Percival Vega Gull OO-ANC build
One of 3 pictures I have found of the Percival Vega Gull nr. K.46 in its Belgian finish. All 3 were taken between September 1939 and May 1940, when the aircraft had been requisitioned by the Belgian army, to serve as a liaison aircraft presumably. Its owner was Guy d'Hansez, a distinguished rally and race pilot of the 30's and later also known as an automobile race pilot.
He is seen here standing in front of his airplane, since he was drafted along with it.
This image is the only one that shows the side roundel and civilian code underneath. It's also essential in determining the color of the body of the airplane (the wings were nearly always silver on Gulls), as the roundel gives us a reference for red (outside), yellow, and black. Since the picture was taken in the then common orthochromatic black and white film, the red is as dark as the center black. Clearly, the body is not red, and darker than yellow. The silver fin and wings also show that the body is a different color than silver, so the Dora Wings instructions are wrong there.
He is seen here standing in front of his airplane, since he was drafted along with it.
This image is the only one that shows the side roundel and civilian code underneath. It's also essential in determining the color of the body of the airplane (the wings were nearly always silver on Gulls), as the roundel gives us a reference for red (outside), yellow, and black. Since the picture was taken in the then common orthochromatic black and white film, the red is as dark as the center black. Clearly, the body is not red, and darker than yellow. The silver fin and wings also show that the body is a different color than silver, so the Dora Wings instructions are wrong there.
Another clear-weather picture, known to have been taken at Evere airport. The wing rouldels and codes are visible on this one. Also, the wing tips are painted, possibly in red (same shade of grey as the roundel outer color). The cabin color is discernible a bit, and I decided it would be nice (and credible) in red, as other Gull interiors I have seen. But no certainty there !
A winter image of the plane with motor running. This picture has been colorised elsewhere on the net with the body of the aircraft in red. But the outer part of the roundel is visible, and it's clearly darker than the body color (again, orthochromatic film where red shows as near black). The fin, rudder and wings clearly show that they are in a different color, which I believe was the silver finish common on these.
An interesting detail : the radio mast and antenna, which is not present on pictures of the aircraft before this period.
An interesting detail : the radio mast and antenna, which is not present on pictures of the aircraft before this period.
The Vega Gull K.46 was built in 1937 and first registered in the UK as G-AETD. It was owned by Percival Aircraft for a while, before being sold to Barbara Wenman, who became Countess of Châteaubrun when she married Guy de Châteaubrun. Guy de Châteaubrun was an accomplished French racing pilot who represented Percival Aircraft in France at that time. He flew this particular Vega Gull extensively from Fevruary 1937 to his death in September 1938 testing a Delanne 20T prototype. K.26 was then sold to Guy d'Hansez in February 1939.
This picture seems to date back to the period when the aircraft was still at Percival's Luton headquarters, maybe when it first left the assembly line.
This picture seems to date back to the period when the aircraft was still at Percival's Luton headquarters, maybe when it first left the assembly line.
This and the next tree pictures are the only ones that I found of G-AETD while it was owned by Guy de Châteaubrun and his wife (in the center of the picture). It remained registered in England during that time under her name, but was flown by both, including during long rally races in North Africa (Rallye du Hoggar, in 1937) and Egypt (Rallye des Oasis, early 1938).
Another image taken during one of the Hoggar rally race.
The propeller hub is very long and pointy, different from the one I have seen on other Vega Gulls or Proctors. Maybe from the Mew Gull which Chateaubrun flew several times ?
The propeller hub is very long and pointy, different from the one I have seen on other Vega Gulls or Proctors. Maybe from the Mew Gull which Chateaubrun flew several times ?
This picture was taken during the Egyptian rally race. The UK code is barely visible on the side. It was most likely in silver or white. The body of the aircraft is a darker color than the code, but it is not clear whether it was the same color later, when registered in Belgium. The OO-ANC code was repainted in black, so it's very possible the whole body was repainted too (especially since Châteaubrun was so closely affiliated with Percival Aircraft).
Interestingly, Guy d'Hansez also participated in the Rallye des Oasis, flying a Caudron Simoun (F-ANXB), so would have met Châteaubrun (and his Vega Gull) then, if not before.
Interestingly, Guy d'Hansez also participated in the Rallye des Oasis, flying a Caudron Simoun (F-ANXB), so would have met Châteaubrun (and his Vega Gull) then, if not before.
Now, onto the build. Given how vague the Dora Wings instructions ofter are, I decided to begin with the main parts of the cabin and the fuselage to check for placement and fit.
I added a few details based on sketches from the period. The Evergreen separation 'wall' between front and rear cockpit is probably taller than it should be.
I added a few details based on sketches from the period. The Evergreen separation 'wall' between front and rear cockpit is probably taller than it should be.
First modification needed to make the Proctor kit into a Vega Gull : the back of the cabin must be turned into a plain wall. Behind was a luggage compartment reachable from the port side (seen open in picture 5 above).
The side walls must be plugged with kit parts, but this does not correspond to any visible feature in the real airplane. I won't bother hiding them too much, since it's not likely to be noticeable. I did scribe a couple of structurla lines that should be visible.
The side walls must be plugged with kit parts, but this does not correspond to any visible feature in the real airplane. I won't bother hiding them too much, since it's not likely to be noticeable. I did scribe a couple of structurla lines that should be visible.
Continuing to check for basic fit on other parts. With a bit of clean up, it's not too bad.
I blocked the propeller shaft inside the engine (keeping it rotating) so it does not fall off later.
The rear bench is fine, but the front seats are wrong for the Gull series : they should be touring style seats (similar to the be rear ones), not military bucket seats. I will deal with this later, since they can easily be added anytime until the canopy is glued one.
I blocked the propeller shaft inside the engine (keeping it rotating) so it does not fall off later.
The rear bench is fine, but the front seats are wrong for the Gull series : they should be touring style seats (similar to the be rear ones), not military bucket seats. I will deal with this later, since they can easily be added anytime until the canopy is glued one.
First trials of main fuselage fit. Again, with a bit of clean up and adjustment, it's not too bad.
Same with the bottom of the fuselage. I was worried about the way the bottom part fits inside the sides all along, and the sprue gates in the middle of that, but patient cleaning promises a decent fit.
A few pictures of the DH Gypsy Six from a Gull 6 being renovated in Australia. The engine on the Vega Gull was essentially the same.
Very little is visible of the engine once the cowling is closed, except for the front pus-rod side of it.
Dora Wings' flat pushrods and ignition wires from their PE fret are essentially useless.
Dora Wings' flat pushrods and ignition wires from their PE fret are essentially useless.
This one is also helpful to understand how the kit's parts for the engine are supposed to fit, which is very vague from the instructions.
I chose to also represent the engine mount that is visible from the front cowling.
I chose to also represent the engine mount that is visible from the front cowling.
First steps on the engine : I will only bother with the front half since I won't use the (hopelessly flat) PE pushrods. Holes are drilled to help place the plastic pusrods to come, and also for the spark plugs and ignition wires.
The result with push rods made from Evergreen rods, ignition wires/plugs made from wire and a simple rod for the motor mount. The engine crankcase has also been thinned out in the front. Even so, most of this will be invisible.
I also thinned out the cowling, but did not realize that a short wall should prolong the main opening (visible in picture #2). And I drilled out the exhaust (but for nought, since civilian models had the other type of exhaust pipes).
I also thinned out the cowling, but did not realize that a short wall should prolong the main opening (visible in picture #2). And I drilled out the exhaust (but for nought, since civilian models had the other type of exhaust pipes).
One of the rare period picture of the instruments panel. This is the later model with the throttle controls on the central console.
The 2 silver air ducts are quite prominent and will need to be added. The little electric switch box on the side was an option and took different forms apparently. Again, Dora Wings' instruments panel is based on the Proctor and will need to be adapted too.
The 2 silver air ducts are quite prominent and will need to be added. The little electric switch box on the side was an option and took different forms apparently. Again, Dora Wings' instruments panel is based on the Proctor and will need to be adapted too.
The central throttle console and next to it the (optional) variable pitch control for the propeller.
A 1936 sketch of the interior, including interesting details of the seats, doors, rear elbow rests, etc.
The front of the cockpit, with prominent trim wheel on the left. The side pockets and floor controls are quite visible.
One last picture of the cockpit's front, showing variations from one aircraft to the next (elecctric box, varaible pitch control,...). In all images I have seen of the Vega Gull, the two control columns are the same. Again, a modification that must be made to DW's Proctor-based kit.
So, that PE fret (the same across DW's Proctor and Vega Gull kits) is not very useful : flat ignition wires and push rods, the instruments panel must be modified (I removed the left row of dials) and the shelf under it is too thin in PE, so I had to glue it to a sheet of Evergreen to make it closer to scale.
More work on the inside, with extra controls gleaned from the spares box (the trim wheel is too low in the picture, and will need to be moved up). The compass comes from an eduard Fokker Eindecker that had two. I made the air ducts on both sides of the instruments panels with the ball-ends of plastic pieces from a hair brush...
More work on the central throttle console.
And the nearly-completed instruments panel.
The bottom of the instruments panel and its 'shelf', showing how I made the support for the pitch control (also built from spares box parts) and the two small buttons on the other side.
The shelf is narrower than the sides of the coaming but fits just right into the cockpit like that.
The shelf is narrower than the sides of the coaming but fits just right into the cockpit like that.
With careful preparation, the fit of the main parts is quite good and makes for quick assembly (once prepared!) with little to clean up afterwards.
At first I had forgotten to insert the landing light housing inside the wings before gluing them, but it's still possible to insert them afterwards.
At first I had forgotten to insert the landing light housing inside the wings before gluing them, but it's still possible to insert them afterwards.
The engine fits inside the cowling after gluing the fuselage from the rear up to the cockpit (so not the cowling). I thought it would make for a safer build and adjustment than gluing it to one side of the fuselage first.
Again, good fit of fuselage bottom part and cowling front once carefully prepared/tested.
Again, good fit of fuselage bottom part and cowling front once carefully prepared/tested.
I'm not sure why Dora Wings decided to mold the movable part of the wings separately... Since the wings can't be folded without major surgery, it's not useful and takes up a fair amount of time in fitting them properly.
What's more (but that's my mistake), I ended up gluing the bottom part of the piece on the top of the wing... Too late to undo, I will have to live with it.
What's more (but that's my mistake), I ended up gluing the bottom part of the piece on the top of the wing... Too late to undo, I will have to live with it.
On with the wings, rudder, flaps, etc. I wish DW had not designed every single part as a two-piece affair, as if they could not mold two sides at once. It makes for a lot of preparation, adjustment, gluing, and the thickness suffers a bit.
Besides the inaccuracies due to the Proctor/Vega Gull conflation, this would be my main gripe about this kit : it makes it a bit more tedious than it coud be (16 parts are halves of control surfaces that each neeed to be mated cleanly). At least the fit is decent once built up.
Besides the inaccuracies due to the Proctor/Vega Gull conflation, this would be my main gripe about this kit : it makes it a bit more tedious than it coud be (16 parts are halves of control surfaces that each neeed to be mated cleanly). At least the fit is decent once built up.
As a break form mating control surfaces, I started on re-building the front seats. I liked the look of the bucket seats (better molded than many), so I looked around for a base to build new ones from but eventually gave up and sacrificed the kit parts. I filed the bottoms and backs down to a flat surface and added material to give them proper thickness. The backs should be quite rounded at the top, fairly thin and curved a bit.
Cleaning up and grooves in the leather uphostery will be next, as well as a pocket behind the backs.
Cleaning up and grooves in the leather uphostery will be next, as well as a pocket behind the backs.
The seats are done and I tried out a different red tone for them. It's probably too glossy but it will provide a bit of interesting variation inside the cabin once semi-gloss.
Annoying gaps despite a lot of time adapting the parts (too long, too thick) : this is why I wish Dora Wings had molded those parts with the wing.
The wings are now nearly finished, after another 4 or 5 hour session... The flaps need a bit of adjustment and thinning too. The wingtip light plugs are also too thin. But the detail in the mid-wing lights is good (actual lights not glued yet).
I can already tell that gluing the wings to the fuselage will yield a disappointing result, despite much preliminary adjustment.
I can already tell that gluing the wings to the fuselage will yield a disappointing result, despite much preliminary adjustment.
Another example of what to expect : much preliminary work for a decent fit and detail in the end. Don't expect this kit to be a week-end build !
In retrospect, I should have waited to glue the rudder and tailplanes after painting the fuselage because of the two-color scheme.
In retrospect, I should have waited to glue the rudder and tailplanes after painting the fuselage because of the two-color scheme.
How the front looks with cockpit coaming and motor cowling glued, with only basic adjustments needed there.
Detailing the front of the engine is well worth the effort, but don't worry about anything past the second cylinder.
The bottom of the cowling needed a thin strip of Evergreen to fit properly, but that's easy. The exhaust should go in before (its a little thicker than the opening), but that would mean a lot of awkward test-fitting (or gluing it to the panel rather than the motor). Also, painting around itwould be a problem., so I will fit it later somehow.
I made a small electrical box on the side of the instruments panel from a piece cut off from the original PE instruments panel.
Looking at the cabin sidewalls, I now wish I had added a sheet of Evergreen to hide the wing plug. It's more visible than I wish, but perhaps the seats and canopy will hide it enough.
Looking at the cabin sidewalls, I now wish I had added a sheet of Evergreen to hide the wing plug. It's more visible than I wish, but perhaps the seats and canopy will hide it enough.
Well, that Dora Wings PE fret is definitely of little use : the seatbelts are so narrow, they look like they are the wrong scale. I placed them (bottom of picture and on the seat) next to a selection of 1:48 belts from other brands, and it looks like I will have to use something else.
The seats are now finished, with seatbelts (looking more civilian) adapted from the ugly ones in the Italeri Hurricane kit, and the passenger pockets added to the back of the seat (made from lead foil from a wine bottle with a convenient 'fringed' side).
I also decided to raise them a bit, since they are on rails in the Gull.
I also decided to raise them a bit, since they are on rails in the Gull.
All glued in, as well as the front pockets on the side of each seat.
With the trim wheel glued back in, it's nearly complete, besides the control columns (one of which needs to be made to the proper spade type so they are both the same). Then a bit of semi-gloss to tone down the 'leather'.
Making the first spade handle in plastic rod nearly worked but failed when the glue softened it. So I made another one in thin wire, using a very small screwdriver shaft as form.
The resulting cockpit with both proper control sticks.
The landing gear poses no particular problem. The rear wheel needs to be 'detached' a bit from its fork though.
Another problem I had not foreseen, again due to the Proctor/Vega Gull conflation : I always thought I would use the bottom propeller, to match the (optional) variable pitch propeller of the Vega Gull, but Dora Wings made a hub that matches only a wider front cowling for that prop (diameter difference is quite visible). Following the instructions, I used the narrower cowling and now I have a problem. I need to replace this hub with a much narrower one (and very pointy, to match my photos), as I don't think the DW part can be thinned down enough.
Testing and adjusting the fit of the canopy is another lengthy affair. What's more, the parts are not very even and transparency suffers.
With so-so transparency, I considered the idea of keeping one door open, but decided I wanted the kit built sooner and glued them both shut.
I had glued a piece of styrene sheet between the two main parts (behind the light) to help with alignment, but the canopy roof is not flat and the added part got in the way, so I removed it.
I had glued a piece of styrene sheet between the two main parts (behind the light) to help with alignment, but the canopy roof is not flat and the added part got in the way, so I removed it.
I had to think back about the eduard Bf-108 canopy (a beautiful one-piece affair) when lining up, adjusting ang gluing the 6 parts (!) of this canopy... There's room for improvement for Dora Wings there !
Nice detail on the wing landing lights, but poor fit of the main wings (even after much adjustment)... this kind of summarizes what mixed bag this kit is.
I will not blame DW for the large gaps needing putty around the flaps, since I glued them wrong. I can only hope they fit well in their proper place. It's hard to guess.
I will not blame DW for the large gaps needing putty around the flaps, since I glued them wrong. I can only hope they fit well in their proper place. It's hard to guess.
The back of the wing-to-fuselage fit is the worst part, as if the fuselage was short-cast.
The plug for the Proctor air intake is pretty ugly, and the two main bulges must go on a Vega Gull (that part at least is easy).
The plug for the Proctor air intake is pretty ugly, and the two main bulges must go on a Vega Gull (that part at least is easy).
A lot of sanding later... but filler is yet to come. Thankfully the Vega Gull was designed for speed with low drag, so it can all be sanded down.
I had to make plugs for the wing-fuselage gaps. The flaps (extending under the fuselage) will need to be re-scribed.
I had to make plugs for the wing-fuselage gaps. The flaps (extending under the fuselage) will need to be re-scribed.
It's finally loking like the beginning of the end, with a first coat of paint on the silver surfaces, the wing lights in, and the canopy seam sanded down.
Underneath, the flaps needed to be re-engraved after the heavy sanding. No particular problems with the landing gear.
It's only now that I realize what long wings this bird has. It must have helped for the many record raid-flights it flew, like London-Cape Town.
It's only now that I realize what long wings this bird has. It must have helped for the many record raid-flights it flew, like London-Cape Town.
I'm using transparent stretch thread (the kind used to keep your socks up !) to replicate the wires strung through the canopy for curtains. There are 3 across the top windows (pilot and passenger) and the rear side-windows. The 'curtains' are made with thiny folded strips of very thin paper that I coloured in a cute red-pink (the paper did not absorb the red of the marker) that I imagine would have made a nice match to the red interior. These were very fancy machines, after all !
This image of Jean Batten posing in front of her record-flight Gull Six shows interesting details of the cockpit curtains, but also the luggage hatch (it opens vertically on the Vega Gull), and the odd fuel level indicators (?) in the wing root. A bit of detailing to come, I guess...
The pockets in the doors seem to be specific to this aircraft, as I have seen them mostly below the door.
Also interesting : the details of the top light and the gap behind the motor cowling.
Inside the cockpit is a very large extra gas tank for this specific long-range flight.
The pockets in the doors seem to be specific to this aircraft, as I have seen them mostly below the door.
Also interesting : the details of the top light and the gap behind the motor cowling.
Inside the cockpit is a very large extra gas tank for this specific long-range flight.
Well, it took a fair bit of work, but the 6-part canopy is on… Again, a lot of fine-tuning to adjust and glue first the main part, then the windshield. To avoid the finicky puttying, perhaps it’s better to glue the whole canopy together first, then adjust it to the fuselage, but it would have made it harder to place the curtain stringers properly. The instructions certainly aren’t clear either way.
So, now is the time to think about colors. As mentioned regarding the pictures of the real airplane, the fuselage color is underdetermined, but not siver (darker than wings/tailplanes), not red (lighter than the outer band of the Belgian roundel photographed on othochromatic film). Realistically that leaves yellow or a light green, or a light blue. It turns out that turquoise (light blue + green) was the standard color for Percival aircrafts of the period according to the Gull sales brochure (itself printed on turquoise paper), and also I really like the look of the Gull Four of the Brussels Army Museum, so that's what I have decided to go with.
I bought a bottle of Model Color 'Light Turquoise' (70.840) which looked close on the website, but it was a lot darker than needed, so I lightened it with 4 or 5 times its amount in white and light grey-green to get a bit of green hue.
I bought a bottle of Model Color 'Light Turquoise' (70.840) which looked close on the website, but it was a lot darker than needed, so I lightened it with 4 or 5 times its amount in white and light grey-green to get a bit of green hue.
And finally, the first coat of paint on the fuselage. The color is too dark, but since I need to fix up some details on the canopy adjustments, I’ll need a new coat anyway.
A second lighter-colour coat after touch-ups and adding a venturi where it's visible on the plane in the winter of 39-40 (not earlier, which might explain why it's on the oppposite side to the normal cabin venturi on Vega Gulls). The gloss coat is a bit too much and the contrast with the silver of the wings too strong, so I will tone it down with a semi-gloss coat.
Underneath, another venturi is visible, so I added one there too (adapted from the Monogram texan kit, but cut down and hollowed out).
The quality of the decals is quite good. They are thin but solid (I had to move them after they had already settled a bit and they did not break). And I like the mix of matt (codes) and semi-gloss finish (roundels).
The fuselage codes and roundels are quite accurate (not completely in terms of letter shape). Dora Wings probably had access to the first picture in this album...
The fuselage codes and roundels are quite accurate (not completely in terms of letter shape). Dora Wings probably had access to the first picture in this album...
Unfortunately, they must not have the 2nd picture, since the wing roundels (underneath and most likely above too) are very undersized. Whereas the codes and roundels for the fuselage came separately, they are combined for the wing decals. This is doubly unfortunate since having the codes separately would mean the possibility of finishing the aircraft in its civilian scheme.
I have not used any of the stencils since they are for British military ACs, and even the Percival Gull logo on the tail seems to have been erased when this aircraft was repainted and sold to Hansez.
I have not used any of the stencils since they are for British military ACs, and even the Percival Gull logo on the tail seems to have been erased when this aircraft was repainted and sold to Hansez.
I painted the wing tips in red, based on the shades of grey in the pictures and the idea that they were added by the Belgian military for quick identification. I sprayed the wings with gloss varnish to match them with the fuselage. Now the canopy frame must be cleaned up and finished in high gloss metal.
The few remaining building details are nearly done. I made the propeller hub from a 1:72 F-5 jet gasoline tank. The propeller itself looks a bit undersized but I can’t be sure and will live with it.
This particular airplane had a specific hub, which looks a lot like the one on the Mew Gull flown by Chateaubrun in a 1936 race. Maybe he had it installed on his Vega Gull later. The propeller was probably specific too, so I can’t base myself on other AC for either parts.
The exhaust pipe is the proper one for most civilian models: the one with elongated end pipe. I had to cut the parts joinning it to the engine to fit it now that the bottom engine plate is glued (besides the painting issue, gluing it to the engine first seemed like a bad idea, given how vague its placement was in the instructions). It slides in after a bit of thinning out, and I need to adapt the color, so it's not glued yet.
The lower wing antenna mast needs thinning out too. Mine is probably too broad still, but I will wait until I have the proper roundels to glue it.
This particular airplane had a specific hub, which looks a lot like the one on the Mew Gull flown by Chateaubrun in a 1936 race. Maybe he had it installed on his Vega Gull later. The propeller was probably specific too, so I can’t base myself on other AC for either parts.
The exhaust pipe is the proper one for most civilian models: the one with elongated end pipe. I had to cut the parts joinning it to the engine to fit it now that the bottom engine plate is glued (besides the painting issue, gluing it to the engine first seemed like a bad idea, given how vague its placement was in the instructions). It slides in after a bit of thinning out, and I need to adapt the color, so it's not glued yet.
The lower wing antenna mast needs thinning out too. Mine is probably too broad still, but I will wait until I have the proper roundels to glue it.
Very close to the end : the canopy was painted in a very shiny metal finish. The masks provided with the kit were somewhat undersized so a fait bit of cleanup was needed afterwards.
The 'wires' I used for the inner curtains are obviously oversized. And some CA glue touched the window panels while gluing them. I have room for improvement there !
The top position light also shouldn't be so red (I'm not shure it should bered at all). Another thing to do better next time.
The 'wires' I used for the inner curtains are obviously oversized. And some CA glue touched the window panels while gluing them. I have room for improvement there !
The top position light also shouldn't be so red (I'm not shure it should bered at all). Another thing to do better next time.
The interior is not as visible as I wished. The DW transparent parts can definitely improve.
And then, a small speck of dried blue paint got into the cockpit somehow and sticks to one of the panes. I have no idea how that happened since I had not even mixed the paint when I glued the canopy shut (hermetically, I thought).
Also, I must remember not to use Tamiya ultra thin glue when placing transparent parts, the result is less than happy on the front parts...
Will do better next !
And then, a small speck of dried blue paint got into the cockpit somehow and sticks to one of the panes. I have no idea how that happened since I had not even mixed the paint when I glued the canopy shut (hermetically, I thought).
Also, I must remember not to use Tamiya ultra thin glue when placing transparent parts, the result is less than happy on the front parts...
Will do better next !
A few more details added... well, the propeller is hardly a detail ! My spinner looks very long, but so does it in the photos, so I'll stick with it.
I added a small position light under the fuselage, and re-glued the tail-wheel that had broken off (I had thinned it down to a size that seemed reasonably in scale). Given that the aircraft had an orientable tail wheel, it could have come as a separate part in the kit.
Now the main part that remains it to find roundels of the right size for the wings (top and bottom). I think I need (pre-war type) 22mm roundels, and wonder where I could get them. Maybe a set for Gladiators, or Mk.1 Hurricanes ? If anyone can confirm that the size would match, that would be great.
Comentários
28 5 January 2022, 12:38
Boris BThank you all. I always think my next build will be a simple, quick one, and then the reality... I mean the details kick in ! But I do enjoy the pre-build research, for sure. I get to learn so much about the particular aircraft's history, but also the type and aeronautics in general too.
So then, that has to find its way into the details of the build. Plus, I enjoy finding solutions for whatever is not (correct) in the box.
So, I always dream of that perfect out-of-the-box build, but it's quite unlikely indeed... especially with the aircrafts/period I prefer.
9 January 2022, 11:01
Robert PodkońskiIt is called AMS (Advanced Modeller's Syndrome) Boris 😉 Even thinking of myself as a mediocre skilled one I know this all well 😄 And I agree that the research is an important part of fun here. (if you want to show the progress of your build there is a functionality in the Album "use the last photo" as the main one - just a suggestion...)
9 January 2022, 14:49
Gianluca ManisseroLooking forward to this project, I've always wanted to get one of these Kits and I'm curious to see how everything will fit.
9 January 2022, 18:59
David R. MeizosoI agree with Boris' point of view, happens to me too.
Following this build with delight!
22 January 2022, 14:40
Boris BThanks for your envouraging comments!
I have to say that I am growing weary of the limits of the kit, even though I know the result should be fine in the end, so I keep with it.
It's a good thing the newer Dora Wings kits seem to improve, as I like their focus very much.
22 January 2022, 14:45
Boris BThanks for following this long build… And yes, it makes for quite a colorful aircraft… My eyes are still getting used to that blue shade !
12 February 2022, 21:42
Boris BThanks Alex. I'm nearing the end of the build, with only small details to add. There's definitely a few wrong choices on my part that will affect the result and if the build had been less tedious in some parts, I may have put in the energy to improve some more details, but I'll take the blame : there are no bad kits, just lazy builders, as they say 😉
19 February 2022, 10:24
Boris BWell, I was thinking about the people at Dora Wings in the Ukraine today, so posted a few more pictures as a form of hommage. Let's hope they come out of this mostly unaffected !
24 February 2022, 23:04
ForestFanVery nice! Agree about your comments re Ukraine, hopefully all remain safe and things can get back to normal soon
25 February 2022, 06:24
Boris BThank you ! I like colourful planes, but this one pushes the limits. As I explained in the picture comments, the colour of the actual plane is unknown and difficult to ascertain from B&W pictures, but among the possible choices, I went for the Percival standard 'turquoise blue', also because I like it on the Brussels Air Museum Gull Four aircraft (it's two-tone Turquoise Blue / Dark Dlue, and red interior). The Belgian military roundels and wing tips add yet another layer of colours. It's not exactly gaudy yet, but it's a fine line 😉
25 February 2022, 11:51
Alec KI like this build very much Boris. Well done. I share your sentiments regarding Ukraine, what a tragedy.
25 February 2022, 12:37
Boris BThanks Alec ! It's particularly meaningful from you. I take it as an envouragement to improve on the weak parts on the next build.
25 February 2022, 18:50
Boris BThanks! I have marked the build as complete for the moment. I still need to find 22mm. pre-war Belgian roundels for the wings, but that may take a while. If anybody has suggestions, maybe from a prewar set for Gladiators or Hurricanes, let me know.
27 February 2022, 17:13
Album info
Here are some images of my build of the 1:48 Percival Vega Gull by Dora Wings, as well as some of the period documents I used to improve it.
Unfortunately, I must say, the kit is essentially a modification of their Percival Proctor kit, so a number of (mostly internal) details must be modified. I hope re-boxing different versions of an aircraft and only adapting them minimally is not a general trend in Dora Wings' kits, as I have high hopes for the brand.
Overall the detail level is fine and the fit ok, but a fair bit of preparation has to go into many parts to get there. Also, the kit could be simplified in a few areas for an easier build and better result. I found the build a bit tedious after adjusting so many parts that could have been molded together (control surfaces, canopy) and ended up avoiding extra steps to improve detailing. The PE fret is not very useful, the masks are somewhat undersized, but the decals are fine, if not entirely accurate. Instructions are also fairly vague.
Looking at Dora Wings' latest kits, like the Curtiss CW 21, the molding quality and engineering seem to have improved overall, so that's good !
