Tamiya: Tiger I RC - WIP
This is actually the 48202 Kit, which is the 35216 but modified to be remote controlled. I'm building this for a friend who got the kit as a gift a long time ago. Unfortunately the instructions are missing so I've had to figure out a lot of the construction on my own....
A friend of mine got this kit as a gift a long time ago. I said I would build it for him. However, for some reason there are no instructions and googling the web didn't turn up any either. I was able to find some pictures of a previous build and have been able to figure out a lot of the construction. I've not built a tank, except for when I was very young, so this will be interesting.
The last obstacle to completion was the idlers. Managed to figure out that I needed to replace one of the outer wheels with a spacer so that the modifies idlers can fit in. Phew. For a while I thought I was stumped.
Completed the base coat and started dry brushing the edges with nato black/nato brown. Not a great job. Wondering if I need to use retarder to get a better effect....
I'm basically following Andy's video: Youtube Video so blame him if it doesn't turn out great 🙂
You can get the instructions very easily : click on the picture representing the kit just above all the messages here, that's getting you to the kit's description page. There, under the box art segment, you'll find a button to download the instructions as a pdf.
Best of luck!
Thanks, Rene. However the kit I've linked to, #35216, is not the one I'm making. It is actually kit #48202, a special release back in 2000 that is a modified version of #35216 that is remote controlled. I was able to use the #35216 instructions to build the top part of the tank but the chassis is quite different in the RC version. You can see a review of the RC kit here: https://modelingmadness.com/review/misc/vehicles/germany/michaelstiger1.htm
I'll make a new database entry for this kit tomorrow. Maybe, eventually, someone will upload the instructions for it... 🙂
Just did a little detailing and added decals. Then clear coating before starting the whitewash treatment.
Seems it is turning pretty good
Thx, Spanjard. So far so good.
I've clear coated it with Alclad's Klear Kote Matt but it looks more satin than matt. I've purchased their Flat finish to see if that is better.
Next up going to spray AK Interactive's Worn Effects Fluid, aka hairspray, over the body followed by a whitewash. Will have to practice on a test piece first. First time doing this effect.
Hmmm, reading further it seems that for the hairstray effect you do generally want a satin clear coat. Though I guess it all depends on how much of an effect you want. The variables seem to be the clear coat finish and the thickness of the hairspray layer.
I'm going to do some tests on some scrap plastic I have to try to get a feel for it.
What a fun and exciting project Tom, I hope you can figure out how to make it work.
I finally got some Stynlrez primer to play with. Any tips you can share? Like what size airbrush needle do you use, and if you do thin it down, what with?
That looks fantastic Tom, great job !
Thanks, Bob. It's been fun. I'm enjoying the "non-glossy" painting so far. Definitely a change from the usual.
JD, I've managed to figure out everything. The track idlers were really tricky to work out but I think it's correct. As for Stynylrez, I'm a complete fan. it's amazing stuff and very forgiving. No tricks to using it really. No need to thin or anything. I use 20/25 PSI with my Iwata Revolution CR which has a 0.5 mm needle and has great coverage. I've definitely gotten better at maintaining my airbrushes over the last year and they really perform now. Still, even when I was struggling early on there was never a problem with using Stynylrez.
Stynylrez is not perfect. I definitely recommend prepping smooth surfaces with some 300 grit paper, particularly if you plan to be doing masking. If I am really concerned about the primer coat I will decant and use Tamiya's lacquer base Surface Primer, but if you are not comfortable with solvent based paints then you can't beat Stynylrez.
Oh, I forgot: make sure to really shake Stynylrez before using it. That's important. Also don't let it freeze. I've not had experience myself but have heard others have, and that the primer becomes unusable.
Thanks Tom, great info. I also use an Iwata with a 0.5 needle, so I should not have any problems. I've been searching for a water based sandable primer for some time now. And you're right about learning to maintain the airbrush, and keep it clean. It's definitely part of the learning curve.
So Pix #23 shows a test I did with using hairspray and AK Interactive's Worn Effects fluid to get a chipped/weathered effect.
Here's what I did in the test :
1. I decanted the hairspray so that I could more easily control the amount that gets applied via an airbrush.
2. The test piece was primed with black stynylrez and then coated with Alclad Klear Kote Matt.
3. The sections named "HS" are the Tresemme hairspray and the "AK"s are the AK fluid.
4. The numbers, 1, 2, and 3, are the number of light coats I applied to each section
5. For each panel I then wetted and scrubbed with a brush for the same amount of time and pressure.
You can see from the picture that the thicker the effect layer was the more easily the panel chipped.
The hairspray was much more effective than the AK fluid.
Here are some things I found that are not show in the images:
1. The AK Worn Effects Liquid did not lay down at all well on the matt clear coat. I guess it needs to be used on very flat paint as its surface tension just makes it bean like water. Maybe it's possible to add something to reduce the surface tension and get good coverage... The Tresemme laid down beautifully!
2. Don't lay down the final color coat too thickly. If the paint is too wet then it activates the hairspray layer and you get ugly cracking forming.... though if that's an effect you want then do lay it down thickly. However, to avoid cracking, build up the final coat in really thin layers till you get the coverage you need.
What I've learnt most about that this technique is that it is not as easy as many videos make it out to be. I'm also guessing that how long you let the hairspray and top layers dry probably effects how well the chipping works.
Have to say I'm somewhat apprehensive about applying the technique to the tank at this point....
Unfortunately the whitewash weathering did not turnout well. Ugh!
I might try to see if I can remove the paint and do it over again...
Wow! I used some windex to try to remove the paint and it works a charm. It doesn't interact with the underlying Alclad Klear Kote! So Happy.
And it's done! The weathering turned out okay seeing as it was my first real attempt at doing that. Assembled the internals and everything works. Will post a video of it in action tomorrow. It's very noisy and the controls are pretty crude.
observer almost put the armor to the test😉