Show 21 previous comments JOHN THOMAS
I started a new Project an old school build of the Hasegawa's F-8E Crusader. This Project will be mostly out of the box with a few added details. I will use Misroscale Decal sheet no. 72-86 "F-8 USMC". I will use markings for VMF-333. I will also add an True Details resin seat. The kit dates to 1985. It has raised panel line and a very basic cockpit.
10. August 2018 at 13:32:40
Following... I like old school projects
10. August 2018 at 17:30:36
I've always liked the look of this aircraft for some reason.
10. August 2018 at 18:33:10
10. August 2018 at 19:44:52
Cuajete, James and Konrad, Thanks. More photos up soon.
11. August 2018 at 00:55:56
12. August 2018 at 08:50:13
Added some new photos today. Getting ready for paint.
14. August 2018 at 00:24:19
I seem to have missed the start of this one... pulling up a chair fast now.
14. August 2018 at 03:10:13
14. August 2018 at 04:04:16
Thanks, Greg and Edgars. My compressor blow up today and I will need a new one. I wanted to start painting but it will have to wait a few days. I have had this compressor over 15 years so I have gotten good use out of it.
14. August 2018 at 12:22:25
17. August 2018 at 13:57:10
That sucks, but 15 years of service... well you sure can't complain. I'll be lucky if I get 5 out of mine...
I'm sure it'll be worth the wait though!
17. August 2018 at 15:04:41
Hey Greg, I will be going on the hunt for a new compressor over the weekend. I don't know if I should get a compressor with a tank or not? My old one did not have one. I would hate to send more than 200 dollars for one. I have see some real cheap ones online. So the hunt is on if you have any ideas as to type and maker please fill free to let me know.
17. August 2018 at 17:50:07
I see that I missed the start of this, so I am probably too late with these details. The F-8D had the smaller nose of the F-8A, B, C, D, H, and RF-8A and RF-8G. The A, B, C and D didn't have the upper wing hump of the F-8E, J, and F-8H.
As I said, probably too late for these changes, unless you think you want to, then you can still sand and fill before you get a new compressor.
As for compressors,,,,a tank is very helpful as a "pressure buffer", it helps give a nice even flow of air at the setting you want, with a regulator and pressure gauge in the setup.
17. August 2018 at 18:22:04
18. August 2018 at 01:57:56
Hey guy's after several days of looking I went out and got a Harbor Freight Air Compressor with Airbrush. The set was $89 US Dollars. The compressor is 1/5 HP and max air output of 58 psi. The airbrush is a kind of a Badger 155 rip off but of very poor quality. I did spray some water thru it and the action was rough but it may have some use? I can now get back to work painting the F-8.
20. August 2018 at 14:53:40
BTW the airbrush comes with a tool to remove the air cap but it did not come with any tool to remove the nozzle for cleaning. However I tried the tool for the Iwata NEO and it worked.
20. August 2018 at 15:14:15
The important thing is that you can finally go back to work. Waiting for the next updates
20. August 2018 at 17:32:43
One thing I have seen people do with Harbor Freight is to buy their six-pack of airbrushes, and disassemble them, then mix and match to get as many good airbrushes as they can out of them. I have seen 3 or 4 good airbrushes come out of a six-pack this way. And those packs were priced as cheaper than one good airbrush from the parent design company, which I agree, I also think those are copies of a Badger. (if my memory is right)
20. August 2018 at 17:59:58
21. August 2018 at 00:25:02
Rex, my Harbor Freight store did not have the six pack set but I have seen them and you are right with some effort you may be able to get the Harbor Freight airbrush to work fine. I did a little painting today new photos up soon. I forget to add that the Harbor Freight airbrush has rubber O-rings.
21. August 2018 at 00:31:05
Glad to hear you're back in action. Lately I've been fighting with my airbrush as well. I clean it thoroughly after every use, but I've been noticing some issues like choppy spray, bubbles in the cup, nothing coming out at all until I "fiddle with it". So I've been wondering how much of that is "user error" vs. "quality product". I bought this airbrush/compressor (modelsale.com/modelsale/popr..x2=7&idx3=32&idx4=3)
for about $100-110 a couple of years ago. But I'm starting to think I need to upgrade. I'm not sure what's an appropriate price/quality/skill intersection is though. I don't need a fancy one... but I'd really like to get a better spray.
Or do I just need more practice?
21. August 2018 at 01:46:07
Wow, Greg that hard to say. Some times after I clean my brush if the spray is still off you could have a little dried paint in the nozzle. I have found in airbrushing get the best airbrush you can afford. The cheap one will work but will let you down. If you are getting bubbles there is some kind of blockage some were .If you upgrade go quality and practice, practice, practice is always use full. I just got a new NEO for Iwata a few months ago at a model show. It was around $55 US Dollars on sale. I really like it so far and I am using it to paint the F-8.
21. August 2018 at 12:16:40
21. August 2018 at 12:19:12
New photos up today. Most all of the major painting is now complete. Some small detail painting need to be done and then the first clear coat.
27. August 2018 at 12:42:29
27. August 2018 at 18:27:12
28. August 2018 at 00:04:50
Not a good day for the F-8. I can of mess up the clear gloss coat really badly. The clear gloss I used sprayed real lumply and did not level out. Not sure what I will now do. I will wait a few day and let the gloss dry to see what I can do. I do have a second F-8 kit if I would want to start over.
30. August 2018 at 00:29:29
surely a light bit of sanding with 3000 grit or so would take it down once it's dried, no? Seems like a shame to just start over again.
30. August 2018 at 00:56:32
Hey Greg, I think that is what I am going to do. Give it a light sanding and see. I don't know if the gloss was old, or may be the pressure was off. I will look into using a different gloss. BTW Greg, what kind of gloss do you use? I tried Liquitex gloss varnish. It comes in a 8 oz bottle. I have use it on paintings and it works well so why not models. It's not meant to be airbrushed and that could be part of my problem. I did not thin it and I may have applied to much. I all way seam to have problems with clear coats.
30. August 2018 at 12:50:06
Clear that has gone off can be a bear to work with. I generally try to keep the cans fresh and if I am using an airbrush for clear coats I test it on a scrap before I commit. I have also used Pledge Floor Care as a gloss coat. Good luck on getting the F-8 looking better.
30. August 2018 at 13:17:26
I'm with Bryn on this one. I actually use Future (aka Pledge Floor Gloss) for all my clear coats. Perhaps there are better ones, but the fact that you can airbrush it right out of the bottle, it's a no-fumes acrylic, it self levels and, if all else fails, you wipe it off with a bit of Windex (or some other amonia-based glass cleaner), I've never found the need to stray any further. It also doesn't hurt that one bottle ($5) bottle is basically a life-time supply... or that your models smell likes spring cleaning afterwards.
30. August 2018 at 15:25:49
30. August 2018 at 15:27:05
Bryn and Greg, Thanks. I have used Future in the pass but did have some issues with decals setting solutions eating into the Future. That was some time ago and may be it's time to try Future again. I need to solve my clear coating problems before I can continue working. I will have to do some testing on water based or Acrylic clear coats on some old models, Thanks everyone.
31. August 2018 at 00:03:20
I think the big key with using PFC is to ensure the paints and decal setting solution have completely off gased(cured). Some modelers actually use PFC to set decals. Haven't tried that yet. I use Micro Scale Set and Sol for decals.
31. August 2018 at 01:49:59
I've never had that problem, however I only ever use Tamiya's Mark Fit. Although, given that most of my builds are WHIF I don't use many decals at all... so truth be told, I'm not even 100% sure what the Mark Fit (or Micro Scale Set/Sol) are supposed to do?
31. August 2018 at 03:44:47
Bryn, Thanks again. I need to revisit the Future and decal setting solution and do more testing.
31. August 2018 at 12:30:49
Hey Greg, Micro Sol/Set and others decal setting solutions are used to apply decals. They help them stick and conform to the model shapes. The solution is a mild acid much like vinegar. I will try to do some sanding over the weekend on the F-8. I only have one sheet of decals of markings for VMF-333, F-8 so I must be sure the Future clear coat and decal setting solutions will work.
31. August 2018 at 12:37:38
Add comment »
2. September 2018 at 17:03:27