Lovely job for 1/100 scale!
May 19, 2021
I'm a fan of your litle dios and this is no exception 👍
Thank you, Łukasz. I will keep endeavour 🙂
Two little updates were made today: spoked wheels and photoetched front shield (last photo)
Very nice vignette! The Russians seem to wear American helmets ..... (lend and lease?) 👍
No, this is Ssh-40 (steel helmet mod.1940). Overall shape is close to american one, but american M-1 was adopted later (in 1941).
May 17, 2021
Careful and delicate build! And interesting story ....👍
Thank you :}
I remember following a build of this kit a couple of years ago, so I know what a challenging kit it is. The result you've achieved is miraculous!
I'm building this kit right now. I see you made a great deal of research and scratch building in this project. Looks amazing. I'd like to ask, if you know, about the engine's cowling: was it originally metal or wood?
I enjoyed this greatly also. Your skill/ability is obvious to someone like me. Amazing album 👍
Awesome! Another one that is waiting in my stash till I become confident with my skills...
Dear Krzystof, the engine covling was originally made of aluminium
Thank you, guys!
very nice 👍
Thank a lot
May 12, 2021
May 6, 2021
May 5, 2021
April 29, 2021
April 28, 2021
The very simple model "for one night"
April 26, 2021
April 25, 2021
April 13, 2021
April 12, 2021
March 1, 2021
January 15, 2021
Very nice work 👍
January 11, 2021
November 13, 2020
The common rule for me is: I do not make planes in scale 1:48, because I have no place to store them. But there is one exception.
Once upon a time, in 1994, I bought a model of Gloster Gladiator Mk II by Lindberg from a thrift store. Sure, in a scale of 1: 48. To be honest, I made mistake, because I looked at the surprisingly low price, and not saw the scale.
Well, once purchased, how could I not try to assemble it?
What can I say about this kit? It's a firewood. The interior is extremely concise (to put it politely). The engine is simulated very approximately. The wheels are much narrower than they should be... The copy level is half a century old, nothing unexpected.
Now I decided to "renovate" it.
What was changed:
- wheels of the chassis (resin + modified plastic caps from the model)
- cockpit interior (completely replaced, resin + photo-etching + self-made)
- cockpit itself (drawn from transparent plastic)
- engine + hood + exhaust pipes (resin)
- added navigation lights
- added airbrakes pads on the lower surfaces of the wings (I had to suffer, because the halves of the wings could not be divided)
- underwing machine guns together with gondolas
- haulers-tail wheel with a rack to replace the lost one.
The wheel turned out to be "controlled", which is noticeable in several pictures.
I do not claim the most accurate model, but it turned to be more likely to original photos.
The model is painted according to the scheme of the Swedish air force until 1940.
November 12, 2020
Very nice work - particularly on the cockpit.
Nice Dr.1, Andrey! Your interior looks very impressive. I am building the old Revell and decided the amount of effort vs. what will be seen wasn't worth it...
Thank you, guys. In fact, I finished it very quickly - ProfiPack has all you need to make the precision model.
The only trouble are the triplane racks. It needs some work.
Splendid and inspiring!
November 11, 2020
Exactly one day before I was mowed down by a malicious virus, I finished Lothar von Richthofen's Fokker Dreidekker by Eduard 🙂 The month that followed then was a strange one - it had been a long time since I'd been in a hospital last before...
Now I came back.
The model itself is excellent like any new model by Eduard. There is no any reclamations considering accuracy, but I have one for connectivity, oddly enough: the Triplane box. And this is revealed, which is quite predictable, already at the final Assembly. I had to build up two Central ones in place.
September 13, 2020
August 23, 2020
August 22, 2020
June 26, 2020
Erik De Smet It has no alternatives at all
Thanks anyway 🙂
Rare bird ! Nice result !
I so loved those Frog kits.
How did you do your rigging? Looks like you made rings and threaded through tubing.
The technique is very simple.
First, I made an eyelet from thin copper wire (0,05 mm or so). I thirled it around 0,2mm drill then several turnes twist wire to make a shank.
Second I drill a blind hole (0,2mm diameter) in the attachment point.
Third I place the shank in the hole and fix it with superglue.
The only thing I have to do after it is to fit the wire (elastic thread) in eyelet and fix with glue.
June 24, 2020