Fiat 806 Grand Prix 1927
Sprues checked and marked.
All the parts isolated required to build up the chassis. All parts have been cleaned up, sink marks filled, chrome stripped and all colours painted.
After filling the sink marks the parts were primed using Mr. Surfacer 1000 (White).
All the parts came in black plastic, but was painted up using Humbrol 21 Gloss Black.
Build up sub-assemblies A and B.
Incorporate the sub-assemblies A and B in the chassis.
Using a nut provided, nut 02, thread with caution the indicated pieces 9B, 10B.
All the parts came in black plastic, but was painted up using Humbrol 21 Gloss Black.
Build up sub-assemblies A and B.
Incorporate the sub-assemblies A and B in the chassis.
Using a nut provided, nut 02, thread with caution the indicated pieces 9B, 10B.
The instructions are not clear here, but before assembling the chassis’ frame, I tied the copper wire through the holes as instructed. I used a toothpick as a spacer.
The reverse side where I twisted the wire.
The parts. I ended up twisting off the end of part 10B when trying to thread the end.
After assembling Part 5A to 8A and 6A to 7A, the mated surfaces were levelled using a file. There were very noticeable steps.
After filling the sink marks, the parts were primed using Mr. Surfacer 1000 (White).
All the parts came in black plastic, but was painted up using Humbrol 21 Gloss Black.
The floor pan 1G was primed with Mr Surfacer 1000 (White), painted red Mr. Color 327 Red FG111G6, wet sanded with 1500 grit. When I was satisfied, I painted the panels with Tamiya X-27 Clear Red. Again, I wet sanded the coats until I was happy with the finish. The part was finally sealed in with Humbrol Clear Gloss Varnish. Finally, the part was polished up using Tamiya’s three-part Polishing Compound.
After filling the sink marks, the parts were primed using Mr. Surfacer 1000 (White).
All the parts came in black plastic, but was painted up using Humbrol 21 Gloss Black.
The floor pan 1G was primed with Mr Surfacer 1000 (White), painted red Mr. Color 327 Red FG111G6, wet sanded with 1500 grit. When I was satisfied, I painted the panels with Tamiya X-27 Clear Red. Again, I wet sanded the coats until I was happy with the finish. The part was finally sealed in with Humbrol Clear Gloss Varnish. Finally, the part was polished up using Tamiya’s three-part Polishing Compound.
Primed 1PE with Tamiya Metal Primer and painted with Tamiya XF-57 Buff. When dry used oils to create a woodgrain. After drying sealed in with Humbrol Clear Gloss Varnish.
I stripped the chrome paint off 18E, filled the ejection pin marks with Mr. Surfacer 500. When dry painted the part gloss black with Humbrol 21 Black. The entire part was then covered using Tamiya TS-17 Gloss Alluminum.
I stripped the chrome paint off 33E and painted the part gloss black with Humbrol 21 Black. Unsightly ejection marks on the floor (18e). Filled with Mr. Surfacer 500 and then sanded. The entire part was then covered using Tamiya TS-17 Gloss Alluminum.
Paint 53E, 106D, and the cap of 33E AMMO MIG A.MIG-0190 Old Brass.
Cut 2 x 4mm pieces of the pipe marked as the A type Ø 4.2mm and slip the two pieces onto 33E. Cut and secure with 4 x 30mm brass wire. Secure each pipe with two pieces brass wire marked as the E type Ø 0.5mm. The twisted ends are turned inwards.
I stripped the chrome paint off 18E, filled the ejection pin marks with Mr. Surfacer 500. When dry painted the part gloss black with Humbrol 21 Black. The entire part was then covered using Tamiya TS-17 Gloss Alluminum.
I stripped the chrome paint off 33E and painted the part gloss black with Humbrol 21 Black. Unsightly ejection marks on the floor (18e). Filled with Mr. Surfacer 500 and then sanded. The entire part was then covered using Tamiya TS-17 Gloss Alluminum.
Paint 53E, 106D, and the cap of 33E AMMO MIG A.MIG-0190 Old Brass.
Cut 2 x 4mm pieces of the pipe marked as the A type Ø 4.2mm and slip the two pieces onto 33E. Cut and secure with 4 x 30mm brass wire. Secure each pipe with two pieces brass wire marked as the E type Ø 0.5mm. The twisted ends are turned inwards.
The sink marks are less visible.
Clean up the leaf spring hangers, part 34B x 4, belly plate part 3A and stabilisers, part 108D and 109D and paint with Humbrol 21 Black.
Care should be taken to ensure the screw securing the floor, part 18E to the floor pan, part 1G actually enter in the designated hole.
Part 3A, 108D and 109D finally secure and draw together the two chassis members Part 1A and 2A.
Care should be taken to ensure the screw securing the floor, part 18E to the floor pan, part 1G actually enter in the designated hole.
Part 3A, 108D and 109D finally secure and draw together the two chassis members Part 1A and 2A.
Parts 25B, 35B were glued together. There are no locating tabs. The seamline was filed level. The same for part 6B and 24B. Caution, the attachment for piping on back axle very flimsy. Thread the ends of part 24B using with caution as indicated using a nut, part 04.
The parts making up the shock absorbers, part 1F x 8, part 128D were cleaned up for painting.
On the leaf springs, part 20B, 21B x 2 and 23B were cleaned up for painting.
All the aforementioned parts were all painted with Humbrol 21 Black.
The leaf springs, part 2F x 2 and the stars part 129D x 2 was painted with Model Master 1790 Chrome Silver FS17178 and sealed in when dry with Model Master 1409 Sealer for Metalizer.
I suggest that the leaf springs are attached first followed by the shock absorbers.
The parts making up the shock absorbers, part 1F x 8, part 128D were cleaned up for painting.
On the leaf springs, part 20B, 21B x 2 and 23B were cleaned up for painting.
All the aforementioned parts were all painted with Humbrol 21 Black.
The leaf springs, part 2F x 2 and the stars part 129D x 2 was painted with Model Master 1790 Chrome Silver FS17178 and sealed in when dry with Model Master 1409 Sealer for Metalizer.
I suggest that the leaf springs are attached first followed by the shock absorbers.
Attaching the axel assembly to the chassis is straightforward. I started from the front on the leaf spring, both sides, followed by the shock absorbers with rubber bushing sandwiched between the two leaves and finally the back part of the leaf springs.
The nuts and bolts allow for adjusting the assembly.
Part 10B which was damaged when I threaded the end can now, after being adjusted repaired by attaching the nut with epoxy.
The rubber sheath part 3K is press fit to part 25B.
The nuts and bolts allow for adjusting the assembly.
Part 10B which was damaged when I threaded the end can now, after being adjusted repaired by attaching the nut with epoxy.
The rubber sheath part 3K is press fit to part 25B.
Five parts makes up each rim. From the inside out part 311P, 312P, the hub 310P, 309P and 308P. Clean the five parts of and clean them up and with paint each part with Humbrol 21 Black.
The moulded lettering was removed easily with 400 grit sandpaper. Also clean up the inside of the tire where it will touch the rim with 400 grit sandpaper.
Building up the rims, I fed through the centre of part 311, the two inner holes, the two longer screws as required. The rest of the parts fed onto the two screws. Finally, the outside rim was secured with four smaller screws.
After each rim has been checked, the tires are mounted.
In an effort to lay down the decal symmetrical (four decals per tire do not make it easy), I stared at 12 o’clock and laid down “Cord”, followed laying down “Pirelli” at 6 o’clock and so forth. The decals laid down perfectly. I painted the outside wall on which the decals were placed with Micro-Sol. Finally, the decals itself was painted with Tamiya XF-86 Flat Clear to tone down the sheen of the decals itself.
There is very little carrier film on the decals.
The moulded lettering was removed easily with 400 grit sandpaper. Also clean up the inside of the tire where it will touch the rim with 400 grit sandpaper.
Building up the rims, I fed through the centre of part 311, the two inner holes, the two longer screws as required. The rest of the parts fed onto the two screws. Finally, the outside rim was secured with four smaller screws.
After each rim has been checked, the tires are mounted.
In an effort to lay down the decal symmetrical (four decals per tire do not make it easy), I stared at 12 o’clock and laid down “Cord”, followed laying down “Pirelli” at 6 o’clock and so forth. The decals laid down perfectly. I painted the outside wall on which the decals were placed with Micro-Sol. Finally, the decals itself was painted with Tamiya XF-86 Flat Clear to tone down the sheen of the decals itself.
There is very little carrier film on the decals.
On the left tire is the mouldings that the builder is instructed to remove. The tires on the right shows the completed work.
Part 130D and 131D were cleaned up and painted with Humbrol 21 Gloss Black.
I used the provided paint mask and applied Tamiya X-2 White on part 30D. Because of the nature of part 30D (it is a grill) repair work on the number can easily be done using a toothpick.
Press part 132D and 133D together and sand the joints to get a half decent fit. I painted the outside of the radiator with Ammo Metal Acrylic Color A MIG-0197 Brass and sealed in when dry with Model Master 1409 Sealer for Metalizer.
After triple checking the orientation of part 130D and 131D it was glued into first part 133D and then 132D. Ensure that part 131D is orientated the right way round correct because a hose from the engine will be attached later on at the left-hand bottom corner. There is a very prominent seam between Part 132D and 133D that need attention.
The whole assembly was sealed in with Humbrol Clear Gloss Varnish and left to dry.
I used the provided paint mask and applied Tamiya X-2 White on part 30D. Because of the nature of part 30D (it is a grill) repair work on the number can easily be done using a toothpick.
Press part 132D and 133D together and sand the joints to get a half decent fit. I painted the outside of the radiator with Ammo Metal Acrylic Color A MIG-0197 Brass and sealed in when dry with Model Master 1409 Sealer for Metalizer.
After triple checking the orientation of part 130D and 131D it was glued into first part 133D and then 132D. Ensure that part 131D is orientated the right way round correct because a hose from the engine will be attached later on at the left-hand bottom corner. There is a very prominent seam between Part 132D and 133D that need attention.
The whole assembly was sealed in with Humbrol Clear Gloss Varnish and left to dry.
Remove the parts indicated and after cleaning up were painted with Humbrol 21 Gloss Black.
Assembling the shockabsorber assemblies. Care should be taken that it is assembled in such a way as to the opening through which the brake lines will be fed is pointing to the rear.
I suggest to first slip the shockabsorber assemblies over the axel before securing part 1B and 2B.
The assembly secuence were followed as suggested in the instruction booklet. The drawings were constantly consulted. Double check the inclination/angle required of part 1B and 2B.
Assembling the shockabsorber assemblies. Care should be taken that it is assembled in such a way as to the opening through which the brake lines will be fed is pointing to the rear.
I suggest to first slip the shockabsorber assemblies over the axel before securing part 1B and 2B.
The assembly secuence were followed as suggested in the instruction booklet. The drawings were constantly consulted. Double check the inclination/angle required of part 1B and 2B.
The radiator housing, 7G was primed with Mr Surfacer 1000 (White), painted red Mr. Color 327 Red FG111G6, wet sanded with 1500 grit. When I was satisfied, I painted the panels with Tamiya X-27 Clear Red. Again, I wet sanded the coats until I was happy with the finish. The part was sealed in with Humbrol Clear Gloss Varnish. Finally, the part was polished up using Tamiya’s three-part Polishing Compound.
The radiator assembled in step 20 are secured inside part 7G as shown. First threat the four attachment points before inserting and securing the radiator.
Take part 31E and paint the outside frame inside and out with Model Master 1790 Chrome Silver FS17178 and sealed in when dry with Model Master 1409 Sealer for Metalizer. Leave to dry and paint the grill with Humbrol 21 Gloss Black. Leave to dry and secure on the front part of the radiator and inside 7G as instructed. 31E press fit into 7G.
Secure the whole assembly to the chassis.
The radiator assembled in step 20 are secured inside part 7G as shown. First threat the four attachment points before inserting and securing the radiator.
Take part 31E and paint the outside frame inside and out with Model Master 1790 Chrome Silver FS17178 and sealed in when dry with Model Master 1409 Sealer for Metalizer. Leave to dry and paint the grill with Humbrol 21 Gloss Black. Leave to dry and secure on the front part of the radiator and inside 7G as instructed. 31E press fit into 7G.
Secure the whole assembly to the chassis.
Take the leave springs, part 3F x 2 and paint with Model Master 1790 Chrome Silver FS17178 and sealed in when dry with Model Master 1409 Sealer for Metalizer. Leave to dry.
The smaller parts required to secure the leave springs, part 32B, 33B, 137D x 2, 136D x 2 were cleaned up and painted with Humbrol 21 Gloss Black. Leave to dry.
First secure the leave springs. Make sure the part 32B and 33B is orientated as shown. Finally secure the suspension that were completed in step 21.
The rubber bushes, 6K were inserted first and therewith allowed the shock absorbers to be attached working from the front left and right working towards to back.
The smaller parts required to secure the leave springs, part 32B, 33B, 137D x 2, 136D x 2 were cleaned up and painted with Humbrol 21 Gloss Black. Leave to dry.
First secure the leave springs. Make sure the part 32B and 33B is orientated as shown. Finally secure the suspension that were completed in step 21.
The rubber bushes, 6K were inserted first and therewith allowed the shock absorbers to be attached working from the front left and right working towards to back.
The location pins assembling the fuel tank, part 20E and 21E were slightly off line. I suggest cutting the pins off for better alignment. The seamline between the two halves needed attention. Because the location tabs were slightly offline, the location hole for the cap of the fuel tank needed work to file into a round shape. The assembly was painted with Tamiya TS-17 Gloss Aluminium and left to dry.
The brake linkage, part 138D x 2 and brake drums, part 139D x 2 were painted with Humbrol 21 Gloss Black and leave to dry.
Cut two 130mm lengths of part Spring 33 and attach as indicated to the dish side of part 139D x 2. Set aside. In retrospect, I would suggest that this cables are extended from 130mm to 150mm which will be astatically more pleasing.
Cut two 62mm lengths of part Spring 33 and attach as indicated to the dish side of part 138D x 2. Set aside.
Attach the fuel line, transparent PVC pipe Ø1.5mm to the fuel tank. Set aside.
The brake linkage, part 138D x 2 and brake drums, part 139D x 2 were painted with Humbrol 21 Gloss Black and leave to dry.
Cut two 130mm lengths of part Spring 33 and attach as indicated to the dish side of part 139D x 2. Set aside. In retrospect, I would suggest that this cables are extended from 130mm to 150mm which will be astatically more pleasing.
Cut two 62mm lengths of part Spring 33 and attach as indicated to the dish side of part 138D x 2. Set aside.
Attach the fuel line, transparent PVC pipe Ø1.5mm to the fuel tank. Set aside.
Clean up the parts where the brake lines will be attached, part 141D and 142D. Paint he parts with Humbrol 21 Gloss Black and leave to dry. Clean up the adjustment hand adjustment screws part 143D x 4 and paint with Model Master 1790 Chrome Silver FS17178 and sealed in when dry with Model Master 1409 Sealer for Metalizer. Leave to dry. Assemble as indicated.
Clean up the handbrake, part 29B and paint with Model Master 1790 Chrome Silver FS17178 and sealed in when dry with Model Master 1409 Sealer for Metalizer. Leave to dry. Assemble as indicated. Paint the handgrip on the handbrake with Tamiya XF-85 Rubber Black.
Complete the brake line assemblies by attaching the sub-assemblies made in step 25 and attach it to part 141D and 142D. Attach the brake linkage, part 138D x 2 to the back axel. Insert the handbrake, part 29B and make sure that the teeth intermesh with the teeth on part 141D. The brake cables coming from the front towards where the handbrake is located must first be fed through the wire loops that were made in step 1.
Clean the tie rod, part 17B up and paint with Model Master 1790 Chrome Silver FS17178 and sealed in when dry with Model Master 1409 Sealer for Metalizer. Leave to dry. Attach as indicated.
Take the fuel tank which was assembled in step 24 and feed the PVC pipe underneath the floor towards the engine bay. Secure the fuel tank as shown in the instruction booklet.
The engine bonnet’s side panels, 2G and 3G was primed with Mr Surfacer 1000 (White), painted red Mr. Color 327 Red FG111G6, wet sanded with 1500 grit. When I was satisfied, I painted the panels with Tamiya X-27 Clear Red. Again, I wet sanded the coats until I was happy with the finish. The parts were sealed in with Humbrol Clear Gloss Varnish. Finally, the parts were polished up using Tamiya’s three-part Polishing Compound. Press fit these panels as indicated.
Clean up the handbrake, part 29B and paint with Model Master 1790 Chrome Silver FS17178 and sealed in when dry with Model Master 1409 Sealer for Metalizer. Leave to dry. Assemble as indicated. Paint the handgrip on the handbrake with Tamiya XF-85 Rubber Black.
Complete the brake line assemblies by attaching the sub-assemblies made in step 25 and attach it to part 141D and 142D. Attach the brake linkage, part 138D x 2 to the back axel. Insert the handbrake, part 29B and make sure that the teeth intermesh with the teeth on part 141D. The brake cables coming from the front towards where the handbrake is located must first be fed through the wire loops that were made in step 1.
Clean the tie rod, part 17B up and paint with Model Master 1790 Chrome Silver FS17178 and sealed in when dry with Model Master 1409 Sealer for Metalizer. Leave to dry. Attach as indicated.
Take the fuel tank which was assembled in step 24 and feed the PVC pipe underneath the floor towards the engine bay. Secure the fuel tank as shown in the instruction booklet.
The engine bonnet’s side panels, 2G and 3G was primed with Mr Surfacer 1000 (White), painted red Mr. Color 327 Red FG111G6, wet sanded with 1500 grit. When I was satisfied, I painted the panels with Tamiya X-27 Clear Red. Again, I wet sanded the coats until I was happy with the finish. The parts were sealed in with Humbrol Clear Gloss Varnish. Finally, the parts were polished up using Tamiya’s three-part Polishing Compound. Press fit these panels as indicated.
Attaching the front wheels is straight forward.
The dashboard, Part 19E was stripped and part 4PE, 5PE and 6PE were inserted in their dedicated locations and secured with epoxy. The PE parts were primed with Tamiya Metal Primer. The whole dashboard was painted with Tamiya TS-17 Gloss Aluminium and left to dry. When dry the cases of each guage was painted with Model Master 1790 Chrome Silver FS17178 and sealed in when dry with Model Master 1409 Sealer for Metalizer. Leave to dry. Install the wiring using 3 x Ø1.5mm of different lengths as instructed.
The steering linkage part 16B and 28B and the crank handle part 19B were cleaned up and paint with Model Master 1790 Chrome Silver FS17178 and sealed in when dry with Model Master 1409 Sealer for Metalizer. Leave to dry.
Take the crank handle and carefully slip over a 8mm lengths of Ø3mm grey PVC pipe as shown in the instructions.
Carefully store all the subassemblies for later instillation.
Attaching the back wheels is straight forward.
The steering linkage part 16B and 28B and the crank handle part 19B were cleaned up and paint with Model Master 1790 Chrome Silver FS17178 and sealed in when dry with Model Master 1409 Sealer for Metalizer. Leave to dry.
Take the crank handle and carefully slip over a 8mm lengths of Ø3mm grey PVC pipe as shown in the instructions.
Carefully store all the subassemblies for later instillation.
Attaching the back wheels is straight forward.
All the parts isolated required to build up the engine. All parts have been cleaned up, sink marks filled, chrome stripped and all colours painted.
Construction is straight forward. Because a single colour will be sprayed and good adhesion is required, a large subassembly was assembled. The gearbox 75C, 76C, 77C, 78C, 79C and 80C was assembled. And then attached to the engine block 72C, 73C and 81C. I also added 98C, 99C and 102C from step 10.
The cooling fins on the engine sump, 81C and gearbox 80C were marred with ejection marks and ejection stubs and needed to be cleaned up using a razor saw. A dab of liquid cement was used to clean it up.
I did nothing to address the sink marks on 98C and 99C because it will not be seen as soon as the cylinder heads have been installed.
Seamlines and ejection pin marks were addressed with Mr. Surfacer 500 and then sanded.
The main parts were painted in Ammo Metal Acrylic Color A.MIG-192 - Polished Metal.
The gear-lever, part 71E was painted with Model Master 1790 Chrome Silver FS17178 and sealed in when dry with Model Master 1409 Sealer for Metalizer. The gear knob, part 110D was painted gloss black and the leather ball on the gear-leaver was picked out in Tamiya XF-64 Red Brown. After drying the gear-lever was inserted and secure with a 10mm spring as instructed.
The cooling fins on the engine sump, 81C and gearbox 80C were marred with ejection marks and ejection stubs and needed to be cleaned up using a razor saw. A dab of liquid cement was used to clean it up.
I did nothing to address the sink marks on 98C and 99C because it will not be seen as soon as the cylinder heads have been installed.
Seamlines and ejection pin marks were addressed with Mr. Surfacer 500 and then sanded.
The main parts were painted in Ammo Metal Acrylic Color A.MIG-192 - Polished Metal.
The gear-lever, part 71E was painted with Model Master 1790 Chrome Silver FS17178 and sealed in when dry with Model Master 1409 Sealer for Metalizer. The gear knob, part 110D was painted gloss black and the leather ball on the gear-leaver was picked out in Tamiya XF-64 Red Brown. After drying the gear-lever was inserted and secure with a 10mm spring as instructed.
The fuel pump’s assembly is straight forward. Part 74C, 82C and 83C have been painted in Ammo Metal Acrylic Color A.MIG-192 - Polished Metal.
The carburettor, Part 111D, 113D and 114D painted with Model Master 1790 Chrome Silver FS17178 and sealed in when dry with Model Master 1409 Sealer for Metalizer. Leave to dry. I took the liberty of painting the filler cap on part 111D and part 112D with Metal Acrylic Color A.MIG-190 - Old Brass.
Part 69E was painted with Model Master 1790 Chrome Silver FS17178 and sealed in when dry with Model Master 1409 Sealer for Metalizer.
The carburettor, Part 111D, 113D and 114D painted with Model Master 1790 Chrome Silver FS17178 and sealed in when dry with Model Master 1409 Sealer for Metalizer. Leave to dry. I took the liberty of painting the filler cap on part 111D and part 112D with Metal Acrylic Color A.MIG-190 - Old Brass.
Part 69E was painted with Model Master 1790 Chrome Silver FS17178 and sealed in when dry with Model Master 1409 Sealer for Metalizer.
Check the orientation of 90c-96c to 91c-97c according to the schematics. It must fit easily. Do not force it to fit. The same with 92c-95c to 93c-94c. Look at the protrusion at the end. Face forward. The headers and camshaft covers have been painted in Ammo Metal Acrylic Color A.MIG-192 - Polished Metal.
The tappet covers part 61E and 62E were painted with Model Master 1790 Chrome Silver FS17178 and sealed in when dry with Model Master 1409 Sealer for Metalizer.
I had to remove the locating pins for the tappet covers to allow for a square attachment. Again, make sure the part where the exhaust manifold will be attached is facing outward. I had to double check the schematics in both step 09 and 10 to make sure that parts are orientated in the right direction.
The tappet covers part 61E and 62E were painted with Model Master 1790 Chrome Silver FS17178 and sealed in when dry with Model Master 1409 Sealer for Metalizer.
I had to remove the locating pins for the tappet covers to allow for a square attachment. Again, make sure the part where the exhaust manifold will be attached is facing outward. I had to double check the schematics in both step 09 and 10 to make sure that parts are orientated in the right direction.
The manifolds, part 22E, 23E, 24E an 25E were cleaned up and painted with Ammo Metal Acrylic Color A.MIG- 0187 Metal Acrylic Color Jet Exhaust Burnt Iron.
The manifolds were assembled and glued to the cylinder heads which were assembled in step 9, before being attached to the engine block. I first glued 23E and 24E to the cylinder heads, slipped on the 2 x 9mm lengths of Ø4.2mm black PVC pipes as shown in the instructions and then glued 22E and 25E into place. I slipped on the 2 x 4mm lengths of Ø4.2mm black PVC pipes as shown in the instructions on to the stubs of 102C. I used part 30E to hold the cylinder heads together until the glue dries.
Take the fuel pump that was assembled in step 8 and attach as shown.
The accelerator, part 66E and linkage part 46E are painted with Model Master 1790 Chrome Silver FS17178 and sealed in when dry with Model Master 1409 Sealer for Metalizer. Installing the parts are first part 66E followed by part 46E.
The manifolds were assembled and glued to the cylinder heads which were assembled in step 9, before being attached to the engine block. I first glued 23E and 24E to the cylinder heads, slipped on the 2 x 9mm lengths of Ø4.2mm black PVC pipes as shown in the instructions and then glued 22E and 25E into place. I slipped on the 2 x 4mm lengths of Ø4.2mm black PVC pipes as shown in the instructions on to the stubs of 102C. I used part 30E to hold the cylinder heads together until the glue dries.
Take the fuel pump that was assembled in step 8 and attach as shown.
The accelerator, part 66E and linkage part 46E are painted with Model Master 1790 Chrome Silver FS17178 and sealed in when dry with Model Master 1409 Sealer for Metalizer. Installing the parts are first part 66E followed by part 46E.
Part 63E and part 84C are painted with Model Master 1790 Chrome Silver FS17178 and sealed in when dry with Model Master 1409 Sealer for Metalizer. The filler cap on 84C was detailed with Metal Acrylic Color A.MIG-190 - Old Brass.
Part 85C and 86C was painted with Metal Acrylic Color A.MIG-190 - Old Brass.
88C and 87C Polished Metal. Details on 87C were picked out with Humbrol 21 Gloss Black. I slipped on the 2 x 8mm lengths of Ø1.5mm black PVC pipes and 1 x 4mm of Ø3mm grey PVC pipe as shown in the instructions on to the stubs of 87C.
Part 85C and 86C was painted with Metal Acrylic Color A.MIG-190 - Old Brass.
88C and 87C Polished Metal. Details on 87C were picked out with Humbrol 21 Gloss Black. I slipped on the 2 x 8mm lengths of Ø1.5mm black PVC pipes and 1 x 4mm of Ø3mm grey PVC pipe as shown in the instructions on to the stubs of 87C.
Clean part 26E, 27E and 44E up and paint with Ammo Metal Acrylic Color A MIG-0197 Brass and sealed in when dry with Model Master 1409 Sealer for Metalizer.
Part 115D is painted with Model Master 1790 Chrome Silver FS17178 and sealed in when dry with Model Master 1409 Sealer for Metalizer. The front end was detailed with Metal Acrylic Color A.MIG-190 - Old Brass. Leave to dry and glue to part 44E. Slip on 2 x 8mm lengths of Ø3mm grey PVC pipe as shown in the instructions on to the stubs of 26E and 27E.
Clean part 103C up and paint with Model Master 1790 Chrome Silver FS17178 and sealed in when dry with Model Master 1409 Sealer for Metalizer and leave to dry. Pick out certain details with Ammo Metal Acrylic Color A MIG-0197 Brass and with Metal Acrylic Color A.MIG-190 - Old Brass. Slip on 1 x 90mm length of Ø1.5mm black PVC pipe and 1 x 14mm length of Ø1.5mm black PVC pipe on the indicated positions of part 103C. Attach to the engine as indicated.
Clean part 118D up and paint with Model Master 1790 Chrome Silver FS17178 and sealed in when dry with Model Master 1409 Sealer for Metalizer and leave to dry. Attach the 12mm spring before attaching the part to the engine.
Clean up the pedals part 116D and 117E as instructed and paint with Model Master 1790 Chrome Silver FS17178 after which sealed in when dry with Model Master 1409 Sealer for Metalizer and leave to dry. Attach as instructed.
Part 115D is painted with Model Master 1790 Chrome Silver FS17178 and sealed in when dry with Model Master 1409 Sealer for Metalizer. The front end was detailed with Metal Acrylic Color A.MIG-190 - Old Brass. Leave to dry and glue to part 44E. Slip on 2 x 8mm lengths of Ø3mm grey PVC pipe as shown in the instructions on to the stubs of 26E and 27E.
Clean part 103C up and paint with Model Master 1790 Chrome Silver FS17178 and sealed in when dry with Model Master 1409 Sealer for Metalizer and leave to dry. Pick out certain details with Ammo Metal Acrylic Color A MIG-0197 Brass and with Metal Acrylic Color A.MIG-190 - Old Brass. Slip on 1 x 90mm length of Ø1.5mm black PVC pipe and 1 x 14mm length of Ø1.5mm black PVC pipe on the indicated positions of part 103C. Attach to the engine as indicated.
Clean part 118D up and paint with Model Master 1790 Chrome Silver FS17178 and sealed in when dry with Model Master 1409 Sealer for Metalizer and leave to dry. Attach the 12mm spring before attaching the part to the engine.
Clean up the pedals part 116D and 117E as instructed and paint with Model Master 1790 Chrome Silver FS17178 after which sealed in when dry with Model Master 1409 Sealer for Metalizer and leave to dry. Attach as instructed.
Clean up parts 57E, 58E and glue to each other. Clean up parts 59E, 60E, 68E and 70E and assemble as indicated. Glue the sub-assembly to the face of part 57E followed by part 67E. Paint the assembly with Model Master 1790 Chrome Silver FS17178 and sealed in when dry with Model Master 1409 Sealer for Metalizer. Add part 119D and 120D as indicated Certain details was detailed with Metal Acrylic Color A.MIG-190 - Old Brass and Ammo Metal Acrylic Color A MIG-0197 Brass. Leave to dry.
Glue parts 28E, 29E and 32E to each other and leave to dry properly. The holes on parts 28E and 29E must be turned inwards towards where it will be attached to the engine.. When properly dry, paint the assembly with Ammo Metal Acrylic Color A MIG-0197 Brass and pick out details on part 32E with Metal Acrylic Color A.MIG-190 - Old Brass. Leave to dry.
Slip the Part 32E assembly behind the PVC pipe at the front of part 103C linked to part 87C. Secure to the engine as indicated. This requires some care.
Secure the part 57E assembly into the slot on the gearbox as indicated and glue to the camshaft covers.
Glue parts 28E, 29E and 32E to each other and leave to dry properly. The holes on parts 28E and 29E must be turned inwards towards where it will be attached to the engine.. When properly dry, paint the assembly with Ammo Metal Acrylic Color A MIG-0197 Brass and pick out details on part 32E with Metal Acrylic Color A.MIG-190 - Old Brass. Leave to dry.
Slip the Part 32E assembly behind the PVC pipe at the front of part 103C linked to part 87C. Secure to the engine as indicated. This requires some care.
Secure the part 57E assembly into the slot on the gearbox as indicated and glue to the camshaft covers.
Clean up the magneto shafts, parts 34E and 35E and paint with Model Master 1790 Chrome Silver FS17178 and sealed in when dry with Model Master 1409 Sealer for Metalizer. Leave to dry.
Clean up part 121D and paint gloss black.
Clean up the magnetos, part 100C and 101C and paint in Ammo Metal Acrylic Color A.MIG-192 - Polished Metal.
Slip parts 4K and 5K onto part 67E as indicated.
Secure part 121D to the gearbox by securing with the bolts going through the cut-outs, place the washers on the top and secure with nut 4, not nut 2 as called out.
Add to the magnetos, part 100C and 101C the rubber parts 6K and 7K at its back followed by the magneto shafts, parts 34E and 35E. Insert the magneto assemblies in the slots in part 121D. Use a tweezer to guide the shafts into the rubber parts 4K and 5K.
The plug wires parts 1K and 2K, can now be attached onto the faces of the magnetos part 100C and 101C. Insert the plug wires into the moulded plugs starting with the shortest wire onto the closest plug working towards the front.
Clean up part 121D and paint gloss black.
Clean up the magnetos, part 100C and 101C and paint in Ammo Metal Acrylic Color A.MIG-192 - Polished Metal.
Slip parts 4K and 5K onto part 67E as indicated.
Secure part 121D to the gearbox by securing with the bolts going through the cut-outs, place the washers on the top and secure with nut 4, not nut 2 as called out.
Add to the magnetos, part 100C and 101C the rubber parts 6K and 7K at its back followed by the magneto shafts, parts 34E and 35E. Insert the magneto assemblies in the slots in part 121D. Use a tweezer to guide the shafts into the rubber parts 4K and 5K.
The plug wires parts 1K and 2K, can now be attached onto the faces of the magnetos part 100C and 101C. Insert the plug wires into the moulded plugs starting with the shortest wire onto the closest plug working towards the front.
Start from the top and clean up the steering wheel, part 9A, the star, part 4F and the steering knob, part 122D. Though it is recommended that part 4F is paint chrome, I opted to paint the star the same colour as the body, red Mr. Color 327 Red FG111G6.
Clean up and assemble the steering mechanism part 26B, 11B and 12B, steering shaft, part 27B and 123D. Note that there is a very bad placed sprue gate on the gearhead, part 26B. This needs careful removing from the sprue and cleaning up to maintain free rotation inside parts 11B and 12B. Paint the whole assembly, including part 54E and 64E with Model Master 1790 Chrome Silver FS17178.
Clean up the part 124D and paint gloss black together with the steering wheel knob, part 122D.
The assembly sequence followed: 1) Assemble the steering wheel part 9A, 4F and 122D. Wrap the steering wheel. 2) Before inserting part 27B into the steering box, insert part 27B through part 124D. Complete the assembly as directed. 3) Carefully slip the transparent part 1CF over part 123D and secure the steering wheel into place as directed. 4) Place part 54E on part 4F and carefully glue part 1CF to part 54E from the back.
Clean up and assemble the steering mechanism part 26B, 11B and 12B, steering shaft, part 27B and 123D. Note that there is a very bad placed sprue gate on the gearhead, part 26B. This needs careful removing from the sprue and cleaning up to maintain free rotation inside parts 11B and 12B. Paint the whole assembly, including part 54E and 64E with Model Master 1790 Chrome Silver FS17178.
Clean up the part 124D and paint gloss black together with the steering wheel knob, part 122D.
The assembly sequence followed: 1) Assemble the steering wheel part 9A, 4F and 122D. Wrap the steering wheel. 2) Before inserting part 27B into the steering box, insert part 27B through part 124D. Complete the assembly as directed. 3) Carefully slip the transparent part 1CF over part 123D and secure the steering wheel into place as directed. 4) Place part 54E on part 4F and carefully glue part 1CF to part 54E from the back.
Clean up parts 125D, 126D and 127D and paint with Model Master 1790 Chrome Silver FS17178.
Assembly sequence: 1) Insert a screw 8 through the attachment point and secure the steering box to the engine. 2) Assemble the number 2 screws, each with two washers each, topped off with number 4 nuts and slip thee screws into slits part 124D. Then lever the screws into the slots in part 121D. Secure. 3) Insert part 127D into part 125D, 67E and hook up to the protrusion on part 124D. 4) Hook part 126D onto the opposite side of part 124D and glue to part 125D.
Assembly sequence: 1) Insert a screw 8 through the attachment point and secure the steering box to the engine. 2) Assemble the number 2 screws, each with two washers each, topped off with number 4 nuts and slip thee screws into slits part 124D. Then lever the screws into the slots in part 121D. Secure. 3) Insert part 127D into part 125D, 67E and hook up to the protrusion on part 124D. 4) Hook part 126D onto the opposite side of part 124D and glue to part 125D.
Shoehorn the engine in, starting with the front and finally settle in the back part. Line up the engine mountings at the back. Secure with no11 screws. Be mindful where the starter crank will fit through the radiator.
I started at the back and secured part 3K between the prop shaft, part 25B and the gearbox, part 79C. Then secured part 104D into the right opening on part 66E.
In placing the tube E, I had to remove a stabiliser, part 108D to secure the tube from the bottom to the floor, part 18E and the engine block, part73C. I retrospect it might have been easier to first secure the tube to the floor, part 18E before shoehorning in the engine.
Insert tube D into the floor, part 18E, feed across the gearbox and insert into the engine block, part 72C.
Moving forward. I inserted the bottom water pipe from the bottom between the water pump, part 115D and the radiator, part 131D. The top waterpipe, part 1K is the last to be inserted between part 30E and 132D. Part 1K seems to be on the short side.
Insert the no14 screw to secure the front engine mountings.
I started at the back and secured part 3K between the prop shaft, part 25B and the gearbox, part 79C. Then secured part 104D into the right opening on part 66E.
In placing the tube E, I had to remove a stabiliser, part 108D to secure the tube from the bottom to the floor, part 18E and the engine block, part73C. I retrospect it might have been easier to first secure the tube to the floor, part 18E before shoehorning in the engine.
Insert tube D into the floor, part 18E, feed across the gearbox and insert into the engine block, part 72C.
Moving forward. I inserted the bottom water pipe from the bottom between the water pump, part 115D and the radiator, part 131D. The top waterpipe, part 1K is the last to be inserted between part 30E and 132D. Part 1K seems to be on the short side.
Insert the no14 screw to secure the front engine mountings.
The outside of engine bonnet’s panels, H2 and H3 was primed with Mr Surfacer 1000 (White), painted red Mr. Color 327 Red FG111G6, wet sanded with 1500 grit. When I was satisfied, I painted the panels with Tamiya X-27 Clear Red. Again, I wet sanded the coats until I was happy with the finish. The parts were sealed in with Humbrol Clear Gloss Varnish. Finally, the parts were polished up using Tamiya’s three-part Polishing Compound.
The inside of engine bonnet’s panels, H2 and H3 was painted with Tamiya TS-17 Gloss Aluminium and left to dry.
Adding the racing numbers, you are given the choice between stencils and spray the numbers on, or decals. I opted for the decals because the stencils did not want to stick to the polished surface. With the help of Micro Set and Sol the decals settled well.
Clean up parts 36E, 37E, 38E and 39E and paint with Model Master 1790 Chrome Silver FS17178. Cut 2 x 8mm lengths and 2 x 13mm lengths of spring as instructed to secure the bonnet.
The seat’s fairing, 6G was primed with Mr Surfacer 1000 (White), painted red Mr. Color 327 Red FG111G6, wet sanded with 1500 grit. When I was satisfied, I painted the panels with Tamiya X-27 Clear Red. Again, I wet sanded the coats until I was happy with the finish. The parts were sealed in with Humbrol Clear Gloss Varnish. Finally, the parts were polished up using Tamiya’s three-part Polishing Compound.
Clean up part 00K, the seat and attach the seat to fairing using parts 5E, 47E, 48E, 49E and 50E. The holes on the seat have already been pre-cut by the manufacturer.
The inside of engine bonnet’s panels, H2 and H3 was painted with Tamiya TS-17 Gloss Aluminium and left to dry.
Adding the racing numbers, you are given the choice between stencils and spray the numbers on, or decals. I opted for the decals because the stencils did not want to stick to the polished surface. With the help of Micro Set and Sol the decals settled well.
Clean up parts 36E, 37E, 38E and 39E and paint with Model Master 1790 Chrome Silver FS17178. Cut 2 x 8mm lengths and 2 x 13mm lengths of spring as instructed to secure the bonnet.
The seat’s fairing, 6G was primed with Mr Surfacer 1000 (White), painted red Mr. Color 327 Red FG111G6, wet sanded with 1500 grit. When I was satisfied, I painted the panels with Tamiya X-27 Clear Red. Again, I wet sanded the coats until I was happy with the finish. The parts were sealed in with Humbrol Clear Gloss Varnish. Finally, the parts were polished up using Tamiya’s three-part Polishing Compound.
Clean up part 00K, the seat and attach the seat to fairing using parts 5E, 47E, 48E, 49E and 50E. The holes on the seat have already been pre-cut by the manufacturer.
The body panels, G1, and G4 was primed with Mr Surfacer 1000 (White), painted red Mr. Color 327 Red FG111G6, wet sanded with 1500 grit. When I was satisfied, I painted the panels with Tamiya X-27 Clear Red. Again, I wet sanded the coats until I was happy with the finish. The parts were secured using a screw as directed as well as two-part clear epoxy. The decals were then applied with the use of Micro Set and Sol and settled down very well. The parts were sealed in with Humbrol Clear Gloss Varnish. Finally, the parts were polished up using Tamiya’s three-part Polishing Compound.
Glue the instrument panel (that was build in step 28) into position after the three cables have been fed through the hole in the body. I marked the individual strands.
The exhaust pipes, parts 144D and 145D was cleaned up and the exhaust ends, parts 146D x 2 was attached. I hollowed out the ends. The centers of the exhaust were wrapped to simulate the asbestos tape which is seen in reference photos. The tape was weathered after which the pipes were painted with Tamiya X-18 Semi-Gloss Black.
Assembling the windscreen, it was noticed that the clear part, part 2CF is too narrow. A replacement was cut from clear plastic and glued into place.
Given the choice between part 56E and 2PE with the exhaust guard, I chose the plastic part, 56E which I painted up using Model Master 1790 Chrome Silver FS17178. The PE part’s location nubs do not match the holes in the body.
Glue the instrument panel (that was build in step 28) into position after the three cables have been fed through the hole in the body. I marked the individual strands.
The exhaust pipes, parts 144D and 145D was cleaned up and the exhaust ends, parts 146D x 2 was attached. I hollowed out the ends. The centers of the exhaust were wrapped to simulate the asbestos tape which is seen in reference photos. The tape was weathered after which the pipes were painted with Tamiya X-18 Semi-Gloss Black.
Assembling the windscreen, it was noticed that the clear part, part 2CF is too narrow. A replacement was cut from clear plastic and glued into place.
Given the choice between part 56E and 2PE with the exhaust guard, I chose the plastic part, 56E which I painted up using Model Master 1790 Chrome Silver FS17178. The PE part’s location nubs do not match the holes in the body.
To secure the bodyshell to the chassis with screws as directed, the rear wheels had to be removed again as well as the back shock absorbers had to be partially removed.
Fitting the steering rod that was assembled in step 28 is very finicky and require care. It fit a specific way in the cut-out in the steering box.
Securing the bonnet panels was straight forward.
Fitting the fuel cap, part 45E after being with Model Master 1790 Chrome Silver FS17178 went on without challenge.
I stippled the manifolds, 148D and 149D with Mr. Surfacer 500 to recreate texture. When dry, I painted the two parts with Tamiya X-18 Semi-Gloss Black.
I then secured the tubes coming from behind the instrument cluster to its places on the engine using a tweezer.
Next, I slipped the photo etched parts 3PE over the ends of the 144D and 145D after I have bend them into shape. The manifolds were glue into place and the two photo etched parts were used to dry them at the right height. The manifold exhaust stubs closest to the firewall is too short when trying to line-up with the exhaust pipes.
The fuel cap, part 45E and the radiator cap, part 150D went on without a hitch after being painted with Model Master 1790 Chrome Silver FS17178. The crank handle does not line up with the engine.
Modify the rubber seat, part 00K as indicated in step 30, otherwise the prop shaft will interfere with the fit.
Fitting the steering rod that was assembled in step 28 is very finicky and require care. It fit a specific way in the cut-out in the steering box.
Securing the bonnet panels was straight forward.
Fitting the fuel cap, part 45E after being with Model Master 1790 Chrome Silver FS17178 went on without challenge.
I stippled the manifolds, 148D and 149D with Mr. Surfacer 500 to recreate texture. When dry, I painted the two parts with Tamiya X-18 Semi-Gloss Black.
I then secured the tubes coming from behind the instrument cluster to its places on the engine using a tweezer.
Next, I slipped the photo etched parts 3PE over the ends of the 144D and 145D after I have bend them into shape. The manifolds were glue into place and the two photo etched parts were used to dry them at the right height. The manifold exhaust stubs closest to the firewall is too short when trying to line-up with the exhaust pipes.
The fuel cap, part 45E and the radiator cap, part 150D went on without a hitch after being painted with Model Master 1790 Chrome Silver FS17178. The crank handle does not line up with the engine.
Modify the rubber seat, part 00K as indicated in step 30, otherwise the prop shaft will interfere with the fit.
Komentáře
140 4 December 2022, 18:40
JvLooking forward to see what the kit is like
Seen the model in the shops for sometime
4 December 2022, 20:22
Villiers de VosMy impressions so far:
Lots of seamlines;
Some sink marks;
Clear instructions;
Parts clearly marked;
Parts fit not perfect, but not challenging. 🙂
9 December 2022, 05:47
Villiers de VosI plan to build this car as sub-assemblies (chassis, engine and body/coachwork.
I have spend some time getting all the parts off that the chassis comprise of, stripped off the chrome of the specific parts and painted everything. While working on and painting the floor pan and radiator cover, I also painted the rest of the body panels.
That being said, lets build the chassis.
4 January 2023, 16:55
Villiers de VosI used Tamiya Paint stripper. One of my wife's silk stockings to strain the small parts out and recovered most of the liquid. Beware, it stinks!
4 January 2023, 17:32
Villiers de VosThank you Benjamin, I will keep my eyes open. This seems like I saddled a wild horse here.
4 January 2023, 19:46
Kyle DeHartOne I have long wanted to build, but price and availability make it so hard. Not sure how I missed the beginning of this but I can't wait to see where you take it
4 January 2023, 22:36
Villiers de VosThank you for the words of encouragement Kyle and Mona.
I hope to give an honest and clear report. You may call me a glutton for punishment because I have another model from this manufacturer in my stash 🙂
6 January 2023, 04:15
Kyle DeHartI hope it's another 1/12 scale classic race car Villiers but that's just me being selfish. 😂. I'll be here every step of the way.
6 January 2023, 04:50
Villiers de VosKyle, it is the Fiat Mefistofele in 1:12. I love the classic cars and 1:12 is my favourite scale.
6 January 2023, 06:16
Kyle DeHartExcellent!! The Mefistofele is maybe my favorite one. Love the look of that car. A somewhat local shop to me even has one on the shelf but for a price even higher than eBay! Lol. So, for now, I will live vicariously through others. Your 806 is looking really nice so far!!
6 January 2023, 11:55
Villiers de VosThank you Kyle, Bughunter and Guy for your kind words.
I am nearly finished with the chassis and found the front suspension a challenging. The project is time consuming but also very rewarding at the same time.
7 January 2023, 06:46
Michael KohlAlthough six times too big for my regular appetite, you definitely watered my mouth with this build so far. Beautiful progress of a fast looking car.
7 January 2023, 07:31
Kyle DeHartThe first "modern" F1 car as we know them today. Low slung and Purpose built and with no riding mechanic. Fiats racing factory claimed it was capable of nearly 150 mph. A great subject to build a model of.
7 January 2023, 12:20
Villiers de VosI made some progress today. The construction work on the chassis will be completed within the next few days. The parts for the engine has also been cleaned up, build in sub-assemblies and painted up.
12 January 2023, 13:12
Kyle DeHartThe radiator and grille assembly look really fantastic. As does your chassis work.
12 January 2023, 19:17
Villiers de VosThank you for your kind comments Kyle.
This starting to look like a car 🙂
13 January 2023, 15:12
Villiers de VosThank you Vincent and Rui.
That ugly four letter word W-O-R-K kept on interfering with benchwork this past month 🙂
3 February 2023, 05:26
bughunterGreat work! 👍
I hope you never need the content of the bottle, which are visible in the background of pic 41 !
Regarding your ugly four letter word: From the inside, the hamster wheel looks like a career ladder 😉
3 February 2023, 14:10
Villiers de VosThank you Frank. I hope to show that the content did not recede in follow-up pictures 🙂
The engine has now been married to the chassis. Inserting the flexible hose close to the gearbox had me muttering under my breath.... Only once or twice perhaps.....
4 February 2023, 16:56
Chris VandegriftThis was such a cool era of racing. You're really making this look like it came forward in time!
8 February 2023, 04:03
MartinGreat work Villiers! it looks really good so far. Im quite surprised by the kit quality, or does it just looks good on the pictures?
8 February 2023, 10:21
Villiers de VosKyle, Guy, Rui and Chris, thank you for your kind words.
Martin, every single part needs cleaning up. My effort is far form flawless.
8 February 2023, 15:53
JvFantastic work
Thanks for all the information and pics on this build
Very interesting
15 April 2023, 09:52
Villiers de VosThank you for your kind words. I lost count how many times I have stripped the paint on the body. The end is in sight. In polishing the body shell I accidently broke off the "needle " that holds down the bonnet panels.
16 April 2023, 16:30
CaptGPFVery nice! Love the step by step photos and the details! And the wood grain looks amazing! I wonder how much of it will be visible when it's all put together. When I started this hobby, I would skip detailing hard to see parts in my kits, but have since started detailing everything…. I may have developed OCD because of this hobby….
17 April 2023, 15:08
Kerry COXWOW. ! My juices are flowing mate. What an exciting trip . !
Your descriptive texts have de mystified a most complex and detailed kit. 👍
I was never much of a fan of the Italian model makers, but with this, I could get my mojo back. 🙂
Almost $300.00 here in Aus, but from how you have presented it. Fully worth every penny and the time it would take.
I am sold. 👍 🙂
28 April 2023, 08:25
Kyle DeHartI agree completely Kerry. This build log has also really made me want to save my pennys so I can try to tackle this at some point.
28 April 2023, 08:53
Jennifer FranklinNice step-by-step build, which makes it easy to follow. I don't think I will try this anytime soon, I already want something a little easier for my second model 🙂. Beautiful work on your part.
4 May 2023, 20:28
Villiers de VosThank you Mates for your interest and positive remarks. I am calling this one finished. I am happy with the outcome although it is far from perfect. I left notes (my own thoughts) at the top of the project.
17 May 2023, 20:06
Villiers de VosThank you everybody for your kind words. It is very much appreciated.
18 May 2023, 16:34
Jean-Daniel AebischerTrès beau travail, tu sais ces kits Italeri sont des reboîtages de Protar, une marque de maquettes très approximatives, il y a toujours beaucoup d'inexactitudes et donc de travail. Ce sont des modèles qui se méritent, Bravo. 👍
23 May 2023, 14:32
Mr JamesGreat building pics. A pleasure to watch. There's some lovely detailed painting going on in this build. 🙂
31 May 2023, 18:14
Villiers de VosLawrence and Wojtek G, thank you for your kind words. Yes, it is very intricate work. This model was a real challenge. To see it completed and not back in it's box is very gratifying 🙂
1 July 2023, 17:32
Ludvík KružíkVilliers, you've done some honest modelling work on this model and it shows.
Your Fiat looks great! 👍
6 July 2023, 10:14
Richard BerrieWonderful work, and especially the way you share so much with the community. We really appreciate the hard work and dedication. Thank you.
11 July 2023, 16:31
Richard BerrieI have the Alfa Romeo 8C 2300 Monza from Italeri in my lineup to start this year. I think your build will go a long way to help with mine.
11 July 2023, 16:33
Stephen LesleyAbsolutely stunning model. For some reason, the black wire wheels really set off the car. Makes it look so much more purposeful.
25 July 2023, 16:30
Villiers de VosRichard and Stephan, thank you for the time taken to comment and your kind words.
Richard, yes I also love the larger scale cars. I am happy to hear that you found this build report helpful. Two aspects of the Mefistofele that is now on the bench that I find is taxing on me is the engine wiring (which I finished) and the drive chain (in process). The end result makes it worthwhile. Italeri's offerings are not "shake and bake" kits 🙂
26 July 2023, 14:03
Album info
The kit comes moulded in pre-coloured sprues. The four colours are black, red, grey and silver chrome. I chose to strip the chrome and re-painted the colours.
Can be built in sub-units, Engine, Chassis, Body.
Because of the kit's multi-media nature, I would recommend it for experienced builders.
Not a shake and bake kit. Every single part needed cleaning up.
Double check the drawings in the instructions to establish where you should cut parts off.
Double check the pictures in the instructions before you commit to glue.
Do not be intimidated by the complexity. Study each stage in detail and you will gradually be able to build up each sub-assembly.
Some of the subassemblies (the shock absorbers in particular) is made up from parts that appears to be similar, but are not. I used a storage case with compartments to keep the parts organized.
Few errors on the instructions:
•Step 12: The pipes attached to part 103C are Ø1.5mm black PVC pipe and not Ø3.2mm black PVC pipe as indicated.
•Step 14: Secure part 121D to the gearbox with two number 04 nuts and not number 02 nuts as indicated.
Step 31: Part 2CF is not wide enough. Replace with a windshield cut from clear sheet.
Use a magnetised screw driver to secure the screws.
Positive
No loose parts that broke off the sprues.
Instructions clear.
Nuts, bolts, screw and springs a nice touch.
Good building reports available on ScaleMates.
Few photoetch.
Parts clearly marked.
The packaging of the sprue trees, body panels are very good and prevent damage.
The nuts, bolts, screws, pipes, wires, springs, etc came in a very nice compartmentalised container clearly marked.
No serious fit issues. The PE option for the exhaust guard, 2PE does not fit the holes in the body. Part 2CF is not wide enough. Replace with a windshield cut from clear sheet.
The nuts and bolts allow for adjustments with regards to parts.
This model offers a balance for modellers to satisfy the builders and painters.
The choice for the numbers between decals and stencils is a nice touch.
Negative
Thick sprue gates, delicate parts brakes. Sprue gates on gearheads. Use razor saw. 127D; 54E, 46E.
Every part need work, cleaning up seamlines, ejection marks.
Even by pre-threading the indicating parts you risk wringing off the neck of the threaded parts.
This kit fought me every centimetre during the final assembly. Lining up the manifold with exhaust pipes cannot happen using the parts as is. The manifold pipe closest to the firewall have to be extended. The started crank handle does not line up through the openings in the radiator into the engine.
