added a temperature sensor in front of the front landing leg cover. I made this out of thin silver wire.
I added PZU filters to the air inlets of the engines.
I finished applying stencils to the underside of the main rotor blades. They are very small, there are 26 of them on one sheet and they are all applied individually.
Na všech pěti listech rotoru je celkem 130 drobných šablon. Každá se nanáší jednotlivě. Na tuto práci si nechte alespoň jedno odpoledne. Já si nanášení šablon rozdělil na dva dny.
Today I added the last missing details and finished the model.
For now I am attaching some quick photos.
For now I am attaching some quick photos.
Comentarios
126 20 April 2023, 21:56
Ludvík KružíkThis is going to be a bit of a "crazy" build. There will be a lot of cutting and modifying, including using conversion kits and making new parts. Just the way I like it. I was really looking forward to this build.
I've thought through and prepared a build procedure, checked the condition of the kit and conversion kits ...
The starting countdown is on. 🙂
First pictures of the build will follow soon.
20 April 2023, 22:13
Eric ThorntonFollowing! I built this kit in the 80s when I was a kid, fun build.
20 April 2023, 22:38
Ludvík KružíkWelcome, Eric! I hope you have as much fun with my build as you did with yours back in the 80s.
20 April 2023, 22:46
JohnI too built this kit back in the day, fun build for sure. Great outcome on the fuselage surgery! It's going to look great sitting on its wheels with the tilt. I know the kit is supposed to be poor, but outside details are not bad at all. The 4+ books are great references. 👍
21 April 2023, 13:05
bughunterA new show - I'm in!
You are right with pic 9. No helicopter is horizontal, at least in the air. The main rotor must compensate for the thrust of the tail rotor so that the helicopter does not shift sideways. Some helicopters stand straight on the skids, but then take off with one skid first.
21 April 2023, 15:45
Ludvík Kružík@John
I like old kits with all their faults. They give me room to develop my skills. And this kit is very good from my point of view. I certainly wouldn't guess it's 40 years old. If you don't insist on a perfect match to the kit, it can be a nice model without modification.
@bughunter
@Robert
Welcome to my new show. Sit back and make yourself comfortable. I'm very honored by your kindness.
21 April 2023, 22:21
JohnLudvik, I totally agree on old kits, especially old Monogram/Revell. They are usually very detailed even if fits is not great. Accuracy is also pretty good most times, at least for western subjects. I get the feeling for the Hind they only had access to pictures but it's a good kit all the same, glad to see you doing it justice.
22 April 2023, 00:25
Ludvík KružíkHey, Alec, welcome aboard. That's right, there's another helicopter. And as the first photos of the model build showed, it's definitely not OOB 😄. There's gonna be a lot of cutting, but relax, no blood will flow. Except maybe mine, if I'm not careful enough.
22 April 2023, 06:05
Ludvík KružíkI didn't have much time to build the model this weekend, but I did manage to do something.
23 April 2023, 21:26
TH SCALE MODELS (Thomas Haberl)You are crazy, mate ... 😆😆😆 I'm very interested in this build, even if I'm not that crazy as you ... I'm trying to get in my comfort zone with "normal" kits at the moment. 👍
25 April 2023, 19:37
Ludvík KružíkThomas, thank you for your interest in my project.
That's the beauty of this hobby. Anyone can modify it as they see fit. This craziness is my comfort zone ... ... and this kit is normal for me 😄 😄 😄
--------
I continue to work on the cockpits. Since I want to keep both cockpits and the right door to the transport cabin open, I'll have to play around with the interior. The cockpits are very simplified in the kit. It will be like working on a church. Cutting continues. I cut the base with both cockpits into smaller parts. I cut out all the excess. I've prepared new parts from plastic plates and I'm gluing them in place.
I didn't get a chance to take pictures today, so hopefully tomorrow.
25 April 2023, 21:47
Ludvík KružíkI added some pictures of the model construction. Not much to brag about yet.
26 April 2023, 21:51
Ludvík KružíkApart from "enjoying" the cycles of puttying and sanding on the modified half of the fuselage, I started to gradually assemble the cockpits.
I've already cut everything that could be cut... it's time to start putting it all together. 😄
28 April 2023, 22:48
Ludvík KružíkWelcome, Guy!
The installation of the cockpits into the fuselage will now follow. Due to the extensive modifications to the fuselage and interior, this will be a slow and time consuming process.
30 April 2023, 20:23
Ludvík KružíkThis weekend I had very little time for modelling (as expected). I practically only had a little time this afternoon. So progress is very moderate. But I still managed to get a few things done.
1 May 2023, 21:31
Alec KI am always amazed how much modeling time you are able to put in. True dedication! It's coming along very nicely 👍
2 May 2023, 00:20
Ludvík KružíkAlec, it's a little different. For me, working on a model is not a sacrifice, it's fun. The more work on the model, the more fun. 😄
2 May 2023, 07:43
Alec KWholeheartedly agree! I meant that I wonder, and envy, the amount of time you dedicate to the craft 👍. Modeling is about the journey, not the destination 🙂
2 May 2023, 11:09
Ludvík KružíkI have the advantage of having grown children and free time after work. I usually have time to model in the afternoons. So I take advantage of that. I'd rather model for a little while every day than all day once a week 🙂.
2 May 2023, 17:54
Ludvík KružíkThe "sculpting work" on the model slowly continues. I spent this afternoon modifying the front undercarriage shaft.
2 May 2023, 19:41
Jakub FialaExcellent work, Ludvíku! I really like, how you pay attention to details.
3 May 2023, 11:20
Ludvík KružíkI've added more details to the landing gear shaft. All that's left is to cut off the open landing gear cover and I can glue the landing gear shaft into the fuselage.
3 May 2023, 22:19
Jennifer Franklinok wow, this is a major project. you are recreating the real thing using the basic model as the basis with a lot of adjustments. I am impressed. This is very inspiring. For someone just starting out with their first scale model this is a little mind-blowing. Something to aspire to.
5 May 2023, 06:59
Ludvík KružíkThe basis for building interiors is ready. Now I will start to gradually produce and add interior equipment.
5 May 2023, 22:04
Ludvík KružíkJennifer, thank you for the kind words! I believe that as you build more models and gain more experience, you will be able to make different modifications to your models. 🙂
7 May 2023, 06:40
Ludvík KružíkAfter adjusting the shape and size of the exhaust holes, I continue to work on the interior parts.
7 May 2023, 21:25
bughunterAfter a while I looked again in this build. OMG, you spent a lot of effort. Wouldn't it be easier to build this from a more modern kit? I mean Eduard is still offering the overtrees kit, to save money.
At least that is how I would act. Yes, you can certainly get everything right and I also scratch parts that are not available elsewhere. But if something modern is available, I'm lazy and save time for the next project. Maybe that comes with age. A friend used to say: life is too short for bad kits. 😉
But my worries need not bother you, if the way is the goal, just get on with it. 👍
9 May 2023, 18:30
Ludvík KružíkFrank, I know Eduardo's kits very well. I have both the aforementioned Overtrees kit and the limited edition Mi-24D at home. I want to use them later to build other machines used by the Czech Air Force. I agree with you that Eduard's kits (which are Zvezda mouldings) are much better than this one from Monogram. I also know that most modelers prefer to reach for a nice new kit (if available). Your friend is right. But in my case I would add - life is too short for bad kits unless modifying them is your goal. 😉
10 May 2023, 21:46
Ludvík KružíkI added details in the transport cabin and glued the partially assembled transport cabin to the right half of the fuselage.
10 May 2023, 22:58
Ludvík KružíkI spent this afternoon modifying the port side of the transport cabin.
12 May 2023, 21:30
Ludvík KružíkThank you, Robert.
Work continues on the left wall of the transport cabin.
14 May 2023, 21:42
Ludvík KružíkThe transport cab is almost complete, just need to finish the folding bench and install it in the cab.
16 May 2023, 10:13
Ludvík KružíkI have added more photos from the construction. There is still a lot of work to be done before gluing the two halves of the fuselage together.
16 May 2023, 22:07
JohnThere always is, and if you're like me, you see something you forgot to do right after the glue dries.
16 May 2023, 23:12
Ludvík KružíkYes, John, I know that from personal experience. Murphy's Laws work in model building, too. "The likelihood that a part that's just glued on can be peeled off later without damage is less likely the more you need to peel it off." 😄
16 May 2023, 23:49
Ludvík KružíkI didn't work on the model today. Instead I visited the military airport in Čáslav. During the open day there were static and flight demonstrations of selected aircraft. Among others, this Mi-24V with a very nice anniversary paint job took part in this event.
20 May 2023, 21:40
Ludvík KružíkI'm glad you like the photos.
More photos from the open day at the military airport in Čáslav can be seen here: eu.zonerama.com/LudvikKruzik/Album/9818004
21 May 2023, 20:33
Ludvík KružíkI finished modifying the main rotor reducer part and added instrument panels to the cockpit.
27 May 2023, 20:32
Ludvík KružíkThanks, Alec. 🙂
Now the progress is even greater. I glued the fuselage halves together, extended the tail spar to the correct length and adjusted the rudder pitch. It's starting to look like a helicopter. 😄
28 May 2023, 19:28
Jennifer FranklinNot only is it starting to look like a helicopter Ludvik, it's starting to look exactly like the real thing 🙂
29 May 2023, 01:59
Ludvík KružíkBefore I glue the part with the air inlets to the engines and the oil cooler to the fuselage, I have to finish the corridor between the cockpit and the transport cabin.
30 May 2023, 23:17
Slavo HazuchaWell - with every step this gets closer & closer to building an actual Hind helicopter... 😉
31 May 2023, 11:39
Ludvík KružíkWelcome, Slavo!
My goal is to make the built model as close as possible to the real machine. 🙂
31 May 2023, 18:13
Mr JamesScratch building 101 from Ludvik. Your dedication to authenticity is admirable. Bloody good work 🙂
31 May 2023, 18:39
Ludvík KružíkToday I added the missing bits and pieces to the connecting corridor.
31 May 2023, 18:41
bughunterThis amount of detail helps definitely to give the impression of a real machine 👍
31 May 2023, 18:42
Ludvík KružíkThank you, mates!
@Mr James
Thank you for your kind words, I appreciate them.
@bughunter
Unfortunately, some of these details won't be very visible. But it wouldn't be the same without them. 😉
31 May 2023, 23:20
Ludvík KružíkAnother little progress.
I've made a padded ceiling for the corridor between the cockpit and the transport cabin.
2 June 2023, 09:43
Łukasz GlińskiOh wow, that's an extensive refactor of an old kit. Hats off Ludviku! 👍
7 June 2023, 08:11
NeilGosh! This is fabulously accomplished work... Following with great interest 👍 Obviously I love an old (vintage!) kit being worked up! And with your skills Ludvik the end result is highly anticipated 👍
7 June 2023, 08:16
Ludvík KružíkWelcome, Łukasz and Neil! Thank you for your kind comments 🙂
I have been planning to build this model for a long time. And when I found instructions on Czech modelling forum how to deflect the fuselage to make the model match the reality, it was decided. I was so impressed with the fuselage deflection procedure that I decided to try it. And since I had gone to the trouble of deflecting the fuselage, I decided to try to fix the other shape errors in this model (at least the ones I can fix). I recognize that with the existence of a good quality kit of this helicopter from Zvezda (the Eduard kit contains the same Zvezda parts), working on rebuilding this kit may seem like a waste of time. But the thing is, I love these rebuilds and even though they aren't perfect, I have a great time doing them. 😉
7 June 2023, 22:35
Ludvík KružíkAlec, a wire clamp is basically improvisation. Once glued to the fuselage, the air intake section had to be held in place until the glue dried. The modeling clamp was unusable in this case, it was impossible to attach it so that the clamp would push the glued part to the back of the tail and down at the same time. So using wire was a simple solution that met all the requirements without fail 😄.
7 June 2023, 22:50
Ludvík KružíkAlthough the cockpit seats are adapted for seated parachutists, due to the low altitude of operational flights, the crew did not usually use parachutes. Instead of a parachute, a part with a padded seat cushion was then inserted into the seat. Therefore, I made the seats with this padded part.
12 June 2023, 21:45
bughunterNice seats and interesting information about the parachutes! Will the rotor be blown away when they want to get out?
13 June 2023, 08:09
Ludvík KružíkThank you, Villiers!
@bughunter
When we talk about the Mil Mi-24 helicopter, we should keep two things in mind.
First - the Mi-24 is a Russian machine
Second - its design was designed in the second half of the 60s. The first prototype flew in 1971 and the "D" version went into production in 1973, 50 years ago.
Russian (Soviet) aircraft designs are known for their expediency, everything is subordinated to the purpose and you won't find anything unnecessary. Crew comfort and safety are only marginally addressed and only to the extent necessary.
The crew rescue system, as we know it from modern Western designs, is not in the MI-24. Its seats are not ejection seats. The pilot's seat and the gunner's seat are only modified to allow sitting on them with a parachute attached. The flight engineer does not have a seat either (in Czech Mi-24 crews used an improvised seat in the corridor between the cockpit and the transport cabin). The flight engineer has his parachute placed in the transport cabin.
In case of serious damage to the helicopter, the rotor blades cannot be dropped. The crew would be rescued from the helicopter much like the pilots in World War II. The pilot would exit through the open door on the right side of the cabin, the gunner through the open door to his cabin, and the flight engineer through the open door to the transport cabin on the left or right side. All this with the rotor spinning overhead and the auxiliary wings behind the back.
That this is not a good solution is evidenced by one of the few known cases where a Russian crew attempted to jump out of a helicopter. Two crew members were killed and one suffered serious injuries.
13 June 2023, 21:27
Ludvík KružíkI finished the rear cabin (for the helicopter pilot) and started adding equipment to the front cabin (for the gunner).
Unlike the cockpit for the pilot, where I used photo-etched sheet metal parts, I will have to make a lot of new parts in the front cockpit for the gunner.
16 June 2023, 20:52
Ludvík KružíkThe instruments and equipment on the starboard side of the cockpit for the gunner are in place.
18 June 2023, 21:46
Ludvík KružíkThank you Alec! Progress on the interior continues.
I spent this afternoon gluing a lot of little pieces... and then gluing even smaller pieces on top of them... making a scope for the gunner's cockpit.
19 June 2023, 21:57
bughunterUff - forgot yesterday to save my comment 🙁
You re doing a great job detailing this heli 👍
21 June 2023, 18:29
Ludvík KružíkThank you my friends, I appreciate it very much.
There are just a few last details to finish the gunner's cabin. Then I'll continue with the cockpit covers.
21 June 2023, 20:48
Ludvík KružíkNothing to photograph yet. I got to my "favorite" discipline, cabin masking. Since I don't have a cutting plotter or the original Monogram/Revell masks, I have no choice but to mask by gradually measuring, cutting and taping masking tape. And since I'll have both cabs open, I'll be masking both the outside and the inside. So far, I've masked off the hard part of the front cab cover from the inside.
While I'm masking the cab, I'm thinking about how to make "ridges" for the air distribution that blows away from the cab and prevents it from fogging up.
23 June 2023, 08:27
Ludvík Kružík@bughunter
Glad you like it.
I'm taking baby steps, but I'm moving forward. Today I finished installing the defogging system for the glass cockpit gunner cover.
28 June 2023, 20:12
Robert PodkońskiThat's a superdetailed mastermodeller work - keep it up, Ludviku!
29 June 2023, 05:04
Ludvík Kružík@Robert
@Zsolt
Thank you both for your kind posts. It's a great motivation for me to continue my work. 🙂
I try to make the interior of the helicopter as close to reality as possible. Thanks to the selfless help of a Czech colleague I got very detailed photos. After studying the photos I found that there are many details in the cockpits that I didn't know about. That's why the work on the interior started to take a bit longer.
I have already finished the cockpit for the gunner-operator, now I am working on the cockpit for the captain-pilot. It's extra work, I have to make new, mostly very small parts, but it would be a great pity not to use detailed photos with information about the appearance of the interior of the helicopter. I'm a bit disappointed that some of the details are so small (in the 1:48 scale the model is in) that I can't produce them without simplifying, but I've come to terms with that. 😉
29 June 2023, 09:21
AlexanderAbsolutely breathtaking results - I am really in awe of your scratch-building skills! 👍👍👍
Definitely looking forward to the rest of the build.
1 July 2023, 12:38
Bruce HuxtableI'm very impressed by your detailed knowledge of the real deal, and your efforts to recreate so much in your creation. There is so much going on inside, is there any space left for the crew? 😉
1 July 2023, 19:58
Ludvík KružíkBruce, thank you for your kind words.
You're right, both cockpits are crammed with lots of instruments and controls. The design of this helicopter dates back to the late '60s. The machine doesn't have many of the conveniences we're familiar with in western designs. Most of the functions are operated manually, at best semi-automatically. To give you an idea, there are over 300 controls and instruments in both cockpits and the flight engineer's station. A relatively large number of controls are grouped together and can be operated together with a single lever, but there are still enough to keep the crew busy during the flight.
1 July 2023, 20:49
Ludvík KružíkWork on the model continues. I glued the transparent cabin covers and some small parts on the fuselage.
2 July 2023, 22:11
Ludvík KružíkThank you, Villiers. I try to work on the model every day for a little while, if time permits. 😉
3 July 2023, 09:57
Ludvík KružíkNo pictures today. There was nothing to take pictures of.
I lightly sanded the joint between the cabin and fuselage overlays. I also sanded the entire fuselage with fine sandpaper and prepared it for surfacer spray. I'll spray the surfacer tomorrow if I can. And I may be able to engrave new lines on part of the fuselage. We'll see.
3 July 2023, 21:05
Ludvík KružíkIn between engraving new lines on the helicopter fuselage, I am gradually modifying other parts that I will need when I finish engraving.
7 July 2023, 08:07
Ludvík KružíkI finished engraving the new lines on the fuselage and glued some minor surface details to the modified fuselage.
9 July 2023, 20:02
Ludvík Kružík@Agnius, @Villiers
Thank you for your kind posts and I hope you continue to enjoy my modelling.
10 July 2023, 09:49
Ludvík KružíkRobert, you may be right. I think the current heat is to blame for my insanity. 😄 😄 😄
Now comes the even crazier stuff - the manufacture of hydraulic manifolds and landing gear tilting mechanism.
13 July 2023, 08:15
Ludvík KružíkThe first stage of work on the space for the landing gear is complete. 🙂
15 July 2023, 21:59
Ludvík KružíkFurther progress in model building. I added wings to the fuselage and sprayed the whole model with surfacer.
16 July 2023, 19:40
Ludvík KružíkWelcome, Rando! I'm glad you like my build, and I hope you have a good time.
17 July 2023, 10:33
RandoIt's very cool and also inspiration for my own F-8 Crusader build, which I'm attempting some scratchbuilding and modifications on. Definitely taking notes here!
17 July 2023, 11:02
Alec KI see that the "great revealer" has been applied 🙂. This thing is getting to the finish line and it's going to look awesome 👍
17 July 2023, 12:35
Ludvík Kružík@Rando
I'm really glad that building my model inspires you and I wish you that the F-8 Crusader will turn out the way you want.
@Alec K
Thank you for the kind words. Finishing won't be so fast. There is still a lot of work to do on the model ...
And I'm going on a short vacation in the middle of this week, so work on the model will stop for a few days.
18 July 2023, 11:18
Ludvík KružíkI'm back from a short vacation. I missed Hind already, so as soon as I had some time I started working again. 😄
26 July 2023, 20:36
inkilas32Wow.... I've never seen anybody so dedicated to a model.. Your work is amazing, you should run a youtube channel!
27 July 2023, 06:51
Ludvík Kružíkinkilas32 Welcome! Thank you for your kind words. I appreciate it very much. It's an encouragement for me to keep working.
I don't intend to have my own YouTube channel (at least in the near future). There are several reasons, but the main one is that making quality videos is time consuming. I prefer to spend that time building my models. 😉
27 July 2023, 09:48
Ludvík KružíkThere has not been much progress today. I sanded off the putty at the wing/fuselage transition with fine sandpaper. After spraying the sanded areas with surfacer, there were a few spots that needed minor repairs. I reapplied putty to the damaged areas.
I finished the day's work where I started it. The circle has come full circle. 😄
27 July 2023, 17:36
Ludvík KružíkSo I added a job because of my stupidity. When I sanded the transitions between the wings and the fuselage, I tried so hard that I sanded the trailing edges of the wings into an arc. It wasn't catastrophic, but it was visible. So now I have to fix it.
Oh well... there's a price to pay for stupidity.
28 July 2023, 08:53
Ludvík KružíkThe repair of the trailing edges of the wings was successful, so I can continue working. 🙂
28 July 2023, 11:18
Ludvík Kružík@Villiers
It was a delay, but I think the fix was pretty successful. 😉
__________________________________
Thank you all for watching and your likes.
28 July 2023, 15:31
Ludvík Kružík@bughunter
Yes, I spent a lot of time on this model and modified or made many parts. But that's what I enjoy most about it. I don't consider it time wasted, but time spent having great fun. 🙂
As far as I can tell, you enjoy building models too. I can't imagine you building your beautiful models if you didn't enjoy it 😉.
@Alexander
Thank you for your kind post. Even though I know my model won't be perfect, I try to make it look as good as possible.
29 July 2023, 12:02
JohnLudvik, looking really good. I have to say the desire to improve a kit, even if a more recent one is available is quite strong! At least if it can be made into a good model...some are nearly beyond hope like a Lindbergh F-11F for example. I "did my time" with the monogram Mi-24 many years ago and sadly binned it later after completion or I would post but my efforts were not nearly so extensive as yours. I have the Zvezda kit now because I don't want to "do it all again" but the lack of rivets is a well known issue with it, so a question: where did you obtain the prints you are using as a rivet guide? I'm not afraid of a rivet tool and don't want to pay so much for a set of the rivet decals!
29 July 2023, 17:17
Ludvík KružíkJohn, thank you for your interest in my build. For riveting I use drawings from the "4+" publication dedicated to the Mi-24. I also have drawings that I have gradually traced on the Internet.
29 July 2023, 22:28
Ludvík KružíkI finished riveting. Now I have to sand the whole hull with fine sandpaper. This will remove the extruded material on the edges of the rivets.
31 July 2023, 15:02
Ludvík KružíkI sprayed light grey paint on the fuselage and wings of the helicopter.
2 August 2023, 18:48
Ludvík KružíkThank you Alec! One step closer to the goal again. But I still have a lot of work to do.
I had an interesting day today. When I was posting the last photos from the model building process on the Czech modelling forum, I found a message with a phone number and the phrase "call me". And so it happened that I had a chat with the pilot of the helicopter I am building. 🙂
3 August 2023, 16:41
Ludvík KružíkDuring my conversation with the pilot, I learned that the gray paint on the helicopter was very light (even lighter than the one I used). So I added two more coats of white paint and now the grey is the right shade.
3 August 2023, 17:13
bughunterWhat a great surprise to talk to the pilot 👍 That's actually impossible with my projects, but it would be so nice. I would ask so many questions that we can never get an answer to today.
With paint our models will look even nicer.
3 August 2023, 20:21
Ludvík KružíkYou're right, Frank. Talking to the pilot was a big and mostly pleasant surprise. I learned a lot of interesting things. And if our plans work out, we'll meet in person. He'd love to see my model when it's ready.
4 August 2023, 06:30
Ludvík Kružík@Rando
This machine received a special paint job in April 1994 for the 20th anniversary of the Prostejov Helicopter Regiment. Hence the big blue 20s on the fuselage sides. The tiger accessories symbolize belonging to the Tiger Squadron. One of the authors of this paint is a pilot who flew this machine.
@Robert
I also like these special colors. If there is a special paint for the machine I want to build, my model usually gets it. The only exception is very complex paints, unless there are decals for them. Such as the Mi-24V known as the Alien. This paint job is beyond my capabilities and decals (unfortunately) do not exist.
5 August 2023, 13:39
Ludvík KružíkI finished the tiger tail today. I must commend KoPro for the quality of the decals. The color matching is excellent, the small lettering is legible. Although the decals are beautifully thin, they don't break or tear, the color of the model doesn't show through, and they follow the surface beautifully once applied. Placing them on the model requires detective work in places, but with a little research it can be done.
5 August 2023, 17:26
Ludvík KružíkThank you, Williers. I think I've come a long way since I started building the Hind. 🙂
6 August 2023, 19:40
Ludvík KružíkRichard, thank you for your appreciation. It's an encouragement to my modeling soul. 🙂
14 August 2023, 20:44
Ludvík KružíkAfter assembling the decoy targets from PE parts, I found that the parts were too large. So I used parts from the Hind D kit from Eduard. The parts I used are designed for the "Hind V" version and are not needed when building the "D" version (from the Eduard kit).
16 August 2023, 20:45
Ludvík KružíkI'm continuing the build by manufacturing the launcher for the Falanga missiles.
18 August 2023, 22:04
Villiers de VosYour scratch building skills are phenomenal. This project does not cease to amaze me.
19 August 2023, 06:08
Ludvík KružíkVilliers, I appreciate your compliments. It's very kind of you, and I was pleased to hear it. I enjoy scratch building very much. Unlike "just" building models, it's an activity where I can create new things with my own hands. And that brings me great satisfaction. 🙂 But I think you overestimate my scratch building skills.
20 August 2023, 07:46
Ludvík KružíkRobert, my skills lie in a small amount of skill and a large amount of patience. 😉
-----------
Last time I finished the support frames for the Falanga anti-tank missiles, so today I started building the launcher. I used PE parts from the Eduard interior kit (for the Monogram kit).
So far I have finished one assembly. I have yet to build the second one.
20 August 2023, 20:09
AlexanderPatience is part of the skillset 😉
A skillset that is excellently demonstrated by the launchers - leagues better than the kit offering! 👍
21 August 2023, 00:42
Ludvík KružíkFrames with anti-tank missile launchers are ready. Unfortunately the Falanga missiles that are in the kit are bad and cannot be used. Instead I will make a set of smoke bombs that were mounted on the launchers for the air show demonstrations. I'll have to make the smoke pipes from scratch, but their shape is very simple, so making them won't be a hassle.
21 August 2023, 21:21
Ludvík KružíkAfter small moments, I'm busy building the model. This time it was the turn of the UB-16 rocket launchers. This afternoon I managed to prepare two rocket launchers, the other two will be ready tomorrow.
22 August 2023, 22:33
Ludvík KružíkThis week I'm in a bad way with free time, somehow I'm not getting enough time to model. I just managed to modify the remaining two rocket launchers. So not much progress . 🙁
24 August 2023, 21:43
Ludvík KružíkOver the weekend I painted the rocket launchers and made new smoke tubes.
28 August 2023, 08:29
Ludvík KružíkI'm back from vacation and again I'm continuing to work on the model. 🙂
10 September 2023, 20:48
JohnThose launcher racks are amazing. I know how small those things are and that is some really delicate detail work!
11 September 2023, 03:30
Alec KWelcome back! More info on the accessory test set please. Self made, or what?
12 September 2023, 12:59
Ludvík KružíkAlec, you managed to ask while I was writing a message with more information 🙂.
The kit is made by 3D printing method, it is designed for 1:48 model by Zvezda and includes parts for modification of the model to Mi-24D version. The kit includes a rotary machine gun, sensors under the nose with targeting optics and homing antennas for the Falanga anti-tank missiles, 2 pieces of launchers for the Falanga missiles, cases for decoy targets and 2 pieces of the front landing reflector cover.
The kit, sent to me by a friend to try out (as I'm currently building a Hind), is a test copy and will be for sale once the minor details are fine-tuned. It will be available for purchase from MH models.
12 September 2023, 13:58
Ludvík KružíkFor this model, I decided to use a launcher that I made before the test kit was delivered. I will keep the parts of the new launcher from the test kit to build another Hind from the Eduard/Zvezda kit.
I've been short on time lately, so work on the model is progressing slowly. But there is a little progress. I finished one launcher and added a set of smoke tubes to it, used at air days.
13 September 2023, 21:18
Ludvík KružíkThe work is progressing slowly due to lack of time. 🙁
But there is some progress.
19 September 2023, 06:51
Ludvík KružíkMy free time is slowly returning to normal and work on the model is starting to pick up speed. 🙂
19 September 2023, 23:38
Ludvík KružíkYesterday I repainted a few small parts with paint, repainted the silver rocket launchers white and the inside of the cargo door grey-blue. After the paint dried I still managed to glass the top half of the doors.
And today I finished the open cargo door.
21 September 2023, 19:14
Ludvík KružíkThank you, mates. 🙂
Just need to finish the landing gear and add some small details. But it's the small details that take the most work.
24 September 2023, 18:16
Ludvík KružíkI didn't get to model this weekend. But this afternoon it was better.
I added airtight seals to the edges of the open cargo door and then started work on the landing gear.
25 September 2023, 20:55
Ludvík KružíkRando, this machine has a retractable chassis.
On my model the chassis is not yet finished. I still need to add the electrical cables, hydraulic lines and open landing gear shaft covers.
... and of course the wheels.
26 September 2023, 08:25
Ludvík KružíkThe front landing gear leg is almost complete. All that's left is to add the cover, the cover closing rods and the wheels.
29 September 2023, 22:54
Ludvík KružíkI finished the front landing gear leg. The last thing that's still missing are the wheels. I'll add those when the main chassis is done as well.
30 September 2023, 20:23
Ludvík KružíkSmall correction. When I finished the front undercarriage shaft and posted the photos on the Czech modelling forum, I got the information that the piping in the rear part of the shaft is not beige, but light grey. So as always the correct information comes late. Fortunately it can still be corrected. Then the front landing gear will actually be finished.
30 September 2023, 20:53
Shar DipreeI find it indescribable what you conjure up with the old kit. I'm really excited when the Mi-24 is ready. Plus a chic special paint job (I'm a fan of special paint jobs)
1 October 2023, 08:22
Ludvík KružíkShar Dipree thank you for your kind words. I appreciate them very much.
I like specialty polishes. Some of them are very nice. If there is an option for a special paint job, I prefer it over the regular military markings.
1 October 2023, 08:46
Ludvík KružíkA mistake in the colour of the hydraulic pipe in the front chassis shaft has been corrected. It is now a light grey colour. The error was due to the poorer quality of the photos I had available. The photos were taken in poorer lighting conditions and the light grey colour looked like light beige in them.
1 October 2023, 08:52
AlexanderI am just silently watching here as I am too much in awe with your scratch-building skills.
1 October 2023, 19:33
Ludvík KružíkAlexander, your words are very flattering. I'm very happy about them and I appreciate them. I enjoy scratch-building very much. I like creative work. That's why I like to invent and make small accessories for my models. The most work I do is figuring out what to make and how to make it. The production itself is not that difficult.
1 October 2023, 20:54
Ludvík KružíkAs of tonight, the Hind stands on its own two feet. A few small things (landing gear shaft covers, indicator lights on the main landing gear legs, red marks on the wheels) remain to be added and the landing gear will be ready. 🙂
1 October 2023, 21:33
RandoYour work continues to inspire my own, Ludvik! Definitely going to try elastic sewing thread. Always enjoy seeing new updates on this amazing model
2 October 2023, 03:55
Ludvík KružíkRando, thank you for your kind words. I am very pleased that my way of building the model inspires you. 🙂
I bought the elastic sewing thread (picture 366) mainly for making various ropes, such as antennas or rigging on old aircraft types.
This elastic sewing thread is thin and strong enough. It stretches less than modeling elastic thread. However, unlike modeling elastic thread, this sewing thread is braided from several filaments and therefore its surface is more similar to steel rope, which has also been braided from several thin filaments. I don't know if the sewing thread mentioned is available in your area. In any case, be careful when choosing a sewing thread. The thread must be made of man-made fibres. Threads made of natural materials are not suitable because they are hairy.
2 October 2023, 10:33
CaptGPFWow! So much scratch building and mods on such a basic kit to make it shine! You sir, are a penultimate modeler who exemplifies the saying that the end result is not the kit, it's the modeler!
2 October 2023, 15:37
Ludvík KružíkCaptGPF thank you so much for the compliment! It's a motivation for me to keep working.
With a bit of exaggeration I dare to apply the saying about women to modelers:
There are no bad kits, only unimaginative modelers. 😄
3 October 2023, 11:44
JohnI still find it hard to believe this is the same old Monogram kit. It's looking amazing, Ludvik. I will slightly disagree with you about bad kits. The Lindbergh F-11F is terrible. 😉
5 October 2023, 00:39
Ludvík KružíkJohn, thank you so much for the compliment. I appreciate it. I can assure you that it is still an old Monogram kit and there has been no secret swap for a better model. 😉
My words about bad kits were meant with a degree of hyperbole. Of course there are really bad kits. It's just that the threshold for when it's bad is somewhere different for every modeler.
5 October 2023, 07:16
RandoFunny you mention John, I actually built that one earlier this year to practice building and painting 50-60s navy scheme. Was indeed a pig but it looks good enough hanging in my son's bedroom. You'd really have to love the plane to go above and beyond on that kit.
Gear is looking beautiful, Ludvik!! Nice decal on the gear door too.
5 October 2023, 22:14
Ludvík KružíkRando, that's really a coincidence. John mentioned the F-11F in response to my edited quote about models and modelers.
The nameplate has the names of the people involved in the special paint job on this helicopter.
5 October 2023, 22:46
Ludvík KružíkThe landing gear is complete. It's time to move on to the other details. 🙂
6 October 2023, 07:53
Ludvík KružíkThe helicopter armament is ready for final assembly. I am now continuing the manufacture of the cockpits doors.
11 October 2023, 22:41
Ludvík KružíkYes, Villiers, work is continuing on the model. Time is pressing. I'd like to show off the finished model at a small non-competitive show my friend is hosting in early November. So I have three weeks to finish the model. So far it looks like I might be able to make it.
12 October 2023, 09:59
Ludvík KružíkI am gradually finishing and adding the last missing parts for the helicopter.
18 October 2023, 20:33
Ludvík KružíkI'm continuing work on the rotors. The rotors are not finished yet, but I was curious and took a picture of them mounted on the model. With the rotors on, the Hind already looks like a helicopter. 🙂
20 October 2023, 20:17
Ludvík KružíkLukas, thank you for your interest and admiration. I will soon add more photos of the continuation of the model building. 😉
20 October 2023, 21:12
Ludvík KružíkI'm continuing final work on the helicopter. The finish line is in sight. 🙂
23 October 2023, 23:07
Alec KI know I said "it's almost there" a month ago, so it's high time to repeat it… 😂😂😂. Looking great, of course 👍
26 October 2023, 12:15
Ludvík KružíkThanks Alec, you're much closer to the truth this time. It's only a short distance to the finish line.
27 October 2023, 22:02
RandoAmazing detail Ludvik. You continue to motivate me through my own Monogram build.
27 October 2023, 22:35
Ludvík KružíkRanda, I'm very flattered that you find motivation in following my modeling.
30 October 2023, 13:05
Ludvík KružíkVilliers, you are too lenient, but I am still very pleased with your words. 🙂
30 October 2023, 13:05
Ludvík KružíkWork on the model continues at a nice pace. Only a few minor details remain to be completed. The target is in sight. 🙂
30 October 2023, 19:21
Ludvík KružíkShar Dipree thank you, I try to make the result as good as possible.
30 October 2023, 21:41
Ludvík KružíkTonight I finished applying the stencil decals to the underside of the main rotor blades. The stencils are 130 in total, they are really tiny and their application requires good nerves and a lot of time. But the result is worth the effort.
I already know what not to look forward to when I build the next Hind. 😛
30 October 2023, 22:09
Ludvík KružíkToday I finished the last adjustments to the model and added the missing details. The model is finished.
As soon as I have time to take photos, I will add a new separate album with photos of the finished model.
1 November 2023, 22:38
RandoIt's one spectacular whirlybird, Ludvik, made all the better by everything we saw you add to it. I learned a lot about the Hind. My favorite part is probably the really bizarre asymmetric fuselage, which I had no idea about--makes this unique and distinctive helicopter all the more weird and cool. And the fact that you successfully modified the kit so it would accurately reflect this is so neat, definitely helped show me how much is possible in this hobby. I think I want to build a Hind someday! Excited to see the photoshoot
1 November 2023, 23:12
Jakub FialaVery nicely done, Ludvíku! Excellent detailling. Looking forward to see it on saturday.
2 November 2023, 08:57
Alec KRando said it all, I can only echo his words. A commendable effort indeed 👍
2 November 2023, 18:24
AlexanderSpeechless - that is all I can say. 😉
And that I am eagerly awaiting more pictures!
2 November 2023, 19:43
Shar DipreeHighend - congratulations on this phenomenally great result. 👍 👍 👍 👍 👍
2 November 2023, 20:06
Ludvík KružíkRando, I'm very flattered by your words. I'm really glad that you were inspired by my build and that I was able to expand your knowledge of this interesting helicopter.
And if you want to build a model of this helicopter, without all the heavy modifications and repairs, I recommend the Eduard or Zvezda kits (both kits contain the same plastic parts, Eduard has more accessories). It will save you a lot of work.
2 November 2023, 22:21
Ludvík KružíkMates, thank you all so much for your interest and popdoru in watching this build. I really appreciate it and look forward to seeing you again for some of my other projects.
2 November 2023, 22:26
TH SCALE MODELS (Thomas Haberl)Chapeau, Ludvik! I already told you that your are a little bit crazy, right? 😄 ... congratulations on consequently going your way on this build from the very first step to final stage! And the result is awesome!
3 November 2023, 10:04
Ludvík KružíkYes, Tomas, you already told me I was crazy 😄 And you weren't the only one who wondered why I was wasting my time with this old kit and its complicated modifications. Especially when there is a much better model from Eduard/Zvezda.
The reason for this build was pretty simple, I like to scratch out new parts and small details and modifying old kits is something I really enjoy. I don't claim to have perfect control of my builds, but it's enough for my needs and satisfaction.
I plan to build Eduard's Hind as well, so I'll be able to compare how much better this kit is. If I built the Eduard kit first, then I wouldn't want to get into modifying the Monogram kit.
3 November 2023, 12:07
TH SCALE MODELS (Thomas Haberl)It's never wasting time … modelling is all about the journey 😊 for sure there are mor detailed kits on the market, but they all don't give you what you added to this old one … 💪
4 November 2023, 12:01
Ludvík KružíkThomas, you've captured exactly why I love the "crazy" modelling I did with Hind. 😉
4 November 2023, 22:47
Ludvík KružíkYesterday (Saturday 4.11.2023) my Hind had its public premiere. I brought it to a non-competitive modelers meeting connected with a public model exhibition, which was organized by my friend.
I was pleased that some visitors to the event thought my model was built from a Zvezda kit. 🙂
5 November 2023, 08:55
CaptGPFWell done! I love the final result! The details definitely transformed this kit into a gem!
5 November 2023, 16:36
Ludvík KružíkCaptGPF thank you for your words of praise. I'm glad you like the model. 🙂
6 November 2023, 00:24
Ludvík KružíkAlbum with photos of the finished model is finished, you can find it here: Mi-24D Czech Air Force, 4011 Zipper - first design - Completed | Album by KLuK (1:48)
6 November 2023, 00:28
Album info
It's been a while since the Academy's Mig-21PF conversion and I've been longing for a similar "proper" conversion. I was rummaging through my stash and found this gem - a vintage Mi-24 quarter kit from Monogram. In the box I also discovered the accessories that I gradually bought after purchasing it. Two sets of Eduardo sheet metal, one for the interior and one for the exterior, a CMK resin conversion kit with the correct wings and other useful details, resin wheels, a rotary machine gun and pitot, and decals for machine #4011 Zipper Tiger.
According to the model database on Scalemates, the kit is from 1987. I have a slightly newer pack in a 2001 box. The kit corresponds to the time when it was made. The shortcomings and inaccuracies of this kit are well known and have been sufficiently described in many reviews. So I have a pretty clear idea what I'm getting into. I have a lot of cutting, extensive modification and fabrication of some parts ahead of me... just the way I like it... I'm looking forward to it. 🙂
