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Mark Norfolk (mnorfolk49)



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Mark Norfolk added a new photoalbum.
42 images
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Updated: August 9, 2019
21. July at 15:38:29 Share
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Łukasz Gliński Knife blade matters as well in case of cutting the masks, my recommendation is a curved one.
4. August at 08:44:22
Mark Norfolk Thanks Lukasz. I'll be sure to dig out a curved blade. Andy, no issues at all except my trials with the cockpit glass. I was concerned about the wheels/ struts into the wings but that went very well. Most awkward fits are the open wheel covers - edges caught the housing, meaning they didn't all go that easily onto the pins. I actually broke one with the pressure I was applying so - just take it easy! Otherwise kit goes together very very nicely. Would happily make again with a different paint job. :)
4. August at 11:08:30
Patrick Hagelstein Good one Łukasz! A curved doesn't have the risk of pulling away the tape if the blade gets accidentally caught. Set aside a brand new blade for cockpit masking. If you need the curved blade for something else, just switch them out so you keep one decimated to cockpit masking.
4. August at 15:28:13
Mark Norfolk Well, things have gone - largely - downhill. After decals did a gloss coat and then the panel line wash. Massive lessons: one gloss coat not enough. Left paint job very streaky, all sorts of staining in one wing decal and holes in one fuselage decal. Glossed again which partly rescued the staining effect: now the underside is ok (ish) but the top is not. Very disappointed given how pleased I'd been up to decals. Still - lesson time! Suck it up and move on. The Rob Taurus glass though - reasons to smile again. Cut out and sanded / trimmed to size ok, gloss coated, taped uk hard edges, maskol for couple of internal areas and painted. Much happier with approach, taping outcome and hopeful for results. S

So lessons?

Two gloss coats over pre washes.
Be more precise re:where I put the wash so minimising need to wipe with thinners.
Follow ALL those tips re: cockpit glass, plus prepare separately and add last - for me major lesson is don't prime with non enamels as can't correct it chemically.
Above all - patience.

Pondering nose glass replacement as thinners have trashed quality of it.
8. August at 16:17:55
Patrick Hagelstein What happened with that decal? Did tape lift that decal off?
8. August at 16:18:37
Mark Norfolk Came off when I used thinners to remove panel wash. One of things that made me realise one glass coat insufficient and to be more precise with wash to minimise need to clean up!!
8. August at 16:20:03
8. August at 19:16:13
Mark Norfolk tis a little but hey ho! It will all come together at some point just not yet! :) I got lots to learn!
8. August at 20:16:46
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August 3, 2019

Mark Norfolk added a new photoalbum.
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Updated: July 4, 2019
24. June at 18:57:57 Share
Mark Norfolk Main bodies together: hope that was wise re: painting. Should I fill the couple of tiny joint gaps? Any recommendations / advice appreciated.
24. June at 19:00:35
Rui S Well i would say that gaps are unrealistc, so they should not be visible. At least whem the figure is in the up right position.
If very small they Will be filled with a good drop of Paint. ;)
24. June at 20:47:58
Mark Norfolk Thanks Rui :) I like your thinking about the figures being upright.
25. June at 04:11:56
Mark Norfolk So troops filled (thanks Rui!), mounted in / on my home made skewer holder and primed. Sadly proud of the adapted block of wood :) Hats off to Andreas Koziol for the inspiration with his cat scratcher adaptation.
4. July at 14:10:25
Rui S Nice progress Mark.
You can also use styro foam to stick what you want. That's what o use.
7. July at 17:58:22
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August 2, 2019

Mark Norfolk wants this item
1:35 Sherman VC Firefly (Tamiya 25174)
Sherman VC Firefly (w/6 figures)
Tamiya 1:35
2014 | Changed parts
2. August at 11:41:00 Share
2. August at 17:33:42
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July 27, 2019

Mark Norfolk added a new photoalbum.
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Updated: July 25, 2019
27. June at 19:21:35 Share
View full thread (45 Comments)
Stephan Ryll Very nice build
27. July at 07:25:25
Guy Rump Nice build :)
27. July at 09:18:16
Mark Norfolk Thanks Alec, Stephan and Guy - had a long hard look at i this morning after 24 hours and this is what I have learnt / will try next time:

Dry fit lots - that cockpit is all wrong
Fill and sand fuselage before adding wings
Don't be scared of filler
Use a proper primer
Plan your stage builds
Varnish coats work
But fewer initial gloss coats - 2 max
Use multiple wash coats - little pigment in them
Care with gloss on glass - follow Patrick's tips
Masking rocks
Save minor parts to the end - they get busted otherwise!
Actually I like enamel paint
But thin it lightly, not a lot
Decent brushes matter - AK looking good.

Carrying these forward to the Mosquito hopefully - today have had to do battle with the cockpit glass already!
27. July at 13:34:37
Cristian Bordina Great job Mark !!!
27. July at 15:05:51
Gordon Sørensen Nice lookung Typhoon, Mark!
27. July at 15:54:35
Patrick Hagelstein I like the "follow Patrick's tips" part! :D ;)
27. July at 16:19:52
Mark Norfolk Done it Patrick - worked a treat on my mosquito cockpit glass! :)
27. July at 17:27:48
27. July at 19:12:06
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July 23, 2019

Mark Norfolk owns this item
23. July at 11:26:45 Share
Mark Norfolk Very impressed with this brush. Just used on a gloss coat - doesn't hold much product so simpler for rookies like me to get it right!
23. July at 20:28:20
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July 21, 2019

Mark Norfolk added a new project.
1:72 De Havilland Mosquito B Mk.IV/PR Mk.IV (Tamiya 60753)
De Havilland DH 98 Mosquito B Mk.IV
GB Military Royal Air Force (1918-now)
105 Sqn. DZ367, GB-J | Horsham St Faith | Dark Green, Ocean grey, Medium Sea grey
21. July at 15:27:15 Share

July 10, 2019

Mark Norfolk
Query about thinning (Humbrol) enamel paint. I have been using Humbrol brand thinner but it really stinks. I have seen a video on you tube suggesting acetone but also found a product called ‘Bob Ross odourless thinner’. Does anyone have experience with either or any other (preferably not very smelly!) alternative? The suggestion with acetone is it lengthens an already has long dry time!
9. July at 20:08:02 Share
Augie Acetone will also make it very chemically active and likely to eat the plasitc.
Bob Ross (Happy little accidents) odourless thinner is for oil paints and not enamels.

You can try VMS thinners for enamels, but as I said in my previous mileage varies, for humbrol as it stands, their stuff does work best sadly.

Other option is to move in to acrylics which are generally less odour too.
9. July at 20:20:03
wilky I find the smell of acrylic paint worse.
Maybe it's because of sucking down enamel fumes from childhood that I don't really notice them now
9. July at 20:29:30
Mark Norfolk Thanks Augie & Wilky - I have bought a few acrylics but the vast bulk of my paints are enamels (& to be fair in good nick given they have sat unused for nearly 20 years :) ). I just really notice the smell of Humbrol thinners and wondered, so started exploring. Humbrol it is: fan on and window open!
10. July at 05:39:47
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June 26, 2019

Mark Norfolk
So folks, the vast majority of my paints are Humbrol enamel. I have purchased a few Vallejo and one Tamiya acrylic and I'm persuaded of the benefits of an airbrush - something to save for. (For now I will have to brush them on: one thing I have learnt in recent weeks is why my attempts to brush paint Tamiya Acrylics failed so abysmally 30 years ago!). What I am interested in though is any views on the quality difference between Humbrol and Tamiya enamels. I wasn't fussed until I found the latter readily available on ebay and it got me to wondering. Anyone with experience of both have a view?
25. June at 13:26:48 Share
Olivier 30 years ago acrylics were not so frequent. Humbrol enamels used to be the reference in the old world.
Nowadays I enjoy the AK real colour range but they are acrylics.
25. June at 17:16:28
Augie So I may as well wade in here, as I am known as a brush painter only and my take on the brands.

1) Humbrol (enamels)
Currently, humbrols are a mixed bag quality wise when it comes to brush-ability, they are having in my opinion huge quality issues which means some pots will arrive and the paint is so thick, you can invert the can once opened and the paint does not drip! It thins poorly with 3rd party thinners but fairly well with humbrol own brand. Older Humbrols are still my go to paint and with the right brush and patience will go down without brush marks.


Again they have issues with newer batches, not quite as thick but really do not seem to thin well unless thinking with a mix of iso pro acohol and vms thinners. Older batches cover well with out masses of fuss.

2) Tamyia (Acrylics)

I find with these they need thinning with X-20 thinners when brushing else they dry very quickly. A few drops of VMS Slow-mo makes them easy enough to work with. Another factor with these is room temperature anything over about 22 room temp and unless you thin excessively then they are hard work.

3) Vallejo (Acrylics)

Used a few of these and have never really had to do anything with them to brush with. They just work.

4) Hataka (Acrylic)

I've used the "brush" and "airbrush" ones of these and find again they just work with brush, minimal fuss but to my mind expensive.

5) Revell (Both)

Revell enamels, I find are quick thick and need thinning down with own brand thinners to get a nice consistent smooth finish. They don't have the quite the same issues with 3rd party thinners, they react well to humbrol thinners, but poorly to VMS thinners.


I quite like them, react well to VMS thinners and go on nice and smooth without too much fuss.
25. June at 17:50:59
Mark Norfolk Thanks Augie - that's very helpful & informative. I have found what you describe with Humbrol - not as extreme but yes some thicker, some thinner. Loads for me to take on board though - thank you so much.
25. June at 19:07:18
Mark Norfolk Olivier - please excuse my ignorance but what does AK stand for? I have not heard of that brand. Thanks.
25. June at 19:09:42
Derek Huggett @ Augie - Pearls of wisdom from the High Priestess of the Hairy Stick! I have found very similar results over the years. Very useful views/comments for those of us who still don't 'blow' our finishes! :)
25. June at 19:45:46
Augie Welcome mark, glad to help
Derek, its nice to see others who still dont rely on blow ;)
25. June at 20:55:35
Mark Norfolk Thanks Olivier! :)
26. June at 05:18:26
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June 25, 2019

Mark Norfolk started this item
1:35 Machine Gun Troops (Tamiya MM138)
Machine Gun Troops (Infantry)
Tamiya 1:35
MM138 (38)
1974 | New tool
24. June at 18:49:30 Share
Mark Norfolk Not sure when I purchased it but price sticker (!) says £2.50: probably bought about 20-25 years ago. Some flash along seams to remove but otherwise main soldier bodies put together tonight. Seemed wisest in terms of painting figures, leaving all guns, equipment & helmets on the spruce. Have I done the right thing? There are a couple of joints with minor gaps - would people advise I fill them?
24. June at 18:53:46
Holger Kranich Hi Mark,
you are entering the heavens of figure painting, that i dont dare to step in. ;) But i think to leave the weapons on the sprue is not wrong. Please post some pics as the figures seem to look nice!
Cheers !
25. June at 07:36:19
Mark Norfolk Hi Holger. Been viewing your wall - some stunning builds - I aspire to do stuff like that. I particularly like your Stug III, and your stash pics made me chuckle a great deal. :-0 :) I will post pics: I'm really enjoying this forum - everyone's comments are constructive. It's got a nice atmosphere.
25. June at 13:22:25
Mark Norfolk And it's global, which I just love.
25. June at 13:22:54
Holger Kranich You are welcome, Mark!
Scalemates has a Special Spirit. Everyone around is very Kind and helpful. Once a year i meet with modelers i met here in real.
Thankks for the compliment for my StuG. ;)
25. June at 13:48:31
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June 24, 2019

Mark Norfolk added this book to his library.
19. June at 17:30:39 Share
Mark Norfolk An obviously old book - predates the surge of acrylic paint for example - but nonetheless got some very useful tips from it, even now in 2019: how paint is made up and hence importance of mixing; importance of not painting from the tin; many useful tips on masking, including producing own tape for curved sections, and plenty more. As a returning modeller after a 20 year gap was very useful indeed.
24. June at 13:48:54
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June 21, 2019

Mark Norfolk added this book to his wishlist
21. June at 22:24:36 Share
Mark Norfolk Would like to see what was what when I was born!
21. June at 22:25:20
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Mark Norfolk started this item
1:72 Hawker Typhoon IB (Airfix A02041)
Hawker Typhoon IB
Airfix 1:72
2013 | New tool
18. June at 12:08:52 Share
Mark Norfolk First kit in about 20 years! See how we get on... The difference internet access has made is incredible - learnt so much from tip video's about glueing, painting, decals, tools, ..
19. June at 08:08:30
Dave Flitton Great to see you back at work. This should be a good kit to stretch your skills
19. June at 14:47:10
Mark Norfolk :) That is some stash you're building Dave! What are you working on at the minute?
19. June at 17:39:11
Dave Flitton BB Texas, Attack PzKpfw 38(t) (scary kit), PzIV, etc etc
20. June at 17:07:34
Mark Norfolk V nice - just seen on your started page. Doh on me! Out of interest why 'scary kit'? Complex, detailed? I'm guessing you have a lot of model making experience.
20. June at 20:08:46
Dave Flitton Nothing fit, and you have to carve out the parts from lumps of plastic, nothing is square, and you have to thin out the fenders. Do not buy early Attack kits, they will drive you crazy
21. June at 14:33:09
Mark Norfolk Eeek! Useful tip. Good luck with it. Id' love to see your finished product.
21. June at 15:31:10
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Mark Norfolk
Was looking at the RFM (Ryefield Model) kits earlier - they look absolutely incredible. Has anyone any experience with them? Are they any good?
21. June at 06:59:31 Share


2019-06-21 06:59:31

2019-06-18 11:48:06





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