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45 | 26. April, 18:57
Paint work and weathering look very good! I think this model deserves close up pictures.
27. April, 08:51
Alec K
Looks great indeed 👍
6. May, 00:13
One sharp looking model. Looks like 1/48 scale! And they say that Vallejo paints are no good?
Maybe I should try them also. With what paint did you prime your model? Or did you put on the Vallejo paint directly?
6. May, 02:37
Dave Flitton
Really nice finish!
6. May, 04:36
R VG. Actually, with this Corsair, I didn't prime. Rather, I used the 71.109 blue grey as the "primer" , layering on thinly all over (using my airbrush).

Sometimes I use Vallejo model air primer with the model air paints. Other times, I use Tamiya spray can enamel "fine surface primer", but I have to do that outdoors, so it's not a wintertime option.

I've come to really like the Vallejo Model Air for the large surfaces. I use Vallejo "airbrush flow improver"; it's an absolute necessity. Furthermore, I increase the airbrush pressure with the Vallejo. It's counterintuitive, but the finish comes out much better. I don't remember what modeling video or forum I learned that in, but it has really helped.

Clear finish on this F4U-1 is Tamiya X-35 semi-gloss clear. I always use Tamiya or Testors clear coats, though I suppose with Testors out of business, that'll soon no longer be an option.

Tamiya panel line accent color was used for panel lines and also to make the details stand out in cockpit and wheel wells.

Gun smoke and exhaust stains are crushed pastels dry brushed on right before the clear coat application. Black for guns. Brown and black for exhaust.

The exception to all this is metallic. I don't like Vallejo metallics, because they don't look very metallic. When I spray metallic, I use the primer called for by the paint. My current favorite is AK Xtreme Metal.

Oops, I just wrote a book 😉
6. May, 13:25
Patrick Hagelstein
I agree, this looks very good! I like that you did the research to get to the salmon primer in the empennage. A lot of modelers just slap some zinc-chromate on without ever checking if their subject had that or not. Kudos for that! 🙂
6. May, 16:40
Thank you for the very useful information. I try to get away from enamel paints and use something less toxic. Lifecolor and Vallejo would be just that. I don't have the possibility for good ventilation in the attic with only a small window. But as I was afraid, many people finish their models with Tamiya clears, either gloss or semi-gloss. (Very fitting finish for airplanes I think.) Now their must be a reason for that. Any way I have about 10 projects I want to finish with enamels and then I give Vallejo and finishing it with Tamiya, a try.
6. May, 18:41
Christian Bruer
Very well done, sharp work and very nice paintjob 👍
6. May, 19:49
Ah yes, the research. I have the Tamiya "How to Build..." book for this bird. I'll put a photo of the cover in the album. It's got all the salmon primer a oh so much more info. It's an excellent resource.
11. May, 12:42
Book cover is in the album now.
11. May, 12:46
David Januska
Nice job on nice bird 😉. Perfect result and nice paint job👍.
11. May, 14:15
Patrick Hagelstein
Cool! Thanks for that book cover! Something to go look for. 👍
11. May, 18:56
Daniel Klink
Very impressive. Fantastic subtle weathering and overall paintjob Congrats 👍
11. May, 19:00
Great job. What PSI do you shoot Vallejo Air at? Do you have lots of dry tip?
11. May, 20:15
10-15 PSI for big areas, but I test beforehand on the inside of the spray booth. Also, I use the vallejo airbrush flow improver. That is the key to getting good finish and no dry tip. Drying and curing time is a little longer, but that's what the hair dryer is for.
12. May, 17:26
Hmmm odd. I spray at the same PSI and also use Vallejo Flow Improver, yet dry tips pop up constantly. What needle size are you using? How fine of lines do you spray? What is your exact mixing ratio for Model Air with thinner and flow improver?
13. May, 13:08
I spray cleaner through the airbrush first, then pure flow improver. Then I mix the improver and model air paint at least 2:10 flow improver😛aint straight into the cup on the airbrush and stir with a toothpick to avoid bubbles. I say at least, because I put in 3:10 fi😛aint in the mix. All this straight from the droppers. All measurements are in "drops". For example of a load in the airbrush: 2:10, 3:10, 2:10. That's a full cup for my Master brand brush. Maybe that's the secret too: small batches. It seems to be more than enough for 1:72 scale.

lines about 1 cm. I don't know what needle size. I just use the one that cam with the airbrush. I sometimes preemptively clean the tip using a Q-tip soaked in the vallejo cleaner (not the flow improver.
13. May, 15:56
So when you say 2:10 flow improver, do you mean 2 drops flow improver to 10 drops paint, or the other way around? What airbrush do you use?

Thank you for the help, I'm also a 1/72 modeler, it's not often I find people who use VMA without problems
13. May, 17:00
John Thomas
Very nice work
13. May, 17:20
@ OttonvonLindberg. Yes, 2:10 is 2 Fl. Imp. : 10 Vallejo Model Air. Airbrush is "Master" brand.

Also, lots of thin layers. Otherwise it blobs and pools with all the pressure and flow improver. I like the consistency of the finish.
13. May, 19:02
Johan van Meerloo
great detail for 1/72
13. May, 19:05
Sorry for all the questions, just one more: do you not use any vallejo airbrush thinner?
13. May, 20:03
I only use the thinner (airbrush cleaner) to clean the brush at the end (or occasionally the tip), but I don't mix it into the paint. I only use the flow improver to thin the paint, if you will.
16. May, 22:39


1:72 Vought F4U-1 Bird Cage Corsair (Tamiya 60774)1:72 WWII PILOTS (Hasegawa 35008)
Vought F4U-1 Corsair
US Military US Marine Corps Aviation (1912-now)
VMF-124 Whistling Death 13 (Lt. Kenneth Ambrose Walsh)
August 1943 - Munda, New Georgia SB (Result: 21)
Blue-grey, Light grey

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