Minibase Su-33 Red 80 WIP

The 3D printed pilot is orange with mats. The mats help when you locate the figure accurately on the seat. Even if you install all rudder pedal and their links inside the cockpit, they fit just fine. All you need is patience! All part will fall into place accurately. 

This is the greatest detail you can achieve with injected parts if you want to build a K36 ejection seat nowadays  

 

 

Mr. AN Ran is the supervisor of the Minibase Su-33 project. I feel so honored that he sent me a copy from Shijiazhuang, and this is his signature. We refer to him as '汤毛'(tang mao) in Chinese🙂 

Very interesting cartoon showing the assembly of a Minibase Su-33 aircraft model. Illustrated by Mr. DU Renjie who lives and works in Tianjin 

This 3D printed pilot was intended for the Minibase 8002 Su-27K kit, but Tang Mao (汤毛) managed to get one for me. I would like to extend my sincere gratitude toward him and Mr. XUE Jialiang (the boss of Minibase model store) for the delicate kit. I airbrushed the mat and ejection seat black, and then hand brushed the pilot figure with Tamiya Acrylics and Mr. Color solvent based paint. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Mr. Color remained as my major paint brand so I loaded my magazines with some new munitions:-p 

 

 

 

Decals applied. Seat. There are just a lot of stencils on the K-36D ejection seat, bringing up detail levels up. I am sure this would be one of the most challenging build in my modeling career, but all the efforts worth it. 

back view of painted and decaled seat 

I used the smallest flat brush to paint the figure. The procedure starts with the orange flight suit, followed by painting the seat belts and locks. The head was painted in the last step. I started with the face of the pilot, and then the helmet  

Minibase has printed decals for all control panels. Here comes the decals on the side panels. I placed the decals flat over the panel, since the size fits only if I let the decal float over all push buttons. Mr. Mark Setter and Mark Softer are used to enhance the adhesive and solute the decals. Once the decals are partially melt, I used a small modeling knife to slice the decal apart and press each part to make them fit the recess and engraved details. A thin layer of flat coat was applied in the last step.

Some of you may notice that there are mechanical links in the front of the cockpit, yes they are the rudder/brake padel linkage. Although they will not be seen once the cockpit is closed, they represent the top level of details that 48th scale modern aircraft models can achieve nowadays.  

 

The details of main control panels are also brought out with kit decals. Mr. Mark Setter and Mark Softer are extensively used on the panel. You may need a knife to force the decals into the engraved parts to make them fit perfectly 

Main components put together 

 

The details are far better than that of any G.W. H. Flanker kit 

 

This picture depicts the mock up of nose landing gear bay. Hydraulic lines and valves are depicted with multiple small parts 

 

 

 

Side walls of nose landing gear bay painted 

Side wall of nose gear bay and pressure refueling port 

 

 

 

nose gear bay assembled 

 

 

there are just plenty of valves and pipelines on the side walls of nose gear bay 

Minibase Su-33 featured unprecidented detail as it provided air data probes in the air intakes and at the entry of AL-31F3 low pressure stages. Some of the probes were made of PE and I failed to glue them in place. I cut and glued some plastic cards to replace them 

 

 

This is how I attach the pressure probes to the entry stage of engine. I drilled a hole at the beginning and then glued the probe to the hole. 

Time to move the the intake trunks 

Removing excessive plastic with Wave Carving Knife.  

 

 

Intake trunks: before and after 

 

Air pressure probes inside of each intake trunk. I had to install them before closing the trunk halves, so I had to leave the assembly seams un-attended 

The make up of air intake trunks were complicated. One had better mark them before assembly 

 

 

 

 

 

Most of the subtle parts are on sprue J, K, L. One has to be very very careful when removing parts from the sprues. Finding missing parts on desk or floor is nearly impossible! 

Auxiliary air intake consists of a movable flap and metal filter mesh. The mesh is painted gun chrome and the flap is painted with Color A (the first mixture given in Minibase instruction) 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

There is a single air data probe inside the left air intake trunk, near the entry. The part number is J65. I will talk about how to install it on the following pages 

There are two J65 parts, but only one is needed. It should be installed inside port air intake 

I drilled a hole from outside. Yet the instruction did not provide concrete position where I should install it. Watch next page... 

Yes, the air data probe should be on the other side of drilled panel. You have to drill from outside since there is no work space from inside.  

 

Upper part of main landing gear bay should be painted bright red. I used Mr. Color C3 red 

 

This is not a thirt party landing gear! It is 3d-printed and developed in co-operation with Minibase. Also labelled as Minibase product.  

 

 

 

There two types of 3d-printed detail upgrade sets ( both are labelled as Minibase 2001). Normally the upgrade set are released with on-the-ground landing gear legs (compressed shock absorber struts), but my set was customized made with unloaded struts 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hydraulic lines on the main wheel bay walls. Painted by hand 

US Navy counterpart: F/A-18F SD223 from VX-23 Salty Dogs. This is my first try with in-flight pose with landing gear down and locked, I started that project 5 years ago and the build lasted 5 months approximately 

So I started painting main wheel bays as I airbrushed the walls with gloss red (Mr. Color C3) 

 

Electric wire bundles. Painted by hand with Mr. Color paint. 

 

 

 

 

The fitting was quite good for a new Chinese manufacturer, yet not so good as classical Janpanese manufacturers such as Tamiya. I decided to press parts in position and then went with thinned glue such as Mr. Hobby MR. Cement S. 

 

 

 

 

Electric wire bundles and hydraulic components on the walls of main wheel bays 

 

 

Electric wire clusters 

The wheel bay were painted red and the bays which hold main landing gear legs were painted light gray. (referred as Color D in the instruction book) 

Hydrulic lines painted chrome silver 

I dont think the yellow lines are of hydraulic system, what do they belong to? Fuel systems? Pneumatic Systems? Really not easy to install
 

This one is the most difficult to instal. I glued side 1 from inside, and then adjusted it quickly to make side 2 to the correct position 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Refueling panel painted. Black panel, refuel selector switch, high level indication light and defueling valve indicator light (orange) painted 

Assembly of Su-33 port inboard trailing edge flaps. The Su-33 is a carrier borne air superiority fighter that features enhanced high lift devices. The #minibase kit provided abundant details and options to depict the slotted flap systems of the aircraft.

As for modeling. One have to check out the instructions that we do not follow a A-B-C-D-E-F-G-H-I-J-K-L procedure. In fact step A, D, G and J depicts the construction of flap retracted option, while step B, E, H and K shows how to build a half flap configuration. Step C, F, I and L leads us the way when we build full flap position.

When building a flap down position, do check the instructions carefully to cut and attach right parts. Do align the hinges on flaps and link mechanisms to make a correct assembly  

 

Assembly of Su-33 port inboard trailing edge flaps. The Su-33 is a carrier borne air superiority fighter that features enhanced high lift devices. The #minibase kit provided abundant details and options to depict the slotted flap systems of the aircraft.

As for modeling. One have to check out the instructions that we do not follow a A-B-C-D-E-F-G-H-I-J-K-L procedure. In fact step A, D, G and J depicts the construction of flap retracted option, while step B, E, H and K shows how to build a half flap configuration. Step C, F, I and L leads us the way when we build full flap position.

When building a flap down position, do check the instructions carefully to cut and attach right parts. Do align the hinges on flaps and link mechanisms to make a correct assembly  

 

 

 

 

Now the starboard piece comes. Inboard trailing edge flap of Sukhoi Su-33 Flanker-D air superiority fighter.

I glued the Photo-Etched parts with #altecosuperglue Alteco Superglue. There is a mistake in the #minibase #su33 instructions (step F of trailing edge high lift devices), which I have shown in this photo. The model is quite complicated so the correct number of parts would be very important for a decent build. Wrong numbers may lead to mid-alignment and asymmetrical flaps🙁

Happy modeling!
 

Now the starboard piece comes. Inboard trailing edge flap of Sukhoi Su-33 Flanker-D air superiority fighter.

 

Now the starboard piece comes. Inboard trailing edge flap of Sukhoi Su-33 Flanker-D air superiority fighter.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Outboard trailing edge flaps assembled. There are some mistakes in the #minibase instructions. As I have pointed out in this and next photo, one should be careful cutting and attaching those tiny parts.

Now assembly work of the slotted flaps are complete. Amazing details.

My friends told me that the mistakes are removed in instruction sheets for Minibase 8002 Su-27K kit. So the corrections are just for Minibase 8001 Su-33 kits.
#minibase #su33 #seaflanker #miniature #flightcontrol #trailingedgeflaps #slottedflap #aviation #scalemodel #scale148 #outboardflaps 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Today I started test fitting of the #minibase Su-33 airframe with wings, ailerons and canards. Most of the parts fitted well with each other. One should notice the deflection angle of trailing edge flaps. The Su-33 flaps has their inboard and outboard edges canted outward. So don’t worry if you feel uncomfortable with the gap between the trailing edges and side of fuselage. I found photos of Su-33’s Chinese naval cousin the J-15 Flying Shark, as to make sure the flaps are mounted right.

When compared with the legendary Grumman F-14D Tomcat, the Su-33 is very large, very large. The decks of aircraft carriers are never large enough for these monsters , so is my cupboard? 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Trying out of a combination of arcylic rod and stainless steel tube, so as to 'eliminate' the supporting pole rather than using photoshop technique 

Trying out with F-14D, indoors 

 

 

Trying out with MiG-31BS, indoors 

Trying out with MiG-31BS, outdoors 

Adding support tube in the aft fuselage of the Minibase Su-33 

The cards and sprues will take the bending force inside the fuselage 

Trying out on a steel pole, 3mm outer diameter 

As you can see, the transparent pole stands next to the steel tube. This is the alternative support. 

The support tube goes into the fuselage with a little offset to the left. As to yield space to tunnel loaded R-27ER long range AAMs 

 

Test fitting with the transparent pole with a single 3D printed unloaded main landing gear strut. 

Test fitting with the transparent pole with a single 3D printed unloaded main landing gear strut. This pole is compatible with all my previous in flight projects except for the Hasegawa F/A-18F VX-23 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This beautifully painted Su-33 is not my model! It belongs to one of my friends. He made a dual build, yes two Minibase Su-33s simutaneously! I edited his photo and placed it along with my F-14D. wish it would be what my own version would look like! 

Finally I managed to close the fuselage halves without using masking tape. I dry fitted a lot and sanded the the areas where the base of cockpit contacts the top of nose gear bay. I used thinned glue to join the upper and lower part of fuselage. Press the parts with my finger, and then applied Mr. Cement S (a thinned modeling glue from Gunze) 

I decided to replace the axis of canards with 1mm diameter steel tube. With this modification, I can install the canards in the final phase. Putting too many parts together (as guided by the instruction book) would bring a lot of trouble when you fill and sand.  

The cabin section comes together nicely 

I had to install inboard flaps since their hinges are planted deep inside the wing. Sure this would bring some trouble when I clean up the aft fuselage and paint 

There is a larger misfit outboard of starboard nacelle, but I am sure this would not bring about too much trouble when I fill and sand it 

 

As i am making a wing-spread configuration, I choose to follow the wing spread option in the instruction sheet. In this configuration you need only to fit a simplified version of wing hinge panel when you close the upper and lower wing halves
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The cockpit section near complete. Note the small parts to the side of ejection seat which is painted gold. This is the last part I added to cockpit before I attach it to the upper fuselage half 

As stated in the next photo. The fitting problem is shifted to left and right side of forward fuselage, rather than top and bottom. This makes sanding work less. I am going to re-scribe the panel lines while sanding. 

A little tip to address the fitting between radome and cockpit section. Use a small sprue as support inside the radome, as to make the cross section more oval, so you can get a better fit on top and bottom of this oval, while the fitting of left and right side are easier to deal with... 

 

a small piece of thin plastic is added to the plug for port vertical stabilizer , as to make the dry fitting easier 

looks like the seam is still too wide, I have to deal with it later on 

The fitting problem is shifted to left and right side of forward fuselage, rather than top and bottom. This makes sanding work less. I am going to re-scribe the panel lines while sanding. 

 

 

Test fiting started as I wanted to make sure everything come together without major fitting issues 

 

The axis of canard is replaced with 1mm diameter steel tube. The canards would be installed prior to assembly of fuselage halves according to the instruction book, which would be inconvenient in later steps 

 

No interference between windshield and HUD frames, good 

 

Note the dihedral angle of the canards 

 

I glued the wings, but with no glue on hinges of ailerons or trailing edge flaps. This make it easier to paint camouflage since the ailerons and flaps can still move 

Also added are the horizontal stabilizers. I modified their axes so I am able to install them at very final steps 

 

 

I used a carve knife to remove the steps on the axis . The steps were meant to restrict the lateral position of horizontal stabilizers, but one must install them before closing fuselage halves. 

3D printed landing gears and plastic wheels added. This are the last pieces added during the mock up.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

Started working with the 3D printed landing gears. This is the nose gear shock strut and drag strut. I cleaned up the support sprues. There is a steel rod in the package, but I did not notice it. Here I inserted a longer steel tube from my stash 

the drag strut can be connected to shock strut with copper wires, here I used a 0.5mm diameter piece 

Dry fitting with mud guard and twin nose wheels 

 

 

As for main gear struts, there are some differences with the wiring and hydraulic lines between the port and starboard gear  

Starboard main gear strut and side stay while wheel brake discs 

notice the tow point underneath the main gear strut, this part is extremely vulnaerbale when modelers removing support. I mistook them for supporting sprues and snapped them off too. Fortunately, the J part of the kit has a pair of spare part on it. 

Notice the tow connector right beneath the shock strut. And the plugs on top of the gear strut are quite fragile, one should be carefull when installing the gear struts. The 3D printed parts replace the plastic parts totally. If you want to install these detail up part, do remember not to install plastic gear struts and plastic side strut lock mechanisms 

Started painting nose and main landing gear struts. Mr. Color SM206 Chrome Silver comes first. 

The inner tubes are shiny, choosing SM206 is a good idea! 

 

Mask up the mirror sections of shock absorber tubes. Time to apply the color D, a mixture of 65% of Mr.Color 337 and 35% of Mr. Color 107 

Looks good 

Following this, there would be painting of case of wheel brake actuators, hydraulic lines and electric wires  

 

 

 

Torsion links of main gear struts are painted with gun metal. Free hand. 

 

 

 

Free hand painting: Wheel brake actuator cases. Green with a little touch of flat black 

Side stay of nose gear strut is also painted. the landing gear strut was printed in one piece, painting the inboard side of side stays was difficult! Fine hand brushes were needed! 

 

Following the wheel brake piston cases were the hydraulic lines and electric wire bundles. Brushed by free hand 

 

 

 

 

This is the newly painted nose landing gear strut with drag strut. Not completed yet, but I selected to paint the hydraulic lines, electric wires, landing signal lights, taxiing lights to bring up the detail as an early reveal. 

I mainly used Mr.Color to paint the details, with some fine hand brushes. 

 

Carrier landing signal lights: from top to bottom they are clear orange, clear green and clear red 

 

 

Nose and main gear struts in the storage case. There are still some details to paint, but now they look like 90% complete 

 

Painting of tyres and wheels. I filled and sanded the seams between halves of tyres, so I closed the tyres before painting the wheels. I airbrushed the tyres first, with matt black mixed with some gray paint. 100% black is absolutely not recommended! No tyres look pure black under the sun 

Then I masked up the tyres. Pressed the masking tape hard to stick to the surface of wheels as to reveal the edge of wheel rims. I used a modeling knife to cut along the rim and removed the mask over the wheels. Now it is time to paint the wheels  

Tamiya acrylic paint are used. Some Grass Green mixed with a drop or two of flat black. I used this combination with my wheel brake piston case, as to eliminate the color difference, I sticked to the some combination when painting wheels 

 

Masking tape removed 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Several spots needed to be cleaned and fixed before painting. The first being the radome. 

The right side of nose looked ok when filled and sanded 

Inside of the canopy, there is a frame where the modulated air tubes are located. It was not really easy to install these small parts. Anyway, I managed to fix it 

The fitting between a closed airbrake and the top of fuselage was not perfect. I tried to fill and sand it. 

 

So was the tail boom. It needed some care. 

As for the left side of the nose. It took more time sanding and re-scribing panel lines. Now it looks ok