bossy122 I have been looking more a mirror gold finish for racing exhausts and that last spoon on the right is very close. Is your chart telling me you sprayed the Tamiya paints over the Alclad? Am I reading that correctly?
16. January, 02:57
Chris Greathouse Yes, 1 base, 2 chrome, 3 aqua gloss, 4 then looks like a 1:2 ratio of X24 + X27 on top, I like to clear coat these just to protect it all, but some don't.
16. January, 03:18
Tom ... Ah I should have been more exact in the labeling. It's mainly X24 with a few drops of X27 and the in the last one I put in a few more drops of red. You'll need to experiment with the ratios. Also I found that overall effect depends on how much of the X24 you apply so make sure to layer thin coats till you get the result you like.
16. January, 03:31
Valters Orlovskis Oh, so many sweet memories during building this kit...
Good work for getting brass color. My attempt using AK Interactive Brass wasn't so succesfully, it comes out too dark because of black base.
16. January, 09:31
bughunter That is in principle the same what ICM has done with the "brass" parts of the first Ford-T kits. I was not able to de-metallize it, until I realized, that there was a clear yellow layer on chromed sprues. After removing the clear yellow the baking oven cleaning spray works.
Nice test - I would vote for brass for most left or second from right
16. January, 18:20
Tom ... hmmm, the alclad yellow came out dull. However, I should clear coat it and see if it gets more of a shine.
Cortex The brass figure was amazing, saved to me references folder : )
17. January, 05:47
Tom ... @bossy, sorry missed your question. I did both but putting tamiya acrylics over alclad was not a problem. Putting the alclad transparent yellow over the alclad chrome wasn't a problem either... however I did get both the base and chrome layers to fully cure first.
For my build I've gone for the spoon third from the right (clear yellow with a touch of clear red) and sealing it with the aqua clear gloss. I'll be posting pics of it later tomorrow.
#6: Did the brass pieces like I said above. The drawback with this method is making sure you get the look you want and it being consistent across all the pieces . The look of chrome and clear layers depends on how little or much you build them up, so getting it just right can be a bit of a challenge.
#7: It's my first time using Humbrol's liquid mask and it's brilliant. Used it to mask the interior of the spotlight so that it retained the chrome finish. Also used it to better mask the grill area of the radiator. Will definitely be using this mask more in the future.
#8: Really happy I bought the micro punch set. Got it mainly to do dial faces but it was perfect for doing the lamps.
17. January, 20:49
Chris Greathouse I may pump out cars like crazy, but man, the stuff you do is slow and with care and quality
17. January, 21:57
bughunter Exactly what I thought: care and quality
17. January, 23:06
Tom ... Aww shucks, guys. Too kind. I do try. However I've no illusions I've got a long way to go yet to build actual quality. [Looking at you, bughunter] Still, half the fun (misery) for me is trying to do a good job.
18. January, 00:35
Björn Svedberg Wonderful work so far! That brass looks excellent! I like your attention to detail and the nice build log.
Tom ... I noticed that the brake lever doesn't have much of a hole to glue into later, so I drilled one and cut a piece out of the bottom of the lever so that it could fit down into the new hole properly. The pedals also look like they might be a bit precarious to glue in...
Tom ... Yeah, they can. My only real complaint about those (except for breaking) is that they would get a bit sore on the nose bridge but otherwise they were perfect. I'm going to try out these: https://amazon.com/gp/produc..le_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 but I may well go back to the "spectacle" sort if I find them too cumbersome.
20. January, 03:33
Tom ... @bob, I might very well try them if the ones I have on order don't work out.
20. January, 03:34
Bob Hall I had to buy a second pair when my wife discovered how good the were and relieved me of my first pair, cheap yet effective and there at check out area at any Wal-Mart.
20. January, 03:46
Tom ... Body parts are painted and clear coated. Not happy with Tamiya's X7 (Red). It doesn't go down well and there is some weird pitting that happens. Same thing happened on the MG TC but much worse. In future going to look into some lacquer based paints now that I have my paint booth ventilation set up properly.
20. January, 06:43
Bob Hall Try the Testors Lacquer "Italian Red" stuff comes out great and is so easy !
Tom ... Managed to make a boo-boo. In my focus to dry fit the radiator and hood, I glued on the cab before mounting the engine. Oops. Had to pull the cab off. Wasn't a total disaster but not good either.
21. January, 01:16
Tom ... Tried out a new tool for placing flat pieces. Worked like a charm. Very happy with it. My only worry is that it feels like it'll get damaged really easily so will have to baby it.
Tom ... I have to say how much I like using a wet palette. Makes life much easier and saves a lot of paint. I can't imagine not using one now. I also enjoy hand painting with Vallejo paints. Much easier to work with than Tamiya, even with a retarder.
26. January, 02:27
Bob Hall That does look like a handy little tool ! Neat !
Tom ... Finally got everything painted except for the brass plates on the wheel hubs and some kind of treatment for the tires but at least I can start assembling.
26. January, 05:09
Bozzer Tom, regarding the red paint. Revell and Humbrol have nice Red Enamels. I'll get you the number for the colour I'm using, when I get back in the cave. They go down great and thin really well. I used Humbrol enamel thinner with both, but you can use ordinary white spirit.
pic#16: Managed to get the brass hub plates done. Maskol to the rescue again. A bit of a convoluted process but came out fine. Not perfect for sure but good enough. If I was to do it again I'd do the brass first and then the main coat to see if that got a better result.
Started assembling the chassis and engine space. I have to say it's a very fiddly kit to put together. Was hoping to be much further along today.
@JD: It's rubber based. I'm finding it very useful indeed.
27. January, 02:52
Tom ... Got the underneath finished. Very fiddly indeed. Not looking forward to fitting the headlights at all.
I was planning to build this kit multiple times as I like the idea of building the same model over and over and applying what I've learnt to each new iteration. The goal would be to make each build better than the last and add new levels of detail and/or technique each time, like weathering say. I feel like that might be an effective way to improve. However I'm having second thoughts on using this kit for that purpose. Maybe the Isetta would be a better choice...hmmmm. Anyone else done something similar?
JD I say just keep building different kits...Each one should be better then the last one as you gain more experience. I don't like to have doubles of things, (I won't build ANOTHER Millennium Falcon!) You have great skills Tom, so naturally you'll improve over time. (Good advice for me, too)
28. January, 01:50
Bill Newcomer Tom, Simply build subjects you like. Your skills will grow as you progress naturally.
28. January, 02:17
Tom ... No worries, I'll keep doing other kits. I certainly have enough. I think having a parallel repeat build will help me avoid getting so uptight about messing the build itself. I get very nervous about trying anything new. This way I'll have one good initial build put away (popped the cherry so to speak) and then the rest are revisits with no real pressure. That's the theory anyway.
28. January, 02:38
JD I accidentally deleted an album I called "Learning on toys from the dollar store" where I try new things like salt chipping, (which went horribly wrong!) on toys, and I was glad it wasn't on a nice kit! So that's been my approach to learning, doing tests and experiments on stuff ya don't care about before attempting the model...
Tom ... Putting the figures together was fun but required a lot of filling, scraping and sanding. More work than I would have guessed. There is a surprising amount of detail in the molds. Going to be interesting to paint.
1. February, 23:01
Bob Hall Cool ! A Box full of challenges I see ! Sweet Job my friend !
1. February, 23:18
Tom ... Thx, Bob. It has been a challenging build but educational too.
Tom ... Thank you guys. Bughunter, nice try but I've seen your Model T's and I got a ways to go yet. This year I plan to build the Light Delivery Truck and I'll be using yours and Roland's builds as my guide.
Tom ... Thank you all. Overall it turned out nicely and am very happy with the results. Of course there's stuff I wish was better but that's always going to be the case. Planning on doing this one again in the future but with the focus on subtle weathering all over to give it a little more realism/character. Or maybe just apply the weathering effects to this one directly? We'll see.
Going to get in a quicky build before the Aussie Group Build. Stay tuned for alien invasion....
Tim Heimer Yea, but he wants to get another firetruck to Australia!
10. February, 01:22
Bryn Crandell That really looks amazing. The stache is a staple amoungst firefighters. Haven't shaved my off since basic training for the USAF and that was 33 years ago. AS soon as I graduated, I started growing it back.
10. February, 02:23
Peter Hardy It'll need floaties Tim. We're all flooded out now!
10. February, 02:36
Donald Dickson II Tom, Bryn can attest to this. There is very little weathering to be found on a fire truck. Even the older ones are clean. Things such as hoses, seats, tools and tires will be where you would do any kind of weathering. Paint, chrome and the like dont tend to be faded or dirty or badly scratched. Firemen are kind of anal about our fire trucks being clean.
wilky Yeah, to anyone else that doesn't make sense but that's the funny thing about drizzle.
If you're stuck in it you'll get soaked but the ground will still be relatively dry.
I'm a bit of a mongrel really.
Born in Queensland, lived in Adelaide for twenty five years and Victoria for twenty four in two stints
10. February, 09:25
Peter Hardy There is a road north you know Wilky!
Tom, what's next mate??? You still in the groupbuild? Looking at the detail work on the model T I hope so!
Bob Hall I was Just watching those old Ed Wood Movies the other day ! This is gonna be good ! *pulls up seat with popcorn* I'm in !
10. February, 21:02
Tom ... yeah, it's so strange that these kits were actually used in the movie. The box says "a bizarrely authentic scale mode... All 61 rivets are accounted for and placed in exactly the same spots..."