Fiat Mefistofele
Sprues and accessories checked.
The chassis and front suspension. All the components were painted using Tamiya X-1 Black Gloss. The center part on part 24B was painted in A.MIG-197 Metal Acrylic Color – Brass.
Note an error in the instructions: Step 5, the leave springs should be swopped 180° around. If not, the mistake will become apparent in step 8 when you try to join the front suspension to the chassis.
Heating the flat tip of a screw driver, the tips of part 18E and 19E was melted to form a mushroom after installing the tie rod, part 233E. Ensure free movement.
Note an error in the instructions: Step 5, the leave springs should be swopped 180° around. If not, the mistake will become apparent in step 8 when you try to join the front suspension to the chassis.
Heating the flat tip of a screw driver, the tips of part 18E and 19E was melted to form a mushroom after installing the tie rod, part 233E. Ensure free movement.
Awaiting the paint dry before painting the crank handle guide, part 24B with brass A.MIG-197 Metal Acrylic Color – Brass.
Note the specific order of assembling the shock absorbers in steps 6 and 7. Attaching the front suspension and steering box to the chassis.
All the components were painted using Tamiya X-1 Black Gloss.
All the components were painted using Tamiya X-1 Black Gloss.
A detailed view of the shock absorbers on the real vehicle. I picked out the top ends of the shock absorbers with Model Master Chrome Silver FS17178.
Showing off details on the frontend of the real vehicle.
Showing of the bottom of the front suspension to the chassis.
Showing of the top of the front suspension to the chassis.
Assembling the rear suspension (R). All the components were painted using Tamiya X-1 Black Gloss. I picked out the top ends of the shock absorbers with Model Master Chrome Silver FS17178.
The assembled back suspension (R) viewed from the outside.
The assembled back suspension (R) viewed from the inside.
Assembling the rear suspension (L). There is a mistake in the colour callout in step 15 and to a lesser account step 12. Looking at my reference photographs, I elected to paint all components Tamiya X-1 Gloss black. I picked out the top ends of the shock absorbers with Model Master Chrome Silver FS17178.
The assembled back suspension (L) viewed from the outside.
The assembled back suspension (L) viewed from the inside.
Attaching the gearshift, rear suspension (L and R) and differential components to the chassis. All the components were painted using Tamiya X-1 Black Gloss. Part 99F was left in chrome. The knob at the end of part 140E was painted in Metal Acrylic Color - Polished Metal A.MIG-192.
The assembled rear as seen from the front.
The assembled rear as seen from the back.
The assembled rear as seen from the left.
The assembled rear as seen from the right.
Assembling the instrument panel and attaching to the coachwork, decaling of the coachwork and attaching the subassembly to the chassis.
Reference photo showing the instrument panel.
Reference photo showing the instrument panel from another angle.
To capture the instrument panel best, I numbered the dials and allocated colours to it as dictated by thee reference photos. The backsides of all the dials were painted Tamiya X-1 Black gloss. The black speck seen on the instrument panel is part 133E. On the colour callout it is supposed to be painted E, Flat wood. My reference photos showed the switch to be black.
Following reference photos, detailed painting completed.
Decals placed.
As seen from behind.
The coachwork was fitted to the chassis. The coachwork was painted using Mr. COLOR, No 158 Super Italian Red. The inside of the coachwork was painted using Tamiya, TS-17 Gloss Aluminium. The decals laid down without problems. To make it conform to uneven surfaces Micro Sol And Micro Set was employed.
The coachwork was fitted to the chassis.
Floorboards, brake pedals and brake linkages, bottom panel and firewall.
Reference photo showing the competition record of the vehicle. This is captured with on a decal provided.
Reference photo showing the firewall showing and the pedals.
The completed firewall.
The firewall from a different angle.
Engine block, cylinder heads, pressure plate, valves and water pump.
Note that there is no callout for part 107G x 4, 108G and 110G, the parts were painted Flat Steel.
I ignored the colour callouts for the cylinder sleeves, the bottoms of the valve springs and water pump substituting flat-black for semi-gloss black.
Note that there is no callout for part 107G x 4, 108G and 110G, the parts were painted Flat Steel.
I ignored the colour callouts for the cylinder sleeves, the bottoms of the valve springs and water pump substituting flat-black for semi-gloss black.
Showing the complexity and colourful nature of the engine (R).
Showing the complexity and colourful nature of the engine (R).
Showing the complexity and colourful nature of the engine (L).
Showing the complexity and colourful nature of the engine (L).
The components on this page were organised in groups to better plan the painting of the components.
The components that were directed by the paint callout to be painted Flat Black were painted in Semi-Gloss Black. The rest of the parts were painted in the colours as directed.
The main components assembled. In the foreground is the “plumbing” for the oil pump.
The plumbing installed. It is better to install the piping piece by piece, starting from the top. The final “tube” leading to the oil tank beneath the cabin’s floor board will be installed once the engine has been installed.
Ignition wiring, carburettors, fuel lines and accelerator linkages.
A good reference photograph showing off the fuel lines and plug wiring as well as detailed colours.
Again, I cleaned the parts before committing the parts to a blank piece of paper to assist in simplifying the painting process of the multitude of parts.
After looking at reference photographs, I deviated from the instructions by replacing the “C” type transparent Ø0.7mm tube with the “E” type black Ø0.7mm tube and replacing the type “D” type yellow electric wire Ø0.7mm with Tamiya Detail-Up Parts Series 12676 Cable, Ø0.65mm outer diameter (black). This gives a more realistic look. 24 Parts were made up.
The same went for the wiring from leading from the distributer caps (109G x 4).
The same went for the wiring from leading from the distributer caps (109G x 4).
To accurately determine the exact lengths of the pipe, Ǿ5mm black PVC tube connecting part (70H, 72H and 71H, 73H) to first glue the assemblies onto the cylinder sleeves. I found that the interconnecting pipe should be closer to 6mm than the 5mm demanded by the instructions.
Connecting part 67H, the pipe was straight forward. Where the part is glued to the engine block need some manoeuvring. The decals laid down well and have very little carrier film. I used Micro Sol and Set after which it was sealed in with clear gloss.
Connecting part 67H, the pipe was straight forward. Where the part is glued to the engine block need some manoeuvring. The decals laid down well and have very little carrier film. I used Micro Sol and Set after which it was sealed in with clear gloss.
Looking at reference photograph, the fuel lines dangling down vertically was shortened from 18mm as is seen on the lefthand side and also directed in the instructions to 12mm as is seen on the righthand side.
The decals laid down well and have very little carrier film. I used Micro Sol and Set after which it was sealed in with clear gloss.
The decals laid down well and have very little carrier film. I used Micro Sol and Set after which it was sealed in with clear gloss.
Using reference photographs, I picked out details on part 88H x 4 using Ammo by Mig A.MIG-0192 Polished Metal and Tamiya X10 Gunmetal.
Installing the engine.
In step 39, following reference photographs, part 66H and part 69H x 6 is painted Tamiya X-18 Semi-Gloss Black and not Metal Gloss Brass as directed in the instructions.
Very little carrier film on the decals. I shortened the decals by approximately 6mm to fit the Ø3mm grey pipe x 8. The decals laid down well and have very little carrier film. I used Micro Sol and Set after which it was sealed in with clear gloss.
In step 39, following reference photographs, part 66H and part 69H x 6 is painted Tamiya X-18 Semi-Gloss Black and not Metal Gloss Brass as directed in the instructions.
Very little carrier film on the decals. I shortened the decals by approximately 6mm to fit the Ø3mm grey pipe x 8. The decals laid down well and have very little carrier film. I used Micro Sol and Set after which it was sealed in with clear gloss.
Showing off the desired outcome in step 39.
The sub-assembly prior to installing.
Installed.
Installed
Engine installed in the chassis.
The instructions are not very clear how and where this clutch link pass through the firewall and attach to the clutch pedal and gearbox housing.
A closer view where the tube attached to the instrument panel, passing through the firewall, passing towards the front end of the engine.
The same pipe inserted in the engine.
A closer look at the tubes, wire and spring attaching the engine to the vehicle.
A look from the other side.
Assembling, painting and installing the radiator. Painting the underbody panels.
Showing off one of the radiator hoses in detail.
Showing off the radiator hose on the opposite side.
Showing off relief of the “FIAT” logo as well as the positioning of the overflow tube on the radiator.
In general, the painting instructions were followed. The places where the hoses connected however were painted in a copper colour as suggested by the reference photographs. Inspired by the reference photograph, I dry brushed the protruding “FIAT” monogram. The supplied stencil was used to spray painted the “FIAT” logo.
Looking at the reference picture, the overflow pipe of the radiator is relayed.
The radiator pipe seen connected from the righthand side.
The radiator pipe seen connected from the lefthand side.
The underbody panels painted as instructed using Mr. COLOR, No 158 Super Italian Red.
Install linkages, steering seat and windscreen.
Part 47C came without an attachment point to part 142E which I fabricated.
Part 47C came without an attachment point to part 142E which I fabricated.
Subassemblies painted, in Tamiya X-1 Black Gloss and ready to install..
Step 52: Cut part 14B as indicated.
Part 47 required fabricating a nub that fits into part 142E.
Step 52: Cut part 14B as indicated.
Part 47 required fabricating a nub that fits into part 142E.
The outside rim of the steering wheel, part 89F was painted in Tamiya X-1 Black Gloss, the spokes in Ammo by Mig A.MIG-0192 Polished Metal, with the nut in A.MIG-197 Metal Acrylic Color – Brass.
Another view showing off the front end.
Showing of where part 29C was installed.
The cockpit showing of the steering wheel and seat, part 122E painted in Semi-Gloss Black. The windscreen part 93F and 93A was also installed.
Showing of where part 28C, the steering arm part 14B, steering column was installed.
Showing off the hand throttle part 117G and 142E.
Assembly of the manifold, exhaust, bonnet panels and bonnet straps.
I snipped off the location tabs on the manifold, 125E to ensure a better fit with 127E.
I snipped off the location tabs on the manifold, 125E to ensure a better fit with 127E.
The manifold, part 125E and 127E was painted in Mr. Surfacer and the tailpipe, part 121E and 144E in in Semi-Gloss Black to match the reference photographs.
Test fitting the exhaust assembly, a noticeable gap was noticed which requires strengthening before being wrapped in the rope supplied.
Two-part epoxy was used to glue the rope to the exhaust pipe assembly.
The two parts of the engine bonnet, 301M and 302M was painted using Mr. COLOR, No 158 Super Italian Red. Large parts of access plastic were removed that supported the part’s structure before the parts are installed. The best way to remove the plastic is by using a scalpel and by making repeated light passes until eventually the plastic comes free.
The bonnet straps were made up using the canvas material supplied and the clasps 112G x 4, 97F x 2 and 98F was painted Ammo by Mig A.MIG-0192 Polished Metal. The straps were made up according to the measurements given. Instead of sewing the folded back canvas straps, I used glue to keep it all together.
The two parts of the engine bonnet, 301M and 302M was painted using Mr. COLOR, No 158 Super Italian Red. Large parts of access plastic were removed that supported the part’s structure before the parts are installed. The best way to remove the plastic is by using a scalpel and by making repeated light passes until eventually the plastic comes free.
The bonnet straps were made up using the canvas material supplied and the clasps 112G x 4, 97F x 2 and 98F was painted Ammo by Mig A.MIG-0192 Polished Metal. The straps were made up according to the measurements given. Instead of sewing the folded back canvas straps, I used glue to keep it all together.
Installing the exhaust, attaching the grab handles on the engine bonnet, install the bonnet parts using the rods provided, and brake line.
The bonnet grab handles, part 111G x 4 was painted in Ammo by Mig A.MIG-0192 Polished Metal.
I shortened the brake line between part 30C and 102F from 87mm to 73mm to make it more realistic.
Part 102F was very brittle and broke. This part was replaced with a scratch build version.
Building up the “sandwiches” for the drive chains.
The bonnet grab handles, part 111G x 4 was painted in Ammo by Mig A.MIG-0192 Polished Metal.
I shortened the brake line between part 30C and 102F from 87mm to 73mm to make it more realistic.
Part 102F was very brittle and broke. This part was replaced with a scratch build version.
Building up the “sandwiches” for the drive chains.
A view from above.
A view from the side.
The brake lane installed after being shortened to 73mm.
Assembling the drive chain x 2 and wheels.
All those welding points as well as cleaning up points led me in assembling the drive chains led me to explore alternatives. The closest that I could find was Tamiya’s Assembly Chain Set for 1/6 Scale Motorcycle, part number 12674.
Final assembly of sprockets, drive chains, wheels, brake lines, wheels, bonnet straps and crank handle.
Komentáře
109 17 May 2023, 20:29
Steve DesarzensThis project is huge ! Love it 🤩
I also have the kit and the idea to build it one day. Didn't look for reference photos yet. Do you already have some ?
18 May 2023, 06:37
Villiers de VosJennifer, Robert, Steve and Ard: Welcome aboard.
Steve, there are plenty of photographs and videos available online.
25 May 2023, 18:09
Villiers de VosThe first phase's assembly is straight forward. The only portion that I did not enjoy was using a hot blade to melt the components of thee front suspension together. There is not a lot of plastic to melt. I plan to use a soldering iron on the drive chain.
25 May 2023, 18:12
Jennifer FranklinLots of good progress, curious to see how the instrument panel works out.
31 May 2023, 08:50
Mr JamesNice progress pics. Is that actual brass on the chassis or very good painting?
31 May 2023, 18:10
Villiers de VosJennifer, your wish is my command. The Micro Kristal Klear securing the bezels is still drying, but I am happy with the outcome.
James, painting only. First airbrush (I had to paint engine parts as well). I then cut the painting fine by hand. Thank you for the compliment.
Bughunter, you are welcome.
1 June 2023, 15:27
Villiers de VosI am still following the instructions/assembly sequence. No major issues so far.
1 June 2023, 20:30
Villiers de VosThank you Ard and Bruce.
I have started on the engine. Except for drive chains the engine seems to be the focal point in as far complexity and colour. This is not a "shake and bake" kit, but I have enjoyed it very much so far. Fortunately there are a lot of reference photographs available online.
10 June 2023, 16:59
bughunterIncredible what kind of details are possible in this scale 👍 And you know I love details!
10 June 2023, 17:29
Kyle DeHartDiving into another one of these? I've missed it somehow up until now. Can't wait to see it get finished up. That engine is a work of art. It's all looking great.
11 June 2023, 05:26
Bavel CatWow! A huge model. It seems that it will need a garage for storage 😀
A very interesting project 👍
15 June 2023, 17:56
Jean-Daniel AebischerSuperbe travail Villiers, pour moi qui suis mécanicien c'est un vrai régal. Bonne continuation 👍👏
17 June 2023, 09:53
Villiers de VosThank you my fellow Scale mates for your kind words. Believe me when I say that it is humbling.
I am nearly finished with the wiring of the engine (a real mojo killer), the carburettors and fuel and oil lines.
Photographs of my adventures on page 15 of the instructions will be published soon.
1 August 2023, 12:50
Richard BerrieOutstanding work Villers. Really love the subject and the reference photos. Your attention to detail is inspiring. Awesome work!
1 August 2023, 15:55
Villiers de VosRichard and Hanno, Thank you for your kind words.
The wiring of the engine has been completed. Fortunately there are many reference photographs available.
24 August 2023, 14:51
Bruce HuxtableI will be shocked if that engine doesn't run, by the time you have added the fuel lines, etc! Very smart and pristine work 👍
24 August 2023, 15:10
Villiers de VosBruce, Michael, Pietro, Kyle and George, thank you for your kind words.
At long last some progress. The wiring of the engine was difficult, but adds a lot of realism. The next steps are straight forward up to assembling the drive chains.
26 August 2023, 17:45
Kyle DeHartAh man. It really looks awesome sitting down in the car. Fantastic work.
26 August 2023, 18:01
Jennifer FranklinI've been out of the loop, so I'm a little late to comment, but I have to say that the engine is magnificent!
27 August 2023, 18:53
Villiers de VosKyle, Jennifer, Guy and Mick, thank you for your kind words.
Progress should be quicker until the drive chains are reached.
7 September 2023, 10:41
Kyle DeHartIt's been an outstanding build to follow along with. Should I ever acquire this kit I'll certainly be returning here for reference
7 September 2023, 21:02
Villiers de VosKyle and JD, thank you for your kind comments.
Work inside the engine compartment is nearing completion.
16 September 2023, 07:00
Villiers de VosWell summarized Rui!
Kyle, thank you for your kind words.
Slow progress continues.
1 October 2023, 21:14
Villiers de VosGentlemen, thank you for your kind comments.
The end of the build is in sight.
All those welding points as well as cleaning up points led me in assembling the drive chains led me to explore alternatives. The closest that I could find was Tamiya's Assembly Chain Set for 1/6 Scale Motorcycle, part number 12674.
22 October 2023, 06:12
Villiers de VosI am calling this one completed. In general this is a very detailed model.
Thank you to everyone that stopped by, liked and your fantastic comments.
23 October 2023, 17:30
Tom ...Wow, Villiers. That is outstanding work! And a lot of it! Well done. One day I will do this kit and I'll use your build as reference!
23 October 2023, 23:23
Kyle DeHartI agree with Tom. An incredible build and an incredibly excellent build log. Thank you for sharing the entire process. I have designs on building this one day as well and will surely return here to make my own build go more smoothly.
23 October 2023, 23:39
Album info
The parts are well packed.
Pre-coloured sprues. The four colours are black, red, grey, steel, copper and silver chrome.
Can be built in sub-units, Chassis/coachwork, Engine, Bits and bobs.
Because of the kit's multi-media nature, I would recommend it for experienced builders.
Not a shake and bake kit. Every single part needed cleaning up.
Double check the drawings in the instructions for where you should cut parts off and before committing to glue. Dry fit before you commit to glue.
Do not be intimidated by the complexity. Study each stage in detail and you will gradually be able to build up each sub-assembly. I followed the construction sequence as indicated in the instruction manual.
Some of the subassemblies (the shock absorbers in particular) is made up from parts that appears to be similar, but are not. I used a storage case with compartments to keep the parts organized.
Few errors on the instructions:
Step 5: The leave springs should be changed 180° and swopped around. If not, the mistake will become apparent in step 6 when you try to join the front suspension to the chassis.
Step 22: Part 133F should read part 133E. On the colour callout it is supposed to be painted E, Flat wood. My reference photos showed the switch to be black.
Step 22: The type "C" tube (Ø0.7mm transparent) which attach to part 58C has been swopped out for the type "D" tube (Ø0.6mm black).
Step 30 and 33: There is no callout for part 107G x 4, 108G and 110G, the parts were painted Flat Steel identified on the colour chart as "D".
Step 35: Looking at the reference pictures, the plug wires seem to be black and not yellow. I substituted the kit supplied wire and tubes with Tamiya Detail-Up parts cable Ø0.65mm and the type "D" tube with Ø0.6mm black tube for connectors.
Step 39: Looking at refence pictures, part 66H and part 69H x 6 should be painted Semi-Gloss Black rather than Brass. Part 77H should be painted Copper rather than Metal Gloss Brass.
Step 44: Part 65H and 68H should be painted "L" copper and not "B" Brass. Part 139E should be painted Semi-Gloss Black rather than Flat Black.
Step 59: Shorten the brake line between part 30C and 102F from 87mm to 73mm to make it more realistic.
Step 63: Shorten the brake line between part 102F and 102F from 87mm to 73mm to make it more realistic.
Positive
Following the instructions, the complexity of tasks gradually increase.
Minimal flash on very few parts. There are though large sprue gates.
Good building reports on ScaleMates.
Lots of reference photos and videos available online.
Parts clearly marked.
The packaging of the sprue trees, body panels are very good and prevent damage.
The screws, pipes, wires, springs, etc came in a very nice compartmentalised container clearly marked and is a nice touch.
No serious fit issues.
The nuts and bolts allow for adjustments with regards to parts.
This model offers a balance for modellers to satisfy the builders and painters.
Negative
Very thick and long sprue gates (up to 50mm) and access plastic on body panels. It resembles pour stubs. Use a scalpel to repeatedly scours the line between the access plastic and the part.
Every part need work, cleaning up seamlines, ejection marks.
Not enough material provided (tubing and copper wire) to fulfil tasks. I bought Tamiya upgrade material.
Installing the oil and fuel pipes on the engine are not clear from the instructions. Fortunately, there are many reference photographs available online.
The ignition wiring and drive chains.
